Old school New England 92 - Scanorama

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SCANORAMA 

� 

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Wine tasting on Etna • Off-piste in Zermatt • Pizza in LA • Car spotting in Munich • Cold cuts in Stockholm 

Old school 

New England 92

Emma Watson

The new feminine fragrance

SCANORAMA 

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TACTILE TECHNOLOGY 

Touch the screen to get the ultimate multisports 

watch experience with 11 functions including compass, 

tide, chronograph split and lap. 

IN TOUCH WITH YOUR TIME 

compass lap 

PERFORMANCE 

AT YOUR FINGERTIPS 

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Experience more at www.t-touch.com

An airline for all seasons 

SAS IS SCANDINAVIA’S AIRLINE. For us, it has always been important 

to link Sweden, Denmark and Norway and make sure that 

Scandinavia is well connected to the rest of Europe and the 

world beyond. 

SAS flies to Europe’s main airports, close to the bright lights 

of the big cities – and we take frostbitten northerners to Europe’s 

most popular vacation destinations. Whatever your reasons for 

traveling, be it a well-earned break or an important business 

trip, we’ll get you there on time. 

At Christmas and New Year, those of us who don’t dream of a 

small winter cabin set their sights on going south. We recently 

presented our summer destinations for 2012, and you can already 

snap up some great value tickets on Flysas.com. Starting 

next year, we are also introducing 21 new routes to southern 

and eastern Europe. Antalya, Dubrovnik, Palma and Barcelona 

are just some of the Mediterranean gems you can reach quickly 

and comfortably with SAS. 

We don’t just fly you to your weekend break or week’s vacation. 

Our pilots and crew also have tips about what not to miss on 

your days off. Our SAS Crew Guide app for iPhones and Android 

phones is being updated all the time with new guides. New York 

was the first, then came Chicago, and now London. Perhaps you 

can test one on your next trip. 

Start thinking about warm summer days by all means, but don’t 

forget to enjoy all the wonderful things that the Scandinavian 

winter has to offer. 

Rickard Gustafson 

President and CEO, SAS Group

� SCANORAMA 

no. 12/01 

PHOTO: PETRUS OLSSON 

10 THE SAS NEWSROOM 

Wi-Fi in the sky, SAS Credits ups its game, 

24-7 hotline for SAS’s most frequent fliers, 

and more hot spots for sunseekers 

14 THE SAS FLIGHT CLASS 

The Operation Control Centers that make 

sure SAS’s traffic keeps flowing 

16 SAS MOMENTS 

13.45 hours: Pushback for flight SK730 to 

Moscow at Stockholm-Arlanda Airport 

20 EDITOR’S LETTER 

23 THE HIT LIST 

From the giddy heights of Zermatt to 

mind-boggling inventions in Barcelona 

38 THE TRAVELER 

Nadir ‘RedOne’ Khayat, Lady Gaga’s hitmaker, 

on pogoing around on his disco shtick 

42 DAS AUTOS 

Mercedes, Porsche, BMW – the museums you 

just have to pull over for, even on the autobahn 

61 THE WEEKENDER 

London is a funny old town, and it has the 

comedy clubs to prove it 

68 GRAPES OF WRATH 

The Mount Etna winegrowers plotting a 

volcanic eruption of their own 

92 PERFECT HARVARD 

Hanging with the Ivy Leaguers – the ultimate 

crash course in America’s oldest university 

100 WISH YOU WERE HERE 

Waffle hunting in Vemdalen, northern Sweden 

129 AIRPORTS, MAPS, 

FLEET & EUROBONUS 

SCANORAMA DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012 

Harvard Book Store, 

Harvard Square, Cambridge, 

Masssachusetts, photographed 

by Alexander Berg 

9

HEAD 

The SAS Newsroom 

SAS gets wired, makes sports clubs an offer they can’t refuse, 

and provides vacationers with even more sun 

Rewriting the future 

in the Ivory Coast 

CHARITY All children should have the right 

to go to school and feel safe while they 

are there – but in places such as the Ivory 

Coast, a country that since 2002 has been 

ravaged by civil war, that’s more often the 

exception than the rule. 

Save the Children’s education project 

is battling for children’s right to a decent 

elementary school education in countries 

aff ected by confl ict. In the Ivory Coast, 

this is especially important for girls, who 

are often prevented from going to school. 

Mariana, whose family recently left the 

Abobo district of Abidjan for Man in the 

west of the country, is among the schoolchildren 

that Save the Children has helped. 

“I’m a good student. My favorite subject is 

math and I love to read,” she says. 

Mariana, along with some 800,000 other 

Ivorian children, missed up to six months 

of school in the violence that followed the 

controversial presidential elections in 2010 

when over a million people were forced 

to fl ee their homes. Thanks to Save the 

Children the schools are back on track, and 

more girls are being given the opportunity 

to study. 

“The teachers here have the time and 

resources to help everyone,” Mariana says. 

“School is important, it’s the key to the 

future. Girls have to be able to go to school. 

Parents who make their daughters work 

instead are not good parents.” 

Save the Children’s goal in the Ivory Coast 

(in those regions where Save the Children is 

present) is that all children – both girls and 

boys – receive an elementary school education 

in a safe environment by 2016. 

Since February, 11,683 students have 

received school kits with books, pens, 

crayons and information about children’s 

rights; 280 teachers have received school 

supplies such as compasses, rulers and 

notepads; 23 schools have been equipped 

with desks, tables and chairs; 111 teachers 

and educational advisors have been trained 

in children’s right to safety, protection and 

alternatives to corporal punishment. 

During 2010, SAS contributed $517,000 

to Save the Children’s education project in 

the Ivory Coast. Five Swedish kronor from 

every child ticket sold by SAS go to Save 

the Children. 

Read more at www.savethechildren.org. 

Wi-Fi in the sky 

TECHNOLOGY Soon you won’t have to switch your 

smartphone to Flight Mode onboard SAS fl ights. SAS 

will be among the world’s fi rst airlines to let passengers 

use their phones to make calls and send and receive 

text messages while airborne. SAS is preparing to 

launch Wi-Fi and mobile telephony on its short-haul 

fl eet after signing an agreement with Panasonic Avionics 

Corporation. Both laptop and smartphone users 

will be able to tap into the broadband service. By next 

summer, 10 short-haul aircraft will be equipped with 

Panasonic’s eXConnect and eXPhone system. 

10 DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012 SCANORAMA 

PHOTO: LAURENT DUVILLIER

MEET OUR WOMAN IN 

HONG KONG 

The middle class in China is growing, and is becoming 

increasingly prosperous as well. One effect of this 

development is that the Chi- 

nese consumers put more and 

more meat produce in their 

shopping baskets. 

“As an example,” says 

Louisa Lo, “the market for 

sausages is growing by some 

14% per year, and the demand 

for quality sausages is growing 

even faster.” 

Based on her advice, Danske 

Invest chose to invest in a local sausage skin manufacturer 

last autumn. 

Company meetings in Cantonese 

In the home region of the sausage skin company, the 

population speaks Cantonese instead of China’s 

official language, Mandarin. 

“It was an advantage for the equity team that we 

Knowledge at work 

Louisa Lo sees it all, when Chinese 

skyscrapers sprout and the shops 

line their shelves with new and 

different products. She applies this 

experience daily as part of the equity 

team advising Danske Invest on 

investments in China. 

spoke the local language. When we communicate with 

senior executives in their native tongue, we reduce the 

risk of misunderstandings and 

the answers we get are more 

detailed.” 

Specialist knowledge 

strengthens market position 

Through the meetings Louisa Lo 

gained insight into some of the 

processes and patents developed 

by the company. 

“Domestic competitors 

cannot easily copy the quality delivered by the company, 

and foreign competitors lose out on price.” 

With that in mind, she estimates that the company 

will benefit from a market, likely to see significant 

growth over the next couple of years. 

Meet Louisa Lo and other investment experts at 

www.danskeinvest.com.

HEAD THE SAS NEWSROOM 

SAS SPORT Travel can be a big deal for sports 

clubs – large groups, a heap of baggage and 

last-minute changes due to dropouts or injuries. 

SAS is making it easier and cheaper for 

touring Scandinavian sports clubs. “We want 

to be the airline of choice for athletes,” says 

Magnus Grahn, Director Leisure, Strategies and 

Concepts at SAS. Sports clubs that become 

members of SAS Credits, SAS’s corporate 

travel program, are entitled to two pieces of 

checked baggage, or one piece of baggage 

plus sports equipment; flexible tickets with the 

option to change dates and passengers free of 

INSURANCE Customers in Denmark and Norway 

now have the option of buying annual travel 

insurance with SAS. 

SAS already offers Danish, Swedish and Norwegian 

passengers a comprehensive range of 

one-off insurance policies such as Travel Insurance 

Extra (an add-on to your home insurance), 

Total (if you’re otherwise uninsured) and Business 

(for work-related travel) through global 

travel insurance specialists Europ Assistance. 

Find your place 

in the sun 

NEW FLIGHTS With 17 new routes to choose 

from this spring and summer, there’s no 

reason to put your vacation plans on ice. 

You can fly direct with SAS to Barcelona from 

Stockholm, Stavanger and Bergen; Dubrovnik 

from Stockholm and Copenhagen; and Split 

from Copenhagen, Bergen and Stavanger. 

Book now at Flysas.com. 

SUMMER ROUTES 

SAS shows team spirit 

Copenhagen 

Malaga (March 31), Split (May 12) and 

Dubrovnik (July 4) 

Stockholm 

Barcelona (March 25), Dubrovnik (March 25), 

Malaga (March 31), Keflavik (June 22) and 

Alicante (June 26) 

Oslo 

Antalya (July 1) and Faro (June 26) 

Stavanger 

Nice (June 24), Split (June 25), Barcelona (June 28) 

and Palma (June 29) 

Bergen 

Malaga (June 23), Split (June 25), 

Barcelona (June 28) and Palma (June 29) 

charge; discounts and SAS Credits on trips to 

and from Scandinavian (including domestic 

routes) and European sporting events. With 

SAS Credits, the club earns one credit for 

every crown spent that can then be exchanged 

for new tickets. Furthermore, a money-back 

guarantee is valid up to seven days before 

departure, or even on the day of departure 

if an event is cancelled. From January 1, SAS 

will donate one crown for every SAS Credit to 

its sports fund, which will support clubs and 

associations around Scandinavia. Sign up now 

at Sas.se/sport, Sas.dk/sport or Sas.no/sport. 

Peace of mind 365 days a year 

They can also take out cancellation cover within 

24 hours of booking their ticket. 

Policyholders are eligible for compensation 

– without deductibles – if their trip is cut short 

or delayed through illness, injury or unforeseen 

circumstances. 

Annual travel insurance starts at 799 kroner 

per person in Denmark or 1,350 kroner per 

family in Norway. 

For details see Sas.dk, Sas.no or Sas.se. 

NEWS IN BRIEF 

Shop with your 

points onboard 

SHOP You can now use your Euro- 

Bonus points in the CloudShop on 

SAS regular flights. You can use 

your points to buy food, drinks and 

gifts. Read more in the Cloudshop 

catalogue in the seat pocket in 

front of you. 

More points 

up for grabs 

EARN POINTS EuroBonus members 

who book a package deal with SAS 

get 500 EuroBonus points on top 

of the points they make on their 

flights. Book your flights with a 

hotel or rental car at Sas.se, Sas.dk 

or Sas.no. 

See more 

of Norway 

NEW FLIGHTS Widerøe has launched 

two routes between Denmark and 

Norway: Copenhagen-Haugesund 

(85 minutes) and Copenhagen- 

Kristiansand (65 minutes). The airline 

already flies to Sandefjord from 

Copenhagen. There are six weekly 

flights to and from Haugesund and 

21 weekly departures to and from 

Kristiansand. 

24-7 service for 

Gold members 

SERVICE EuroBonus’s most frequent 

fliers can now call on SAS anytime 

of the day or night for assistance 

with bookings, cancellations, award 

tickets, and more. 

All Gold cardholders have to do to 

access the around-the-clock service 

is key in their membership number 

when ringing their SAS Customer 

Contact Center. 

Gold members in SAS’s frequentflier 

program qualify for a range 

of benefits, including priority baggage 

handling, which means your 

bags always come first, 20kg extra 

checked baggage, lounge access, 

dedicated check-in, and more. 

Join EuroBonus on Flysas.com. 


TEXT: LISA ROSMAN PHOTO: BRUNO EHRS

HEAD THE SAS FLIGHT CLASS 

SAS’s very own traffi c controllers 

SAS’s Operation Control Centers in Norway, Denmark and Sweden keep a close 

eye on all of SAS’s fl ights to make sure everything goes according to plan. If a 

problem arises, it’s their job to make sure it’s taken care of. 

Safety fi rst 

Safety, punctuality and service come fi rst 

at the OCC, which makes sure any potential 

problems – from technical issues to 

bad weather or volcanic ash – are resolved 

quickly and smoothly. There are three SAS 

Operation Control Centers, one for each 

Scandinavian hub, CPH, ARN and OSL. 

All in a week’s work 

Once Network Planning has set the traffi c 

schedule for the coming month, it is handed 

over to the OCC whose short-term planning 

group checks that it’s practical before passing 

it onto the operations unit (OP) seven 

days before departure. The OP locks in the 

schedule and makes sure it follows rules 

and regulations. 

Crunch time 

Around 7pm the OP sends out the aircraft 

disposition message for both internal 

(ground handling and technical operations) 

and external use. This tells airports, for 

example, which plane will be fl ying which 

route the following day. 

Problem solving 

The OCC makes sure planes arrive at the 

gate on time. The OCC also works with 

Crew Control, which makes sure fl ights are 

properly staff ed. Resource Aircraft Control 

(RAC) keeps an eye on the next day’s 

fl ights and seven days ahead. If there are 

technical issues that can’t be solved ahead 

of departure, or if a larger airplane is needed 

for an overbooked fl ight, it’s the RAC’s 

responsibility. 

Traffi c handling 

The duty production manager (DPM) is 

in charge of all SAS air traffi c. He decides 

when to delay or cancel fl ights. The DPM 

in Copenhagen is also the initiating offi - 

cer (fi rst point of contact) in the event of 

an accident or incident. The DPM works 

alongside two fl ight controllers who monitor 

traffi c and handle daily problems. 

The Operation Control Centers are 

one of the reasons why SAS is the 

world’s most punctual airline 

Opus 4 

The OCC keeps track of all fl ights through 

the computer system Opus 4, where they 

are displayed on a horizontal bar chart. 

Through Opus 4, the OCC can see where 

every airplane and fl ight starts and fi nishes. 

Constant vigil 

The OCC is staff ed around the clock to keep 

traffi c fl owing. The DPM is on duty between 

5.30am and 11pm, with fl ight controllers on 

hand 24-7, 365 days a year. LISA ROSMAN 

The Opus 4 computer system displays departures, 

fl ights in progress, and arrivals as color 

coded dashes 

14 

PHOTO CAMILLA DECEMBER LINDQVIST 2011/JANUARY // SCANORAMA 2012 SCANORAMA 

APRIL 2011 

PHOTO: RASMUS NORRLANDER, SAMIR SOUDAH

Here’s to staying true 

to our passion for winemaking. 

Jacob’s Creek Shiraz Cabernet, awarded the Grand Gold medal 

from the Concours Mondial 2011, is available in all Nordic countries.

SAS MOMENTS 

The pushback 

MOST PLANES HAVE THE ABILITY to reverse by themselves, but at a busy 

airport such as Stockholm-Arlanda it’s not allowed because it’s hard 

for the pilot-in-command (PIC) to pull away from the gate since he 

can’t see what’s behind him. Instead, SAS’s pushback trucks push, or 

tow, the airplane to a spot from where it can taxi to the runway. 

There are three people involved in the pushback – a pushback driver, 

a start-up leader and the captain. The start-up leader functions as 

the driver’s eyes and ears, and plugs his headset into the plane to talk 

to the PIC. He also does a departure check to make sure there’s no 

damage to the plane. Before the pushback truck connects to the aircraft 

a bypass pin is inserted into the nose gear to disable the steering 

mechanism. When the pushback truck is connected, the chocks 

are removed and the gate is pulled back. The pushback driver lifts the 

nose wheel so that the plane is easier to maneuver. Six minutes before 

departure the captain turns on the auxiliary power unit, primarily used 

to power the main engines, and the ground power is disconnected. 

The plane is then pushed to where it can start taxiing. 

Once pushback is complete and the engines are running the startup 

leader gets the OK from the PIC to disconnect the pushback equipment. 

When the airplane is free of all ground equipment the start-up 

leader gives the PIC an all-clear signal and the plane can taxi to the 

runway for takeoff . LISA ROSMAN 

16 DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012 SCANORAMA

NOVEMBER 2, 2011. 1.45PM 

GATE F30, STOCKHOLM-ARLANDA AIRPORT. 

HOLMBERG 

SK730 TO MOSCOW. GRANMAR VIKING, 

BOEING 737-700 WINGLET 

PYSSE 

Pushback driver Per Ahlqvist and start-up leader Joel Petersén 

maneuver Granmar Viking into position, right on schedule. PHOTO: 

SCANORAMA DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012 17

In Guyana, on the tropical North Coast of South-America, Demerara Distillers 

has been processing sugar cane since 1670. In the mid 17th century colonist 

planted sugar, cotton, and tobacco in Guyana’s fertile land but sugar proved 

best suited to the climate and the fi rst shipment soon left for The Netherlands. 

A truly unique rum 

Rum started to be produced by a few of the sugar factories 

and by 1670 every Guyanan sugar factory boasted its own 

small rum still to use the molasses produced as a by-product 

of sugar processing. At one time there where over 300 

sugar plantations in Guyana and during this era the terms 

Demerara Sugar and Demerara Rum where established. 

Because of price fl uctuations in the price of sugar, over the 

years, more and more sugar estates where closed. The consolidation 

continued in the 20th century and by 1970 there 

were just eleven sugar factories and four distilleries left in 

Guyana. By the year 2000 the consolidation process was 

completed and the heritage stills from the different estates 

are since that time all located at the Diamond Distillery 

owned by Demerara Distillers Ltd. The heritage stills are 

of a tremendous signifi cance as with these stills Demerara 

Distillers is the only distillery that has the distinction and 

capacity to produce some truly unique rums under various 

historic marques. 

The El Dorado Brand 

In 1976 Demerara Distillers decided to start also laying 

Demerara Distillers nowadays operates 9 

Rum stills, acquired during the consolidation 

process. These stills all give different 

characteristics allowing all types of rum, 

from heavy pot stilled to very light rums, to 

be produced. 

The Diamond Distillery is however best 

known for its three Wooden Stills : 

� Enmore - Wooden Continuous Coffey Still 

� Port Mourant - Wooden Double Pot Still 

� Versailles - Wooden Single Pot Still 

All of these stills were made using a native 

Guyanese hardwood called Greenheart. 

The Enmore Wooden Still is the world’s only 

surviving wooden column still and also the 

oldest operating Continuous Coffey still. 

The Enmore Sugar Estate and the attached 

distillery were founded by Mr. Edward Henry 

Porter and this all nearly 200 years ago. 

The rum mark made on the wooden Coffey 

continuous still is referred to as “Enmore” 

or “EHP” this after Mr. Edward Henry Porter. 

Rum from this still is used in the El Dorado 

5,8,12,15,21 and 25 Year Old Rum. 

The Port Mourant Pot Still is the only operational 

wooden double pot still in the world. 

Founded in 1732 the Port Mourant Estate is 

reckoned as one of the oldest estates in the 

world. The Port Mourant or PM rum was a 

very popular basis for the rums consumed 

by the British Royal Navy. Rum from this 

still is used in the El Dorado 8,12,15 and 25 

Year Old Rum. 

The Versailles Single Pot still is the only 

operational wooden single pot still in the 

world. Rum from this still is used in the El 

Dorado 15 and 21 Year Old Rum 

Because of the special distillation 

process using Wooden Stills the 

El Dorado – Demerara Rums are 

truly unique and recognized by connoisseurs 

worldwide as being 

a separate unique rum style. 

down ageing rum stock for their own, to be released brand: 

‘El Dorado’. Given that date it is no coincidence that the 

El Dorado brand with its fl agship - 15 Year Old Special 

Reserve - was not launched until 1992. The name El Dorado 

comes from tales of explorers who travelled to Guyana in 

search of a golden city, Manoa, ruled by a gilded King, his 

body dusted with gold. This city of Manoa, was referred to by 

the Spaniards as “El Dorado”. From launch the El Dorado 

range has become the benchmark for aged rums and the 

age statement specifi cally indicates the youngest rum in the 

blend, even though the oldest may be many years older. 

The Stills Guyana 

Guyana is the only country in South-America 

having English as the offi cial language. 

It is bordered by Venezuela on the West, 

Suriname on the East, Brazil on 

the South and the Atlantic Ocean to the 

North. Although being located in the main 

land of South-America Guyana is offi cially 

part of the Caribbean. The name Guyana is 

an Amerindian word meaning 

Land Of Many Waters. 8,5% of Guyana is 

water, hence 

the nickname. 

Guyana has an 

area of 214,969 

sq km, about 

the size of Great 

Britain and has 

approximately 

775.000 inhabitants.

Rum Swizzle Some good places 

Swizzle History 

Icy drink mixtures with rum, fi rst identifi ed as swizzles and 

later as Rum Swizzles, have been mentioned in a variety 

of literature since the mid 18th century: 1760 being the 

fi rst recorded. In these earliest versions, the drink typically 

consisted of rum diluted with water (often with lime, sugar 

and other aromatic ingredients), which was mixed by 

rotating a special forked stick made from a root between 

the palms; another account describes it as spruce beer 

with added rum and sugar. American naturalist and writer 

Frederick Albion Ober noted in 1920 that the swizzle was a 

combination of liquors, sugar, and ice whisked to a froth 

by a rapidly revolved “swizzle-stick” made from the stem of 

a Caribbean plant, Quararibea turbinata (the “swizzlestick 

tree”) or an allspice bush. The etymology of the word 

“swizzle” is unknown, but it may derive from a similar 

beverage known as switchel. 

Rum Swizzles were the drink of choice at what was 

purportedly the world’s fi rst cocktail party held in London, 

England in 1924 by novelist Alec Waugh. 

Swizzle Recipes 

Most commonly, a swizzle contains rum, lime, sugar, bit- 

ters and water, but this can be adjusted to make a drink to 

suit almost anyone. It is the act of swizzling the drink with 

a swizzle stick that gives it the name and even the simplest 

drink can become a swizzle. It is a good idea to stick to 

some ‘rules’ though when creating your swizzle as certain 

elements will add that Caribbean authenticity and make 

the drink more balanced. The best idea is to mix rum with 

1 thing from each of the following 4 categories and it 

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Bitter - Angostura bitters, Campari or vermouth, mint 

Non alcoholic - ginger beer, lemonade, apple juice 

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THE EDITOR 

ONCE DRIVEN, 

FOREVER SMITTEN 

I 

have to admit, I haven’t seen that much of 

Germany. I have passed through, or had 

stopovers there, traveling by plane, train 

and automobile. But it’s always been on the 

way to somewhere else: Bretagne, the Alps, 

the Dolomites, Paris or northern Italy. I still have 

a lot of exploring to do. 

Years ago, I was sent to Munich to cover one 

of the big German marques’ launches. The trip 

was a full-on press junket: seat at the front of 

the plane, chauffeured limousine straight to the 

racetrack. My fellow passengers were longtime 

motoring journalists, and didn’t so much as raise 

an eyebrow when we reached the test facility. 

But I did. It was really something: high-tech, 

expensive and on a grand scale. 

