Wine Enthusiast Magazine Barossa Big Dogs - Torbreck

Barossa continued...___________________________or first class. Qantas boasts a terrific in-flightentertainment package, whie Air NewZealand’sBusiness Premier offers seats that go fully flat ifsleeping is a bigger priority.From Adelaide, Barossa is a scant hour’s drivenorth of the South Australian capital. It’s so closethat many tourists stay in the city and take day tripsto the cellar doors, as Australian tasting rooms arecalled. Bur for the full wine-country experience,stay at Peppers The Louise, a luxury 15-suite resortin Marananga complete with an award-winningrestaurant, Appellation. The Novotel Barossa ValleyResort boasts spa services, a fitness room andan outdoor pool. Right across the driveway is theTanunda Pines Golf Club. A small shop off thelobby features Barossa wines and foods, with cocktail-hourtastings hosted by local vintners. Otheraccommodations include scores of bed and breakfasts;you can find a sampling at www.barossa.comMany Barossa cellar doors offer short, inexpensivemenus as well as free wine tasting, so there’sno need to take a midday break from sniffing,swirling and spitting. You’ll want to save room fordinner anyway, whether at Appellation or either ofthe two spots I enjoyed, Vintners Bar & Grill adn1918 Bistro & Grill. Housed in a stylishly renovatedvuilding near Angaston, Vintners chef andco-owner Peter Clarke turns out delectable Australianfare, using such local ingredients as Linke’sbacon and Lyndock smoked salmon. At 1918, thesmall dining rooms are cozy, set in an old buildingon Tanunda’s main drag. But the food is fresh,seasonal and local, prepared with aplomb by chefChristian Fletcher, who borrows extensively fromparts of Asia. Flourishes might include prune andalmond couscous, chili-tomato cream sauce or coconuttermpura garfish. Both offer good selectionsof local wines at reasonable markups.95 Glaetzer 2006 Amon Ra ShirazShows a slightly lifted, peppery character on the nose,but also plenty of toasty oak and bold fruit. Loads ofblackberries, blueberries and chocolate cascade overthe palate, accented with enough spice and warmth toleave a fleeting impression of fruitcake. Lush and longon the finish. Drink now-2-2- or beyond.95 Glaetzer 2005 Amon-Ra ShirazFrom a single vineyard in the Ebenezer region, this is simplystupendous stuff. It is a bit Port-like in its rich layers ofblackberry fruit, but it also displays reat freshness and drive,giving it a juicy, fresh fruit character that’s accented evn moreby dustings of pepper and dried s pices. A beautiful marriageof drinkability and ageability; drink now-2020.95 Kaesler 2005 Old Bastard ShirazFrom vines planted in 1893, this wine combines spicy complexitywith size and ultraconcentrated fruit. It tips the scalesat 16% alcohol, but wearts it wiell, hiding it under hints oflicorice and subtle wood spice and layers of blackberry andblueberry furit. Yes, it’s big, but it’s not inelegant, finishignlush, long and spicy. Terrific stuff that should drink well from2010-2020.93 Barossa Old Vine Company 2004 ShirazA blend of several extremely old vineyard parcels, this features,deep, intoxicating blackberry flavors offset by hints oftoast and dried spices. Thick and rich, it rolls easily acrossthe palate, yet remains surprisingly balanced and structured,not heavy or soft. Drink 2010-2020, possibly longer.93 Glen Eldon 2004 Dry Bore ShirazA terrific value, this boasts knockout aromas of blueberry pieand cracked pepper, followed by a velvety, rich texture andflavors that pick up hints of additional spice, grilled meat andblack olive. It juxtaposes ripeness, texture and complexityto make a complete package worth cellaring until 2010 anddrinking over the following 10 years. Editor’s Choice.93 Kaesler 2004 The Bogan ShirazBig and bold, with an unmistakable hit of American oak- vanilla and dill - on the noes, but also huge levels of fruitconcentration. Creamy, thick and mouthfilling, loaded withblackberries and spice. The long, robust finish suggests acertain amount of ageability, although this is certainly enjoyablenow. Drink now-2015.93 Kaesler 2005 The Bogan ShirazBig and bold, like the excellent ‘04 version. If anything, it emphasizesthe fruit even a bit more, with less spicy complexity,but it’s a black hole of plum and blackberry fruit that explodesin the mouth, staining the palate with fruity intensity. The alcohollevel must be elevated, but it’s well concealed by suppletannins. Drink now-2015.