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DIY dressing table - kitchen trends - Home-Dzine

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<strong>Home</strong>-<strong>Dzine</strong><br />

online<br />

IDEAS AND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR HOME<br />

July 2012<br />

DESIGN<br />

DECORATING<br />

<strong>DIY</strong><br />

RECLAIMED RECLAIMED STYLE<br />

STYLE


a word or two 5 KITCHEN<br />

TRENDS FROM<br />

MILAN TRADE<br />

FAIR<br />

It’s so nice to be able to concentrate on the<br />

magazine again, and I enjoyed doing quite<br />

a few projects for this issue, which features<br />

not only <strong>DIY</strong> projects but quite a bit on<br />

design as well.<br />

I know I have asked for your input before<br />

but if you have any ideas or suggestions<br />

for content for the <strong>Home</strong>-<strong>Dzine</strong> Online<br />

magazine, or any specific features you<br />

would like to see in the magazine - or on the<br />

website - please drop us a line at homedzine@iburst.co.za.<br />

Enjoy!<br />

Janice<br />

<strong>Home</strong>-<strong>Dzine</strong> Online is written and compiled by Janice Anderssen.<br />

All projects in this issue, or any other issue, remain the property<br />

of <strong>Home</strong>-<strong>Dzine</strong> and Janice Anderssen, or the respective<br />

