Back to School - AJET

Back to School
Studying Japanese
Filling in the gaps after JET
Chrys Tappas was an ALT in Ibaraki-ken.
As the season for reckoning in the JET Programme rolled around
during my second year, and I began contemplating the third, I knew
that it was time to move on. Having learned only bits and pieces of
Japanese while in the countryside (my forté was junior high school
slang), I became determined to fill the gaps in my Japanese language
ability. Many people, specifically my parents, asked me why I was
planning to study Japanese after JET. “Business...helping a foreign
company,” I would airily answer, and rush off. Truthfully, I was not
sure what I would do when I reached inevitable fluency after six
months of study.
I was accepted into a Japanese language school for the fall. I bid
farewell to the large application fee and packed up. October came and
I found myself staring blankly at a textbook filled with black pickup
sticks. Faced with the realization that it was now or possibly never
again, I squeezed in some daily studying between photographing
Kyoto, meeting friends for coffee and teaching to support my wild and
crazy lifestyle. After six months of study, the course ended, and to
my surprise I had learned quite a lot. As with anything, what you
put in, you usually get back. Learning Japanese is just a matter of
gumption and diligence.
It is possible to stay in a Japanese language school for a few years,
as a good friend of mine had done. However, in order to justify this
path I felt that I would have to commit to a future with a Japanese
focus and constant interaction with the confusing Japanese
communication style. The more I thought about this world, the more
I knew it was not for me. I did not commit to the next Japanese
course, but went home and volunteered as a canoe tour guide in
Maine, USA.
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I have no plans to live in Japan again, and sometimes thoughts
about this decision bring on an unexpectedly sad mood. As much as I
groused about the dearth of bagels and abundance of traffic jams,
thoughts about Japan will continue to enchant me wherever I am.
Intensive Japanese language courses
Gavin Burtonwood was an ALT in Wajima, Ishikawa-ken and was an
Associate Editor for the 2000 edition of this book.
So what can you expect from spending your summer holiday
studying at one of the many intensive Japanese language courses
offered by language schools in Japan?
For a month long study, expect to spend around 100,000 yen.
Add to that the cost of your accommodations, food, travel, beer money
and the rest, and you can budget on spending most of your August
salary.
Second, do not expect a miracle. Your Japanese ability will
improve but no course comes with a guarantee of fluency. A native
teacher who uses Japanese as the language of instruction generally
conducts classes and this will certainly improve your listening ability.
Rather than providing fluency in Japanese, many students find that
intensive courses give their Japanese the kick-start that it needed.
When I started such a course, I could not communicate in
Japanese. I knew the words but was embarrassed of making errors,
or not understanding what the other person was saying. During the
course I learned not to be embarrassed and to use the Japanese that I
had to say anything I wanted. Maybe I do not know the Japanese
word for giraffe but I do know how to describe it in such a way that
any Japanese person would understand to what I was referring. This
is a definite advance over the sign language I used to rely on.
Try to find a college that organises home-stays for its students.
They provide the ideal environment to practice Japanese. Each of
the home-stays I experienced was completely unique. All three
families shared everything with me, from the cultural highlights of
the area to magic shows and Beatles bars. With any luck you will
take away some valuable memories and lasting friendships. Many
intensive courses offer home-stays on a first come, first served basis
and so people who apply late will be obliged to find their own
accommodations.
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Let your workplace know well in advance that you are intending
to study at a language school. If the school has a prospectus, show it
to your supervisor or principal. Request educational leave: kenshuu.
Your supervisor will be impressed that you are making so much effort
to study Japanese and may allow you the study leave. Some ALTs
find that they are allowed the time to study without taking a day of
vacation time, nenkyu.
Others are compelled to take nenkyu or special leave,
tokubetsunenkyu, for the entire length of the course. The following
website has a listing of Japanese language schools around the country,
listed by prefecture. Most do not have homepages. Some of the
colleges listed hold intensive language courses during the school
holidays and prior to the Japanese Language Proficiency Test:
http://kbic.ardour.co.jp/~newgenji/jls/index.ht ml
The Yamasa Institute (Aichi-ken)
Three courses are available over the summer with discounts for JETs.
It offers inexpensive accommodation, cultural activities, and some of
the best Japanese language teachers in the world.
http://www.yamasa.org
KAI Japanese School (Shinjuku, Tokyo)
Offers a three-week summer school. http://www.kaij.co.jp
E-mail: kaij@ca.mbn.or.jp
ARC Academy (Tokyo, Yokohama, Osaka)
Offers intensive courses ranging from two to eight weeks. There are
on average ten students per class. http://www.arc.ac.jp
Academy of Language Arts (Shinjuku, Tokyo)
Offers one- and two-month long intensive summer courses.
http://kbic.ardour.co.jp/~newgenji/ala
AMICA (Tokyo)
Spring break intensive courses, golden week intensive courses,
summer intensive courses, Christmas and New Year’s courses.
http://www.amica.ac.jp E-mail: amica@twics.com
Osaka YWCA
Offers courses ranging from summer intensive to full time and
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part-time morning or evening classes to JPLT prep courses, plus
private lessons
http://www.jca.ax.apc.org/ywca_osk Tel: 06-6361-2955
E-mail: ywca_osk@jca.ax.apc.org
Kyoto Centre for Japanese Linguistic Studies, Kyoto Japanese Language
School
Instructors from this school participate in the linguistics/pedagogy
and
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translation courses offered by CLAIR. The school has been running since 1950
and offers a range of courses including a 4-week summer intensive course.
http://www.kjls.or.jp E-mail kjls@mesh.ne.jp Tel: 075-414-04
Kyoto International Centre of Languages
21 Kamihata-cho, Kitashirakawa, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto Japan 606-8252
Tel: 075-722-5066 Fax: 722-50637
Offers three-week summer intensive courses from basic to advanced.
Apply well before the May 31 deadline. Longer intensive courses,
group and private lessons also available
SIL
Bell Idaimae 1F, 291 Nishi 18 chome, Minami 2-jo, Chuo ku, Sapporo,
Japan 060-0062 E-mail silnihon@spr.dpc.ne.jp
http://www.spr.dpc.ne.jp/silnihon
Studying Japanese and Methods for Success
Michael Radich lives in Nagano-ken and speaks both Chinese and Japanese.
He has passed the Level 1 of the Japanese Proficiency Test. The following are
his words of wisdom.
Myth #1: “Japanese is heinously difficult”
Japanese is a natural language that has evolved to suit the needs
of its native speakers for all kinds of practical and aesthetic
communication. As such, it is no harder (or easier) than any other
natural language. The kernel of truth in this myth is this: Japanese
is an isolated, typologically unique language. For native speakers of
Western languages, this means that there is little in what you already
know that will be of help to you in learning Japanese. More to learn
means it takes a longer time to learn it, and in this sense only it is
justifiable to call Japanese difficult. But this entire means is it
requires patience, not stunning intellectual prowess, to learn
Japanese.
Myth #2: “picking up the language”
Having no experience, I do not know if it truly is possible to just
mysteriously “pick up” European languages through mere contact,
like some communicable disease. I can fairly safely say that it is not
possible with Japanese. People do not leave the language lying
around the place for casual foreigners to snaffle up as a souvenir.
Without study, what you will “pick up,” at best, will be pidgin.
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How to study
Use a textbook
At beginner and intermediate levels, at least, the structured and
ordered picture of the language given by a good text is indispensable.
At advanced levels, texts are still extremely useful if you can find a
good one that covers the aspect of the language you are focusing on.
I have not conducted an extensive survey of the ocean of available
texts, but I can recommend Japanese for Busy People, which has
excellent explanations and exercises.
Have some sort of native speaker tuition
No matter how rural your situation, you should be able to find
someone willing to help you learn. Pay for a weekly lesson, or
organise an exchange in return for teaching your native language, or
go to free classes in one of the main centres. Do not expect the
teacher to structure your learning for you; you can use a text for that,
or your own initiative. When necessary, take active control of the
process, and come to the lesson with specific things that you want to
practice. Japanese people like talking to foreigners about the
language. It is a common talking point, and it is nice for them that
we are interested in their culture. Get into the habit of asking
questions of people, and when you find someone who is good at
answering, keep going back.
Study daily
The more you make study a regular habit, the less resistance you
will have to it. Regular study in small doses is more effective than
binging. Know your own attention span (which for intense tasks like
vocabulary memorisation may be as short as fifteen minutes or half
an hour) and respect it.
Learn from life
Combine your textbook study and lessons with learning from your
everyday life. Because you have met the language in a real situation,
you know it is really useful. Also, things from real life are so much
easier to remember, half of the work is already done for you. Keep a
notebook of the miscellany you encounter. There is no need to feel
awkward about jotting down occasional words in conversations with
Japanese friends.
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Memorize
Your notebooks need to become part of a regular and roughly
systematic process of memorizing their contents. Keep columns, one
with the item to be remembered and one with a prompt (e.g., a
translation in English). Go back over them and check which words
you have forgotten, and actively work on remembering those you have
trouble with. One system that seems pretty good is to go back three
times: once a day later, once a week later, and once a month later. In
keeping your notebook, you will find that on some days you encounter
dozens and dozens of new words. Have a daily limit over which you
just let it all go. Twenty or thirty words (or items to be memorised) a
day is not unrealistic.
In the early stages, when you still need to learn words, you can
label your whole house (i.e., a sticker that says “fridge” on the fridge).
Also, stick up the verbs for daily actions in the place where you
perform them (e.g., “brush teeth,” “wash face,” next to the basin, and
“wipe bum” in the loo).
The usefulness of context and connections to other things you
know is a key to being able to remember things. If you are having
trouble with a word, build more context and connections for it rather
than banging your head on a brick wall. You can create connections by
finding examples of how a word is used, either in a situational context
or in specific collocations. Looking words up in a dictionary, finding
related words or words that use the same kanji, or finding opposites
or other meanings for the same word are all useful methods.
Bringing the word into your own day-to-day life will help your
memorizing. I often start up strange little conversations with people
in my office with the sole purpose of surreptitiously slipping in a word
that I am having trouble learning.
Vary your study methods and situations
A German friend of mine once came to my door with the Chinese
for “forehead” written on his forehead, which looked ridiculous but
ensured I never forgot the word naomen. If you are alone and will
not be thought strange by anyone, acting out little scenarios
physically, with your body and facial expressions, will also help. You
can sometimes get your mouth to remember what your brain will not.
(Muscle memory or something.) In any case, mutter to yourself when
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you study; language learning is in part learning new motor control
skills. Work on pronunciation, and your body will assist with memory.
Variety is important. It will help you maintain interest, and
interest helps you retain what you are trying to learn. Conduct
Japanese lessons with your teacher in a café, read kids books, watch a
bit of TV with the dictionary, or learn to sing a Japanese song that
you like.
Finally, you also need to allow yourself to forget. In the long
term I think I forget about 20-30% of the vocabulary that I try to
learn. This is frustrating because memorisation is the hardest kind
of study and it feels worst to perceive it wasted. You should not let
this frustration, however, make you lose sight of the fact that
whatever proportion you forget, you are actually remembering all the
rest.
Well that is about all.
Do not be discouraged by the inevitable sense of frustration you
will experience through the learning process. Just as cultural
adjustment produces the culture-shock cycle of euphoria and
disappointment, language acquisition is characterized by a cycle of
emotions.
As long as you are working at learning, you will probably
experience periods where you sense progress and see yourself as a
brilliant raconteur in Japanese, and times where you seem like a
complete idiot. It is doubtful that either is the “true” picture, but the
cycle also seems to be a fact of life, and so it is best to just accept it,
and keep studying away all the same. You will learn, and you will
find that the rewards are worth the effort.
Study resources
Japanese for College Students, Basic: Vols. 1–3,International
Christian University. Text: US$24 Tapes: US$50.
Japanese for Busy People, Vols. 1–3, tapes and CDs available.
Association for Japanese Language Teaching.
Remembering the Kanji, I and II, A Complete Course on How Not to
Forget the Meaning and Writing of Japanese Characters and A
Systematic Guide to Reading Japanese. James W. Heisig, Japan
Publications Trading Co. US$35 and $37 respectively.
Integrated Spoken Japanese Vols. I and II. Kenneth D. Butler and
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Mizutani Osamu. Inter-University Center for Japanese Language
Studies. ¥3400 each, tapes available. (American and Canadian
university-approved advanced-level text.)
Online resources
Japanese On-line http://www.japanese-online.com
A range of useful facilities including Japanese lessons and an
online J-E/E-J dictionary.
Jeffrey's Japanese/English Dictionary Gateway
http://www.omron.co.jp/cgi-bin/j-e/. Allows you to view output in
either romaji or kanji and kana. Can convert from English to
Japanese and vice versa.
Japanese Input Method Editor
http://www.microsoft.com or http://www.netscape.com
Language support packs are available for free download for use
with Microsoft and Netscape web browsers. The Microsoft
package allows you to type Japanese within Explorer and
Outlook Express. The freeware allows you to write and receive
e-mails in Japanese.
Alternative Dictionary: http://www.notam.uio. no/~hcholm/altlang
Insult your colleagues in their mother tongue!
J-Links http://www.notam.uio.no/~hcholm/
A links bank of information about Japan in English.
**Note from the Project Manager: Having studied Japanese and Chinese
together for the past four years (because I am mad!), my tips are to try a little
every day, get drunk in the bar with the locals (often!) and just keep at it. For
Japanese Kanji, I have used many different approaches in quickly finding a
character that is annoying the hell out of you. The best book that I have found is
“The Kodansha Kanji Learner’s Dictionary by Jack Halpern,
ISBN4-7700-2855-5 (3,900 Yen). My electronic dictionary is now gathering
dust.**
The Japanese Language Proficiency Test
The Japanese Language Proficiency Test is one of the most widely
known tests to evaluate and certify the language proficiency of
learners of the Japanese language. Completely multiple choice and
computer scored, it is held every year on the first Sunday in December,
in Japan and thirty-eight countries around the world. Offered at
four levels, the exam has three sections: writing and vocabulary,
listening comprehension, and reading comprehension and grammar.
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Level 1 high-level grammar, 2,000 kanji, and 10,000 words
Level 2 high-level grammar, 1,000 kanji, and 6,000 words
Level 3 basic grammar, 300 kanji and 1,500 words
Level 4 basic grammar, 100 kanji and 800 words
The passing score for levels 2-4 is 60%, but for level 1, 70%. At every
level, you must pass each section in order to pass the test.
Applications are available from early August to mid-September, at
major bookstores. If there are no major bookstores in your area, you
may request an application through the mail by calling Daigaku
Tsushin at (03) 3291-3573. The application costs ¥486, and the exam
costs ¥5,200. The application deadline is mid-September at the very
latest.
Testing locations include Sapporo, Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka,
Kobe, Hiroshima, Fukuoka, and other major cities in Japan.
http://www.aiej.or.jp
Taking the JLPT overseas
Outside Japan, the application process and costs vary from
country to country. Most JET participant countries have at least one
venue for the exam. Some contact information is listed below. For
more information on taking the JLPT overseas, contact a Japanese
consulate in your country.
Sydney (61) 2-9957-5322 http://www.jpf.org.au/slc/
Toronto (1) 416-966-1600 http://www.japanfoundationcanada.org
Paris (33) 1-44-37-95-00 http://www.mcjp.asso.fr
Koln (49) 221-940-5580 http://www.jki.de
London (44) 207-499-4726 http://www.soas.ac.uk/Centres/Japan/
Los Angeles (1) 310-449-0027 http://www.jflalc.org
New York (1) 212-489-0299 http://www.jfny.org
Preparing for the JLPT
Start your preparations early in the summer before you even
apply for the exam. Take a preparatory course through a language
college if possible. Visit a major bookstore and purchase copies of past
exams (which come complete with answers and a tape of the listening
comprehension section) with which to revise.
If you stringently time yourself as you do the questions, as if you
were doing the actual exam, using copies of past exams disciplines you
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to be aware of time limits. No matter what level they are attempting,
most examinees declare that they can get the correct answers—it just
takes time. You will not have time during the actual exam. Get
used to it.
The Japanese Language Proficiency Test—Questions and Correct
Answers. Bonjinsha. ¥1200.
Preparation and Strategy: Practice Questions for the JLPT. ALC
Press Japanese Textbook Series. ¥1480.
The Preparatory Course for the JLPT. UNICOM, ¥1980.
A Dictionary of Japanese Grammar. The Japan Times, available at
beginner and intermediate levels, ¥3700.
Jetro Business Japanese Test
The Japan External Trade Organisation, together with the
support of more than 600 companies in Japan, developed this test to
help you objectively assess your business language proficiency in
reading, writing and speaking to work in Japan or for Japanese
companies.
To be eligible to take the test, you must be a non-native speaker
of Japanese. The test has two parts, the Listening and Reading
Comprehension Test and the Oral Communication Test (JOCT).
More than one level of the test can be taken on the same day, and the
test is administered at various sites throughout the world.
The JETRO Oral Communication Test (JOCT) measures and
evaluates communication skills. You must pass Level 1 of the
Listening and Reading Comprehension Test before taking the JOCT.
It is administered in Tokyo three months after the Listening and
Reading Comprehension Test.
The listening and reading comprehension test
Level 3
The candidate should have basic listening and reading skills
suitable for simple circumstances and daily situations in a business
and social environment. You should be able to read simple
documents, messages and signs. You should partially understand
the special vocabulary and expressions of business, including the use
of different levels of politeness. You should partially understand
Japanese business customs and practices. Fee: ¥5,500
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Level 2
The candidate should be able to understand the main points of
dialogue spoken during company and outside meetings, negotiations,
and telephone calls, and should also be familiar with the basics of
honorific language. You should be able to comprehend the main
points of company and general business documents, as well as the
main points of general and economic news on television and radio, and
basic Japanese business customs. Fee: ¥5,500
Level 1
The candidate should fully understand dialogue spoken during
company and outside meetings, negotiations, and telephone calls, and
must be competent at using honorific language at its various levels.
You should also fully comprehend company and general business
documents, in addition to general and economic news on television
and radio. You must have complete familiarity with Japanese
business customs. Fee: ¥6,000
Registration
The test is held during the first week in June. Applications are
accepted from February to early April. Application forms can be
requested from the JETRO Office in the city where you wish to sit the
test.
JETRO Tokyo Headquarters
International Communication Dept. JETRO Test Secretariat
2-5 Toranomon 2-chome, Minato-ku Tokyo 105-8466
Tel: (03) 3587-1143 Fax: (03) 5563-2857
JETRO Osaka
Bingo-machi Nomura Bldg., 1-8 Bingo-machi 2-chome, Chuo-ku
Osaka-shi, Osaka 541-0051 Tel: (06) 6203-3603 Fax: (06) 6222-5675
JETRO Niigata
Ebara Niigata Bldg., 5F 16-4 Shinko-cho Niigata-shi, Niigata
950-0965
Tel: (025) 284-6991 Fax: (025) 284-7910
JETRO Nagoya
Nishiki SIS Bldg., 1F 3-10-33 Nishiki Naka-ku Nagoya-shi,
Aichi-ken 460-0003 Tel: (052) 211-4517 Fax: (052) 202-0750
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JETRO Hokkaido
Sapporo MN Bldg., 5F Nishi 3-chome Kita 1-jo, Chuo-ku Sapporo-shi,
Hokkaido 060-0001 Tel: (011) 261-7434 Fax: (011) 221-0973
JETRO Fukuoka
El Gala Bldg., 7F 1-4-2, Tenjin, Chuo-ku Fukuoka-shi,
Fukuoka 810-0001 Tel: (092) 741-8783 Fax: (092) 714-0709
Locations of test centres world-wide
Test centres are located in Australia (Sydney), USA (Atlanta,
Chicago, Honolulu, Los Angeles, New York, Salt Lake City), Canada
(Toronto, Vancouver), the United Kingdom (Sheffield, London),
Ireland (Dublin), and Germany (Bochum). For further information
and addresses for these and other JETRO offices worldwide visit the
JETRO website. http://www.jetro.go.jp
The test of practical Japanese (J-Test)
The J-Test was introduced in 1991 as a test for conducting
objective measurement of the Japanese language proficiency of
non-Japanese. Unlike the pass/fail system used by the JLPT and
JETRO, the J-Test gives you a numerical score out of 1000. With
this test you have the benefit of knowing approximately where you
stand in current proficiency level.
A computer scores the J-test. All participants are mailed a
"Report Card" as certification of their Japanese proficiency, along with
reference materials. The general yardsticks for test scores are 400 to
700 points for Japanese language school students, and 750 to 900
points for university students. For entrance to university the
benchmark range is 700 to 800 points, and for gaining employment at
Japanese companies, 850 to 900 points.
Level A-D (intermediate-advanced) ¥2,100
Based on a maximum score of 1,000 points (listening
comprehension 500 points, reading comprehension/writing 500 points),
scores are used to rank proficiency from A through D. Because the
level of difficulty is equal for each test, by repeating the test it is
possible to monitor improvements in your Japanese proficiency.
Those scoring 500 points or more are issued certificates of recognition.
The listening comprehension section takes 45 minutes and the
reading comprehension/writing section, 80 minutes.
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• A Class (900 points): Interpreter level
• Secondary A Class (850 points)
• B Class (800 points)
• Secondary B Class (700 points) = Level 1 of the JLPT
• C Class (600 points): = Level 2 of the JLPT
• D Class (500 points): Japanese used by overseas employees level
Level E-F (elementary) ¥1,500
An elementary level test is offered as a means of testing those
learning or completing studies of elementary Japanese. The listening
comprehension section is 25 minutes long, and the reading
comprehension/writing section is 60 minutes long. Based on a
maximum score of 500 points, (listening comprehension, 200 points,
reading comprehension/writing, 300 points), proficiency is ranked as
one of two classes. (There are no designated classes for scores of less
than 300 points.)
• E Class (350 points): Equivalent to Level 3 of the JLPT
• F Class (300 points): Equivalent to Level 4 of the JLPT
When and how to apply
Tests are held publicly each year in January, April, June,
September, and November. Test sites include Sapporo, Sendai,
Tokyo, Niigata, Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, Fukuoka, and Okinawa,
among other places. If you can find five or more people interested in
taking the examination and have a school, company, or cultural centre
willing to administer it for you, you can apply to write it anytime as a
group. Application information and past examinations can be
acquired by contacting the following location:
Association for Testing Japanese / J. Test Office
Tsujisawa Building, 1-57-8 Higashi-Nakano Nakano-ku, Tokyo
164-0003
Tel: (03) 3368-8106 Fax: (03) 3368-8108 Email: jtest1@org.jtest.org
Website: http://www.jtest.org/jtest
Zen Buddhist Schools
Josh Rhodes was a third year ALT in Izumi, Kagoshima-ken, and an
Associate Editor of this book.
Throw a little peace and harmony into your life and visit one of
the many Buddhist temples that offer Zazen instruction. You can
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usually stay at inns located within the temple grounds and most
sessions are open to anyone wishing to participate. The fees are
usually comparable to a business hotel and include meals.
Participation in morning and evening sessions is mandatory and help
with daily cleaning is expected. Three- to four-day retreats for
English speakers are also available from time to time. A
comprehensive list of Zen Buddhist temples throughout the world that
can be found at http:// www.dharmanet.org/infowebz.html
Ida Ryogokudo Zazen Dojo 5-11-20 Minami Yawata, Ichikawa-shi, Chiba-ken 272
Tel: (0473) 79-1596 Fax: (0473) 78-6232 Email: dsangha@gol.com
Website: www.windbell.com/dsangha.html Holds up to 11 people in
individual rooms. The Dojo also houses a large Zazen Hall and
Lecture Hall, a library, and a communal kitchen and dining room.
Zazen, practice four times per day. Fees are ¥2,000 per day for the
first month, and then ¥40,000 per month thereafter.
Toshoji International Zen Center4-5-18 Yutaka Shinagawa-ku Tokyo 142-0042 Tel:
(03) 3781-4235 Fax:(03) 3781-6168 Email: toshoji@mb.infoweb.ne.jp
Website: http://village.infoweb.or.jp/~fwgc8522/ Eight rooms for men
and three for women. Free sutra chanting sessions daily except
Sunday. Free Zen training Saturdays. Full-time Zen training
¥3,000 per day. Accommodation fees total ¥30,000 per month.
Ichibata Yakushi Buddhist Temple866 Kozakai-cho, Hirata-shi, Shimane-ken
699-0074Tel: (0853) 67-0111 Fax: (0853) 67-0115 Email: infor@ichibata.org
Website: http://ichibata.org
Located on a 200-meter mountain in the middle of Shimane peninsula,
the temple offers free sessions daily in the morning and evening. All
lectures are held in Japanese, and the accommodations cost ¥5,900
per night.
TEFL Qualification
Louise Elliott was an ALT in Kanazawa, Ishikawa-ken
If you are considering further work in teaching English, but have
no formal qualification, get one that gives you access to any job from
Borneo to Brazil. The world EFL market is in desperate need of
teachers. Those with a well-known initial teaching qualification will
have their choice of jobs. Make sure your teaching certificate offers
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at least 100 hours of practical training, and teaching practice with
‘real’ students. Some institutions may insist that their own courses
and qualifications are valid worldwide, and while this may be true,
the most respected qualifications internationally are the
RSA/Cambridge CELTA, and Cert. TESOL by Trinity College, London.
They are offered in 250 centres in over 40 countries. The application
process often entails you write an exam.
CELTA—Certificate in English Language Teaching to Adults. A
minimum of 114 hours and may be taken part-time or full time. Full
time courses are normally intensive over four weeks and part time
courses vary from four or five months to a year. Usually requires
applicants to hold a degree.
http://www.cambridge-efl.org/teaching/celta/index.cfm
CELTYL—Certificate in English Language Teaching to Young
Learners in Language Schools. Designed for candidates who wish to
develop their knowledge and skills in teaching one of the following age
groups: 5-10, 8-13, or 11-16.
http://www.cambridge-efl.org/teaching/celtyl/index.cfm
Trinity College London
89 Albert Embankment, London SE1 7TP, UK
Tel: (44) 207-820-6100 Fax: (44) 207-820-6161
Email: brian@trinitycollege.co.uk
http://www.trinitycollege.co.uk
http://www.tlispain.com/teflcourses.htm
The British Council Teaching Centre, Tokyo
http://www.uknow.or.jp/bc/fs_english_e.htm
E-mail sheena.palmer@britishcouncil.or.jp
Further Qualifications
If your previous TEFL training concentrated on the practical
aspects of EFL/ESL, you may prefer to study the theoretical aspects
through a master’s degree. For university posts worldwide, and in
North America, a master’s degree in either TESOL or Applied
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Linguistics is the standard professional qualification and is often
taken as an initial training course.
There appears to be a shortage of RSA/Trinity diploma holders in
the private sector in Europe, Australia and New Zealand, where it is
definitely the preferred high-level qualification.
DELTA—Diploma in English Language Teaching to Adults. The
diploma is intended for teachers who have a minimum of two years
full-time (1200 hours) teaching experience of ELT to adults within the
past five years. It can be studied full-time (approximately eight
weeks), part-time (one year) or by distance learning, with the teaching
component (hopefully) taking place in your own country. The exam
consists of practical, oral, and written components, with exams
generally held twice a year.
http://www.cambridge-efl.org/teaching/delta/index.cfm
http://www.thedistancedelta.com
Applying for graduate studies
Get organized!
Allison Kolody is a former ALT from Nagano-ken and a weathered veteran of
J&B. She has been Project Manager and Chief Editor, as well as a
contributor.
When I applied to do graduate studies from this side of the
Pacific Ocean, the paperwork, and international phone calls, and
mailings were enough to make me wonder if higher education was
really worth the hassle. If your post-JET destiny lies in graduate
school and you really want a good program waiting for you as soon as
you return home you had better start the application process from
Japan very early.
Application packages
Many schools now offer online applications. If it is not possible to
apply online, leave more time than you think is necessary for
applications to arrive by mail. It seemingly took forever for my
application packages to arrive, much longer than it ever took for
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anything from my friends and family back home to arrive.
Universities are notoriously slow.
Tests
If your chosen school/faculty requires a standardized test, like the
GRE or LSAT, you can take prep courses and write the exam in Japan
at select locations. Be aware that some exams can be done at only
certain times throughout the year. Others, such as the new
computerized GMAT can be written at anytime. Study guides can be
ordered online or can be picked up at major bookstores throughout
Japan. It is even possible to register for your exam and take practice
tests over the Internet.
Useful links
http://www.gre.org (for the GRE)
http://www.lsat.org (for the LSAT)
http://www.ets.org This is the website of Educational Testing
Service, the organization that designs and administers standardized
tests, including the GRE and GMAT.
Transcripts
It helps considerably to have a supply of blank cheques on hand.
Order a student’s copy for yourself and make photocopies to send to
the people who will be writing recommendation letters for you.
Letters of recommendation
Once I had decided on the professors I wanted to ask to write
letters of recommendation for me, I sent emails re-introducing myself
and outlining what I had been doing for the past couple years. I told
them that I planned on applying to grad school and mentioned that I
would be calling sometime soon to formally ask if they would write a
letter for me.
The “warning email” is a good approach. When it comes time to
speak to your potential referees, they will have had time to figure out
who you are and whether or not they are able to help you. Email alone,
however, is not enough. International calls are a bit of an expense and
a hassle given time differences, but they show motivation, sincerity,
and allow you to reconnect with someone you may not have been in
contact with for a number of years. My statistics professors once told
my class that the more information your professor has about you, your
work and your life, the more personal and therefore more effective
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your letter of recommendation will be. He recommended the following
items be provided:
• Photocopy of your transcript—So he or she can see how you fared
in your coursework.
• Samples of work—One of my professors wanted to see some of my
papers so she could re-familiarize herself with my work, as well
as include in her letter that I was “articulate.”
• Curriculum Vitae—A succinct way to let him or her know where
you have been, what you have been doing and what skills you
have acquired.
• Photograph—To put a face to a name.
• Anything else that may be relevant
Unless you are a highly dedicated academic, old term papers were
likely not among the things that you brought over to Japan with you. I
was lucky in that I knew I was going to apply to grad schools. On a
trip home, I dug out my papers, organized them, made photocopies,
and put them in an easy-to-find location. When I needed them
forwarded to someone, I had my family locate them and send them off.
Of course, this may not be possible for many people. Anticipate what
you will need and figure out how to deal with it. Anything is possible.
In addition to standardized tests, transcripts, and letter of
recommendation, other requirements in applying to graduate schools
may include portfolios, or interviews, or both. Again, anticipate what
you will need and allow extra time. Remember that everything done
from overseas takes twice as long as it would at home.
International Scholarships
The commonwealth scholarship
This scholarship is available to international students of high
intellectual promises who are citizens of Commonwealth nations, or
protected British nationals, and under the age of thirty-five. Program
details vary according to the country offering the award, but in
general the scholarship is open for postgraduate degree programs in
any area of study, and is tenable for up to three years. The award
includes return airfare, a monthly stipend, university fees, a book and
study apparatus allowance, and travel study finances. In some cases
allowances are awarded for children or spouses. Applications are
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made to the Commonwealth Scholarship Agency in the country where
the applicant has permanent residence.
For a list of Scholarship Agencies throughout the Commonwealth,
consult the Association of Commonwealth Universities website
http://www.acu.ac.uk
The Monbugakusho (MEXT) scholarships
These are the crème de la crème of scholarships available to
students who wish to pursue their studies at national universities
throughout Japan. From the available scholarships those that are of
potential interest to JETs include Research Scholarships at the
graduate level open to candidates under the age of 35, Japanese
Language and Culture Scholarships for undergrads in Japanese
studies programs, open to candidates under 29 years of age and
Teacher-Training Scholarships for experienced teachers under the age
of 35.
Applications abroad can be made in two different ways, either
through Japanese diplomatic missions in your home countries (Japan
currently recruits candidates in 140 countries) or through universities
that have established exchange programs with Japanese national
universities. The types of scholarships available differ from country to
country so if you choose to apply through a diplomatic mission,
consult the Monbusho Scholarship co-ordinators at the Information
and Culture section in the Japanese Embassy of your country to find
out which ones are open for competition.
Applications for Research scholarships are generally accepted by
from March through May each year, though some regional variation
does exist. Screening then occurs and by October successful applicants
are recommended to the Monbugakusho. The selection results are
usually announced in January and the scholars leave for Japan after
April. The Research award is tenable for two years.
Applications for the Japanese Language and Culture or
Teacher-training scholarships are also usually accepted from March
through May each year, with screening occurring at the same time.
Successful candidates are recommended to the Monbugakusho by May.
The final results are announced in July and scholars leave for Japan
in October. Again there is some variation to this schedule, some
departures occur in April. The Teacher Trainer awards are tenable
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for two years and the Language and Culture scholarship is tenable for
one year.
To be eligible to apply for the Teacher-Trainer scholarship you
must hold at least a Bachelor’s degree and you must have worked for
at least five years at elementary or secondary education level or at a
teacher-training institute. College professors are not eligible.
If you are enrolled in a university that has an exchange program
with a national university in Japan, you may be eligible to apply for
the Research or Japanese Language and Culture scholarships through
your university. In this process, candidates are initially screened by
their university and then recommended to the Monbugakusho for a
final screening.
International students enrolled in graduate degree programs in
Japan, (including those admitted for the coming year), and
international students in their third year of an undergraduate degree
program in Japan are eligible to apply for the Research Scholarships.
Candidates from among international students are chosen by the
universities that they attend. The universities then recommend the
candidates to the Monbugakusho.
All candidates must be mentally and physically sound, and be
willing to study Japanese language. Japanese language ability is not
a requirement for the Research scholarship and the areas of study for
this particular award are not limited to Japanese culture or language.
Military personnel and spouses of current Monbugakusho scholars are
ineligible to apply for the scholarships.
In order to successfully earn a research scholarship, candidates
must supply a letter of acceptance from a professor in the graduate
department at a Japanese university where they would like to do
their studies. The letter helps the Monbugakusho with placement of
their candidates as they search for supervisors who share similar
research interests to the scholarship awardees. Additionally the
Japanese government would like to encourage greater communication
between Japanese and foreign academics. Potential applicants are
strongly encouraged to establish contacts with Japanese academics in
their field well in advance of any plans to apply for the Research
Scholarship.
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The Japanese government provides return airfare, school fees, an
arrival allowance of ¥25,000, and usually, cheap student housing or a
housing subsidy from between ¥9,000 to ¥12,000 a month. Both the
Research Scholarship and Teacher-Trainer Scholarship award a
monthly stipend of ¥184,000, whereas the Language and Culture
scholarship awards a monthly stipend of ¥142,500. Field study
allowances for the Research Scholarship may also be available.
Further information
For information on national universities that accept
Monbugakusho scholars, consult the catalogues available at the
Information and Culture section of the Japanese Embassy.
http://www.studyjapan.go.jp/en/index.html
http://www.aiej.or.jp
http://www.monbu.go.jp/emindex.html
http://www.monbushoscholars-uk.net
UNESCO
The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization
(UNESCO) through its sister organization The International Bureau
of Education, publishes Study Abroad/ Etudes an L’etranger/Estudios
en el Extranjero which provides information on 200,000 education
related scholarships and courses worldwide.
Australia
IBE
Case postale 199, 1211 Geneve 20, Suisse/Switzerland
Tel: 41-22-918-7800 Email: doc.centre@ibe.unesco.org
http://www.ibe.unesco.org
Schools & Scholarships
The following is a list of postgraduate courses, currently offered
at Australian tertiary institutions in the areas of Japanese, Teaching
English as a Foreign/Second Language and Teaching Languages other
than English. For a more comprehensive listing of universities and
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courses, visit the Australian Resource Library at the Australian
Embassy and see the collection of university handbooks, which have
detailed information about individual courses and programmes. The
Career Resource Centres located throughout Australia also have a
wide range of information on education in Australia. See
http://www.detya.gov.au for a listing of Australian university
homepages.
Queens land
Griffith University
Nathan, QLD 4111 Tel: (07) 3875-6754 Fax: (07) 3875-6766
http://www.gu.edu.au
Grad Certificate in Language Teaching–JP
International Education Directorate, The University of Queensland
St. Lucia, QLD 4072 Tel: (07) 3365-1960 Fax: (07) 3365-1794
Email: IEDenquiries@admin.uq.edu.au Website: http://www.uq.edu.au
GC, Post Grad Diploma, MPhil in JP; Gr.Dip, MA, DLit in ED
Bond University
Gold Coast, QLD 4229 Tel: (07) 5595-2651 Fax: (07) 5595-2696
Email: bueli@bond.edu.au Website:
http://www.englishinaustralia.com
Gr.Dipl Applied Linguistics; Gr.Dip., MA in Computer Enhanced
Language Learning
Queens land University of Technology
Victoria Park Road, Kelvin Grove, Brisbane, QLD 4059
Tel: (07) 3864-2000 Fax: (07) 3864-3984
E-mail: Admissions.enq@qut.edu.au Website: http://www.qut.edu.au
Gr.Dip in ED: Primary/Secondary; GC, MEd in ED (TESOL)
New South Wales
Australian Catholic University
International Education Office, GPO Box 968, North Sydney,
NSW 2059 Tel: (02) 9739-2092 Fax: (02) 9739-2001
Email: international@acu.edu.au Website: http://www.acu.edu.au
GC in TESOL
Charles Sturt University
Wagga Wagga, NSW 2678 Tel: (02) 6933-2660 Fax: (02) 6933-2799
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Email: inquiry@csu.edu.au Website: http://www.csu.edu.au
GC in Business JP; GC in TESOL, LOTE (language other than
English)
University of New England
Armidale, NSW 2351 Tel: (02) 6773-3192 Fax: (02) 6773-3325
Email: ipo@metz.une.edu.au Website: http://www.une.edu.au
GC, GD in AS; GD in Multicultural Ed., ED
University of New South Wales
Sydney, NSW 2052 Tel: (02) 385-3078 Fax: (02) 313-7382
MA, PhD in JP; GC, GD in TESOL, JP Teacher Training
The University of NSW Institute of Languages
Sydney, NSW 2052 Tel: (02) 9385-0339 Fax: (02) 9399-5420
Email: Institute.languages@unsw.edu.au
http://www.lang.unsw.edu.au
Macquaire University Sydney
Department of Linguistics, NSW 2109 Tel: (02) 850-8740
Fax: (02) 850-9199 Email: linpgo@ling.mq.edu.au
http://www.ling.mq.edu.au
D, MA in Applied Linguistics (TESOL)
University of Technology, Sydney
PO Box 123, Broadway, NSW 2007 Tel: (02) 9514-1531
Fax: (02) 9514-1530 Email: intlprograms@uts.edu.au
http://www.uts.edu.au
GC, GD, MA in TESOL
University of Sydney
Sydney, NSW 2006 Tel: (02) 9351-4079 Fax: (02) 9351-4013
Email: info@io.usyd.edu.au Website: http://www.usyd.edu.au
GD in JP, TEFL
University of W. Sydney, Nepean
PO Box 10, Kingswood, NSW 2747 Tel: (02) 9685-9297
Fax: (02) 9685-9298 Email: international@uws.edu.au
http://www.nepean.uws.edu.au GD in Language Teaching
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Western Australia
International Office, Curtin University of Technology
GPO Box U 1987 Perth, WA 6845 Tel: (08) 9266-7331
Fax: (08) 9266-2605 Email: international@cc.curtin.edu.au
http://www.curtin.edu.au
MA, PhD in JP
Murdoch International Murdoch University
South St, Murdoch, WA 6150 Tel: (08) 9360-2756 Fax: (08) 9360-5090
Email: admit@murdoch.edu.auWebsite: http://www.murdoch.edu.au
MPhil, PhD in JP
Edith Cowan University
Pearson St., Churchlands, WA 6018 Tel: (092) 73-8499
Fax: (092) 73-8732 Website: http://www.ecu.edu.au
GC, MEd, PhD in TESOL
Tasmania
University of Tasmania, International Admissions and Exchanges
GPO Box 252-38, Hobart Tasmania, 7001 Tel: (03) 6226-2706
Fax: (03) 6226-7862 E-mail: International.Office@utas.edu.au
http://www.international.utas.edu.au
GD, MA, PhD in Modern Languages
Northern territory
Northern Territory University
Darwin, NT 0909 Tel: (08) 8946-6004 Fax: (08) 8946-6644
GD in Applied Linguistics (TESOL)
Australian capital territory
Australian National University
Canberra City, ACT 0200 Tel: (02) 6249-5111 Fax: (02) 6249-5931
E-mail: info.ieo@anu.edu.au Website: http://www.anu.edu.au/ieo
GD, MLit in EAS. Internationally regarded as one of the best East
Asian Studies departments in the world.