Apart from driving too fast in a $150,000 car, 

we were treated to the southern German landscape. 

We were supposed to eat a traditional 

lunch at a tavern and then spend the rest of the 

day just driving around. There was no danger of 

getting lost: with one press of a button, the GPS 

would guide us back to base. 

We drove through the beautiful fall landscape, 

with the Alps as an occasional backdrop. Some 

of those ample horsepower got a workout, but 

it was mostly a gentle ride through the reddening 

forest. After our pit stop at the authentic 

tavern for beef stew the rest of the day was free. 

My co-driver and I decided to make the most of 

our wheels; while many of the others took the 

same route home, we went in the opposite direction. 

The part of my brain that stores spectacular 

views had to work hard, but the part that appreciates 

architecture was in overdrive. Our host’s 

CONTRIBUTOR: IVAN CARVALHO, WRITER 

You’ve covered Mount Etna’s vintners in 

this issue. Who makes the best wine? 

“They all deserve respect. Volcanic soil 

makes for intense wine, but producers 

could lose everything if the lava flows the 

wrong way. If I had to pick one, it would 

be Marco de Grazia’s winery, Tenuta delle 

Terre Nere (www.marcdegrazia.com). He’s 

got a superb palate and a proven track 

record helping growers up and down Italy’s 

boot make great wine.” 

You live in Milan, where do you buy wine? 

“N’Ombra de Vin in Brera (Via San Marco 

2. www.nombra devin.it) has a unique wine 

cellar. The space dates from the 14th cen- 

test facility was well and truly overtaken by those 

of its competitors. In the middle of nowhere, we 

found incredible architectural tours de force: 

factories, test facilities, HQs and museums. 

But because of our assignment we could only 

appreciate them from afar. 

THE PART OF MY BRAIN 

THAT APPRECIATES 

ARCHITECTURE WAS 

IN OVERDRIVE 

IN THIS ISSUE OF SCANORAMA, Oskar Hammarkrantz 

and Peter Cederling take a road trip 

through Germany’s car kingdom. If you are at 

all interested in cars, architecture or high tech, 

then this is a journey to remember. We also 

tour London’s comedy clubs, Mount Etna’s 

wineries and Harvard University. 

Happy travels. 

See you again in February. 

PER OLSSON 

Editor in chief 

Visit us online 

at www.scanorama.com 

tury and once housed a refectory where 

Augustinian monks ate their meals. Now it 

has 3,000 wines in stock from bordeaux to 

Barolos. It’s the perfect spot for an aperitivo 

before a night on the town.” 

Jet black: A 1951 Porsche 356 

split-window coupe 

Laborers picking grapes on Mt. Etna 

What else would you buy in Milan? 

“Panettone is a must around Christmas. 

I get mine at Pasticceria Marchesi (Via 

Santa Maria alla Porta 11. www.pasticceriamarchesi.it). 

It has the prettiest shopwindow. 

New in town is Coin’s Excelsior 

department store and food hall behind the 

Duomo – it also has a well-stocked wine 

cellar and restaurant (Galleria del Corso 4. 

www.excelsior milano.com). To stay warm, 

I pop into Massimo Alba (Via Brera 8. 

www.massimoalba.com) for cashmere 

sweaters and then dart over to Faliero Sarti 

(Via Solferino 11. www.falierosarti.com) to 

load up on scarves.” 


BOBO OLSSON, PETER CEDERLING, GUIDO CASTAGNOLI

Wherever I’m shooting, I can earn miles, 

and spend them taking my family with me. 

Across 27 airlines, all on one card. 

I’ve earned it. 

Annie Griffiths-Belt, National Geographic Photographer 

and Star Alliance Gold Status 

staralliance.com

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COURTESY OF 40 WINKS 

�The Hit List 

No argument: the best bistecca alla fiorentina under the Tuscan 

sun. Plus, the out-of-this-world LA pizza dazzling the stars 

1Flights 

of fancy 

HOTELS. “Sorry, I don’t do conventional,” 

says David Carter, interior designer and 

owner of 40 Winks, one of London’s smallest 

and most eccentric hotels. He even got 

into the business by accident. 

“This is essentially my own home. I 

started renting it out for fashion shoots 

and the photographers, stylists and models 

loved it so much that they kept asking me 

if they could stay on. So I thought, why not 

turn it into a small hotel?” 

Slang for a snooze, 40 winks has even 

caught edgy East London napping with its 

spin on the boutique hotel. Think Alice in 

Wonderland, only more decadent. Every 

object, every piece of furniture in this 

Queen Anne row house on the shabby 

Mile End Road triggers your imagination, 

40 Winks 

109 Mile End Road, Stepney Green, London, 

England. Tel: +44 20 7790 0259. 

www.40winks.org 

Editor RIKARD LIND 

Wild mix: 40 Winks is not 

your conventional hotel 

be it a lacy corset lamp, Chinese lantern, 

a Victorian dress form, a sombrero or a 

stack of old trunks. 

Carter runs the hotel with two staff. 

There’s no lobby, no TVs in the guest 

rooms – there are only two, a single ($150) 

and double ($225) – or room service, but 

there is a gated parking lot, Wi-Fi, and, in 

keeping with a home from home, a communal 

kitchen. 

“Our guests don’t come to London to 

watch TV,” he says. 

MICHAEL DEE 

� GO TO LONDON SAS takes you to London daily 

from Copenhagen, Stockholm and Oslo. Book your 

trip at www.flysas.com or use your EuroBonus points 

starting at 12,000 points one way 


THE HIT LIST 

Opening soon: Restaurateurs Magnus Ek 

and Agneta Green in their butcher shop to be 


SAMIR SOUDAH 

2 

Oaxen’s first 

stab at the city 

FOOD Fans of Oaxen Krog, the restaurant 

repeatedly named Sweden’s and one of the 

world’s best, needn’t cry into their soup 

now that it’s shut its doors. 

The restaurant in Stockholm’s southern 

archipelago may be no more, but its owners 

are too busy to look back. Magnus Ek 

and Agneta Green have their sights set on 

opening a new restaurant on Djurgården in 

the heart of Stockholm. But until then they 

have another hit on their hands: Oaxen 

Skafferi, an upscale butcher shop on a 

busy corner of Södermalm. 

“We’d dreamed of this for years, but 

it wasn’t until we had closed Oaxen and 

decided to move the business to Stockholm 

that we realized we could really do 

it,” says Green as she goes through tile 

samples on the bare concrete floor of the 

building site that will eventually house 

their store. 

Oaxen Skafferi isn’t your typical butcher. 

The emphasis is on prepared meats, herring, 

spices and seasonal delicacies, as 

well as partly cooked dishes: cold-smoked 

lamb sausage, venison topside, entrecôte, 

roasted pork belly and sautéed pineflavored 

butter. 

All the ingredients are sourced, prepared 

and cooked locally, either by Ek or 

handpicked producers and suppliers. 

“The goal is to sell only our own products. 

Even if that isn’t possible right now, it 

is what we’re aiming for,” Ek says. 

“We want eating good food to be easy. 

You should be able to walk by our shop, 

buy a ready cooked leg of veal, go home, 

and put the finishing touches to a dinner 

that you would otherwise only get at a top 

restaurant.” 

Oaxen Skafferi 

Mariatorget 2, Stockholm, Sweden. 

www.oaxenskafferi.se 

FRIDA JOHANSSON 

� GO TO STOCKHOLM Stockholm-Arlanda Airport 

is SAS’s gateway to Sweden for flights from Europe, 

Asia and the USA. Book your trip at www.flysas.com 

or use your EuroBonus points 


THE HIT LIST 

High ground: The Omnia looks 

down on Zermatt 

3 


LIVING 

IT UP IN 

ZERMATT 

HOTELS We had heard from reliable sources that Piste No.7 in Zermatt 

is the best in the world. No objections here. 

From the Klein Matterhorn ski area (3,883 meters) in Switzerland, 

the slope extends down to Cervinia in Italy at 2,050 

meters. That makes 1,800 meters of undiminished joy through a 

majestically varied landscape passing a handful of dining opportunities 

along the way – if you don’t want to wait for the ravioli and beef 

tagliata below. 

The first lift ride for the day takes you up the shaded side of the 

mountain. You clatter out of the lift station on the other side of 

Klein Matterhorn into blazing sunshine. The cold cuts like a knife. 

The breathtaking view over the seemingly endless chain of dramatic 

alpine peaks makes your heart beat faster, your knees go weak. 

Time manages the magic trick of both standing still and racing, 

as you prepare to cast yourself into the magnificence spread out 

before you. 

At this height, it is unusual for a piste to be as wide and immediately 

inviting as No.7 at Zermatt. It is faultlessly prepared and 

drops away perfectly, letting you shake off the surplus of wound-up � 


THE HIT LIST 

Cold comforts 

(clockwise from left): 

Heated outdoor pool; 

the library’s whiskey 

case; rooms with a view 

expectations with several hundred meters of long, inviting carving 

bends. Your eyes feast on the Alps’ snowy lunar landscape. What a 

start. For a ski run, a day, the rest of your life. 

Piste No.7 is a complete experience, something it shares with The 

Omnia. The hotel gazes down from a cliff-top over Zermatt village, 

the entrance carved into the rock. You turn off from Bahnhofstrasse, 

which runs through the center of Zermatt, and along an alley – into 

the mountain. An elevator deep inside the cave transports you to 

the lobby. It’s an inspiring start to the day, traipsing over to the big 

windows in your room to see how the night’s delicate but abundant 

snowfall has coated the roofs, treetops and mountainsides in a 

thick, white layer. 

Early in the morning, before the sun has climbed over the mountain, 

the village appears to slumber in a silver-gray doze. For the 

full effect, try a bathrobe-clad wander through your Tower Suite 

(the hotel has 30 rooms, of which 12 are suites, all with balconies) 

from the bedroom, through the living room with its fireplace, dining 

area and sofa groups, up to the bay windows where, conveniently 

enough, someone has left a telescope. 

Another way to get in touch with the village and the elements is 

to spend time in the wellness section. The walls are once again of 

glass, and the view as pretty as a picture as you lie stretched out in 

a recliner listening to mild, soothing jazz. If you tire of that, you can 

take a few long strokes in the pool, dive under the surface and come 

up in the crisp winter air in the section of the pool that extends outside 

the building. 

After a day on the mountain, it is wonderful to come home, leave 

your skis in the storeroom, take the elevator up to the hotel, find an 

armchair in the library, pour a glass of whiskey from the outstanding 

selection on the shelf, put your feet up and stare at the flames 

in the fireplace for a while before it is time to get ready for dinner in 

the restaurant. 

Many designer hotels have problems creating soulful rooms, and 

both the level of service and the interior can start to deteriorate 

after a few years. At The Omnia it’s a different story. After a few 

teething pains, it has grown into one of the best hotels anywhere in 

the Alps. Rooms from $600. 

The Omnia 

Auf dem Fels, Zermatt, Switzerland. 

Tel: +41 27 966 71 71. www.the-omnia.com 

� GO TO GENEVA SAS takes you to Geneva 

from Copenhagen, Stockholm and Oslo. Book 

your trip at www.flysas.com or use your 

EuroBonus points starting at 12,000 points 

one way 


ERIK OLSSON

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THE HIT LIST 

4 FOOD 

FIRENZEY 


Pulling power: Il Latini 

still draws crowds 100 

years after opening 

RESTAURANTS It has to be a good sign when 

a restaurant celebrating its centenary is 

still pulling in the sort of crowds that create 

concert-like mayhem between sittings. 

Then again, you won’t find a more Florentine 

restaurant in Florence than Il Latini, 

The Latini family, now in its fourth generation 

of restaurateurs, has been dishing 

up honest local food on the same street 

since 1911. 

“We serve Florentine food, not Italian,” 

says in-law Michele Notarfrancesco, who 

runs the restaurant, wine cellar and farm 30 

minutes south of the city, which produces 

its own wine and olive oil. 

Once you have pushed your way inside, 

you take your place in the soberly lit 

restaurant , where hams hang from meat 

hooks in the ceiling. You sit at long crowded 

tables in keeping with rural Tuscan tradition. 

There’s no menu or wine list, the dishes just � 


THE HIT LIST 

Tastemakers: Michele Notarfrancesco with his 

father-in-law Torello Latini, whose restaurant is 

celebrated for its authentic Florentine cuisine 

arrive: the house ham for antipasto, Tuscan 

minestrone for primo and the bistecca alla 

fiorentina – a bloody, 5cm-thick steak – for 

secondi. 

As the evening draws on and the wine 

keeps flowing, groupings dissolve and new 

acquaintances are made. 

“We love talking with people and we 

love to see people talking with each other,” 

Notarfrancesco says. “People sometimes 

write and say they met their wife or husband 

here.” 

If you’re still hungry, the sugar-laden 

desserts go down a treat before strolling 

back to your palazzo with a bottle of 

Il Latini olive oil under your arm. 

KONRAD OLSSON 

Il Latini 

Via dei Palchetti 6/r (Palazzo Rucellai), Florence, Italy. 

Tel: +39 055 210916. www.illatini.com 

� GO TO ITALY SAS takes you to Rome, Milan, Venice 

and Bologna. Book your trip at www.flysas.com or use 

your EuroBonus points starting at 18,000 points one way 


BOBO OLSSON

Tannins are a large 

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The amount of tannins 

depends on how the wine 

is produced; the longer 

the wine is fermented 

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LOW IN TANNINS AND HISTAMINE 

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This product has less than 2 g/l tannins and less than 1 mg/l histamine. 

Histamine is a biogenic 

amine formed during the 

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COURTESY OF MIBA, WWW.YOVENICE.COM/FLICKR, MUY YUM/ FLICKR 

5 Hall 

Tomorrow’s world 

EXHIBITIONS MiBa (the Museum of Ideas 

& Inventions Barcelona) is the brainchild 

of Catalan inventor and writer Pep Torres. 

It’s the fi rst of its kind: a museum that 

off ers a humorous, frequently strange and 

occasionally prophetic insight into what the 

future may hold. Housed in one of the Barri 

Gòtic’s smart merchant houses, its 19thcentury 

stone archways are a curious contrast 

to what lies beneath. You shoot down 

a slide that connects the ground fl oor with 

the basement, and enter a world where fantasy 

meets reality. 

The “future” exhibit suggests that by 

2131 a disposable brain-patch will be able 

to super-size your memory. By 2150, eggs 

6Mean 

slice: 

Gruyère pizza 

will be sold in “single-unit blisters… due to 

the growing number of people living alone,” 

and between 2175 and 2178 smoking will 

have been been outlawed completely – violating 

this law will carry a hefty 10-year 

prison sentence – until the invention of a 

weird suckable device similar to a baby’s 

bottle paves the way for legalized smoking 

in public places. 

The real-life inventions range from the 

bizarre – a goatee shaver for that perfect 

arrangement of facial hair – to the practical: 

rubber “shoe raincoats” and hollow 

cubic cushions that allow stereo in both 

ears when lounging on the sofa. Perhaps 

the most inspired invention, however, is 

Pizza with attitude 

RESTAURANTS Just a couple of blocks from 

Venice’s Muscle Beach, Gjelina serves up 

a mean pizza in more ways than one. Not 

many places would have the stomach to 

deny Gordon Ramsay and a heavily pregnant 

Victoria Beckham changes to their 

salad. But with its bare concrete walls, 

communal tables and industrial decor – old 

school chairs, a bouquet of mismatched 

lightbulbs dangling from a meat hook as 

a chandelier – Gjelina is as bold as it is 

beautiful. 

Named for owner Fran Camaj’s mother, 

Gjelina always seems to be packed with 

passionate foodies and A-list celebrities 

here for head chef Travis Lett’s rustic small 

plates. But it’s the pizza that’s got us drool- 

THE HIT LIST 

of mirrors: MiBa showcases 

inventions that range from the 

obvious to the absurd 

the most basic. John’s Phone is the world’s 

simplest cell phone: it works everywhere, 

only makes phone calls, with no camera or 

other extras, and looks fabulous. Now that’s 

ingenious. 

TARA STEVENS 

MiBa 

Carrer de la Ciutat 7, Barri Gòtic, Barcelona, Spain. 

Tel: +34 93 332 7930. Entrance $10. 

www.mibamuseum.com 

� GO TO BARCELONA SAS takes you to Barcelona 

from Copenhagen, Stockholm and Oslo. Book your 

trip at www.fl ysas.com or use your EuroBonus points 

starting at 18,000 points one way 

ing. The pie dough takes three days to 

make, and Gjelina does its own ricotta and 

crème fraîche. Keep it simple with mixed 

mushrooms, rosemary and garlic oil or 

go wild with Gruyère, caramelized onion, 

fromage blanc and aragula from the woodburning 

oven (both $14). 

You might even end up sharing a slice 

with Ben Affl eck and Jennifer Garner. 

FRIDA JOHANSSON 

Gjelina 

1429 Abbot Kinney Boulevard, Venice, California, 

USA. Tel: +310 450 1429. www.gjelina.com 

� GO TO THE USA SAS takes you to New York, 

Washington and Chicago. Book your trip at 

www.fl ysas.com or use your EuroBonus points starting 

at 36,000 points one way 

35 DECEMBR 2011/JANUARY 2012 SCANORAMA

Timberland, , Earthkeepers and Go out and be you, are trademarks of The Timberland Company or its affiliates. Green Rubber is a trademark of Elastomer Technologies Ltd. © 2011 The Timberland Company. All rights reserved. 

Shop the collection online at 

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Cannon Mountain 

New Hampshire, USA. 

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Mount Holly Boot. 

Crystal Mountain 

Tall Lace Boot.

THE TRAVELER 

Words by MARCUS JOONS 

Nadir ‘RedOne’ Khayat: 

Nadir “RedOne” Khayat is hard to pin 

down. The Moroccan-Swedish music 

producer has been on seemingly neverending 

world tours since writing hits 

such as Poker Face for Lady Gaga and On 

the Floor for Jennifer Lopez, and was the 

last person to record with Michael Jackson. 

And there’s no sign the travel will 

ease up now that he’s building a giant 

studio in Marrakech and launching his 

own fashion line. Khayat, 39, is even considering 

opening a restaurant in Madrid 

with Real Madrid’s Sergio Ramos. 

You’re in Stockholm now. How long will 

you stay? 

“I am only here today. Tomorrow I’m off 

THE GEAR: WHAT TO PACK 

‘REAL MADRID PC’ 

“I’ve loved Real Madrid ever since I 

was a boy. I always have an extra Mac- 

Book Pro with me so I can watch their 

matches if I’m in the studio. I rarely miss 

a game and sometimes, if I’m in Europe, 

I fl y to Madrid just to see them and hang 

out with my buddy, Sergio [pictured].” 

NAPRAPATH 

“Traveling and being in the studio takes 

its toll. I have a lot of back and neck 

pain. I wish I could pack a naprapath.” 

PORTABLE STUDIO 

“I always have my computer with me – 

a MacBook Pro – and my external hard 

drives. I also need my headphones. 

Unfortunately I can’t say what brand 

they are. I use the Logic Studio program 

suite when I work, I can tell you that.” 

CLOTHES 

“I always fl y in comfortable clothes. I 

like the Swedish label Chadburry and 

its polo shirts, chinos, loose-fi tting suits 

and dress shirts. I never travel without 

my sunglasses either. These faded ones 

I have on today are from Prada.” 

BAG 

“I used to have two big Tumi bags, but 

not anymore: I’m also designing my own 

baggage line.” 

to Holland for the weekend. Then London, 

and back to Sweden again. That’s 

my life these days. Before I came here, I 

was in Madrid and Morocco. Before that, 

it was Los Angeles. All in the past two 

weeks. I have a team of 15 people who 

arrange everything for me, like keeping 

track of all these trips.” 

So sometimes you don’t even know 

what next week will look like? 

“Exactly. And sometimes I don’t even 

want to know if it involves long-haul 

fl ights. Sometimes I have to get somewhere 

quickly to record extra tracks for 

a singer. Sometimes it might be straightforward 

business, everything from music 

to my new fashion label. But I don’t want 

to complain because it’s exciting, like one 

great big dream.” 

Where’s home? 

“I usually say I’m a ‘citizen of the world.’ 

Everywhere is home. Right now, it’s the 

Nobis Hotel. I can walk to the recording 

studio from the hotel. It’s perfect.” 

How do you keep yourself entertained 

when you fl y? 

“I usually listen to all the material I have 

recorded but not yet used. I listen again 

and again, and think, ‘Oh, this would 

work well for that performer, or that one.’ 

An airplane is one of the few places I 

can relax. There are no phone calls, 


SCANPIX,COURTESY OF LE ZOUK 

Monster hitmaker 

messages or e-mails. I was up in the air 

when I heard On the Floor and realized 

it would be a No.1 if I gave it to Jennifer 

Lopez.” 

You’re more of a producer than songwriter 

now. What’s the trick to making 

singers sound their best? 

“I listen and listen and try to work 

out what is special about their voice, 

the tone: which register suits them 

best, where they dazzle. Many times, 

whether a song is a hit or not, it’s about 

writing the tune in the right key for the 

performer so that it shines. I put just as 

much energy into that as which chords 

and key changes a song should have.” 

REDONE’S FAVORITE RESTAURANTS 

Does it get to you that people expect 

everything you touch to turn to gold? 

“No, I don’t think like that. I’m creative 

almost every day, and rarely get concerned. 

I try to surround myself with 

good people who are as positive about 

life as I am. I never get stressed, and if 

things start getting to me, I think, ‘It’s not 

that serious.’ That’s why I’ve been successful: 

I dare to have fun.” 

Is that the secret, daring to have fun? 

“Yes, but not only that. Mostly I’m just 

lucky in that I come from a big musical 

family. There are nine siblings; I’m the 

youngest. Growing up in Morocco, I got 

to listen to all sorts of music, from tradi- 

Not standing-room only: O2 Shepherd’s Bush Empire 

tional Arabian music to fl amenco to Bob 

Dylan. That made me what I am. One of 

the songs that infl uenced me most was 

Europe’s The Final Countdown.” 

What did you see in it? 

“Everything. It’s the perfect song. My hits 

are the same: there’s a break just before 

the chorus and then, ‘Boom, baby, I like 

it.’ These big choruses, you know, they 

all come from Europe and Abba. That 

was what got me to move from Morocco 

to Sweden when I was 19. And The Final 

Countdown also proves my theory that 

all hits, no matter what sort of music, 

should sound just as good if you play 

them on acoustic guitar.” 

BEIRUT CAFÉ, STOCKHOLM 

“I always bring Lady Gaga, Enrique Iglesias, 

Shakira and Britney Spears here. It’s 

their favorite. It’s so good. Sergio and I 

have talked about opening up a Beirut 

Café in Madrid.” 

Engelbrektsgatan 37. Tel: +46 8 212 025. 

www.beirutcafe.se 

NOBU, LOS ANGELES 

“I love the yellowfi n tuna with jalapeño. 

It’s served with a magical sour plum 

sauce. You can get it in London, too.” 

903 North La Cienega Boulevard. 

Tel: +1 310 657 5711. 

www.noburestaurants.com 

LE ZOUK, NEW YORK 

“Great Moroccan cuisine. There’s a real 

vibe here, with Arabic music and dancing 

– if, unlike me, you have the time.” 

47 Avenue B (East Fourth Street). 

Tel: +1 212 777 5454. 

www.lesoukny.com 

LE MAROCAIN, MARRAKECH 

“The La Mamounia hotel has more 

than one restaurant. This is my favorite. 

Typical Moroccan. I’m getting hungry 

even though I’m sitting here eating this 

chicken salad.” 