copyright holders, and may not be copied or reproduced in any<br />

manner whatsoever without written permission.<br />

13<br />

DESIGN<br />

SECRETS<br />

19 <strong>DIY</strong><br />

DRESSING<br />

TABLE<br />

11<br />

SHUTTERS &<br />

BLINDS


29<br />

35<br />

DESIGN FOR<br />

PROFIT<br />

36<br />

RECLAIMED<br />

STYLE<br />

DESIGN WITHOUT LIMITS<br />

45<br />

TAGINES<br />

24<br />

MAKE AN<br />

ADJUSTABLE<br />

MIRROR<br />

36<br />

DESIGNERS<br />

WITH SAVVY<br />

54<br />

GLITTER<br />

PLAY DOUGH<br />

49<br />

COURTYARD<br />

GARDENS


4<br />

Eurolux delivers ondemand<br />

lighting<br />

Cost and energy savings are major design<br />

considerations for modern lighting systems. An<br />

estimated 29% of a typical office’selectricityusage<br />

is spent on lighting, but occupancy sensors can<br />

reduce this usage by half. The recently released<br />

Eurolux range of lighting motion detectors offers<br />

an effective occupancy sensor solution for most<br />

commercial, industrial and residential buildings.<br />

“Occupancy sensors have become a standard<br />

requirement in modern lighting design,” says Shaun<br />

Bouchier, director at Eurolux. “Besides providing a<br />

means of minimizing energy consumption, it enhances<br />

safety and also reduces light pollution.”<br />

“Wall sensors work well in small rooms, like individual<br />

offices, bathrooms etc., while ceiling sensors are better<br />

suited to large spaces or wherever the lighting load is<br />

higher,” explains Bouchier.<br />

The detection distance of the<br />

Eurolux products range from 12<br />

meters on the CO98 to 2-16 meters<br />

on the CO95.<br />

The new Eurolux range consists<br />

of recessed and surface mounted<br />

models with LUX levels ranging<br />

from 3 – 2000 LUX (adjus<strong>table</strong>).<br />

The Eurolux CO96<br />

[shown bottom left] is<br />

a surface mounted infrared<br />

sensor most suited to use in<br />

offices, boardrooms and residential<br />

homes, with a 380 degree detection range. With such<br />

sensors, motion is detected when an infrared source;<br />

such as a human; passes in front of another infrared<br />

source with a different temperature. The sensors react<br />

to the changes in heat patterns created by the moving<br />

person and turn lights on accordingly. This product is<br />

also available as a recessed unit.<br />

According to Bouchier, the advantages of passive<br />

infrared are that they are highly resistant to false<br />

triggering, relatively inexpensive, and do not radiate<br />

any energy. However, because they operate on a lineof-sight<br />

mechanism, they don’t work well over long<br />

distances (+ 12 meters) or in rooms with obstructions.<br />

Proper placement and orientation of occupancy<br />

sensors is crucial, says Bouchier. “They must be able<br />

to sense all occupants to avoid inadvertently turning<br />

off lights while the space is occupied.” In addition, the<br />

sensor must not be too sensitive as to cause “false<br />

positive” triggering such as the detection of passerby’s<br />

in adjoining hallways.<br />

Lighting motion sensors are most effective in<br />

spaces that are intermittently occupied, meaning it<br />

is unoccupied for two or more hours per day, and<br />

where the lights are typically left on when the space<br />

is unoccupied.<br />

For more information on this range<br />

and the effective use of lighting motion<br />

sensors contact Eurolux on 021 528 8400<br />

or admin@eurolux.co.za


The annual Milan<br />

Trade Fair places<br />

emphasis on HOME.<br />

As the largest furniture show in the<br />

world, the Milan Trade Fair - iSaloni<br />

- draws in excess of 2,000 exhibitors<br />

to show case future design <strong>trends</strong> for<br />

all areas of a home.<br />

It may be the 21st century, but<br />

designers are reinterpreting the<br />

past in design that is modern and<br />

more personal.<br />

decor and design<br />

5


When Marchi designed this <strong>kitchen</strong>, the<br />

picture in my mind was to create the ideal<br />

interior for a young couple who wanted<br />

an interior with good taste, but practical<br />

at the same time. A versatile <strong>kitchen</strong> to<br />

form a comfor<strong>table</strong> background for a range<br />

of activities and a changing life-style: an<br />

environment that would give a warm and<br />

welcoming feel to the whole apartment<br />

which had recently been restored.<br />

They wanted a style that was congenial but<br />

still original, with plenty of room to invite<br />

friends for entertaining, and therefore it had<br />

to be functional, but also stylish enough to<br />

be incorporated into the living room area.<br />

A combination of comfort and elegance,<br />

providing upscale contemporary elements<br />

for a very<br />

practical<br />

modern<br />

<strong>kitchen</strong>,<br />

ideal for<br />

everyday<br />

living and<br />

conceived as the<br />

focal point of the<br />

home.<br />

The attention given to<br />

details such as the old<br />

silver handles and the<br />

total modular flexibility<br />

highlighted by top-quality<br />

electrical appliances<br />

embellish and enhance<br />

the vintage style of this<br />

artisanal <strong>kitchen</strong>.<br />

This is a <strong>DIY</strong> dream <strong>kitchen</strong>, with simple<br />

cabinet design, with painted finish in your<br />

personal choice of colours, precut stone<br />

tops, silver handles and the total modular<br />

flexibility highlighted by top-quality<br />

electrical appliances to embellish and<br />

enhance the vintage style of this artisanal<br />

<strong>kitchen</strong>.<br />

7


8<br />

If the iSaloni Milan Trade Fair is anything to go<br />

by, and it usually is, <strong>kitchen</strong> design is about to<br />

change. Gone are the wrapped and foil doors<br />

and cabinets, the high lacquer glossy finish is<br />

tossed aside and <strong>kitchen</strong>s are morphing into<br />

how the heart of a home should look... warm,<br />

comfor<strong>table</strong> and more natural.<br />

What I love about this new trend is the fact<br />

that it is totally <strong>DIY</strong>-able. Painted finishes are<br />

combined with metallic elements to add a<br />

touch of glam without the expensive price tag.<br />

Your local Metals Centre offer a wide range of<br />

stainless steel, aluminium and tin sheeting in<br />

varying thicknesses that is easy to cut and use.<br />

paint<br />

perfect


warm<br />

wood<br />

If you prefer natural finishes for your <strong>kitchen</strong><br />

- a more rustic look - then you can easily<br />

incorporate wood cabinets and fittings into<br />

this causal and homey style. Using pine,<br />

meranti or saligna is an affordable way to<br />

design and assemble a new <strong>kitchen</strong> and be<br />

sustainable too.<br />

Sealed natural stone is a wonderful finish for<br />

<strong>kitchen</strong> countertops, offering both practicality<br />

and durability, plus it’s an easy <strong>DIY</strong> option.<br />

You will find a wide selection of natural stone<br />

tiles at your local Builders Warehouse.<br />

9


10<br />

A feature wall in energising<br />

red brings some rouge to a<br />

minimalist <strong>kitchen</strong>, and helps<br />

to define the dining area of this<br />

open-plan space, too.<br />

You will need:<br />

Plascon Cashmere Rickshaw Red (R4-B1-1)<br />

Plascon Cashmere Smoke Screen (B6-E2-1)<br />

Plascon Velvaglo White (VLO 1)<br />

Drop sheets<br />

Masking tape<br />

Paintbrush, 10 cm<br />

Paint roller<br />

Sandpaper, 180-grit<br />

Here’s how:<br />

1. Make sure the wall is clean and dry.<br />

If you’re painting over a coloured<br />

wall – especially one with a yellow or<br />

yellow-toned base – first neutralise it<br />

with two coats of a mid-tone grey, such<br />

as Plascon Cashmere Smoke Screen.<br />

This will help prevent show-through so<br />

you will need fewer coats of your chosen<br />

colour.<br />

On the other hand, if your base wall<br />

is white, apply two coats of Plascon<br />

Cashmere White.<br />

<strong>DIY</strong> TIP:<br />

Work on a drop sheet and allow the<br />

paint to dry between coats.<br />

2. Mask off any skirtings, doorframes and<br />

cornices. Using a 10cm paintbrush, paint<br />

two coats of Plascon Cashmere Rickshaw<br />

Red along the borders of the wall,<br />

working in the direction of the line you’re<br />

following. Next, use a roller to paint the<br />

rest of the wall in vertical strokes.<br />

Apply two coats, allowing the first coat to<br />

dry before you apply the second.<br />

<strong>DIY</strong> TIP:<br />

If necessary, when the wall is dry, use<br />

180-grit sandpaper to lightly sand any<br />

wooden skirtings, doorframes and<br />

cornices, mask off the adjacent wall<br />

and paint with Plascon Velvaglo White<br />

using a paintbrush. Allow to dry and<br />

finish with a second coat.


There is nothing more pleasurable than basking in winter sunshine slivering<br />

through a glass window or door on a cold day. These magic moments have<br />

us following the lazy sun with lizard-like devotion and curling our toes in<br />

woolly socks with delight. But as soon as the sun is cloaked, the cold grips<br />