South Australia
University of Adelaide
North Terrace, Adelaide, SA 5005 Tel: (08) 303-4455 Fax: (08)
303-4401 http://www.adelaide.edu.au
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GC in Language ED; GC, GD in TESOL; M.ED
Victoria
Deakin University
Pigdons Rd., Geelong, VIC 3217 (Campuses also in Melbourne and
Warrnambool) Tel: (03) 5227-1100 Fax: (03) 5227-2001
Email: dconnect@deakin.edu.au Website: http://www.deakin.edu.au
MA in JP; GD in Interpreting/ Translating, TESOL
Monash University
26 Sir John Monash Dr. Caulfield, VIC 3145 Tel: (03) 9903-1540
Fax: (03) 9903-1556 Email: melinda.stacey@adm.monash.edu.au
http://www.monash.edu.au
GD in Applied Linguistics, Business Communication; GD in Lang.
Acquisition
Swinburne University
John St., Hawthorn, VIC 3122
Tel: (03) 9214-8647 Fax: (03) 9818-3648 Email: isneng@swin.edu.au
Website: www.swin.edu.au
GD, MA in JP
Exchange program options
Japanese Studies Centre, Monash University,
Wellington Rd., Clayton, VIC 3168 Tel: (03) 9905-2260
Fax: (03) 9905-3874
Email: Japanesestudies.centre@arts.monash.edu.au
http:// www.arts.monash.edu.au/mai/jsc
TEFL courses
Australian TESOL Training Centre
PO Box 82, Bondi Junction, NSW 2022.
Tel: (02) 9389-0249 Fax: (02) 9389-7788
E-mail: enrol@ace.edu.au Website: www.ace.edu.au/attc
RSA/Cambridge certificate courses offered monthly.
Insearch Language School
University of Technology Sydney PO Box K1206, NSW 2000
ten-week TEFL evening courses offered.
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Australian Centre for Languages
Science House, 157-161 Gloucester Street The Rocks, Sydney, NSW
2000
Tel: (61) 2-9252-3788 Fax: (61) 2-9252-3799
Email: enquiry@acl.edu.au http://www.acl.edu.au
Scholarships and grants
Australian National University, International Education Office
Subjects: unrestricted. Tenable at Australian universities and
institutions. Duration: 1 year initially, 2 year extensions available
Value includes living allowance, may also include airfare and some
allowance for dependent children. Open to international master's
degree students proficient in English. Applications by September 30th Australian Vice-Chancellors' Committee, Commonwealth Scholarship and
Fellowship Plan, Australian European Awards Program
GPO Box 1142, Canberra, ACT 2601
Email: enquiries@avcc.edu.au Website: http://www.avcc.edu.au
Subjects: unrestricted. Tenable at Australian tertiary institutions.
Duration: (a) 2 to 3 years (extension possible if justified), (b) 12
months. Value: living allowance of $16,809, all compulsory fees and
health insurance, plus travel to and from Australia. Open to: (a)
graduate students from the UK, Canada, and New Zealand, (b)
graduate students from various European countries (including France,
Germany, and Ireland). Applications: (a) by June 30th for awards
tenable seven months later, through the Australian Embassy in
applicant's country; (b) by May 31st for awards tenable eight months
later, through the Australian Embassy in applicant's country.
Australian Research Council, Department of Employment, Education and Training
Youth Affairs Institutional Grants Section
PO Box 9880, Canberra, ACT 2601 Tel: (02) 6284-6600
Fax: (02) 6284-6601 Website: http://www.arc.edu.au
Subjects: research. Tenable at Australian institutions of higher
education. Duration: master's degree, 2 years; PhD, 3 years (with
provision for extension). Value: tuition and health coverage. Open to:
citizens of all overseas countries (excluding New Zealand).
Applications to the registrar of the institution at which the applicant
proposes to study.
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Australia-Japan Foundation Studies Grant
This grant is for Australian citizens (or permanent residents of
Australia) who have not previously received it.
Publications
The Directory of Postgraduate Study. Graduate House.
AU$40, post paid. The Graduate Connection, PO Box 172,
Balgowlah 2093 Email: coytep@deakin. edu.au
The Directory of Higher Education Sources. Hobson. New Press.
Available at Australian Diplomatic Missions.
Canada
Entrance requirements into Canadian graduate schools vary
greatly from university to university and faculty to faculty. However,
an honours undergraduate degree is usually required for admission to
Master’s programs. While most programs do not require standardized
tests, there are some notable exceptions. A few programs require a
GRE no matter what school you apply to. Of course, professional
programs such as law require an LSAT. Admission to MBA
programs requires a GMAT.
The first semester of the school year runs from September to
December and the second from January to April. Most universities
offer spring and summer courses for the super-determined “I just
wanna get it over and done with” type. Distance education is gaining
popularity. Additionally, some schools offer cooperative education in
selected programs, combining formal education with full-time work.
Not convinced that you should study in Canada? Tuition fees
and the average total cost of one year of education (tuition plus living
expenses) are significantly lower than in the United States, the
United Kingdom, and Australia (AUCC, 1998). The Association of
Universities and Colleges of Canada (AUCC) is a valuable source of
information for prospective students. Their website,
http://www.aucc.ca, has a particularly useful matching function.
Input your chosen program, degree level, and province, and it will
provide the names of schools that fit the criteria. There is also
information on education in Canada, scholarships, exchange programs
and links to all Canadian university web sites.
Only a small number of Canada’s universities are listed here.
There are many others that may suit your interests. Visit the AUCC
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website for links to all Canadian universities. The Canadian Embassy
in Tokyo is also a good source of information. You may also contact
the following organizations.
The Canadian Association of Graduate Schools
College of Graduate Studies & Research University of Saskatchewan
Room 50, Murray Bldg., 3 Campus Dr. Saskatoon SK, S7N 5A4
Tel: (306) 966-5751 Fax: (306) 966-5756
Email: Gradstudies@usask.ca
The Canadian Asian Studies Association, University of Montreal
C.P. 6128 Succursale Centre-Ville, Montreal QC, H3C 3J7
Tel: (514) 343-6569 Fax: (514) 343-7716
Email: denm@cetase.umontreal.ca http://www.casa.umontreal.ca
British Columbia
The University of British Columbia, The Faculty of Graduate Studies
180-6371 Crescent Road, Vancouver BC, V6T 122
Tel: (604) 822-2935 Fax: (604) 822-5802
Email: graduate@interchange.ubc.ca Website: http://www.ubc.ca
MA, PhD in AS, Ω, ED; Intensive JP Summer Courses (Contact
Directly through the Graduate Studies Office)
Simon Fraser University, David-See Lam Centre for International Communication
515 West Hastings St., Vancouver BC, V6B 5K3
Tel: (604) 291-5089 Fax: (604) 291-5112
Email:dlam-info@www.cic.sfu.ca Website: www.cic.sfu.ca/index.html
MA in AS
Alberta
The University of Alberta
252 Administration Building Edmonton AB, T6G 2M7
Tel (780) 492-3111 Website: http://www.ualberta.ca
MA, Ph. D in EAS, or Japanese Lang. and Lit. B. Comm. Asian special
The Institute of Asia-Pacific Studies
Grant McEwan Community College, 10700 104 th Ave. Edmonton AB,
T5J 4S2 Tel: (780) 497-5543 Fax: (780) 497-5314
Email: asiapac@gmcc.ab.ca/asiapacific Website: http://www.gmcc.ab.ca
2-year Asia-Pacific Management Diploma
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Ontario
International MBA (IMBA), Schulich School of Business, York University
4700 Keele St. Toronto ON, M3J 1P3
Tel: (416) 736-5942 Fax: (416) 650-3552
Email: imba@schulich.yorku.ca Website: http://www.yorku.ca/imba
Schulich School of Business at York University is Canada’s top
business school (Canadian Business 2001). The school’s IMBA
program includes an overseas study term, a work internship abroad,
foreign language study (including Japanese), and specialization in
Asia, Europe, or the Americas.
University of Toronto, School of Graduate Studies
63 St. George St., Toronto ON, M5A 4L8
Email: graduate.information@utoronto.ca
Website: http://www.utoronto.ca
MA, PhD in AS
Ontario Institute for Studies in Education of the University of Toronto
252 Bloor St. West Toronto ON, M5S 1V6
Website: http://www.oise.utoronto.ca/
MA, MEd, PhD in ED
Quebec
McGill University
945 Sherbrooke St. West Montreal QC, H3A 2T5
Tel: (514) 398-4455 Web Site: http://www.mcgill.ca
MA, PhD in EAS; MBA with concentration in EAS
Scholarships
The Paul Sargent Memorial Linguistic Scholarship Program
offers two scholarships of $12,000 tenable for two years of study to
students with previous exposure to an oriental language. Eligible
candidates must be Canadian with a bachelor’s degree in the
language concerned. http://www.aucc/en/programs/sargent.html.
Publications
Awards for Study in Canada, available from the Canadian Bureau for
International Education, 220 Laurier Avenue West, Suite 1100,
Ottawa Ontario, K1P 5Z9, Tel: (613) 237-4820, Fax: (613) 237-1073
http://www.cbie.ca
Going to Canada To Study, available from the Council of Ministers of
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Education Canada, 252 Bloor Street West, Suite 5-200, Toronto ON,
M5S 1V5, Tel: (416) 964-2551
Canadian University Distance Education Directory and The Directory
of Canadian Universities, priced $45.00 in Canada, $49.00 in the USA
and $59.00 elsewhere; available from Elizabeth Clarke and Associates,
392 March Road Suite 231 Box 1, Kanata Ontario, K2K 2E1,
Tel: (613) 271-1095, Fax: (613) 599-7027, Email: clarkeassoc@igs.net
Internet resources
Canadian Bureau for International Education
http://www.cbie.ca
Canadian Information Centre for International Credentials
http://www.cmec.ca/cicic/indexe.htm
Natural Science and Engineering Research Council
http://www.nserc.ca
Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council
http://www.sshrc.ca
Canadian Education on the Web
http://www.oise.utoronto.ca/~mpress/eduweb.html
Second Language Education on the Web
http://www.oise.utoronto.ca/~aweinrib/sle
Vancouver English Centre
http://www.vec.bc.ca
Alberta Distance Education and Training
http://athabascau.ca/html/collab/adeta
Distance Learning British Columbia
http://www.learning.bc.ca/index.html
Calendar of University Distance Education Courses in the Atlantic
http://www.dal.ca/aau/calindex.htm
Distance Education Courses in Ontario
http://node.on.ca/courses
Intergovernmental On-line Information Kiosk
http://www.intergov.gc.ca/edu/index.html
Association of Canadian Community Colleges
http://www.accc.ca
Republic of Ireland
The Republic of Ireland has six universities, Trinity College being
the most famous. There are also a host of colleges throughout
Ireland, which provide a wide range of courses.
Central Applications Office, Tower House, Eglington Street, Galway,
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Tel: (091) 563318, 563269, Fax: (091) 562344. This association
provides information for prospective students and processes
applications for entry to universities and other academic institutions.
Dublin City University
Dublin 9 Tel: (01) 704-5566 Fax: (01) 836-0830
Email: registrars.office@dcu.ie Website: http://www.dcu.ie
MA Cultural Studies and Communication, MA International Relations,
MA Translations Studies (Japanese)
University College Dublin
Belfield, Dublin 4 Tel: (01) 706-7777 Fax: (01) 269-4409
Email: info@ucd.ie Website: http://www.ucd.ie
UCD offers courses in Cert/HDip TEFL. The HDip lasts nine months
and requires two years of experience in TEFL teaching. The Cert
TEFL requires no experience and lasts a year. Both courses are
part-time evening courses.
University of Limerick
National Technological Park, Limerick Tel: (061) 333644 Fax: (061)
330316 Website: http://www.ul.ie MBA; MA in ∆, JP
Trinity College
Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 677-2941 Fax: (01) 677-1698 Email: ilfilby@tcd.ie
http:// www.tcd.ie MBA, MA International Peace Studies, Evening
courses in Japanese.
University of Cork
Cork, Ireland Tel: (021) 902043 Fax: (021) 903223
Email: info@langcent.ucc.ie Website: http://www.ucc.ie
Japanese can be studied as a language option in non-language courses.
The university also offers TEFL courses.
University of Galway
University Road, Galway, Ireland Tel: (091) 524411
Email: pgen@mis.nuigalway.ie Website: http://www.ucg.ie
Offers no courses in TEFL or Japanese but contact the university at
the address above for a list of other courses.
If there is sufficient interest, the following colleges may offer evening
courses in Japanese: St. Killian's Community School, Bray Coolmine
Community School, St. Patrick's College, in Maynooth, and Cork
Language Centre.
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Scholarships
International Section, Department of Education and Science
Marlborough St., Dublin 1, Tel: (01) 809-5029 Fax: (01) 874-1933
Subjects: unrestricted. Tenable: at any university or higher institution
in Ireland. Duration: one academic year. Value: IR£2,600 per year, IR
£450 in summer school scholarships offered to Belgian, French,
Italian and Spanish students. Open to: (a) students taking part in
bilateral programs between the government of Ireland and the
governments of Australia, Austria, Belgium, China, Denmark,
Finland, Greece, Spain, and Switzerland; (b) students taking part in
scholarship programs between the government of Ireland and the
governments of France, Germany, Italy, and the United Kingdom; (c)
students from Belgium, France, Italy, and Spain taking part in
summer school scholarship exchanges.
The University of Limerick
Tuition fees for the first year of registration in TEFL programs are
waived for students from the EC. EC students enrolled in other
programs are also exempt from tuition fees for TEFL courses.
Additional contacts
The Higher Education Authority, Marine House, Clannilliam Court,
Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 661-2748 Fax: (01) 661-0492 Email: info@hea.ie
http://www.hea.ie
Irish Council for Overseas Students, 41 Morehampton Road, Dublin 4.
http://www.sivl.ie
National Council for Educational Awards, 26 Mountjoy Square,
Dublin 1
Japan
The following advice comes from Eric Stewart, a former JET from
Ishikawa-ken who after three years on the JET Programme went through the
ordeal of applying for a Monbusho award for postgraduate study in Japan.
American students who are interested in obtaining a Master’s or
doctorate in Japan should realize that their degree would not be given
the same status that would accompany a degree from a US university.
(I am unsure of how they are seen by other countries.)
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I have had several professors tell me that if one is serious about
getting a graduate degree, it is best to enroll first in a degree program
back home and then use a Monbusho award to do thesis research. If
you do the Monbusho without being in a US university to begin with,
they are unlikely to award you credit ex post facto.
Applications for graduate programs in Japan are submitted
between October and December for courses beginning in April. With
all the time involved in preparing application forms, as well as the
time required by guarantors to make all the necessary arrangements,
you should begin making your preparations six to eight months in
advance.
In order to enter a Master's program in Japan, you are required
to have completed 16 years of education and to have graduated from a
four-year university program, or be recognized as having academic
ability at this level. However, if you completed university in a
country where it is possible to graduate with less than 16 years of
education, you are qualified to enter graduate school in Japan
provided you are 22 years old, and have been registered as a
researcher, research student, etc., for at least one year.
For those thinking of going for a doctorate, you will need to have
completed a master's, or to be recognized as having academic ability
at this level or higher.
Basic requirements
In order to apply to a postgraduate program you will most likely
need the following: an application form, a certificate of personal data
obtained from your undergraduate university, your diploma,
university transcripts, a medical certificate, a research essay and a
summary from university, a letter of introduction from the head of
department or lecturer from your undergraduate university, a copy of
alien registration, certificate of permission to sit the entrance exam
(for applicants who are in other graduate schools or working), and a
photograph of yourself.
Some universities accept applicants to postgraduate studies based
on submitted documents alone, but most require students to sit
entrance examinations. Many programs require students to study as
kenkyusei for a year before sitting the entrance exam. Kenkyusei,
are usually selected based on submitted documents, but some schools
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equire applicants to contact a supervising instructor to obtain
informal consent prior to admission. In this case, it is a good idea to
write a letter of intent to the instructor in question.
Graduate school entrance exams usually consist of document
screening, a short thesis, and oral questioning, as well as written tests
in Japanese, English, and special subjects. Be prepared for a rather
gruelling oral exam, where professors will take turns trying to tear
your thesis to shreds. While examination dates vary depending on
the school, most hold their graduate entrance exams from August to
October. Some, however, hold them in February and March. Should
you muck up the exam, you may want to consider other options,
unless you are into going ronin for a year and then trying again.
As a rule, degrees obtained in Japan will be recognized in your
home country, but it is probably a good idea to check before you enroll.
University fees usually run around ¥3,000,000 to ¥6,000,000 per year.
On the bright side, up to 80% of medical expenses may be reimbursed,
and if you are a student you get a discount on the national railways.
For a detailed listing of majors offered at the undergraduate and
postgraduate levels at universities throughout Japan, contact:
The Information Centre, Association of International Education, Japan
4-5-29 Komaba, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 153-8503 Tel: (03) 5454-5216 Fax:
(03) 5454-5236 Website: http://www.aiej.or.jp
The AIEJ website has an English version and gives an in-depth
indexing of all majors, as well as college and university numbers and
addresses.
Another useful publication from the Information Centre is The
Student Guide to Japan, which provides information regarding
applications, entrance requirements, visas, scholarships, and
resources to help you choose an appropriate institution
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Guarantors
If you are changing your visa to a student visa, you will need a
guarantor. In principal, guarantors must be Japanese nationals.
However, foreigners who have lived in Japan for more than 10 years
are also acceptable. In either case, your guarantor must have a
steady income, and in most cases must show proof of this upon
application.
Working
Officially, a student visa entitles you to work a maximum of four
hours a day. You may work eight hours a day during summer
holidays (usually July 1 st to August 31 st).
Information Services, The Student Exchange Division, Science and
International Affairs Bureau, Monbugakusho - 3-2-2 Kasumigaseki,
Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-6090
Sources of funding
There are many useful reference publications available for those
wishing to obtain scholarships to study in Japan. The most helpful is
AIEJ 1997 Scholarship Guide for International Students in Japan.
This document lists about 200 private and city-sponsored scholarships
for foreign students. It is a gold mine of information.
Another useful document is the Outline of the Student Exchange
System in Japan, a Monbusho publication with lots of graphs and
statistics, but also containing some useful information. Get it from
the Student Exchange Division of Monbusho in Tokyo, 3-2-2
Kasumigaseki, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100, Tel: (03) 3581-4211 ext. 2625,
Fax: (03) 3592-1305.
A good source of reference for scholarships in Japan and around
the world is Study Abroad, published by UNESCO (see their address
under “international scholarships” in the TEFL qualification section).
This book, for ¥4,000, provides in-depth information regarding the
various financial awards and scholarships available to foreign
students in Japan. Most scholarships, however, will only cover a
portion of your expenses, with the average monthly stipend being
¥71,000.
Further scholarships can be obtained through local governments,
with aid covering not only tuition, but in many cases accommodation,
national health insurance, and transportation. Additionally,
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“Honours” scholarships for excellent academic achievement are
available, as well as “Peace and Friendship” scholarships. For these,
you should apply to your department once you have been granted
admission to the university.
Japanese private foundation scholarships, solicited from
particular countries or regions where the enterprise or foundation has
an interest, as well as educational institution scholarships provided
by the university itself, provide even more possibilities for those in
need of financial support. Fee waiving, usually of at least 30%, also
helps ease the burden somewhat.
The Matsumae International Foundation
Room No. 6-002 New Marunouchi Bldg.1-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku,
Tokyo 100-0005 Fax: (03) 3214-7613 Email: contact@matsumae-if.org
http://www.mars.dti.ne.jp/~mif/
Twenty International Foundation Fellowships are awarded every
year, with priority given to applicants in the fields of engineering,
medicine, and the natural sciences. The fellowship is tenable at any
institution in Japan and is open to all nationalities (Japanese
excluded) who have obtained a doctorate degree and who have over
two years of research experience or who are deemed to possess
equivalent qualifications by the screening board. Fellowships are
available for up to 12 months, with recipients receiving a monthly
allowance of ¥150,000, plus health insurance. Applications due by
July 31st, 2002; fellowships begin in April 2003.
Language
Those who wish to pursue preparatory courses in Japanese prior
to entering a graduate program should look into one of the following
options
• Week long courses are provided by Gaimusho (Ministry of Foreign
Affairs) for members of JETAA currently teaching or currently
pursuing certification to teach Japanese in the future. The
courses are offered in the summer (for members from the US,
Canada, Ireland, and the UK) and winter (for members from
Australia, NZ, China, Korea, Germany, and France). These
courses are completely free and competition is fierce. They require
ni-kyu (second) level of the Japanese Language Proficiency Test,
or equivalent. Ms. Yabuki or Ms. Sueoka of the Second Cultural
Affairs Division at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Tel: (03)
3580-3532, Fax: (03) 3592-0156
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• Sophia University: Summer of Asian Studies program. There are
twelve courses, including introductory Japanese. The tuition and
registration fee is ¥150,000 for two courses (3 credits each).
Sophia University, Ichigaya Campus, 4 Yonbancho, Chiyoda-ku,
Tokyo 102-0081, Tel: (03) 3238-4090, Fax: (03) 3238-4091,
Email: c-takeda@hoffman.cc.sophia.ac.jp Website: 133.12.40.67
• Japanese Language School of the International Student's
Institute. The Japanese Language School of the International
Student's Institute, 3-22-7 Kitashinjuku, Shinjuku, Tokyo
169-0074
• Some universities offer language courses for their foreign
students; so check with the university directly. Also, be sure to
read the beginning of this section, for more information on
summer Japanese language courses.
Other institutions
The International University of Japan
The Office of Student Recruitment, Yamato-machi, Niigata-ken
949-7277 Tel: (0257) 79-1105 Fax: (0257) 79-1188
Email: admqsir@iuj.ac.jp Website: http://www.iuj.ac.jp
Consists of two graduate schools offering an MBA program and MA
programs in International Development and Asia Pacific International
Relations. All courses are taught entirely in English. It is now
possible to apply on-line.
McGill University, McGill MBA Japan
Room 327, Building 11, Sophia University, 7-1 Kioi-Cho, Chiyoda-ku,
Tokyo 102-8554 Tel/Fax: (03) 5215-1383
Email: mbajapan@management.mcgill.ca
http://www.management.mcgill.ca/programs/mbajapan
Through Sophia University, McGill University offers a 2-year MBA
program in International Business Management. The program is
structured to allow students to maintain full-time employment as
they study.
Other useful addresses
National Association of Special Training Schools of Japan
Shigaku Kaikan Bekkan, 4-2-25 Kudan-kita, Chiyoda-ku,
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Tokyo 164-0073 Tel: (03) 3230-4814
Japan Society for the Promotion of Science
5-3-1 Kojimachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 102-0083 Tel: (03) 3263-1732
Association for the Promotion of Japanese Language Education
2F Korin Bldg., 1-13-19 Kita-shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 169-0074
Tel: (03) 5386-0080
Japan International Training Cooperation Organization (JITCO)
3-11 Kanda, Surugadai, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 101-0062 Tel: (03)
5562-3525
Provides technical training.
Publications
Japanese Colleges and Universities, Maruzen Co. Available for
reference at all Japanese embassies and consulates.
ABCs of Study in Japan and Student Guide to Japan, AIEJ.
The Guide to Japanese Career and Vocational Schools, Sampo Ltd.
Shihi Gaikokujin Ryugakusei no tame no Daigaku Nyugaku Annai,
Daigaku Tsushin Co. Provides information in Japanese on entrance
examinations.
Japanese Language Institutes in Japan, the Association for the
Promotion of Japanese Language Education. Provides a brief
introduction to various institutes. Available for reference at all
Japanese embassies and consulates.
New Zealand
The New Zealand academic year runs from January through
November, with university courses beginning in March.
Pre-enrolment for regular university courses takes place from
mid-December.
Correspondence courses are also available at certain institutions
(Massey University among others), and those interested in enrolling
usually apply by mid-January. Specific information regarding courses
and dates of registration may be obtained from any New Zealand
Embassy.
For anyone interested at studying at one of New Zealand's seven
universities, homepage listings can be found at the following
University of Otago-run site: http://cirdan.otago.ac.nz/web.nzlib.html.
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Information about costs, the academic year, possible funding, etc., can
be found at http://www.nzeil.co.nz/
Massey University
Private Bag 11-222,Palmerston, North Auckland, NZ
Tel: (06) 350-6148 Fax: (06) 350-5698
Website: http://www.massey.ac.nz
MA in JP; MEd
Canterbury University
Private Bag 4800, Christchurch, NZ Tel: (03) 364-2966
Fax: (03) 364-2999 Website: http://www.canterbury.ac.nz MA in JP
University of Auckland
Private Bag 92019 Auckland, NZ Tel: (09) 373-7999 Fax: (09) 373-7405
Email: enrol@auckland.ac.nz Website: http://www.auckland.ac.nz
Dip in JP, Asian Studies; GDip in Lang. Teaching
Waikato University
Private Bag 3105, Hamilton,NZ Tel: (07) 838-4439 Fax: (07) 838-4269
Email: studyabroad@waikito.ac.nz
Website: http://www.waikato.ac.nz/international
MA in JP Linguistics
Victoria University
PO Box 600, Wellington, NZ Tel: (04) 463-5233 x 8013 Fax: (04)
463-5427
Email: enrolment-enquiries@vuw.ac.nz Website: http://www.vuw.ac.nz
MA, PhD in JP; Dip, MA in TESOL
University of Otago
PO Box 56, Dunedin, NZ Tel: (03) 479-8247 Fax: (03) 479-7377
Email: external-relations@otago.ac.nz Website: http://www.otago.ac.nz
MA, MLit, PhD in JP
TEFL
Auckland Language Centre
PO Box 105-035, Auckland, New Zealand
Tel: (64) 9-303-1962, Fax: (64) 9-307-9219
Email: info@akldlang.co.nz Website: http://www.geosalc.co.nz
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Technical institutions
Application deadlines for technical institutions are in September.
Auckland Institute of Technology
Private Bag 92-006, Auckland, NZ
Tel: (09) 307-9909 Fax: (09) 307-9860
Email: courseinfo@ait.ac.nz Website: http://www.ait.ac.nz
2-year diploma/BA course in JP
Christchurch Polytechnic
PO Box 22-095, Christchurch, NZ
Tel: (03) 364-9651 Fax: (03) 379-1435 Website: http://www.chch.ac.nz
Two-year tourism course; intensive JP; BA in JP
Unitec Institute of Technology
PO Box 92-025, Auckland, NZ
Tel: (09) 815-4302 Fax: (09) 815-4301
Email:flittle@unitec.ac.nz Website: http://www.unitec.ac.nz
Scholarships
See information on the Commonwealth Scholarship
Additional contacts
Ministry of Education
PO Box 1666, Wellington, NZ.
Email: communications@minedu.govt.nz
http://www.teachnz.govt.nz
New Zealand Vice-Chancellors Committee
Ann Rutledge, International Manager
PO Box 11-915 Wellington, NZ Direct Dial: (04) 801 8528
Phone: (04) 381-8508 Fax: (04) 381-8501
Email: international@nzvcc.ac.nz Website: http://www.nzvcc.ac.nz
Brochure on studying in NZ
New Zealand University Students Association
Rowena Tun, Office Administrator
PO Box 10-191 Wellington, NZ Tel. (04) 498-2500 Fax: (04) 473-2391
http://www.students.org.nz
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New Zealand Education Trust, Education New Zealand
PO Box 10-500, Wellington, NZ
Tel: (04) 472-0788 Fax: (04) 471-2828
Email: sue.wadham@educationnz.org.nz
http://www.nzeil.co.nz/nzei.html
Publications
Education New Zealand 1991, and Handbook of Courses and Costs.
New Zealand Education International. New Zealand Embassies and
Consulates.
The United Kingdom: Higher Education in Britain
Tim Morey was a CIR in Aomori-shi
The joy of doing postgraduate work in Britain is threefold. First,
many British universities are top class research institutes, and have
been so for more than 600 years. Second, entry to a British university
is relatively easy—no standardised tests, no expensive exams.
You will need a good upper-second class in your undergraduate
degree (though occasionally a lower-second class degree is acceptable).
[For North American undergraduate degree holders, an upper-second
is basically a 3.0 GPA on a four-point scale.] Some universities insist
on an interview before awarding a place though an exception is
usually made for people living abroad. Non-native English speakers
have to reach the UCLES CPE standard of English proficiency for
many courses, although this varies according to the course and
institution.
Third, Britain is relatively cheap for foreign students. Tuition
for a humanities research degree is between £6,500 and £7,000 for
students outside the EC.A research science degree costs about £8,200
the average yearly living cost is about £5,800. Only Canada is
cheaper for Western countries.
There are three basic types of courses. A Postgraduate Diploma
is usually a nine-month taught course in subjects such as journalism
or languages. Master’s degrees are offered in most subjects as taught
courses. Taught master’s degrees (MA, MSc etc.) usually consist of
twelve months full-time study with a research thesis to be completed
within the year. MPhil and MLitt degrees are usually research
degrees and usually take about two years to complete though MPhil
are occasionally awarded for taught courses. A doctorate, normally a
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PhD or DPhil, is awarded after original research, and usually takes
three years (full-time) or five years (part- time) to complete.
Opportunities for making money as a student do exist in Britain,
though work visas are hard to come by. Aside from working in bars,
etc., on the sly, many departments offer undergraduate tutorial
teaching. Four hours a week of this would cover your rent and food.
It is also possible to do a joint PhD program in your home country
and the UK. This is quite easy to do if your home university has a
relationship with one in Britain.
The University of Wolverhampton runs an active map of British
university homepages. Simply click on the icon for the city and
college of your choice and it will take you to that homepage. This is
useful if you want to study in a certain geographical area. The website
also has useful links to sponsorship:
http:// www.scit.wlv.acuk/ukinfo/uk.map.html.
Choosing your graduate program
Most academics “study up and work down,” so get the best
program at the best university that you can. You will need a research
topic in mind before you begin looking into the current research and
publications in your chosen field. It is very important not only to
choose a graduate department that conducts quality research in your
field, but also one that houses a professor who will be able to
supervise your work. Ask previous instructors with similar research
interests for information on the best departments, people, and
publications. On the web you can check the ratings for universities in
the UK at The Times Good University Guide
http://www.the-times.co.uk/gug, or visit the Research Assessment
Exercise.
The RAE gives official rankings for the quality of research being
conducted at each institution by subject.
http://www.hefce.ac.uk/Research/assessment/default.htm
The British Council http://www.educationuk.org. Also has The
Current Research in Britain database available as a resource on
individual professors’ research interests.
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All university web sites in Britain can be found through the
Council’s web page. Check the graduate departments that you are
interested in for information on: current research activities and
publications; the size and profiles of the staff; facilities and academic
resources; the department’s links to other institutions and bodies;
application procedures and deadlines; entrance qualifications; cost
and length of the programs; and possibilities for funding - especially
research assistantships.
It is advisable to apply to several universities. After you have
looked over the web pages, contact the universities directly for
prospectuses, brochures and further information on research. Go over
all the information you receive thoroughly and read the publications
from the department staff who you anticipate working with. Check
The Times Higher Education Supplement, http://www.thesis.co.uk to
find out if any of the professors you want to work under are offering
research assistantships.
Finally, prepare your research proposal. It should briefly
summarise what you intend to do, and it should be based on the
current research in your field. Make sure to leave yourself plenty of
time to apply long before any deadlines. Competition for funding is
fierce and it is often “the early bird who catches the worm.”
General information
The academic year in Britain begins in September with closing
dates for applications varying with each institution but generally at
least four months prior to the start of the course. For further
information on British postgraduate programs, get in touch with the
British Council Education Service at one of the following two
locations:
British Council Kyoto, Education Counselling Service
Kitashirakawa, Nishimachi 77, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto 606-8267
Tel: (075) 791-7151 Fax: (075) 791-7154 Inquiries M–F 10:00–18:00
http://www.britcoun.org
The British Council
Kagurazaka, 1-2 Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, 162-0825
Tel: (03) 3235-8031/8042 Fax: (03) 3235- 5477
Inquiries, M–F 13:00–17:00 Library Hours 10:00–21:00
Email: ecsinfo@britishcouncil.or.jp
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Web Site: http://www.uknow.or.jp and http://www.educationuk.org and,
http://www.britishcouncil.org/where/index.htm
Internet resources
British Academy http://wwwbritac.ac.uk
Economic and Social Research Council http://www.esrc.ac.uk
Natural Environment Research Council http://www.nerc.ac.uk
The Royal Society (London) http://www.royalsoc.ac.uk
The Royal Society of Edinburgh http://www.royalsoced.org.uk
Scottish Education and Training http://www.educationukscotland.org
Higher Education and Research Opportunities in the UK (HERO)
http://www.hero.ac.uk
Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council
http://www.bbsrc.ac.uk
Recommended universities
The universities listed below are known for their excellence in
either education or Asian studies. The letters ‘R’ and ‘T’ stand for
“research course” and “taught course”, respectively.
Birmingham University
Edgebaston, Birmingham B15 2TT, Tel: (0121) 414-3344
Fax: (0121) 414-3971 http://www.bham.ac.uk
MPhil, PhD in AS (R); MA in AS (T); MA International Studies
(Contemporary Pacific Asia); MA Translation Studies
The Centre for English Language Studies at the University of
Birmingham, the home of COBUILD research, is widely regarded as
the leading postgraduate centre for English language teaching in
Europe. The department offers both campus-based and distance
learning Postgraduate Cert/Dip/MA in TEFL/TESL starting in
October and April each year. The distance learning courses can all be
done from your home in Japan except for one-week for the summer
seminar in Hiroshima during the certificate course. The certificate
takes a year to complete while the diploma takes two years. The MA is
awarded after completing the diploma and a dissertation.
University of Bristol
Senate House, Tyndal Avenue, Bristol, BS8 1TH, Tel: (0117) 928-7048
Fax: (0117) 929-3296 Email: Communication-Office@bristol.ac.uk
http://www.bris.ac.uk
MEd in TEFL (T) PT Japanese courses available
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University of Cambridge
Japan Research Centre, Faculty of Oriental Studies, Sidgwick Avenue,
Cambridge, CB3 9DA Tel: (01223) 335100/335106 Fax: (01223) 335110
Email: zhc20@cam.ac.uk Website: http://www.cam.ac.uk
PhD in Oriental Studies (R); MPhil in Oriental Studies (T)
Cardiff University
Postgraduate Liaison Office, PO Box 921, Cardiff, CF1 3XQ
Tel: (029) 2087-4587 Fax: (029) 2087-4627
Email: cardiff-pg@cf.ac.uk Website: http://www.cf.ac.uk
MPhil, PhD in JS (R); MA in Applied Ling.; D, MA in Journalism (T)
Durham University
Old Shire Hall, Durham, DH1 3H, Tel: (0191) 374-2925
Fax: (0191) 374-3740Email: Wendy.Duery@durham.ac.uk
http://www.dur.ac.uk
MA, MLitt, PhD in Chinese/JP (R); Post Grad.Dipl. in JP (T)
University of Edinburgh, Centre for Japanese Studies
8 Buccleuch Place, Edinburgh, EH8 9LW, Tel: (0131) 650-4227
Fax: (0131) 651-1258 Email: Margaret.Gall@ed.ac.uk
http://www.ed.ac.uk
PhD in JS (R); MSc in JP. Evening classes in Japanese are available
for about £100 a term or £253 a year. Telephone (0131) 650-4227
Essex University, Contemporary Japan Centre
Colchester, C04 3SQ Tel: (01206) 87-3051 Fax: (01206) 87-3410
Email: ianj@essex.ac.uk Website: http://www.essex.ac.uk
MA, PhD in JS (R); MA in JS (T); Dip/ Cert in TEFL
Essex offers a variety of courses on the sociology, politics, and
languages of East Asia. Taught courses include MA Sociology and
Government of Japan, MA Study of Contemporary Japan, MA Study
of Pacific Rim and Japan, and MA International Relations. Highly
recommended.
University of Leeds, Department of East Asian Studies
Leeds, LS2 9JT Tel: (0113) 233-3460 Fax: (0113) 233-6741
Email: EastAsian@leeds.ac.uk Website: http://www.leeds.ac.uk
MA, DPhil, PhD in Chinese/JP (R), MA Asia Pacific Studies, Applied
Translation Studies
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Jayne Moon, School of Education, University of Leeds,
Leeds, LS2 9JT Tel: (0113) 233-4577 Fax: (0113) 233-4541
Email: J.P.Moon@education.leeds.ac.uk
http://education.leeds.ac.uk/~edu/home.html
University of Leicester
Higher Degrees Office, University Road Leicester, LEI 7RH
Tel: (0116) 252-2293/2298 Fax: (0116) 252-2447
Email: higherdegrees@le.ac.uk Website: http://www.le.ac.uk
GC in TESOL; MA in Applied Ling. and (T)
University of London, School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS)
Thornhaugh St., Russell Square, London, WC1H 0XG
Tel: (020) 7637-2388 Fax: (020) 7436-3844 Email: study@soas.ac.uk
Website: http://www.soas.ac.uk
MPhil, PhD in EAS (R), MA in JP Applied Linguistics, Adult Lang, Ed.
TESOL (T) in conjunction with the London School of Economics SOAS
offers many different programs in Asian and African Area Studies, as
well as Japanese linguistics, and Japanese Religions. The worlds
leading centre for Asia and Africa studies.
University of Manchester, Greater Manchester Centre for Japanese Studies
University of Manchester, Manchester, M13 9QQ
Tel: (0161) 275-3255 Fax: (0161) 275-3354
Email: Japan.Centre@man.ac.uk
http://www.man.ac.uk/MAN/JapanCentre/
D, MA in Applied Ling., International Relations (T); MEd, TESOL (T)
Centre for International Studies in Education, University of Newcastle upon
Tyne
Newcastle upon Tyne, NEI 7RU, Tel: (0191) 222-6377
Fax: (0191) 222-5691 E-mail: cise-education@ncl.ac.uk
http://www.ncl.ac.uk/~nciseedu/
MEd in TESOL; MA Linguistics for TESL, International Cultural
Exchange, International Studies; LLM International Trade
The University of Nottingham, School of Education
Nottingham, NG8 1BB Tel: (0115) 951-4543 Fax: (0115) 846-6600
Email: educationenquiries@nottingham.ac.uk
http://www.nottingham.ac.uk/education/
MA in ELT, ED (T)
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Oxford University, Oriental Institute
Pusey Lane. Oxford, OX1 2LE Tel: (0186) 527-8200 Fax: (0186)
527-8190
Email: orient@orinst.ox.ac.uk Website: http://www.orinst.ox.ac.uk
MLitt, DPhil in Oriental Studies (R)
Centre for Applied Language Studies, University of Reading
Whiteknights, PO Box 241, Reading, RG6 6WB
Tel: (0118) 931-8511 Fax: (0118) 975-6506
Email: CALS@reading.ac.uk Website: http://www.rdg.ac.uk
MA in TEFL (also by distance), D in TEFL
Sheffield University
Taught Graduate Admissions Office, 14 Favell Road, Sheffield, S10
2TN
Tel: (0114) 22-24178 Email: pg.admissions@sheffield.ac.uk
http://www.shef.ac.uk/~eas
The School of East Asian is the most prestigious faculty of its kind in
Europe. Distance Learning courses include Postgraduate C/D/MA in
Japanese Language and Society, and MA in Advanced Japanese
Studies. These courses are also offered full-time on campus. The
certificate and Diploma courses require no previous Japanese
language ability. Students with Level 3 of the Japanese Proficiency
Test can enrol in the master’s. For the MA in Advanced Japanese
Studies, students are required to have passed Level 2 of the
proficiency test. Also available on campus: MSc in East Asian
Business.
Stirling University, Scottish Centre for Japanese Studies
Stirling, Scotland, FK9 4LA Tel: (01786) 46-6080 Fax: (01786) 46-6088
Email: j.d.crump@stirling.ac.uk Website:
http://www.stir.ac.uk/japanese/
MLitt, PhD in JS. Currently not offering any taught Japanese
programmes, though there is opportunity for research.
Sussex University
Postgraduate Admissions, Sussex House, Falmer, Brighton
Sussex, BN1 9RH Tel: (01273) 67-8412 Fax: (01273) 67-8335
Email: PG.Admissions@sussex.ac.uk Website: http://www.susx.ac.uk
MLitt, PhD in JP; MPhil/DPhil in AS (R); MA in International
Relations
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Warwick University
Coventry, CV4 7AL Tel: (01203) 52-4585 Fax: (01203) 46-1606
Email: pgadmissions@admin.warwick.ac.uk
http://www.warwick.ac.uk
MA, MPhil, PhD. in ELT (R); D, MA in TESOL and Administration (T)
The University of York
The EFL Secretary, Language Teaching Centre
University of York, York, YO10 5DD, Tel: (01904) 432480
Fax: (01904) 432481 Email: efl@york.ac.uk
Distance learning, MA teaching English to young learners.