La Mamounia. Avenue Bab Jdid. 

Tel: +212 524 388 600. 

www.mamounia.com 

SCANORAMA DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012 39 

�

GOOD looking 

GOOD HOTELS EXPLAINED:�We can talk about our hotels 

for hours. But we’re not gonna. It’s simple, really. You want 

good lookin’ hotels at good locations at a good price. 

We give you just that at our 32 hotels in Scandinavian cities. 

...oh, and we throw in free WiFi, free gym facilities at most 

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www.choice.no/comfort 

hotels 

locations 

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KEEP IT SIMPLE

AUTOBAHN 

Best in show: The Mercedes 

300 SL, or Gullwing, from 1954 


Das 

autos 

AUTOBAHN, GERMANY 

Scanorama burns rubber on a 

whistle-stop tour of Stuttgart, 

Ingolstadt and Munich, taking 

in Mercedes, Porsche, Audi and 

BMW along the way 

Words by OSKAR HAMMARKRANTZ 

Photographs by PETER CEDERLING 


AUTOBAHN 

Spinning wheels: The 

rotating car lift at the 

Audi museum 

It is the afternoon rush hour on a jam-packed autobahn 

between Ingolstadt and Stuttgart when we 

notice them: five men on a bridge, sitting in folding 

chairs with cameras and binoculars at the ready. 

These are not train or plane spotters, but car spotters. 

There’s no mistaking Germans’ interest in cars, 

or their pride in them. Factories and museums line 

the country’s expressways. 

“Collecting” unusual car models is not altogether unlike 

birding. An old Horch from 1938 is entered in the notebook, 

along with a record of where it was sighted. But it’s not just 

about the classics. If you want to catch a glimpse of a prototype, 

the obvious hunting grounds are the stretches of autobahn 

within the Golden Triangle of the German car industry, 

Munich-Ingolstadt- Stuttgart. This is where they test and refine 

coming models. 

German car factories produced six million cars during 2010, 

with the German marques’ overseas plants making another 5.5 

million. 

There are over 200 car museums with more than 15,000 vehicles 

on display in this car-crazy country. So you have to find a 

way to stand out. In recent years, the big brands have invested 

billions in museums to their own histories, to attract both new 

buyers and devotees. They have also confirmed southern Germany 

as the true heart of the car world. 

LIKE ANY OTHER TEENAGER, Eric Hemphill is somewhat embarrassed 

when his mother flamboyantly climbs onto a motorbike. 

He’s more interested in the shiny new BMW M3 a bit further 

on. Eric and his family are guests of BMW’s very own Disneyland 

and have come here from Philadelphia. Eric has Hodgkin’s 

disease, a form of lymphatic cancer, and got this trip through 

the Make a Wish foundation. While other teenagers dream of 

meeting rock stars or sporting heroes, Eric’s wanted to visit the 

BMW Museum in Munich. 

“I’m a big BMW fan. Sure, Mercedes is cool too, but there’s 

something sporty and modern about BMW. Something that 

Amer ican cars don’t have anymore.” 

The BMW Museum, right beside the Munich Olympic Park, 

is the granddaddy of German car museums. The Austrian architect 

Karl Schwanzer, whose works include Austria’s spectacular 

embassy in Brasília, designed the bowl-shaped building which 

� 


Sleeping partner: Henderson has been 

known to check into his hotel after dinner 


AUTOBAHN 

Joyride: The futuristic BMW 

Welt, BMW museum and HQ 

opened in 1973. But when the other German car giants started 

planning their monuments at the turn of this century, BMW re - 

stored and extended the museum. 

BMW has succeeded in making an entire Munich neighborhood 

its own. Beside the headquarters, factory and museum, it 

has BMW Welt – technically a car showroom, but unlike any 

other in the world. 

The Vienna-based architecture firm Coop Himmelb(l)au has 

stretched the boundaries of what you can do with materials such 

as glass and steel, and created a screw turning on its own axle. 

When you pick up a brand-new BMW, you take the elevator 

to the penthouse level, where the cars ready for delivery 

are waiting on the polished wooden floor. Once you have paid 

and got the keys, you drive a lap of the top floor and then down 

the “indoor street” – practically a full-scale racetrack – before 

emerging onto the road outside. It’s a new way to pick up your 

car, but also a little nerve-wracking because you have to drive 

past a row of curious spectators. 

Our guide for the day, Florian Moser, has lost his voice following 

the Oktoberfest celebrations. So he gives us a whispered 

tour of the BMW Museum. 

He tells us of the Hofmeister-Knick, the bend in the rear side 

window of all BMWs, and the double headlights, another BMW 

signature. The Hofmeister-Knick took its name from a former 

BMW design chief, Wilhelm Hofmeister, and has been a feature 

ever since the introduction of the BMW 1500 in 1961. 

Moser notes that I don’t have much time for the 1940s and 

One-track mind: Astrid Böttinger, 

PR manager at the Porsche Museum 

1950s models, but linger by some better-looking ones from the 

early 1970s. 

“Yep, it’s sad that we don’t make orange and bright green cars 

anymore. But everyone wants silver and black.” 

The BMW Museum, which together with the BMW Welt 

center is said to have cost close to $700 million, is built around 

themes such as the environment, design and racing. Walking 

past the hundreds of cars, the words that spring to mind are well 

thought-through and executed. If a car from 1968 is on show, 

there will be vintage furnishings – lights, carpets and walls – to 

match. Pretty soon you forget that you’re really just looking at 

tin cans. 

The aggressive but slim-line BMW 507 roadster from the late 

1950s is the showstopper for sports-car enthusiasts and nostalgia 

buffs, but an orange M1 from 1978 defies belief by looking 

at least 20 years more modern than it really is. The 1980s and 

1990s are just as uninspiring design decades at BMW as at other 

manufacturers. 

JUST TWO HOURS NORTH of Munich is the sleepy little city of 

Ingolstadt, not really known for much more than being Audi’s 

hometown. 

Kraftwerk’s 22-minute-long Autobahn is the perfect sound 

track when you are driving between German car museums. At 

least in theory. But all the horn tooting, overtaking and burned 

rubber make me a little nervous, so we quickly switch back to 

commercial radio instead. With a Porsche doing 200kmh, flash- 


�

Unlike any other: The Mercedes-Benz 

Museum has pulled out all the stops 

for auto freaks and their passengers 

Basic instinct: In St. Johnspeak 

your room provides 


AUTOBAHN 

Popemobile: The custom-made 

Mercedes 230 G used by John Paul II 

on his 1987 tour of America 


ing its high beams in your rearview mirror so it can get past, you 

want to avoid any distractions. 

Audi may boast of vorsprung durch technic (“progress through 

technology”), but the marque’s troubled past – a series of mergers 

with Auto Union, Horch, DKW and Wanderer – means that 

its exhibition lacks a common thread. It’s as if it’s aware that it 

doesn’t have as glamorous a story to tell as its cousins. Here things 

are more laid-back and easygoing, not as strict. The cars aren’t as 

meticulously polished, but look as if they have been used. And if 

you want to climb in and “test sit” a Wanderer W22 from 1936, go 

right ahead. The cars are parked on the floor rather than raised 

up on pedestals. 

It’s as if Audi doesn’t really trust its own power of attraction. 

On the ground floor is a collection of motorbikes, despite its modest 

history on two wheels, with BMWs, Kawasakis, Nortons and 

Harley-Davidsons cheek to jowl. It’s somewhat flattering considering 

Audi drivers’ reputation on the expressway. 

Thomas Franck, head of Audi Forum Ingolstadt , says: “It’s not 

in Audi’s nature and philosophy to pound our chest and say we are 

the biggest and the best. We didn’t want to copy BMW’s managers 

and build a monument to ourselves, just to show our origins to 

those who are interested and offer a pleasant diversion.” 

His ideas, however, are not quite as modest. Franck wants to 

transform the stream lined steel-and-glass buildings that surround 

a courtyard the size of two football fields into a total im - 

mer sion in Audiland. You should get there in the morning, eat 

breakfast in one of the restaurants, and take a tour of the museum 

until it’s time for lunch in another restaurant. Then you pick up 

your new car from the Audi hall next door, drive out through the 

hall and park on the polished piazza before doing some shopping � 


AUTOBAHN 

‘We have tried to create 

a classic museum, not an 

amusement park. The cars 

are the stars at Porsche, and 

they speak for themselves’ 

Nose to tail: Nothing goes to 

waste in St. John’s kitchen 



�

AUTOBAHN 

in the Audi store. Then it is time for dinner in the fine-dining 

restaurant, followed by a drink in the cocktail bar. Finally you 

check into the Audi hotel for a good night’s sleep. That there is no 

Audi hotel yet doesn’t impede Franck’s vision. Nor does it occur 

too him that most people just want to drive off in their new car, 

not eat three Audi meals per day. 

Like Markus Bölsterl and Indra Oelker from Munich who are 

here to pick up the Q5 they ordered a few months ago. 

“One reason for picking up the car here is that it is actually 

a bit cheaper to get it straight from the factory. And then you 

get a fun trip in the new car. We will probably skip the lunch 

and dinner.” 

STEEL AND GLASS – and maybe some polished concrete. After a 

while, all the high tech gets to you. But a rustic idyll is never far 

from the autobahn between Munich, Ingolstadt and Stuttgart. 

You just turn off for castles, vineyards and small taverns. 

We drive toward the village of Apfeltrach, two hours west of 

Munich. When we continue through the cornfields, the hum of 

autobahn gives way to a calming silence, the road signs surrendering 

to apple trees. By a brook in the dense fir forest that takes 

over from the cornfields, we find the Katzbrui-Mühle pension in 

an old mill dating back to 1661. Our brand-new BMW rental is at 

odds with its surroundings. Light trickles through the tiny windows 

framed by dark planking. But first we have to pick up our 

room keys at the restaurant. After a couple of perfectly grilled 

Nürnburger rostbratwursts with creamy sauerkraut we’re ready 

for bed. Driving on the autobahn demands a clear head, especially 

when you’re up with the rooster. 

The absence of speed limits is both exciting and terrifying. 

But today there are only a few stretches of free-flowing autobahn. 

And as long as you keep a close eye on the rearview mirror 

and don’t block the left-hand lane, it is like any expressway 

Racing colors: Porsche 908s 

Roar power: The engine room 

at the BMW Museum 

anywhere. The autobahn’s reputation for crazy Porsche drivers 

and gigantic serial collisions is humbling. Drivers indicate their 

intentions clearly and maintain a safe distance better than those 

on most European expressways. 

THE GERMANY CAR INDUSTRY has a pretty incestuous history. For 

example, Volkswagen owns Audi, which in turn owns brands 

including Lamborghini. Volkswagen also owns Porsche, which 

despite that has plans to purchase Volkswagen, and thereby own 

Audi… it all fits together. 

Ferdinand Porsche found time to design the Beetle for Volkswagen 

and work at both Daimler and what would become Audi 

before he started making sports cars in his own name. 

In 2011, the car as an invention celebrated its 125th anniversary. 

In 1886, Carl Benz was awarded a patent for his “vehicle 

with gas engine drive.” Gottleib Daimler was working on his version 

at the same time. When the two men later merged their op - 

erations, they created Daimler-Benz, the foundation for what 

we now know as Mercedes. 

But the German car industry also has a darker past. Like many 

other German industries, it was dragged into World War II – and 

its actors are compelled to tell their story. The museums we visit 

show how they used forced labor to build vehicles and engines 

for the German army. The confessions never feel forced or dutiful, 

but rather genuinely remorseful and believable. 

The autobahn itself was largely a project initiated by the Na - 

tional Socialists in the 1930s. Not that you have time to dwell on 


�

Here’s to staying true 

to our passion for winemaking. 

Jacob’s Creek Reserve Shiraz is available in Norway in most shops and in Sweden in the 

order assortment art nr: 87387 and in Finland in the order assortment art nr: 940027.

AUTOBAHN 

to both Porsche and Mercedes. 

Jeremy Clarkson, presenter of the popular British car show 

Top Gear, once said Porsche’s design team was “the laziest in 

the world.” Porsche’s consistent design, to put it mildly, is of 

course one of its strengths but it also makes its exhibition a trifle 

predictable. 

On the other hand, Porsche is possibly the German marque 

with the most dedicated fans. Here they rely on the cars. Men of 

varying ages – because it is mostly men, with one or two compliant 

girlfriends – crawl reverently up through the spiral-shaped 

building. Many take a few steps back to really soak up the cars’ 

curves and designs. 

Astrid Böttinger, public relations manager at the Porsche 

Museum, says: “We have tried to create a classic museum, not 

an amusement park. The cars are the stars, and they speak for 

themselves.” 

But that’s not strictly true. The cars get some serious competition 

from the building, designed by Austrian architects 

Delugan Meissl. Sharp, ship-like shapes and materials such as 

concrete, steel and mirror glass create a hypermodern building 

in stark contrast to the otherwise sleepy little Stuttgart suburb 

of Zuffenhausen. If Porsche’s design team can be criticized for 

being inhibited or conservative, the same hardly applies to the 

architects. The museum shows from the ground up that Porsche 

has a daring vision for the future. If the car exhibition, understandably, 

is retrospective, there is no doubt that the building 

is meant to demonstrate that Porsche will be a force to be reckoned 

with for many years to come. 

In the driving seat: Behind the wheel of a 

DKW 3=6 Sonderklasse F91 at Audi 

Italians Mauro Mignalio and Fabio Vaseci are true car enthusiasts. 

Their patriotism doesn’t allow them to say anything other 

than that Ferrari builds the world’s best cars. But Porsche seems 

to pass muster too. Although when it comes to museums, they 

have another favorite. 

“Mercedes’ museum is actually quite a bit sharper. Porsche’s 

is beautiful and exciting, but there is more to see at Mercedes,” 

Mignalio says. 

MERCEDES-BENZ’S GIGANTIC MUSEUM stands out from the others 

in two ways. First, it was a Dutchman, not an Austrian, who 

designed it; Ben van Berkel also created the hyper-futuristic 

Theater Agora in Lelystad. Second, it is the only museum store 

of the four that does not sell a logo-adorned portable humidor 

for $550. 

Luay, Ahmad and Ahmad from Syria also stick out. Most of the 

visitors to southern Germany’s car museums are petrol heads, 

or “auto freaks” as they are called here, but instead of staring 

at chrome trim and rearview mirrors they point upward, gazing 

at the high ceiling. The trio study architecture in Damascus 

and have come to Stuttgart to check out the Mercedes-Benz and 

Porsche museums. 

“Van Berkel is a great inspiration, so we came here more to 

see the building than the cars,” Luay says. 

Luay and his buddies are most impressed by the flow of the 

ex hibition, by the way you move almost seamlessly between 

the different themes and decades as you progress downward 

through the circular building. You almost become blind to its 


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Hotels you can rely on: 

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AUTOBAHN 

mag nificence while you are there, a sign that this is modern ar - 

chitecture that works. 

As if to demonstrate that it is still the giant of the German car 

industry, and the father of the modern automobile, Mercedes 

has gone all-in. From a distance, you see a large silver mound. 

Get closer to the 35,000 square meter building and its ingenious 

spiral structure emerges. The silver is raw aluminum, a gorgeous 

homage to Mercedes’ successful racing cars from the end of the 

1930s, the Silver Arrows. 

But it is inside that Mercedes crushes all resistance. 

The steel-clad elevators with vertical slit windows rem iniscent 

of a knight’s helmet that rush visitors up the inner wall to 

the top floor are just one small but entertaining detail. 

There is technology under the surface, too. The museum has 

its own climate system that can actually create a small hurricane 

in the halls to blast out flames and smoke. But the exhibits are 

al most priceless. Just like the other museums, the exhibits are 

not replicas but the real deal, cars that have competed on tracks 

around the world or transported popes. 

There is one star here that shines brighter than the others. 

The Mercedes 300 SL from 1954, also called the Gullwing, makes 

you breathe a little harder. And everyone thinks the same thing: 

“What if cars still looked like that?” 

Mercedes has invested a lot in “all-round experiences.” There 

are interactive stations aplenty for bored schoolchildren. At one 

of the smaller stands, I get a crash course in the history of the 

Wunder-Baum, or Little Trees, air fresheners. 

Michael Bock, managing director of the Mercedes-Benz Mu - 

seum, says: “The museum has to be fun for the entire family, 

not just those interested in cars. You might have dragged your 

wife here, and she might get bored after half an hour if the only 

thing to see were cars.” 

Admiring a classic car is one thing. Owning one is another. 

But at the Mercedes-Benz Young Classics Store, you can drive 

off with a piece of modern motoring history. In contrast to the 

ex hi bition specimens, these ones are for sale. What about an 

aqua marine 300 SL from 1988, only 70,000km on the clock, for 

€42,450 ($58,500)? It’s a high price to pay to look like Bobby 

Ewing from the TV series Dallas, but the cars here are in im - 

maculate condition, as close to new as you can get. 

Of course, you could keep going: all the way up to Wolfsburg, 

where Volkswagen has its enormous Autostadt, a mixture of 

mu seum, factory, car showroom and experience center; Opel 

is planning a museum in its hometown of Rüsselsheim; and a 

real auto freak would never miss a detour to the racetracks of 

Hocken heim and Nürburgring. 

Nowhere else in the world are there such monuments to the 

car, let alone so many within a few hours’ drive. � 

� GO TO MUNICH SAS takes you to Munich from Copenhagen, Stockholm and 

Oslo. Book your trip at www.flysas.com or use your EuroBonus points starting at 

12,000 points one way 

Fine tuning: Mechanic Walter Layer 

at work in the Porsche repair shop 


WHY KEEP THE WINE 

IN YOUR CELLAR, 

WHEN THE PARTY 

IS UPSTAIRS? 

redwhite.no 

[yellow tail] wines are available at Vinmonopolet Norway, Systembolaget Sweden (Cabernet 

Merlot), Alko Finland (Shiraz) and Netto, føtex and Bilka in Denmark (Shiraz and Merlot). 

PLAY BY YOUR RULES, DRINK RESPONSIBLY.

AUTOBAHN 

NEXT TO THE 

NORTH POLE 

Roadside attraction: The 

Mercedes-Benz Museum 

pulls in its fair share of 

architectural buffs 

Experience the highlights of Svalbard in five days! 

THE FACT SHEET 

BMW Museum 

Olympiapark 1, Munich. 

Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm. 

Admission: $15. 

www.bmw-welt.com 

Audi Museum Mobile 

Ettingerstrasse 60, Ingolstadt. 

Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm. 


www.audi.com 

Mercedes-Benz Museum 

Mercedesstrasse 100, Stuttgart. 



www.mercedes-benz-classic.com 

Porsche Museum 

Porscheplatz 1, Zuff enhausen. 



www.porsche.com 

Katzbrui-Mühle 

Katzbrui 7, Apfeltrach. 

Tel: +49 8269 575. 

Doubles from $110. 

www.katzbruimuehle.de 

Join us when we explore Spitsbergen’s 

wild and beautiful northwest coast on 

the nostalgic and comfortable coastal 

steamer MS Nordstjernen. Enjoy mighty 

summits, exiting landings with Polar- 

cirkel boats, the teeming wildlife and 

calving glaciers over five magical days! 

Spitsbergen Adventure Voyage 

From NOK 9 270,-* 

Price per person in an inside cabin with full 

board, one or two nights on hotel including 

full board in Longyearbyen, city tour in Longyearbyen 

and landings in Polarcirkel boats. 

Early booking offers ends 31 January 2012. 

*Included 10% early booking discount. 

For booking or more information, please 

contact us on + 47 79 02 61 00 or see 

spitsbergentravel.no. 


A PART OF

LOOKING FOR PREMISES? 

Offices that create an environment for success 

Norrporten has properties from Luleå in the north to Hamburg in the south. We partner with 

our tenants to create workplaces that support rapid decision-making and effective work processes. 

The result is environments that inspire spontaneous meetings, where information flows freely 

and where employees and customers feel comfortable. 

Welcome to call us at +46 60 64 12 00 or visit www.norrporten.se. 

Norrporten is one of Sweden’s largest property companies. The company owns and manages properties with a total rental area of just over 1,1 million m 2 , 

of which 80 per cent is office space, 15 per cent is shop space and the remainder is apartments. The total value of the properties is around SEK 20 billion. 

Norrporten is environmentally certified in accordance with ISO 14001. Norrporten is owned by the Second AP fund and the Sixth AP fund. 

Japanese knives are the choice of the world’s top 

chefs—and those who simply want the very best for 

their cooking. Cutlery Tsubaya handles all of Japan’s 

top knife brands, as well as magnificent hand-tooled 

knives from Japan’s finest craftsmen. Knives for every 

kind of cooking (even knives for every kind of fish!), 

many at prices below those in Europe. A fascinating 

place to visit, in Tokyo’s exciting Kappabashi area. 

Luleå 

Umeå 

Sundsvall 

Gävle 

Stockholm 

Örebro 

Jönköping 

Växjö 

Helsingborg 

Köpenhamn 

Hamburg 


frosting.se

THE WEEKENDER 

JOLLY GOOD 

Words by 

Photographs by 

BRIJESH PATEL TREVOR BAKER 

SHOWS 

LONDON, ENGLAND 

Granted, the economy is no joke, 

but stand-up comedy has never 

been in ruder health 

Just for laughs: 

The Comedy Pub, 

Piccadilly Circus 


glengrant.com 

Enjoy responsibly 

Single malt, 

as it should be. 

SINGLE MALT

THE WEEKENDER 

For obvious reasons 

you don’t hear the 

expression “laughing 

all the way to the 

bank” much these 

days. However, in London, there 

is one group of people who 

have every reason to chuckle 

as they deposit their latest 

paycheck: comedians. Britain’s 

stand-up comedy scene 

is booming. In and around 

Piccadilly Circus there are at 

least 10 comedy clubs every 

Saturday night (most are open 

seven days a week). There are 

many more at pubs scattered 

across the Tube network. As 

a result, comedians from 

around the world, not just 

the English-speaking part, are 

drawn to the city. London, with 

its pointy-hatted policemen, 

strutting pigeons and cheeky 

cabbies, has always been a 

funny old town but a comedy 

weekend here is, as Woody 

Allen almost said, the most 

fun you can have with your 

clothes on. 

Where to go 

The Comedy Store is the king 

of London’s comedy scene, 

having helped boot alternative 

comedy into the mainstream 

when it opened in 1979 (1A 

Oxendon Street. Tel: +44 844 

871 7699. www.thecomedy - 

store.co.uk. $25-$30). A few 

doors along there’s The Comedy 

Pub, which puts on new 

talent, as well as bigger names 

(7 Oxendon Street. www.piccadilly 

comedy.co.uk. $12-$15). 

Just around the corner is one 

of the 99 Club chain’s many 

venues. The Storm Nightclub 

was voted Best Venue in website 

Chortle’s 2011 comedy 

awards (28a Leicester Square. 

www.99clubcomedy.com. $11- 

$27). All are within a few 

minutes walk of each other in 

the West End. It’s also worth 

making a detour to some further-flung 

parts of London. 

The King’s Head in Crouch 

End (2 Crouch End Hill. Tel: +44 

208340 1028. www.downstairsatthekingshead.com. 

$6-$15) and 

Night job: 

Comedian and promoter 

Mike Manera in action at 

The Comedy Pub 

the Banana Cabaret in Balham 

(The Bedford. Tel: +44 208 682 

8940. www.bananacabaret.co.uk. 

$5-$25) are both favorites of 

comics for their sympathetic 

audiences, while Up the Creek, 

in Greenwich, known for its 

rowdy heckling, is a rite of passage 

for up-and-coming comedians 

(302 Creek Road. Tel: +44 

208 858 4581. www.up-thecreek.com. 