us and we look for ways to replicate that natural warmth.<br />

It is the same windows and doors that invite the<br />

winter sun into our homes that are responsible<br />

for losing our homes’ warmth. Glass windows<br />

and doors lose and gain heat in four ways:<br />

Thermal radiation is the emission of electromagnetic<br />

waves from all matter that has a<br />

temperature greater than zero. It is due to this<br />

process that a clear glass window or door absorbs<br />

the warmth inside your home and then re-radiates<br />

it to the exterior.<br />

Heat conduction is the flow of thermal energy<br />

from a higher temperature to a lower temperature.<br />

A clear glass window or door allows the flow of<br />

thermal energy through the glass to the exterior.<br />

a comfor<strong>table</strong> home -<br />

all year round<br />

There are<br />

many ways<br />

to create a<br />

comfor<strong>table</strong><br />

home, without<br />

switching on.<br />

This month we<br />

take a look at<br />

shutters and<br />

blinds.<br />

Heat convection is the natural process by which<br />

cool air moves downwards and warm air takes<br />

its place. Due to thermal radiation and heat<br />

conduction the air near a clear glass window or<br />

door is cooled and due to convection is moves<br />

towards the floor hereby drawing more warm air<br />

from the room to take its place.<br />

Air leakage is relatively self explainable;<br />

openings due to damaged or poor fitted windows<br />

and doors allow warm air to be lost to the<br />

exterior.<br />

“South Africans love the outdoors and we are<br />

spoilt with so much natural beauty, therefore<br />

we design and build homes with fantastic glass<br />

11


12<br />

windows and doors, often stretching the expanse<br />

of a wall, allowing for maximum views and<br />

natural outdoor – indoor flow,’ says Stephen<br />

Palmer, managing director of American shutters.<br />

“However the same focus placed on the aesthetic<br />

and lifestyle value of these openings should be<br />

placed on the ways in which they are insulated to<br />

ensure comfort and health.”<br />

Once a home is built, we tend to prioritise<br />

decorating styles and standards on how we treat<br />

windows and doors. Traditional window <strong>dressing</strong>s<br />

such as fabric curtains and security measures<br />

such as security gates do not always consider<br />

the massive heat loss that is facilitated by glass<br />

windows and doors.<br />

Most thermal insulation materials are hidden and<br />

not considered in the interior design process<br />

such as ceiling insulation and under floor heating.<br />

Others are not designed with decorating in mind<br />

such as bulky gas heaters and awkward electric<br />

heaters that require mobility to match the indoor<br />

movement of the home’s occupants and they are<br />

an ongoing cost.<br />

It makes perfect design, cost, thermal insulation<br />

and energy efficient sense to address the areas<br />

of a home that are responsible for the most heat<br />

loss, i.e. the windows and doors.<br />

“Shutters and blinds are the design choices of<br />

award winning architects and interior designers<br />

because of a number of factors. They can be<br />

customised to suit and enhance any opening<br />

regardless of how unusual it may be: arched,<br />

triangular or domed. They translate well in all<br />

decorating styles, from classic to contemporary.<br />

They facilitate outdoor-indoor living, allowing for<br />

uninterrupted views, maximum ventilation and<br />

light,” says Karina Palmer of American shutters.<br />

Shutters and blinds add to a home, they also add<br />

value to a property. Due to the very décor specific<br />

nature and transience of fabric window <strong>dressing</strong>s<br />

they are not considered fixtures, as are shutters<br />

and blinds. The investment made in opting for<br />

shutters and blinds is one that is rewarded when<br />

a property is valued and or sold.<br />

In the cooler months, perhaps the most<br />

appreciated value of shutters and blinds is their<br />

thermal insulation and energy efficiency. When<br />

opened shutters and blinds allow us to capture<br />

as much of the winter sunshine during the day<br />

and when closed they work to keep that warmth<br />

locked inside.<br />

So savour and save the winter sunshine with<br />

shutters and blinds – the most stylish prevention<br />

of heat loss due to thermal radiation, heat<br />

conduction and convection.


design<br />

secrets<br />

13


14<br />

I love to browse furniture<br />

catalogues, especially those<br />

of international furniture<br />

manufactures. It gives me ideas<br />

and inspiration for the many<br />

furniture projects that I undertake<br />

and also keeps me on track as to<br />

the latest <strong>trends</strong>.<br />

It’s nice to know that I can purchase<br />

timber and board, take out my power<br />

tools and make my own<br />

unique pieces of furniture.<br />

I am sure many of you reading would<br />

love to be able to make some<br />

of the furniture we see on<br />

the Internet, and you probably<br />

could. Let’s take a look at a few tricks<br />

1. See beyond the design<br />

When viewing a piece of<br />

furniture, most people only see<br />

the outside design, but sometimes it<br />

helps to go behind the facade - to see<br />

what’s underneath and behind, and how<br />

the piece is assembled.<br />

More often than not<br />

these days, furniture<br />

is either painted or<br />

veneer. By looking<br />

under you will be<br />

able to tell what<br />

a piece is made<br />

of and how it has<br />

been put together.<br />

The two most<br />

common board<br />

products used<br />

for furniture<br />

manufacture are<br />

MDF and chipboard. Of the two, MDF<br />

(or PG Bison SupaWood) is the stronger<br />

and more durable and<br />

you can buy this board<br />

product and have it<br />

cut to size at your local<br />

Builders Warehouse.<br />

Prices vary, but the<br />

average price for a<br />

sheet of 2700 x 1800mm<br />

of 16mm SupaWood is<br />

around R600, and that’s<br />

affordable when you<br />

think how big the sheet<br />

is and how much cutting<br />

you can get out of it.


2. Scrutinise the detail<br />

Many pieces of furniture are beautiful to<br />

look at and yet quite simple to replicate.<br />

A good example is the cabinet on the<br />

right.<br />

What makes this cabinet unique is the<br />

feet and door detail, both of which are<br />

fairly easy to duplicate if you have the<br />

right tools. Strip away the detail and you<br />

are left with a basic painted cabinet.<br />

The detail you apply to the pieces<br />

you make are what make the<br />

difference.<br />

I am going to share a few of my own<br />

trade secrets with you on how I would<br />

manufacture this particular piece of<br />

furniture.<br />

2. Feet<br />

The feet on the above cabinet have<br />

a wonderful angled square design.<br />

They are also the easiest feet to make<br />

if you have the right power tools. Just<br />

to show you how easy, I made a leg to<br />

show you.<br />

1. Cabinet<br />

This is a fairly a basic design consisting of two<br />

sides, a bottom and top as the frame. There are<br />

three doors, which means you need to have<br />

upright supports on which to mount hinges.<br />

There is also a larger panel that tops off the<br />

basic frame.<br />

15


16<br />

1. By far the simplest and quickest way to<br />

angle the shape of the feet is to use a<br />

mitre saw. The angle is set at around<br />

7-degrees and all four sides are cut at<br />

this same angle.<br />

3. Finish off the foot with 120-grit sanding<br />

to even out any uneven areas and<br />

then 240-grit for a nice smooth finish.<br />

Use sanding paper to sand the curved<br />

area.<br />

2. Using a Dremel MultiTool and large<br />

sanding disc allows you to create the<br />

curved indent at the top of each foot.<br />

Do the side edges first and then the<br />

inside area.<br />

Here is the finished foot and it looks just<br />

as good as the original. It took me about<br />

half an hour to make, which is not bad at<br />

all.