Japanese studies-other
The Japan Foundation Nihongo Centre
27 Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7QT
Tel: (0207) 838-9955 Fax: (020) 7838-9966
Email: info@nihongocentre.org.uk http://www.nihongocentre.org.uk
This is a support centre for teachers of Japanese throughout the UK.
It has an inset training programme, annual language-related grant
programmes, an advisory service, library, and resource centre. It also
offers school visits and summer refresher courses for secondary school
teachers. Information on adult education courses and private tutors
is also available.
The Japan Language Centre
27 Knightsbridge, London, W1X 7QT Tel: (0207) 838-9955
Publishes a list of Japanese language courses throughout Britain.
The Japanese Local Government Centre, London
Free Japanese classes at all levels for former JETs. Classes are held
in the CLAIR office at Whitehall. Space, however, is limited. For
more information, contact the centre directly at: (0207) 839-8500.
The School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London
Offers evening classes in Japanese and other Asian and African
languages. Classes generally have less than 12 people and are
usually 6:30–8:30pm on weekday evenings and 10:00am–12:30pm on
Saturday. Fees are from £195 a term (one class a week for three
months). Contact the School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS),
University of London, Thornhaugh St., Russell Square, London,
WC1H 0XG Website: http://www.soas.ac.uk
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MBA in Europe
European Masters in Management (EAP),
A three-year course in management studies with each year spent
in a different country. In addition, you will undertake three
in-company placements lasting approximately 3 months in each
country. Those interested must take the European Admission Test
(EMAT) and go through a series of interviews. Test dates vary from
country to country. http://www.eap.net
EAP Paris -6 Avenue de la Porte de Champerret, 75838,
Paris, CEDEX 17 Tel: (33) 1-44-09-33-00 Email: drouach@eap.net
ESCP-EAP Graduate School of Management Oxford
12 Merton St. Oxford, OX1 4JH, UK Tel: (44) 1865-263205
Fax: (44) 1865-251960 Email: ukadmission@escp-eap.net
EAP Berlin -Europa Centre, Breitscheidplatz, 1000 Berlin 30,
Germany Tel: (49) 30-245-80-20 Fax: (49) 30-245-80-231
EAP Madrid- Arroyofresno 1, 28035 Madrid, Spain
Tel: (33) 1-386-25-11 Fax: (33) 1-373-92-29
Scholarships
University of London
Subjects: Humanities and Social Sciences for taught master's degrees
Duration: 1 year. Value: £6,000 per year. Open to: candidates of all
nationalities with a first degree. Applications: by May 1st to the
Registrar
Marshall Aid Commemorative Commission, Association of Commonwealth
Universities
36 Gordon Square London, WC1H OPF
Tel: (020) 7380-6700 Email: info@acu.ac.uk
http://www.acu.ac.uk/marshall
Subjects: any leading to the award of a British degree. Tenable: by
American graduates at British universities. Duration: 2 academic
years.Value: approximately £16,500 per year. Applications: by October
15 th in the year preceding the award. Applications and information
are available at British Embassies and Consulates across the United
States. Electronic application forms are available on the website.
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The Japan Foundation
17 Old Park Lane, London W1Y 3LG, Tel: 020-7499 4726
Japan Foundation Grant Programmes include a fellowship
programme for doctoral candidates.
Additional contacts
Arts and Humanities Research Board
10 Carlton House, London, SW1Y 5AH
Tel: (020) 7969-5256 Fax: (020) 7969-5413
Email: p.andrews@ahrb.ac.uk Website: http://www.ahrb.ac.uk
The National Union of Students
461 Holloway Rd., London, N7 6LJ
Tel: (0207) 272-8900 Fax: (0207) 263-5713
Email: nusuk@nus.org.uk Website: http://www.nus.org.uk
The British Academy, Postgraduate Studentship Office,
10 Carlton House Terrace, London, SW1Y 5AH,
Tel: (0207) 969-5200, Fax: (0171) 969-5300
Email: secretary@britac.ac.uk
Association of Commonwealth Universities
John Foster House, 36 Gordon Square, London, WC1H OPF
Tel: (0207) 387-8572 Fax: (0207) 387-2655, Email: info@acu.ac.uk
Provides a series of short papers for students considering study
abroad in Australia, Canada, New Zealand, South Africa, and the
United Kingdom. There is also an awards series, which includes
Awards for Postgraduate Study at Commonwealth Universities
(1997-99 ed.), and Awards for University Teachers and Research
Workers.
Publications
Higher Education in the United Kingdom, Longman Group Ltd.
Studying and Living in Britain: the British Council's Guide For
Overseas Students and Visitors, Northcote House.
British Universities' Guide to Graduate Studies, and Awards for
Postgraduate Study at Commonwealth Universities, and The Guide to
Postgraduate Studentships in the Humanities. Department for
Education and Employment, Publications Centre, PO Box 6927,
London E3 3NZ
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The United States of America
The academic year usually runs from September through May,
and is divided into two semesters. However, this may vary. Expect to
pay outrageous sums of money to study at most Ivy League schools.
Scholarships are available, but if you are an international student
studying in America, expect to pay a high price regardless of where
you go. Search engine programs, which select schools according to
your profile, can be found at the following web sites:
• http://www.usnews.com/usnews/edu/beyond/bcrank/htm
Provides rankings of graduate’s schools in all fields of study.
• http://www.apply.embark.com
Allows you to apply to most top universities (in and outside
of the U.S.) online.
• www.globalcomputing.com/universy.html
This is an active map and archive of higher education
institution web-sites.
A Step Beyond JET is a good source for information on graduate
programs with an Asian, Japanese or TEFL focus. The book is a
publication of the American Nationality Group (part of AJET), and
costs ¥1000 plus ¥310 postage (slightly more for non-AJET members).
To get a copy, contact your local AJET representative.
Japan-US Educational Commission
Sanno Grand Bldg. 206, 2-14-2 Nagata-cho, Chiyoda-ku,
Tokyo 100-0014 Tel: (03) 3580-3231 Fax: (03) 3580-1217
Email: eis@jusec.go.jp Website: http://www.jusec.go.jp
The Japan-US Educational Commission is a highly recommended
source of information on American graduate schools.
NAFSA: Association of International Educators
1860 19 th St. NW Washington DC 20009
Testing
Those interested in applying to pursue a master's degree in the
United States should be sure to sit the necessary exams: GRE, GMAT,
LSAT, TOEFL, etc. These tests may be taken at centres throughout
Japan, and courses are offered in Tokyo among other places.
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The GRE and GMAT
For general information on the GRE, contact Graduate Record
Examinations (GRE), Educational Testing Service, PO Box 6000,
Princeton, NJ 08541-6000, Fax: (609) 771-7906, Website:
http://www.gre.org
For general information on the GMAT, contact Graduate
Management Admission Test (GMAT), Educational Testing Service,
PO Box 6103, Princeton, NJ 08541-6103, Tel: 1-800-GMAT-NOW,
Fax: (609) 883-4339, Website: http://www.gmat.org
For information on GRE and GMAT preparatory courses offered
in Japan contact Princeton Review in Tokyo at (03) 3376-4669. The
Council of International Education Exchange also provides a
pre-recorded telephone message in English providing information on
both the GMAT and the GRE at (03) 5467-5520. To obtain an
application form, send a self-addressed stamped envelope (22X28cm)
to the address below. The return postage required for the GMAT
exam is ¥190 for one copy, and ¥270 for two copies. The GRE exam
requires postage of ¥270 for one copy and ¥390 for two copies. Send to
Council's TOEFL Division, Cosmos Aoyama B1, 5-53-67 Jingumae
Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150.
The LSAT
For those interested in pursing a master's degree in law, contact the
Japan-United States Commission at (03) 3580-3231. To receive an
application for the LSAT exam post a self-addressed stamped A4
envelope, including postage of ¥390 to the Japan-United States
Commission, Sanno Grand Bldg. 206, 2-14-2 Nagatacho, Chiyoda-ku,
Tokyo, 100-0014. Vist their website at http://www.jusec.org.
http://www.lsat.org
TEFL
International House Teacher Training, Centre for English Studies
330 Seventh Avenue New York, NY 10001, USA
Tel: (1) 212-629-7300 Fax: (1) 212-736-7950
Email: ces_newyork@cescorp.com
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Programs of interest
The Japanese Forum
Held annually in Tokyo for prospective MBA students.
The Japan MBA Forum Office, Institute for International Business
Communication, Sanno Grand Bldg. 9th Fl., 2-14-2 Nagatacho,
Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Tel: (03) 5521-5874, Fax: (03) 5521-5928.
The School for International Training
A popular venue for former JETs wishing to further their studies.
Admissions Office, PO Box 676 Kipling Rd. Brattleborough,
VT 05302-0676. Tel: 1-800-336-1616 Fax: 1-802-258-3500
Email: admissions@sit.edu Website: http://www.sit.edu
Scholarships and Grants
Rotary Foundation
1560 Sherman Ave. Evanston IL, 60201
Tel: (847) 866-3000 Fax: (847) 328-8554 Website: http://www.rotary.org
Scholarships in international studies: (a) 1 Year Ambassadorial, (b) 2
or 3 Multi-year Ambassadorial, (c) 6 month Cultural Ambassadorial.
Eligibility: Open to citizens of any country where there is a Rotary
Club regardless of age. Applicants should have completed at least
two years of university coursework or equivalent professional
experience prior to beginning scholarship studies. Rotarians and
their kin are not eligible. The program favours students from
developing countries. Maximum possible award: (a) up to $23,000, (b)
$11,000 per year, (c) up to $10,000/up to $17,000. Academic Year and
Cultural scholarships cover funding for specific expenses only.
Deadlines vary, from March–July at least one year in advance,
through your local Rotary Club
George Washington University, Elliot School of International Affairs
Stuart Hall 101, Washington DC, 20052
A one-year student exchange program with Kansai University in
Osaka, Japan, that includes a scholarship Subjects: Japanese, history,
economics, and political science. Value: tuition of $16,400 airfare and
living expenses of $800 per month. Applications: by March 1 st of the
preceding year.
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Institute of International Education, USIA Fulbright Awards and
Scholarships
IIE, USIA Fulbright Student Program809 United Nations Plaza New
York NY, 10017-3580Tel: (212) 984-5330 Email: info@iie.org Website:
http://www.iie.org
Subjects: all fields of study in the United States, graduate studies.
Open to: candidates preferably under the age of 35. Foreign students
should apply to the Bi-national Educational Commission or
Foundation in their home country, or to the Cultural Affairs Office in
the United States Embassy. IIE offices in the United States cannot
accept direct applications from foreign applicants. American
students should apply to their campus Fulbright Program Advisors by
October 31st. IIE also has offices in Hong Kong, Mexico, and Thailand.
Check with the nearest American Embassy.
Monterey Institute of International Studies, JET Alumni Scholarships
425 Van Buren St. Monterey CA, 93940 Tel: (831) 647-4123
Fax: (831) 647-6405 Email: admit@miis.edu http://www.miis.edu
Subjects: International Policy Studies, International Business (MBA),
International Public Administration, International Environ-mental
Policy, TESL (MA), Teaching Foreign Languages (MA), Translation
and Interpretation (MA), Commercial Diplomacy (MA). All programs
except for TESL require the study of a second language. Duration:
half tuition for 2 years. Applications: by March 1st for students
entering the following summer or by October 1st for students wishing
to begin in the spring.
Women's Research and Education Institute, Congressional Fellowships on
Women and Public Policy,
Fellowship Program Director 1700 18 th St. NW, DC 20009
For those interested in pursuing public policy/women's studies at the
graduate level, this award is tenable in Washington, DC. Fellows are
required to work for credit as legislative aids in congressional offices
and as committee staff. International Fellowships for full-time
graduate or postgraduate study or research in the United States are
awarded to women who are not US citizens or permanent residents.
Applicants must hold the equivalent of a US bachelor's degree on or
before December 31 st, 2002. Stipend: US$16,000. Applications
requested August 1 st to November 15 th.
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Alpha Delta Kappa, International Teacher Education Scholarship
1615 W. 92nd St., Kansas City, MO 64114, Tel: (816) 363-5525
Fax: (816) 363-4010E-mail: alphadeltakappa@worldnet.att.net
http://www.alphadeltakappa.org
Open to: Women aged 20 to 35 with no dependants, who are non-U.S.
citizens residing outside of the U.S. during the application and
selection period. Applications: by January 1st American Association of University Women
Educational International Fellowships, 2201 N. Dodge St.,
Dept. 89 Iowa City, IA 52243-4030 Web site: http://www.aauw.org
Promotes education and equity for all women. Many fellowships and
grants are awarded each year. Visit their web site to learn more.
University of Hawaii & The Japan-America Institute of Management Science
6660 Hawaii Kai Drive Honolulu, HI 96825-1108
Tel: (808) 395-2314 Fax: (808) 396-7112 Email: info@jaims.org
http://www.jaims.org
15-month Japan-focused MBA. At least one JET scholarship of
¥500,000 is available per year. For information call (03) 3730-3116.
The application deadline is February 1st for US citizens, and January
13th for other countries.
National Women's Studies Association
7100 Baltimore Ave., Suite 301 College Park, MD 20740,
Tel: (301) 403-0524/0525 Fax: (301) 403-4137
Email: nwsa@umail.umd.edu
Graduate scholarships for general, lesbian and Jewish women's
studies.
Sallie Mae's CASHE Database (http://www.salliemae.com)
Receive a list of private scholarships, grants, fellowships and
work-study programs based on your electronic profile:
Financial Aid http://www.finaid.com
Association of Graduate Students http://www.nagps.org
Publications
A Guide to Scholarships, Fellowships and Grants: a Selected
Bibliography. Institute of International Education.
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Travel Advice
Travelling, for many of us, is an integral part of our JET
experience. The chance to get out and explore other
countries—or just to take it easy on a beach somewhere—is too
good to miss. This chapter provides information to help you get
the most out of your vacation time and money. It also contains
practical advice on a range of travel issues, from visas and
health to insurance, transport and more. The accompanying
travelogues, all of which were written by JETs, and cover more
than sixty countries, are intended to provide snapshots of great
locations. Although the travelogues are subjective, I hope they
are also interesting and informative.
A big “thank you” to all the past and present JETs who have
contributed their time, talent, ideas, and effort into this section
of Jet & Beyond.
217

General Travel Advice
Read your travel guide THOROUGHLY before you set off,
especially sections detailing warnings/scams etc. Remember that most
people travel safely without a hitch but prior knowledge will help you
to deal with any difficult situations should they arise. Also, careful
planning can make a budget stretch much further.
Visit your local travel or health clinic and update your
immunisations. Some inoculations need to be administered over a
period of weeks, so inquire early. Label the bottles and carry a copy of
the prescription for any medications you carry. If possible, try to get
your immunisations done before you leave home. Inquire early to find
out if you need a visa for where you're going. When arriving in a new
country make sure to register with police, if required, or to get any
necessary internal travel permits.
Never offer a bribe. If that is what is obviously required, ask
whether there is a “service fee applicable” or, better still, get a local
resident to inquire on your behalf. Watch out for customs officials at
small, remote countries border posts. They might cause you problems
just because they are bored. Even if you are examined with
exasperating thoroughness, handle yourself in a patient and civil
manner. Do not joke around, display irritation, take pictures, write
notes in a diary, or do any other apparently innocent act that could be
twisted into charges of espionage. It has happened to JETs before!
It is a good idea to bring at least one set of light but reasonably
presentable clothes in the event that you need to make an emergency
trip to an embassy or government office.
Choose someone at home that you can trust to be your contact
person. Make a rough itinerary for them, including countries,
approximate dates, addresses etc. If you're going somewhere remote
take the additional precaution of registering with the nearest embassy
or consulate. If you want to receive mail you can use AMEX, or Poste
Restante offices worldwide. Better still, get an email address that you
can use internationally, so it is possible to look up and send emails all
over the world.
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Travel books get heavy, so consider bringing only copies of
essential pages. Carry only a copy of your address book to save a lot of
frustration if it gets lost or stolen.
Overall, remember travelling takes patience, especially in many
parts of Africa and Asia. A simple lunch at a restaurant can take up to
two hours. There is little point in stressing yourself out because you
are not going to change a society during your visit.
Making your own travel agenda
Before you head to the airport, it is important to put some
thought and research into where you are going. What are your
expectations? Do you want to see the famous sights, or go off the
beaten trail? Do you want to travel in style with several friends, or go
alone and play it one day at a time?
Choosing travel partners and setting budgets basically comes
with practice. Many friendships have been put to the test by the
stresses of travel: negotiating accommodation /eating arrangements/
whether to stay or move on, etc. Try to agree on basic itineraries
before you depart and remember to remain flexible. As for making an
agenda, it is a good idea to consult with travel agents and talk with
friends who have taken similar trips.
The information that you can get from those who have gone
before you will be invaluable. When it comes to researching your
travel destination, remember that there is a vast amount of travel
literature out there, be it in printed form or on the Internet. The
chances are that, no matter where you want to go or what you want to
do, there will be a website/book for you to reference.
Travel magazines and newsletters
Transitions Abroad
Published every two months, this magazine has been running for
more than twenty years. Each issue deals with a different topic of
interest to independent travellers for details write to PO Box 1300,
Amherst, MA 01004-1300, U.S. (fax: 413 256 0373) or
www.Transitionsabroad.com
The Globe
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A somewhat idiosyncratic magazine produced by the London based
Globetrotters' Club. It is free if you join the Globetrotters’ Club (BCM
Roving, London, WC1N 3XX, UK). The club aims to help travellers
network information http://www.globetrotters.co.uk
Planet Talk
Free quarterly newsletter put out by Lonely Planet. It's full of tips
from travellers, authors, and the owner/founders of Lonely Planet,
Tony and Maureen Wheeler. Simply ask to be put on the mailing list.
See http://www.lonelyplanet.com or write to Lonely Planet, 10 Barley
Mow Passage, London, W4 4PH, UK; or at Embarcadero West, 155
Filbert St., Suite 251, Oakland CA 94607 USA
National Geographic Traveller
Manages to be both glossy and informative and is a monthly
publication there's an online edition at
http://www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler. A one-year subscription
for the print edition costs $25.50. Full details can be found on the
same website.
The South American Explorer.
This magazine is produced by the South American Explorers, a
non-profit organisation founded in 1977. It contains articles on
everything from history and archaeology to practical advice for the
do-it-yourself traveller. A subscription costs $22 per year, plus an
extra $10 for subscribers outside the U.S. explorer@saexplorers.org
126 Indian Creek Rd., Ithaca, NY, 14850, USA, Tel/Fax: (607)
277-0488. http://www.saexplorers.org.
ABROAD
It is a Japanese monthly publication found in most bookstores but is
easily deciphered. Tour packages are listed for all over the world.
¥450
Farang (meaning “foreigner” in Thai)
French language newsletters are clear, concise reports and an
excellent source for recent information on Southeast Asia. Write to
Jose Bernard, La Rue 8, B.A. 261, Braives, Belgium.Tel: (019) 69 9823.
Send a donation for a sample copy.
Globetrotters Magazine, along with Cocktail
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For French speakers who join ABM (Aventure du Bout du Monde, 11
bis rue Maison Diue, 75014 Paris, France, Tel: (1) 43-35-08-95)
Travel books
The Alternative Travel Directory - The Complete Guide to Travelling,
Studying & Living Overseas.
A gold-mine of information with address-packed sections on topics
including special interest vacations, responsible travel programs and
independent travel resources. Published by the editors of the
Transitions Abroad magazine, it costs $19.95 plus postage. For
information contact Transitions Abroad.
The Travellers Handbook
(Melissa Shales, The Globe Pequot Press, USA, 1988). Another nifty
little reference book packed with addresses and annotated
bibliographies, vaccine tables and so on.
OAG Worldwide
(Church St., Dunstable, Beds, LU5 4HB, UK, Fax: 44(0) 1582-695230)
A series of quarterly updated travel reference books, their Guide to
International Travel has up-to-date information on airport facilities,
visa regulations, customs etc, for 215 countries worldwide. The OAG
Cruise and Ferry Guide lists most of the world’s accessible shipping
services, with timetables, cruise ship itineraries and
passenger-carrying freighters.
The OAG Air Travel Atlas shows all possible world air routings
pictorially, while the OAG World Airways Guide is the travel agents’
bible of all world flight details. In Japan, call OAG Worldwide office.
Tel: (03) 3573-3191, Fax: (03) 3573-3199.
The Thomas Cook European Timetable
This is extremely useful for anyone travelling on a Eurail pass. It lists
almost 50,000 passenger rail service schedules together with
passenger shipping schedules for every European country. Thomas
Cook also publishes an Overseas Timetable, which provides
information on railway, road and shipping services for America, Africa,
Asia and Australasia. Both books are available in the major
bookstores in Japan at a cost of ¥2750. Or order direct from the
Forsyth Travel Library at www.forsyth.com, E-mail: forsyth@aol.com
each book costs $32.90 including postage and packing. The European
Timetable is published in the UK on the first day of each month; the
Overseas Timetable is published six times per year: January, March,
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May, July, September and November.
Alternative travel guides
Moon Travel Handbooks
(Moon Publications). Include cultural, historical and political
information. Written by experienced travellers this series is
particularly good on Asia, Latin America and the South Pacific (the
single volume South Pacific Handbook is particularly recommended).
www.moon.com
Rick Steves' Country Guides
(John Muir) deal with Europe and contain good information on
transport, accommodation and food for those on a budget. Updated
annually. http://www.ricksteves.com.
Ulysses Travel Guides
(Ulysses Travel Publications). This is for the up-market traveller.
They provide cultural, historical, and artistic information.
www.ulyssesguides.com
Nelles Guides
(Seven Hills Books). They are a relatively new addition to the travel
guide market. Good photographs and, in addition to the standard
material, there are essays on native cooking, art and festivals.
Bradt Guides
(Globe Pequot Press). Focuses on some of the less travelled parts of
the world (Rwanda, for example). Good maps and well-written
sections on local culture and natural history.
http://www.bradt-travelguides.com/system/index.html
Recommended on-line travel sites
http://www.frommers.com Encyclopaedia of Travel.
http://www.fodors.com Fodders Travel.
http://www.roughguides.com Rough Guides
http://www.budgettravel.com Budget Travel.
http://www.got.com Global Online Travel
http://www.vtourist.com Virtual Tourist
http://www.cnn.com/TRAVEL CNN Travel
http://www.travlang.com/languages Languages for travel
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http://www.iagora.com Networking service for travellers
http://www.ricksteves.com European travel info, good on rail
http://www.worldtravelguide.net Comprehensive travel info
http://www.railserve.com Worldwide rail travel
information
http://www.netcafeguide.com Internet cafes around the world
http://www.artoftravel.com European and World
Backpacking
http://travel.epicurious.com Conde Nast budget travel info
http://www.towd.com World-wide Directory, tourism offices
http://www.city.net European info, city and subway maps
http://www.iyhf.org Database of hostels in 75 countries
Getting There
Air travel
The airline industry has been particularly affected by the September 2001
terrorist attacks on New York and Washington, D.C. The whole industry is in
a state of flux. In the US and throughout the world, heightened airport
security, earlier check-in times (in many cases, four hours instead of two) and
greater restrictions on carry-on baggage have been just some of the immediate
changes. As new legislation takes effect and new security equipment is
installed in airports, the security measures that surround flying are likely to
intensify. Now, more than ever, it is necessary to be aware of your airline's
security arrangements well in advance of your flight date.
Regardless of when you are flying, here are some general points
to bear in mind. Ensure that you understand how the ticket you
intend to buy actually works. Discounted air tickets tend to very
inflexible—if you cancel or change a discounted ticket you will almost
certainly incur a financial penalty. There are also often restrictions on
the minimum and maximum amount of time you must be away.
Many countries will not let you in unless you already have an
onward ticket out of the country. If you don't know what your plans
are at that time, either buy the cheapest ticket to somewhere nearby
or buy a flexible ticket that can be altered if necessary.
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Do not forget to re-confirm tickets at least 72 hours prior to
departure, or else you could lose your seat. In many countries where
the infrastructure is less than modern, you can save yourself a
potential headache by reconfirming your departure immediately upon
arrival. On the day of your flight, check-in with plenty of time to spare
in order to avoid being “bumped” (losing one’s place).
In the US, if you are bumped because of overbooking and the
airline fails to get you to your destination within four hours of your
original scheduled arrival time, you are entitled to compensation of
$400 or double the one-way fare, whichever is greater. Note that if you
are bumped because of a change of aircraft or weather you won't be
entitled to compensation. Also, the level of compensation varies from
country to country. On certain airlines, notably in Western countries,
cancellation of flights, delays, and bumping can be to the advantage of
unhurried passengers. In such cases, volunteering to be bumped can
get you vouchers for free tickets, though before you volunteer make
sure that you are guaranteed a seat on a later flight and not just put
on standby.
This system is not applicable in most of Asia. Indeed, in many
countries one should almost expect a delay of a day or two.
Sometimes, there is a blackboard rather than computers at check-in,
so it is first come, first serve. Bumping in China occurs when there
happens to be more boarding passes than seats. There is no
compensation, so check in early.
If you have no ticket, you can still sometimes get on. You may
even gain a discount by turning up at the airport and queuing for a
standby (issued when there are unfilled seats or cancellations). This
is popular even where no discount exists, e.g. in China, where booking
is difficult.
Treat your ticket as if it was cash. If your ticket is lost or stolen
contact both the airline and the police at once. Although airlines are
not legally obliged to replace your ticket, most will do so after making
some inquiries. A police report is likely to speed up the replacement
process. Before your journey begins, photocopy your tickets and keep
them in a safe place. If you feel you are being treated unfairly by an
airline you can ask to see their Conditions of Carriage. You have a
right to see it. This document is essentially the contract you make
with the airline when you buy your ticket (many, but not all, of the
conditions can be found on the ticket).
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Knowledge of your rights will help you should you run into any
difficulties. Terry Trippler, an expert on air travel, has compiled
'Rules of the Air', consumer-oriented catalos of airlines rules and
regulations. See http://www.OneTravel.com. Similarly detailed
information is also available, on an airline-by airline basis, from the
US Air Transportation Association at http://www.air-transport.org
(1301 Pennsylvania Ave., Suite 1100, Washington, DC 20004.)
Round the world tickets
'Round the World' tickets are a popular option for many travellers.
Although more expensive than a basic return flight, RTW tickets
allow you to do just what their name suggests. You can go anywhere
the carrying airlines go as long as you don't backtrack. When buying
your ticket you decide the number of stopovers you wish to make and,
in most cases, you must complete your journey in a year.
As the popularity of RTW tickets has grown in recent years, the
number of travel agents specialising in this field has increased. This is
another area of the travel business where it definitely pays to shop
around. Seven Seas Travel of Yokohama offers a round the world
deals with a maximum of 15 stopovers. The itinerary should include
one Pacific and one Atlantic crossing. The ticket is valid for one year
and there is no charge to change the dates of your flights. The price
depends on the mileage of your itinerary, for example, 29000 miles
costs from $1400. E-mail: travel@yk.rim.or.jp if you visit
http://www.airtreks.com you can create an itinerary for round the
world trips.
Avia Travel in San Francisco sells double back tickets. The
ticket might be something like Japan>SE Asia>Japan>US. This
works out as a great deal, and gives you the “free holiday” in Asia
instead of your home country. Avia Travel also offers some good deals
on "Going Home the Long Way". You can choose to go home via Asia
or the South Pacific or via Europe/India/Africa. Indeed there are so
many possible itineraries that you should contact them direct with
your preferred dates and countries. http://www.aviatravel.com or
email at sales@aviatravel.com
If you are departing from Japan but live outside the major cities
then you may want to check out the local airports for international
flights. For example, from Toyama, there are four scheduled flights
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to Seoul as well as one a week to East Siberia. Korean Air or Asiana
connects many regional airports to Seoul.
You can use this as a springboard to worldwide destinations.
Although the prices may seem a little more expensive initially, you
might save both time and money by departing from Japan.
Air hitch
There is now a special company that specializes in finding a cheap
place on a flight somewhere near your destination within a five-day
period that you specify (unfortunately this service is not available
from Japan). Register this period ahead of time, and then call back
near the date to find where and when you will be flying. For example,
you may ask for Brussels, and be given a ticket to Amsterdam.
Apparently 90% of customers get their requested destination or
within reasonable ‘commuting distance’. Obviously, this system works
best for the busy trans-Atlantic routes, where cities tend to be close
together. Fixed price on US (east coast) to Europe is $169 one-way.
Contact Air hitch at 2790 Broadway, Suite 100, NY, NY 10025 USA.
http://www.airhitch.org
Air courier tickets
Sending urgent packages by express airmail will take a minimum
of three days. This is just not fast enough for some business
documents, so a niche has arisen for “air couriers,” who are normal
travellers prepared to travel light. The courier company uses the
traveller’s baggage allowance for their urgent material. All you have
to do is 1) not be late, and 2) hand over the baggage to a
representative at the other end. In return, you can save up to 85%
off the regular airline ticket price. Unlike normal tickets, the price
gets cheaper the later you book, if a place is available. Occasionally
you can even get free tickets if you call at the last moment and do not
mind where you go.
Courier flights will only operate on major commercial routings.
The most common ones are the trans-Atlantic and trans-Pacific routes.
There are also various routes out of Hong Kong and Singapore. The
majority of flights are sold on a fixed period return basis, anywhere
from one week to six months depending on the location. The
companies are not travel agents, but booking ahead is suggested if you
have a specific destination and travel date in mind.
Air Courier Travel http://www.courier.org
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Suggested reading
Air Courier Bargains: How to Travel Around the World for Next to
Nothing. Kelly Monaghan. (1995, 5th Ed.)
The Intrepid Traveller. 240 pages of clearly written advice, anecdotes
and practical details. It costs $14.95 plus p&p. PO Box 531, Branford,
Connecticut 06405. Tel: (203) 4885341.
http://www.theintrepidtraveler.com
Freighter Travel
Contrary to popular belief, it is possible to go home by cargo ship.
However, you really have to want to do so, as the costs are steep
(usually between US$80-$175 per day of passage plus between
$10-$210 in port taxes and insurance). Even from Japan, flying is
usually cheaper.
There is no deck passage, just cabins with private shower and
bath. The number of freight lines accepting passengers is limited.
Despite high prices and unreliable itineraries (the ship will miss a
port if there is nothing to pick up), most cabins are filled six months
ahead of departure and are often sold on a round-trip cruise basis,
rather than as port-to-port hops. There are several agencies that
specialize in freighter travel, but all tend to offer the same handful of
routes.
Carolyn’s Cruises
32 Garner Drive, Novato, CA 94947, USA. Tel: (415) 897-4039.
Fax: (415) 898-0455
Freighter World Cruises, Inc.
180 So. Lake #335S, Pasadena, CA 91101, USA, Tel: (818) 449-3106
produces a bi-weekly Freighter Space Advisory pamphlet that lists a
range of companies. Assumes a US starting point in most cases, even
for the Japan-Ecuador service.
Publications
Freighter Travel News. Freighter Travel Club of America, 3524 Harts
Lake Rd, Roy, WA 98580, USA
Ford's Travel Guides: Freighter Travel. Updated twice a year.
English speaking discount travel agents
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Companies with outlets throughout Japan
A ‘cross travel http://www.across-travel.com
No.1 Travel http://www.no1-travel.com
STA Travel http://www.statravel.co.jp
Kyoto
Milky Way. Phone: (075) 256 2652 Fax: (075) 255 5754.
milky-way@mnc.biglobe.ne.jp
Nagasaki
NTA Nippon Travel. Phone: (0958) 24 5416. Fax: (0958) 25 8552.
nagasaki-office@nta.co.jp
Okinawa
Air Okinawa. Phone: (098) 867 0166. Fax: (098) 866 7662.
honten@air-okinawa.com
Osaka
GS Travel. Phone: (06) 6281 1230. Fax: (06) 6281 1255.
info@gs-travel.com
Time Travel. Phone: (06) 6271 7121. Fax: (06) 6271 7174.
time@osaka.email.ne.jp
Sapporo
H.I.S. Phone: (01) 1222 3810. Fax: (01) 1222 3819. info@gbi.co.jp
Northern Travel. Phone: (01) 1232 5400. Fax: (01) 1232 5402.
tourr@northern.club.ne.jp
Tokyo
Air Net Travel. Phone: (03) 5456 5677. Fax: (03) 5456 5678.
watanabe@airnetjapan.com
Can Tour. Phone: (03) 3352 5200. Fax: (03) 3352 5225.
info@cantour.co.jp
Flex International. Phone: (03) 3233 8861. Fax: (03) 3233 0228.
ocha@flex-inter.co.jp
GM Travel. Phone: (03) 3358 5126. Fax: (03) 5269 7699.
reservations@gmtravel.net
Hit Travel. Phone: (03) 3473 9040. Fax: (03) 3473 9041.
sales@hittravel.co.jp
J-Booker. Phone: (03) 5330 1282. Fax: (03) 5330 0048.
jbooker@flex-inter.co.jp
Just Travel. Phone: (03) 3362 3441. Fax: (03) 3362 3933.
K & K Travel. Phone: (03) 3590 6711. Fax: (03) 3590 6713.
Starlight Travel. Phone: (03) 3446 1775. Fax: (03) 3446 1973.
starlight@gol.com
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Sweet Travel. Phone: (03) 3377 7200. info@sweettravel.co.jp
Travel Hero Corporation. Phone (03) 3555 5888. Fax: (03) 3551 3100
info@travel-hero.co.jp
Yokohama
Seven Seas Travel. Phone: (045) 451 3221. Fax: (045) 451 3229.
reservation@sevenseasltd.com
The Essentials
Visas
Before travelling, make sure you understand all the visa
requirements. Being turned back at passport control because you lack
the correct documents is not much fun. Contact the embassy to check
what you need and how long the processing will take (see the Visa and
Embassies section in this book for details about contacting specific
embassies).
Many embassies refuse to accept applications by mail, as they do
not want to be responsible for lost passports. This means that if you
cannot go in person to the consulates on a weekday morning (and, in
some cases, hang around for a couple of days to collect it), you will
need to get a travel agent to do it for you. Each country has a different
procedure, but you will need:
• Passport photos
• Official application form(s)
• Your passport
• Copies of your ARC (gaijin card)
• A fee
• Flight numbers/copies of tickets. Onward or return tickets
are commonly required. Longer visas may require you to
prove “sufficient funds.”
Other important documents
Keep a second and third copy of your address book and send the
original home. Losing your one and only address book can be a
heartbreaking experience. Also, make two photocopies of the
important parts of your passport: the front few pages, plus your
Japanese visa, extensions and re-entry permit if you are coming back.
Your passport must remain valid until well after your trip.
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Some countries stipulate a certain minimum period. Leave one
copy with a friend and carry the other separate from your passport.
If you lose your passport, this may help speed the re-issue process.
Copies of your birth certificate, credit cards, airline tickets, travel
documents, etc. may also prove useful in tricky situations. Bring
your alien registration card with you when leaving Japan.
An international driver’s license is always useful. You can get
one from your home country’s motoring organization(s). ISIC
Student Cards can save you a lot of money in certain countries and
get you substantial discounts on international flights. They can be
bought through STA for $22 or you can order via the Internet at
http://www.counciltravel.com.
Valuables
The biggest travel worry is always where to keep your passport
and money. Do not keep them in a backpack or waist bag as these are
too visible and easily removed. If you are in higher-risk areas, and
feel vulnerable, wear a money belt beneath your clothes. This should
contain some of your traveller’s checks, and other important but
replaceable documents such as student cards, driver’s license and a
copy of your address book. Carry a certain amount of cash in pockets
but keep your real valuables (passport, credit cards, high value
traveller’s checks) in the deep pockets of a pair of underclothes. The
money belt will hopefully be protection enough, but keeping real
valuables hidden could prove indispensable should you be harried by a
determined, threatening attacker who is unsatisfied with just the
cash in your pockets.
Take care when putting valuables in a hotel safe. Make a list of
what you have and, when it is returned, check that it is all there.
One JET reported, “A Malaysian hostel returned my bundle of
traveller’s checks, but three or four were missing from the middle of
the stack. By the time I checked, I was in Thailand.” American
Express TCs are refundable if you get a police report and take it to an
Amex office. Be more careful about cash and credit cards (used, but
not stolen) in such situations.
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Money
Carrying traveller’s checks (TCs) is undoubtedly the safest option.
American Express, Thomas Cook and Visa are the most recognized,
and usually offer instant replacement in the case of loss or theft.
(Remember to make a record of the serial numbers of your TCs.)
However, in remote areas, border crossings and in places where there
is a dual economy or strong black market, bringing a certain amount
of hard currency can be essential.
Changing TCs into cash may be very expensive or impossible in
such areas. Watch carefully and always talk to other travellers first
to check rates, scams, etc. If you get stuck with no local currency,
and the banks decide to shut for a five-day festival, you can always
find an entrepreneur who will exchange your dollars.
For Europe, Thailand, Korea, and Australia/New Zealand, you
might as well get your TCs in Yen, rather than US$, thus saving extra
conversion charges. However, in North America, and particularly in
Micronesia, there is an expectation that you will bring dollars. Trying
to change any other currency can be expensive, if not impossible.
Credit cards are a very useful backup, though the extent of their
acceptance varies considerably. Be aware of hefty surcharges and
changes in exchange rates. Eventual costs could be greater than
anticipated.
Insurance
CLAIR has provided us with accident insurance that covers our
JET vacations (except for periods of more than 30 days spent in our
own home country). For non-renewers, coverage includes 30 days
after leaving the program. Claim through Yasuda Fire and Marine
Insurance Co., English hotline Tel: (0120) 08-1572 (toll free) in Japan,
or if you are abroad, call collect (reverse charge): +81 (3) 3593-1572.
The Yasuda policy deals only with health matters, so for current and
non-renewing JETs alike, an additional travel insurance policy
covering theft and loss is a sensible move.
Travel agents issue all-encompassing insurance, but as a rule,
insurance bought in Japan is not applicable unless you are returning
to the country. So, if you are not returning and want travel
insurance, you will either need to 1) get it through your home country,
or 2) have a Japanese friend apply on your behalf as your “contractor.”
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The added disadvantage with the latter is that any “fly-me-home”
clause would of course bring you to Japan. The International
Student Travel Association (STA) is good value, covers most
eventualities and student status is not a requirement. The American
Automobile Association also provides insurance for American
travellers.
In Asia and Africa, health insurance is worth only peace of mind,
but it is a good idea for Europe and North America, where there is a
higher statistical chance of injury, better medical facilities and more
expensive hospital costs. As with any type of insurance, you file in
the country where the insurance was purchased. Before they will
accept a claim, insurance companies require evidence that you have
paid medical expenses, or in the case of theft, a copy of a police report.
The police report usually must be filed within 48 hours of the incident.
Travel insurance often EXCLUDES skiing, scuba diving,
motoring accidents in rented cars and trip cancellation or interruption
when your airline or tour company suddenly leaves you stranded. Be
sure to read the fine print to see that you have adequate coverage.
Credit card insurance protects your credit cards against
fraudulent use and can save you a considerable amount of money.
This is especially important in Thailand, where some 90% of the
developing world’s credit card fraud occurs. Many people wrongly
assume that their cards are protected. So that you are prepared for
all eventualities, always carry your policy numbers and proof of
insurance with you when travelling.
Scuba insurance
For scuba divers, accidents are not usually covered by normal
insurance policies. Consider a supplemental policy from Diver’s
Alert Network (DAN). These policies are not expensive, but provide
essential care in the event of a diving accident. Peace of mind is
probably worth 5,500 a year.
DAN (JAPAN) Japan Marine Recreation Assoc.
3-8 Mejiro, 1-Chome Toshima-ku, Tokyo 171
Tel: (03) 3590-6501 Fax: (03) 3590-8325
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Safety
For up-to-date information on politically unstable regions and
destinations to avoid, see the homepage of your own country's foreign
affairs department.
Australia: http;//at.gov.au/travel/index.html
Canada: http://voyage.dfait~maeci.gc.ca/destinations/menu.e.html
Ireland: http://gov.ie/iveagh/
New Zealand: http://www.mfat.govt.nz/travel/
United Kingdom: http://www.fco.gov.uk/travel
United States: http://travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html
Packing tips
A sturdy backpack with a small daypack is undoubtedly the best
combination. You might want to buy a backpack cover too. These
are cheap and fit easily over the bulk of the rucksack, making any
tempting looking zips or clasps less accessible to the would-be-thief.
Put name/ address labels both outside and INSIDE your pack.
Travel as lightly as possible and choose clothes that are versatile.
Bring extra passport photos for unexpected visas, permits, etc. Carry
a small flashlight, a padlock for hostel doors (cheap places often use
the padlock system, but their locks are insecure), a penknife, and a
lockable chain to fasten your bag to the tops of buses and train
luggage racks. Bring some laundry soap, as laundrette’s may be
non-existent.