$6-$20). 

What’s on 

Fortnightly listings magazine 

Time Out has a large comedy 

preview, which is also useful 

for making sure you don’t take 

your grandma to see one of the 

many comics who specialize in 

filth (unless she likes that kind 

of thing, of course). The above 

venues are for over-18s only, so 

don’t take the kids. Buy tickets 

online or on the door. 

Who to see 

Comedian and promoter Mike 

Manera recommends Chris 

Norton Walker, Adam Belbin 

and Julian Deane as among the 

best of the new breed of comics. 

December through January, 

the original and hilarious Terry 

Alderton is appearing regularly 

at The Comedy Store in its The 

Best In Stand-Up show. Also 

at the Comedy Store, every 

Sunday and Wednesday, are 

the Comedy Store Players, the 

world’s longest-running comedy 

show. They started their 

improvised routines in 1985 

when they were unknowns. 

Mainstay Paul Merton is a TV 

regular and one of Britain’s 

best-known comedians. And 

now for something completely 

different, to quote Monty 

Python, in January The Comedy 

Pub hosts Shazia Mirza, who 

has built her career on being 

a Muslim woman but whose 

deadpan humor is unmistakably 

British. 

Pipe up or keep quiet? 

Most comedy clubs and comedians 

encourage a certain 

amount of heckling. Be warned, 

though, all good comics have 

an armory of jokes designed 

to put hecklers in their place. 

They also have the advantage 

of a microphone, leaving you 

to shout over the crowd. As a 

rule the meek chuckle at the 

back, while the brave sit right at 

the front and join in. The bravest 

of the brave can go one 

step further and do a comedy 

course. Up the Creek offers a 

weekend course tutored by a 

headlining comedian for $240, 

and gives you the chance to 

perform on one of its showcase 


�

WARNING 

an unforgettable 

experience! 

An experience for life! 

Join us and explore spectacular Svalbard! 

Let yourself be captivated by Svalbard’s breathtaking landscape, 

facinating wildlife and the pristine wilderness. We promise you 

true excitement if you are so lucky as to meet the ‘King of the 

Arctic’, the polar bear. 

When in Longyearbyen we recommend you to visit ‘Huset’, the 

most northerly gourmet restaurant in the world, renowned for its 

fantastic cuisine, specializing in the use of Arctic ingredients. Not 

to mention its extensive wine cellar – one of the best in Northern 

Europe. 

March offer in the period 01.03–31.03 NOK 4490,- per person. 

The price includes 3 nights in a double room at Svalbard Hotell, 

and a snowmobile safari. 

Offer code: Scanorama12 (the offer applies to weekdays only) 

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centre at Huset! Conference package offer in the period 01-31.03 

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The price includes 3 nights in a single room at Svalbard Hotell, with 

full pension, including one evening with a 4 course dinner at Huset 

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THE WEEKENDER 

Funny guy: Germany’s ‘comedy 

ambassador’ Henning Wehn 

nights (Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. 

www.london comedy course.com). 

The Comedy Pub also runs 

weekend courses with a 

professional comedian for $175 

(Saturday 10.30am-12.30pm, 

Sunday noon-4pm). 

Where to stay 

Lastminute.com is a good place 

to find your hotel and buy tickets 

for shows at the Comedy 

Pub and other venues. The 

Strand Palace Hotel is close 

to the West End and currently 

under refurbishment, with 

some rooms available at a discount 

(372 Strand. Tel: +44 20 

7836 8080. Doubles from $130. 

www.strandpalacehotel.co.uk) 

Where to eat 

Eating while watching comedy 

is frowned upon. You’ll only 

end up spraying a mouthful of 

coq au vin over your friends. 

It’s best to eat first and many 

of the restaurants in the West 

End do “pretheater menus” for 

early birds. The Italian Kitchen 

does a two-course soup and 

pasta menu for $15 (43 New 

Oxford Street. Tel: +44 20 7836 

1011. Noon-7pm. www.italiankitchen.uk.com). 

Or, if you fancy 

something spicier, the comedy 

clubs of Piccadilly and Leicester 

Square border Chinatown. 

The newly opened Manchurian 

Legends will appeal to 

more adventurous palates (12 

Macclesfield Street. Tel: +44 

20 7437 8785) even if some 

of the dishes – “stir-fried pig’s 

intestines with leeks” anyone? 

– sound like the punch line to 

an old-fashioned joke. Nearby 

Rules, the oldest restaurant in 

London, serves traditional comfort 

food (game, pies and puddings) 

of the kind you’d expect 

John Cleese and Michael Palin 

to tuck into (35 Maiden Lane, 

Covent Garden. Tel: +44 207 836 

5314. www.rules.co.uk). 

Make them smile 

All comedians, even the ones 

who go onstage wearing a 

leather jacket, desperately want 

to be liked. So don’t be afraid to 

ask them for their autograph. 

“They’ll be flattered,” promoter 

Mike Manera says. “You can 

have a comic onstage in front 

of 400 people, making them 

howl with laughter, and then 

they’ll be standing at the bus 

stop with everybody ignoring 

them. Comedians are easy to 

talk to; 90% of them are really 

nice people.” 

The last laugh 

Many comedy clubs turn into 

clubs after the final act. Up the 

Creek plays disco, soul and funk 

from 11pm to 2am and is the 

kind of place where bad pickup 

lines provide their own kind of 

comedy. 

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Words by Ivan Carvalho Photographs by Guido Castagnoli 

Mount Etna, Sicily Winegrowers are 

throwing caution to the wind as they plot 

a volcanic eruption of their own – albeit 

of the grape variety 


Behind the scenes: The back lot 

of Marco de Grazia’s Tenuta 

delle Terre Nere winery 


Mention “wine” and 

“It a ly” in the same 

sen tence and people’s 

thoughts usually turn 

to picturesque vineyards 

in Chianti or the gently rolling hills 

of the Langhe. Their olfactory memory 

kicks in and summons up the bouquet of 

a Super Tuscan or Barolo they lingered 

over in the cellar of some well-manicured 

estate or while dining at one of the fancier 

restaurants that dot Italy’s most popular 

wine regions. 

But if you’re looking for today’s hottest 

winemakers, don’t expect much in the 

way of postcard-perfect surroundings. 

Ask around at the local enoteca and the 

big news is what growers are getting up 

to on Mount Etna, a place that, coincidentally, 

happens to be the hottest in the 

country thanks to all that scalding magma 

beneath the surface. Here, lava is spat 

out of Europe’s tallest and most active 

volcano with enough force to put any self- 

New growth: Giuseppe Tasca 

has high hopes for the wines 

produced on Tasca d’Almerita’s 

Mount Etna Tascante estate 

shame. Amid the debris fields of basalt 

rock that litter its lower reaches, vintners 

fearlessly toil to turn this corner of Sicily 

into the Next Big Thing in fine wine. 

Of course, some might question the 

san ity of those who would build anything 

on the slopes of a volcano, but the si ren call 

of Bacchus is strong on Etna. In the past 

decade, it has lured wine lovers from as 

far away as Belgium. Like latter- day prospectors 

in search of a liquid mother lode, 

they are convinced that Etna’s mineral- 

rich soil possesses something special. 

For many, the goal is no less than to one 

day have their vintages mentioned in the 

same breath as the Lafites and Latours of 

the world. 

respecting sommelier and his spittoon to 

OUR JOURNEY UP ETNA TO MEET the personal 

ities who are shaping its viticultural 

future starts first with a minor detour to 

central Sicily to see Giuseppe Tasca, who 

along with his brother, Alberto, runs the 

Tasca d’Almerita winery. The family’s es - 

tate at Regaleali is a two hour drive from � 

� 


Good karma: Monks 

accept offerings from 

local stores with a bow 

LE QUARTIER CHINOIS 

‘ETNA FEELS LIKE 

THE MIDDLE OF 

NOWHERE AND 

YET IT HAS THIS 

STRANGE APPEAL’ 

Main street, downtown Linguaglossa: 

Wine enthusiasts pound the black lava 

cobblestones on their way up Etna 


Juggling act: Students beeline for 

Chez Van, where Madame Van 

(above) cooks her thread-thin Lan- 

Follow the lava brick road: The 

SS120 runs through the Mount 

Etna wine region 

the volcano, with a farm, cooking school 

and row upon row of vines surrounded by 

arid hills and the odd windmill. For 180 

years, the Tascas have lived off the land. 

And Giuseppe, who has the air of a laidback 

professor with his unkempt beard 

and wavy hair, can’t hide his passion. 

“Have you tried our white from Capofaro? 

It’s delicious. It comes from Salina, 

the island where they filmed Il Postino,” 

he says. 

Over lunch he serves a chardonnaybased 

sparkling wine made on the premises. 

The bubbly is being poured in part 

to welcome guests, but also to celebrate 

Tasca being named “2012 Winery of the 

Year” by Italy’s Gambero Rosso wine 

guide. The recognition comes at a time 

when the Tasca family is investing both 

money and manpower in Sicily’s indigenous 

varietals, from a white wine made 

with the grillo grape on Mozia, an island 

off Marsala, to reds from nero d’Avola 

grown on the estate. From Salina to Monreale 

south of Palermo, Giuseppe and Al - 

berto oversee a winemaking dy nasty that 

is determined to change how out sid ers 

view the island. 

“In the 1800s, Sicily was known mostly 

for Marsala,” Alberto says. “There was 

also great interest in making still wines 

but over time things went downhill. Phylloxera 

[the root-feeding aphid] hit and 

people started to emigrate. By the 1950s 

producers focused on high yields with the 

latest equipment and quality dropped. 

Sicily got stuck with the reputation as a 

maker of bulk wine used for blending in 

other wines.” 

Today, the Tascas’ mission is to show 

wine drinkers that the island is more than 

just nero d’Avola, the darling of Sicilian 

winemakers. For a long time the brothers 

had the nagging sensation that something 

was missing. Then, during a visit to 

Etna in the 1990s, Giuseppe witnessed 

Buried treasure: Frank 

Cornelissen tends to the 

amphorae in his garage 

firsthand an eruption that made a lasting 

impression on him. 

“It was better than any fireworks show 

I’d ever seen. I felt an attraction to the 

place. It feels like the middle of nowhere 

and yet it has this strange appeal.” The 

decision to go ahead and acquire vineyards 

on the volcano’s northern slope was 

made easier since, with the right care, the 

dominant local grape, nerello mascalese, 

could hold its own against the mighty 

French grapes of cabernet, merlot and 

pinot noir. 


�

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Midas touch: Marco 

de Grazia’s Tenuta 

delle Terre Nere 

today produces 

160,000 bottles 

THE NEXT DAY WE SET OFF for Etna. From 

Catania, a winding road leads up the eastern 

approach. Off to our right the sea is 

bathed in a glorious Mediterranean light. 

In the fall sky above, almost 3,400 me ters 

up, we can make out the vol cano’s cone. 

From our vantage point, Etna looks far 

from menacing except for the thin plume 

of white smoke coming out of its crater. 

But the volcano is biding its time. This 

year there have already been 12 eruptions, 

the last one a month before our 

visit. While most eruptions don’t result 

in lava threatening surrounding towns, 

the tremors and ash clouds, which often 

end up grounding flights at the nearby 

airport, can be unsettling. 

Deep down Sicilians are a fatalistic lot. 

When it comes to Etna, which has been 

active for 700,000 years, and the threat of 

losing everything in a cataclysmic eruption, 

locals seem to take it in their stride. 

If it happens, it happens. So it’s no surprise 

then that more than a fifth of islanders 

decide to live in its shadow. Drawn by 

its fertile soil, people work the land to cultivate 

lemons, oranges, figs, olives, pistachios 

and, of course, grapes. 

THE DRIVE INTO WINE COUNTRY takes us 

along the SS120 road, first used during Ro - 

man times, to Linguaglossa, which serves 

as base camp for wine enthusiasts visiting 

Etna. The town has its fair share of aging 

palazzos still trying to look dignified un - 

der the harsh midday sun. Built over an 

old lava stream, its main street is lined 

with heavy, black lava cobblestones – an 

upside to the volcano’s fiery fury is that lo - 

cals can at least quarry rock from old lava 

spills to build anew. Nearly every street 

has a butcher shop advertising its wares, 

no doubt doing brisk business thanks to 

the need to supply choice meats to pair 

with the region’s hearty reds. 

We push on and pass a few sleepy villages 

before reaching our destination: 

Pas so pisciaro. Nestled at 600 meters, it 

sits in the heart of the Etna wine region, 

which is a couple of kilometers wide and 

20km long. To an outsider the settlement 

feels like something out of a Sergio Leone 

spaghetti western. Weeds overrun a de - 

serted soccer field and stray dogs have 

free rein. Abandoned buildings still show 

signs of bomb damage from World War II 

when Allied troops passed through dur - 

ing the liberation of the island from Mus - 

so lini’s grip. On the main strip there’s lit - 

tle sign of life save for a lone barbershop 

and two poorly lit cafés patronized by 

gray-haired men who pass the time gossiping 

about the harvest. It has that air of 


�

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Fields of gold: Tasca 

d’Almerita’s terraced 

vineyard on Etna 

being on the brink of extinction, something 

the town last risked in 1947 when 

Mungibeddu, the Sicilian name for Etna, 

blew her top and laid waste to vines and 

olive groves in the hills above. Good Catholics 

that they were, villagers sought di - 

vine intervention from the Virgin Mary, 

who came to their aid to halt the oncoming 

molten wave. 

In front of the railway station, which 

appears to have last been used in the 

1950s when emigration took away a gen - 

eration of farmers, we meet Giuseppe 

Russo. 

“Welcome to the new frontier of wine,” 

Russo jokes. The bespectacled winemaker 

invites us to his home next door 

to the station’s empty waiting room and 

platform. Upstairs in his kitchen visitors 

from Switzerland are tasting his popular 

Feudo vintage. Recently named the country’s 

top vintner by Gambero Rosso, the 

classically trained pianist turned winemaker 

is still coming to terms with his 

newfound fame. “I’m in a bit of shock to 

be honest. My first vintage was only in 

2005. But I was fortunate enough to have 

inherited land that has great potential for 

wine making.” 

Russo cracks open a bottle of San Lo - 

renzo, the growth of his tiny estate that 

comes from 100-year-old vines, made 

150 meters up the hill using the alberello 

training system, which relies on low, free- 

‘OVER 2,000 YEARS AGO THEY 

WERE MAKING WINE ON 

ETNA, AND I DON’T THINK THE 

ROMANS WOULD HAVE PUT UP 

WITH DRINKING VINEGAR ’ 

standing bushes. With nose to glass, the 

wine’s bouquet releases a wealth of aromas: 

cherries, violets, tobacco, a trace of 

oak. On the palate it has nebbiolo-like 

tannins but the nerello mascalese is less 

austere. 

From his balcony, Russo points to the 

railway that was built in 1895 to go around 

the mountain and connect Etna’s vineyards 

to the seaside town of Riposto. The 

port soon became an economic hub with a 

weekly publication dedicated to the wine 

trade and consulates from France to Sweden 

setting up office there. Grapes were 

Cantina: 

San Giorgio 

e il Drago in 

Randazzo is a 

must for Paola’s 

meatballs and potato 

croquettes, and a 

glass of wine 

dispatched from the docks to mainland 

Italy and abroad. In the 1920s, there were 

even rumors that nerello had found its 

way into Bordeaux after a blight hit and 

producers in Burgundy are said to have 

relied on stocks during the 1960s. “Our 

grapes were used to better other wines 

that were able to make a name for themselves. 

Now at least we can call the shots,” 

Russo says. 

Our next stop takes us to Frank Cornelissen, 

a former wine trader from Ant werp 

who as a teenager spent his allowance collecting 

grand crus. Based in Solicchiata, 


�

Fine selection of rare Argyle Pink Diamonds

the thin-bearded Cornelissen decided to 

switch from seller to producer in 2000 

after a blind tasting of an Etna wine at 

a restaurant in Modica. “The first bottle 

was a bit harsh, very green in tannins, but 

it was eye-opening,” he recalls. 

After years of burgundy and Barolo, 

Cornelissen decided to go back to nature 

and take a radically different approach to 

expressing Etna’s terroir. He adds nothing 

to his wine and leaves it unfiltered. In 

place of oak barrels, he ages his wines in 

400 liter terracotta jars that are buried in 

the volcanic soil inside his garage. 

“I wanted to imagine how people made 

wine in the past. Over 2,000 years ago 

they were making wine on Etna, and I 

don’t think the Romans would have put 

up with drinking vinegar.” 

Cornelissen even traveled to Georgia’s 

Ka k heti region to meet farmers who have 

long used amphorae in wine making. To - 

day, he makes 20,000 bottles of his allnatural 

wine and prides himself on his 

hands-on approach, which includes 

painting the labels on his prized Magma 

vin tage. “My philosophy is this: the person 

who makes the wine should be the 

one to prune the vine, because the vine 

is everything.” 

Agriculture on Etna can be hard going. 

Summers are hot and dry; winters can be 

cold and harsh. Grapes see big fluc tu a tions 

in daytime and nighttime temper atures, 

and October, traditionally the har vest 

month, gets the most rain, making growers’ 

lives a nightmare as they mull over 

the best time to pick. Rocky de bris left 

behind by recent lava spills restricts acreage, 

forcing some to plant vines on steep 

gradi ents. On sharp slopes make shift 

chairlifts are used to transport grapes. 

Workers, who pick by hand, communicate 

with their colleagues at the base of 

the hill by signaling with colored rags. 

When we visit Tasca d’Almerita’s Tascante 

estate on Etna, laborers are busy 

picking up rocks one by one to clear 

away a re cently planted field. The rocks 

are then re cycled to build storage huts 

and walls that line the label’s terraced 

vineyard. The scene recalls agriculture 

as practiced by the ancient Greeks, who 

settled on Etna 2,700 years ago. 

MARCO DE GRAZIA HAS JOINED the ranks of 

so phisticated winemakers eager to elevate 

Etna’s reputation in viticultural circles. 

A wine importer who moved to Etna 

in 2002, de Grazia has three decades of 

experience helping growers up and down 

Italy improve their own labels and prime 

them for export. But when he came across 

Hot rock: Etna 

smokes away in 

the distance 

the wines here, he finally got the urge to 

get his hands dirty. 

“Never in my wildest dreams did I think 

I’d be a grower but I see great potential,” 

says de Grazia as he tucks his pruning 

shears into his breast pocket. “It’s a cross 

between Burgundy and Piedmont. On my 

label I even call it the ‘Burgundy of the 

Mediterranean.’ ” 

Over dinner, we taste his 2008 Calderara 

Sottana. During the meal, the wine 

opens up and grows deeper and becomes 

silkier. While the bulk is nerello mascalese, 

he adds a touch of nerello cappuccio 

grape, which he describes as “fleshier, 

the merlot to mascalese’s cabernet.” To - 

day, Tenuta delle Terre Nere produces 

160,000 bottles, and de Grazia has four 

growths of which he is very proud, including 

one made from vines that predate the 

phylloxera epidemic. 

Next to his winery in Randazzo, a town 

on the northwestern edge of Etna that has 

been lucky enough to escape the volcano’s 

wrath, we try a few more wines over lunch 

at the popular trattoria San Giorgio e il 

Drago housed, fittingly, in a former cantina. 

The Anzalone brothers, Pippo and 

Daniele, keep patrons’ glasses filled with 

local vintages and pair them with sumptuous 

plates of rabbit and polpette (meatballs) 

that are skillfully prepared by their 

mother, Signora Paola, 79. She rules with 

Uphill struggle: Nerello mascalese vines 

a firm hand from her perch in the kitchen, 

often telling off her sons if they are slow 

to pick up orders. It’s early afternoon and 

the rustic dining room is close to empty, 

but in future the untiring Paola may need 

to put in overtime. If Etna’s vintages keep 

racking up top scores, it won’t be long be - 

fore the food and wine crowd is clamoring 

for a table. � 

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THE FACT SHEET 

WHERE TO STAY 

Hotel Feudo Vagliasindi 

Renovated 19th-century manor 

house set among vines and olive 

groves. Doubles from $110. 

Strada Provinciale 89, Randazzo. 

Tel: +39 095 7991823. 

www.feudovagliasindi.it 

Shalai Resort 

Contemporary hotel and spa housed 

in a historic palazzo. Doubles from 

$175. 

Via Marconi 25, Linguaglossa. 

Tel: +39 095 643128. 

www.shalai.it 

Palmento La Rosa 

Bed-and-breakfast with stunning 

views and a garden of cacti, palms 

and lemon trees. Doubles from $165. 

Via Lorenzo Bolano 55, Pedara. 

Tel: +39 095 7896206. 

www.palmentolarosa.com 

WHERE TO EAT 

San Giorgio e il Drago 

Rustic family run trattoria serving 

fresh pasta and a large selection of 

Etna wines. 

Piazza San Giorgio 28, Randazzo. 

Tel: +39 095 923972. 

Boccaperta 

A husband and wife run this charming 

eatery specializing in authentic 

Sicilian fare. 

Via Umberto 96/98, Linguaglossa. 

Tel: +39 095 7774333. 

www.ristoranteboccaperta.com 

WINERIES 

Tasca d’Almerita Winery & 

Cooking School 

Tenuta Regaleali, Sclafani Bagni. 

Tel: +39 0921 544011. 

www.tascadalmerita.it 

Frank Cornelissen 

Via Nazionale 281/299, Solicchiata. 

Tel: +39 0942 986315. 

www.frankcornelissen.it 

Azienda Girolamo Russo 

Via Regina Margherita 78, Passopisciaro. 

Tel: +39 328 3840247. 

www.girolamorusso.it 

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 

Contrada Calderara, Randazzo. 

Tel: +39 095 924002. 

www.marcdegrazia.com 

Thirsty work: Field hands 

at Tasca d’Almerita’s 

Etna vineyard clear rocks 

from the soil 


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Other highlights include the 

Raumabanen railway and a beautiful 

sea voyage on the Hurtigruten 

coastal express. Relax and 

enjoy the experience, visit the Art 

Nouveau Centre in Ålesund, stroll 

along Bryggen wharf in Bergen 

or walk in the Flåmsdalen valley. 

Sognefjord 

in a nutshell 

- Huge fjord, huge experience! 

Combine a beautiful boat trip on 

the Sognefjord – Norway’s longest 

and deepest fjord – with a 

spectacular train ride on the Flåm 

Railway, a masterpiece of engineering! 

We recommend an overnight 

stay en route in order to 

fully experience the breathtaking 

scenery of the Sognefjord. 

FOR BOOKING AND MORE INFORMATION: 

Visit www.fjordtours.com or call Fjord Tours Customer phone: +47 815 68 222. 

Norway 

in a nutshell ® 

– Norway’s most popular round 

trip! 

This tour includes the spectacular 

Flåm Railway, the unbelievably 

narrow Nærøyfjord and the steep 

hairpin bends of Stalheimskleiva 

(May – September). Combine an 

overnight stay in Flåm with a fjord 

safari, kayaking or a walk along 

the Nærøyfjord. 