Creating a detailed design<br />

I used my Dremel Trio and one of the new range of router bits to cut out the design. I<br />

didn’t do the full design - just an example to show you how you can do it yourself.<br />

The new router bits are much better than the older bits, it cuts like a hot knife through<br />

butter and glides across the surface as it cuts. This design was actually very easy to<br />

do. If you don’t own a Dremel Trio, you could also do this with a Dremel MultiTool<br />

and engraving bit, but it would take a lot longer.<br />

17


18<br />

Finishing and painting<br />

After assembling your new piece of furniture you<br />

are going to want to take the time to finish properly.<br />

I know that most people hate sanding, but it’s<br />

important to spend time on this step, especially<br />

if you want your project to look good. It’s also<br />

essential to use quality products for staining, sealing<br />

or painting a project. The last thing you want is<br />

chipped paint, warped wood or a finish that it’s<br />

easy to keep clean.<br />

<strong>Home</strong>-<strong>Dzine</strong> trusts the Rust-Oleum range of spray<br />

products and have used these time and time again<br />

on various indoor and outdoor projects.<br />

<strong>Home</strong>-<strong>Dzine</strong> also endorses Woodoc. While it might be slightly more expensive than<br />

other products the proof, as they say, is in the pudding!<br />

At the end of the day it’s not about paying a little more, it’s about using a quality<br />

product that does what it’s supposed to do.<br />

PAINTING TIPS<br />

If, after painting, you find a few problem<br />

spots that need attention, use 1000grit<br />

wet/dry sandpaper. Have a small<br />

container of water handy; dip the<br />

sandpaper into the water and use a soft,<br />

circular motion to rub away defects.<br />

All SupaWood is absorbent on the cut<br />

ends. If you don’t want to waste time<br />

and spray paint, apply a thin layer<br />

of wood filler to the ends to prevent<br />

absorption. Use 240-grit sandpaper to<br />

smooth once the wood filler is dry.<br />

After spraying on first coat.<br />

Thin layer of wood filler<br />

After spraying on second coat.


To tie in with our latest <strong>Home</strong>-<strong>Dzine</strong><br />

newsletter, we decided to show you<br />

how easy it is to make a <strong>dressing</strong> <strong>table</strong>.<br />

This simple designs has a few elegant<br />

curves and can easily be glammed up<br />

with mirrored mosaic tiles.<br />

DRESSED<br />

TO IMPRESS<br />

quick and easy<br />

19


20<br />

9<br />

1 - 5<br />

7<br />

Use a jigsaw and fretsaw (thin)<br />

blade to cut curves in the front and<br />

back aprons.<br />

Cut small blocks to<br />

use for attaching<br />

the legs to the<br />

front/back<br />

and side<br />

aprons.<br />

6<br />

8


It will only take you 2 hours tops to<br />

assemble our <strong>dressing</strong> <strong>table</strong>, and<br />

then all that’s left to do is to paint<br />

in your choice of finish and colour.<br />

You will need:<br />

1 of 400 x 1200mm - top<br />

2 of 170 x 1080mm - front/back aprons<br />

2 of 170 x 360mm - side aprons<br />

4 of 60 x 800mm - front legs<br />

4 of 40 x 800mm - side legs<br />

10 Plastic corner brackets<br />

Wood glue<br />

Drill/Driver + assorted bits<br />

Jigsaw and fretsaw (thin) blade<br />

25mm cut screws<br />

Wood filler<br />

*For all sections use PG Bison 16mm SupaWood<br />

Here’s how:<br />

Making the legs<br />

1. The legs are slightly angled on one side.<br />

To create the angled edge, measure<br />

down 150mm from the top on all 8 leg<br />

sections and draw a line across.<br />

2. On the bottom end of the 4 front<br />

sections (60mm wide) make a pencil<br />

mark at 40mm. Draw a line from the<br />

150mm mark to the 40mm mark.<br />

3. On the bottom end of the 4 side<br />

sections (40mm wide) make a pencil<br />

mark at 20mm. Draw a line from the<br />

150mm mark to the 40mm mark.<br />

4. Place the front sections on a flat<br />

surface, arranging them as they will be<br />

assembled. EG. The straight edge of<br />

each leg must be on the outside.<br />

5. Run a bead of glue along the top<br />

of the outside edge and place the<br />

straight side section on top. 20mm from<br />

the top and 10mm from the bottom<br />

screw a corner bracket in place.<br />

Making the frame<br />

6. Measure up 20mm from the bottom<br />

edge on both front and back aprons<br />

and draw a line across. Use a template<br />

the draw a curve at both sides - as<br />

shown on the image left. Cut along this<br />

line with a jigsaw.<br />

7. On the front/back aprons measure in<br />

360mm from sides and draw a line. On<br />

the middle section, measure up 20mm<br />

from the bottom edge and draw a line.<br />

Use this line to cut the middle design.<br />

8. On the side aprons measure up 20mm<br />

from the bottom edge and draw a line<br />

across. Use a template the draw a curve<br />

at both sides - as shown on the image<br />

left. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.<br />

21


22<br />

<strong>DIY</strong> Tip:<br />

Use a circular object to help you<br />

to draw the curved shape at either<br />

side of the indent.<br />

9. Attach the legs to the front and side<br />

aprons with wood glue and small<br />

blocks screwed into place with 25mm<br />

wood screws.<br />

10. Attach the top to the frame by<br />

placing corner brackets on the<br />

underside of the top and front/back<br />

and sides. Use 2 brackets on the<br />

front/back apron and a centrally<br />

placed bracket on the sides.<br />

Finishing<br />

Pay particular attention to polishing all<br />

cut edges so that paint is not absorbed<br />

too quickly.<br />

Apply wood filler to gaps for a smooth,<br />

seamless finish. Once dry, sand with 240grit<br />

sandpaper.