Health News
Please note that the information below constitutes a personal,
practical view compiled by recreational travellers, rather than
professional advice. Before departing, check with the relevant
embassies or consulates about necessary inoculations and specific
health precautions.
While health deserves serious consideration, there is no need to
become paranoid when travelling. Before rushing out and getting
prophylactic inoculations, malaria pills, and water purifiers, check
that you really need them for where you are going and what you are
doing. The number one piece of advice is to carry a small,
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straightforward medical kit, even during short day trips. In
developing countries, be sure to check the expiry date on medicines.
Vaccinations
Before travelling, make sure you have the necessary vaccinations.
Most large hospitals in Japan administer standard Hepatitis A and B,
Cholera and Tetanus shots. However for Polio, Yellow Fever,
Typhoid and Diphtheria, you may have to travel to one of the two
clinics listed below (Table 5.1). Check with your local doctor first.
Yellow fever inoculation certificates (valid 10 years) are required
by certain African and South American countries and are checked at
the airport on arrival. Vaccinations for Hepatitis A, a
liver-debilitating disease commonly contracted by travellers in
developing countries, are recommended for many areas of the world.
It is not life threatening, but recovery will take months of rest and
alcoholic abstinence. Hepatitis A can be warded off with gamma
globulin/immune globulin shots.
These are recommended, but are only effective for relatively short
time periods. If planning to be away for three months or more, there
is a ten-year vaccine available. This has to be given in a series of
injections over a six-month period, so plan in advance. Polio and
typhoid inoculations are also sensible precautions. The cholera
vaccination is largely ineffective and is only recommended if you are
visiting a country at the time of an epidemic. Also, check that your
tetanus inoculation is up to date, as you need boosters every ten
years.
It is a good idea to include a disposable syringe in your medical
kit in case you are faced with the need to get a gamma globulin
booster or hospital treatment. One JET recounts in horror travelling
to Singapore and being given an inoculation by an attendant without
gloves using an unclean needle.
Lastly, remember to plan ahead! Some immunizations cannot be
given at the same time (e.g. Hepatitis A inoculations cannot be
received within six weeks of any Polio or Yellow Fever vaccination).
Others take time to become effective.
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Delhi belly, Montezuma’s revenge
Whatever it is called, it is bound to happen at some time or
another! There is no need to rush to the pharmacy and take
antibiotics. Instead, avoid eating until it completely passes through
your system (usually around 36 hours), drink lots of liquids to prevent
dehydration and get plenty of rest. Make sure you have some
anti-diarrhoea tablets as these normally relieve symptoms quickly
and effectively.
If the problem persists or gets bloody, then seek medical advice,
quickly. The best way to avoid problems is to take care with food and
water. Peel fruit, beware of salads, ice and ice cream and ensure
that meat is thoroughly cooked. If you buy mineral water, check that
bottles are sealed; you may be buying tap water. Also remember to
check food packages for best by dates. Food more than one year old
has been found on some South East Asian supermarket shelves! You
have been warned!
Do not drink tap water unless you know it is safe. Boil or filter
water as necessary. Carry a container that will hold boiling water.
If you want to purify, a recommended method is one or two drops of
water-based iodine solution (not medical tincture) per litre.
Remember, though, that it is unhealthy to drink iodised water
continuously for two or three months. One of the problems with
purifying water is that your stomach does not get used to the bugs.
Worse still, many water-purifying agents actually kill “good bugs” in
your stomach, making you more vulnerable to getting sick. So if you
purify once, you must continue to do so.
Perhaps if you are going to be in a rural area for an extended
amount of time, it may be better to suffer a bit until your body gets
used to the conditions. Also note that in many parts of Asia, like
China and Vietnam, boiled or boiling water/tea is provided by even
the cheapest of guesthouses, so there is little reason to worry.
Problems arise more when trekking, especially in India, Bangladesh,
and Pakistan. A classic technique is to carry gifts of lemon grass,
cinnamon sticks, and herb teas. Instruct your host that the tea
needs to be boiled for five to ten minutes, and most nasty parasites
will die.
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Malaria
Malaria is a problem throughout the tropics. The most effective
prevention is to take good precautions against insect bites. Use
repellent that contains DEET (diethyltoluamide) with a concentration
of 32-35% (higher might irritate your skin, lower is not effective).
Malaria is somewhat seasonal and worse at the end of wet
seasons. The mosquitoes that transmit the disease do not survive
well at high altitudes and do not like bursts of low temperature. Also,
they only bite between dusk and dawn, which is why using mosquito
coils at night and a net wherever possible, is so important. So
remember to maintain a good supply of effective repellent, dress in
bright colours (honest), keep your arms and legs covered after sunset
and sleep in properly screened rooms.
Anti-malarial drugs do not prevent the disease, but they do
suppress its symptoms. Consider taking the pills if going for a short
trip to a high-risk area. There are two main malarial prophylactics
on the market: mefloquin and chloroquine. Southeast Asia malarial
strains are resistant to chloroquine, so mefloquin is the only
alternative. This drug is only available at one pharmacy in Tokyo,
(Akadama Yakkyyoku, Tel: (03) 3492-5706). They will mail medicine
to your home. Alternatively, your local doctor can order it in a week
or so. The pills cost 1200 Yen each, which is actually a competitive
price. Insurance will not cover the cost. If you decide to take
malaria pills, do not forget that you must start taking them a week
before entering the malarial area, and continue for four weeks
afterwards. Mefloquin is also readily available in Singapore, Hong
Kong, Bangkok, and Kuala Lumpur.
Remember that malaria is a very serious and potentially fatal
disease. Symptoms of malaria include headaches, fever, chills and
sweating. Embassies and consulates can usually recommend
English-speaking doctors.
Also, five star hotels can recommend someone, though, as the
Lonely Planet notes, they will probably recommend doctors with five
star prices. For more information call the CDC Malaria Hotline.
Tel: (404) 332-4555 (USA), or the International Clinic in Tokyo at: (03)
3582-2646.
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Other precautions
Something as simple as sunburn can ruin a vacation. Make sure
to bring sunscreen (UV) lotion when travelling in hot regions such as
the tropics of Southeast Asia. Sunglasses and a hat are also a must.
Due to the extreme heat, you are a target for heat exhaustion. When
sweating profusely, you lose a lot of salt that can cause fatigue and
muscle cramps. An easy measure is to increase your salt intake and
drink as much water as possible.
Humidity and heat can also cause skin problems such as jock itch,
athlete’s foot, dermatitis (caused by jewellery and watches rubbing
your skin), and prickly heat (caused by excessive sweating). Make
sure to bathe often and thoroughly dry yourself before dressing. Bring
anti-fungal ointments and powder such as Desenex, Tinactin and
Mycota. Wear light cotton clothing and underwear and opt for open
sandals.
Further information
For a more comprehensive and medically cautious view, the following
information resources are recommended:
The US Centre for Disease Control and Prevention
http://www.cdc.gov carries general travel health information and news
about specific disease outbreaks. They also publish Health
Information for Travellers. To purchase, call (202) 512-1800, US$20.
1600 Clifton Rd. NE, Atlanta GA 30333, USA, Fax: (888) 232-3299.
The International Association for Medical Assistance to Travellers,
417 Centre St., Lewiston, New York, NY 14092, USA. Tel: (716)
754-4883. http://www.sentex.net/~iamat or e-mail at iamat@sentex.net
Membership includes a directory of English speaking doctors in
developing countries, brochures on immunization requirements,
tropical diseases, climate and sanitation. Membership is free, but
donations are appreciated.
The Travellers’ Medical Service of Washington,
Handles health matters for the Peace Corps and issues a ten-page
handout that is used by US university student travel advisors. Write
to 2141 K Street NW, Suite 408, Washington, DC 20037, USA.
MASTA
Has a free excellent advisory service including latest information on
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vaccinations, safety and political stability of all countries.
http://www.masta.org Tel: (0891) 224 100.
Tips for Women Travellers
Solo—a woman travelling alone
Johanna Raines was an ALT in Yamaguchi ken.
I was sitting in a small café, sharing coffee and conversation with
a dear friend, who was ardently talking about her upcoming journey.
It would be her first time to travel alone, and she wanted to know if
there was anything in particular she should be aware of. My first
impulse was to say that basic common sense should do the trick. And
then, my head began to spin with various shady situations that could
very well have been avoided had I chatted with other women who had
experienced travelling solo prior to my first solo exodus.
For starters, I might not have left that cantina in Southern
Mexico at the midnight hour, without an escort, for my simple
ten-minute walk home. Packs of angry young men (common
knowledge amongst the locals) spend their time skulking safe looking
streets during those moon lit hours, look for people to plunder. Had I
known that lone women were prime targets for such bandits, I might
have found an escort or taken a taxi. I would have avoided the terror
of being chased for some five blocks down the deserted streets and
getting lost in the creepy process. The gods must have been on my
side that night, for a car finally did make an appearance, and I was
able to hail the driver by standing in the middle of the road. I climbed
inside, and told him, in my broken Spanish, to drive on (while
clutching onto the handle of the door, in case I needed a quick escape).
Meanwhile, my assailant just stood there on the curb with his arms
crossed, looking furious, and watched us drive away. My luck
continued, in that the stranger in the car did not attack me. I vowed
to myself that I would never again scoff at the prospect of taking a
five- minute taxi ride.
If you are a goddess with a touch of wanderlust, I urge you to go
forth. The experience of travelling solo is simply one that cannot be
surpassed. However, before you venture, do give some consideration
as to how you will be perceived by others on the path. Basically, this
starts in owning to the fact (as silly as it may be) that the majority of
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people in foreign lands are quick to react to us as just that: a foreign
woman alone, in a foreign land. This oftentimes is tantamount to
being a sparkly, shiny, object spotted by a crow in flight. With an
insatiable interest in all things shiny, crows are highly disposed to
going in for a swoop.
Basically, as long as you are actively aware of some of the
responsible etiquette that goes along with being such a sparkly entity,
you will not only avoid the clutches of the crow, but will also acquire
many more reasons to shine. And so, with that said, I offer the
following suggestions that I hope will help secure a ‘mangle-free’
journey. Try to arrive at new destinations during daylight hours and
with a clear head, because already, you will be vulnerable from being
disorientated, carrying a heavy bag and not being able to speak the
language. If you must arrive at night, make a reservation at a hotel or
hostel and splurge on a taxi to get you there. You can always find a
cheaper place in the morning when you learn the layout of the area.
To start, avoid venturing out alone in the evening hours! No
matter how peaceful or pretty a place seems to be, never assume
safety. The world is littered with idyllic towns run by people who go to
great lengths at keeping crime reports out of the media, especially
when foreigners are involved. If you do have an overwhelming desire
to wander, walk like you know your way around.
As soon as possible, learn how to say things like: “go away”, “help
me”, and “no thanks.” Do not be shy about appealing to strangers for
assistance if you are feeling uncomfortable. Some of my best friends
are couples I met after asking if I could join them to avoid the clutches
of some potential maniac who was lingering a little too long.
Make an effort to learn as much about the societies you plan to
visit beforehand! I cannot stress the importance of this, for this is how
you will develop ideas on how the women of whatever country you will
be visiting are treated by their kin. Without question, the natives will
invariably have differing reactions and expectations to the travelling
foreigner, but alas, certain fixed attitudes will prevail, and it helps to
know what types of mentalities you will be confronting.
Anthropologists have been quite prolific in their vivid accounts of
societies, including the manners in which women are esteemed and
treated. There is a wealth of literature accessible on every single
culture of the world. Take advantage of it! A few hours spent in the
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library prior to your journey will engender you a powerful sense of
what types of behaviour might be expected of you.
The issue of apparel is of supreme importance. Something as
trivial as wearing a pair of shorts in certain communities could result
in you being ostracized by women who might otherwise have made an
effort to be your friend. You could also be the recipient of an entourage
of “cat calls” and other annoying (some downright frightening)
unwanted attention, all from showing a little skin. Viewpoints and
attitudes of disparate societies on issues such as dress, gender, and
the body, are governed by such a myriad of influences, from religion to
the media.
Oftentimes, we might not be quick to understand or agree with
some of these beliefs or opinions, but I suppose the honour lies in our
attempt to do our best at respecting them as differences. If you want
to fight archaic, misogynist attitudes, laws and beliefs, do it from your
home country with the power of an organisation behind you.
Do not endanger yourself abroad just because you, as a Westerner,
have the right to dress as you please. Watch the women. Pay attention
to how they dress, and do your best to emulate them. I recommend
that you pack a few “conservative” items of clothing. Remember, many
places such as churches, temples and museums, require women to
cover their shoulders and/or legs before entering. Keep a low profile!
Be careful to not advertise your alone status. If you happen to be on a
date, or even just chatting with someone, it is always a good idea to
casually make it known that you are “with other people” and are
“expected back.” Exercise caution when giving out information such as
where you are staying, or where you are going. The adage holds, “we
are better safe than sorry.”
Some handy items your bag of tricks might include: a whistle (in
case you need to call for help), a vial of mace or chilli spray, condoms
(in case), a wedding ring (real or fake), photos of your “husband” and
“children”, literature (even if you do not feel like reading. This is a
great “I’m busy” signal at a coffee shop), lastly, (but far from being the
least): an alias. It is always a good idea to have several different
names and origins for your self at easy recall. You never know when
you might not want to be known!
A woman travelling solo will also be the recipient of a plethora of
wonderful things such as countless acts of generosity from strangers
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who assume that she is lonely. Enjoy these when they come, and be
careful to not indulge feelings of ‘obligation’ to anyone. Appreciation is
always sufficient reciprocation! And remember, your travels are your
very own magical story in the making, and may pave, or close the road
for other adventurous vixens. Choose your words and chapters
carefully. Now get busy! The world is waiting.
Further information
http://www.journeywoman.com
http://www.lonelyplanet.com (Look under Thorntree)
http://www.backpackeurope.com/womentravelers.html
http://www.tips4trips.com
A Journey of One’s Own: Uncommon Advice for the Independent
Woman Traveller. Thalia Zepatos.
The Bad Girl’s Guide to the Open Road. Cameron Tuttle. It is funny
and even has a basic car repair guide.
Traveller’s Tales: A Woman’s World. Mary-beth Bond & Larry
Habegger.
Volunteer Programs
Mongolia: land of the blue sky
Lisa Poston, a third year ALT in Saitama-ken, is treasurer for the Habitat for
Humanity SIG. Since coming to Japan she has worked on Habitat projects in
a number of countries, the most recent of which was in Ulaanbaatar,
Mongolia. Here she discusses the work of Habitat and talks about her time in
Mongolia.
What is Habitat for Humanity?
Habitat for Humanity International (HFHI) is a non-profit,
Christian housing ministry, which seeks to eliminate poverty housing
and homelessness and to make decent shelter a matter of conscience
and action. Habitat has built more than 100,000 houses around the
world, providing more than 500,000 people in 79 countries with safe,
decent, affordable shelter.
Through volunteer labour and donations of money and materials,
Habitat builds and rehabilitates simple, decent houses with the help
of the homeowner (partner) families. Habitat houses are sold to
partner families at no profit, financed with affordable, no-interest
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loans. The homeowners' monthly mortgage payments are used to
build still more Habitat houses. Habitat invites people of all
backgrounds, races and religions to build houses together in
partnership with families in need.
In recent years JETs have become involved in Global Village
projects, travelling to countries in Asia and the Pacific as volunteers.
During 2000 and 2001, 30 JET teams travelled to the Philippines, Fiji,
Papua New Guinea, and Nepal, among other countries. The teams
fundraised money, collected school and clothing supplies, and taught
their Japanese students about Habitat work on return to Japan. If
you would to learn more about the Habitat SIG, please contact the
National Coordinator at habitatsig@hotmail.com. For general
information about Habitat for Humanity International, visit
http://www.habitat.org
What attracted you to being a HFHI Global Village team member in
Mongolia?
As soon as I learned that a team was scheduled for a project in
Mongolia, I knew I had to be a part of it. Having lived in Japan for
more than two years and been immersed in Asian culture, Mongolia
seemed like it would be a fascinating travel destination. Having no
summer plans, I thought a trip to Mongolia would not only be another
opportunity for me to participate in a HFHI GV project, but also a
great chance to experience life in a country that is virtually unknown
to the western world.
What did you gain during your experience?
In addition to sharing new experiences with the Habitat team, I
also gained a great deal of knowledge about Mongolian life from
communicating with the affiliate staff members, homeowners, and
on-site workers themselves. They shared stories about their lives
and told us of the daily struggles they have to endure. Although it is
never easy to share the stories of one's hardships, I truly felt these
people appreciated my attention and interest in their lives.
How does Global Village allow volunteers to contribute?
The difference between participating in a Habitat project and a
GV (short-term mission) project is that, with the latter, volunteers
have the opportunity to contribute the funds they have raised for a
particular affiliate and then, travel to that affiliate in another country
and experience a way of life that is different from their own. At the
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end of these short-term missions volunteers usually have the chance
to spend a few extra days of rest & relaxation in the country before
returning home.
Can you explain a typical day on the work site?
A typical day went something like this: team members woke up at
around 7am and then made their way to the common kitchen area in
the adjoining hotel room for a light breakfast consisting of cereal,
toast, muffins, fruit, juice, coffee and tea. After filling our water
bottles from the purified water tank, we made our way to the work
site at around 8:30am. We had a snack break at 11, lunch at 1, and
another snack at 3. Several ladies with homes already in the Habitat
community prepared our daily snacks and lunches on the site.
We normally worked until 5pm. The on-site Mongolian workers
were used to a working day that started at around 10.30am and
finished between 9 and 10pm. For our project, they adjusted their
schedule to coincide with ours. On the land designated for the Habitat
community, there were already five houses built from the previous
year. The team worked on four houses during this project. The
foundations for two of the houses were already completed when we
arrived. The houses were built with wood and concrete. To make the
concrete, we retrieved buckets of water from a nearby river. The other
materials were purchased from hardware and lumber stores around
the city.
The Host Coordinator would announce job duties. Either the team
members themselves would volunteer or our Team Leader would
delegate job duties for the day. There were plenty of duties for
everyone including, but not limited to: sawing wood, hammering nails
into boards, cutting and laying strips of insulation, mixing cement,
fetching water from the river, picking and shovelling dirt, moving
debris from the site, or just being another worker's helper by passing
around tools and other items when needed. When team members were
tired of their particular job task, they were free to switch with other
members throughout the day.
After returning to our old Russian apartment complex made into
a hotel, the team members got showered and changed for dinner.
Basically, the time after the workday was our own. The Team Leader
would give us taxi and dinner money and then we were able to go
anywhere in the city on our own. Usually, the team would break up
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into smaller groups. On occasion, though, we would get together for
dinner at a nice restaurant.
Did you learn about the need for decent housing in Mongolia? How?
While in Mongolia, I had many opportunities to witness the
despair of Mongolians living in Ulaanbaatar, Erdenet, and in the
countryside of northern Mongolia.
At the beginning of my trip, another team member gave me an
article to read about Mongolians who had to live in manholes under
the city streets. I found this hard to imagine until one day when I
saw some children coming and going out of a manhole with food for
their families. Throughout my trip, I would stumble upon many
uncovered manholes with traces of people living within them. That
site always brought tears to my eyes.
Mongolia was controlled by the Russians for many years but was
abandoned only a decade ago. Its economy was left in ruins. With no
financial infrastructure, Mongolian banks are not set up to offer loans
to prospective homeowners.
Thus, Mongols (even the middle class) are left either having to
pay for a home in full, rent from the numerous old and run down
Russian apartment buildings, or be forced to live in any number of ger
(traditional felt tent) districts. Whether they are living in a home,
apartment, or ger, most Mongols live with their families comprising
up to ten members or more. During the cold winter months, the
temperature will easily drop to -40 degrees F. This makes living
conditions unbearable for those without heating, with children and
the elderly population particularly at risk.
In addition to walking through several ger districts, I also had the
opportunity to visit an orphanage located in Ulaanbaatar. Most of the
children there were from the streets or had parents who were in
prison. Others were left at the orphanage because their families
were unable to feed another child. Although most of the children
were half their normal body size due to malnutrition and other
medical problems, the facility itself did look surprisingly clean and
appeared well organized.
What was the best part of the project for you?
All aspects of the project were rewarding for me, whether I was
interacting with the team members, affiliate staff members,
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homeowners, on-site workers, children at the orphanage or people in
the community. I also enjoyed getting the chance to travel in Mongolia
and to witness a part of the Mongolian lifestyle that has remained the
same for hundreds, if not thousands of years. Having the opportunity
to stay in a ger camp for several days and experience a part of
nomadic life was incredible. Waking up to the sight of wild horses
galloping through the steppes, watching the herds of yaks, sheep,
goats and cows grazing on the mountainsides, seeing nomadic women
milking cows, hand washing their laundry, and making traditional
steam buns in their large cooking pots was a very enriching
experience.
Any other thoughts or suggestions
First of all, if you are transiting through Beijing, China on the
way to/from Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia by plane, you will still need to
obtain a Chinese transit visa. If not, you can be detained by the
immigration officials and be issued a fine. This happened to three of
our team members. A fourth member was able to purchase a transit
visa at the airport in Beijing.
My suggestion to everyone is to transit on the way to/from Seoul,
Korea. Remember that there are only two flights a week from Seoul
to Ulaanbaatar, so you may have to stay one night in Seoul for an
early departure the following morning.
Second, effective from July 18, 2001, American citizens do not
need a visa to enter Mongolia. Please contact the Mongolian Embassy
for details on extensions and requirements for other citizens.
Finally, if you have any questions regarding my HFHI GV project
to Mongolia, please contact me at madenjpn66@hotmail.com.
Travel with a purpose
Angie Peltzer is an ALT in Nagano-ken. She set up a new volunteer
organization, Go Make a Difference, in May 2000.
During your time on the JET Programme you have probably had
plenty of time to travel around Asia, relax on beautiful beaches,
explore ancient ruins, and eat local delicacies. But how well did you
get to know the local people and experience the real culture of the
region? Did you feel like you were just an observer and never had
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the opportunity to give something back to the countries in which you
ventured?
When I came to Japan as a participant in the JET Programme, I
knew that teaching was not going to be a life-long career for me. I
came to Japan to not only experience the culture of this beautiful
country, but to explore the surrounding region. As someone who was
interested in a future career in International Development, I knew
that my future travels would give me a better glimpse into life in the
developing world.
I eagerly anticipated and planned my first trip to Thailand where
I had successfully found two children's homes that were in need of
help. I was to spend a week at each home providing whatever
services I could. Five visits and a year and a half later I could never
have predicted the impact these children would have on my life. It
is because of these children that I started a web-based international
volunteer organization called Go M.A.D. (Go Make A Difference)
http://www.go-mad.org.
I started Go M.A.D. with the hope of aiding small social service
projects (especially the children's homes I had just visited) that are in
need of volunteers and funding, but are unable to communicate their
needs. At the same time, I wanted to work with people who would like
to volunteer abroad, especially in South East Asia, but was unsure of
where they could go and how they could help. I was aware that
many volunteer organizations required large fees from participants.
But what percentage of such fees went towards administration costs
and what went to the actual projects was unknown to me. I
designed Go M.A.D. so that projects receive all of the donations, and
none is lost to administration; Go M.A.D. donates its time for this
purpose.
In a year and half, Go M.A.D. has grown considerably and is now
proud to work with over 25 projects in: Thailand, Gambia, Cambodia,
Democratic Republic of Congo, Philippines, Indonesia, Laos, China,
Nepal, India, Venezuela, Ecuador, Ghana, Kenya, Kyrgystan, and
South Africa. Volunteer stays can range from 3 days to one year,
depending on the project. Some projects require a donation to the
project that is essential for their survival, while others do not.
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Volunteer duties range from teaching English, to medical services, to
carpentry, to farming.
If you are interested in learning more about Go M.A.D., please
visit our website http://www.go-mad.org. If you are interested in
volunteering, you can apply to any of our networked projects via the
website and begin your adventure. Please keep in mind that while
Go M.A.D. continues to expand, it is me that primarily runs it, and in
my spare time. Please be patient with our services, as we try to do
our best! While our address will change once I leave Japan, we will
do our best not to only maintain Go M.A.D., but also to turn it into
something better so that it can help even more people.
A Christmas in Vietnam
Keri Damen, Nagasaki-ken
Last Christmas, instead of the usual time spent with my family
drinking eggnog and stuffing myself with food, Christmas morning I
found myself under a scorching sun in Vietnam playing with 60
orphans in a Catholic-nun run orphanage. 35 JETs from Japan who
participated in the 8th Annual Children’s Education Project were
there to hand out donations of used clothing and toys, school supplies,
candy, and Christmas Cards from Japanese students. Many JETs on
the project had worked to raise funds for the donations they took over.
Many had also worked to raise awareness of the problems in
Vietnam’s schools, but in truth, after playing games with the children,
and holding so many lovely babies in our arms, it was us who received
the true gifts in Vietnam that Christmas. The formal project runs
tentatively from December 20th to January 1 st every year, (there is a
$750 U.S. fee to cover meals accommodation and in-country
transportation.). Starting in 2002, there is also a Charity and
Education Project scheduled for Vietnam and Cambodia from August
12th to August-25th.
When people say that one person cannot change the world, they
have not met Gia Hoa Ryan yet. A Vietnamese-American who lived
through the terrors of the American war in Vietnam and had her own
brother sent to a re-education camp for fighting on the ‘wrong’ side of
the war, Gia Hoa moved to the U.S. but never forgot Vietnam. Years
later she created and became the Executive Director of the Friendship
Foundation of American-Vietnamese whose goal is “to build bridges of
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friendship” between other countries and Vietnam. Along with the
Vice-Director Joseph Meissner, a Harvard-educated lawyer who is a
veteran of the war, Gia Hoa makes a difference in the lives of many
Vietnamese through many projects in both the US and Vietnam. In
fact, in 2001, their 8 th Annual Children’s and Education Project alone
touched an estimated 6000 lives.
With diverse goals aimed at helping the many groups of people
who need it, the Project participants and organisers visit many places:
orphanages, hospitals, rural villages (where they host health fairs
with volunteer Vietnamese doctors), a school to distribute
scholarships, and homes and hospitals for the elderly, war-wounded
and disabled. The Project also visits a Leprosy village and the
Montagnard Hill Tribe people. School supplies, food, medicine,
clothes and toys from both Japan and America are distributed
throughout the project.
The Project gives participants a firsthand experience with the
realities of life in Vietnam and a chance to meet many Vietnamese
people through volunteer work. However, the Project also allots time
to visit cultural and historical sites in southern Vietnam including the
Presidential Palace in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), the Saigon
Water Puppet Theatre, the Military Museum, and a visit to the
fascinating Cu Chi Tunnels and War Memorial.
After the Project, many participants opt to continue travelling in
Vietnam or nearby Cambodia and in the past the organisers have
helped participants with advice or with making arrangements for
further travel.
Friendship Foundation of American-Vietnamese
Hoi Ban Huu Hoa Ky –Viet Nam
2206 West 85th Street, Cleveland, Ohio, USA 44102
Tel: (216) 651-6748 E-mail: friendshipfounda@msn.com
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Abbreviations
Volunteer organisations
Time of Contract (TC): Short (S) Mid (M) Long (L)
Religion (R)
Protestant (P)
Jewish (J)
Catholic (CA)
Location (L0)
Worldwide (W)
Lat. America (LA)
Lutheran (Lu)
Baptist (B)
Christian(C)
249
Mennonite (M)
Quaker (Q)
S. America (SA) N. America (NA)
Europe (E)
Africa (AF)
Asia (A)
Nature of Service (NS)
Australia (AU) Oceania (O)
Agriculture (Ag) Cultural (Cul) Restoration (Res)
Archaeology (Ar) Disabled (Dis) Sanitation (San)
Business (Bu) Education Ed) Social (Soc)
Children (Ch) Elderly (Eld) Technical (Tec)
Construction (Con) Environment (En) Women (Wn)
Conservation (Csv) Health Care (H)
Association of Episcopal Colleges
815 Second Avenue, NY, NY 10017-4594 USA Tel: (212) 986-0989
Fax: (212) 986-5039 Web Site: http://www.cuac.org
TC: S-M-L; LO: NA, LA, E, A; R: C; NS: Ch, Ed, Dis, H
Australian Trust for Conservation Volunteers
PO Box 423, Ballarat Victoria 3353 Australia Tel: (3) 5333-1483,
Fax: (3) 5333-2290 E-mail: info@atcv.com.au Web Site:
www.atcv.com.au
TC: S; LO: AU; NS: En
Bharat Sevak Samaj-Nehru Seva Kendra
Gugoan Bye Pass Rd, Mehrauli, New Delhi 30, India,
Tel: (91) 11-485-2215.
TC: S; LO: A (India); NS: Con, San, Res

British Executive Service Overseas (BESO)
164 Vauxhall Bridge Rd., London, SWIV 2RB UK. Tel: (0207)
630-0644.
TC: M-L; LO: W; NS: Bu
Canadian Federation of Student Volunteer Abroad Programs
5F 243 College St, Toronto, ON M5T 2YI, Tel: (416) 977-3703
Fax: (416) 977-4796.
TC: S; LO: NA (Canada)
Catholic Network of Volunteer Service
4121 Harewood Rd. NE, Washington, DC 20017, USA Tel: (202)
529-1100 Fax: (202) 526-1094 E-mail: volunteer@cnvs.org Web:
http://www.cnvs.org
TC: M-L; LO: W; R: CA. Accepts members of different faiths.
Christian Foundation for Children and Aging
One Elmwood Ave. Kansas City, MS 66103-3798 Tel: (913) 384-6500.
TC: M-L; LO: W (Philippines/India); R: C; NS: Ch, Con, Ed, H
Concern America
PO Box 1790, Santa Ana, CA 92702,USA Tel: (714) 953-8575.
E-mail:concamerica@earthlink.net Web:
http://www.concernamerica.org
TC: M-L; LO: W; NS: Ag, Ed, H, San
Council on International Educational Exchange
International Voluntary Service Dept, 205 East 42nd St.,
New York, NY 10017-5706, USA
Tel: (212) 822-2695 Fax: (212) 822-2689 Web Site: http://www.ciee.org
TC: S; LO: W; NS: Ch, Con, Cul, Eld, En, Res, Soc
Global Mission Volunteers of ELCA
8765 West Higgins Rd. Chicago, IL 60631-4192, USA
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Tel: (773) 380-2414 Fax: (773) 380-2410
E-mail:(Deb Myers):dmyers@elca.org
Web: http://www.elca.org/dgm/mispos.html
TC: S-M-L; R: Lu, P; LO: W; NS: Ed, H
EIL Cultural and Educational Travel
287 Worcester Road, Malvern, Worcs.WR14 1AB, UK
Tel: (1684) 56-2577 Fax: (1684) 56-2212
E-mail: info@eiluk.org Web: http://www.eiluk.org
LO: W; NS; Cul
EARTHWATCH Headquarters
3 Clock Tower Place, Suite 100 Box 75, Maynard, MA 301754, USA.
Tel: (978) 461-8182 Fax: (978) 461-2332
E-mail: info@earthwatch.org Web Site: http://www.earthwatch.org
Food for the Hungry
7729 East Greenway Rd. Scottsdale, AZ 85260 USA
Tel: (602) 998-3100 Fax: (602) 998 9448 E-mail: teresac@fh.org
Web Site: http://www.fh.org
TC: M-L; LO: W; NS: Con, Ed, En, H
Gender Tourism and Travel - Yerebatan Caddesi
1513, 34410 Sultanahment, Istanbul, Turkey
Tel: (212) 520-52-74 Fax: (212) 519-08-64
E-mail: headoffice@genctur.com.tr
TC: S; LO: A (Turkey); NS: Con
Never Ending International Work Camps Exchange (NICE)
2-4-2-701 Shinjuku Shinkjuku - ku, Tokyo, 160-0022
Tel: (03) 3358-7140 Fax: (03) 3358-7149
E-mail: nice-do@cosmo.jah.ne.jp
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Web Site: http://www.jah.ne.jp/^nice-do
TC: S; LO: A (Turkey); NS: Ag, Con, Csv, Cul, En, Res
Global Volunteers
375 East Little Canada Rd.Saint Paul, MN 55117 USA
Tel: (651) 482-0295 Fax: (651) 482 0915
E-mail: email@globalvolunteers.org
Web Site: http://www.globalvolunteers.org
TC: S; LO: W (Indonesia, Vietnam, China) NS: Bu, Con, Ed, H
Insight Nepal
PO Box 489, Zero K.M., Pokhara, Kaski, Nepal
Tel: (977 61) 30266 Email: insight@clcexp.mos.com.np
TC: M-L; LO: A (Nepal); NS: Ed
International Study and Service Exchange
Vakil House, 11 Floor, Sprott Rd. Ballard Pier, Bombay 400 038, India
Tel: (91-22) 2614359.
TC: S (Workcamp) ML; LO: A (India); NS: Csv, En, H
International Voluntary Service
122 Great Victoria St., Belfast, BT2 7BG Northern Ireland, UK
Tel: (01232) 238147 Fax: (01232) 244356
E-mail: ivsni@ivsni.dnet.co.uk
TC: S; LO: W; NS: Soc, Con, Csv, En
Interns for Peace
Rehove Geula 35, Tel Aviv, 63304 Israel
Tel: (972-3) 517-6525 Fax: (972-3)517-7995.
TC: L; LO: A (Israel); NS: Bu, Ch, Ed, H, Soc
Interserve
325 Kenningtion Rd., London, SE11 4QH, UK
Tel: (0207) 735-8227 Fax: (0207) 587-5362.
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TC: M-L; LO: A (Pakistan, India, Nepal); R: C; NS: Bu, Ed, H
International Partnership for Service Learning
815 Second Ave., Suite 315 NY, NY 10017 USA Tel: (212) 986-0989
Fax: (212) 986-5039 E-mail: pslny@aol.com
Web: http:// www.studyabroad.com
TC: M-L; LO: W (12 including; India, Israel, Philippines); NS: Cul, Sol
Involvement Volunteers Association Inc.
PO Box 218 Port Melbourne, VIC 3207, Australia
Tel: (61-3) 9646-9392 Fax: (61-3) 9646-5504
E-mail: ivworldwide@volunteering.org.au
Web Site: http://www.volunteering.org.au
TC: S-M-L; LO: W; NS: Ch, Con, Dis, Ed, Eld, En, Soc
Israel Antiques Authority
c/o Israel Foreign Ministry
Website: www.Israel-mfa.gov.il/archdigs.html
Japan Overseas Cooperation Volunteers (JOVC)
Hiroo 4-2-24, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150 Tel: (03) 3400-7261
TC: S-M; LO: W
Joint Assistance Centre, Inc.
PO Box 6082, San Pablo, CA 94806-0082 USA, (501) 464-1100,
Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/jacusa/index.htm
TC: M-L; LO: A (India & Nepal); NS: Ag, Ed, En, Wn, H
Kibbutz Aliya Desk
4F 110 East 59th St., NY, NY 10022 USA Tel: (212) 318-6130 Fax:
(212) 318-6134.
TC: M-L; LO: A (Israel); R: J; NS: Ar, Ag, Soc
Kibbutz Program Centre
Volunteer Department Takam, Artzi 18 Frishman St./cr. Ben Yehuda
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Tel-Aviv, 61030 Israel Tel: (972) 3-527-8874 Fax: (972) 3-523-9966
E-mail: kpcvol@inter.net.il Web Site: http://www.kibbutz.org.il
TC: S-M; LO: A (Israel); R: J; NS: Ar, Ag, Soc
The Lisle Fellowship
433 West Sterns Rd. Temperance, MI 48182-9568, USA
Tel: (313) 847-7126 Fax: (419) 530-7719
E-mail: mkinney@utnet.utoledo.edu
Web Site: http://www.lisle.utoledo.edu
TC: S; LO: A, Af, NA; NS: Cul
Little Children of the World
361 County Rd. 475, Etowah, TN 37331, USA Tel/Fax: (423) 263-2303
E-mail: lcotw@conc.tds.net Web Site: http://lcw.ourfamily.com
TC: S-M-L; LO: A (Philippines); R: C; NS: Ed, Ag, H
Mahobohdi International Meditation Centre
P.O. Box 22, Devachan Leh-Ladakh, 194101, India
Tel: (91-80) 225-0684 Fax: (91-80) 226-4438. NS: Ed
Mennonite Central Committee
21 S. 12th St., PO Box 500 Akron, PA 17501-0500, USA
Tel: (717) 859-1151 Fax: (717) 859-2171
E-mail: mailbox@mcc.org Web Site: http://www.mennonitecc.ca/mcc
TC: L; LO: W; R: C; NS: Ag, Ed, H, Soc
Moshav Volunteers Centre
28 Bailik St., PO Box 4938 Tel Aviv, 61048, Israel Tel: (972)
03-650-919.
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LO: A (Israel); NS: Cul, Soc
Mother Teresa’s Missionaries of Charity
54a Acharya, Jagadish, Chandra Bose Road Calcutta 700-016, India
Tel: (091) 033-245-2277
Service Civil International
International Voluntary Service, 814 NE 40th St., Seattle, WA, 98105,
Tel/Fax: (206) 54-56-585 E-mail: sciinfo@sci.ivs.org
TC: S-M; LO: E, A, AF, NA; NS: Ch, Con, San, En
View Foundation
13 Hazelton Ave., Toronto, ON, M5R 2E1, Canada Tel: (800)
387-1387
TC: S; LO: W (Nepal); NS: Bu, En, Ed, Soc
Volunteers for Israel
330 W. 42nd St., NY, NY 10036 USA Tel: (212) 643-4848 Fax: (212)
643-4855.
TC: S; LO: A (Israel) R: J (but all faiths welcome); NS: Ag, Ar, En, H
Volunteers for Peace
1043 Tiffany Rd., Belmont, VT 05730, USA Tel: (802) 259-2759,
Fax: (802) 259-2922 E-mail: vfp@vfp.org Web Site: http://www.vfp.org
TC: S; LO: W; NS: Ag, Ar, Csv, En, Soc, Res
Wildlands Studies
3 Mosswood Circle, Cazadero, CA 95421, USA Tel/Fax: (707) 632-5665
E-mail:wildlnds@sonic.net
Web Site: http://www.wildlandsstudies.com/ws
TC: S; LO: NA, A (Thailand, Nepal), O (New Zealand), E; NS: En
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Youth Charitable Organization
20-14 Urban Bank St. Yellamanchili - 531 055, Visakhapatnam
District Andhra Pradesh, India Tel: (0091) 8931-31122 Fax: (0091)
8931-31231
E-mail: bureau@md2.vsnl.net.in
TC: S-M-L: LO: A (India); NS: Ag, Ch, Con, Csv, En
Publications
Adventure Vacations
Stephanie Ocko, 1995. Citadel Press, Carol Publishing Group, 600
Madison Av, NY, NY 10022, USA, Tel: (800) 866 1966.
Web Site: http://www.citadelpublishing.com US$14.95 + postage.
Environmental Vacations: Volunteer Projects to Save the Planet
Stephanie Ocko, 1992. John Muir Publications, PO Box 613, Santa Fe,
NM 87504, USA, Tel: (800) 888-7504 US$16.96.
Alternatives to the Peace Corps: A Directory of Third World and U.S.
Volunteer Opportunities, 8th ed., 1998, Food First Books, 398 60th St.,
Oakland, CA 94618, USA, Tel: (510) 654- 4400. US$9.95 + postage.
The Center for International Educational Exchange & International
Work Camp Directory
Updated annually. CIEE’s work camp placements. US$12.00 +
postage.
Directory of Volunteer Opportunities
Kerry L. Mahoney, 1992. Volunteer Directory, Career Resource Center,
University of Waterloo, Waterloo, ON, CN N2L 3G1. CN $10.70.
Fax: (519) 746-1309. E-mail: annm@nh1adm.uwaterloo.ca
Going Places: A Catalog of Domestic and International Internship,
Volunteer, Travel and Career Opportunities in the Fields of Hunger,
Housing, Homelessness, and Grassroots Development
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Joanne Woods, 1991. National Student Campaign Against Hunger
and Homelessness, 29 Temple Place, Boston MA 02111-9907, USA,
Tel: (617) 292-4823. US$6.25 + postage.
The International Directory of Voluntary Work
David Woodworth, 1993. Petersons Guides, Inc., 202 Carnegie Center,
Princeton, NJ 08543-2123 USA, Tel: (609) 243-9150,
International Volunteer Program Guide, Service Civil International
Updated annually. Route 2, Box 506, Crozet, VA 22932 USA, Tel: (804)
823-1826 Fax: (804) 823-5027, E-mail: sciivsusa@igc.apc.org
Web Site: http://wworks.com/sciivs. US$5.00 + postage.
International Workcamp Directory, (VFP)
Updated annually. International Workcamps, 1034 Tiffany Rd.,
Belmont, VT 05730, USA, Tel: (802) 259-2759 Fax: (802) 259 2922.