BERGEN 

GUDVANGEN 

STALHEIM 

VOSS 

ÅLESUND 

GEIRANGER 

BALESTRAND 

ULVIK 

FLÅM 

MYRDAL 

ÅNDALSNES 

Geiranger & Norway in a nutshell ® 

Sognefjord in a nutshell 

Norway in a nutshell ® 

DOMBÅS 

OSLO 

��

HANN ANN AN A ES MAI M R 

www.marmot.eu

HAVING FUN ON ICE 

HUNTING 

FOR ICE IN 

NORWAY 

PLASMA 15 

900 FILL DOWN 

THE MARMOT PROS 

ALBERT LEICHTFRIED AND 

BENEDIKT PURNER EXPLORE 

THE LAND OF THE ELKS 

TROLL WALL JACKET 

GORE-TEX® PRO SHELL 

ALPINIST PANT 

GORE-TEX® PRO SHELL 

CAPTURED WITHIN THE UNREAL ICE

The trigger for this ice climbing trip was an invitation from the 

Norwegian alpine club “Norsk Tindeklub” to climb in the Lofoten 

islands. The offer to look for new lines together with some of the 

current best alpinists, like Marko Prezelj, Colin Haley, Aljaz Andere and 

many more, while at the same time being served fresh fish daily was 

just too attractive and I couldn’t resist. 

FROSTY START IN LAVANGEN 

Before heading to the important meeting at Lofoten, we wanted to search for 

some ice lines on the mainland, eastward of Narvik. On our arrival polar Norway 

sent us a cold welcome with -20 °C temperatures. Very close to Lavangenfjord 

the existing ice climbing area of Spansdalen is located. With uncountable 

possibilities at all grades, if you’re lucky you might even meet some other 

climbers here: normally an absolute rarity in Northern Norway. 

On the first day we looked for a line not too far from the road, because our 

bodies still felt the exhaustion of the journey. As usual in Northern Norway, the 

seemingly short approach turned out to be farther than it looked, and due to 

exhausting trailbreaking it took much longer than we estimated. At 5 p.m. it 

was dark, so already on our first day we had to use our headtorches. 

FROZEN BØNES – ONE DAY IN THE STORM 

After the cold start the next day we looked for a route in the sun. The famous 

and beautiful shaped “Flågbekken” WI5/6 in Salangen was the best choice at a 

still freezing -16 °C. The day after, we wanted to take a step in the direction of 

Sweden. We arrived in Bønes at -20 °C and with 80 km/h winds – ice climbing 

seemed to be impossible. But the cold air flow was only at the bottom of the 

valley. Higher up at the start of the route it was calm at a mere -8 °C. We 

managed to climb the great route, 250 metres on demanding ice around WI6 

X/R. When looking for a name for the route, “Frozen Bønes” was the only thing 

that came to my mind. Poor Hannes had to wait at the bottom of the valley with 

his telephoto lens in the storm and suffered frostbite on his nose. 

HAPPY END - SUMMIT OF HOVEN 

BIG DAYS IN SORDALEN 

The weather changed dramatically. The Gulf Stream had predominance now 

and the baltic -37 °C changed into +9 °C in the fjord on the next day. Now 

was the right time to start our activities in Sordalen. One perfect line after the 

other sprawl up to 700 metres over the steep granite face on the west slopes 

of the valley. On sight and totally clean we were able climb the routes “Stalker” 

700m WI6/M7 which is completely vertical over 300 metres of its length, 

and “Remember Mi” WI7-/M8, the ultimate fragile formation. These were two 

absolute highlights in our ice climbing career. 

LOFOTEN 

Driving to Kabelvåg took us eight hours longer than usual because of a strong 

storm. With 200 km/h wind speeds the Lofoten Islands were separated from 

the outside world. Heavy rain over three days and temperatures far above 

0 °C had a disastrous effect on the ice conditions on the islands that are well 

exposed to open sea. Nevertheless the climbers from all over the world were 

highly motivated. The strategy was quickly changed from ice climbing to winter 

climbing and we experienced some interesting days on the island in impressive 

surroundings. 

www.marmot.eu 

HANNES MAIR

LARS SCHNEIDER E

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Sizes: S, M, L, XL, XXL 

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Materials: GORE-TEX® Performance 2L 100% Nylon 

Weight (Size M): 873 g 


THIS FREERIDER COMBO WILL 

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The twin-laminate GORE-TEX® Performance Shell face fabric keeps wind and water out 

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has a removable powder skirt and numerous pockets to securely store goggles, maps, 

a hat and other essential items. The ventilation openings in the pants allow you to cool 

down, which is so essential on the ascent before your next freeride. Integrated gaiters, 

articulated knees and ankle zips guarantee optimum wear comfort. The jackets and pants 

can be zipped together to eliminate gaps. 

Colours 

GORE-TEX® Performance Shell 

Designed to provide breathable comfort and durable waterproof protection, these 

shells are ideal for a wide range of outdoor activities and outerwear garment 

requirements. 

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VARIANT JACKET 


WOMEN’S 

VARIANT JACKET 

Sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL 

Materials: 100% Nylon Ripstop DWR » POLARTEC® Power Stretch® 88% Polyester 12% Elastane 

Insulation: thermal r ECO 

Weight (Size M): Men �� 

Fill Weight (Size M): 80 g 


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Men Women 

MARMOT 

upcycle® 

 

thermal r 

E C O 

CHR CH ISTI ISTIAN AN WWEIER 

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WOMEN’S 

SPIRE PANT 


Materials: GORE-TEX® Performance 3L; 100% Polyester 

Weight (Size M): Men �� 


CONCEIVED AND BUILT FOR SHREDDING 

AND CARVING IN THE DEEP STUFF 

Is your idea of a good time hurdling down a steep run, neck-deep in powder? This 

state-of-the-art three-layer GORE-TEX® pant was conceived and built for shredding 

and carving in the deep stuff, and makes a perfect accompaniment to any of Marmot’s 

outstanding snowsport jackets or technical mountain shells. An athletic cut and 

articulated knees put no barriers between you and your best moves. 

Colours 

Men Women 

GORE-TEX® Performance Shell 

Designed for a wide range of outdoor activities. Provides breathable comfort 

and durable water- and windproof protection. A specific GORE-TEX® 

membrane is bonded to the outer material and protected on the inside by a 

separate lining. 

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KKK LA AU S KRANEBITTER

HANGTIME JACKET 


Materials: 100% Polyester DWR Ripstop DWR 

Insulation: 650 Fill Goose Down 


Weight (Size M): �� Fill Weight (Size M): 191 g 


The Hangtime’s unique baffling and contrasted kissingwelt 

zippers create a visually exciting and new look for an 

insulated puffy jacket. Stuffed with 650-fill Goose Down 

this jacket also has an integrated hood and internal Lycra 

cuffs with thumbholes that keep warmth in the cold out! 

Colours 

MOUNTAIN DOWN JACKET 


Materials: MEMBRAIN® 2L 100% Nylon Twill Rip 

Lining: �� Insulation: 650 Fill Goose Down 




Our popular classic has been given a complete update and is now even 

more impressive in its performance. The Marmot MEMBRAIN® face 

fabric keeps rain and snow out and protects the down. 

The 650 fill down keeps you warm when belaying on the icefall, 

skiing down through the powder or on big alpine expeditions. 

Added warmth is provided by a longer cut and hood. 

Colours 

WOMEN’S CHELSEA COAT 

Sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL 

Materials: MEMBRAIN® 2L 100% Nylon 




Distinct, urban-chic lines and details camouflage serious protection n 

from the elements in the waterproof, insulated Chelsea. Sized 

specifically for women, this full-length coat is stuffed with 

650+ goose down, and features a zip-off hood with a removable 

fur ruff, and zip handwarmer pockets. 

Colours 

membrain® 

membrain® 

650 FILL 

down 

650 FILL 

down 

650 FILL 

down 

Marmot Down 

From the beginning, down has been Marmot’s foremost insulator. No synthetic 

surpasses the lightweight, compactability and longevity of down. 

AMA DABLAM JACKET 


Materials: 100% Polyester DWR Ripstop 

Lining: 100% Polyester Embossed WR 

Insulation: 800 Fill Goose Down 

Center Back Length (Size M): 72.5 cm 

Weight (Size M): �� Fill Weight (Size M): 118.2 g 


The Ama Dablam follows the light-is-right credo to offer 

maximum warmth with minimum weight and a dash of class 

for down protection in the mountains and cold-weather 

style in the valley. 

WOMEN’S MOUNTAIN DOWN JACKET 


Materials: MEMBRAIN® 2L 100% Nylon Twill Rip 


Center Back Length (Size M): 68.5 cm 



Our popular classic has been given a complete update and is now 

even more impressive in its performance. The Marmot MEMBRAIN® 

face fabric keeps rain and snow out and protects the down. 

The 650 fill down keeps you warm when belaying on the icefall, 

skiing down through the powder or on big alpine expeditions. 

Added warmth is provided by a longer cut and hood. 

WOMEN’S MONTREAUX COAT 

Sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL 

Materials: 100% Polyester DWR 




Full-length wintertime luxury for a song, the Montreaux Coat’s 

elegant styling and rich details disguise a wealth of advanced 

technologies designed to keep you dry and warm. Durably waterresistant 

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corrals heat for a civilized interior, even in wild winter conditions. 

The down filled hoodzips off for sunny days. 

THE PRODUCTS SHOWN HERE ARE ONLY A SELECTION OF HIGHLIGHTS FROM MARMOT’S COMPLETE LINE. 

IF YOU WANT FURTHER INFORMATION VISIT WWW.MARMOT.EU, OR IF YOU WOULD LIKE A COPY OF THE LATEST 

WINTER CATALOGUE CONTACT US AT KATALOG@MARMOT.EU. 

Differences in colour, errors and modification excepted. AGENCY: Arts of Sales GmbH 

Colours 

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PERFECT HARVARD 

Harvard Yard 

Perfect 

Harvard 

America’s oldest university is 375 years old. 

Scanorama gives you 10 ways to cover yourself in ivy 

Words by EVA WISTEN Photographs by ALEXANDER BERG 

92 DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012 SCANORAMA

Harvard University, with its ivydraped 

buildings, privileged 

students, and more cash than 

any other university in America, is 

spread across Boston and Cambridge, 

the two cities facing each other over the 

Charles River. But it’s in Cambridge, 

by Harvard Square, where you fi nd its 

roots. For a crash course in university 

life take a stroll through the gates of 

Harvard Yard, the oldest part of campus. 

Here libraries, dormitories, classrooms, 


and the president’s offi ce surround a 

lush lawn shadowed by old American 

elms, oaks, and honey locusts. This is 

where – with a little luck in the housing 

lottery – freshmen live. 

Come here on a snowy night and catch 

wired law students sledding down the 

steps of the Widener Library on trays 

borrowed from the canteen. Or wait for 

a spring day when bright-eyed English 

majors exit a Marjorie Garber lecture to 

take up with Beowolf on the lawn. 


�


Student digs: Harvard Yard’s Matthews Hall and Hollis Hall 

1. The walk 

The Harvard campus is open to the 

public during the day. Walk down Mill 

Street and Dunster Street and check out 

campus life at the student dormitories – 

at least from the outside. Facebook’s 

founder Mark Zuckerberg lived in the 

Kirkland House on Dunster Street 

although The Social Network was shot 

elsewhere. If you see people touching 

the foot of the John Harvard statue for 

luck, don’t follow suit. At night, Harvard 

students – so studious and well behaved 

during the day – drop their pants and 

pee on it. The Harvard Information 

Center does guided campus tours. 

Holyoke Center Arcade. 1350 Massa - 

chusetts Avenue. Tel: +1 617 495 1573. 

www.harvard.edu 

2. The class 

Harvard teems with high-profile professors 

and guest speakers. Walter Isaacson, 

author of Steve Jobs, the authorized 

biography of the late Apple CEO, stops 

by at winter break to teach a class on 

“how to write.” The Harvard School of 

Engineering and Applied Sciences has 

had Ferran Adrià of El Bulli in to chat 

about molecular gastronomy. And that 

crimson piece of fabric that snapped 

around the corner was not a research 

graduate student but the Dalai Lama. 

Some talks are open to the public. Check 

the events calendar at the Office for the 

Arts at Harvard or the Harvard Gazette, 

the university’s official newspaper. 

Harvard Gazette 

www.news.harvard.edu 

Office for the Arts at Harvard 

www.ofa.fas.harvard.edu 

3. The exhibit 

The Glass Flowers at the Har vard 

Museum of Natural History might be 

the world’s most exquisitely crafted 

teaching aid. This permanent collection 

consists of thousands of anatomically 

correct models of plants made entirely 

from glass by Leopold Blaschka and his 

son, Rudolph. The German glass artists 

spent 50 years molding delicate petals, 

tufts of bluets, and shimmering lily pads 

for Harvard’s botany classes. 

26 Oxford Street. Open daily 9am-5pm. 

www.hmnh.harvard.edu 

The Glass Flowers, 

Harvard Museum of 

Natural History 

4. The bookstore 

Looking at the brightly lit window 

displays of glistening books, you can’t be 

sure if this is a celebration of American 

words or graphic design. The Harvard 

Book Store makes you forget your 

Kindle and appreciate weight. This 

independent bookstore has supplied 

students with textbooks since 1932. 

Today, alongside the classics and 

academic texts, its book tables sum up 

most dinner party conversations in 

town. Haruki Murakami, Orhan Pamuk, 

Salman Rushdie, and Stephen King have 

all participated in the weekly readings. 

Bargain, used and print-on-demand 

books (almost five million titles) can 

be found in the basement. It even does 

same-day deliveries of books to your 

picnic blanket. It’s often a good idea to 

ask one of the salesclerks reading behind 

the counter if you can have whatever 

they are having. 

1256 Massachusetts Avenue. Tel: +1 617 

661 1515. www.harvard.com � 



5. The epic snack 

L.A. Burdick’s Chocolate Shop & 

Café is Harvard Square’s best stop for 

a hot chocolate (it also serves coffee). 

With its soft lighting and tables too 

small for homework and laptops, this is 

one of the last bastions of coffeehouse 

conversation. The staff make their own 

pralines from different varieties of 

cocoa beans and are happy to explain 

the differences. Don’t feel touristy for 

choosing the Harvard Square – walnuts 

snuggled in chocolate, then frosted 

with more chocolate – from the pastry 

cabinet. Down the street, the onescreen 

Brattle Theatre shows foreign, 

classic and independent films. Since 

the Fifties, The Brattle begins every 

Harvard semester with a Humphrey 

Bogart series. Casablanca is reserved for 

Valentine’s Day. 

L.A. Burdick Chocolate Shop & Café 

52D Brattle Street. Tel: +1 617 491 4340. 

www.burdickchocolate.com 

The Brattle Theatre 

40 Brattle Street. Tel: +1 617 876 6838. 

www.brattlefilm.org 

6. The truck stop 

Cambridge is full of start-ups and 

spillover business from the universities. 

Massachusetts Institute of Technology 

graduates founded Clover Food Lab, 

a health-conscious, vegetarian fastfood 

chain with trucks in Boston and 

Cambridge, and a permanent home 

in a brightly lit warehouse at Harvard 

Square. This is the place to grab a quick 

and cheap sandwich, delicious rosemary 

fries (you would swear they were 

healthy), a coffee or a hot brew of ginger 

and honey to cure the almost inevitable 

East Coast winter cold. The staff send 

each other orders on their iPhones, and 

obsess about flavors, nutrition and the 

caffeine content of each dish and drink. 

If your curried spaghetti squash soup is 

a bit bland, help yourself to extra basil. It 

grows on the table. 

Clover HSQ 

7 Holyoke Street. www.cloverfoodlab.com 

7. The rooftop brunch 

The saying “the better the view, the 

worse the food” is not true of Daedalus. 

From the spacious rooftop deck 

overlooking Mount Auburn Street, 

you can tuck into a hearty brunch of 

eggs Benedict and huevos rancheros 

washed down with a mimosa. At night, 

it’s all about the draft beer, with the 

Irish owners only too happy to pour 

you a stout or ale from the old country. 

The crowd tends to be heavy on chain 

store preppy, Ugg-shod students and 

young consultants. But you’re just as 

likely to find an MIT kid who runs three 

companies from his bed-cum-office in 

nearby Somerville. 

451/2 Mount Auburn Street. 

Tel: +1 617 349 0071. 

www.daedalusharvardsquare.com 

8. ‘The game’ 

Harvard Crimson is the collective name 

for Harvard University athletics teams. 

Harvard has more teams in Division 1 

of the National Collegiate Athletic 

Association than any other university. 

Football is a big deal, especially when 

the Yale Bulldogs are the bad guys. 

For 127 years, it’s been blue against 

crimson in The Game, the Ivy League 

showdown played in November at 

either the Harvard Stadium or the Yale 

Bowl. In early spring, attention turns 

to ice hockey. The first two Mondays 

in February see crowds gather at the 

Garden in Boston for the Beanpot, 

a two-day hockey tournament 

between Harvard, Boston University, 

Harvard Book Store 

Rizzo’s Joseph Calautti 

Harvard Stadium 

95 North Harvard Street, Allson, Boston. 

www.gocrimson.com 

TD Garden 

100 Legends Way, Boston. www.td - 

garden.com/www.beanpothockey.com 

Northeastern, and Boston College. 

9. The look 

Preppy, the style of the northeast elite, 

is as rare as the snow leopard around 

Harvard’s campus. Even the super-rich 

now dress as anonymously and casually 

as the modest, hopeful American middle 

class did before it put on a watertight 

parka and set up camp in Zuccotti Park 

with Occupy Wall Street: jeans, sneakers 

or sensible Timberlands or Sorel boots � 


Tired of high travel expenses for yourself and your employees? 

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Take responsibility 

– join us! 

This is some of the Norwegian companies taking corporate social 

responsibility through membership in Grønt Punkt Norway. 

Jaana Røine CEO at Grønt Punkt (Green Dot) Norge 

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©

for the winter; no-logo shirts, hoodies 

or pullovers. Some might splurge on the 

cashmere, but you can more or less go to 

Gap and get the Harvard student look. 

But where’s the fun in that? Bobby from 

Boston, named for its owner Bobby 

Garnett, specializes in quality men’s 

vintage with a substantial collection 

of Oxford shirts, white button-downs, 

Burberry coats, and gently worn 

corduroy at reasonable prices. Costume 

designers frequently call Garnett, 

who has helped assemble era-specifi c 

preppy styles for movies such as A 

Beautiful Mind. If not yet perfect, let 

Rizzo’s Joseph Calautti, the best tailor 

in Harvard Square for as long as anyone 

can remember, alter your buys and it 

will be. 

Bobby from Boston 

19 Thayer Street, South End. 

Rizzo 

66 Church St. Tel: +1 617 547 5052. 

10. The fi nals club supper 

Look out on a wintry Harvard Square 

warmed by the fi replaces at either end 

of the Soiree Room at UpStairs on 

the Square, one of two restaurants 

housed in a former Harvard fi nals club 

Add a little color to your palate. 

Widener Library 

and theater. (The more laid-back but 

no less dressed up Monday Club Bar 

is on the ground fl oor.) The interior 

looks like someone handed a bag of 

cash to Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’ 

eccentric relatives in Grey Gardens and 

asked them to decorate, the classic New 

England locale a riot of gold leaf and 

hot pink walls, mirrored ceilings and 

leopard-print carpet. The menu features 

New England oysters, horseradish 

panna cotta, pumpkin ravioli, and a 

Szechuan peppered duck breast with a 


plush pairing of fi gs roasted in red wine 

and vanilla mascarpone potatoes. On the 

weekends the Zebra Tea, a three-tiered 

stand of sweets, pastries (lovely éclairs) 

and savory treats (egg salad profi teroles) 

is also available downstairs in the 

appropriately carpeted Zebra Room. 

91 Winthrop Street. Tel: +1 617 864 1933. 

www.upstairsonthesquare.com 

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Shelter from the storm 

VEMDALEN, SWEDEN 1.39PM: “After a 3km uphill trek I finally 

reached my destination: Jaktstugan (“the hunting lodge”) 

on Skalsfjället Mountain in Härjedalen, northern Sweden. 

I’d worked up quite a sweat despite the blizzard-like conditions: 

-15C, windy and snowing. Nowadays cross-country 

skiers on the hunt for waffles, soup and coffee stop off at 

Jaktstugan before continuing or turning back downhill. 

You can still see traces of its past in the stuffed animals, 

hides and fireplaces. Peak season or not, as long as there’s 

snow it will be open.” www.jaktstugan.net 

MATS ANDERSSON, CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER 


WISH YOU WERE HERE 


Dynamic 

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in the Heart of Europe 

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svenskaskolanparis.com 

SVENSKA SKOLAN I PARIS 

ECOLE SUEDOISE DE PARIS

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT FROM INVESTMENT MANAGER SKAGEN FUNDS 

Investing with 

a Philosophy 

Stavanger, on the stormy West Coast of Norway, seems 

like the most unlikely place on earth to find a world 

class fund manager. But thousands of miles from the 

investment groupthink of London and New York, 

Scandinavian boutique, SKAGEN Funds, is proving 

a very Nordic success story. 

The North Sea in stormy weather. After sunset. Højen. 1909. Detail. 

By Laurits Tuxen, one of the Skagen painters. 

The picture is owned by the Skagens Museum.


Businesses don’t thrive by 

following the crowd. Why 

should fund managers be any 

different, asks Mark Lewis? 

MARK LEWIS/JOURNALIST 

Trusting your philosophy 

On 15 September 2008, when the whizz kids 

of the fi nancial boom came blinking out of the 

Lehman Brothers offi ce in Canary Wharf, it must 

suddenly have dawned on many of these former 

Masters of the Universe how little they knew. 

The years spent sitting in front of 

a fl ickering computer screen in London 

turned out to be poor preparation for 

fi nancial Armageddon, when facing 

down warlords in West African jungles 

would have been more appropriate 

training. 

“When the fi nancial world fell off a 

cliff, 10-15 years of fund management 

experience and a degree in fi nance 

didn’t help,” says Tim Warrington, head 

of International at Scandinavian investment 

boutique, SKAGEN Funds. “After 

all, these were the people who got us 

into trouble in the fi rst place.” 

Certainly, Warrington’s experience as a 

Gurkha commanding offi cer, meant he 

could keep a cool head in a crisis. But 

as investors all over the world made the 

classic mistake of piling out when stock 

prices were low, SKAGEN was faced 

with the same problem as every other 

fund manager on the planet: convincing 

clients that their stocks had underlying 

value, even while the market sent them 

plummeting. 

“It was during the 2008 downturn that 

we saw how the information and education 

that we had given our clients about 

how our funds work really paid off for 

them,” says Åge Westbø, SKAGEN cofounder 

and deputy managing director. 

“A lot of our clients stayed in our funds 

in that period and then quickly got 

back into the black when the markets 

rebounded.” 

Throughout the crisis, SKAGEN’s fund 

managers ignored the sheep and 

lemmings. They stayed true to the 

SKAGEN investment philosophy and 

trusted the decisions they had made 

prior to the crash. SKAGEN has its own 

share of fi nancial whizz kids, of course. 

But stock picking for the company’s 

three equity funds is underpinned by a 

simple philosophy: the stocks should 

be undervalued, under-researched, and 

unpopular. 

The company’s philosophy is one of 

bottom-up stock picking. Fund managers 

select companies irrespective of 

industry, geography or indices. And the 

equity funds all have a global mandate, 

so stocks come from all over the world. 

But, however geographically disparate, 

the stocks share certain attributes. 

When investing in companies, portfolio 

managers value a strong balance sheet, 

limited exposure to debt, good cashfl 

ow, and management with a commitment 

to creating and sharing shareholder 

value. Deep analysis of these 

companies should also reveal likely 

triggers which in the medium term will 

release some of that value to SKAGEN 

clients. The philosophy is as simple 

to explain as it is devilishly diffi cult to 

implement. 

But thriving in 2008’s turmoil 

became about more than a strong stock 

picking philosophy. It also demanded 

that enough SKAGEN clients trusted 

their portfolio managers to stick with 

them through the turbulence. SKAGEN 

believes that the company’s culture of 

openness and communication here was 

key. As Westbø says, “The easiest thing 

in the world would be to go into hiding 

when stocks take a downturn. We make 

sure we continue to communicate with 

our clients and explain why we think 

these things have happened.” 