Painting<br />

Here’s a good tip for any painting<br />

project. If you paint with a base coat<br />

prior to spraying you use far less paint.<br />

I use leftover paint in white or cream<br />

and apply with a foam roller. Once dry,<br />

the finish is sanded with 360/400-grit<br />

sandpaper.<br />

Do all your spray painting outdoors to<br />

avoid being overwhelmed by fumes.<br />

Don’t spray paint on a windy day or<br />

you will be spraying forever!<br />

For the <strong>dressing</strong> <strong>table</strong> I would<br />

recommend that you use Rust-Oleum<br />

gloss enamel, only because it provides a<br />

tough, durable finish, which is what you<br />

need on a <strong>dressing</strong> <strong>table</strong> where you use<br />

a hair dryer, curling tongues, etc.<br />

Find the complete<br />

Rust-Oleum range<br />

at your local Builders<br />

Warehouse.<br />

23


24<br />

Dress it up<br />

FRAMED MIRROR<br />

Now that you have a <strong>dressing</strong><br />

<strong>table</strong>, you may also need a<br />

framed mirror. For this project I<br />

used tongue and groove (again),<br />

because it fits nicely around the<br />

mirror and I don’t have to fiddle<br />

around the cut the groove.<br />

Most tongue and groove planks<br />

have a 5mm deep groove, but<br />

it’s always better to double check<br />

before cutting the frame.<br />

You will need:<br />

2 of 1200mm lengths of tongue & groove<br />

Mirror cut to 600 x 800mm<br />

Corner braces* and 12mm screws<br />

2 of 8mm dowels<br />

2 of 8mm cable clips<br />

Wood glue<br />

Wood filler<br />

TOOLS<br />

Drill/Driver plus assorted bits<br />

Jigsaw and clean cut blade for wood<br />

Hammer<br />

Wood or rubber mallet<br />

Mitre box and saw or mitre saw<br />

*Builders Warehouse didn’t have stock so<br />

I substituted with T-braces.


Here’s how:<br />

1. When cutting the frame, measure the<br />

width and height of the mirror and then<br />

deduct the groove width from either side.<br />

EG. 600mm - 10mm (5mm groove on both<br />

sides). Do the same for the width and<br />

height.<br />

<strong>DIY</strong> Tip:<br />

Do a test fitting to make sure all the corners fit<br />

nicely together or make any adjustments.<br />

GOOD TO KNOW<br />

Use a wood or rubber mallet to tap the<br />

tongue & groove panel onto the glass.<br />

Starting at one end, a few light taps will do.<br />

2. Once the frame fits nicely around, turn<br />

over and mount the corner or T-braces<br />

onto the back with 12mm screws.<br />

3. Use a mixture and wood glue and wood<br />

filler to fill in any gaps. I prefer to mix the<br />

two together to prevent cracking later on.<br />

25


26<br />

4. Using the framed mirror as a guide, cut<br />

two side sections. These sections should<br />

be as high as the mirror. To secure the<br />

sides you will also need two sections to<br />

attach to the front of the side panels, and<br />

a long section for the back. This will ensure<br />

that your framed mirror stands secure.<br />

<strong>DIY</strong> Tip:<br />

The long back section must be as wide<br />

as the mirror, plus a 5mm allowance on<br />

both sides, plus the width of the base of<br />

each side section.<br />

5. Glue all the frame sections together and<br />

allow the glue to dry before sanding the<br />

edges with 360/400-grit sandpaper to<br />

polish. I also like to apply a very thin layer<br />

of wood filler to all the cut edges. It works<br />

as a block and prevents these edges from<br />

absorbing too much paint.<br />

6. Apply 2 coats of Rust-Oleum Gloss Enamel<br />

in your choice of colour, allowing drying<br />

time between coats.<br />

7. Before attaching mirror,<br />

drill one side of frame for<br />

adjustment holes. Use a<br />

wood drill bit that matches<br />

diameter of your shelf pin.<br />

8. Measure and mark at<br />

both centre of mirror and<br />

side section. At this point,<br />

hammer a cable grip<br />

on both sides of mirror<br />

frame and drill holes on<br />

mirror frame to half the<br />

depth of the dowel. Have<br />

someone help you to hold<br />

frame secure while you<br />

mount mirror in position.<br />

To do this push a dowel<br />

through cable grip and<br />

into drilled hole on both<br />

sides.


ack<br />

To set the right adjustment, insert a shelf pin in the correct hole on the frame.<br />

I made the adjus<strong>table</strong> mirror this way because it’s a battle to try and find adjus<strong>table</strong><br />

fittings, and this way is cheap and easy!<br />

front<br />

27


28<br />

Easy <strong>DIY</strong> magazine<br />

subscribers will see this<br />

project in a future issue,<br />

with additional features.<br />

The centre section will<br />

have a drawer and<br />

the dresser will be<br />

embellished in an easy<br />

way. Keep an eye out for<br />

this issue.