E-mail: vfp@vfp.org Web Site: www.vfp.org Describes 1500 placements
available through VFP. US$15.00 + postage.
Invest Yourself: The Catalogue of Volunteer Opportunities
Susan Angus, 1996. Available from the Commission on Voluntary
Service in Action (CVSA), PO Box 117, NY, NY 10009 USA,
1-800-356-9315 or direct: (718) 638-8487. Lists 200 non-government
volunteer opportunities overseas and in the US. US$8 + postage ($5
overseas).
Transitions Abroad Fact Sheet No. 36 - “Are you Ready to Volunteer?”
Four pages of advice followed by details, dates, contact addresses, etc.
of over 100 programs that you might consider. At the U.S. Consulate.
Volunteer! The Comprehensive Guide to Voluntary Service in the U.S.
and Abroad
Richard Christiano, ed. 1995. Available from CIEE. Describes over 200
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volunteer opportunities. US$8.95 + postage
International Exchange Programs
Friendship clubs
Besides organizations such as Lions and Rotary, which are
community-based organizations with vast international networks,
there are others that act like an international “Tatami Timeshare”.
SERVAS
Perhaps the foremost is SERVAS; meaning, “to serve” in that
non-language, Esperanto. SERVAS is a “family of peace builders” run
by volunteers to foster international understanding. There are over
nine thousand host addresses in about a hundred countries. Open
door hosts accept SERVAS travellers for two days/nights. Day hosts,
while not offering accommodation, help with local information. You
can join SERVAS whether or not you wish to host others. The
application process takes some time, and generally involves an
interview some three months after you apply. However, requests for
speedy approval will be considered. No one can be approved as a
traveller in SERVAS without an interview. The purpose of SERVAS is
furthering international understanding, not getting free
accommodation! Apparently a few JETs have applied in past years
without appreciating this and have caused some bad feelings.
To join in Japan, contact your regional coordinator with an 80-yen
stamp. If you are going to leave Japan soon, you may be better off to
join in your home country (although Japanese membership can be
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transferred). To find your home country branch, contact the general
secretary, or one of the following addresses:
SERVAS Japan National Secretary
Kouzo Ikeyama、1-4-10 Hiyoshi-dai Otsu-shi, Shiga-ken 520-0112
Tel/Fax: (077) 579-2253 Website: http://www/o.big.or.jp/servas
SERVAS International
Sec.General Mr Kevin Newham
P.O. Box 1086, Airlie Beach, QSL 4802 Australia Tel: (61) 79-465605
Fax: (61) 79-465688 E-mail: sailz@whitsunday.net.au
SERVAS Europe
Coordinator: Margaret Klaser Kirchstrasse 11 D-55124 Mainz,
Germany Tel/Fax: (49) 6131-466683 E-mail: schaefer@t-online.de
US SERVAS Inc
11 John St., Suite 407, New York, NY 10038-4009, USA
Tel: (212) 267-0252 Fax: (212) 267-0292
E-mail: usservas@servas.org Web Site: http://www.servas.org
Other friendship and travel clubs
Ligue d’Amitie Internationale (French section of the International Friendship
League - IFL),
c/o Madame Charnier, Les Champs Fleuris, 14 Rue Maurice, Boyau, F.
91220 Bretigny-sur-orge, France ( 01-60-85-34-07) Pen-friend service,
assistance to visitors to France, newsletter three times a year,
International Congress held every year in Europe. Annual
membership is 90FF, 160FF for couples, 40FF for under 16s.
Globetrotters Club BCM/Roving,
London, WCIN 3XX, UK members contact each other for information
and hosting. Fee for a listing of members is £2 per continent.
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Universal Esperanto-Asocio
Has worldwide member home-stays for Esperanto speakers
777 U.N. Plaza, Suite #1, NY NY 10017, USA (212-687-7041)
Japan Esperanto Instituto,
Waseda-machi, Shinjuku-ku 162 Tokyo Tel: (03) 3203-4581 Fax: (03)
3203-4582 E-mail: chb71944@pcvan.or.jp.
The World for Free c/o Seidboard World Enterprises,
PO Box 137, Prince St. Station, NY, NY 10012, USA, Tel: (212) 674
7018, E-mail: info@worldforfree.com
www.freeyellow.com/members2/seidboard/twfhome.html.
40 countries: $25. It’s an informal system. You get a members listing
and can accept or reject people who come looking for hospitality.
Advanced notification of hosts is required. Please write for an
application before sending any money.
Home and hospitality exchanges
There are a great number of other programmes which arrange
house/apartment holiday swaps, and allow for paid or reciprocal
hosting, such as:
Worldwide Home Exchange Club
UK: 18-20 London Rd. Tunbridge Wells, Kent. TN1 1DA, UK
Tel: (01892) 819300 Fax: (01892) 619311
USA: PO Box 21379 Washington, DC 20009-1379, USA
Tel: (202) 588-5057. E-mail: david.gurdon@btinternet.com
Web Site: http://www.wwhec.com
Approx. 500 listings in 32 countries (1998). You pay £50 with a
photograph. You receive a directory of registered homes that may be
for rent, exchange, or hospitality exchange (home stays).
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Teacher Swap
PO Box 454, Oakdale, NY 11769, USA Tel/Fax: (516) 244-2845,
E-mail: Tswap@aol.com. A holiday home-swap idea specifically for
active or retired teachers. You pay US$50 to be listed and receive
three home catalogues from which to find a suitable swap. The
Invented City, The International Home Exchange Association
41 Sutter St., Suite 1090 San Francisco, CA 94104, USA
Tel: (415) 252-1141 Fax: (415) 252-1171.
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Paid home-stays
If you do not want to join one of the above clubs, or simply do not
want to plan things, you can do a paid home stay. This is particularly
useful in countries like Russia, where pre-arranged home stays
facilitate the offering of visas.
Many developed countries operate home-stay and/or “meet the
people” (short home visit) programs. You can find details through
national tourist offices, in the Alternative Travel Directory, or you can
check addresses in the very useful listings book, Directory of Low
Cost Vacations. J. Crawford. Pilot Books, US$5.95
• Home and Host International have home stay opportunities in
many countries. The Citizen Exchange Council, (12 W 31st St.,
NY, NY 1000, USA) arranges exchange visits with Eastern
Europe and Russia, but only for US citizens.
• The EIL has home stays in various countries. Remember to leave
plenty of time to get the arrangements made.
287 Worcester Rd, Malvern, Worcs, WR14 1AB, UK.
Tel: 01684 562577 Fax: 01684 562212 E-mail: info@eiluk.org
• American Host
PO Box 803 Garden Grove, CA 92842, USA
Tel: (800) 525-9866 Fax: (714) 537-5798
E-mail: amhstfdn@aol.com.
US home stays for Europeans, New Zealanders, and Australians.
• Meet the Aussies
PO Box 442 Woolahara, Sydney NSW 2025, Australia.
Three night home stays
• Meet the Canadians at Home (via provincial tourist offices)
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• NSTS Student and Youth Travel
220 St. Paul St.,Valetta, Malta
Tel: (356) 244983 Fax: (356) 230330 E-mail: salesinb@nsts.org
Home-stays in Malta
Travel Information by Region
This section covers travel in more than sixty countries. The travelogues, all of
which were written by JETs, are intended to provide snapshots of great
locations. Although the travelogues are subjective, I hope they are also
interesting and informative. A big thank you goes out to all past and present
JETs who have contributed to this section.
By Damian Hayes
The Trans-Siberian Railway
If your sense of the epic is to go overland on one of the longest
routes there is, then this is for you. Doing the Trans-Siberian, “The
Big Red Train Ride,” “Riding the Iron Rooster,” whatever you want
to call it, is a fantastic, albeit at times, tortuous trial. It is a journey in
itself to work out the best way of getting on the thing, and then it
takes another mile or two to get through the convoluted literature.
Here is how I spent about US$ 2000 over a two-month period,
travelling from Nagano – Osaka – Shanghai – Guilin – Yangshou –
Kunming - Dali- Lijiang – Leshan – Xian – Beijing – Irkutsk –
Moscow - St.Petersburg – Warsaw – Krakow - Prague and London.
The travel costs are about the same as your flight home, plus
accommodation. It will take at least six weeks to make it worth your
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while. There are a great variety of possible routes. The best travel
information is naturally gleaned from a number of books and the
Internet. But, your first stop might be the Monkey Business website
http//www.monkeyshrine.com
I hate to dive right in to a travel agent, but their information
really is the most comprehensive and accurate of those that I have
seen. They are better for JETs because they operate our way round,
from China to Europe only. It is possible to book with them through
STA Japan, but it costs more.
Monkey Business / Moonsky Star Ltd
Chung King Mansion E-block, 4th floor, Flat 6, Nathan Road 36-44
Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2723-1376 Fax: (852) 2723-6653
E-mail: MonkeyHK@compuserve.com
Monkey Business Info-centre
Capital Forbidden City Hotel, 48 Guang An Men South Street South
Building, 3/Xuan Wu District, 100054 Beijing, China.
Tel: (+8610) 6356-2126 Fax: (+8610) 6356-2127
By boat from Japan, there are three main ways of hooking up
with the end of the train line. You can take a boat from Niigata to
Vladivostok, from Osaka or Kobe to China, or from Kyushu to Korea.
The Niigata boat is very expensive and at Vladivostok you will have to
get straight on the train. It is also much more expensive to buy a train
ticket in Russia or for the Russian end of the train. Korea does have
boats that link with China, but you cannot go through North Korea so
it is not really a direct route.
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All this means that the boat to China from Osaka or Kobe is the
easiest route to take. This arrives in Shanghai and is fantastic. You
will leave Japan from a large spectacular port with a band playing (a
recorded one) and sobbing Chinese waving you off. The ‘Suzhou’ takes
about 500 people once a week from either Kobe or Osaka.
It costs around ¥20,000 for a tatami space in a large room of
people. The food is cheap and not too bad, but you could take all your
own and have great picnics. You will arrive two mornings later in the
very centre of Shanghai, less than five minutes walk from the major
backpackers’ hotel. The visa for China is perhaps more complicated
than getting there. Monkey Business can arrange your Chinese visa
for you, but I would recommend getting STA to do it for you by post.
Shanghai really is the perfect gateway to China because it has the
best English language rail ticket centre, located in the posh hotel to
the left of the main railway station. Do not miss the city’s markets
and one of the best cultural museums in China.
Just to soften myself up for the train, I did a big loop of the
principal sights of China. The closer to Beijing, the better the trains
get. There are several rather descriptive classes: hard seat, soft seat,
hard sleeper and soft sleeper. Hard sleeper is the budget traveller’s
way to go, cheap and comfortable. Hard seat is not the way to go. All
trains have a samovar, a supply of boiling water. You must have a
good big metal cup, a spoon and a supply of things like pot ramen,
porridge, dried milk, tea, coffee, and so on. All these are available in
China, none of them in Russia.
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From Beijing you can go to Moscow through China or Mongolia,
or wiggle your way along the Silk Route. The Monkey Business site
suggests the ins and outs of it all. Basically, the cheapest way is to go
straight though China to Russia. As soon as you get off the train the
prices rocket—Russia can be very expensive indeed. Moreover,
Russian visas are not easy to get in Japan and very tough in China.
You will want to get off at some point as the ride is six days long
and you really do not see that much from the train. However, getting
off is not easy at all. If you want to get off, my serious budget advice is
to go with a package, preferably through Monkey Business. They do
everything for you: book by e-mail or fax from Japan, turn up in
Beijing to get your ticket, and they will look after you.
The main options are Irkutsk and Mongolia or both. Both are
good, but not quite as good as you might imagine. From Irkutsk, we
spent a few days at Lake Baikal, which was really
refreshing—fantastic food and a really good home-stay with very rural
Russian families. The same goes for the Irkutsk home-stay: you get
an excellent flavour of a different kind of Russian life.
Seeing how Russian cities are for Russians is not that pleasant.
In a family, away from a cocooned hotel, the food is not as good and
there is not much to do. Irkutsk tells a lot about life in Russia. You
are soon glad to be getting back on the train to whiz by the problems.
It is possible to book a direct ticket relatively easily from Beijing
to Moscow through China Travel Service in Shanghai or in Beijing. It
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is a third or so cheaper than through the travel agents. However, you
cannot leave the train. Most people who did this saved about $100 but
regretted it. For the train you definitely should have: cup or bowl,
spoon, knife, spare cup, lots of vodka, mixers, tea, coffee, hot chocolate,
porridge, biscuits, sugar, pot ramen (lots and lots), bread, jam, NASA
food, hell, just about anything that expands into something edible
when you add boiling water from the samovar. Essentials like bread,
water and fruit can be bought on platforms during stops. Whole baked
chicken and baked potatoes are available too, but make sure the
chicken is scalding and steaming hot when it comes out of the pot.
Into Eastern Europe
Moscow is fantastic. You must allow a couple of days there, and
then take the night train to St Petersburg. Again, visa
arrangements need to be made in advance, because you cannot change
them once you are there. Be very careful. An International Student
Identification Card is useful because both cities are expensive.
St. Petersburg though, has good, cheap places to eat; you can
locate these in the English language newspaper available in the
Youth Hostel. Going to St Petersburg however, limits your way out of
Russia because of the nasty visa regimes of Belarussia and Ukraine.
You must go straight to Warsaw with a compartment full of motherly
vodka-filled Russian businesswomen.
From Poland, you are free to go where you want. The cheapest
way to London is by coach. You can get one from Warsaw, but that is
a bit far. Prague is an easy overnight train and the coach from there is
easy to get, regular, cheap and takes 18 hours. You might also
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consider Euro rail passes, which you can buy from STA in Japan. I
strongly recommend Euro bus if you have more time to get to London.
It is still very cheap (about $200 for a month) and you can buy it from
STA in Japan. It is a kind of fixed-route; unlimited-time Euro rail
for buses and it will get you from Poland to London via everywhere
else.
Advice for Trans-Siberian rail users
• The best time to make the journey is between May and
September when Siberia enjoys fine weather.
• Luggage space is very limited so pack lightly.
• If you are travelling alone use a four-berth, rather than a
two-berth compartment, to reduce the risk of being robbed.
• People wanting to deposit their luggage in your compartment may
be trying to smuggle.
• It is not unknown for Russian customs officials to board the train
and check compartments.
• At stations and stops, close and lock your windows.
• Not all carriages have shower facilities, and the only hot water
available is the scalding water for tea.
• Do not change too much money in Mongolia, as there is not much
to buy.
• A deck of cards and a chess set are good ways of meeting the
locals.
Further information
Trans-Siberian timetable information:
http://www.inyos.its.rmit.edu.au/~tbmlc/travel/places/siberia
http://www.tiglion.com Tiglion Travel in Hong Kong for info on China
john.pannell@trans-siberia.com Photos and firsthand info
The Trans-Siberian Rail Guide, Robert Strauss. Covers the history of
the Tranzip. Is available from Moonsky Star Ltd.
The Big Red Train Ride, Eric Newby
The Longest Mile, Harold Elvin
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The Great Railway Bazaar, Paul Theroux. Includes a section on the
Trans-Siberian railway.
Eastern Europe
Prague, The Czech Republic
By Andy Thomas and Henrietta Preiss
Like Venice or Florence, Prague is in many ways a victim of its
own success and is fast losing its charm to mass tourism. Still, there
is a lot to see and do, and the highlight for us was the castle in
Hradcany, which crowns the city. The architecture is a fascinating
mix of styles, with the medieval castle walls housing narrow streets
and an imposing, rather forbidding cathedral. A popular attraction
in the castle district is the house where Franz Kafka once lived. This
is in a little street behind the castle known as the Golden Lane, which
has multicoloured miniature houses.
From the castle, we walked down to the River Vltava, crossing
Charles Bridge, into the old city of Staré Mesto and its main square,
Staromestske Namesti. Amidst the many cafés, the famous clock
draws crowds every hour to watch the elaborate clock mechanism
chime. There is a lot of street art and general tourist knick-knackery
in the Staré Mesto and on Charles Bridge, but some traditional
exquisite Czech artefacts can be found cheaply, especially Bohemian
crystal. The old Jewish quarter of town (Josefov) is definitely worth a
visit. There is a moving and inspiring display of children’s art from
Theresienstadt, the concentration camp in the Czech Republic.
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Good, cheap cafés and restaurants abound and in the evening
there is a wide choice of both chic and traditional bars to drink in,
with good Czech beer to be had. Similarly, there are numerous
nightclubs. Cheap opera, concert and theatre tickets are easy to find.
Ask at the tourist information centre just off Wenceslas Square in the
new town (Nové Mesto)
In summer, the hostels and guesthouses fill up quickly and local
schools are turned into makeshift dormitories. For this reason, many
travellers lodge with locals. It is best to arrange this in advance if
possible, but there are lots of people waiting at the station to meet you
and offer you accommodation. It can be a cheap and different way to
see Czech life. Although most of them are legitimate, you should still
exercise caution. Prague is pretty safe, but be sure you know where
you are being taken and if you have any doubts, walk away. Be
careful of pickpockets on the subway.
By Henrietta Preiss
Budapest, Hungary
Romantic, elegant Buda and its soviet-style, commercial partner,
Pest, straddle the Danube fusing to make Budapest. At first glance,
Budapest appears to be a dreadful Soviet hangover. The drab
landscape is littered with grey concrete buildings. However, once
you reach the centre of Pest, the administrative and business heart of
Hungary, you will find a refreshingly chic, modern shopping district
that has many cafes, bars and restaurants.
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The atmosphere is one of relaxed contentment. On the banks of
the Danube is the imposing, gothic parliament building. Across the
river sits hilly Buda, looking down on her partner as if to say, “I’m the
king of the castle,” and indeed, she would be right. For Buda is the old
part of town and is similar to Prague, minus the tourists. Cobbled
streets, fine architecture, museums and fantastic views make for a
very historical feel.
The oriental-looking Fisherman’s Bastion and Matthias Church
perch majestically on top of Castle Hill (Várhegy) and keep watch over
the whole of the city. Immediately south is the Royal Palace and the
National Gallery. Waters from the Buda hills serve Budapest’s many
natural spas. These thermal baths are the best way to relax after a
hard day’s sightseeing. The crème de la crème of these spas is Hotel
Gellert, situated on the Buda banks of the Danube next to the chain
bridge. The mosaic-tiled interior, pillars and archways are all
reminiscent of Roman times, and the experience is quite different to a
Japanese bath.
Budapest is still a bargain travel destination not yet choked by
tourism. There are many hostels near the station, but some are in
disrepair. Food and drink are excellent, and the city has a lively
nightlife. Like Prague, however, keep an eye on your valuables.
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By Henrietta Preiss
Krakow, Poland
This elegant city is surrounded by the picturesque Tatra
Mountains—where you can ski in winter—and just oozes culture.
Small cobbled streets lead you away from the vast central market
square, Rynek Glówny.
The cloth hall Sukiennice, now a lively market, is fringed around
the outside with terrace cafes and enchanting pre-war coffee houses
and restaurants, illuminated only by candles and dimmed wall lights.
The atmosphere is something from another era, and you will almost
expect to see officers in uniform escorting lavishly gowned maidens to
their tables. Kraków’s nightlife is not something to be sniffed at
either. Polish popular culture is well on its way to catching up with its
western counterpart.
Visit the old Jewish quarter, a sobering part of Kraków, where
Schindler’s List was filmed. Auschwitz is also nearby and should not
be missed. Kraków is a refreshing escape from the grey cities of
Eastern Europe and a chance to see real Polish country life up close.
By Ken Januszewski
Moscow and St. Petersburg, Russia
Walk around the Kremlin or near tourist areas and teenage boys
will be around hawking T-shirts, postcards, old Soviet Army hats and
just about anything that is not nailed down. The youngest of the
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salesmen are elementary school age boys and they are relegated to
selling the apparently not very profitable postcards.
Getting to the subway trains themselves reveals a little of Soviet
thinking. The tracks are all really deep below ground. The subways
double as air raid shelters. The older subway stations were crafted
very beautifully. Some have marble pillars, vaulted ceilings and
intricate chandeliers. The newer ones, however, are just poured
concrete. The train lines on the map are uniquely colour-coded. All are
white. The trains are old and thoroughly USSR grade “functional,”
meaning that it is surprising that they function at all!
At the Kremlin, I paid a guide to talk to me about the life, politics
and history of contemporary Russia, which was fascinating. We talked
for hours about our two different cultures. At the youth hostel in
Moscow, I arranged to do a home-stay with a woman in St. Petersburg.
The whole home-stay experience was very pleasant, something I could
not have hoped to duplicate in a hotel. The lady was very friendly
and her humble home was a real insight into Russian life.
I took the overnight train to St. Petersburg, costing about $20.
On my first day in there I went to the Hermitage Museum. It is an
awe-inspiring museum, beautifully constructed and decorated, and
containing art works from across the world. In addition, from almost
every window in the museum there was a wonderful view of some part
of the city.
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When I walked around St. Petersburg, I felt the scale was
impressive. The city was made out of marshes and islands at the
mouth of the Neva River, built to withstand the rigors of time and use,
whilst remaining elegant. Recently the carefully crafted buildings
have by and large been neglected, and up close it shows. But
walking through the streets with canals separating opposing lanes of
traffic, the grandeur is still there.
The main street, Nevsky Prospect (prospect means avenue) is
non-stop bustle. People sell roses, dolls, ice cream, and young men
hold dollar signs, ready to trade roubles to dollars. I found it
important to check the rates before buying, though. The best rate I
got in St. Petersburg was at the foreign currency window of the Astor
Hotel, not on the street, as you would think. Whenever I changed
money in Russia, it had to be a crisp clean bill. Rat-eared,
old-as-the-hills notes are like not carrying dollars at all. No one will
accept them in exchange for roubles or goods.
Further information
Ecology camps in the Urals. Invitations for independent travel in
Russia from £84; home-stay accommodation in Moscow (US$39 per
day) all organised by: Findhorn (Liza Hollinghead) , The Park Forres,
Morayshire, IV36 OTZ, Scotland, UK Tel / Fax: (44) 1309-690-995
Host Families Association (HOFA), St. Petersburg
E-mail:alexei@hofak.hop.stu.neva.ru
Russian Youth Hostels (California based) E-mail: ryh@ryh.ru
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By Gayle Thomson
Western Europe
Innsbruck, Austria
Located in the south Tyrol region of Austria is Innsbruck. A town
surrounded by mountains, Innsbruck is perfect for an outdoor short
break or as a launching pad for Italy, Germany and Switzerland. Visit
in any season for days of fun exercise in gorgeous valleys and nights of
solid beer and inner glow! Not to mention the inexhaustible café
opportunities for you and your favourite books.
Make your first stop the train station to buy an “Innsbruck card.”
This can be valid from 24 hours to a week and it provides access to all
Innsbruck's attractions plus cable car rides. It is a great money saver
and itinerary planner. Separate tram and bus passes are also
available. I found the transport system to be good value and efficient.
Accommodation in Innsbruck is well priced. The Youth Hostel, which
is opposite the train station, is clean and well managed.
Attractions not to miss include the bell museum, which is
surprisingly interesting, and the Alpen zoo (bears, wolves, and all the
other Alpen animals). Innsbruck's main theatre has some excellent
musicals and it also puts on Shakespeare; concerts are held regularly
in local churches and the cathedral; and there is a tiny arts cinema
that shows films in English. A tram ride takes you to the main
entertainment dome for bowling, cinema, pubs and fast food.
Mainstream films are shown in English on Wednesdays.
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Innsbruck's real charm is its natural beauty. A great way to get a
panoramic view of the town is to take a tram or cable car to one of the
many vantage points that the surrounding mountains provide. The
vistas are simply stunning. If you want to ski you can jump on a
complimentary bus that leaves major hotels for a free ride to the slope.
If skiing is not your thing you can still go to the slope and get a hike
pass. You can take full advantage of skiing in season and there are
excellent hiking opportunities in summer. Café culture blooms in the
old town (alt stadt). There are some lovely cafés in the town square
facing the famous golden roof.
Check out the speciality teahouse, Café Suchere, where you are
served as they were in the nineteenth century. Further into the high
street Café Vienna has superb food and pastries plus amazingly
designed toilets!
Austrian food is simple and wholesome. Specialities include cold
sausages, pretzels, a potato ball and of course pickled cabbage. Steaks
are expensive, as is wine, but restaurants are in abundance here. If
you want to take a step back into hunting parties of the past you can
go to a stag restaurant opposite the golden roof. There you can eat
surrounded by animal prizes of the past! The revolving restaurant on
top of the West Mountains serves excellent food and is great for a
romantic evening. In any food outlets you will pay your waiter at the
table. Do tip, as tips of even small amounts will be remembered.
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Pubs are also in plentiful supply. There is an excellent Irish pub
opposite the Innsbruck bank (inside the bank there is free email - just
get a bank member to admit you). A personal favourite was
"Hoftgarden", a club pub in the main park on the south side of the
river. Another must see pub is the "Sky Lounge." Take a lift behind
the Innsbruck Bank and have cocktails on the top floor overlooking
the city.
By Henrietta Preiss
France
L’Hexagone is made up of a variety of different regions and is a
very popular, inexpensive country for travellers. Do not fall into the
trap of visiting only Paris; the country has so much more to offer.
The French Alps are possibly the best winter sports region in
Europe. Haute Savoie plays host to millions of tourists in both
summer and winter. In the summer in Tignes, you can ski on the
glacier in a bikini if you so choose. Unfortunately, many of the tiny
alpine villages have been turned into monstrous resort towns, and
much of their original charm has been lost. Hiking, rafting, climbing,
paragliding and climbing are all offered in this region during the
summer.
On the hedonistic south coast, Cannes and Nice are a stark
contrast with the surrounding Province and Camargue regions. The
south coast is intensely hot and dusty in summer and alive with exotic
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flora and fauna. The Loire valley and the wine producing regions of
the west are great camping and biking areas.
Near Poitiers is Futuroscope, a cinematic theme park with quite
astonishing futuristic architecture and hands-on cinematic attractions.
Northern France is very developed in places but Brittany has many
beautiful little ports and seaside towns, splendid seafood and its own
distinct culture. Breton is still spoken there, and the link with
England is still noticeable. Alsace retains much of its Germanic
flavour due to its periods of occupation in the past.
Paris
You will either love it or hate it, but Paris can be what you make
it. With such a wealth of monuments and famous places, real,
everyday Paris can seem quite impenetrable. The hustle and bustle of
daily life in the narrow, cobbled back streets of Montmartre, where
Parisians sit chatting over a coffee, shows the more human side to
this great city.
Some museums are closed on Mondays or Tuesdays (the Louvre is
not open on Tuesdays). In the summer months the city is really
overrun with tourists. Queuing for hours to get a glimpse of the tiny
Mona Lisa can take all the magic out of the experience. The best way
to enjoy Paris’ glorious, romantic atmosphere is just to stroll around
at your leisure, especially in the evening when the Eiffel Tower, the
Champs Elysées and Notre Dame are all floodlit and the crowds have
dispersed.
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Frankfurt
By Laura Mowbray
Germany
Boring Bankfurt and Mainhattan—lifeless business town. So goes
the reputation. Consequently, most people pass straight through and
miss out on a city with a rich cultural scene, a vibrant nightlife and
excellent restaurants. Admittedly, Frankfurt is not pretty. The town
centre was 90% destroyed in the 1944 air raids, so the key to loving
Frankfurt is by knowing where to look.
Around about the Römer there are remains of the 15th century
town hall, the façade of which miraculously survived the bombing
when all around was reduced to rubble. From the Römer it is
impossible to miss the towering red sandstone steeple of Frankfurt
cathedral, where the Holy Roman Emperors used to be crowned.
Climb the steeple on a clear day for a great view of Frankfurt. Head
south of the Römer and you come to the banks of the Main, where
boats depart regularly during the summer months on trips through
Frankfurt or places further a field, such as Mainz, Koblenz or even
Cologne. Going west of the city centre along the south bank of the
Main, there is the Museum Embankment (Museumsufer), which is
home to many of Germany’s national museums and art galleries
(including the world famous Städel Art Institute).
The municipal theatre, opera and ballet are very reasonably
priced with a 50% discount for holders of a student ID. The old opera
house is worth a visit for its beautiful architecture alone. Left a
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urned-out shell after WWII, it narrowly escaped demolition by the
city council in the 1970s, and is now fronted by a beautiful square
with a fountain and the gardens of the Taunusanlage leading off it.
Frankfurt takes immense pride in its favourite son, Johann Wolfgang
von Goethe and his birthplace has become a museum. The Opernplatz
is packed in the summer with people roller-blading, break-dancing, or
simply relaxing in front of the fountain with an ice cream.
If you ditch culture for something a bit more modern, the Zeil is
Frankfurt’s main shopping street, packed with department stores and
designer boutiques. The main attraction is the Zeil Galerie mall,
which seems to keep going up and up with floor after floor of shops.
There is an outdoor viewing gallery, an indoor IMAX theatre on the
rooftop and restaurants where you can eat overlooking the whole city.
The best cafés are in the student area along Leipziger Strasse in
Bockenheim. For a night out of pubbing and clubbing, try the Berger
Strasse in Bornheim—great for lazy summer evenings spent outside
on the street with a cool beer. Or head south of the river to
Alt-Sachsenhausen with its labyrinth of cobbled lanes laden with pubs
and discos.
Frankfurt is a city of jazz. The Jazzkeller in the Kleine
Bockenheimer Strasse has been attracting famous jazz musicians
from around the globe for more than 30 years. Other well-known
venues include Mampf, Blues & Beyond and the Dreikönigskeller. Try
Frankfurt’s traditional drink, Apfelwein—like flat cider—with
excellent German food in the Sachsenhausen area of town. From May
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to September, various quarters of Frankfurt buzz with street festivals.
Wine, food and beer tents keep the punters happy well in to the night.
Wiesbaden, Mainz, Darmstadt, Hanau and the beautiful
university town of Heidelberg are all less than an hour away from
Frankfurt by rail, so day trips and further exploration of the
surrounding area are very easy to organise. Alternatively, a trip into
the countryside to the Taunus hills north west of the city can be a way
of escaping the smog and getting back to nature. The pretty villages of
Königstein and Kronberg nestle in the hills and are a perfect starting
point for a country walk. They also offer a number of beer gardens as
a tempting finishing point. A little further a field is the spa town of
Bad Homburg. It has a 17th century castle and a large park
containing many natural mineral water sources.
Further information
The main youth hostel in Frankfurt is on the river in Sachsenhausen,
but there is plenty of other cheap accommodation available.
The Frankfurt public transport system is excellent. A day ticket
(Tageskarte) for DM10 covers all train and subway routes, and trams
and buses within the city.
Berlin
By Henrietta Preiss
Once a divided city, vast Berlin is one of Europe’s most vibrant
and modern capitals. Sitting on the River Spree, this city of 3.5
million people is a historian’s dream.
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The central Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtnis Kirche, which was
bombed by the British in 1943, and the adjacent Salt and Pepper pot
churches in Berlin’s main street, the Kurfürstendamm, are testament
to Berlin’s wartime destruction. Similarly, the grim, grey,
Soviet-style Alexanderplatz Platz and its TV Tower are central
reminders of East Berlin’s enforced isolation. However, many of the
finest museums are to be found in former East Berlin in what is
known as the Museumsinsel. The most notable of these is the
enormous Pergamon Museum, which houses the Walls of Babylon and
the Egyptian Museum. In the former East quarter, there is the
Hackschen Höfe, a new venue for the performing arts and exhibitions.
In the centre of the town is the glorious old palace of Charlottenburg,
which survived the bombs.
Despite reunification, the physical differences and social problems
between the former west and east sections remain visible. That said,
with the return of the parliament to its former home in the Reichstag,
the announcement of the so-called Berlin Republic, and Germany’s
role in Europe growing increasingly stronger, Berlin has a lot to offer.
German youth culture rivals that of any Western country.
Wander around the centre of the city during the day or sample it for
yourself during the evening. The Berlin Film Festival is held in
February, and the Love Parade turns the city upside-down in July.
There is plenty of culture—alternative, classical and popular—to be
had. Pick up a copy of the English language Checkpoint magazine for
entertainment listings.
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Kreuzberg is no longer the trendy, alternative favourite it once
was. Since reunification, the underground music and art scene, trendy
cafés and alternative hangouts have relocated to Prenzlauer Berg. For
shop-aholics, do not miss the wonderful KDW department store,
whose food department puts even Harrods to shame.
Around the Brandenburg Gate, hawkers will try to sell you pieces
of the wall (which are usually fake), old East German military
knick-knackery, and lots of tourist rubbish. The real Wall is gone but
reminders of Berlin’s recent past still linger on. To the west of the
Checkpoint Charlie Museum, you can see chunks of the
graffiti-adorned wall and the former No Man’s Land. The museum
pays tribute to those who lost their lives trying to escape East
Germany. The various methods of both escape and its prevention
made for a fascinating display.
By Gayle Thomson
Italy
The contrasting cities of Rome and Florence offer the best views
of Italy. The urban nature of Rome and the rural quality of Florence
combine with beautiful wine for an unforgettable experience.
Rome
Arriving in Rome you will be faced with a bustling, gorgeous city
full of people and fantastic buildings. This is history and shopping
heaven! Finding your way from the train station is easy. Although it
is reputed to be the most dangerous station in Europe it is clearly laid
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out. Taking the main exit north, this leads onto the main road. This is
the location for cheap self-catering apartments and the youth hostel.
The south exit leads onto the bus station and subway entrance. Note
that buses run later and are better value than the subway, which
stops at 11pm.
Rome is packed with must-see attractions. St. Peter's is the
historical centre of Rome and is a great first stop. It is well worth the
money to climb the dome. You can even buy, write, and send a
postcard from the post office at the first level rooftop. From there the
view of the Vatican gardens is superb. The Coliseum is impressive
from the outside, especially with the mock gladiator guards. Behind
the Coliseum is the Forum. Here you will find some of Rome's most
famous ruins. Other relics and ruins can be found throughout the city.
The Spanish Steps area is the shopping centre of Rome. There's a
beautiful fountain at the bottom of the steps. The actual steps are
worth sitting on, if only to watch the street entertainers and the
people going by. At the top of the steps are many artists and
caricaturists. The Trevi Fountain is usually crowded but it is a must.
By tossing in a coin you will be assured to return to Rome. While
there are always more "must-see" sites to visit in Rome (there is an
almost endless number of churches, monuments, statues, ruins and so
on) it is lovely just to meander round the inner-city streets.
There are so many secluded squares with fountains, markets, and
bars to browse wine, though it will be a far cry from the wine you are
probably used to at home. Two Irish and relax in. The water, the air,
the atmosphere of being in Rome should not be missed. The little
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churches and cafés that you stumble across will be a pleasant
surprise.
Food does not have to be expensive here. Look out for deals and
set menus of pasta and ice cream. However the cheap bars are near
Piazza Navona. There is one near the Spanish Steps that has
excellent lunch deals. It is worth carrying water in bottles, as
refreshments are extortionate near the main sites.
Florence
Florence is only two hours by train from Rome. A fabulous way to
start the day in Florence is by ascending the tower of the city's most
famous basilica, the Doumo. Beautiful views of red-tile rooftops, the
river, and gorgeous mountains await you at the top.
The art galleries in Florence (Uffizi, Accademia, etc.) are very
famous and very busy. But you can avoid ticket queues by booking in
advance on the Internet. That great tourist favourite, Michelangelo's
David, can be found at the Accademia.
Again, while there are many tourist attractions to see, Florence is
also about strolling. If you take a bus to the Piazzale Michelangelo,
you will be awarded with a spectacular view of the city. This main
viewpoint is a popular spot for wedding photos. It also has great
outdoor cafés. Near here is the youth hostel, a beautiful Tuscan villa.
Florence's infamous Ponte Veccio Bridge, one of only two in the
world to be covered in shops, is worth a browse. Inevitably, food and
drink is pricier here. Regardless of where you are eating, it is a good
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idea to hit the restaurants at around 8pm. That way you can get
tables that were reserved but have been cancelled. As the sun sets,
feel the heat and passion of Italian music, food, architecture and life.
Spain
Lazy days and nights in Madrid
By Jim Frank
Transport in the capital of Spain is cheap and reliable. I took the
metro (subway) everywhere, because it is easy to use. In the six
months that I rode it, the pickpockets tried to get me only
once—supposedly I was lucky. When spring comes, the Spanish, like
most Mediterranean people, can be found sitting outside in a café, bar
or park talking animatedly to one another.
It took me some time to gain a sense of direction in the
often-winding streets of the city, but my efforts were rewarded by the
discovery of many unique places. One I distinctly remember is near
the Plaza Major, and is reputed to have been a hangout of Ernest
Hemmingway. It has a sign outside that says, “We don’t speak
English, but we won’t laugh at your Spanish.” That bar is in the
neighbourhood of some of the funkiest old taverns Madrid has to offer:
the mesones. They are all located on the outside wall of the Plaza
Major, down the steps. There are all types of mesones: mushroom,
pork, snail, and so on. Each specialises in one entrée served with
sangria. My friends and I liked the champiñones (mushroom) meson
best. The old man at the keyboard played like there was no tomorrow
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and the sangria washed the mushrooms down well. Saturday
afternoons were often spent at the art museums because it is the only
day that there is no entrance fee. The vast collections on display at
the Prado, Reina Sophia and Thyssen museums are all within
walking distance of each other and the metro stop.
There are many day trip possibilities from Madrid as well. Toledo
is the home of Spanish sword makers, and Salamanaca has one of the
oldest universities in the world. Quenca and Avila are also nearby.
The most enjoyable festival in the region was Las Fayas in Valencia.
This is a weeklong celebration at the beginning of April, culminating
in the torching of enormous floats. For months preceding the festival,
various neighbourhoods spend millions of pesetas to build these floats
out of papiér maché, balsa wood and wax, only to have their creations
set aflame. My only caution is that you make your stay in Spain short
enough so that you do not fall in love with the place and never want to
leave.
Granada
By Stacey Kerns
I tricked my friends and dragged them through Spain for this
single city. It is off the beaten path from the highly travelled Madrid
to Barcelona backpacker route. Situated on a main agricultural
plain in the south, it is not anywhere near the ocean. Even so, if I
could live anywhere, I would live here. Granada is a fabulous place to
visit. It is a large city in the provinces, so it feels more Spanish than
Madrid. Though it lacks the nightlife of Barcelona, it is a rest from the
Gaudi inspired architecture of that city.
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The main attraction of Granada is La Alhambra. La Alhambra
is an old fortification and palace that sits on a hill over-looking the
city. Everything was built by the Moors—the palace, the battlements
(La Alcazaba), and the gardens (Generalife). It served as the seat of
Arabian culture throughout the Middle Ages. As a palace, La
Alhambra is an architectural delight that is based upon the elements
of light, space, air and water. Artisans and masters carved marble
and alabaster so that they appear to have no weight at all.
Fountains and reflecting pools are incorporated into the design of
every part of the building.
Specifically, the Court of the Lions is amazing in the symmetry of
its arches and columns, but my personal favourite is the Patio de los
Arrayanes. When I walked into the open courtyard, I felt as if a bat
had hit me. Was it the tapas I had for lunch? Was it perhaps a past
life resurfacing? No. It was simply that beautiful.
Alcazaba is more prosaic, with its practical defences of turrets
and battlements, but the Generalife picks up the theme of space and
water again with reflecting pools nestled in manicured gardens.
Granada isn’t only La Alhambra. It has a beautiful cathedral that is
near La Longa, an ancient open-air market that has traded the fine
silks and exotic Moorish delights for souvenirs, but still a sight to be
seen. Outside of town are the Caves of Sacromonte, where gypsies
used to make their homes. Now the caves have been converted into
stores and club venues, where you can see flamenco performances.
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Granada also has a bull-fighting arena, for the more bloodthirsty
traveller.
Nightlife centres on the tapas bars where you can find great eats
for cheap. There are, of course, plenty of restaurants too, with the
priciest being closest to La Alhambra. There are regular trains to
Granada from Madrid and Barcelona, including a night train from
Madrid. It is a good bet for the traveller who has a Eurail pass, or
for anyone who does not have the time or money to spend on a hotel.
In Granada itself, there is not much in the way of bus
transportation and driving on the narrow streets in inadvisable.
However, the city is small enough to walk, so transport should not be
a major problem. The hapless friends that I dragged along later told
me that Granada was one of the best places they had been. I
recommend Granada for any traveller who wishes to experience a bit
of ‘real’ Spain without leaving behind the comforts and entertainment
of a larger city.
A great English web site for information on La Alhambra is at
http://www.alhambra.org. It explains how to obtain tickets and when
it is open, and also has pictures of the palace. It also has a link to
the Granada city homepage.