Right from the beginning the company’s 

founders believed it was critical for 

SKAGEN to align company interests with 

those of its clients, in order to build 

credibility and trust. The equity funds 

have performance-based fee models 

and the remuneration of the fund 

managers is tied closely to the risk 

adjusted return they are able to generate 

for the clients. In addition, all 

of SKAGEN’s portfolio managers are 

invested in their own funds, often with 

very large amounts of their personal 

wealth. “Our business model is to 

have alignment with our clients,” says 

Kristian Falnes, portfolio manager. “We 

have clear incentives to work with our 

clients and that is an important part of 

our model.” 

It is a business model which has been 

around since the fi rm’s four founders 

started out in 1993, investing money for 

their friends and family during the week, 

and sitting beside them at the dinner 

table at the weekend. Ever since, 

despite the value of its funds growing to 

€12 billion, SKAGEN has tried to maintain 

that same level of dinnertable trust. 

�

UNDERVALUED 

COMPANIES 

�� 

fundamental values 

are not reflected in the 

share price 

�� 

which are out of the 

spotlight due to the 

sector to which they 

belong 

UNPOPULAR 

COMPANIES 

�� 

records or have 

committed “past sins” 

�� tory 

or hard-to-access 

information 

�� 

of-favour sector or 

region and thereby 

be shot by association 

UNDER-RESEARCHED 

COMPANIES 

�� 

little to no research 

coverage 

�� 

which are wrongly 

researched and/or 

misunderstood since 

analysts’ perceptions 

about the company 

are erroneous 

Illustration: Per Dybvig

� 


So while, yes, Warrington had faced 

down West African warlords, it was 

his ability to create confidence and 

trust in the people around him which 

recommended him to Westbø. “Maths 

and econometrics are important,” says 

Westbø. “But they are only tools. Being 

able to use those tools is defined by the 

type of person you are. In the end, you 

need to understand the clients whose 

needs you are trying to meet. And that 

comes from the character of a person, 

and their understanding of people.” 

He is keen, he says, to make sure that 

the firm is not staffed only by business 

school graduates. Rather, it is staffed 

by a diverse group of generalists, who 

do not gravitate towards financial 

groupthink. “That has always been a 

cornerstone of the company. All of the 

founders, and all of the employees, 

understand that the world is defined by 

people.” 

KRISTIAN FALNES 

If that sounds woolly, it shouldn’t. The 

success of the “3U’s” and the firm’s 

focus on client relationships, speaks 

for itself. SKAGEN’s €4.7bn SKAGEN 

Kon-Tiki emerging markets fund has returned 

16.9 per cent a year since it was 

launched in 2002, outperforming the 

benchmark MSCI EM Index every year 

since inception. SKAGEN Vekst, a €1bn 

Norwegian-based fund, has returned 

14.8 per cent since its 1993 inception, 

while the €3.8bn SKAGEN Global has 

made 14.9 per cent a year since launch 

in 1997. 

Each of SKAGEN’s three equity funds 

are independently ranked as amongst 

the best in the world by agencies such 

as Standard & Poor’s, Morningstar 

and Wassum. And as Harald Espedal, 

chief executive and investment director 

points out, with no target for client 

acquisition, SKAGEN can grow at a pace 

with which everyone is comfortable. 

Gazprom – the “3U’s” in action 

SKAGEN, he says, is not a firm of asset 

gatherers. The company’s primary goal 

is to deliver best risk adjusted returns to 

its clients. 

Clients, who have bought into the 

company philosophy, trust that their 

portfolio managers are making good 

investment decisions, and portfolio 

managers like to think that their clients 

are going to stick around. Managing 

large amounts of in and outflows from 

nervous and jumpy clients is disruptive 

for the portfolio managers and detracts 

from the considered stock picking and 

long-term investment for which SKAGEN 

is famed. 

That means the portfolio managers can 

carry on doing the thing they are best 

at: being contrarians. 

Kristian Falnes, portfolio manager of SKAGEN Global, explains why Gazprom is a good business case 

“All of our three equity funds have a large holding in the 

world’s largest gas producer, Russian Gazprom, and this 

company demonstrates elements of all of our “3U’s”. 

Gazprom is clearly unpopular - it is perceived as 

having bad corporate governance and the dividend yield 

is low as the company has little free cashflow because 

it is in the middle of an investment spree. Although the 

company is not under-researched, we feel that it is badly 

researched and misunderstood. 

Gazprom’s price relative to its expected earnings 

is low (P/E of 3.5) and it is sitting on vast resources 

so it is clearly not overvalued. It also has good 

A stong balance sheet 

and good cashflow 

suggest underlying 

strength 

fundamentals including a really strong balance sheet 

and good operating cashflow. 

We also believe that there are triggers which will release 

value for our clients in the future. For example, Russia is 

looking for inward investment, and we hear from Moscow 

that corporate governance is at the top of the agenda. We 

also feel that the continued liberalisation of the Russian 

gas market and the possibility of further discoveries and 

development of Russia’s huge gas reserves makes the 

company an attractive investment.” 

Source: Gazprom

Contrarian with a purpose 

Doing it differently for the right reasons 

“Just because the stocks in Hong Kong 

fell by 5% this morning, doesn’t mean 

that the companies are 5% worse,” says 

Åge Westbø, SKAGEN Funds deputy 

managing director and co-founder. 

The observation goes to the heart of 

Westbø’s contrarian outlook. 

He is a contrarian character. Possessed 

of an agile mind, which bounces from 

subject to subject, he first rages at rival 

fund managers who buy stocks just to 

prove they are doing something, then 

takes a philosophical detour, as he 

discusses Marx and Kant. Each time, he 

challenges orthodox interpretations, 

and comes up with his own considered 

alternative. 

“If you say black, he will say white,” 

says one SKAGEN insider. 

As one of the four founders and five 

major shareholders of the company, 

Westbø can be as contrarian as he likes. 

(“My greatest fear is that we become 

part of the establishment,” he says). 

But you quickly realise that this type of 

outlook runs throughout the company. 

“It certainly applies to SKAGEN,” says 

Harald Espedal, chief executive, investment 

director and another of the five 

major owners. “The business ideal of 

providing great returns is founded in a 

contrarian approach.” 

“If you think like most other participants 

in the market then you won’t be able 

to achieve a return which is in any way 

better than the market. So if you want to 

make money for your clients, then you 

need to have a view which is different 

from other investors.” 

Investment decisions are made from 

the bottom up. The firm does not invest 

in markets or indices. It invests in 

companies from all corners of the globe. 

In addition to making their own investment 

decisions, portfolio managers do 

all of their own analysis – a relative rarity 

– and they have to pitch and justify 

their ideas to all of their investment 

colleagues. And, because the owners of 

the company are the same sage heads 

who believe in long-term investment, 

there is no incentive for disruptive stock 

churn or panic selling in a downturn. 

Says Espedal, “being independent 

means that we don’t have to meet quarterly 

performance targets, so we can 

take the long-term view and do the right 

things for our clients.” Funds tend on 

* 

average to hold stocks for just six 

months. But once picked, SKAGEN 

stocks remain in the funds for an 

average of between three and five 

years, regardless of what the rest 

of the market is doing. 

Indeed, true to contrarian form, SKAGEN 

managers regard a falling market as 

the ideal time to pick up unloved gems. 

“In this industry, people seem to sell 

when the stocks get cheap, and buy 

when they are expensive again. They 

don’t want to do it but that is the kind of 

behaviour you exhibit when you don’t 

understand risk properly,” says Westbø. 

Kristian Falnes, SKAGEN Global portfolio 

manager, and another of the five 

major owners of the company, has his 

own interpretation. 

“The efficient market is a myth,” he 

says. “The market is irrational. So when 

everyone says a stock is bad, that is the 

first place we look.” (See case study box 

on previous page). Sometimes, stocks 

are just bad and undervalued for a good 

reason. Bad management or poor corporate 

governance can destroy value, 

no matter how attractive some of the 

numbers appear. But often the unloved 

apples are the ones which turn out to 

be the 

“The market is irrational. So when everyone 

says a stock is bad, that is the first place we look.” 

sweetest. 

“Each 

of our 

equity 

funds comprises about 100 companies. 

But where we do invest, it needs to 

be from a different viewpoint,” says 

Espedal. “Since we tend to invest in 

companies which are unloved we need 

to have a more optimistic view of the 

companies than the rest of the market 

and a good idea about the triggers 

which will release the value.” 

Out in sleepy Stavanger, on the West 

Coast of Norway, SKAGEN fund managers 

are thousands of miles from the rumours 

and bar-talk of London and New 

York. The isolation helps them maintain 

their contrarian outlook and prevents 

them from getting swept up in investment 

groupthink. It also contributes to 

what is a very Nordic success story.


An unlikely 

Nordic success story 

The old maxim that common sense is not that common, does not 

hold true in Stavanger. Here on the often stormy West Coast of 

Norway, there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing. 

It is a unique, pragmatic place, where the traditional industries of 

shipping, fishing and oil engender the kind of long-term thinking 

which naturally helps legislate against cyclical markets.

Illustration: Per Dybvig 

Founding father and inspiration behind SKAGEN’s investment philosophy, Kristoffer Stensrud 

Stavanger is also an entrepreneurial 

place, however. So it should be no 

surprise that it was here in 1993 that 

four business friends and long-term 

finance-industry veterans - Tor Dagfinn 

Veen, Kristoffer Stensrud, Åge Westbø 

and Geir Tjetland - decided to take on 

the big Norwegian banks and create 

their own fund management firm. 

All the founders remain active players 

in SKAGEN, and are as attached to their 

West Coast home and Nordic sensibilities 

as they ever were. Then, as now, 

it was the investing genius and philosophical 

approach of Stensrud, which 

propelled the company forward. 

Swedish business magazine Dagens 

Industri, describes Stensrud as the 

Equity Hippie (“Aktiehippien”). With his 

ponytail, sockless feet, and interest in 

Feng Shui he cuts an unlikely figure as 

an international investor. But it is his 

unusual approach to life which his colleagues 

believe allows him to recognise 

the qualities in companies which others 

do not or cannot. He is regarded in the 

company as the “Syvende Far” 

– a Norwegian fairytale character, 

loosely translated as the founding 

father. 

And while there were months at the 

beginning when the founders did not 

take a salary, Stensrud’s concentration 

on undervalued, unpopular and under- 

researched stocks meant clients were 

still getting hefty returns. But that was 

never quite enough for Stensrud. As 

a child of a family of hoteliers, it had 

always irked him that the finance 

industry did not have the same attachment 

to client servicing and open 

communication, as the hospitality 

market did. He sought therefore to also 

put this at the centre of the company’s 

ambitious vision: to become the world’s 

best fund management company 

measured in terms of risk adjusted 

returns, service, and client communication. 

Now, almost 20 years later, with assets 

under management of €12 billion, 35% 

of the Norwegian equity fund market 

and a growing market share in Sweden, 

Denmark, the UK and the Netherlands, 

SKAGEN can hardly be described as 

a small player. But with its measured 

international growth, it remains a global 

minnow. Ironically, however, the philosophical 

attachment to open communication 

and transparency, conceived 

out in this financial backwater, actually 

puts the company in the vanguard of 

financial good practice. 

With the current hostility to baffling 

financial products, SKAGEN believes 

that its straightforward, plain vanilla 

equity funds are a refreshing change. As 

Westbø says, “This is all we do. And we 

only offer funds which we would be 

happy to invest in ourselves.” The 

decision to publish the entire holdings 

of each of SKAGEN’s funds each month 

as well as the business case behind any 

new acquisitions, means clients can 

always be confident about where there 

money is going and how it is performing. 

And SKAGEN’s focus on maintaining 

its own distribution network with 

competent client advisors means that 

the company’s 160 000 or so direct 

clients can be sure of receiving close 

and professional service and follow-up. 

In response to client demands rather 

than any plan for world domination, 

SKAGEN has gently pushed out into 

new markets. Less than 50% of its 

client base is now in Norway (see 

graph). But the owners are clear that as 

the company expands internationally 

it will retain that same common sense 

Norwegian philosophy that has served 

it so well in the past. 

MEASURED INTERNATIONAL GROWTH 

Netherlands 8% 

Denmark 6% 

Sweden 28% 

UK 7% 

Others 4% 

More than half of SKAGEN’s assets now come from 

outside of Norway 

Norway 47%


Common sense: Our common sense investment 

philosophy has provided consistent returns and 

outperformance since we started in 1993 

SKAGEN: the facts 

�� 

regulated from Norway 

�� 

�� 

�� 

�� 

offices in Norway, Sweden, Denmark, UK and the 

Netherlands 

The art of common sense 

�� 

and three money market funds 

�� 

broad global mandates 

�� 

Sweden, Finland, Iceland, Luxembourg, 

the Netherlands, the United Kingdom and 

Switzerland. 

Important Information: 

All performance figures included in this article are measured in EUR net of fees and updated as of 30 September 2011. There are no subscription or 

redemption fees when investing directly with SKAGEN Funds. Historical returns are no guarantee for future returns. Future returns will depend, inter alia, 

on market developments, the fund manager’s skill, the fund’s risk profile and subscription and management fees. The return may become negative as 

a result of negative price developments. Fund performance may vary considerably within one year. Gains or losses for individual unit holders will therefore 

depend on the exact timing of the subscription and redemption of units. This article is not intended as a recommendation with respect to the purchase or 

sale of any particular investment. SKAGEN’s funds cannot be distributed to investors subject to US jurisdiction including investors resident in or taxable to 

the USA. The management company SKAGEN AS is under the supervision of The Financial Supervisory Authority of Norway (www.finanstilsynet.no) 

SKAGEN Offices: 

Stavanger, Bergen, Oslo, 

Trondheim, Ålesund, Tønsberg, 

Copenhagen, Stockholm, 

Gothenburg, Amsterdam 

and London. 

HARALD ESPEDAL, SKAGEN Funds chief executive and investment director, 

sums up what he believes lies behind SKAGEN’s success 

Alignment: Our performance fee structure ensures 

a commonality of interest with our clients and our 

portfolio managers co-invest a lot of their personal 

wealth in the funds they manage 

Independence: We are owned by our founders and key 

employees and are independent of any financial 

institution. We therefore have the freedom to choose 

what is best for our clients in the long term 

www.skagenfunds.com 

Keys to successful fund management 

Location: We are located far from the world’s 

financial centres and are able to think and act in an 

independent and contrarian manner 

Simplicity: Our sole business is fund management. 

We only have a few simple products and focus on 

quality over quantity 

Global orientation: We operate in a global investment 

universe with broad mandates 

Transparency: We strive to provide open, honest 

and timely communication to our clients at all times

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Special advertising supplement 

This issue: Nordic information technology / 

Innovation through technology 

» SINTEF ICT: 

Fresh Air in Space 

�� 

�� 

As a child, Atle Honne read everything he could 

find about the stars. Half a century later, parts of his 

professional life’s work was heading for the skies. 

Honne is a senior research scientist at SINTEF 

ICT, a contract research organisation in Norway. 

In August 2007, the “Endeavour” space shuttle left 

Earth with the result of his research as part of the 

cargo; gas measurement equipment and software 

for monitoring astronauts’ “indoor” climate. 

The idea of this measurement system, known as 

ANITA, is monitoring the air quality on board the 

SINTEF ICT is a business area in SINTEF, 

the largest independent contract research 

organisation in Scandinavia. 

SINTEF ICT offers research-based top level 

expertise and technology in the fields of 

Information Systems and Computational 

Software, Control and Communication 

Systems, and Micro- and Sensor Systems. 

We create value for our customers by 

developing sustainable solutions, products 

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customers. The aim of our 300 employees is 

research – innovation – commercialization 

to the benefit of industry and society. 

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in EU’s Framework Programme. Among the 

projects is “Internet of Energy for Electric 

Mobility” where SINTEF ICT, coordinator 

of the consortium, is contributing to the 

development of Europe’s future 

transportation system. 

International Space Station (ISS) to prevent that 

astronauts are exposed to unhealthy, toxic or 

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COMPLEX MIXTURES 

“ANITA has shown that it is possible to measure 

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purification system. During its year in space 

ANITA has shown that the system “sees” gases 

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Honne. 

ANITA identifies gases by means of an optical 

system that “sees” infrared light. Honne has 

developed the methods used to interpret ANITA’s 

measurements, providing much faster and more 

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the individual components of a gas mixture. 

CAN ALSO BE USED ON EARTH 

ANITA is the result of a cooperative project 

between SINTEF and the German company 

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“For SINTEF, the aerospace industry is interesting 

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measuring method passes through the needle’s 

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on Earth. The methodology used in ANITA can 

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aircraft, laboratories and other environments 

where such control is important,” explains Honne. 

The methodology is also suitable for monitoring 

industrial processes and environmental emissions. 

henrik@bedriftprofilen.no – www.bedriftprofilen.no 

Senior scientist Atle Honne in a “space-suit” at the 

Norwegian Space Centre in Oslo. (Photo: SINTEF/ 

Geir Mogen) 

PRESTIGIOUS AWARD 

As the leader of SINTEF’s ANITA team, Honne 

was awarded the prestigious “SAE Wright Brothers 

Medal” in 2011. SINTEF’s work on ANITA was 

performed under the auspices of ESA (European 

Space Agency), and was supported by the 

Norwegian Space Centre. 

SINTEF is currently developing an enhanced 

version of ANITA, aiming at making ANITA part 

of the standard equipment of the ISS. 

��www.sintef.no

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standard software suites from leading manufacturers 

like Visma and QlikView, while also developing 

and supplying their own applications. Hence, 

Amesto Solutions covers the entire value chain, 

including ERP, CRM, payroll, business 

intelligence and more. 

“Retaining flexibility has become paramount to 

growth and success. This is one of the most sought 

after features in today’s dynamic business environment. 

We are confident that software vendors who 

can provide businesses with an unlimited degree 

of flexibility will be tomorrow’s winners. We’re 

way past the time of rigid contracts with lock-ins 

and stern regulations,” adds Kaasa. 

Amesto Solutions is a Nordic company with 

offices in Sweden, Denmark and Norway. It highlights 

its cross-border reach combined with local 

availability as one of its key selling points. 

��www.amestosolutions.no


» HR Manager AS: 

In 2003, two experienced HR professionals, Lars 

Christian Ringdal and Oddbjørn Elgstøen, formed 

HR Manager AS, one of Scandinavia’s leading 

suppliers of recruitment solutions. Since then, 

the company has grown rapidly, and in addition to 

their head office in Oslo and subsidiaries in 

Denmark and Sweden, they have partners in 

several countries worldwide. 

– Right from the start it’s been important for us to 

develop a recruitment solution that is easy to use 

for all, both candidates, recruiters and managers. 

Based on the feedback from our customers, 

and our continuous development of the Talent 

Recruiter, I think it’s fair to say that we have 

» HR Manager AS was established in 2003 

and is based in Oslo, Norway 

» One of Scandinavia’s leading suppliers of 

recruitment solutions 

» Offices in Sweden, Denmark, Finland, 

Ireland, India, Germany, Poland and the 

Baltic countries 

» Over 400 Nordic customers in both the 

private and public sectors 

» Talent Recruiter is available in 12 languages 

and HR Manager offers support in all 

of them 

CONTACT INFORMATION 

DENMARK Email: info@hr-manager.dk 

Tel: +45 72 44 06 44 

NORWAY Email: info@hr-manager.net 

Tel: +47 24 11 29 20 

SWEDEN Email: info@hr-manager.se 

Tel: +46 8 506 361 70 

Lars Christian Ringdal and Oddbjørn Elgstøen, founders of HR Manager AS. 

The Talent 

Recruiter 

Based upon extensive experience within Human Resources, 

HR Manager AS supplies your company with recruitment 

�� 

The company is behind Talent Recruiter, which allows 

HR professionals to conduct recruitment processes with 

�� 

achieved our goal, says Lars Christian Ringdal, 

CEO and co-founder of HR Manager. 

SIMPLIFIES THE RECRUITMENT PROCESS 

More than 400 companies in the Nordic countries 

currently use their most popular solution, the 

Talent Recruiter. In addition, the solution is used 

in over 50 countries around the world. Some of 

the key benefits to the innovative system are that 

it automates the application process, and 

simplifies the communication with the candidates. 

– Talent Recruiter establishes a database where 

you can invite registered candidates to apply for 

new positions, search and share information about 

them, and progress more easily between recruiters, 

says Partner and co-founder of HR Manager, 

Oddbjørn Elgstøen. 

MORE THAN A RECRUITMENT SOLUTION 

In the last few years, there has been a major 

change in the use of the solution. To satisfy the 

demand for using Talent Recruiter in other ways 

than recruiting, HR Manager AS has developed 

several Talent Management modules that are 

compatible with the system. 

– Our customers are both large and medium sized 

businesses, and numerous of them have used 

Talent Recruiter for several years. They have seen 

the potential of using it in other areas as well, and 

with our help this is now possible, says Ringdal. 

– From being just a recruitment tool, our Talent 

Management modules can now be used for the 

full employment life cycle. This includes updating 

employment contracts, adding staff’s extended 

education and skills, and other assessment solu- 

tions. Our solutions are also very compatible and 

can be easily integrated with other HR systems, 

adds Elgstøen. 

CLOSE RELATIONSHIP WITH NORDEA 

Nordea Sweden has used Talent 

Recruiter since 2006, and the 

system is now a vital part of the 

HR department. 

Jakob Scherwin, 

HR Partner at 

Nordea Sweden. 

– We’ve had a close relationship 

with HR Manager for five years, 

and it has been very successful. 

Talent Recruiter is easy to 

handle and understand, both 

for those who apply and ourselves, 

says Jakob Scherwin, 

HR Partner at Nordea Sweden. 

– Talent Recruiter is an excellent tool in more 

than one way. We are able to give automatic 

replies to all candidates and the “Document 

generator” makes it possible for us to upload all 

registered data about a hired candidate, and 

automatically include them in the employment 

contract. The solution also gives us the 

opportunity to store all contract changes during 

the employment phase, he says. 

– I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend HR Manager 

and Talent Recruiter to everyone who needs a 

reliable and compatible recruitment system, 

concludes Scherwin. 

��www.hr-manager.net


» IPnett: 

Freedom of communication 

Today’s employees expect to be 

able to access a number of 

different communication 

platforms and applications, using 

their preferred devices, from 

�� 

causes major challenges for the 

company and it’s existing infra� 

�� 

in delivering secure and flexible 

solutions that meets the new 

�� 

– What we offer is freedom of communication for 

the employee, without compromising company 

security. Our Unified Communications solutions 

attend to employees’ growing demand for flexibility 

and availability, making their working day easier 

while simultaneously solving the challenges this 

offers within IT infrastructure, says IPnett CEO 

Norway, Jan Søgaard. 

PLATFORM INDEPENDENT 

Desktop phones, cell phones, email, chat clients, 

video conferences, Skype, Facebook, Google+, 

Twitter – the number of different communications 

platforms available is increasing rapidly. 

And – as many have experienced – different clients 

don’t always communicate too well with each 

other. Some companies have tried to solve this by 

enforcing stricter rules and proprietary solutions 

within their organizations. IPnett, however, does 

not believe this is the way forward: 

– People will increasingly want to use their own 

chosen communication devices, and be able to 

About IPnett: 

» Offices: Oslo, Stavanger, Stockholm, 

København 

» Employees: 100 

» Annual turnover: NOK 246 mill. 