design<br />

without limits<br />

29


30<br />

The Internet offers<br />

unlimited opportunity<br />

for anyone with a small<br />

dose of creativity.<br />

Only last week I was on the radio<br />

chatting about the importance<br />

of recycling, and how you can<br />

so easily repurpose items rather<br />

than toss them out. From this we<br />

got around to talking about the<br />

endless opportunities opening<br />

up for anyone with crafty or <strong>DIY</strong><br />

talents. You only have to take a<br />

look at some of the online craft<br />

sites to see how many are making<br />

a profit, and a huge profit in some<br />

cases, simply by repurposing waste.<br />

While this project doesn’t use waste, it is<br />

a good example of how you can use off<br />

cuts to design and create saleable items.<br />

These bamboo veneer clocks are<br />

designed by DecoyLabs on Etsy and<br />

are for sale at R600 upwards. Definitely<br />

unique but not sure I would pay that<br />

much for a clock.<br />

Additionally, these clocks are made<br />

using a laser cutter, or CNC machine,<br />

and I want to try and make using my<br />

jigsaw. If you have a scroll saw - even<br />

better.<br />

The point behind all this? To show you<br />

that all it takes it creativity to design and<br />

manufacture items that could establish a<br />

home-based business.<br />

The Suitcase<br />

Chair is a<br />

prime<br />

example of how a little<br />

imagination can reap rewarding<br />

benefits.<br />

Local designer, Katie Thompson, has<br />

taken old suitcases and transformed them<br />

into beautiful collector pieces. Selling<br />

from around R4000.00 upwards, these<br />

little travel cases are certainly seeing the<br />

world in style! www.recreate.za.net


Here’s how:<br />

As a first attempt I am not going to add<br />

as much detail as the original design by<br />

DecoyLab.<br />

1. The first step is to draw out my design<br />

and transfer this onto 6mm PG Bison<br />

SupaWood. One of these days I will get<br />

my hands on some carbon paper, but<br />

in the meantime the easiest way is to<br />

rub the back of your printed copy with<br />

pencil and then turn over and press<br />

hard as you draw over the design to<br />

print onto the board.<br />

2. The transferred design will probably be<br />

feint, but you can easily go over again<br />

with a pencil so it’s easier to see.<br />

3. After clamping the board to my<br />

workbench I used a fretsaw blade to<br />

cut out. I call it a fretsaw blade but it’s<br />

actually a thinner blade for a jigsaw.<br />

This blade is ideal for detailed cutting.<br />

Working from the outside in, I rough<br />

cut away sections to make it easier<br />

to make the detailed cuts around the<br />

drawn design.<br />

31


32<br />

As you can see from the cut out on<br />

the left, the jigsaw did a very nice job<br />

indeed. It was tricky, but only took about<br />

15 minutes to do. You have to be very<br />

careful when moving and cutting the<br />

design, as some areas are very thin.<br />

5. I sanded the rough edges with 120-grit<br />

sandpaper and then smoothed with<br />

240-grit sandpaper.<br />

6. There is a front and back design for the<br />

clock, and after cutting and sanding<br />

these need to be painted. I used Rust-<br />

Oleum 2X in blossom white to spray<br />

the front, edges and back of both<br />

sections.<br />

<strong>DIY</strong> TIPS:<br />

• Place the sections on a block of wood<br />

to lift them off the surface, as this allows<br />

you to spray the edges at the same<br />

time.<br />

• Wait for each coat to dry completely<br />

before spraying on the next coat.<br />

• Don’t hold the can closer than 30 cm<br />

from the surface, as any closer and you<br />

will end up with excess paint and runs.<br />

• The edges need quite a few coats<br />

due to the fact that supawood is very<br />

absorbent, hold the can at an angle<br />

when spraying the edges to prevent<br />

spraying too much paint on the top<br />

surface.


7. To mount the clock mechanism,<br />

drill a hole through the front of the<br />

front section. Place a block of wood<br />

behind to prevent the wood chipping<br />

as you drill through. The hole you drill<br />

should be the same diameter as your<br />

clock shaft.<br />

8. Place the shaft through the drilled<br />

hole and use the fastenings that<br />

come with the clock movement to<br />

attach.<br />

9. Since this is a battery-operated clock,<br />

you are going to need to allow for<br />

the back section to be remove for<br />

replacing the battery. Attach velcro<br />

to the back of the battery and front<br />

of the back section, so that this holds<br />

them together firmly but still allows for<br />

pulling apart easily.<br />

On the next page you will see how my<br />

final clock looks.<br />

Although I’m happy with the final result,<br />

I did make a second clock, and this<br />

one came out far better. Obviously the<br />

more you make the better you become!<br />

So many families are struggling<br />

to make ends meet each month<br />

and projects like this are just one<br />

of the ways that you can put<br />

your creative talents to good use.<br />

Who knows... you may design<br />

something that becomes a<br />

collector’s piece or that everyone<br />

loves, but you won’t know until<br />

you try.<br />

33


Uttermost Harrington<br />

Price: $261.80 | R2000.00<br />

Features an antiqued ivory<br />

face with gentle distressing<br />

around the outer rim.<br />

Missing Time Clock by<br />

Cyber Moon<br />

Price: $17.00 | R140.00<br />

I love it when designers<br />

play with our assumed<br />

knowledge and imagination.<br />

This twist on convention<br />

modernizes the classic<br />

clock face design.<br />

design<br />

for profit<br />

I come across hundreds<br />

of designs for home decor<br />

accessories when researching<br />

for projects. Some of these<br />

items cost so little to make and<br />

yet are being sold at exorbitant<br />

prices. Here are just a few<br />

clock designs...<br />

Diamantini & Domeniconi Half Time Clock<br />

Price: $376.00 | R3000.00<br />

An unexpected evolution of the traditional cuckoo<br />

clock. The classic shape is cut in half, and the bird<br />

comes out of the side. Wood frame is lacquered in the<br />

following finishes: black, white, green and red.<br />

35


36<br />

designers<br />

with savvy<br />

Practical. Durable. And the picture of authentic African style. The PPC Cement Laptop<br />

Bag puts a brand that is uniquely South African over your shoulder every time you walk<br />

out the door.<br />

So how do we make them?<br />

An unused Pretoria Portland Cement paper bag is the beginning of each piece.<br />

Production takes a while, but it’s worth it. We separate the layers, remove the top and third<br />

layer of the bag and fuse them together. Bonding them with black cotton means that<br />

durability is never compromised. From there, you can treat it like any other fabric. We draw<br />

the pattern, cut it and stitch the bag together. The strap of the bag is cotton webbing<br />

and is completely adjus<strong>table</strong>.<br />

The PPC Cement Laptop Bag is as practical as you can get, too. There are two sections<br />

and two pockets: carry your laptop cables in one pocket and an iPhone or mouse in the<br />

other. A padded divider separates your laptop from any other papers or notes, and the<br />

entire inside of the bag is also padded to protect everything that you carry inside it. The<br />

bag closes with two magnets discreetly hidden on the flap.<br />

We treat the bag with Scotch Guard so you don’t have to worry about exposing it to the<br />

elements.


The story about how the PPC Cement Laptop<br />

Bag came to be is rather straight forward...<br />

Wendren Setzer was at a shoe factory<br />

ordering shoes (pumps to be specific)<br />

one random day and they were<br />

showing how they made them. Part<br />

of the procedure is to fuse the desired<br />

outer fabric to a cotton to make the<br />

fabric stronger and more sui<strong>table</strong> for<br />

the purpose. Curious as to what else this<br />

technical fabric would be used for she<br />

asked for a sample<br />

Wendren fused it to all sorts of materials,<br />

paper being one of them. Then some<br />

time later was driving along the highway<br />

behind a cement truck and noticed<br />

the packaging, more specifically, the<br />

very graphic elephant logo of Pretoria<br />

Portland Cement. She thought this<br />

would be fantastic to make a bag out<br />

of so got hold of some PPC packaging<br />

and experimented. It really was an<br />

opportunity, experiment and idea that all<br />

came together.<br />

Once she had a prototype she<br />

contacted PPC for their permission to use<br />

their packaging and the rest is history.<br />

“Inspiration is all around<br />

you, you’ve just keep your<br />

eyes and mind open to<br />

possibilities”<br />

http://thewrendesign.com<br />

Reuse - Recycle - Repurpose<br />

37


38<br />

Repurpose empty coffee tins into welcoming candleholders for an entrance or<br />

mantel. All you need is a can of spray adhesive, printed out stencil, a drill/driver<br />

and 3mm HSS bit.