Seville
By Ariën Koorn
Once the primary port of embarkation for ships bound for the
New World during Spain’s Golden Age, this city has seen a colourful
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(if blood-stained) array of explorers, conquistadors, and legends set
sail and then return with the plunder of the Americas’ gold. The
lighthouse in the harbour, the Tower of Gold, takes its name from the
fact that it was once completely gilded and shone brighter in the
daylight than at night.
The Giralda, a Moorish bell-tower, still stands above the city,
affording a bird’s-eye view of the Alcazar and its lush gardens, the
sweeping, modern bridges built to commemorate the World Fair in
1992, and the powerful gothic cathedral that dominates the centre of
the town. The Cathedral is the second largest in the world and houses
the elaborate black marble tomb of Christopher Columbus.
I was there during Holy Week, when groups of robed and hooded
penitents walk barefoot through the cobbled streets. They bear figures,
heavy with silver and gold, of the Virgin Mary or the Macarena (the
patron saint of the city, not the dance). For this event, the streets are
lined with hordes of people, although I had the good fortune to be
inside the Cathedral itself to see the beginning of one of the many
processions. The sound of shuffling feet, candles barely piercing the
gloom under the massive arches, smoke from the incense burners
wreathing the spectre-like hoods and robes of the marchers, the
stillness shattered by trumpets heralding the opening of the
doors—some memories defy description.
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By Henrietta Preiss
Switzerland
A healthy, wealthy, and wise country sandwiched in the middle of
Europe’s big boys, little Switzerland has much to offer the
outdoors-enthusiast. It is stunningly beautiful and conveniently
located for exploring the rest of Western Europe.
Hiking, climbing and water sports are the order of the day in
summer, and in winter Switzerland is one of the safest places to learn
to ski or snowboard. Being mostly alpine, the country has many ski
areas to choose from. Klosters and St. Moritz are the most famous.
One of the best things about Switzerland is its blend of cultures
due to its four different languages. Tourism is big business. For this
reason and due to environmental concerns, motorized vehicles are not
allowed in many of the alpine villages. So despite often being
über-kitsch tourist traps, these villages retain some of their simple,
traditional charm.
The Jungfrau, Eiger and Mönch mountain range near Interlaken
in west Switzerland is magnificent in any season. Take a train up
the highest railway in Europe (no cars allowed) to Wengen and
Kleiner Scheidegg for skiing in the winter and hiking in the summer
and then on to the summit at 3454m. The ice sculptures inside the
Jungfrau itself are quite astonishing.
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Bern and Geneva are very exclusive up-market towns, but
Geneva, sitting gently on the shores of Lac Léman, is a very calm and
friendly place. A short walk from the serenity of the lake with its
famous jet d’eau is the UN building, which you can tour. Whilst in
Switzerland, make sure you try the local cuisine. Fondues and raclette.
Both made from Swiss cheeses, they are unique and delicious.
The Americas
The Americas by bike
By Jo Macgregor (Canada and the US - Peru - Chile - Argentina - Brazil -
New Orleans)
Planning
It is important to take into consideration seasonal weather
patterns when planning your route. Sorting out the red tape is also
time consuming. I advise writing to embassies about visa
requirements. This is especially important if you are cycling, as you
often do not meet the "onward or return ticket" requirement. In South
American countries, make sure you get your passport stamped on
entry and exit, or you could face a fine. As far as money is concerned, I
always had an emergency supply of U.S. dollars and traveller’s checks.
Mostly though, I relied on my bankcards (Cirrus, Plus, and Visa). I
found it very useful to have cards covering both networks, as some
countries seemed to have only one or the other. Any large city in
South America will have Tam’s, where you can withdraw US dollars
or local currency. Make sure you get enough out to last you until you
reach the next big city.
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I needed a battery of immunizations before this trip. Make sure
you allow plenty of time, as many need booster shots up to 6 months
later. The World Health Organisation (http://www.who.int) publishes
an up-to-date list of requirements for all countries, or you can check
with your doctor. For South America, and because I was cycling, I got
additional shots of rabies and yellow fever. Bear in mind that yellow
fever shots are usually only available in a few locations in any
country.
In terms of physical preparation, make sure you have a vague
idea of your limitations, and the effect that different terrain and
weather conditions will have on your daily mileage. Then there is the
issue of gear. This is a list of what I had after cycling through North
and South America:
Mountain Bike: I prefer cromoly steel frames, which can be
welded anywhere. These frames usually have a good mix of strength
and lightness and are great for any terrain. Good gears and good
brakes are a must—pay the extra for a decent brand. A really strong
steel rack is essential. I found Nitto to be the best make. Semi-slick
tires are good for the USA and Canada, while knobblies are best for
most of Central and South America.
Baggage: 2 rear panniers (waterproof); handlebar bag; canoeist
waterproof wet bag (bungied on top of rear rack); camelback for water.
Camping Gear: Tent (free standing, two person); sleeping bag (a
warm one!); Thermorest, pot, cutlery, penknife, MSR stove and fuel
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(you can use varied types of fuel with this stove); headlight; food (a
lot!); camp towel.
Clothes: Obviously clothes to cover any possible weather variation.
Raingear (I had a Goretex jacket, pants, socks and gloves), warm hat,
additional socks and gloves, sunglasses and hot weather cycling gloves,
fleece and many layers of thermals. Cycling shorts and tops, spare
civilian clothes, swimsuit, sandals and sneakers.
Bits and Pieces: High-factor sunscreen, maps, guide book,
toiletries, toilet paper, camera, insect repellent, journal, money belt,
first aid kit, bike bag.
Tools and Spares: Pump, lock, spare tire and tubes, puncture
repair kit, spare cables, brake pads, spokes, nuts and bolts, oil, grease,
rags, allen keys, spanners screw drivers, spoke tool, chain breaker,
pliers, multitool.
Maps for developing countries are best bought from a developed
country, and even then should be taken with a pinch of salt!
The Cycle Touring Club, Cotterell House, 69 Meadrow,
Godalming, Surrey, GU7 3HS, UK, has a lot of valuable cycle touring
information from all over the world.
North America
After getting used to American-sized food portions, exploring
Haight-Ashbury and riding the streetcars, I cycled out of San
Francisco over the Golden Gate Bridge. I got completely lost riding up
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and down steep inclines toward what I thought was Golden Gate
Bridge but actually turned out to be the Berkeley Bridge. Realising
my mistake, I turned around and took on San Francisco’s rush hour
traffic towards the Golden Gate Bridge. When I eventually found the
long and winding road up the mountain to the campground it was
already getting dark.
Everything got easier after that inauspicious start. My planned
route was to cycle north to Jasper, Canada and zigzag down through
the Rocky Mountains. Heading north from San Francisco along
State Highway One, I met many cycle tourists going in the opposite
direction, as it is a common cycle thoroughfare along beautiful
coastline.
There is a good discount system in US State Parks, where people
without motorized transport pay only $1-$3 for a "hiker/biker"
camping spot. They are always in wonderful locations and are great
places to meet other travellers. Northern California encompasses a
range of scenery, from the coast to the towering redwood forest.
People everywhere in the western US were easy-going, friendly and
welcoming. Crater Lake National Park in Oregon was breathtaking.
The national parks have entry fees of between $5 and $10. I cycled
through the beautiful scenery of the Cascade Mountains, around Mt.
St. Helens and Mt. Rainier and up to Seattle in an unrelenting heat
wave.
Canada is an outdoor lover’s paradise: there are numerous
national parks for hiking and biking. The West Coast Trail in BC
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and the Chilikoot Trail in the Yukon are two of the most renowned
hikes, both taking five to seven days. The skiing season usually begins
at the end of November and lasts through April. BC’s Whistler,
Blackcomb, Seymour, Grouse and Washington resorts and Alberta’s
Banff, Kananaskis and Jasper are reputedly the best.
There is one main domestic airline, Air Canada. However a
regional airline called WestJet often has better prices. Sometimes Air
Canada has discounts for advance booking and under-25s. Greyhound
buses are a cheaper but limited option. The VIA Rail Canadian
crosses country from Vancouver to the Maritimes. Website:
www.viarail.ca
From Seattle, I took a ferry to Victoria on Vancouver Island and
saw perhaps the most beautiful scenery I would see during my eight
months on the road. There are snow-capped forested peaks wherever
you look on a ride that takes you from seaside to
toy-town-fantasyland-ski-resort. Heading north into the wilderness,
the gradients increased to 15% and bear warnings became prolific.
Needless to say, I bought the standard issue pressurized bear spray in
the next town. This made me feel much better. I never saw a single
bear, but the spray did come in useful for the packs of hungry dogs
that attacked me in Mexico.
The Icefields Parkway between Jasper and Banff is cycle central,
where you get to meet cyclists from all over the world. There are a
couple of passes along the way, as well as glaciers, mountains, lakes
and assorted wildlife. It has to be said that the whole area is
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absolutely stunning. Banff is an outdoors playground where you can
try anything—for a price. There are a few campgrounds on the
peripheries of town with public transport connecting them to the
centre if you cannot be bothered to cycle.
For the next month I zigzagged through the Rocky Mountains,
through the thermal wonderland of Yellowstone, the mountainous
grandeur of Grand Teton National Park, and all of Utah and Colorado.
There are campgrounds, national and state parks, and glorious free
camping spots all along the way. Whenever I went off-road, though, I
ran the risk of trudging through the clay-like mud that clung to our
bikes. Colorado is beautiful. The first stop was Mesa Verde, "Green
Hill," National Park in the southwestern corner of Colorado. It is a
wonderful mix of forest and Native American caves—a special place.
From there, I went through an Indian reservation in northern Arizona.
It felt like a different country.
I headed west to see the Grand Canyon. Dawn and dusk are the
best times to see the canyon. It is very scary when viewed from the
rim, albeit glowing with the most beautiful pastel shades under the
sun. I headed south to the Sonoran Desert that straddles Arizona
and Mexico. It is known as the living desert, possibly because of the
large variety of desert plant life it supports, or possibly because of all
the snakes and tarantulas waiting ominously by the side of the road.
The American Southwest is full of thorns, which cause punctures like
there is no tomorrow. I had six in one day. Luckily the local bike
shops all have "thorn resistant tubes." It is a bit complicated to get
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them fitted and they are heavier than normal tires, but it was the best
investment I made on this trip, as I didn't have another puncture.
After the Sonoran desert, I hit the coast of Mexico and wound my
way down through idyllic seaside villages with gorgeous beaches. The
laid-back attitude to life is infectious. Mexico City is a fun place and
the people are wonderful. On the outskirts are the ancient ruins of
Teotihuacan, including the pyramids of the sun and moon, which are
certainly worth a day trip.
Peru
The Gold Museum in Lima is certainly worth a look, but overall
the city has a desperate, dismal feel to it. I headed straight up into the
Andes. The road goes from sea level to the 4818m Ticlio mountain
pass in about 140km. Although the road was paved, I was trying to
adjust to the increasing altitude so I spent the first night at 2400m in
Matucana. I met another cyclist there and the next day we rode to
the top of the mountain. It was not very far, but the altitude slowed
us down a lot. It took nearly all day to reach the top, feeling every
pedal stroke and gasping at every breath. We zoomed 1500m down the
other side to La Oroya. The landscape at the top was amazing with
lunar-like glaciers and frozen lakes. The next day we followed the
dirty river to Huancayo, which marked the end of the paved roads and
the beginning of a myriad of trails to Ayacucho. We went up and up.
Some of the roads I can only describe as steep, dried up
riverbeds. At many of the villages we were told to take shortcuts,
which invariably resulted in beautiful scenery and tiny indigenous
villages, despite even worse roads! Sometimes kids on claptrap old
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ikes would ride with us for a while. People were always so helpful to
us, pointing us in the right direction and giving us shelter from the
rain that sometimes turned the roads into mudslides. Ayacucho is a
colourful university town with great markets. From there I continued
solo to Cuzco. The road went up and down between 2000m and 4300m
six times on more dubious surfaces. This area of Peru is very poor. It
also has a lot of passport control stops because of the Shining Path
group that originated here.
I got sick once while riding, and found myself sitting in the
middle of a town square, doubled over in pain. Within two seconds,
the whole village was looking after me. They found me a bed, brought
me food and gave me lots of herbal tea. I think I got well just on their
good will. Cuzco is the former seat of the Incan Empire. Set aside two
days for wandering around the old, windy streets. Cuzco is the tourist
town in Peru. It is in close proximity to many famous ruins, beautiful
hiking trails and bustling markets, and you can organise any kind of
adventure tourism you wish. It is an oasis for travellers in Peru.
After saying a sad farewell to Cuzco and climbing one last high
pass, I hit the altiplano, a flat, treeless plain at 3800m. The main
inconvenience of this terrain was the lack of hiding places in which to
relieve one self. It was the first time I had truly appreciated the
wisdom and practicality of the grand voluminous skirts the local
women wear!
Chile
I wandered around Santiago awe-struck for the first few
days—everything seemed so clean and in working order. There were
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things to buy in the shops and hot showers at my disposal. I got my
bike fixed and headed south.
Chile is a delightful place to bike. Everywhere I went, there were
orchards and willow trees and vineyards, an abundance of fresh fruit
by the roadsides, perfectly symmetrical snow-capped volcanoes, lakes,
forests, rivers and cyclists galore. Mostly we free-camped, took some
smaller dirt roads around the lakes district and met still more
generous Chileans who gave us honey, berries and all matter of food
and drink on a daily basis. All of it the best we had ever tasted.
Argentina
Crossing the border into Argentina was spectacular. Argentine
skies are so blue they almost make your eyes water. Up in the Andes,
the wind in Patagonia is ferocious. I was blown off the road more than
a few times as well as, on one occasion, being blown to a standstill
pedalling downhill. Away from the shelter of the Andes, I met some
Argentine cyclists going in the opposite direction. They were heading
south on a mission to plant Argentine flags on parts of Chile they felt
belonged to them.
I kept following a series of rivers and dams northeast through
Patagonia. I came across the odd tiny town, and one place that held
the largest dinosaur bones in the world. I stopped for their
wonderful ice cream shops (heladeria), where I was always taken in,
fed, introduced to their friends, interviewed by the local media, given
e-mail access and made to feel as though I could never leave. I
encountered this kind of hospitality all over Argentina.
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The Pampas was never-ending flatness, insects, sunflower fields
and more skin-sizzling sun. Buenos Aires is a fabulous city. The
atmosphere is a mélange of European, Latin American and New
World influences, where art in all its forms is very much alive and
kicking. Riding north, the wildlife by the side of the road grew more
exotic—anteaters, strange insects, snakes and butterflies of every
conceivable colour and design. Do not miss the mammoth Iguacu
waterfalls. See the Argentine side first, as the Brazilian side defies
description.
Brazil
Rio is another fantastic city. I did not feel unsafe at all, although I
heard lots of bad stories. I stayed at the Copacabana Praia Youth
Hostel, owned by the jovial Carlos. Sugar Loaf and the Cocovado have
amazing views of the city, and there is a plethora of famous beaches,
great nightlife, and the joie de vivre of the people is infectious. I do
not think it is possible to go to Rio and not fall in love with it.
Back to the states: New Orleans
I flew from Rio to New Orleans via New Jersey. I really enjoyed
New Orleans. It is a total party town. Bourbon Street comes alive
every night and the whole city has a wonderful atmosphere. There is
music inside, music outside, music wherever you go. There are loads
of tourist things too: swamp tours, food tours, plantation house tours
and Mississippi River tours - it is endless! My overall impression of
the cycling I did in North and South America is how wonderful the
people were everywhere. The scenery was sublime, and the freedom
you experience on a bicycle is unparalleled.
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Further information
http://www.ibike.org/travel.htm International Bicycle Fund
Journey Latin America: sales@journeylatinamerica.com.uk
http://www.latinworld.com/countries links to the Latin world
By Jeff Carpenter
Bolivia
A possible base for Lake Titicaca is Copacabana in Bolivia. It is a
four-hour bus ride south of Puno, just on the other side of the
Peru/Bolivian border. This might be a wise choice for the budget
traveller as Bolivia is much cheaper than Peru. Half the population
is of indigenous descent and most speak Quechua or Aymara. There is
an interesting mix of Catholicism and traditional religious beliefs,
including devil worship. Clothing is very colourful, but it is a poor
country and many people eke out an existence on the land with their
llamas. La Paz is the highest capital in the world and should not be
missed. http://www.planeta.com
Canada
In the heart of Quebec province
By Katia Theriault
I have spent most of my life in this beautiful Canadian province,
and each time I visit a different region, I find new places to admire
and new people with which to share things. Of all the interesting
places I’ve been to, Montreal remains the jewel of all cities.
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Montreal is an eclectic, cosmopolitan city with a population of
about 3 million people. It is well known as a bilingual city, which
means you can speak either French or English. Within the city there
are many cultural “villages” or areas that are marked with the
essence of different countries and cultures.
You can enjoy a little piece of Greece, Brazil, Portugal, Chile,
Haiti, Morocco, Tunisia, Vietnam or China without having to leave
the city limits. Montreal’s nightlife is amazing. There are many places
to go, and it’s easy to get around, thanks to the close proximity of all
entertainment areas and the excellent all-night subway, bus, and taxi
services. It is possible for anyone to spend the evening at 4 or 5
different places. You should start with areas such as St. Laurent, St.
Denis, Ontario, St. Catherine, and Crescent. Whether kind of music
you like you will find a venue with the company and atmosphere to
suit your taste. However, not all places can be found in these streets
and if you have time you might like to explore the depths of Montreal
with a few friends to find the greatest lounge hidden between two
skyscrapers.
Visitors to Montreal are usually incredibly surprised about how
safe they feel both during the day and at night. It is true that
Montreal doesn’t have a past history of heavy violence and crime, but
neither is it the city of angels. It is very safe for women, but like
anywhere else you do not want to put yourself in a situation of danger.
You can be wise and still party hard until 4 or 5 am.
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If you desire some peace and tranquillity, Montreal can provide
that too. Behind a busy street of shops, cafes and restaurants, you can
always find a quiet park where young people are having a picnic, older
couples are taking a walk, and the laughter of children fills the air.
Parc du Mont-Royal, for example, is only a few minutes walk from the
lively St. Denis Street and is located on a hill overlooking the city.
Here, on Sundays during the summer, you can listen to open-air drum
and tablas performances by professionals and amateurs alike.
Using your own instrument, you can join in if you feel like it. The
atmosphere will remind you of the 60’s and the scents floating in the
air will make you wonder whether you are truly in Montreal or
somewhere in Amsterdam. After a day of intense drumming you can
climb up the hill to get a night view of the beautifully illuminated city.
Low budget travellers will be delighted to know that living and
travelling in Montreal can be quite cheap. It has plenty of budget
hotels, B&Bs, youth hostels, YMCAs, and low-budget restaurants and
cafés.
The best time to visit Montreal is in the summer. The majority of
the city's special events are scheduled between June and July. No
matter how long you visit, there is bound to be at least one festival in
progress. The most popular ones are: the Jazz Festival; Just for
Laughs Festival; The International Beer Festival; Benson and Hedges
Fireworks competition; the African Festival; and Francophiles. The
best thing is that most of these festivals offer free, open-air
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entertainment. If you have some money and time left, do not miss the
Botanical Garden, Bio-dome, Insectariums or La Ronde attraction
park.
Montreal has rhythm and variety. At any time of the day or night
you can find something interesting to do or experience. It is true that
from a distance it looks like any typical North American city, but after
a closer look you will realise that it is tinted with a touch of exoticism
and artistic delirium.
By Jeff Carpenter.
Cartagena de Los Indios
Colombia
Cartagena de los Indios has some of the best colonial Spanish
architecture in South America, surrounded by 15 feet-wide walls that
served as a defence against Caribbean pirates. During the day, the
colonial district bustles with commerce, the people seemingly
energized by the brightly painted, multicoloured buildings. At night, a
new mood takes over as soft lighting illuminates the walls and
buildings. It is quite sublime to walk along the top of the massive
walls, with a warm breeze rolling in off the Caribbean Sea on one side
and the majestically lit buildings on the other. Strains of music from
the salsa clubs, which throw their windows open to the Caribbean and
pump out a mesmerizing mix of Latin American rhythms, are just
perceptible in the distance.
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Southern Colombia
The south of Colombia provides an opportunity to recuperate from
the Cartagena debaucheries, up in the Andes. Lucky people will find
their arrival in Popayan coincides with Holy Week, during which the
nightly processions are highly religious. No one will be drunk or
wearing loincloths and shouting “Washoi!”
Fully uniformed and gun-toting military bands provide all the
music in an interesting combination of South America’s two strongest
institutions, the Catholic Church and the military. Popayan is
interesting by day, with too many art galleries and churches to keep
track of. To the east of Popayan are two impressive archaeological
sites, Tierradentro and San Augustin. Expect a lengthy ten hours for
the 200-km ride from San Augustin to Popayan on the local bus. I got
to stand on the back bumper, holding on to a metal rail.
It might be more feasible, although more expensive, to hire a
jeep with some others. San Augustin overflows with pre-Incan
monolithic stone statues. The well preserved, elaborately arranged
stones make Stonehenge look quite dull. Tierradentro is a series of
underground tombs, featuring elaborately carved pillars and painted
ceilings. From Popayan, luxurious buses will whisk you south to
Impales on the Ecuadorian border.
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By Jeff Carpenter
Ecuador
Ecuador is hard to beat, combining variety and safety at a very
affordable price. Coming from the south of Colombia the first Andean
town of note will be Otavalo. This town’s world-class, hypnotic music
and multi-coloured weaving can be found other places, but nowhere as
reasonably priced as in Otavalo.
An hour south of Otavalo lies another of South America’s gems,
Quito. Surrounded by 19,000 foot-high volcanoes and home to both a
quaint colonial district and energetic new town, Quito has something
for everyone.
A four day tour to Cuyabeno (organised by any travel agent in
Quito for approx. US$300 per person) could include fishing for
piranhas, eating lemon ants, seeing fresh water dolphins, crocodiles,
snakes, a mind-boggling assortment of plant-life, trees sagging under
the weight of hundreds of monkeys…it is a jungle. Do not miss the
hot springs at Papallacta, near the pass over the Andes.
By Jeff Carpenter
The Galapagos
Two kinds of tours go to the Galapagos. The typical, more
luxurious tour booked from outside Ecuador through a travel agency,
is a boat tour. Prices for a five to six day tour begin at about US$1100.
The second option is a land tour. A six or seven day-tour costs starts
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at US$700. Both include Quito/Guayaquil-Galapagos return airfare.
Book in Ecuador. From the Galapagos, take a bus from Guayaquil to
the Peruvian border.
Mexico
The Yucatan peninsula
By Nicola Hopkins
The classic Maya lowlands and neighbouring Chiapas states are
extremely rich in ruins of various periods. It is more rewarding to
select a couple of sites like Chichén Itzá and Palenque, which despite
both being Mayan sites, are quite different. Explore them fully
rather than trying to see each and every pyramid in the area.
Sites on the Yucatan Peninsula range from Tulum, overlooking
the turquoise Caribbean, to the astounding Toltec-influenced Maya
ceremonial site of Chichén Itzá, an easily accessible day trip from
Cancun and Merida. Highlights of Chichén Itzá are the principal ball
court and the main pyramid, known as both El Castillo (The Castle)
and as El Templo de Kukulcán (Temple of Queztalcóatl, the plumed
serpent). There is little shade or wind at Chichén so take a midday
siesta and visit the site early in the morning or in the late afternoon.
The Chichén Itzá Archaeological Zone is open from 8am to 5pm. In
general, it is not well sign-posted. Rumour has it that this is to better
support the guides working inside the zone.
Another principal Mayan site is Palenque in Chiapas state. In
complete contrast to Chichén, Palenque is a physically challenging,
site full of streams, waterfalls and rich tropical forests. Despite its
great importance to the local Mayan tribes, Palenque remained
hidden from European explorers until the latter half of the 18th
century. Due to the huge scale of the site and its jungle setting,
reclaiming the temples and structures has been a tremendous mission.
Many of the less central structures remain partially excavated, some
with ancient trees growing through them.
If ruins of ancient civilisations are where your interests lie, this
region of Mexico is definitely for you.
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By Brett Hetherington
Africa
Morocco
Morocco is a mixture of several cultures. There is a lingering
French influence, the bustle of the Arab world, the historical
remnants of the Moors, a sprinkling of indigenous Berbers, and the
exoticism of Islam.
This country is one of the more broadly progressive, and even
somewhat cosmopolitan, Moslem nations (although free speech
continues to be repressed). Travellers are unlikely to be harassed by
the police, though the attentions of strangers can be a bit much at
times (do not be surprised if someone invites you to stay in their
home). Most travel books tend to recommend that you hire a guide but
in the towns and cities at least, my partner and I did not find it
necessary. The language barrier is only significant if you don't
understand any French at all. Even if that is the case, there are
plenty of English-speaking guides and sometimes they will magically
appear once the locals see that you might be interested in spending
some money.
In small towns the guides might never mention the thorny issue
of cash but instead take you around various shops where you are
expected to purchase a few items (like expensive carpets, they hope).
In return, the guide gets a financial "kickback" from the owner. In
Morocco the "souqs" or "medina" markets are fantastic places to shop
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or simply people watch and they provide a refreshing change from the
sanitized indoor malls we've all become used to. It can often be
difficult to find your way around in them. However, getting lost can be
half the fun. You can always stop someone and ask him or her to take
you to a known landmark (after agreeing a small fee for services
rendered, of course. Ballpoint pens seemed to be a welcome reward for
school children).
The desert
We made our way from Marrakesh to the transport hub of
Ouazazte. It is a wonderful journey. Travelling by bus you gradually
climb, then plunge down the sharp hairpin bends of the spectacular
Atlas Mountains, which are often tipped with snow. Then you
suddenly find that you are travelling across flat, dry plains as you
approach Ouazazate.
To get from Ouazazate to the most stunning deserts it is
necessary to go to the town of Zagora. You can hitch or hire some
wheels; fortunately, there are plenty of places to do just that. The
five-hour drive to Zagora is never dull: the scenery is gorgeously stark
and truly unique. Zagora is the place to hire a guide. When you get to
the desert you will definitely need one, given the extreme
temperatures that can occur and the potential for getting into
difficulties. The local Twareg Berbers—known as the "bluemen"
because of their distinctively coloured jelaba gowns—are often the
best. Many still live a semi-nomadic lifestyle and they have an
excellent understanding of the conditions. As with everything else in
Morocco, it is in your interests to haggle with them over the price for
their services.
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We travelled south from Zagora to the tiny village of M'Hamid,
close to the desert. This stretch is best done during the late afternoon
when the heat is fading and you can take in the amazing
“moonscapes” of rubble stones and monolithic mountains of rock,
which the locals classify as "hammada" desert. The general absence of
people is another startling aspect of this part of the country. You
might pass a camel train making its way across the Sahara, or as we
did, pass the gory sight of an overturned truck that had flung its cargo
of half-dead sheep by the roadside.
The only other reminder of civilisation is the occasional army fort
surveying the valleys below from a rocky hill (Algeria is only a few
kilometres away and the two countries are currently involved in a
border dispute).
From M'Hamid we started with our guides on a three-hour camel
trek towards the bigger, more graceful sand dunes. As we rode into
the desert we noticed the gradual disappearance of even the
scrubbiest bushes. Later, as the evening spread itself against the
widest of pink horizons, our shadows grew longer and longer with the
dying sun. The stillness of the setting was beautiful; the only sound
being that of the camel's hooves shuffling in the sand. Once we
reached the Twareg's camp it was already dark and a feast of mutton
and vegetable "tajine" stew with couscous (rice-sized semolina pasta)
awaited us. Just like any other time of the day or night, mint tea was
served. Our hosts also provided us with some live music around the
fire. We slept in a tent with our guide and one of the pet dogs. In the
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Sahara you feel like you are surrounded by nothing at all. The purest
silence, the barren seas of sand, the stark, clear nights with the stars
seeming to be within physical reach: these and other things create the
allure of a timeless landscape.
Egypt
Egypt is still a budget traveller’s paradise but make sure you
have a good supply of US dollars or Egyptian pounds at border
crossings. You can use traveller’s checks and credit cards at banks
and big hotels. Cairo has an International airport, but it is also
possible to do border crossings by land from Israel, or arrive by ferry
from Jordan or Europe. By far the best way to get around Egypt is by
train, but buy your tickets in advance.
Summer temperatures can be unbearably hot in the south, and it
is very dry. Winters are cooler and provide more favourable conditions
for travel, although it is also high season for tourists. Beware of
travelling during Ramadan (Feb/March) when many shops,
restaurants and government services are closed, or open only in the
early morning, or late evening. There is a wealth of history and
culture in this ancient nation. Here is an overview of the principal
sights:
Cairo
Mosque of Muhammak Ali, City of the Dead, Egyptian Museum
(do not miss the Tutankhamen Collection), the Pyramids at Ginza and
Saqqara. Some old and stepped pyramids outside Saqqara have been
re-opened to the public, including the famous “bent pyramid.”
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Alexandria
Cooler and more relaxed than Cairo, remnants of the colonial past
are still evident. Very little remains of its ancient ruins, though a visit
to the catacombs of Komesh-Shoqafa is recommended. The beaches
are very crowded.
Luxor
The temples here and at Karnak are well worth visiting. Most
people make Luxor their base for visiting the West Bank sites, namely
the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, the Colossi of Memnon,
Temple of Hatsheput and the Ramassuem. You can also rent a
motorbike, donkey or horse.
Aswan
This beautiful, laid-back city, located just in front of the largest
dam in Africa, is a good base from which to visit the Temple of Abu
Simbel (getting a group and hiring a taxi is the cheapest way). It is
also a good starting point for felucca, Egyptian sailing boat trips down
the Nile. Do not try this mode of transport if you are in a hurry. The
feluccas take six to eight people, so first find a group and do the
rounds with the captains to try to get the best deal.
Hurghada
The coral reefs here make it popular with scuba divers. Suspect
diving centres proliferate, so be careful whom you choose to patronise.
Sinai
The Red Sea coast is excellent for snorkelling and scuba diving,
and Sinai is much cheaper than nearby Eilat in Israel. Dive shops and
courses are concentrated in Sharm-esh-Sheikh and Dahab. Dahab has
many camps run by Bedouin villagers catering to tourist’s basic needs.
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It is also a good point from which to climb Mt. Sinai and visit St.
Catherine’s Monastery.
Further information
http://touregypt.net Egyptian State Tourist Authority: 630 5th Ave.
1706, New York, NY 10111. E-mail: egypttourst@aol.com
By Dominic James
Ethiopia
Thinking of its infinite expanses of semi-arid desert, or an
emaciated population living hand to mouth? The needless famine of
1985 and its subsequent negative media coverage have a lot to answer
for, because the Ethiopia I encountered confounded a lot of my
expectations.
Ethiopia has a rich history and a fascinating culture. The
Ethiopian calendar is currently eight years behind the western one,
and daily time begins at 6 in the morning instead of midnight. The
national language, Amharic, is spoken nowhere else. The national
dance involves a bizarre shoulder-jerking movement accompanied by
what can only be described as a sexual gasping. One of the first things
I learned after arriving in Ethiopia was how a war can really
inconvenience your travel plans.
Big hopes of visiting the majestic Blue Nile Falls (Bahar Dar), the
impressive subterranean rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and the
allegedly great buildings of the ancient capital, Gondar, were all
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scuppered with the sudden flaring up of hostilities on the Eritrean
border, and subsequent cancellation of all domestic flights north of the
capital, Addis Ababa. There were no trains either, and with a
positively asthmatic 30 km/hr-bone-shaking ride, you would not want
to bus it. Ethiopia is a big country! I flew one-hour south from Addis
Ababa to the small town of Tum in search of some of the rural tribal
life. As I went further south, I saw scenic hills and forests resplendent
in green livery, occasionally dotted with the circular tepee-style
thatched roof of a basic hut. On arrival, I took off with a local guide to
see the Majinga Tribespeople. It was a truly fascinating experience, as
one fear that tribal Africa may soon die out.
Apart from the historical tour, that I was thwarted from taking in
the north, there really is no fixed pattern for seeing Ethiopia. Tourist
information is extremely limited, even if you do want to follow the
distinctly small sightseeing crowd. If you are a traveller who enjoys
just making it up as you go along, Ethiopia is definitely the place for
you!
By Dominic James
Kenya
The busy streets of Nairobi are visually compelling. Customised
matatus (about-town minibuses) pull suddenly out of side streets,
spewing black smoke and loud rap music into the city air. Middle-aged
women sit on pavements vending small pyramids of ripe passion fruit.
Teenage street kids walk with a dazed look in their eyes from sniffing
too much glue. Smartly dressed businessmen cut a sharp contrast
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with their neatly pressed suits. Nairobi life is exciting, organised
chaos, and I love it.
Variety beckons outside Nairobi too. Take a week-long safari trip
to the Masai Mara National Park and Lakes Baringo and Nakuru for
a wonderfully preserved “Jurassic Park” feel of wildlife as it used to be.
Enjoy ripe tropical fruit, freshly caught seafood, and cold Tusker beer
on Mombasa’s sun-drenched coast, and accost your ears with the
cacophony of sounds of the virginal Kakamega Rainforest.
Yet it is the people who will stay in your memory. There was the
impoverished hospital worker who insisted on buying me (the rich
westerner, capable of spending the equivalent of a month’s nurse’s
wage in a day) a beer. Or, the former Mau Maus, who had fought for
freedom in the 1950s against my country’s colonial rule, welcomed me
into their pool tournament. The immense kindness and friendliness
of these people—giving so much of what little they had—never ceased
to amaze me.
Safari
Kenya thrives on the safari market. Indeed, a safari is one of the
best ways to see the landscape, animals and people of the countryside.
Touts line the streets of most cities and will offer you “African price”
(the price the locals pay) because of a “friend” or “relative” inside the
company. Most of these are simply small deals that do not qualify as a
con because they are selling actual safaris with actual companies.
Nearly all of the safari operators—except Abercrombie and Kent, the
most expensive in town—use touts, and it is an acceptable means of
getting business. There is a huge range of tour operators, not all of
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who are extortionate, so shop around. One of the most eco-friendly but
expensive ways of seeing all the game is by balloon.
Further information
Balloon Safaris, Adventures Aloft. Eagle House, Kimathi St., PO Box
40683, Nairobi. Tel: (2) 220-592
Cave Exploration Group of East Africa, PO Box 47583, Nairobi.
By Neil Mcdonough
South Africa
To appreciate just why Cape Town is considered one of the most
beautiful cities in the world, venture up Table Mountain that
dominates the city’s skyline. Then rappel back down with Abseil
Africa for 2000 Rand. It is the longest commercial abseil in the world
and provides an even better view when dangling at 120m. Cape Town
also offers meat-lovers a veritable cornucopia of delights, in large size
portions. Mama Africa in Long Street is particularly popular.
You can take a coach with Translux to Pretoria via Johannesburg.
It takes 18 hours (350 Rand). Pretoria has a very different
atmosphere from multicultural Cape Town. It is hard to imagine the
previous apartheid troubles in Cape Town; however, for safety’s sake,
taxis are recommended for late night travel in Pretoria. A cheap
backpacker’s dorm costs around 35 Rand. A safari in Kruger Park
with Bundu Bus costs around ･20,000 for four days and three nights
including guide, transport, accommodation (2 nights in tents, 1 in the
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private game reserve), and all the food you can eat. You can book
tours from hostels in Cape Town.
In Southern Africa the famous “Big Five” (the lion, leopard,
buffalo, rhino and elephant—renowned as the hardest to kill) are
difficult to find given their declining numbers and superb camouflage.
However, with patience and luck you can see the Big Five, species of
antelope, warthogs, honey badgers, jackals and the entire cast of the
Lion King. Remember, all prices are fixed and non-negotiable
http://www.mg.co.za/mg
By Jenn Smith
Southeast Asia
Cambodia
It is only in the past few years that Cambodia has become a
viable destination for travellers. Even now, there are only certain
areas that are safe to visit, as there is a real threat from landmines all
over the country. It is a difficult country to travel in but Cambodia is
well worth the trouble.
Cambodia’s charms are its friendly people, wealth of both ancient
and modern historical sites, and its beautiful natural setting. All of
these were scarred by the violent events of the latter half of the 20th
century. Relative peace has descended on the country since the
death of Pol Pot in 1998, and the old scars are slowly healing.
Cambodia is still fragile and, as with any destination, you should
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check with your country’s embassy before travelling there for
up-to-date information.
The two places you must see on your visit to Cambodia are
Angkor Wat and Phnom Penh. Phnom Penh is the capital and has a
mix of classical Khmer architecture, as seen in the Royal Palace and
Silver Pagoda, and more recent French colonial architecture. The
Silver Pagoda has tonnes of silver, and features two 17th-century Buddhas. One is made of Baccarat crystal; the other is made of gold
and almost 10,000 diamonds. The city is located at the meeting point
of three rivers, the Mekong, Tonle Sap and Bassac. If you can find a
reliable and knowledgeable guide, going up the Mekong is a beautiful
and unforgettable experience.
Near Phnom Penh are two of the most horrific sites in history.
One cannot experience the beauty of Cambodia without going to Tuol
Sleng and Cheoung Ek, in an attempt to understand the horrors
suffered by the Cambodian people. Tuol Sleng is the Genocide
museum, which was built as a schoolhouse but soon became a prison
and torture area. Cheoung Ek is better known to the west as the
Killing Fields.
Angkor Wat, built in the 12th century, is located to the north of
Phnom Penh. It is an ancient complex, and was thought to be
mythical until a French naturalist stumbled upon it in 1861. It is the
largest religious monument ever constructed, and consists of 5 towers
and a moat. Also in the area is the ancient capital of Angkor Thom,
which features a Buddhist temple called Bayon that exhibits many
aspects of Hindu architecture.
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You will almost certainly meet numerous monks while you are
here, but women should be careful to stay at least one foot away at all
times. The nearest modern city, Siem Reap, has some excellent
accommodation as well as beautiful views of the Great Lake, Tonle
Sap. Fly to Siem Reap, or take the hydrofoil, as regular boats are too
dangerous. Also watch out if you are off the beaten track around here,
as this was a very popular place to plant landmines.
Further information
http://www.cambodia-web.net Cambodian government website.
http://www.cambodia.org Cambodian Information Center
http://www.embassy.org/cambodia Embassy in Washington D.C.
Indonesia
By Henrietta Preiss, Neil Mcdonough and Peter Greenburger.
This archipelago, made up of over 13,700 islands is home to many
indigenous tribes, near-extinct wildlife, primary rainforests and a
wealth of different languages and cultures. There is something for
everyone. Indonesia’s geography comprises white, sandy beaches, lush
jungle, active volcanoes, mountains and, of course, towns and resorts.
You need months to explore Indonesia fully. Most travellers only
have time to visit the islands of Sumatra, Java and Bali. Each and
every island has its own distinct character, and there are still vast
areas of Indonesia that lie unexplored. Remember that malaria is
rife in most of Indonesia, especially on Iran Jaya in the East. With the
exception of the tourist-ridden streets of Kuta in Bali, the most
noticeable thing about Indonesia is the people’s kindness and
hospitality.
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Bali
Bali, long billed as a tropical paradise, has been largely ruined by
mass-tourism in the past decade. Kuta is the main traveller’s hole,
but be warned: the beach and streets are filthy, the atmosphere is
decidedly unfriendly, and crime and violence are common. If you are a
labels-addict or a party animal, you will love it. There is a lively,
“beery” nightlife and an abundance of designer surf gear shops. If you
are into surfing, however, avoid Kuta; the sea is cleaner and the surf
is better at Nusa Dua, just down the road. In the centre of Bali is the
little town of Ubud—a quiet escape from hedonistic Kuta. It is the
cultural heart of Bali, where everyone is friendly and the general
atmosphere is more relaxed. Take a day or two to wander around the
markets and the quaint shops selling all kinds of local and traditional
Balinese artefacts.
There are nightly Balinese dance performances, which are worth
watching. By far, the most rewarding way to see the island is by
renting a car with some friends. It is very cheap and you can bargain
it down. You can get to places previously untouched by the tourist
trail and get to know the real Bali, meeting and spending time with
the locals. Bali is diverse and beautiful. You can drive from Lovina’s
black volcanic beaches in the north (from where you can take a boat at
dawn to see the dolphins) to Tirtagangga. From here, follow the
coastal road, taking in the rugged seascapes and gradually heading
inland, as the road snakes its way through valleys of lush, luminous,
green terraced rice paddies. Tirtagangga, in the middle of wide-open
paddies stretching down to the sea, is probably the most tranquil
place you will find on Bali.
Lombok
“This is how Bali used to be,” said a local on Senggigi Beach.
Lombok is heaven compared to its neighbour. It is about four hours by
ferry from Padangbai on Bali to Mataram on Lombok. The island is
quieter and less tourist-trampled. The beaches, notably (and
coincidentally) Kuta Beach, are the kind you have dreamed
of—endless stretches of hot white sand teased by the gentle turquoise
waves of the Indian Ocean.