» Established: 1999 

Book a meeting with us 

– and win an iPad! 

Tel: +47 67 20 11 60 

Web: ipnett.com/UC 

SMS: Send IPnett til 1933 

– IPnett offer freedom of communication for the 

employee, without compromising company 

security, says (l-r) Director of Sales and Innovation 

Marius Brekke, Chief Architect Knut Arne Nygård 

and CEO Norway, Jan Søgaard. Avaya Flare 

(inserted) is one such solution. 

access sensitive information from their private 

devices, be it iPads, smartphones or PCs. Some of 

our competitors believe in limiting all employees 

to using certain products and platforms. But we 

don’t believe that proprietary solutions are the 

future of effective communications. At IPnett, we 

constantly look for ways to create an integrated 

communications infrastructure across networks, 

organizations and applications – independently of 

platform, says Marius Brekke, IPnett Director of 

Sales and Innovation. 

– This independency is important when 

working within a field as unpredictable as IT 

Communications. Customers should be able to 

employ new solutions and scale their systems easily 

and on short notice. Trends are hard to predict, 

and development is increasingly user-driven. This 

is a big challenge for IT Managers, Chief Architect 

Knut Arne Nygård points out. 

DEMANDING CUSTOMERS 

IPnett cooperates with major international providers 

of Unified Communications, among them Avaya. 

With a Nordic scope on their business strategy, 

IPnett provides solutions for both the public and 

private sector in Norway, Sweden and Denmark. 

– We have many demanding customers with 

complex and extensive communications needs, 

both internally and externally, and across several 

channels. We help them find the right solutions 

for integrating all this. Everyone should be able to 

join a video conference from anywhere, using any 

device they choose, Brekke says. 

– Today, the split between people’s private and 

professional lives’ is gradually being erased. People 

want access to documents and applications at any 

time, and user behavior is changing rapidly. We 

have just seen the beginning of a user driven 

communication revolution. IPnett delivers 

solutions that prepare companies for the future 

in a seamless and secure manner. In this way, our 

customers are able to give their employees the 

freedom to be creative, while maintaining corporate 

control, CEO Jan Søgaard concludes. 

��www.ipnett.com


Onsoft Computer Systems AS is expanding 

These are exciting times for 

�� 

its recent acquisition of Emisoft, 

OCS, a leader in management 

systems for the shipping and 

�� 

customers even better able to 

meet the requirements they face 

�� 

“Increasing our customers ‘compliance’ 

capability, i.e. their ability to meet all the 

regulatory requirements they face, is essential 

to our business,” says Hans Petter Torsvik CEO 

in OCS and Emisoft. 

Torsvik is referring to the very extensive and 

complex regulations that shipping and offshore 

customers must deal with. This includes flag 

state regulations, national regulatory requirements, 

plus a variety of certification, STCW and 

IMO requirements, to name a few. 

“The acquisition is in line with our ambition 

to grow and become an even more complete 

supplier of advanced niche solutions. Now we 

cover the environmental requirements and our 

customers need for sustainability reporting 

solutions. Emisoft will provide us with 

expertise in all environmental aspects. In the 

future it will be essential for our customers to 

be able to efficiently report and document how 

they conduct their business in a traceable, 

sustainable and compliant manner. We see a lot 

Facts OCS/Emisoft: 

» 90 employees with main office in 

Bergen 

» Expected revenues in 2011: between 

NOK 90 and 100 million. 

» Subsidiaries in Sweden and India 

» Regional offices in Ålesund and 

Stavanger 

» Partners in Singapore, Manila, 

Copenhagen, Aberdeen, Serbia 

and USA 

“Increasing our customers ‘compliance’ capability, i.e. their ability to meet all the regulatory requirements 

they face, is essential to our business,” says Hans Petter Torsvik CEO in OCS and Emisoft. 

of synergies in product development, crosssales 

and marketing.” 

MEETING MORE AND MORE DEMANDS 

“Our customers do business in a complex world 

where the amount of requirements is increasing 

all the time. They must therefore be confident 

that they are ‘compliant’ and that they can 

document this in a traceable and sustainable 

manner.” 

Nearly thirty years of experience and over 200 

customers in 38 countries have made OCS 

software a market leader. Through its software, 

OCS HR, OCS Maisy and OCS PreMasterPro, 

OCS offers optimal solutions for HR, payroll, 

asset management, maintenance and operation 

of ships. 

“Our software enables our clients to provide 

optimal planning and operation of all activities 

relating to recruitment, staffing, competence 

management, training and travel planning. Our 

solutions are integrated with the leading 

course- and travel providers such as Falck 

Nutec, OilComp, SeaGull, Mintra, Instone and 

Via Flyspesialisten. These solutions enable our 

customers to save millions of NOK each year.” 

OUR BEST AMBASSADORS 

Capable customers who know what they want 

have been crucial in OCS’s development from 

a supplier with revenues of approx. NOK 10 

million 10 years ago to nearly NOK 100 million 

in 2011. 

“Through active dialogue, requirements and 

needs, they help us to continue to develop our 

solutions so that they become even more complete 

and efficient.” 

Torsvik is very clear on the two main reasons 

for the company’s success in the demanding 

markets. “Satisfied customers are our best 

ambassadors, and our staff is dedicated and 

highly skilled.” 

��www.emisoft.com��www.onsoft.no

» DSG Systems AS: 

Bagdrop 

DSG Systems has developed a fully 

automated baggage drop that simplifies 

�� 

�� 

easy and natural reducing the waiting 

time and improving the general 

�� 

The baggage drop solution is 

delivered in modules that improve 

flexibility during installation and 

maintenance. The solution is fully 

customizable to meet design and 

regulatory requirements while 

maximizing usability and safety. 

The efficiency of the solution is 

improved by minimizing the need 

for check-in personnel to do routine 

tasks. Verifying automatically the 

baggage tag, dimensions and weight 

improves the quality of the check-in 

process. 

Check-in statistical and status information 

is provided continually for 

improving the check-in process. Our 

vast experience in baggage handling 

systems allows us to integrate the 

solution in existing and new terminals, 

and provide innovations with 

the use of available technology. 


Challenges: 

» Cope with a continuous 

increase of passengers 

» Overcome terminal 

expanding limitations 

» Reduce operational costs 

» Improve passenger 

experience 

Key benefits: 

» Increase the efficiency of 

the check-in area by 

improving the capacity of 

the passengers to selfcheck-in 

» Reduce operating costs 

by minimizing the needs 

of check-in staff for 

routine tasks 

��www.dsg-systems.no


» Merit Globe AS: 

Despite financial recession in 

many European countries, the 

Norwegian business application 

company Merit Globe has signifi� 

cantly increased their European 

�� 

offers a cost effective tool that 

�� 

efficient and contributes to sub� 

�� 

Investing in knowledge 

Merit Globe AS: 

» 270 employees in 7 European countries 

» Revenue NOK 202 million 

(Est. 2011, NOK 290 million) 

» Offers business solutions from 

Lawson M3, Jeeves and Dynamics CRM 

» Offers their own software: the Merit 

Application Suite 

» Knowledgeable and senior consultants 

Managing director Erik Outzen and marketing 

manager Lena Lundell are recruiting new 

consultants as part of a significant European 

expansion. 

The company delivers business solutions software 

(ERP and CRM, including Event Management) 

and their own developed software, the Merit 

Application Suite, to some defined industries: 

manufacturing, distribution & retail, food & 

beverage, service & rental and fashion. The 

common denominator for the Merit Group clients 

is complex needs related to value chain management, 

typically including orders, logistics and 

distribution. 

�� 

The Merit Group offers industry-specific and 

tailor-made business solutions based on renowned 

ERP and CRM software solutions like Lawson M3, 

Jeeves, Microsoft Dynamics CRM, in addition to 

self-developed software that optimize the use and 

utilization of these systems. The Merit Application 

Suite makes your business processes run more 

smoothly and gives your business a competitive 

advantage according to managing director Erik 

Outzen in the Merit Group. 

“We are the market leaders and specialized within 

certain business segments where we have large 

and leading companies on our client lists. They 

require first-rate solutions and project management 

services. Many of our clients are in the 

building material industry or the food industry,” 

says Outzen. 

EUROPEAN EXPANSION 

The Merit Group has experienced voluminous 

growth the past three years and with offices in 

Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Germany, 

The successful 

consultancy 

company has 

experienced an 

impressive 

growth the past 

three years. 

United Kingdom and Switzerland, the successful 

company is now entering new markets and countries. 

The number of employees and the revenue figure 

has doubled every year for the past three years. 

“Our profit margins are healthy in spite of a fairly 

aggressive investment rate. We also grow organically, 

not only through our acquisitions – which 

are made without outside funding. We develop 

and improve the companies we acquire. Our 

challenge now is to recruit people that satisfy 

our qualifications standards in order to handle 

the increased demand and market expansion,” 

explains Outzen. 

The company has a knowledge-based approach to 

success and only recruits people with extensive 

experience within their core business. The average 

seniority in the Merit Group is 15 years. 

EXPERTISE AND LOCAL PRESENCE 

“Our recruiting strategy is to hire local professionals 

that speak the language and meet with our 

high competence standards. This is the recipe for 

a good customer experience, which is our primary 

focus. Many companies are hesitant to make 

changes even though they are aware of the fact 

that their systems are outdated or there is room 

for improvement. Our professional teams always 

aim to make these processes as smooth as possible, 

leaving the customer with a healthier and more 

efficient business,” concludes Outzen. 

��www.meritglobe.com

» NGI: 


Attracting experts 

from around the world 

Norwegian Geotechnical Institute 

(NGI) is a leading international 

centre for research and consulting 

�� 

centre of NGI are world class 

�� 

�� 

Natural hazards such as landslides, avalanches, 

earthquakes and tsunamis continuously pose new 

challenges to the geosciences. So too does offshore 

development in ultra deep waters, the remediation 

of contaminated sediments, the development 

of offshore wind energy foundations and the 

increased need for underground infrastructure 

in urban areas. The world is asking for quick 

answers. At NGI research is the key to development 

of innovative and cost-effective solutions to 

these challenges. 

TOP OF ITS FIELD NATIONALLY AND 

INTERNATIONALLY 

Although NGI has been internationally recognized 

and acclaimed from its beginning, the organization 

has come far from primarily being considered 

a national research centre. “When the international 

offshore industry needed expert advice on 

sea bottom stability in the Gulf of Mexico, they 

came to us,” says Dr. Lars Andresen, the new 

Managing Director of NGI from January 2012. He 

is succeeding Dr. Suzanne Lacasse, who has held 

that position since 1991. She wanted to concentrate 

on scientific tasks, and will continue her 

work at NGI. 

Each year, NGI carries out project assignments 

in more than 25 countries – for example tunnel 

excavation in the Himalayas, and biochars project 

in Indonesia to sequester CO 2 . In addition to 

research and advisory work in Norway and abroad, 

NGI serves as Norway’s national centre for geoexpertise, 

cooperates with many international 

research organisations, and participates in 

numerous expert panels. 

�� 

NGI continuously strive at recruiting the best 

researchers and dedicated engineers, both new 

Converting research into practice motivates NGI employees”, says Lars Andresen, the new Managing 

Director of NGI from January 2012, in front of their famous laboratory. 

graduates and specialists with experience. 

Annually NGI receives numerous enquiries for 

post-doctoral assignments and guest researcher 

positions within the geosciences. In many cases, 

a temporary research assignment turns into a 

permanent relocation. 

COMPETENCE – THE REASON FOR 

NGI’S SUCCESS 

“New graduates quickly tend to find valuable 

advice from generous NGI-colleagues and become 

key contributors to NGI’s reputation”, Andresen 

says. ”And our employees are clearly NGI’s most 

significant competitive advantage”, he adds. 

To maintain this advantage, the organisation puts 

an emphasis on further developing their expertise. 

Through its research stipend fund, NGI can offer 

sabbatical leaves to its employees. One NGI 

employee spent a year as a guest researcher at 

BRGM in France and another one seven months 

at the UC Berkeley, to mention just two examples. 

“Working with world leading experts and seeing 

the results achieved in each project is what makes 

NGI so exciting”, Andresen concludes. 

NGI, the Norwegian Geotechnical Institute, 

was founded in 1953. NGI employs 210 

people, of which over 25 % are of non- 

Norwegian origin, with over 30 countries 

represented among its employees. 

The private foundation provides research 

and advisory services to both private and 

public clients, in Norway and abroad. Each 

year, NGI carries out project assignments in 

more than 25 countries. NGI also welcomes 

about 40 research visitors every year. 

��www.ngi.no


» �� 

Cloud backup and 

data protection 

booming 

As the world is becoming increasingly digital, 

�� 

�� 

Company offers both qualified advice and the 

�� 

“Backup isn’t the real concern. 

Restoring normal business is,” says 

C.O.O. Ole Halvor Svenkerud at The 

Online Backup Company. 

SKYROCKETING NEED 

When the company was founded in 

November 2005, the two entrepreneurs 

Alexander Hagerup and Lasse 

Øien were quite forward-thinking 

as to what would come to be a vital 

business need in the future. They 

created the best cloud backup 

service possible whilst strategically 

builing a knowledge-hub and a 

strong sales organization, 

resulting in an average growth of 

90–100 percent each year. 

The company provides a partner 

program where they enable more 

than 450 IT resellers in Scandinavia 

to sell their cloud backup services. 

The company has also moved into 

larger and more complex segments, 

serving customers such as the 

shipping company Frontline. 

“We have ambitions to expand our 

business rapidly outside of Norway. 

We have already entered the Swedish 

market. Next steps are reinforcing 

our Swedish organization and to 

establish ourselves in Germany,” says 

Svenkerud who believes the international 

potential to be huge. 

�� 

The company has been a security 

advocate since the beginning, 

working closely with the trade 

organization to introduce improved 

security standards for backup procedures. 

They were the first Norwegian 

company to be certified according 

to CTRL – an online backup security 

standard legislated by Norwegian 

trade organization IKT Norge. 

“Secure backup routines have always 

been our number one focus. We know 

how devastating the alternative can be. 

Eighty percent of businesses that lose 

all digital data due to damages actually 

go bankrupt,” explains Svenkerud. 

The online backup company: 

» Expected revenue 2011: 55–60 million NOK 

» Gaselle 2010 

» Number 10 on Deloitte’s IT list FAST 50 for IT, Telco, Media and 

Biotech in Norway 

» On Deloitte’s FAST 500 in the EMEA region 

» 33 employees in Norway 

» More than 4000 Norwegian customers 

The future looks bright. Secure cloud backup solutions are the future, states 

C.O.O. Ole Halvor Svenkerud. 

�� 

One company that experienced a 

near-catastrophe was the consulting 

company Orbion Consulting. During 

an office fire in 2009, an agreement 

with the Online Backup Company 

signed only a few months prior to 

the incident saved the company’s 

vital digital data. 

“The fire lasted for two days”, says 

Martin Sode Nielsen at Orbion 

Consulting. “We lost a lot of important 

paper documents, but fortunately 

all our digital data was saved and we 

were able to continue our projects 

with our clients as normal. This 

would not have been possible had 

we not signed this agreement that 

secured another physical data 

storage location.” 

More business managers should ask 

themselves the following question 

according to Svenkerud: “What happens 

if all our digital information is 

gone tomorrow?” 

“Our strength is that we offer both a 

secure outsourcing solution and can 

offer qualified advice for that particular 

company’s needs. It’s really a 

low cost investment if you consider 

the critical consequences of not 

having adequate backup solutions in 

place,” he concludes. 

��www.onlinebackupcompany.no

» �� 

“What makes us different from many other 

consultancy firms is the fact that we always work 

on the client’s side of the table and that we are 

involved throughout the process to ensure success 

in all stages of a project,” claims managing director 

of A-2 in Norway, Sigurd Skjæveland. 

WIDE AND SPECIALIZED KNOWLEDGE 

The company, situated in Oslo and Copenhagen, 

employs both consultants that are almost fresh out 

About A-2: 

» Established in 2001 

» 60 consultants in Oslo and Copenhagen 

» Offers industry expertise within the 

following arenas: 

� �� 

� �� 

� �� 

� �� 

� �� 

Oslo 

Drammensveien 123, 

P.O. Box 468 Skøyen, NO-0213 Oslo 

Tel: +47 22 55 04 77 

www.a-2.as 

Copenhagen 

Linde Allé 5A, DK-2850 Nærum 

Tel: + 45 39 40 41 00 

www.a-2.dk 

of college with attractive specializations or very 

experienced consultants with as much as 25–30 

years of both corporate and consulting experience 

from a wide variety of fields. The client teams are 

put together based on the specific needs of each 

individual project case. 

“Our strongest competitive advantage is our 

ability to make realistic evaluations of a project’s 

feasibility. Sometimes we advise the client to 

adjust their ambition level to avoid failure or limit 

the possible negative consequences of a project,” 

explains Skjæveland. 

The company’s impressive client portfolio includes 

leading companies and large organizations within 

public and private sector in the Nordic countries. 

However, small and medium sized businesses are 

also among their clients and the scope of projects 

varies from very comprehensive to advice given 

during a single telephone conversation or 

meeting. 

“We always give honest advice based on our 

privilege of experience and with the client’s best 

interest in mind. We have a stable client portfolio 

with a high degree of re-purchase. The success of 

our clients is the best measure of our success,” says 

Skjæveland. 

�� 

Most business areas are under pressure to conduct 

projects involving change or adaption at some 

level, mostly in order to become more efficient or 

reduce costs. The A-2 consultants assist companies 

with identifying areas of improvement and 


The A-2 consultants combine professional expertise and wide-ranging 

project experience in order to ensure high quality solutions for their clients. 

From the left: Parisa Yousefi, Bjørn Berg Børresen, Henriette Dan Solberg 

og Bent Gjøstøl. 

Success 

through quality 

The relative success or failure of a project often 

depends on the quality assurance done prior to 

�� 

expertise and valuable experience in order to 

�� 

realizing goals. The company also offers expertise 

within the area of procurement processes. 

“The demand for this type of competence is large 

and steadily increasing. Very few businesses have 

adequate competence or resources themselves 

and often need project management assistance, 

which plays a vital role in achieving success. Being 

able to make adjustments throughout the project 

in order to keep it on track is very important, and 

it is often easier to identify the necessary critical 

decisions as an outsider,” explains managing 

director of A-2 in Denmark, Lars Rasmussen. 

IT TRACK RECORD 

The A-2 consultants have participated in the 

implementation of some of the largest and most 

complex IT-projects in the Nordic countries 

and have priceless experience from all stages of 

a project, ranging from strategic objectives to 

opera¬tional and administrative aspects. 

“In brief, we safeguard the entire process, 

ensuring that the right content is delivered to 

the right time to the right price,” concludes both 

Rasmussen and Skjæveland. 

www.a-2.as / www.a-2.dk


» Cambi: 

Improving the ecological balance 

Converting biodegradable waste 

into renewable energy is the 

solution to fundamental 

challenges in a world where the 

�� 

Norwegian advanced technology 

and cutting edge expertise is 

being exported to large cities 

�� 

“Cambi is a company in growth within a 

prospering field. We are enthusiastic about our 

mission and clients welcome our solutions. We 

really feel that we make a difference,” states CEO 

Berit Gjellan in Cambi, a company that offer the 

most sustainable solutions within recycling of 

biodegradable waste products. 

IMITATING NATURE 

The company creates value from both industrial 

and household waste and sewage sludge that 

otherwise might be harmful if left untreated on 

the local landfill. The biological energy conversion 

results in biogas, which is one of the best fuel 

alternatives out there, according to Gjellan. 

“Biogas is very suitable as fuel for vehicles, with 

a clean combustion it produces less hazardous 

particles and fumes,” she says and continues: “We 

have patented a process that imitates the planet’s 

own process of converting biological material into 

fuel gas. We speed it up by using high pressure 

and temperatures. This treatment has several 

advantages, one of them is high conversion rates 

into renewable energy,” 

The patented treatment creates more gas than 

other techniques and the heat the solid residue is 

exposed to make it safe to use as a fertilizer. Thus, 

this process contributes to a vital recycling of 

important nutrients, such as phosphorus, which is 

a limited resource on this planet. 

Early last summer, Cambi signed a turnkey 

contract with the municipality of Oslo to build 

their food waste processing plant. “This will be 

a new showcase for our technology for advanced 

bioenergy conversion from waste to biogas and 

fertilizer,” Gjellan ads. 

THINK BIG 

The company delivers world-leading expertise 

within the field and the reason for its note- 

Cambi’s personnel combine high professional level with a pleasant and relaxed working environment, 

here from left, Harald Kleiven (business developing manager biosolids), Berit Gjellan (CEO), Andrea S. 

Mellbye (process engineer) and Wojtech Sargalski (business development manager biowaste). 

worthy success outside of Norway is simply scale 

economies. 

“In order to utilize the biogas in a sensible way, 

you need to build large plants. Preferably a 

combined sewage treatment and biowaste plant. 

This is a challenge when the responsibility for 

waste management and wastewater treatment 

traditionally are separated and in addition divided 

between different municipalities and industries. 

Collaboration is the solution, and a good example 

is the Ecopro facility in Mid-Norway where we 

built a turn-key plant treating both biowaste and 

sewage sludge from 51 municipalities,” says Gjellan. 

Cambi has also delivered turnkey solution plants 

to a series of large cities, like London, Santiago 

and Brussels. In total, the company has delivered 

25 treatment plants in 14 different countries. 

Eight of these plants are located in Scandinavia 

and nine plants are built in the UK. Cambi’s 

successful reputation is resulting in contracts 

throughout the world and Cambi just won a major 

contract at the world’s largest advanced wastewater 

treatment plant in Washington DC to secure 

better economy and to reduce the plant’s carbon 

footprint. 

INTERNATIONAL SIGNIFICANCE 

“Our process disrupts contamination cycles 

related to plants, animals and people. Renewable 

energy is created, making us less dependent of 

fossil energy sources. And finally agricultural land 

is enriched rather than deprived,” states Gjellan 

who wants to emphasize the fact that Cambi is 

continually working on further improving their 

state-of-the-art solutions in collaboration with a 

network of leading scientific experts in research 

institutes at universities in Norway, Sweden, 

Denmark and several other countries. 

Cambi: 


» Estimated turnover 2011: 

400 million NOK 

» Employed personnel: 80 

» World-leading within advanced anaerobic 

digestion technology 

» Has supplied 25 treatment plants in 

14 countries 

- recycling energy 

��www.cambi.no

» Active Business Solutions AS: 

When quality 

matters 

With Active Business Solutions your company is sure to get 

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Active Business Solutions is a Norwegian-Danish 

company that provides project management, 

consulting, implementation and development 

services in Microsoft Dynamics NAV. The 

company was formed in 2003 and has offices in 

both Norway and Denmark. 

» With Active Business 

Solutions your company 

is sure to get results. 

» Active Business Solutions 

has offices in both 

Norway and Denmark. 

Active Business Solutions: 


» Offices in Norway and Denmark 

» Fully owned by the employees 

» Wide range of customers from all over 

Scandinavia 

» Certified partner of Microsoft Dynamics 

NAV 

Dynamics NAV is one of Microsoft’s business 

solutions, which are available both in the European 

and the US market. Dynamics NAV streamlines 

your business and powers it with the flexibility it 

needs to adapt to new opportunities and growth. 

The solution has its origin in Denmark in the mid 

‘80’es. Microsoft has more than 1.000.000-licensed 

users. Dynamics NAV handles both small businesses 

and very large solutions with more than 1.500 

concurrent users. 