You have to like<br />

furniture<br />

that can be made<br />

from scraps of<br />

wood and still sell<br />

out.<br />

It’s not quite my<br />

style but there is<br />

definitely a place<br />

in the home for<br />

furniture made<br />

from reclaimed<br />

timber, whether<br />

it’s in the den, or<br />

outside on a patio.<br />

We are a generation of waste. We<br />

continuously empty our dustbins and fill<br />

them up again, just to pile more trash on<br />

our dumps.<br />

So much is going to waste and timber is<br />

a valuable commodity, especially if it’s a<br />

hardwood such as saligna, oak, oregon<br />

pine, teak, etc. If you think how many<br />

years it takes a tree to reach maturity,<br />

before we come along and chop it<br />

down to make a piece of furniture, only<br />

to tire of it and throw it out - that’s waste.<br />

Furniture that is made from reclaimed<br />

timber doesn’t have to be rustic in style.<br />

This console <strong>table</strong> [right] features legs<br />

made from reclaimed oak barrel staves<br />

[ via www.vinwood.co.za ]<br />

RECLAIMED TIMBER<br />

rustic furniture<br />

39


40<br />

When you make or<br />

purchase furniture<br />

using reclaimed timber<br />

you not only enjoy its<br />

beauty and uniqueness,<br />

but you also help the<br />

environment.<br />

Sustainable furniture<br />

is not a new idea.<br />

Many countries have<br />

refinished, re-used, and<br />

created furniture from<br />

weathered wood for<br />

centuries.<br />

Reclaimed timber has a<br />

unique coloration and<br />

a natural patina. The<br />

timber usually has widely varying knot<br />

patterns, grain designs, and beautiful<br />

colours, ranging from rich greys to hints of<br />

orange and deep rust depending upon<br />

the timber species used.<br />

Not too long ago I featured a couple of<br />

projects on <strong>Home</strong>-<strong>Dzine</strong> using reclaimed<br />

silver birch branches that had been<br />

trimmed. My projects pale in comparison<br />

to this gorgeous range of rustic furniture<br />

that uses the same materials.<br />

Birch bark furniture traces its roots<br />

to the Adirondack mountains in the<br />

US. Many wealthy early Americans<br />

had “great camps” located in the<br />

pristine Adirondacks.<br />

Local artisans built rustic furniture<br />

with birch bark panels with twigs<br />

and other natural materials.<br />

Example of birch bark furniture can<br />

be found in both museums and<br />

antique shops throughout the US.<br />

ABOVE and BELOW: Silver Birch<br />

furniture from Woodland Creek (USA)


While you can’t walk into a timber<br />

merchant and ask for relcaimed<br />

timber, you can keep an eye on the<br />

classifieds, visit salvage yards and be<br />

on the lookout for pieces that are being<br />

thrown out, perhaps by family or friends.<br />

Even a visit to secondhand shops<br />

might surprise you and you could walk<br />

out with a bargain piece made from<br />

exotic hardwoods that can be reused<br />

and repurposed in a more practical<br />

way, such as making reclaimed timber<br />

furniture for your home - indoor or<br />

outdoor.<br />

41


42<br />

FINISHING RECLAIMED<br />

TIMBER FURNITURE<br />

Finishing and maintaining your new piece<br />

of reclaimed furniture is as easy as ‘5’, or<br />

Woodoc 5.<br />

You want to keep the unique look of<br />

reclaimed timber but enhance the beauty,<br />

and Woodoc 5 is an absolute matt sealer that<br />

will do just that.<br />

How to apply:<br />

1. After you have finished sanding your<br />

piece, be sure to wipe it down with a cloth<br />

lightly dampened with mineral turpentine<br />

to remove all traces of dust, especially in<br />

cupboards, drawers and corners.<br />

2. As this is reclaimed timber, the first coat<br />

will be absorbed very quickly into the<br />

moisture-starved timber. Re-apply the first<br />

coat until the wood no longer absorbs the<br />

sealer and the surface remains wet for 10<br />

minutes.<br />

Woodoc 5 in an interior wood sealer<br />

that is lead- and formaldehyde-free.<br />

3. Once the first coat has dried, wipe down<br />

the surface with Woodoc Steelwool. This is<br />

necessary to ensure maximum penetration<br />

for the second coat of sealer.<br />

4. Allow the second coat to dry completely<br />

before applying a third and final coat.<br />

Note: Woodoc 5 should be stirred until<br />

it becomes milky in appearance. Do not<br />

shake the can, as this causes bubbles<br />

that affect penetration.


44<br />

INAUGURAL ‘TASTE OF DURBAN’ FOOD FEST COMES TO TOWN<br />

Pick n Pay Taste of Durban in association with Orbit sugar-free chewing gum, taking place at Suncoast from<br />

Friday 27 – Sunday 29 July 2012, is destined to be the culinary event of the year.<br />

Over three days, this unique international restaurant festival will bring together the city’s most acclaimed<br />

restaurants, prestigious chefs and carefully selected premium exhibitors to attract Durban’s most dedicated<br />

and sophisticated foodies in an outdoor fine dining celebration. Taking part in the inaugural show are Café<br />

1999, Hartford House, 9th Avenue Bistro, Havana Grill, Little Havana, Jewel of India, Simply Asia, Versailles<br />

and Max’s Lifestyle Tavern. Added to the extraordinary line up of chefs you’ll also have the opportunity to sip<br />

and sample an array of the very best of wine, beer, cocktails and delicious foodie produce Durban has to offer<br />

whilst you shop your way around the festival. If you love eating out this is an opportunity too good to miss.<br />