Many climbers go to Lombok to hike up Gunung Rinjani to see its
large green lake and various hot springs. Take a little boat from
Senggigi out to the Gili Islands, off Lombok’s northwest coast, for a
real touch of desert island life. Gili Trawangan is the most developed
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of this trio of tiny, almost unspoiled islands, where transport is by
horse-drawn buggy, bike or foot. Gili Meno and Gili Air are sparsely
populated but have some accommodation.
Diving and snorkelling to see turtles are the order of the day here.
The islands are changing fast and hotels are on their way, so go soon
to savour their laid-back tranquility. Be careful of the buggy drivers.
We were scammed and almost attacked.
Due to violence against Christians, travel to Lombok is pretty risky at the
moment. Check with your country’s embassy for the most recent warnings.
Flores
Flores is one of the most beautiful of the Indonesian islands. It
was a Portuguese colony before being sold to the Dutch; about 95% of
the population is Catholic and the island is dotted with churches. The
Komodo dragons and the three multicoloured volcanic lakes of Mount
Keli Mutu tempt many travellers to make the long journey by boat
over to Komodo and Flores. Komodo is a dry and desolate island
close to Flores. Banu Nggulung is the best place to see the 4metre
long lizards.
Sumatra
Sumatra is many traveller’s favourite Indonesian island, because
it is so diverse in its blend of cultures and astonishing array of flora
and fauna.I went to Bukit Lawang, a great place deep in the jungle of
North Sumatra. It is an orang-utan sanctuary and is surrounded by
jungle. It is really hot and really wet, so be prepared with some light,
cotton, easy-to-dry clothes. Waterproofs will just make you sweat.
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All the hostels are on the banks of a fast running river that you
can go down in rubber inner tubes that you can hire for very little.
Do a hike if you can—the terrain is mountainous in places, and it can
be hard work trekking through some very thick, hot rainforest.
I then went to Lake Toba, created by a volcanic crater. It is the
largest such thing in the world, so big that the island created in the
middle of the lake by the last eruption is the size of Singapore.
Java
The most populated and developed island, Java is an island of
contrasts, comprising big cities and the squalor that comes with them,
but at the same time, live volcanoes, lots of history and beautiful
scenery.
Yogyakarta
I did not know until I touched down that Yogyakarta is a
historical and cultural treasure. It has two important historic
temples, Prambanan and Borobudur—the latter is often compared to
Angkor Wat in Cambodia. There are two narrow parallel alleyways
filled with guesthouses, food and travel shops.
Jakarta
I was told by many not to go to Jakarta, rumoured to be boring,
noisy, dirty and dangerous. However, I thought Jakarta was great fun.
It was not as dangerous as people suggested. Jalan Sabang, littered
with satay vendors, is reputed to be the best in the world. I cannot
disagree. I saw the gross but majestic monuments erected by Suharto
and the ships in the old harbour. I also went to Chinatown, where I
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saw some burned-out buildings from riots. Indonesia is an amazing
place and I urge all to take their time there.
By Antony Giblin
Laos
In Luang Prabang, there is the aroma of freshly brewed ground
coffee, the taste of just-baked baguettes and the rustic ambience of
decaying provincial buildings. Further along the street, exquisite
gold-roofed temples, palm fringed courtyards and saffron-robed novice
monks can be seen sauntering down the dusty road under the musky
warmth of a late afternoon Asian sun.
Luang Prabang, ancient capital of Laos, rests idyllically on the
banks of the Mekong River surrounded by mountains and is arguably
the finest example of the exotic colonial and Asian mélange that once
existed throughout this intriguing corner of the world. For this reason,
it remains one of the highlights of any trip to Southeast Asia.
Yet the great thing about Laos as a travel destination is that
many of the traits that make Luang Prabang so special—a French
colonial atmosphere, wonderful people, and a picturesque
setting—can be found throughout the entire country. From the
laid-back dilapidated capital, Vientianne, to the eerie ambience of the
Champasak Angkor-era temple ruins, the mysterious “Plain of Jars,”
the wonder of the Mekong, and colourfully clad tribal peoples, Laos
offers a diversity of travel and sightseeing experiences unmatched in
the region. It is also one of the cheapest countries in the world to
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travel, and has not, as yet, suffered the effects of mass tourism so
acutely felt by its neighbours, Thailand and Vietnam.
A suggested itinerary for those with around three weeks to spend
in Laos might begin with a border crossing at Huay Xai, from
Northeast Thailand and a detour to the Chinese border to see
indigenous hill-tribes, before taking an over-night, slow-boat trip
down the Mekong to Luang Prabang. After a week exploring Luang
Prabang, river caves and the Plain of Jars, many people choose to
take the Route 13 bus to Vientianne and then wind their way down
the tail of the country to the spectacular Don Khong Mekong River
archipelago and the Champasak temple ruins. Re-entry into Thailand
is possible at Chong Mek.
Travel in Laos is by bus, riverboat (if waters are high enough), or,
for the truly adventurous, by the state owned Lao Aviation. As Laos is
still emerging from decades of relative international isolation, its
infrastructure for handling tourism is still developing. If you are
thinking of going to this wonderful country, you will need lots of
patience, a tolerance for cold showers, highly developed sign-language
skills and the latest edition of the Lonely Planet!
By Rainer Mehl
Malaysia
Malaysia consists of the peninsula south of Thailand, and Sabah
and Sarawak, two states on the island of Borneo. The latter offer
many opportunities for jungle treks and visits to long house cultures
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that have recently given up their nomadic lifestyle, due to accelerated
logging. The Peninsula has a lot of colonial history and a rich racial
mixture. Like the people, the food comes from all parts of the world
with Indian and ‘straits’ Chinese being the largest non-Malay
influence.
Georgetown or Penang is an island on the north west coast; it has
great colonial-era architecture and is a true melting pot of cultures.
It's one of my favourite cities in Asia. There is great street vendor food
to be had and also many banana-leaf curry restaurants, where US$2
will buy you an all-you-can-eat vegetarian curry served on a large leaf.
In the centre of town you can find places of worship for more than five
religions. Overlooking the town there is a high plateau reached by
funicular railway. Here it is always 5 to 10 degrees cooler than the
rest of the city and it's a good place to go for a walk or enjoy a scenic
lunch.
The capital, Kuala Lumpur, has become a high-tech city. It has
some massive buildings, including the Petronas Towers, the world's
tallest building. Yet it also has a lot of buildings of historical interest
and many of these can be found around the Merdeka Square area.
In the south, Melaka has had Portuguese, Dutch and English
colonial masters, and you can see these influences in this small city's
architecture. The most interesting parts of Melaka are near the town
hall (built under the Dutch) and around the river. Melaka has many
museums and nice relaxed shopping too (especially during the week
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when people from neighbouring Singapore are not clogging up the
malls).
The east coast has nice beaches, but is also the most
conservatively Muslim area, with many ‘dry’ towns, and the nearest
beer days away. In the centre of the country are great hill stations
like the Cameron Highlands, and there are many opportunities for
good treks and visits to tea plantations and butterfly farms. If you
have a longing to pet a scorpion, this is the place for you! Taman
Negara National Park has 4343sq km of jungle, where you can go
trekking and there are Hides and Salt Licks where you can spend the
night and look for wildlife such as tapir, tigers and rhinoceros.
If you go to a hide be careful about transportation; I got stuck on
a dock for several hours because my “ride” did not come. There is also
a canopy walkway, high up in the trees, with some great views (and
monkeys if you are lucky). One of my favourite activities was spending
four hours drifting down the river in an inner tube, watching out for
monkeys and lizards on the shore.
Practicalities
English is spoken widely in Malaysia, and transport and
accommodation can be easily arranged. Malaysia is a bit more
expensive than some other countries in the region, such as Thailand
and Indonesia, but you can still live for under US$20 a day. Small
restaurants pop up at sundown, often taking over whole stretches of
street, and they are usually some of the best and most affordable
places to eat.
How to get around
Bus service on the Peninsula is good, modern and reliable, there
is some train service, but it is not nearly as convenient. Another
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popular mode of transport is long distance/shared taxis that have
various rates based on size of group, type of car, and time of day you
are travelling. This is where a good guidebook will help in negotiating
prices. In cities local buses are cheap and frequent, and both
motorcycle and standard taxis are common. If you don’t see a meter,
negotiate a price first and be ready to bargain. To get to Taman
Nagara, you can take longboats up the river, which are also a popular
form of transport in Sabah and Sarawak (on Borneo). To move
between Borneo and the mainland, you have a choice of boat or plane.
Scams and other problems
Malaysia overall is quite safe, with relatively strict penalties for
crime. None the less, in Taman Negara, have someone take care of
your things if you go into the jungle overnight, and be aware of boat
pick up-times, as it is easy to be stranded on some boat dock at the
edge of the jungle. Another thing to look out for is a private individual
posing as a taxi driver. At times this can work out well and be much
cheaper than taking an official taxi, but at others you might find
yourself—as we did—helping to push the taxi up a hill in the middle
of the night, with your belongings on board ... let me tell you, it makes
you think twice about the “bargain” price you negotiated. The only
other hassle is that people are likely to tell you what you want to hear,
as long as they can make a sale. Double check information, as the
truth is liberally applied to such things as arrival points and times of
buses and boats, leaving you stranded in the most unlikely places!
Visa requirements
Visitors will receive at least a 30-day visa upon entry, but actual
length depends on your nationality. Israeli Nationals need Diplomatic
approval—check before you go! Sabah and Sarawak have special
permits, but follow much of the same rules.
http://www.takara.bc.ca/pages/IT.html Photos
By Jenn Smith
Myanmar (Burma)
In Myanmar, human rights abuses are widespread, and the BBC
has called it “one vast labour camp.” Tourist dollars are actively
courted, but they go into the hands of an oppressive government.
One of the world’s modern heroes, pro-democracy activist Aung San
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Suu Kyi, head of Myanmar’s major opposition party, is still under
house arrest in Yangon.
She has asked travellers to refrain from visiting until a legitimate
government is in power. But, if you do decide to go, start in Yangon
(Rangoon), the capital. The Shwedagaon Pagoda as the best-known
tourist site in Myanmar deserves its reputation. On your way north
to the Royal Palace in Mandalay stop at Bagan. Bagan is an 11th
century city containing two thousand pagodas that rival Angkor Wat
in Cambodia.
You will be required to change $300 US into the local currency,
but you are forbidden to remove any Burmese currency. Spend your
money on the people of Myanmar, not on their oppressors. So, you
could go on a government-approved tour, and stay at luxury hotels
that put money into the government’s coffers. Or, you could try to help
the people by staying in family-run guesthouses, using local
transportation, and buying only from the locals. Sometimes
journalists and activists disappear, or find some of Myanmar’s opium
in their luggage. Tourists complain about being harassed by
government bureaucrats. It may be the government you have most to
fear. Check the latest warnings before you arrive.
Further information
Burma Action Group, Collins Studios, Collins Yard, Islington Green
London N1 2XU Tel (71) 359-7679
Open Society Institute, 400 W. 59th Street, 4th Floor, New York,
NY 10019 Tel: (212) 548-0632 Website: http://www.soros.org/burma
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By Jenn Smith
The Philippines
The Philippines, with over 7000 islands to choose from, offers
something for everyone. You can volunteer, sunbathe, party, hike,
shop, scuba dive, take in the amazing blend of Spanish, Chinese and
Indigenous cultures; and just about anything else one might like to do
on vacation. Almost everyone speaks English, and almost all signs are
in English too.
As a starting point, Manila is a must. The main international
airport is here; so most travellers from Japan will land in Manila. Two
budget hotels with great reputations are Adriatic Arms and Malate
Pension. You will probably stay in the Malate area, which is where
most of the hotels, restaurants and money exchanges congregate.
While you are in the area, check out Hobbit House. This is a fantastic
restaurant with good food (mostly American style), great service and
perhaps the best live gigs in Southeast Asia. Also in the area is
Robinson’s Place. For those of you who have been in Japan’s inaka for
quite some time, this will give you reverse culture shock. It is the
spitting image of a North American suburban mall, right down to the
mall rats. Malate is only a jeepney ride away from Intramuros, the old
walled city of Manila, dating back to the time of Spanish conquest.
Jeepneys are one of the most interesting things in the Philippines.
For approximately 3 pesos a kilometre, you can squeeze into the back
of a colourful, intricately decorated converted jeep with the dashboard
covered in Catholic trappings (rosaries, statues of the Virgin Mary
and Jesus, passages from the Bible, etc.). Check the destination on the
window of the jeepney, hop on, pass your money up to the driver
through the other passengers, and hold on for dear life.
From Manila, decide which direction to take. If you are going
north on Luzon Island, head to Baguio city. From there you can take
a bus to any destination on Luzon. The famous Banaue Rice Terraces,
reputed to be the eighth wonder of the world, are about 8 hours away
by bus from Baguio. Near Banaue is the small town of Sagada, whose
two claims to fame are its caves and hanging coffins. It is quite a hike,
but an adventure not to be missed!
Surfers take note: San Fernando in La Union province (not to be
confused with all the other San Fernandos) is earning a reputation for
excellent surfing. The best place to start is at La Union Surf Resort,
just a few minutes from San Fernando city by jeepney. Also, La Union
Surf Resort offers some of the best-guided hiking tours in Southeast
Asia. They have a great website. http://www.sflu.com/surf
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If you are headed west from Manila, to Palawan or Boracay, you
will need to take a plane or ferry. Boracay was once home to some of
the most beautiful beaches in the Philippines, but it is quickly
becoming commercialised. Palawan is still as close to unspoilt
paradise as most people can get. The capital, Puerto Princessa, is
where the best lodging is to be found, but explore the rural areas for
stunning tropical flora and fauna.
South from Manila, via bus and ferry, is Mindoro Island. Puerto
Galera, at the northern tip of Mindoro, is a scuba diver’s paradise.
One of the most inexpensive places to get your PADI certification is in
the Philippines, and Puerto Galera is a favourite spot of many JETs.
Asian Divers on Small La Laguna Beach has first-rate instructors
who speak a variety of languages and come highly recommended.
You can e-mail them at http://www.admin@asiadivers.com.
The nightlife in Puerto Galera does not get any better than The
Point Shooter Bar, located just above Asia Divers. Their motto is
“Your body is an evil thing. It needs to be punished, so get to The
Point!” They have many drinks that will punish your body, but you
will have such a good time you won’t realise you are being punished
until the next morning. The food in the Philippines is a treat to the
senses, and there are plenty of Filipino restaurants in the Puerto
Galera area to keep your strength up for diving.
There are literally hundreds of other destinations in the
Philippines. Keep in mind that there have been problems lately with
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tourists being kidnapped by rebels in the south. Check your country’s
embassy for travel warnings before you go, and keep away from
trouble spots.
By Iain Drummond
Singapore
Singapore is an ideal destination for a long-weekend break from
Japan. It is a nice, compact place to walk around. It is possible to see
just about all the sights in a four or five day period. In Singapore,
ultra-modern skyscrapers tower above immaculate colonial era
buildings and mosques rub shoulders with Hindu and Buddhist
temples. There are also massive shopping malls, loads of restaurants,
and a good mix of other attractions.
The most famous building in Singapore is the Raffles Hotel,
named after Sir Stamford Raffles, the British founder of Singapore.
As well as being the place where the Singapore Sling was invented,
the hotel was name-checked in the work of a number of writers (and
former guests) such as Somerset Maugham. Raffles is an incredibly
expensive place to stay but non-guests can still sample a Singapore
Sling in one of the hotel's bars. I had my Singapore Sling in the Long
Bar, where there is no dress code.
Although the drink was overpriced at S$20, the surroundings
(and the Singapore Sling) were nice. Elsewhere in Singapore, two
statues have been erected in honour of Sir Stamford Raffles. One
stands in the Padang area—home to the best of the country's
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colonial-era buildings—while the other can be found next to the
Singapore River, marking the site where Raffles first arrived in
Singapore. Another well-known Singapore statue is the Merlion
beside the Anderson Bridge. Water shoots out of the mouth of this
white half-lion/half-fish.
One of the reasons why Singapore is an interesting place is
because it has a diverse population. The population is a mixture of
Chinese (the majority at around 75%), Indian, Malay and, well,
various others from across the globe. When Singapore was first settled
the different races were allocated their own areas. Two of the
must-see areas—though it would be hard to miss them—are
Chinatown and Little India.
A great deal of restoration work has gone on in Chinatown in
recent years. I enjoyed just strolling around its streets. Chinatown's
two-story buildings with their colourfully painted shutters made a
pleasant change from the ubiquitous skyscrapers. The area, in
addition to containing shops, restaurants, and a number of Buddhist
temples, also has a 150 year-old Hindu temple, the Sri Mariammam.
The tower above the temple's entrance has exquisitely carved and
painted Hindu figures and is an amazing sight. The renovators and
restorers have also been at work in Little India. There are temples,
markets, and narrow lanes selling all things Indian. For both
Chinatown and Little India I followed the Lonely Planet's suggested
walking routes and found them to be very good.
Singapore's most popular tourist attraction is Sentosa. To enjoy
all that it has to offer you really need to spend a whole day there.
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Sentosa tends to be described as a “fun park” but I thought that that
was a slight misnomer because many of its attractions—such as the
Images of Singapore museum and Fort Siloso—are rather cerebral.
That said, it does also have a water park, a man-made beach, an
aquarium, and “spectacular” light show (which began to pall pretty
quickly). You can get to and from Sentosa by bus, ferry, or cable car.
The cable car offers great views, particularly at night.
If you're interested in history you might enjoy a visit to Changi
prison museum. Changi was where the Japanese interred allied
prisoners of war during World War Two. The museum tells how the
war impacted upon Singapore and of the appalling treatment of the
POWs and of ordinary Singaporeans. The story was told in an
interesting way, using many first-hand oral sources and prisoners'
letters. It takes about 45 minutes by bus to get to the museum,
located almost next door to modern-day Changi prison.
Singapore seems to have earned a good reputation as a place for
shopping and eating. Yet while there were certainly lots of gigantic
malls and all the shops you could ever want, the prices did not seem to
be that much cheaper than Japan. I can have no complaints about the
food though. You can get all the different types of Chinese food
(Hunanese, Hainanese and so on), Indian, Malay, and everything else
besides. I tried eating at the Hawker centres—open-air food
courts—and found them to be cheap and delicious.
As for getting around, that is fairly easy in Singapore. The
subway (MRT - Mass Transit System) is spotlessly clean and efficient;
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uses are regular and cheap and they go everywhere. There is also a
Singapore Airlines bus that does a circuit of all the tourist spots. If
you are flying with Singapore Airlines the bus costs S$3; if not, it is
S$6. Happily, it doesn't matter when you visit Singapore because the
weather stays much the same throughout the year (hot and humid but
tolerable). It may not be the cheapest or the most naturally beautiful
country in Asia but this often overlooked destination still has a lot to
offer.
By Rainer Mehl
Thailand
Thailand is a favourite among JETs, this is no wonder
considering the many islands, great diving, good food and other
activities. I headed to northern Thailand to Chiang Mai, from where
you can do treks into the mountains to visit hill tribes in the “Golden
Triangle.” On my trek, I rode an elephant, took a bamboo raft down a
river, stayed with a local family in the jungle and ate great food
prepared by our guide.
This is quite standard fare and you can do everything from an
easy one or two days to several weeks of trekking. Bangkok is the best
party town anywhere to some, a cesspool to others, but the cheap
shopping and sheer number of sights make it an easy place to stay for
while. The main backpacker's street is legendary and you can find
everything from fleabag rooms and transport scams to great travel
bargains and fabulous food. You can also buy any type of copied
product you can imagine.
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To the south are many beaches and islands, some of which are
famous for their raves and parties (Pha Ngan, for example), some for
their “sun, sand and sin” (Phuket) others for their high class, yet
affordable restaurants and hotels (Samui) and others again for their
diving (Tao). I loved Tao, even if the dive boats are getting more
numerous every year. The diving is still good and the relaxed
atmosphere and good restaurants make the island a great place to
stay. There are a great many destinations within Thailand and much
depends on your reason for going and the time of year you decide to
travel, as weather patterns change from coast to coast. Food is
outstanding, spicy and generally very fresh and inexpensive. There is
a seedy underbelly to the country with paedophilic tourism,
prostitution and AIDS all major problems. The recent financial crisis
has not helped matters either, with more and more people desperate
to make a living any way they can. Thailand remains a place where
you can travel cheaply, but also can get good value for your money if
you spend a bit more. Here more than any other place I have been you
get what you pay for. In Bangkok it is possible to get a “room” for
US$2 a night, but this might only have a thin sheet of plywood as a
wall and a cold shower down the hall. Down the same street there will
be air con rooms with hot showers for US$10. Street vendors make
some of the cheapest and best food, but again nice restaurants also
abound.
How to get around
Good state-run buses go almost everywhere, are affordable, have
air-con and many night services. Domestic flights are not too
expensive, and the train is also an option, though at times it requires
reservations. The tourist services leaving Kao San Road area of
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Bangkok are often not too reliable, and at times leave you stranded,
though this situation seems to be improving. In town there are
tuk-tuks, mopeds with sidecars, where you should negotiate a price
before getting inside. Motorcycle taxis are also popular in Bangkok, as
traffic is a nightmare. Many boat services operate between the islands,
and there are agents in all the ports, who will also have mini-bus
service to many destinations.
Scams and other problems
Do not buy gems to make profit, or enter into a deal to “lose” your
traveller’s cheques. In Bangkok, beware of the theft that occurs in the
ill-secured rooms of many hotels, and on crowded buses look out for
pickpockets. As mentioned above, some bus services from the Kao San
Road area will leave you stranded, or a “free room” that was promised
will cost you a “cleaning” charge. We once took a bus, were dropped off
at 4am in the middle of nowhere and then had to fend of taxi drivers
who tried to tell us that we had been stranded, when in fact the
“connection” we had been promised came around at 7am. Finally,
drugs are available quite freely, especially in the mountains and at
parties, but there is still a death penalty for possession of larger
amounts, and even a shorter stay in a Thai prison is not something
you would want to endure.
Suggested trips
In one week you can either head to Chiang Mai for trekking, or
to one of the many islands for some rest and relaxation. In two weeks
you can either try to do both, or do one or the other more intensely. In
three weeks it is possible to see a fair bit of the country, but I have
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met people who have gone to one or another of the islands for a 3 day
stay and were still there two years later.
Visa requirements
Most nationalities will receive a visa upon entry, and this can be
extended or renewed by re-entry at any border.
http:// www.takara.bc.ca/pages/IT.html photos
By Rainer Mehl
Vietnam
In the last few years Vietnam has seen a great increase in
tourism, and for good reason. From Hanoi in the north to Ho Chi
Minh (Saigon) in the south, there is much to see.
In the north, the centre for discovering the hill tribes is Sapa,
close to the Chinese Border. I loved the little old ladies who will
bargain you into the ground over every piece of fabric they sell you.
Also in this region—and within easy reach of Hanoi—is HaLongBay.
After a bus trip to the coast you take a ship into a vast area of
amazing limestone cliffs that jut out of the ocean. I saw jellyfish the
size of small lifeboats!
You can take cheap tours around here lasting a few days and
luxury cruises are also available. South of Hanoi is the Perfume
Pagoda, a grotto at the top of a large hill, which is reached after a boat
ride and hike. The boat is a paddleboat and with eight people on board
you float serenely through the countryside. When I did the hike I was
lucky as I saw some dancing being performed at a temple at the base
of the hill.
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In Hanoi, you can visit the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh. He looks
like he passed away just a few days ago. You have to leave your
camera at a checkpoint, walk in a group (at least you are not expected
to parade march like the locals), and maintain a solemn appearance.
In the mausoleum you are not allowed to stand still. In the centre of
the country there is old DMZ and all the war sites, but also the former
capital, Hue, which has many UNESCO protected sites, including the
Graves of the Vietnamese Emperors.
A bit further south is HoiAn, an old trade centre that has
rediscovered itself as a place for tourists to have custom tailored
clothes made cheap. It also offers beaches and easy access to old
Khmer sites related to Ankor Wat in Cambodia. Closer to Saigon is
Dalat, the old French hill station and Vietnamese honeymoon capital.
If you thought Japan was cheesy in places wait till you see this! It
takes kitsch to a whole new level.
The Mekong River Delta is south from here and you can explore it
by bus and boat tours from Saigon. Whenever I come here, I cannot
stop taking pictures of the floating houses and markets, fish farms,
minority villages and enthusiastic kids who live here and wave at
every boatload of tourists. Saigon itself is a bit Tokyo, a bit old Paris
and a whole lot Asia, an interesting mix.
Food is also a mix of Asian and European, with both mini
baguettes (Banh Mi) and noodle soup (Pho) available from street
vendors everywhere. People are extremely industrious and quite open
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to tourists, and there appeared to be no lingering hard feelings over
the war. Due to the overall low cost and mix of Asian, European and
American culture, Saigon has plenty of restaurants. The standard of
food was often excellent and prices were very reasonable. It is possible
to live on US$10 a day or less in Vietnam, with guesthouses offering
beds from $3. If you spend a bit more you can quickly get air-con and
satellite TV. (I have stayed for $10 and had all the modern conditions
and breakfast as well ... but I had to walk up 5 flights of stairs.)
Transport is quite cheap, though foreigners pay up to seven times
the price of locals, as the government mandates this. The tourist bus
that connects Saigon to Hanoi cost $25 for the whole trip, and you can
interrupt as often as you like! Domestic Flights are also well priced.
How to get around
Much travel is done by tour or at least by tourist bus. Hotels,
cafés and restaurants are often also tour operators and travel agents.
This makes travelling easy, as they can also arrange for train and bus
tickets. Favourites are the bus from Saigon to Hanoi, and mini tours
by bus, boat, jeep, and train or combination thereof, lasting from 1 to
5 days and going to almost all sights in the country. Tours often
include hotel as well as all transport, and a 3-day tour will cost about
$45. Local transport is either by cyclo, the romantic but slow bicycle
rickshaws, or by moped taxi, where you sit behind the driver and
hang on for dear life. In the larger towns metered taxis are starting to
replace the older modes of transport, and you can also hire your own
moped for about $7 a day.
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Scams and other problems
When taking cyclos or mopeds, negotiate a price before you get
in/on and stick to it, even if the driver pulls over and wants more. Also,
hang on to your bags as traffic is tight and bags get snatched. Robbery
and theft are not a real danger, though they are not unheard of. The
most common practice is for “guides” to take you to shops, restaurants
and hotels of their own choosing, where they will get a commission for
doing so.
Suggested trips
If you only have one week you should make a choice between the
south and the north, and explore the areas outside of the respective
capitals. In two weeks you could do both ends of the country, by flying
between Hanoi and Saigon. In three weeks you can travel the length
of the country, and make short stops along the way. My personal
favourites are HoiAn and the Mekong Delta.
Visa requirements
A visa is required, and a 30-day tourist version costs about
US$100 for most nationalities. It has to be applied for in advance.
http://www.takara.bc.ca/pages/IT.html
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Eastern Asia
China
From the empire of the sun to the middle kingdom
By Will Jasprizza
Getting there
After my three-year tour of duty on JET, I set off to visit the
Middle Kingdom. I entered China via Hong Kong where I arranged
my flight and obtained a 3-month visa. I used Four Seasons Travel
(Room 102-103 Commercial House, 35 Queen's Road, Central, Hong
Kong TEL 25239147, 28680622 FAX 25265401).
First impressions
There were people everywhere day and night. After 3 years in a
small town in Ehime, I was confronted by a mass of life. During the
day people bustled to school and work, street vendors plied their trade
and bicycles zipped between all manner of vehicles, ancient and
modern. Come evening and the streets were filled with people playing
cards, walking, kicking balls, drinking at cafes or just shooting the
breeze. No one bows. I was still in Japan-mode and often did the
involuntary nod but it was never returned. There was no overt
politeness, not that people were not polite. The best thing was that I
no longer felt like a gaijin.
The smell of capitalism hung in the air. China has changed
enormously, particularly in the last few years, and it seemed to be
anything but communist. People sold goods on blankets in the streets
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and the latest bootleg DVD's and CD's were hustled on every corner
and even in supermarkets. Foreigners no longer have to use a special
currency (FEC - Currency); you use renminbi (people’s money) just
like the rest of the country. I used an ATM at the plush Swiss hotel to
draw on funds on my Australian account, and changed yen with few
problems.
Accommodation
I was lucky that whilst in Beijing I stayed in a flat—a real
Chinese flat—courtesy of a Chinese friend. I was told that technically
this was not allowed but that a blind eye was turned to the practice,
as so many foreigners inhabited Beijing. Three rooms and a
toilet/shower that really was a toilet/shower: the squat toilet was in
the middle of the shower floor. No TV, no phone but thankfully an air
conditioner. Not as humid as Japan, but still damn hot. In the
mornings people practised tai chi in the communal garden, and in the
evenings, played endless games of majong.
Food
Prepare to feast! Food was ridiculously cheap and plentiful, but
only at the local restaurants. At Starbucks, a coffee would set you
back 25 yuan when for the same price in a local shop you could get a
plate of rice, a meat dish and a huge plate of vegetables. Those who
became alcoholic whilst in Japan will like China—a bottle of Tsing
Tao beer from a shop costs only 3 yuan.
The varieties of food overwhelmed me. I got the impression that
after the rigours of the Great Leap Forward everyone was making the
most of actually having food. And did they have food! Sichuan
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(Szechuan) hotpot, Peking duck, boiled gyoza, fried gyoza, whole fish
40cm long on a plate dripping with sour sauce ... I could go on.
A Chinese friend asked me what I wanted for lunch one day and I
said "Gee, how about some dog!" 30 minutes later I opened the plastic
takeaway container and saw what looked like beef. "What's this?" I
asked. "Dog". Pushing thoughts of childhood labradors aside I tried a
bit but the gamy flesh had too powerful an aftertaste. Half the fun of
eating in China is not knowing what is on the menu. I visited the
shopping district of Wan Fujing and found a friendly insect vendor.
Grasshoppers, ants, what looked to be cockroaches, and scorpions!
The scorpions were crispy and delicious. Just once in their lifetime,
everyone should try and eat an insect.
One of my Chinese friends said to me "Do you know that if an
alien landed in the US it would be put on Oprah or Jerry Springer; if
it landed in Japan it would be studied and researched; but if it landed
in China it would be eaten!"
Language
Chinese is not hard. Think about all those movies where the
Chinese characters speak in a Pidgin English: "You go job" or "You eat
beef" without any care for indefinite/definite articles, conjugations of
verbs and so on. That is because in Chinese, it is that simple. In a
restaurant, "I'll have the dumplings please" becomes "wo chi jioazi"
(literally: I eat dumpling). "I want to go to Tiananmen"—Wo yao chu
Tiananmen (I want go Tiananmen). Where is the toilet? Cesuo zai nar
(toilet is where?). Yes, there are 5 tones, but even if you get the tone
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wrong, context usually ensures that everyone understands when you
say horse instead of mother.
Even so, on my first visit to a restaurant I had a bit of "newly
arrived in Japan" dejavu, except that there were no plastic dishes in
the window. Two possible solutions: (1) have a friend teach you the
name of a couple of dishes and order the same dishes at a few
restaurants for practice. I have eaten gong bao ji ding (spicy chicken!)
all over Beijing. This is insurance against starving. (2) carry the
Lonely Planet phrasebook. Even if you mangle the tones it is not too
hard to spit out the words for fish (yu) beef or pork (niu). La mien is
noodles (say la mien and what Japanese “Chinese” food springs to
mind?) Gyoza is jioazi. And you can always point at the kanji in the
book, or even better, at the food the people at the next table are
eating.
Travel
I spent most of my time in Beijing, but I did make a few side trips
to the Great Wall, the Summer Palace, Tiananmen Square, the
Forbidden City, and Beidahe. Getting around is much simpler than in
the bad old days when everyone had to be escorted by special guides.
Booking trains and such is a breeze. Just grab a nearby university
student to translate if you have any hassles!
Ten years ago foreigners could only stay in designated hotels.
These days in Beijing you can stay at most places without a problem,
but take care outside the big city. In Beidahe I went with Chinese
friends to check in at the hotel only to be told that the hotel had no
licence for foreigners. I tried two more hotels nearby before finding
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one that would take me. Beidahe is a beach resort, and the bigwigs of
the Chinese government apparently go there for their holidays. It has
yellow sand and warm Pacific swell. It also has some really cool
concrete animals (including killer whales and penguins), though the
dilapidated buildings near the beach do not provide the best of
backdrops.
Everybody should see the Great Wall. You can get there by bus
but they go to the over crowded tourist section of the wall, and you are
limited somewhat by the bus schedule (a very early departure). If you
have three friends then sharing a taxi will give you greater flexibility
for about the same price as the bus. Haggle. I had to ask four drivers
before I found one who would take my friends and I (and bring us
back) for 300 Yuan. A 2-3 hour drive gets you there and then it is time
for sturdy footwear. Fight off the hawkers with "bu yao!" and walk
about a kilometre to the Wall. If you have any sense of adventure you
will climb the impossibly steep steps and not only catch the amazing
views from the wall turrets but improve your resting heart rate at the
same time.
The Summer Palace is amazing; a huge expanse of gardens and
waterways which takes hours to walk around. It is crammed with
sightseers, but still a welcome change from the traffic filled streets of
central Beijing. You are likely to be asked to jump in a few people's
photos. A friend and I wound up surrounded by schoolchildren, each
wanting a photo with the waigoren (Chinese for gaijin). The biggest
difference—10-year old kids would come up and say with flawless
pronunciation, "May I have a photo with you?"
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Beijing has a collection of ancient back alleys known as hutongs.
Explore these on bike and feel as if you have slipped back a few
hundred years ... at least until you round the corner and hit a KFC.
The houses, which back on to the hutongs, possess high stonewalls
and gorgeous courtyards, perfect for an evening sitting under the
stars and sipping the local brew. I recommend befriending someone
who lives in a hutong!
Tiananmen Square is huge and very busy. It is hard to push from
one's mind the scenes of the tanks rolling in during the pro-democracy
demonstrations. The square is so wide that it can fit tens of thousands
of people. Students may come up to you and ask you to visit a gallery,
but they are not pushy—just after a free English lesson. The
Forbidden City is both awe-inspiring and disappointing. It is huge,
magnificent and humbling. Scenes from The Last Emperor flashed
though my mind, but the grandeur has been lost to the ravages of the
Cultural Revolution. Cheap, shoddy paint jobs and garish
reconstructions abound, and one has the sense of incredible loss of
history, art and culture. Still, I walked around gaping at the sheer
size of the place.
I flew down to Shanghai for $100 US one-way. It has old
sandstone buildings, elegant streets, gorgeous evening cityscapes, and
fun people, A beautiful city where the locals have been playing the
capitalist game for a lot longer than Beijingers.
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Going out
Beijing plays a good host to innumerable foreigners and its
nightlife centres around San Li Tun (also referred to as the bar street).
A cross between Khao San Road and Roppongi, one end of San Li Tun
is full of bars, restaurants and cafés while the other end is the haunt
of ladies of the night. Beers are pricier in San Li Tun, 25 yuan for a
Tsing Tao.
Fancy some Thai or Indian food? Go to San Li Tun. They even
have a cool Japanese restaurant, too. Lots of the bars have live music.
Hit The Den to boogie until dawn, or Havana for open-air beers and
salsa dancing until 3am.
Chinese friends
China is more fun if you hang out with the locals. The value of
English in obtaining a coveted job with a multinational has resulted
in a super-abundance of excellent language learners. And do not think
you will be limited to talking about what sports you play or whether
you can use chopsticks—a meaty discussion about the events
surrounding the Tiananmen massacre is quite possible. I discovered,
however, that there tends to be a clear division between those who
follow the government line and those who, often through personal
experience, know what actually happened.
I spent 3 months in China. I picked up enough Chinese to get
around and stay fed. I learned a lot about history, people, culture and
menus. Most of all I made a lot of friends. If you want to lie on a beach
go to Thailand. If you want to add some unforgettable experiences to
your life, go to China.
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By Richard Scarth and Tao Robinson
Hong Kong
“City of Life” is how the Tourist Association describes Hong Kong!
Hong Kong is like an undeveloped country with a developed country’s
wealth. There you might find some wealthy local family living in a
shoebox with two children, a maid, a grandma...and of course, a
Mercedes. Then you will understand how six million people fit into a
1000 square kilometre area! Once you have landed, you will find
yourself surrounded by contrasts: photographing dilapidated
buildings next to hi-tech skyscrapers, watching stressed people on
their way to the office whilst others slow down for morning tai-chi
practice.
Being a former British colony, most people are able to speak a
little English, so getting around is not too difficult, especially with
cheap and efficient public transport. However, you do have to know
which bus to take. There are literally so many things to discover and
to keep you busy—from all types of sports to clubs to cultural events.
Hong Kong has, however, remained very traditional. The Star Ferry,
the Peak Tram, the Lantern Festival, magnificent firework shows,
Dragon Boat races, the Hungry Ghost month and Feng Shui are just
some of what makes it special.
Even after the hand-over in July 1997, the small expatriate
community has kept a cosmopolitan feel to the city with plenty of
western style bars and many great restaurants. Eating is a major part
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of Chinese culture, so you are spoiled with a wide choice of cuisine
(dim sum is a must!). Then “shop ‘til you drop” for designer labels,
electronics or the latest gadgets. Hong Kong is hectic but a fun and
energetic place to live or visit. Visitors should try to avoid the horrid
humidity in the summer.
South Korea
South Korea takes off its mask
By Stephen Savage
Late September is a good time to visit South Korea. From Japan
the flights can cost as little as \40,000. It can lead to an Asian
experience that is similar to Japan in some instances, yet its own
distinct culture at the same time.
Spend a day or two in Seoul. Travelling from the airport is easy
using the subway. Visit the National Museum, National Palace and
Gallery and gain some perspective on the manner in which Japan
occupied Korea during the war. After pigging out in such western
restaurants as Pizza Hut or TGI Fridays, experience the spicy Korean
delights of Kimchi and Bulgogee, or the wonderful variety of
vegetarian foods on offer at Sanch’on off Insadonggil (Tel: 735-0312).
Next, make your way to Andong and find the real Korea, the historical
Korea and indeed the international Korea at the Andong Mask Dance
Festival.
Andong is situated about half way down the length of South
Korea. Travel by bus, train or, if you prefer, by plane to Yechon and
then by bus to Andong. Andong, now with a population of 200,000, is
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said to be the cradle of Korean culture, in particular Confucian and
Buddhist culture. There are a number of splendid old temples, stone
pagodas and noblemen’s houses, as well as abundant cultural assets
that have been preserved more carefully here than anywhere else in
Korea.
One of the more enriching cultural displays is that of the Andong
Mask Dance Festival, which started in 1998. As they say in the
advertisement literature, “If you have never watched a mask dance,
you cannot get into heaven!” A short distance from Andong is the
Hahoe Folk Village. It is an ancient Yangban (aristocratic farmers)
village surrounded by beautiful countryside and renowned as a model
of national folk culture and tradition.
The Hahoe Puoishingut Talnori, a dance consisting of nine acts
combining shaman rituals with popular entertainment, and the
centrepiece of the Mask Dance Festival, is still performed there in all
its vivid detail. The Hahoe Dance, with its vaguely Shakespearean
overtones, tells the stories of nine of the twelve masked characters
(three have been lost). They include Kakshi (bride), Yangban
(aristocrat), Sonbi (scholar), Pune (flirtatious young woman),
Choraengi (servant of Yang ban), Paekchong (butcher), Halmi (old
widow), Chung (depraved Buddhist monk), and Imae (foolish person).
The theatre is open air and the crowd is encouraged to participate.
This two hour-long dance starts off the festivities, which last for four
days in late September. Dancers come from many different countries,
including the United States, Japan, China and Indonesia, to join their
Korean counterparts in this extravaganza.
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Performances also take place in the Village of Hahoe, as well as a
fireworks display and a lantern display. The village itself is worth a
visit, if only to appreciate its age, contribution to Korean culture and
the unique houses that face outwards in all four directions from the
centre. This area of Korea is most definitely worth a visit. The festival
was thoroughly enjoyable and the people were cheerful, helpful and
friendly.
By Stuart Malcolm
Mongolia
Gone are the days of unswerving emulation of all things Soviet.
Mongolia has realised that tourism represents a major foreign
exchange generator and has embraced it with gusto. Visas are now
easily available at borders, backpacker guesthouses are springing up
and it is even possible to send e-mail from Ulaan Baatar. Ulaan
Baatar itself is an ugly Soviet city best avoided. However, it is the hub
of all transport and is home to the only edible food in the country, so it
is hard to bypass.
