Wine Enthusiast Magazine Barossa Big Dogs - Torbreck

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Barossa continued...___________________________or first class. Qantas boasts a terrific in-flightentertainment package, whie Air NewZealand’sBusiness Premier offers seats that go fully flat ifsleeping is a bigger priority.From Adelaide, Barossa is a scant hour’s drivenorth of the South Australian capital. It’s so closethat many tourists stay in the city and take day tripsto the cellar doors, as Australian tasting rooms arecalled. Bur for the full wine-country experience,stay at Peppers The Louise, a luxury 15-suite resortin Marananga complete with an award-winningrestaurant, Appellation. The Novotel Barossa ValleyResort boasts spa services, a fitness room andan outdoor pool. Right across the driveway is theTanunda Pines Golf Club. A small shop off thelobby features Barossa wines and foods, with cocktail-hourtastings hosted by local vintners. Otheraccommodations include scores of bed and breakfasts;you can find a sampling at www.barossa.comMany Barossa cellar doors offer short, inexpensivemenus as well as free wine tasting, so there’sno need to take a midday break from sniffing,swirling and spitting. You’ll want to save room fordinner anyway, whether at Appellation or either ofthe two spots I enjoyed, Vintners Bar & Grill adn1918 Bistro & Grill. Housed in a stylishly renovatedvuilding near Angaston, Vintners chef andco-owner Peter Clarke turns out delectable Australianfare, using such local ingredients as Linke’sbacon and Lyndock smoked salmon. At 1918, thesmall dining rooms are cozy, set in an old buildingon Tanunda’s main drag. But the food is fresh,seasonal and local, prepared with aplomb by chefChristian Fletcher, who borrows extensively fromparts of Asia. Flourishes might include prune andalmond couscous, chili-tomato cream sauce or coconuttermpura garfish. Both offer good selectionsof local wines at reasonable markups.95 Glaetzer 2006 Amon Ra ShirazShows a slightly lifted, peppery character on the nose,but also plenty of toasty oak and bold fruit. Loads ofblackberries, blueberries and chocolate cascade overthe palate, accented with enough spice and warmth toleave a fleeting impression of fruitcake. Lush and longon the finish. Drink now-2-2- or beyond.95 Glaetzer 2005 Amon-Ra ShirazFrom a single vineyard in the Ebenezer region, this is simplystupendous stuff. It is a bit Port-like in its rich layers ofblackberry fruit, but it also displays reat freshness and drive,giving it a juicy, fresh fruit character that’s accented evn moreby dustings of pepper and dried s pices. A beautiful marriageof drinkability and ageability; drink now-2020.95 Kaesler 2005 Old Bastard ShirazFrom vines planted in 1893, this wine combines spicy complexitywith size and ultraconcentrated fruit. It tips the scalesat 16% alcohol, but wearts it wiell, hiding it under hints oflicorice and subtle wood spice and layers of blackberry andblueberry furit. Yes, it’s big, but it’s not inelegant, finishignlush, long and spicy. Terrific stuff that should drink well from2010-2020.93 Barossa Old Vine Company 2004 ShirazA blend of several extremely old vineyard parcels, this features,deep, intoxicating blackberry flavors offset by hints oftoast and dried spices. Thick and rich, it rolls easily acrossthe palate, yet remains surprisingly balanced and structured,not heavy or soft. Drink 2010-2020, possibly longer.93 Glen Eldon 2004 Dry Bore ShirazA terrific value, this boasts knockout aromas of blueberry pieand cracked pepper, followed by a velvety, rich texture andflavors that pick up hints of additional spice, grilled meat andblack olive. It juxtaposes ripeness, texture and complexityto make a complete package worth cellaring until 2010 anddrinking over the following 10 years. Editor’s Choice.93 Kaesler 2004 The Bogan ShirazBig and bold, with an unmistakable hit of American oak- vanilla and dill - on the noes, but also huge levels of fruitconcentration. Creamy, thick and mouthfilling, loaded withblackberries and spice. The long, robust finish suggests acertain amount of ageability, although this is certainly enjoyablenow. Drink now-2015.93 Kaesler 2005 The Bogan ShirazBig and bold, like the excellent ‘04 version. If anything, it emphasizesthe fruit even a bit more, with less spicy complexity,but it’s a black hole of plum and blackberry fruit that explodesin the mouth, staining the palate with fruity intensity. The alcohollevel must be elevated, but it’s well concealed by suppletannins. Drink now-2015.