Active Business Solutions is a certified partner 

of Microsoft Dynamics NAV and has throughout 

the years steadily increased their market share 

in Scandinavia. All of the company’s consultants 

in Scandinavia have worked with the business 

solution for at least ten years, and their focus on 

quality has not gone by unnoticed by the market. 

– Before we agree on a deal with a new customer, 

we do a lot of preparations and make sure that we 

have the same level of expectations. It’s important 

for us that our customers obtain what they have 

been promised. This means that no changes are 

allowed to prices, delivery date, or quality after 

the deal is signed, says founder of Active Business 

Solutions, Jesper Messerschmidt. 

QUALITY FROM START TO FINISH 

Microsoft Dynamics NAV is easy to learn, easy to 

use and implements quickly. Information about 

manufacturing, supply chain management, sales 

and marketing, and project management is easily 

integrated and stored in the database (native 

or Microsoft SQL). Next version will only be 

available as a Microsoft SQL database. 

– Dynamics NAV includes everything you need to 

run and develop a successful business, no matter 

how specialised your business are, or where you 

are in the world, says Messerschmidt. 


Jesper Messerschmidt, Managing Director at 

Active Business Solutions. 

�� 

Active Business Solutions has developed several 

licensed add-on modules for Microsoft Dynamics 

NAV. One of the most spectacular solutions is an 

integrated module named Active Workflow. The 

module represents a step closer to the paperless 

offices, as it allows all types of documents to be 

scanned and processed into the programme. 

In 2010, The Norwegian Association of 

Researchers (Forskerforbundet) decided to 

centralise accounting for all local branches. They 

needed a system that could be integrated with 

their existing Dynamics NAV-solution, and handle 

central accounting, allowing for decentralized 

approval procedures. After a comprehensive study 

of different solutions, they chose Active Workflow. 

– Active Business Solutions proved to have an 

excellent understanding of our needs. Because 

Active Workflow is fully integrated solution with 

Microsoft Dynamics NAV, we avoided expensive 

third-party solutions, says legal advisor in The 

Norwegian Association of Researchers, Birgitte 

Olafsen. 

Journal management at the local branches is now 

fully web based, which allows all budget reporting 

and accounting to be channelled through the web 

portal. 

– Our partnership with Active Business Solutions 

has been a huge success. Their solution has turned 

out to be very cost effective for us, and their 

consultant’s performance through the project has 

been very satisfactory, ends Olafsen. 

��www.activebs.com

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DONNA 

� � �� 

Experience the Norwegian hospitality 

at Holmenkollen Park Hotel Rica! 

Th e perfect setting for all your needs, both 

private and professional. A First Class hotel 

meeting your demanding conference stan- 

dards, with capacity up to 750 persons, dedicated 

staff being there just for you, relaxed 

atmosphere and excellent dining. 

Take time to have fun and to spoil yourself 

on top of Oslo, in the hotel’s own SPA&Fitness 

center, or enjoy the closeness to nature. 

You will be in walking distance from the new 

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attractions, and only few minutes from the 

city center and the fj ord. 

Holmenkollen – for natural reasons 

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PHOTO: AIRBUS Airports, 

maps, fl eet 

& EuroBonus 

Follow in Scanorama’s tracks 

� LONDON Flights of fancy, page 23 

SAS takes you to London daily from Copenhagen, 

Stockholm and Oslo. 

� STOCKHOLM Oaxens fi rst stab at the city, page 25 

Stockholm-Arlanda Airport is SAS’s gateway to 

Sweden for fl ights from Europe, Asia and the USA. 

� GENEVA Living it up in Zermatt, page 28 

SAS takes you to Paris daily from Copenhagen, 


� ITALY Food Firenzy, page 29 

SAS takes you to Rome, Milan, Venice and Bologna. 

� BARCELONA Tomorrow's world, page 35 

SAS takes you to Barcelona from Copenhagen, 


� USA Pizza with attitude, page 35 

SAS takes you to New York, Washington and Chicago. 

� MUNICH Das auto, page 42 

SAS takes you to Munich from Copenhagen, 


� LONDON Jolly good shows, page 61 

SAS takes you to London daily from Copenhagen, 


� ITALY Grapes of wrath, page 68 

SAS takes you to Rome, Milan, Venice and 

Bologna. 

� NEW YORK Perfect Harvard, page 92 

SAS takes you to New York daily from and 

Copenhagen, Stockholm and Oslo. 

Book your trip at www.fl ysas.com 

or use your EuroBonus points starting 

at 12,000 points one way. 


Choose from 21,000 

daily departures 

SAS hub 

SAS Group destination 

(SAS, Blue1, Widerøe) 

Codeshare destination 

Star Alliance codeshare* partners 

Adria Airways 

Air Canada 

Air China 

ANA 

Austrian Airlines 

Blue1 

bmi 

Continental Airlines 

Croatia Airlines 

Egypt Air 

Ethiopian Airlines 

LOT Polish Airlines 

Lufthansa 

Singapore Airlines 

South African Airways 

Swiss International Air Lines 

Thai Airways International 

United Airlines 

Other codeshare* partners 

Aeroflot 

airBaltic 

Cimber Sterling 

City Airline 

Estonian Air 

Icelandair 

Ostfriesische Lufttransport GmbH 

Rossiya 

Kristiansund 

Skyways 

Widerøe 

Molde 

Ålesund 

Ørsta/Volda 

Bergen 

Sandane 

Førde 

Haugesund 

Stavanger 

Sogndal 

North Sea 

Kristiansand 

Hardangervidda 

Dovrefjell 

Karup 

DENMARK 

Jylland 

Billund 

Norwegian 

Sea 

NORWAY 

Skien 

Ålborg 

Fyn 

Sønderborg 

Glomma 

Røst 

Sjælland 

L o f o t e n 

Klarälven 

Vänern 

Halmstad 

Andenes 

Stokmarknes 

Svolvær 

Leknes 

Mo i Rana 

Sandnessjøen 

Mosjøen 

Brønnøysund 

Rørvik 

Namsos 

Trondheim 

Sandefjord 

Århus 

Oslo 

Copenhagen 

* When two airlines share the same flight, 

in order to make traveling easier 

For more information, visit 

GERMANY 

flysas.com Hamburg 

Göteborg 

Karlstad 

Helsingborg/ 

Ängelholm 

Malmö 

Rügen 

Bodo 

Indalsälven 

SWEDEN 

Vättern 

Jönköping 

Växjo 

Kristianstad 

Bornholm 

Tromso 

Åre/Östersund 

Harstad/Narvik 

Ronneby 

Narvik 

Dalälven 

Nordkapp 

Honningsvåg 

L a p l a n d 

NORDIC ROUTES 

Salpausselkä 

Kola 

Peninsula 


Hornavan 

Norrköping 

Öland 

Hasvik 

Umeälven 

Sundsvall/ 

Härnosand 

Kalmar 

Bardufoss 

Visby 

Gotland 

Sørkjosen 

Kiruna 

Torneälven 

Arctic Circle 

Luleälven 

Åland 

Baltic Sea 

POLAND 

Skellefteå 

Umeå 

Stockholm 

Gdansk 

Wisla 

Hammerfest 

Lakselv 

Alta 

Luleå 

Gulf of Bothnia 

Vaasa 

(Vasa) 

Kittilä 

Tampere 

(Tammerfors) 

Turku 

(Åbo) 

Hiiumaa 

Inari 

Saaremaa 

Palanga 

RUSSIA 

Mehamn 

Berlevåg 

Båtsfjord 

Vardø 

Rovaniemi 

Nemunas 

Oulujoki 

Vadsø 

Kuusamo 

Oulu (Uleaborg) 

FINLAND 

Päijänne 

Tallinn 

ESTONIA 

Riga 

Kirkenes 

LITHUANIA 

Haukivesi 

LATVIA 

Daugava 

Barents Sea 

RUSSIA 

Kuopio 

Helsinki 

(Helsingfors) 

Vilnius 

Saimaa 

Pielinen 

BELARUS 

St. Petersburg 

RUSSIA 

Minsk 

© 2005 LIBER AB. Stockholm, Sweden. December 2011

EUROPEAN ROUTES 

Reach 181 countries 

around the world 

SAS hub 





Adria Airways 

Air Canada 

Air China 

ANA 


Blue1 

bmi 



Egypt Air 



Lufthansa 







Aeroflot 

airBaltic 


City Airline 

Estonian Air 

Icelandair 


Rossiya 

Skyways 

Widerøe 




flysas.com 

Lisbon 

Rabat 

Oporto 

Tejo 

Malaga 

Reykjavik 

A t l a n t i c 

O c e a n 

PORTUGAL 

MOROCCO 

Madrid 

SPAIN 

ICELAND 

Edinburgh 

UNITED KINGDOM 

Belfast 

Newcastle 

Dublin 

REP. OF 

IRELAND Manchester 

Bay of Biscay 


Bilbao 

Ebro 

Alicante 

Faeroe Islands 

Glasgow 

East Midlands 

Birmingham 

Loire 

P y r e n ees 

ANDORRA 

Mallorca 

Aberdeen 

Algiers 

ALGERIA 

Orkney 

Islands 

Seine 

Rhone 

Palma de Mallorca 

Norwegian Sea 

Shetland 

Islands 

North Sea 

Rhine 

A l p s 

Bergen 

Stavanger 

NETHER- 

LANDS 

Kristiansand 

Tunis 

Hamburg 

Bremen 

Trondheim 

NORWAY 

Göteborg 

DENMARK 

Copenhagen 

Elbe 

Appenines 

Oslo 

SWEDEN 

London 

Amsterdam 

BELGIUM 

Hanover 

Berlin 

Brussels 

Dusseldorf 

GERMANY 

Paris 

LUXEM. 

Luxembourg 

Frankfurt 

Prague 

CZECH H 

Stuttgart 

REP. . 

FRANCE 

Linz 

Munich 

Vienna n 

Lyon 

Zurich LIECHT. 

SWITZERLAND 

Geneva 

AUSTRIA Graz 

Klagenfurt 

Ljubljana 

Marseille Nice 

Milan Po 

Bologna 

MONACO 

Zagreb 

SLOVENIA 

Venice CROATIAT 

Pula 

BOSNIA 

HERZEGO Z 

Florence SAN 

MARINO 

Split t 

Barcelona 

Corsica VATICAN 

STATE 

Rome 

ITALY 

Sardinia 

TUNISIA 

Arctic Circle 

MALTA 

Danube 

M e d i t e r r a n e a n S e 

Sicily 

Åre 

N 

e

Åre/Östersund 

na 

greb 

IA 

Bratislava 

Riga 

Thessaloniki 

Chania 

Carparthian Mts 

Minsk 

MOLDOVA 

Chisinau 

NIA AND 

EGO VINA 

Belgrade 

SERBIA 

Bucharest 

Sarajevo 

MONTE- 

NEGRO 

Dubrovnik Priština Sofia BULGARIA 

Podgorica 

KOSOVO 

Skopje 

Tirana MACEDONIA 

a 

Poznan 

Wroclaw 

Luleå 

Stockholm 

B a l t i c S e a 

Gdansk 

POLAND 

SLOVAKIA 

Budapest 

HUNGARY 

ALBANIA 

RUSSIA 

Palanga 

Warsaw 

FINLAND 

Helsinki 

(Helsingfors) 

ESTONIA 

Tallinn 

LATVIA 

LITHUANIA 

Vilnius 

ROMANIA 

GREECE 

Aegean 

Sea 

Athens 

Danube 

Lake 

Ladoga 

BELARUS 

Dnestr 

Heraklion 

Crete 

White Sea 

St. Petersburg 

Kos 

Kiev 

UKRAINE 

Istanbul 

Rhodes 

Rhodes 

Dnepr 

Volga 

R U S S I A 

Moscow 

Crimea 

Black Sea 

Ankara 

TURKEY 

CYPRUS 

Larnaca 

Beirut 

LEBANON 

Damaskus 

Caucasus Mts 

Tbilisi Baku 


Don 

SYRIA 

Volga 

GEORGIA 

KAZAKHSTAN 

ARMENIA 

Jerevan 

Caspian Sea 

IRAQ 

AZERBAIJAN 

IRAN 

Bagdad 


HEAD INTERCONTINENTAL ROUTES 

1,160 destinations 

around the world 

SAS hub 




R o c k y M o u n t a i n s 

Calgary 

Vancouver 

Seattle 

Portland 

Minneapolis 

Ottawa 

Detroit 

Cleveland Boston 

Denver 

San Francisco Las 

Indianapolis Pittsb. 

Vegas Kansas City 

Philadelphia 

Saint Louis 

Cincinnati 

Greensboro 

Los Angeles Phoenix Memphis Nashv. Raleigh 

Charlotte 

Dallas New Atlanta 

Austin Orleans Jacksonville 

Houston 

Orlando 

Tampa West Palm Beach 

Fort Lauderdale 

Miami 

Quebec 

Toronto Montréal 

UNITED STATES 

Halifax 

Chicago 

New York 

Washington D.C. 

Bermuda 

(UK.) 

BAHAMAS 

Tropic of Cancer 

Easter Is. 

(CHILE) 




flysas.com 

Arctic Circle 

Tropic of Capricorn 

Victoria 

Island 

C A N A D A 

MEXICO CUBA 

CHILE 

DOM. REP. 

A n d e s 

Baffin 

Island 

Puerto Rico 

St. John's 

Atlantic 

Ocean 

Greenland 

Reykjavik 

Longyearbyen 

Madeira 

MOROCCO 

Tenerife 

Canary Islands 

ALGERIA 

(SPAIN) Gran Canaria 

Westsahara 


(USA) 

ARGENTINA 

GUYANA 

SURINAM 

French 

Guyana 

URUGUAY 

(DENMARK) 

Azores 

(PORT.) 

Trindade 

(BRAZ.) 

(PORT.) 

ICELAND 

Faroe Is. 

(DENM.) 

Shetland Is. 

(UK.) 

IRELAND 

PORTUGAL 

(UK.) 

CÔTE 

D’IVOIRE 

Tristan 

da Cunha 

(UK.) 

Falkland Islands 

(UK.) 

South Georgia 

(UK.) 

South Sandwich Islands 

(UK.) 

South Orkney 

Islands (UK.) 

Arctic Ocean 

Svalbard 

(NOR.) 

Oslo 

Bjørnøya 

(NOR.) 

Copenhagen 

UNITED 

KINGDOM 

FRANCE 

SPAIN 

GHANA TOGO 

(UK.) 

NORWAY 

BENIN 

A l p s 

Bouvetøya 

(NOR.) 

SWEDEN 

Stockholm 

ITALY 

Cape Town 

k 

M e d i t e r r a n e a n S 

TUNISIA 

Mexico City 

JAMAICA HAITI San Juan 

BELIZE 

ANTIGUA & BARBUDA 

ST. KITTS & NEVIS 

GUATEMALA HONDURAS 

DOMINICA 


ST. VINCENT ST. LUCIA 

Adria Airways 

EL SALVADOR NICARAGUA GRENADA BARBADOS 

Air Canada 

Clipperton 

TRINIDAD & TOBAGO 

(FR.) COSTA RICA 

Air China 

PANAMA VENEZUELA 

ANA 


COLOMBIA 

Blue1 

Equator Galápagos 

(ECUADOR) 

bmi 

ECUADOR 


MAURITANIA 

MALI 

CAPE 

NIGER 

VERDE SENEGAL 

CHAD 

GAMBIA 

BURKINA 

GUINEA-BISSAU 

FASO 

GUINEA 

NIGERIA 

SIERRA LEONE 

CENTRAL 

AFRICAN 

LIBERIA 

REP. 

EQU. CAMEROON 

GUINEA 

Equator SÃO GABON 

TOMÉ & 

PRÍNCIPE KONGO 

(Rep.) 

A 

A 

A 

N 


Egypt Air 


PERU 

BRAZIL 

Ascension 

( 


Lufthansa 




Lima 

BOLIVIA 

St. Helena 

ANGOLA A 



PARAGUAY 

NAMIBIA A 


Aeroflot 

airBaltic 


City Airline 

Estonian Air 

Icelandair 


Rossiya 

Skyways 

Widerøe 

LIBYA 

G 

Y

- 

a n Sea 

L 

N . 

FINLAND 

ZIMBABWE 

Frans Josefs 

Land 

(RUSSIA) 

TURKEY 

IRAQ 

Novaja 

zemlja 

BOTSWANA 

MOZAMBIQUE 

Johannesburg 

SWAZILAND 

LESOTHO 

SOUTH 

AFRICA 

Prince Edward 

Islands 

(S. AFRICA) 

U r a l M o u n t a i n s 

MADAGASCAR 

Crozet Is. 

(FR.) 

MAURITIUS 

Reunion 

(FR.) 

R U S S I A 

KAZAKHSTAN 

Kerguelen 

(FR.) 

Heard Island 

(AUSTR.) 

H i m a l a y a s 

Indian Ocean 

New Amsterdam 

(FR.) 

MONGOLIA 

BHUTAN 

BANGLA- 

DESH BURMA/ 

Phuket 

Krabi 

Ho Chi Minh 

Saigon 

Singapore 


Perth 

Arctic Circle 

Sea of 

Ochotsk 

Kamtjatka 

Sapporo 

Kuril Is. 

Guam 

(USA) 

(RUSSIA) 

Tropic of Cancer 

Northern 

Mariana 

Islands 

(USA) 

Tropic of Capricorn 

Melbourne 

Tasmania 

Bering Sea 

Sydney 

Marcus 

(JAPAN) 

Aleutian Islands 

A 

UZBEKISTAN KYRGYZSTAN 

TURK- 

MENISTAN 

TAJIKISTAN 

GREECE SYRIA 

AFGHANI- 

IRAN STAN 

Tel Aviv 

Cairo 

KUWAIT 

PAKISTAN 

NEPAL 

BAHRAIN 

EGYPT 

Dubai 

QATAR 

SAUDI- UNITED ARAB 

EMIRATES 

INDIA 

ARABIA 

OMAN 

NORTH 

Beijing 

KOREA 

JAPAN 

SOUTH 

Tokyo 

Qingdao 

KOREA 

C H I N A 

Fukuoka Osaka 

Nanjing 

Shanghai (From March 2012) 

Chengdu 

Ryukyu Is. Bonin Is. 

(JAPAN) (JAPAN) 

Xiamen 

Guangzhou 

TAIWAN 

Hanoi Hongkong 

MYANMAR 

LAOS 

Pacific 

Ocean 

(USA) 

D 

SUDAN ERITREA 

THAILAND 

Manila 

YEMEN 

Andaman Is. 

VIETNAM 

(INDIA) 

DJIBOUTI 

Bangkok CAMBODIA 

Lackadives 

PHILIPPINES 

Addis Abeba 

(INDIA) 

SOUTH 

Nikobar Is. 

SUDAN ETHIOPIA 

(INDIA) 

SOMALIA 

MALDIVES 

SRI 

BRUNEI 

UGANDA 

LANKA 

PALAU 

MALAYSIA 

KENYA 

RWANDA Nairobi 

SINGAPORE 

BURUNDI Mombasa 

KONGO 

Zanzibar 

I N D O N E S I A 

(Dem. Rep.) 

SEYCHELLES Chagos Is. 

TANZANIA 

(UK.) 

EAST TIMOR 

MARSHALL 

ISLANDS 

MICRONESIA 

Equator 

NAURU 

PAPUA 

NEW GUINEA SOLOMON 

ISLANDS 

TUVALU 

ZAMBIA MALAWI 

COMORES 

Cocos Is. 

(AUSTR.) 

AUSTRALIA 

VANUATU 

New 

Caledonia 

(FR.) 

Auckland 

NEW 

ZEALAND 

Alaska 

(USA) 

(USA) 

Wake 

International Date Line 

FIJI 

ISLANDS 

Kermadec Is. 

(N.Z) 

Chatham Is. 

(N.Z) 


HEAD SAS FLEET 

SAS 

Airbus A340-300 

Number of aircraft 6 

Number of seats 245 

Max. takeoff weight 275.0 metric tons 

Max. payload 44.0 metric tons 

Length 63.7 m 






Length 63.7 m 






Length 44.5 m 






Length 33.80 m 

Wing span 60.3 m 

Cruising speed 875 kmph/545 mph 

Range 12,800 km 

Fuel consumption 0.039 liters per seat/km 

Engine CFM56-5C4 





Engine RR Trent 772B 





Engine IAE V2530-A5 





Engine IAE V2524 

Boeing 737-600/700/800 

Number of aircraft 28/19/20 

Number of seats 123/141/186 

Max. takeoff weight 59.9/69.6/ 

79.0 metric tons 

Max. payload 13.2/15.2/19.6 metric tons 

Length 31.2/33.6/39.5 m 

Boeing 737-400/500 

Number of aircraft 3/8 

Number of seats 150/120 

Max. takeoff weight 68/60.6 metric tons 

Max. payload 17.3/13.5 metric tons 

Length 36.4/31.0 m 

MD-82 





Length 45.1 m 

CRJ900 NG (Next Generation) 



Max. takeoff weight 38 metric tons 


Length 36.2 m 

Wing span 34.3/35.8/35.8 m 

Cruising speed 840 kmph 

Range 2,400/4,400/4,200 km 

Fuel consumption 0.038/0.032/0.028 

liters per seat/km 

Engine CFM56-7B 



Range 3,150/4,100 km 

Fuel consumption 0.034/0.039 

liters per seat/km 

Engine CFM56-3 





Engine P&W JT8D-219 





Engine GE CR34-8C5 


PHOTO: VINCENT SKOGLUND, PETRUS OLSSON 

Blue1 Widerøe 

Boeing 717 





Length 37.8 m 

SAS Group airlines 

Blue1 

SAS 

Widerøe 

Star Alliance and other airline partners 

Adria 

Aegean 

airBaltic 

Air Canada 

Air China 

Air New Zealand 

ANA 

Asiana Airlines 

Atlantic Airways 

Austrian 

bmi 

Brussels Airlines 


City Airline 





Engine RR BR 715A1-30 

The SAS Airbus A340-300 has 

a cruising speed of 545 mph 



EgyptAir 

Estonian Air 



Lufthansa 

Qantas 



Spanair 

Swiss 

TAM Airlines 

TAP Portugal 

THAI 

Turkish Airlines 

United 

US Airways 

Check flysas.com for more information. 

Dash 8-Q400 





Length 32.8 m 

Dash 8-300 





Length 25.7 m 

Dash 8-100 


Number of seats 37/39 



Length 22.3 m 





Engine 2 x 5,071 hp Pratt & Whitney 

PW150A turboprop 





Engine 2 x 2,380 hp Pratt & Whitney 

PW turboprop 





Engine 2 x 2,150 hk Pratt & Whitney 

Our flying partners Talk to us 

Flysas.com 

For all information related to flying with SAS. 

Or visit our local websites: 

sas.se, sas.dk and sas.no 

SAS Customer Care 

www.flysas.com/feedback 

Facebook.com/SAS 

Become a fan, share your stories and ask 

your questions. 

Twitter.com/SAS 

Catch up with SAS and jot us a line. 

Youtube.com/flySAS 

Or call the SAS head office: 

+46 8 797 00 00 


EUROBONUS 

HEAD 

Fly with a bonus 

SAS EuroBonus is the leading bonus program 

in the Nordic countries, with countless reasons 

to join – both on the ground and up in the air 

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Earn points on: 

Spend points on: 

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Star Alliance and several 

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and several other airlines. 

Check your points 

other airlines. 

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flights. 

Find your up-to-date balance by logging on to 

flysas.com. 

�� 

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offers on flysas.com/eurobonus. 

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For detailed information, visit flysas.com/eurobonus. * SAS Group: SAS, Blue1 and Widerøe. 


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Old school New England 92 - Scanorama

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