Once out of Ulaan Baatar, roads in any sense of the word
disappear, and there is nothing but wild grassland and desert. For
Europeans used to a sardine-style life, the wide-open empty expanses
are one of the major attractions of Mongolia. The night sky is truly
entrancing—clear enough to see orbiting satellites and bright enough
to read by moonlight.
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Outside of Ulaan Bataar, all accommodation is in some kind of
tent—either one that you bring yourself or in a local's ger. Private
gers are much cheaper (about $5 per person) than tourist gers, but
obviously more basic. $5 a night would appear to be a fair price but
when you get several people in one ger for a couple of nights, the
family ends up getting a small fortune. As tourism is still in its
infancy, the locals have not seen enough tourists to become greedy,
but it will come, and it will inevitably bring disturbing changes to
Mongolia's delicate eco-balance. Another problem to be aware of is
that guides are keen on buying sweets to hand out to kids. Not only
do they ruin the kids' teeth, but also the wrappers just get thrown
away. A much better alternative is to buy a box of apples in Ulaan
Baatar and give them out. Many kids have never seen apples before.
Wherever you stay, the food is utterly atrocious—boiled mutton,
mare’s milk, and rock hard cheese. And then there is the vodka.
Therefore, it is essential to stock up on vitamins from home and fruit
and vegetables from the market in Ulaan Baatar. Most people hire
vans in Ulaan Baatar and explore the countryside in small groups, so
it is possible to survive as a vegetarian with a little advance planning.
In 1998, there were two guesthouses in Ulaan Baatar, Gana's and
Bold's. They are not easy to find, but touts meet the incoming trains.
Gana's, situated near Gandan monastery, offers ger accommodation
and ice cold beers but an unreliable water supply. Bold's, situated
near the circus, offers beds in flat and reliable water.
Both charge $5 a night. Gana's has a well-used notice board
where travellers advertise for companions for hinterland trips. It is
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fairly easy to put together a group of people, a truck or van, a driver,
and a guide to go to places like Hövsgöl lake and the Gobi. Drivers
charge a flat rate per kilometre, irrespective of the type of vehicle.
Travel around the country is very slow and tough (reckon on 20km/h).
A trip to Hövsgöl via Mörön and back via the monastery at Karakorim
and the Mongol Els sand dunes can be done in 12-15 days.
Wherever you go, the highlight will be the nomadic lifestyle of the
locals. Most people still wear traditional clothes: a long del tied with a
sash, riding boots and some kind of incongruous hat like a trilby or a
Stetson. This looks even more bizarre when seen on a motorbike with
a sheep strapped to the back. Herds of sheep, yaks, camels and horses
can be seen all over the country. Eagles and marmots are everywhere.
In mid-July, the Nadam festival takes place in Ulaan Baatar.
Thousands of people descend on the city for several days of archery,
wrestling and bareback riding. It is an amazing spectacle.
By Elizabeth Sharpe
Nepal
Nepal has so much to offer off the beaten track as well as on. By
far the most popular activity in Nepal is trekking in the Sagarmatha
(Everest), Annapurna, or Langtang regions. Even if you only have a
week, it is well worth it. In addition, there are white-water rafting,
rock climbing, and jungle safari expeditions. The Kathmandu Valley
has plenty of sites for those with limited time. There are Hindu and
Buddhist historical sites in Kathmandu: Swambu, Pushputinath, and
Buddinath. Outside Kathmandu is Bhakthapur, a well-preserved
Newari village. Nuwakot has short day-treks and outstanding views
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of the Langtang range at sunrise. Try a weekend or weeklong retreat
at Kopan Monastery, a Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Kathmandu.
There are plenty of sights I would recommend outside of the
Kathmandu valley: Pokhara is the start of most Annapurna treks.
Tansen, a small Newari town nestled in the hills, is famous for Dhaka
cloth and gleaming brassware. Janakpur is a Tarai town lit up by
Janaki temple at night. It is also the home of the Maithali artists,
world-renowned for their artwork. Lumbini, south of Butwal, is the
birthplace of Buddha. In Royal Chitwan National Park, you can ride
an elephant or go on a safari walk through the jungle to view tigers,
wild elephants, rhinoceros, birds, and monkeys.
Getting Around
You can either go through one of the numerous travel agencies
found in Thamel, Kathmandu, or go on your own. Buses that run from
Kathmandu are frequent but slow. Outside of the Kathmandu valley,
flag down the local bus, and it will stop for you. Flights to Pokhara,
Butwal, and Lukla are also available from Kathmandu. If you are
trekking, it is not necessary to go with porters and guides. Just get a
hold of a trekking guidebook, available in the numerous new and used
bookstores in Thamel.
When to Go
October through January affords the best possible views of the
mountains. This is the best time to go trekking, though it's also the
busiest tourist season. Going later avoids heavy traffic on the trails,
but in winter, the passes and some lodges may be closed. April is a
beautiful month to trek in the Annapurnas; the rhododendrons are
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looming. Late June through the end of August is the monsoon
season.
A popular trek during the monsoon is to Muktinath, in the
Annapurnas, because it is in the rain shadow. Costs: Nepal is
incredibly affordable compared to Japan. Guesthouses in Kathmandu
cost about $4 or $5 a night. No need to reserve in advance. Food is just
as inexpensive. Kathmandu, Pokhara, and trekking routes have a
wide-range of food catering to western tastes: pizza, spaghetti, eggs
and toast. Huge bottles of Nepali beer cost just $1. Try the local
alcoholic brews: tungba—a barley drink famous in eastern Nepal, or
roksi—made from rice and is brewed best by the Magars in western
Nepal.
Well worth trying is the national dish: dal bhat, a delicious
combination of rice, lentils, curried vegetables and pickles. Do not
miss out on the tea. It is over a cup of tea that you will get to know
your hosts. Life in Nepal happens while sipping tea. Also, dress
conservatively: you will be more respected and less conspicuous. Bring
a good, comfortable backpack, one you don’t mind carrying for hours
at a time. There is very little space on the bus. So pack whatever you
can fit on your lap. Less is best. You can rent trekking equipment in
Kathmandu. If you are trekking and you do not want to rent one,
bring a 20-degree sleeping bag, or a warmer one if you’re going in the
winter. There is no heat where you will be sleeping and the
guesthouses in the mountains do not have bedding. Bring toilet paper,
but do not put it in the toilet unless it is a pit latrine. On the trail,
there is enough litter, so bring out whatever you bring in, bury well,
or burn trash.
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While in Nepal you will undoubtedly be accosted by the children
who beg for 5 rupees or something equivalent. Do not give. It is better
to donate your money to the charities in Nepal or support the
activities of the Peace Corps, Volunteer Service Overseas, Japanese
Overseas Service Volunteers, or the NGOs that are working in Nepal.
Travelling to and from Nepal
Royal Nepal Airlines is the international and domestic airline.
There are flights to China, India, Thailand and Japan. Visas for India
can be obtained from the embassy in Kathmandu. The travel agency
tours for Tibet handle the group visa for overland tours. Visas for
Nepal can be obtained on arrival at the airport. $15 for a 15-day visa,
$25 for a 30-day visa, $40 for a 30-day double-entry visa or $60 for a
60-day multiple-entry visa (The political situation in Nepal is
changeable. You should contact your country's foreign affairs
department to find out their latest advice for travellers.)
By Stuart Malcolm
Tibet
Without a shadow of a doubt, Tibet is the most amazing place in
the world. Forget your Taj Mahals, Eiffel Towers, Niagara Falls,
Machu Picchus and Ayers Rocks; the Potala is far and away the most
majestic sight you are ever likely to see.
However, and this is a big reservation, Tibet is essentially an
occupied country being steadily ethnically cleansed by the authorities
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in Beijing. Most people are aware of the plight of the Dalai Lama and
the Tibetan government in exile but this is only scratching the surface.
For example, in 1999 the World Bank gave China a massive loan to
relocate thousands of Chinese farmers to the Tibetan plateau in an
attempt to further dilute the Tibetan population. By going to Tibet
you are giving a serious amount of money to the Chinese government
in the way of various "permits" and fees. There are therefore a
number of options for travel to Tibet:
• Do not go. Campaign for freedom by joining an organisation like
the Free Tibet Campaign (9 Islington Green, London N1 2XH,
tibetsupport@gn.apc.org).
• Avoid giving money to the government by travelling rough
(extremely rough) and being evasive, e.g. entering by truck at
night under a pile of yak skins and avoiding the guards at all the
tourist attractions.
• Pay for your permit (this does not include any entrance fees,
meals or accommodation) but you should be very aware and
always think about where your money is going. Actively choose
Tibetan hotels, shops, restaurants and tour operators. Do your
research before you go and learn as much as possible while there.
The Dalai Lama's autobiography, Freedom in Exile and Dragon in
the Land of Snows by Tsering Shakya are excellent starting
points.
• Inform as many people as possible on your return.
Rhetoric aside, there are four land routes and two air routes to
Lhasa. The easiest and most normal routes are Golmud to Lhasa by
bus, Lhasa to Kathmandu by landcruiser or plane and Chengdu to
Lhasa by plane. The other two routes are more difficult and
time-consuming. It is possible to hitch from Kashgar to Lhasa via
Mount Kailash, once you have paid your ･500 fine in Ali.
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The eastern routes from Lhasa to Chengdu and Yunan overland
are extremely difficult, and travelling in the opposite direction is all
but impossible unless you happen to look Chinese or Tibetan and go in
disguise. The last two routes involve several weeks of tough, high
altitude travel.
On any overland trip it is essential to stock up on warm clothing
and plenty of food and water. No one wants to be stuck at the top of a
5000m pass with a broken bus, half a packet of hobnobs and the latest
in designer beachwear. Be aware of altitude sickness. Flying into
Lhasa (3800m) or entering Tibet from Nepal (1000m to 5000m in one
day) presents the most serious problems. Coming from Golmud
(2800m), the ascent is more gradual but even with acclimatization it
is best to take things easy on the first few days.
Regulations on visas and permits change on a regular basis but
generally speaking, it is easier to get from China proper to Tibet than
from Nepal to Tibet—once in China it is simply a matter of picking up
your permit (or pile of yak skins) in Golmud or Chengdu. The
Friendship Highway from Lhasa to Kathmandu is generally unpaved
but regularly scraped, which makes one wonder how serious they are
about their friendship. Now that travel to Tibet is becoming easier,
Lhasa is on its way to being the new Kathmandu; Internet cafés are
springing up and all self-respecting restaurants have banana
pancakes on their menus. However, outside the main tourist season
(September to October), there are very few travellers. Indeed, in
winter the city is packed to overflowing with circumambulating
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pilgrims from the countryside with prayer wheels visiting the holy
sites.
Lhasa and its environs are home to the most impressive
monasteries. The reconstructed Ganden monastery is particularly
stunning. There is a wide selection of Tibetan guesthouses, the Pentoc
being the newest and best appointed. Mr. Tundru is very reliable
and can organise land cruiser trips to the Nepalese border. Outside of
Lhasa the main sights are the Tashilumpho Monastery at Shigatse
(home of the Panchen Lama), the Kafkaesque fortress at Gyantse and
the concrete toilet block at Everest Base Camp (5200m).
By Stuart Malcolm
Central Asia
Ex-soviet & Central Asian Republics
For the purposes of this article, Central Asia is taken to mean the
ex-Soviet republics of Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan,
Turkmenistan and Tajikistan. The republics have been independent
since 1991, but they are taking their time in shaking off the shackles
of Soviet bureaucracy. This, together with the chaos resulting from
the collapse of their economies, means that they are not the easiest of
countries to visit. However, if you do decide to go, you will find several
outstanding sights, amazing bazaars and warm hospitality. Despite
their language Russian is still the lingua franca. Very few people
speak English so a little Russian will help to smooth over official
hurdles.
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Visas
Visas are likely to be the single biggest hassle associated with any
trip to this area. Regulations change by the minute, and border
guards answer to no one, so getting up to date information is crucial.
Some guards and police officers feign ignorance of visa regulations
and try to "fine" travellers. Police hassle is an everyday occurrence in
Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, especially in bus and train stations. Do
not put up with this—stand your ground and they will give up. Stalin
gerrymandered the borders in the twenties. As a result, roads
criss-cross borders and there are enclaves of one country in another.
In the old days this was not an issue, but now there are border posts
at every crisscross, making for a fun time for Mr. Visa Checker. A
highly entertaining account of a recent trip to the region can be found
in Giles Whittel's Extreme Continental.
Kazakhstan
This is the largest and emptiest of the republics—ideal for
nuclear testing and rocket launches. Almaty, the former capital, is the
only place with anything approaching character, but it is Russian
character, down to the onion dome church in Panfilov Park. Despite
groaning stalls in the market, the restaurant situation is dire—a lot of
the places have shut down and the remaining few serve up overpriced
slop. Shaggies is notable only for the name. Perfectly acceptable
accommodation can be found at KIMEP, the management institute;
basic rooms are available in the bus station. Reckon on $30 a day.
Uzbekistan
Architecturally, Uzbekistan has the most to offer. The legendary
Silk Road cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva are magnificent if
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a little sanitised. A thriving black market in Uzbekistan makes
everything ridiculously cheap—$15 a day should cover the average
traveller. Private guesthouses are starting to appear. Notable in this
department is Mubinjohn's place in Bukhara, a traditional Uzbek
house in the middle of the old town with a slightly cranky owner. A
day or five spent drinking tea, eating kebabs and watching the
wizened elders playing chess and backgammon by the Lab-i-Hauz pool
is the perfect way to relax. Tashkent has a handful of vaguely
interesting museums but is mainly a transit point. The Ferghana
Valley offers the itinerant traveller very little in the way of sights.
One hidden (in fact, non-existent) attraction is the Aral Sea. A trip to
Moynak reveals the folly of Soviet attempts to conquer nature. Once a
thriving fishing port, it now lays some 40km from the sea as a result
of the gigantic irrigation schemes used to feed the region's cotton
fields. Rusting ships lie stranded in the sand, while dust storms play
havoc with the health of the inhabitants.
Kyrgyzstan
At the junction of the Pamirs and the Tien Shan, Kyrgyzstan is a
veritable playground for lovers of the outdoors. Trekking, rafting,
skiing, hot springs and camping are all possible. The best place to
base your self is Karakol at the eastern end of Lake Issyk-kul. There
are many companies offering their services but one that stands out is
Yak Tours, based in their little guesthouse on Ulitsa Gagarin.
Vegetarians, or anyone of a squeamish disposition for that matter,
should be on the lookout for the sheep's eyeballs that are sometimes
served up. The grizzly Valentin knows everyone and can organise
anything.
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On the other side of the country Osh bazaar is an amazing
experience. Covering a massive area, thousands of people barge past
selling everything from melons to medicine. Internal transport is very
cheap and, as with the other countries in the region, it is easy to get
around by shared taxi. Internal flights are also dirt-cheap—Osh to
Bishkek is about $20 although a $15 tax for foreigners was payable in
some places.
Turkmenistan
Over 90% desert with little in the way of sights, Turkmenistan
sees far fewer tourists than Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan. However, what
it lacks in sights it more than makes up for with posters of President
Turkmenbashi. Responsible for a cult of personality outstripping even
North Korea, the man is using the country's Caspian oil and gas
income to fund a massive program of construction and glorification.
The revolving Turkmenbashi statue atop a three-legged spaceship in
the centre of Ashgabad is particularly memorable. Turkmenistan is
famous for its carpets, but the carpet museum in Ashgabad is
disappointing. Like the Aral Sea, Merv is a classic non-sight.
Apart from a couple of crumbling buildings there is nothing to see
of the ancient city. However, this is missing the point—the ruins are a
stunning testament to the destructive power of the Mongols. This city
of one million was wiped off the map by an army of Mongol warriors
with orders to behead 300 men, women and children each.
Tajikistan
Linguistically, this is the odd one out of the republics. Tajik is a
Persian language as opposed to the Turkic languages used in the
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other countries. There is a long running civil war raging, and
information on the situation is difficult to come by. A 5000m-border
crossing branching off the Pamir highway from Khorog to Osh is
apparently being built to connect Tajikistan with China. If the war
ever settles down this would be an alternative to the Torugart pass
from Kashgar in western China to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan.
By Claire Mortimer
India
The best-laid plans will inevitably go wrong in India. Be flexible.
This noisy, exotic, dirty, exhilarating place is truly an experience you
will never forget. Before arriving in Delhi, it is advisable to book
accommodation and get the guesthouse to send a taxi, price
pre-determined, especially if your plane arrives at night. We met
countless people who fell for the classic taxi scams; for instance, they
were told their guesthouses had closed down or were full and so were
taken to the driver’s choice of place to stay.
Walking through the main bazaar in Old Delhi, we were accosted
at every step, being so obviously new to the place. Be careful of travel
shop touts who will try anything to entice you into their shops.
Sometimes it is best to simply ignore them. Rude as it might seem, it
works better than confrontation. To be sure of reliability and
reasonable prices, use the official government travel and information
centre at Connaught Place. For all the usual reasons, and as in most
other Asian cities, it pays to be cautious when considering a rickshaw
ride. Before you get in, agree on a price and insist on no detours.
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Our first stop was Agra for the Taj Mahal, where we had some of
the most peaceful and serene moments of our time in India. It really is
a must, especially at sunrise and sunset, despite all the crowds, the
intense heat and hassling locals. In the Hindu Holy City of Pushkar,
we joined in the mad fun of the Camel Fair (beginning of November).
It is best to arrive a few days before the main festival to ensure
accommodation and witness most of the camel racing and trading.
The festival is fascinating. Thousands of people arrive from nearby
towns and villages. There were amazing brightly coloured saris
everywhere, thousands of camels, street stalls, snake charmers, scary
fair rides, and people having their teeth pulled out in the streets!
Although no alcohol is allowed, I recommend a “special yoghurty
drink” full of “herbs” called Bang Lassi—enjoy!
Remember that in India, buses and trains are painfully slow and
unreliable, so if you are going to the airport, allow yourself plenty of
time for the journey. India is not for the fainthearted. You will be
shocked by the extreme misery and poverty, outraged at the caste
system and face many difficult situations. However, you will meet
fantastic people, see beautiful places and have an unforgettable time.
By Ana Gaston
Rajahstan
My first stop in Rajahstan was Jodhpur, more romantically
known as the Blue City. Jodhpur is located on the Eastern edge of the
Thar Desert that stretches across a large part of Rajashstan. The
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first thing I noticed was the wealth and healthy faces of the people, a
far cry from the destitution I had witnessed in Delhi. The main
feature of the town is a gigantic fort that rises up on a sandstone
plateau high above the town.
The local people paint their houses blue to help keep the soaring
temperatures tolerable in summer. The people are a strong and
artistic group. The women wear incredibly bright saris, such as pink
and canary yellow or bright lime and sapphire blue with orange
patterns! With their dark skin, these colours seem to radiate an
impressive beauty and many wear heavy gold jewellery to
complement them. The men are also stunning in their large, sweeping
turbans of red, pink or orange. They usually sport carefully manicured
moustaches preened upwards at the tips. They wear dhotis (a cloth
wrapped around the waist), and perhaps a waistcoat.
The Rajputs (Rajasthanis) had a huge fort erected to defend
themselves from the aggressive Muslim Mughal invasions. I spent a
whole day wandering around the palace within the fort admiring its
glitzy rooms covered in coloured glass, mirrors and mosaic. At sunset I
visited the small temple at the western tip of the fort plateau and took
in the view of the town below. From Jodhpur I travelled across the
Thar Desert to the small city of Jaisalmer on the western border,
which is now an important military outpost due to its proximity to
Pakistan.
Unfortunately, tourism in Rajasthan is so developed that it
detracts from some of the pleasures. I spent four days relaxing and
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wandering the fort walls before setting forth into the Thar Desert for
a camel trek. These treks are a popular option with travellers and it's
an experience I would recommend to others. Inside and outside the
fort, hoteliers and trekking companies compete with each other, but I
went with Desert Boys Hotel’s who organised a three-day/ two-night
trek. I was driven one hour into the desert to meet the camels and
their owners. The camels finished grazing in the bushes and were
loaded up before I climbed on. Everyone in our small group had a
camel and steered it with a rope that was attached to a metal rod that
went through the camel’s nose.
The Thar Desert, diverse in its shades of colour, was enchanting.
We climbed over dunes and reddish/mauve gravel. We rode for three
hours and stopped in a tree grove for lunch. While the camels grazed
we helped the drivers prepare our food. Every meal was delicious and
plentiful: usually porridge for breakfast, curry and fruit for lunch,
biscuits and tea at sunset and noodles, chappati and dahl for dinner.
The temperatures were hot in the day (even though it was winter)
and we all wore hats and scarves wrapped around our faces to protect
us from the powerful rays. In the evening the weather was cool and
during the night and early morning quite chilly. Both nights we
slept on sand dunes under the stars with just a blanket beneath our
sleeping bags. The evenings were relaxing and enjoyable; our group
gelled really well and we were entertained by one of our camel guides
who sang us traditional songs.
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Further information
An Indrail Pass is not the best value for money, but it is a great way
to avoid the constant queues for tickets. You can buy them in advance
from JTB. Tel: 03-1284-7391.
By Claire Mortimer
Oceania
Australia
It may not seem like much of a cultural discovery at times, but
Australia should not just be dismissed as “The UK in the sun.”
There is a lot to see and do and travelling around Australia could not
be easier. It is, however, so vast that several months are needed to do
it any justice.
January and February are perfect months to arrive and explore
the south, then work your way up north by June to enjoy winter in the
tropics. Cheap and popular travel is by bus (the main companies are
Greyhound and McCaferty’s or The Oz Experience for a more Club
18-30 style trip!). Trains can be expensive, as are flights, but check
your ticket, as you may be eligible for cheap domestic flights. A
cheaper option is to drive a relocation car or camper van. The roads
are easy to drive on and it can be refreshing to be off the tourist bus.
Be careful when buying a car from other travellers, who will
undoubtedly have hammered it into the ground on long journeys, as
have others before them. Remember that you must register your car
and that you need a certificate declaring that it is road-worthy. If you
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plan to go into the bush then it is vital that you join the RAC; you
never know when you will need their recovery service. The RAC can
also do a check on your car for a small fee.
We flew into Brisbane and made our way down the east coast,
passing through Surfers Paradise, a developed and commercial resort
mostly for package holidaymakers. Byron Bay meanwhile is more of a
backpacker’s area, a smaller, quieter place with great beaches, surf,
good diving and a chilled hippie hangout.
It is easy to stay a while in Byron Bay, but we moved on to Coff’s
Harbour and then Sydney to do the usual sights and witness the
excellent gay and lesbian Mardi Gras at the end of February. An
evening of glam, gorgeous gyrating bodies and some great post-parade
club nights (tickets in advance) showed Sydney at its finest. Sydney is
a fantastic city with great beaches—such as Manly, a popular
destination that can be reached by taking a short ferry ride from
Circular Quay—and a brilliant nightlife. Sydney Harbour Bridge and
the famous Opera House are spectacular sights, particularly on a
sunny day or at night when both are lit up. (You can get cheap tickets
for the Opera House by turning up half an hour before a performance
is due to begin. Unsold tickets can be bought at cut-price.) Close by
the Bridge/Opera House area is the Rocks, a lovely part of Sydney.
Despite its proximity to these sights, the Rocks is a calm, quiet area
most of the time. It has old-fashioned pubs and colonial architecture.
An un-missable day trip from Sydney is the Blue Mountains,
which can be reached by public transport. Canberra is six hours down
the road and although many people dismiss this city, you can visit the
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new Parliament building, there is an excellent free war memorial
museum and it is pleasant to chill in the street cafes and enjoy life in
this squeaky clean, picturesque city. You can ski in the nearby Great
Dividing Range between June and July.
Five hours on is Melbourne, probably my favourite Australian city.
You can get anywhere on the old trams. Visit the gaol to see what the
“Poms” did to the convicts and then drop by Chinatown for delicious
Chinese and Vietnamese food. Around Melbourne, there are a few
places to escape the backpackers for a while and get a taste of real
Australian life. Bendigo, an old mining town, and the Yarra Valley,
with its wineries (with free tasting!) were good stops. From Mildura
through Swanhill, Echuca, and Yarrauong, we spent a few lazy days
enjoying water sports in the sun. The Goldfields Tourist Route tracks
the major gold rush centres of the last century, in particular Ballarat
and Bendigo. We spent a week in Shepparton, a small rural town,
where we did some fruit picking (January to April, Tel: 058-320300)
and got involved in small town Aussie life with herds of emus grazing
at the roadside—not a Pom in sight; it was excellent!
Along the magnificent Great Ocean Road, over 300km to Torquay
and Warnambool, we took in the spectacular coastal scenery; great
beaches, national parks and the famous 12 Apostles rock formations.
There were good, cheap camping and caravan sites all along the route.
They are even cheaper by mid-March, as the weather starts to get
chilly. We travelled onward, through the hills to Adelaide with brief
stops at the spooky blue lake of Mount Gambier and Kingston.
Adelaide still has an English colonial feel to it and is another popular
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ase for travellers looking for work. We moved on to the delights of
Barossa Valley in the lovely rolling hills, where there are over 50
wineries to visit. If you go to the Gawler Information Centre, the old
man behind the counter will give you a great itinerary for an off the
beaten track scenic drive between Angaston and Tanunda. Short
straw for the driver, though, as the unlimited wine tasting goes down
a treat!
We geared up the car with water, camping and emergency
provisions and headed up the road to the red centre to experience the
Australian Outback. This, for me, was the real Australia. The road
from Adelaide to Alice Springs and Darwin is tarmac and very
straight so it makes the driving easy. Fill up at every gas station so
you will never get stuck. Do not drive at night, as the kangaroos are a
very real danger and if you go off road, you must have 4WD or you
will get nowhere. Taking the Stuart Highway north of Adelaide, it
soon gets very hot in the barren desert, but it is remarkably peaceful
and the sense of space (especially after Japan) was awesome. Coober
Pedy gets bad press, but I liked this barren, arid and seemingly
inhospitable mining town where Mad Max 3 was filmed. It is famous
for its Opals and the Old Timers Mine is also worth a visit. You can
also visit the dugout homes. These are houses cut from the rock to try
and stay cool in the 50-degree centigrade summers.
Further north is the Northern Territory and the red centre. It is
the least populated state but has millions of sheep, cattle and flies.
Guaranteed you will buy one of those daft Aussie hats with a net or
corks. You will look really stupid but will not care. In the Northern
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Territory, you can do various Aboriginal activities and learn about
their customs, art and way of life. You can also learn about the white
settler’s history. Remember that to enter Aboriginal land you need a
permit, which is not easy to get. There are tours, mainly up north
near Kakadu. This may be the closest you will get to a real insight
into an Aboriginal community.
It is then a seven-hour drive to Uluru (otherwise known as Ayers
Rock). The purpose-built service village at Yulara tries to
accommodate all budgets but it is expensive even to camp there. You
have no other choice except being ripped-off. The village, however,
has prevented the rock from being spoiled by huge commercial
enterprise. It really is breathtaking and awe inspiring to watch the
sun rise or set on the rock in this magical place. The various walks
around the base of the rock were very interesting and there is a lot of
Aboriginal art to see and legends to learn. Abide by the rule and do
not climb on the rock, so as not to offend Aboriginal spiritual beliefs.
From Uluru we went to Kings Canyon. If you’ve got a 4WD it is
worth taking the alternative Uluru-Kings Canyon route via the
Henbury meteorite craters. The canyon was spectacular with huge
cliffs, lush gorges, amazing views, easy trails and bathing in the lovely
oasis. Just before Tennant Creek, you will hit the Devil’s Marbles
conservation reserves, hundreds of spherical boulders scattered
randomly in the bare desert. At Tennant Creek, you have to decide
whether to go north to the famous Kakadu National Park or east back
to Queens land. After checking the weather, we did not go north due
to a bad and prolonged wet season that made many roads impassable.
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Near Charters Towers, we were lucky enough to stay at a friend’s
cattle station. The closest thing you can do to this is a farm-stay. I'd
recommend it as we had a brilliant time herding cattle in by
helicopter, and helping to brand and vaccinate them. We did, however,
opt out of the ball-chopping and de-horning! Those red-hot days at the
cattle station—staying with salt of the earth Aussies, working hard,
enjoying a cold stubby and a barbecue in the evening—really made my
Australian experience memorable. We went up to Cairns, stopping en
route at quiet Mission Beach to relax and do some scuba diving.
Cairns, in the subtropical north, is a good base for activities like
diving, rainforest trips, bungee jumps, horse riding, sea kayaking,
rafting, ballooning, skydiving and so on. There is also, inevitably,
the beery nightlife.
What better way to cure a Saturday morning hangover than to
jump out of a plane at 14,000 feet? Skydiving was one of the
highlights of my trip and I used Paul’s Parachuting on McLeod Street.
You can jump from 8000, 10,000, 12,000 or 14,000 feet. I watched all
the others jump out and there I was, all alone, climbing even higher!
The views over the rainforest and the reef were stunning, although it
was not the view I was concentrating on as I wobbled precariously,
hunched on all fours at the open door of the plane!
Becoming an adrenaline junkie, I then tried a bungee jump, set in
the rainforest overlooking the reef. The 45m-high A.J. Hacket
platforms did not seem that high or scary after skydiving. A popular
excursion from Cairns is Cape Tribulation in the Daintree National
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Park. You can go on a jungle trek, and see crocodiles, huge spiders,
bats and lots more besides. There is also good accommodation: the
tranquil Crocodilus, right in the rainforest, or PKs where the
rainforest meets the reef. Daintree is a world heritage sight and the
oldest, continuing rainforest in the world.
Further information
http://www.yha.org.au Australia Youth Hostel information
http://www.travelaus.com.au/farmhost Australian Farmhost Holidays
Pty.Ltd P.O.Box41 Walla Walla, NSW 2659 Australia. Tel:
02-6029-8621 Fax: 02-6029-8770 E-mail: farmhost@albury.net.au
Host Farms and Home stays At Home Down Under, PO Box 98,
Cremore Junction. NSW 2090, Australia.
http://www.wwoof-australia.com.au WWOOFING (Australia-wide
volunteer work on organic farms)
By Chris Gadgie
Fiji
If you want to seek out the conventional idea of paradise, you
could do no worse than head for Fiji. You can reach Fiji on a nine-hour
direct flight from Nagoya for less than US$900. Unlike some South
Pacific Islands, Fiji is well geared towards tourism. Beware of the
swarms of people trying to gain your favour on arrival at the airport
in Nadi. There is an independent tourist information office at the
airport that can suggest agents for particular places, although it helps
to know what you want beforehand.
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Getting around Fiji is easy, as long as you know where you are
going. The minibuses are a convenient way to travel. They wait until
they get a full load and head off at breakneck speed, faster than the
normal buses for the same price. The capital city Suva, with its Fiji
Museum, is an interesting deviation away from the beaches. Fiji has
many day trips, ranging from mountain biking, hiking, four wheels
driving, canoeing, surfing and diving, to simply relaxing on a beach.
Different travel agencies tend to specialise in particular types of trips.
The Fijian village tour offers the opportunity to see some traditional
island life.
As for beaches, there are too many to mention, but the Blue
Lagoon area, on the island of Tavewa in the Yasawas group, is
renowned for the filming of the Brooke Shields movie. Even without
her there, it remains attractive with Fijian “bure” huts on the shore of
beautiful sandy beaches, gorgeous coral, tropical fish and other
marine life, including turtles, mantas and sharks. Accommodation
varies from budget to more luxury huts.
New Zealand
By Nichola Hopkins, Jo McGregor and Kim McFarlane
New Zealand is a microcosm of the world's delights. It is home to
everything from indigenous Maori culture, native plant and bird life, a
host of thrill seeking adventure opportunities to three million very
friendly people and 60 million sheep. It is an easy country to bike or
hitch around; although bear in mind that climatic conditions vary
from sub-tropical to near Antarctic.
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Many people hire cars or motor homes, which are good options,
as public transport does not venture off the beaten track. Another
popular choice is the Kiwi Experience—buses that do a tourist circuit
so you can hop on and off when you please. Auckland is a vibrant city
situated on a narrow isthmus between the Waitemata and Manukau
Harbours. Known as the City of Sails, yachting and other water sports
are incredibly popular. Auckland is a good base for exploring the west
coast black sand surf beaches Piha and Muriwai, the location for The
Piano, the vineyards of North Auckland and the islands of the
Hauraki Gulf. Auckland has some excellent restaurants and cafés.
Try the Bronze Goat on Ponsonby Road for innovative New Zealand
cuisine and the Middle Eastern Café on Wellesley Street for a quick,
cheap and oh-so-good lunch treat.
Both Vulcan Lane in the city centre and the suburb of Ponsonby
are dotted with cafés and have arty atmospheres. Ponsonby is also
famous for the Hero Parade held every year at the end of a weeklong
gay pride celebration. Devonport is Auckland's oldest suburb and it
can be reached by taking a short ferry ride across the harbour. Full of
beautifully maintained wooden villas, calm beaches facing Mt
Rangitoto, seafront restaurants and some of New Zealand’s best
second hand bookstores, Devonport is the place to spend a relaxing
afternoon. If you feel up to it you can trek through the tunnels of
North Head, built during WWII (in case of invasion).
At Cape Reinga on the northernmost point of the North Island,
you can see the meeting of the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea. The
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Bay of Islands, situated on the east coast of the North Island is, as the
name suggests, a bay full of islands! It is a beautiful area and great
place for boat trips. Coromandel and the Bay of Plenty have beaches
galore. Take a boat trip through the world famous glowworm caves at
Waitomo, or if you are feeling more adventurous go black-water
rafting. See traditional Maori dances, partake in a hangi, bathe in hot
springs, and see boiling mud and geysers in Rotorua. Take a trip out
to some of the surrounding emerald lakes with natural hot springs,
but be warned: it smells!
On the shores of Lake Taupo, the largest lake in New Zealand,
there are many boating, fishing, hunting and rafting opportunities.
This area is also just a small step away from Tongariro National Park.
The Park is set amid the volcanic wonderland of Mt. Tongariro, Mt.
Nguaruhoe and Mt Ruapehu. You can go hiking, climbing, skiing, and
crater lake viewing, and there is even bungee jumping nearby. The
capital city, Wellington, has a beautiful harbour surrounded by hills.
There are innovative theatres and thriving café scenes; take the
cable car up to the botanical gardens, wander along Oriental Parade,
and take in the view from Mt. Victoria. Also worth a look is the
relatively new museum of New Zealand, Te Papa. Built on the
waterfront, it offers something for everyone from interactive hands-on
exhibits to virtual reality “rides” (and you said you would never
bungee jump!). No visit is complete without a stop at the earthquake
house (it really shakes), the Maori maraes, and the Golden Years
exhibit that looks at “Kiwi-ana,” those things that make New Zealand
like no other country.
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The South Island is home to many of New Zealand’s adventure
sports, including bungee jumping, rafting and jet boating. There is
also a plethora of hiking tracks and ski fields. Do not forget the
Coast-to-Coast Iron man race or the City to Surf run!! The Cook Strait
Ferry runs between Wellington on the North Island and Picton on the
South Island through the beautiful Marlborough Sounds. You will
find mountains, sea, native bush, pottery and art in the Nelson and
Abel Tasman National Park. The Abel Tasman coastal track is one of
the most popular and easiest hikes in New Zealand. You can
sea-canoe the same area and land on beautiful golden sand beaches.
Similarly, Nelson Lakes National Park and Arthur’s Pass National
Park are both glorious places.
The west coast of the South Island is one of the least populated
places in New Zealand and has one of the highest rates of rainfall in
the world. Here you can see and walk on the Franz Josef and Fox
glaciers surrounded by rain forest. Lake Matheson is definitely worth
a look, too. It is only a small lake, but it gives a perfect reflection of Mt.
Cook (the highest mountain in New Zealand). From Kaikoura you can
go whale watching by boat or by plane. The plane is actually cheaper
as you do not get so close, but there is the added bonus that the pilot
might take you for a spin up into the Kaikoura Ranges.
Situated at the edge of the Canterbury Plains facing the Pacific,
Christchurch is New Zealand’s third biggest city. It is the cultural
centre of the South Island and is known for its magnificently
maintained colonial buildings. A prime example of Christchurch’s
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colonial architecture is the Christchurch Art Centre, at the old
Canterbury University grounds. It now hosts weekend markets, art
and craft shops, art-house cinemas and a whole host of cafés and
restaurants. On the Historic Tram route and across the street from
the Canterbury Museum and the Christchurch Botanical Gardens, the
Art Centre is a perfect place to while away a hot Canterbury day.
Christchurch’s nightlife is centred on Cashel Mall, Oxford Terrace and
Lichfield Street.
Lake Tekapo and Lake Pukaki are indescribably coloured crystal
lakes with wonderful views of The Southern Alps and access to Mt
Cook. Moeraki Boulders, north of Dunedin, are famous for their
perfectly round boulders coming out of the sea. New Zealand's tourist
mecca is Queens land, from where you do the highest bungee jump in
the world, go jet boating, water skiing, wind surfing, skiing,
snowboarding, heli-skiing, rafting or take part in any other
death-defying activity. The Fiordland National Park is the biggest
National Park in New Zealand, hosting a glorious wilderness
containing the Milford Track, perhaps the best known of New
Zealand's trails. There are many more National and Forest Parks
offering great scenery and wonderful hiking. Check at the
Department of Conservation offices around the country for maps and
information.
Further information
http:// www.nz-travel.co.nz
http:// www.backpack.co.n
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338
Appendix
Phone numbers of diplomatic missions in Japan
Algeria
3711-2661
Argentina
5420-7101
Australia
5232-4102
Austria
3451-8281
Bangladesh
5704-0216
Belgium
3262-0191
Belize
3443-0388
Bolivia
3499-5441
Brazil
3404-5211
Brunei
3447-7997
Bulgaria
3465-1021
Cambodia
3264-6420
Canada
3408-2101
Chile
3452-7561
China
3403-3380
Colombia
3440-6451
Costa Rica
3486-1812
Cuba
5570-3182
Czech
Republic
3400-8122
Denmark
3496-3001
Dominican
Republic
3499-6020
Ecuador
3499-2800
Egypt
3770-8021
El Salvador
3499-4461
Ethiopia
3718-1003
Fiji
3587-2038
Finland
3442-2231
France
5420-8800
Gabon
3448-9540
Gambia
3444-7806
Germany
3473-0151
Ghana
5706-3201
Greece
3403-0871
Guatemala
3400-1830
Guinea
3770-4640
Guyana
5706-3201
Haiti
3486-7070
Honduras
3409-1151
Hungary
3798-8801
Iceland
5493-8776
India
3262-2391
Indonesia
3441-4201
Iran
3446-8011
Iraq
3423-1727
Ireland
3263-0695
Israel
3264-0911
Italy
3453-5291
Ivory Coast
5454-1401
Jamaica

339
5721-4114
Jordan
3580-5856
Kazakhstan
3791-5273
Kenya
3723-4006
Korea South
3452-7611
Kuwait
3455-0361
Laos
5411-2291
Lebanon
3580-1227
Libya
3477-0701
Luxembourg
3265-9621
Madagascar
3446-7252
Malaysia
3476-3840
Mexico
3581-1131
Monaco
3211-4994
Mongolia
3469-2088
Morocco
3478-3271
Myanmar
3441-9291
Nepal
3705-5558
Netherlands
5401-0411
New Zealand
3467-2271
Nicaragua
3499-0400
Niger
5721-6371
Nigeria
5721-5391
Norway
3440-2611
Oman
3402-0877
Pakistan
3454-4861
Panama
3499-3741
Papua New
Guinea
3454-7801
Paraguay
5485-3101
Peru
3406-4243
Philippines
3496-2731
Poland
3280-2881
Portugal
3400-7907
Romania
3479-0311
Russia
3583-4224
Rwanda
3486-7800
San Marino
3498-8427
Saudi Arabia
3589-4241
Senegal
3463-8451
Singapore
3586-9111
Slovak
Republic
3400-8122
Solomon
Islands
5275-0515
South Africa
3265-3366
Spain
3583-8582
Sri Lanka
3440-6911
Sudan
3476-0811
Sweden
5562-5050
Switzerland
3473-0121
Syria
3586-8977
Taiwan
3280-7811
Tanzania
3425-4531
Thailand
3441-7352
Tunisia
3353-4111
Turkey
3470-5131
Uganda
3486-7800

Ukraine
3445-9229
United
Kingdom
3265-5511
United States
3224-5000
Uruguay
3486-1888
Venezuela
340
3409-1501
Vietnam
3466-3311
Western
Samoa
3211-7604
Yemen
3499-7151
Zaire
3423-3981
*For a complete listing of addresses for diplomatic missions from
participating JET countries in Japan, check the JET Pages at the
back of the General Information Handbook given to you by CLAIR.
*The JET Pages also include a listing for addresses of Japanese
diplomatic missions in JET countries.