93 Massena 2005 The Eleventh Hour ShirazLush and creamy-textured, but not without structure.Although its blackberry and vanilla flavors are immediatelyapproachable, this is worth decanting or aging severalyears, as it develops additional complexity over time, offeringup hints of pepper, cinnamon and briary spice. Mouthwateringand long on the finish; drink now-2020.92 Charles Cimicky 2004 The Autograph ShirazGorgeously expressive, with mixed berry fruit that runs thegamut from mulberries to blueberries and blackberries, butalso hints of coffee, black olive and a big whack of vanillascentedoak. Full-bodied, lush and creamy, with a velvetyfinish, this should drink well now and over the next 10 yearsor more.92 Kaesler 2005 Old Vine ShirazThis comes out of the blocks at full spead, deliviering ahuge hit of licorice, blackberry and plum on the nose, thenfollows that up with dep mouthfilling flavors. Yet it’s surprisinglyelegant and silky on the extended finish. Lovely;drink now-2015.90 Charles Cimicky 2005 The Autograph ShirazWith its bright acidity, Cimicky’s 2005 Autograph stands outa bit from the pack of Barossa Shiraz. Blueberry-blackberryfruit and peppery spice is underlined by vibrant acids,which giv this wine a more reigned-in feel than many of itscounterparts. Despite supple tannins, it comes across as firm on the finish, where it picks up hints of caramel ormaple syrup.90 Langmeil 2006 Hangin’ Snakes Shiraz-ViognierDespite containing only 5% Viognier, this smells a bit floraland apricot-like, aand some may take it to task for that,but it does serve to distinguish this silky, easy-drinkingwine from Langmeil’s Valley Floor Shiraz. It does have asensational, glycerol-laden texture, and finishes with lingeringspice notes, so there’s more to it than stone fruit andflowers. Drink now-2010.88 Langmeil Blacksmith Cabernet SauvignonWonderfully varietal Cab Sauvignon from a region that cansometimes lose some of the variety’s characteristic herbalnotes. Mint and dried herbs on the nose give way to classiccassis fruit. It’s nicely rounded yet still firm enough instructure, picking up subtle vanilla shadings on the finish.92 Kaesler 2005 Avignon GSMA blend of approximately 40% each Grenache and Shirazwith 20% Mataro, Kaesler’s 2005 Avignon offers upexplosive notes of licorice and plum, hints of lighter stonefruits, like peach or apricot, then finishes with blackberries,cola and vanilla. Lush and smooth, an opulent mouthful fornear-term consumption.90 Glaetzer 2006 Wallace Shiraz-GrenacheSweetly fragrant, with hints of whte pepper and stone fruit thatveer toward cherries and spice on the palate. The silky textureis a treat, with just enough tart acidity on the finish for balance.89 Charles Cimicky 2005 Trumps Grenache-ShirazA blend of 65% Grenache and 35% Shiraz, this is a lush,easy-to-drink wine meant for early consumption. The blendbrings stone fruit and cherries, underscored by spice cakeand chocolate, with hints of epresso and cola on the finish.94 Glaetzer 2005 Godolphin Shiraz-CabernetA blend of 80% Shiraz and 20% Cabernet, this rich, almostPort-like wine also shows a slight herbal note - enoughto give it some lift and complexity. It’s inky black in color,imbued with layers of dark fruit so deep they threaten to suckyou in before being lightened ever so slightly by hints of vanillaand spice. Long and lush on the finish. Drink now-2015.94 Glaetzer 2006 Anaperenna Shiraz-CabernetA blend of 75% Shiraz and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon,this is the rechristened Godolphin, renamed because of atrademark conflict. Mint and tobacco notes frame the lushchodolaty layers of dark fruit - mainly cassis. Long andwonderfully supple on th finish. Drink now-2020.90 Haan 2004 WilhelmusThe Five classic Bordeaux varieties find new expression inthis Barossan blend. It’s cherry-scented and cheerful, withhints of raspberry and vanilla to keep it interesting. Withits creamy, supple tannins and mouthwatering finish, thisseems likely to be best now through 2012.93 Massena The Howling Dog Petite SirahThis could easily stand alongside the best Petite Sirahsfrom California. It’s perfumed and floral on the nose, thenadds palate-staining blueberries and hints of cedar, licoriceand chocolate. The silky tannins on the finish are firmenough to suggest cellaring through 2010, and optimumdrinking through 2020, possibly longer. Editor’s Choice.

Wine Enthusiast Magazine Barossa Big Dogs - Torbreck

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