Sit back and relax at the Pick n Pay Fresh Living Chef’s Theatre where top chefs will showcase their culinary<br />

skills in fun and informative cooking demonstrations, culinary challenges, entertaining tutorials. Or try your<br />

hand at making canapés at the hands on Pick n Pay Wine and Canapé Experience.<br />

www.tasteofdurban.co.za or www.itickets.co.za


food fun<br />

45


46<br />

LAMB TAGINE AND COUSCOUS<br />

Ingredients – serves 6<br />

1/4 cup flour<br />

1 tsp cayenne pepper<br />

2 tsp ground black pepper<br />

2 Tbsp paprika<br />

2 Tbsp ground ginger<br />

2 Tbsp turmeric<br />

2 tsp ground cinnamon<br />

Shoulder of lamb, trimmed and cut into 5cm<br />

chunks (approximately 1.1kg meat)<br />

5 Tbsp olive oil<br />

2 large onions, chopped<br />

2 large carrots, chopped<br />

2 sticks celery, chopped<br />

3 cloves garlic, crushed<br />

2 x 400g tinned chopped tomatoes<br />

200g dried apricots, cut in half<br />

55g dates, cut in half<br />

55g sultanas or raisins<br />

500ml lamb or beef stock<br />

2 Tbsp clear honey<br />

85g flaked almonds, toasted<br />

Coriander and couscous, to serve<br />

Keen to make lamb so tender it melts<br />

off the bone and into your heart? The<br />

tagine is the matriarch of the slowcooker<br />

family and with its distinct<br />

shape, ensures that your meat is<br />

packed with flavour and mouthwateringly<br />

tender.<br />

The sloped, cool walls<br />

of a tagine create<br />

the perfect surface<br />

for converting rising<br />

steam into condensation<br />

which returns to the bottom<br />

of the dish keeping meat moist.<br />

1. Preheat oven to 180 °C.<br />

2. Place flour, seasoning and spices into a<br />

small bowl and mix. Place lamb in a large<br />

bowl and toss together with the spice mix.<br />

3. Heat 2 Tbsp olive oil in tagine base on<br />

stove top. Add carrots, onions and celery<br />

and cook over a gentle heat for 10 minutes<br />

until onions are soft but not coloured. Add<br />

crushed garlic for the final 3 minutes.<br />

4. In a separate frying pan, heat remaining<br />

oil and brown cubes of lamb on all sides,<br />

then add browned meat to tagine. De-glaze<br />

frying pan with tomatoes and add these<br />

juices to the tagine too.<br />

5. Add apricots, dates, sultanas, lamb stock<br />

and honey to tagine.<br />

6. Bring to boil, cover with lid and place in<br />

oven to cook for 2-2.5 hours or until meat<br />

is meltingly tender.<br />

7. Sprinkle on coriander and flaked almonds<br />

and serve with couscous.


A tajine, or tagine is a Berber dish from North Africa, that is named after the<br />

special earthenware pot in which it is cooked. The traditional tagine pot is<br />

formed entirely of a heavy clay, which is sometimes painted or glazed. It<br />

consists of two parts: a base unit that is flat and circular with low sides, and<br />

a large cone or dome-shaped cover that sits on the base during cooking.<br />

The cover is so designed to promote the return of all condensation to<br />

the bottom. With the cover removed, the base can be taken to<br />

the <strong>table</strong> for serving.<br />

Tagines in Moroccan cuisine are slow-cooked stews<br />

braised at low temperatures, resulting in tender meat with<br />

aromatic vege<strong>table</strong>s and sauce. They are traditionally<br />

cooked in the tagine pot, the conical cover which has<br />

a knob-like handle at its top to facilitate removal. While<br />

simmering, the cover can be lifted off without the<br />

aid of a mitten, enabling the cook to inspect the<br />

main ingredients, add vege<strong>table</strong>s, mix the contents,<br />

or add additional braising liquid.<br />

Most tagines involve slow simmering of lessexpensive<br />

meats. For example, the ideal cuts of lamb are<br />

the neck, shoulder or shank cooked until it is falling off the bone.<br />

wikipedia<br />

Make Simmering traditional North African dishes<br />

with meat, poultry, vege<strong>table</strong>s and fish<br />

The combination of meats (lamb, beef,<br />

chicken), sweet vege<strong>table</strong>s (carrots,<br />

tomatoes, aubergines) and fruits (lemon,<br />

dates, oranges) is very typical of North African cookery<br />

and provides a natural sweetness to many dishes. The<br />

sweetness is offset by the use of plenty of spices and<br />

cayenne pepper.<br />

47


48<br />

New Vitrex Tiling Tool range<br />

Completing tiling installations has just become a whole lot<br />

easier with the new Vitrex Tiling Tool range, exclusively<br />

available from Builders Warehouse and Builders Express.<br />

The Vitrex range has everything you need to get that tiling<br />

job done. It has tools for cutting, shaping, fixing and finishing<br />

and ensures a hassle-free tiling installation and professional<br />

workmanship. Plus, Vitrex Tiling Tools are easy to use and<br />

with ergonomically designed grips, you’ll have a comfor<strong>table</strong><br />

hold when using these nifty tools.<br />

For the first time in South Africa, Vitrex is introducing the<br />

Lash Spacer, an easy to use self-levelling spacer that always<br />

stays level so that you can lay tiles evenly.<br />

The high-absorbing grouting sponge with rounded edges<br />

cleans grout perfectly without leaving streaks and uneven<br />

lines. It also assists with not wetting the grout excessively<br />

when cleaning off the surplus grout.<br />

The range also features a handy profile gauge to help you to<br />

cut a tile in a shape that is not easy to measure, such as the<br />

semicircle at the foot of the toilet. The profile gauge assists<br />

you to cut the tile in the exact size you need it to ensure your<br />

tiling job looks perfect.<br />

Vitrex Tiling Tools are distributed by TAL, the tiling<br />

professionals.<br />

vitrex giveaway<br />

We’ve got 5 Vitrex Tiling Starter Kits up<br />

for grabs!<br />

Send us an email and tell us where<br />

you can buy the new Vitrex Tiling Tool<br />

range.<br />

Mail to: home-dzine@iburst.co.za and<br />

remember to include your full name,<br />

daytime contact number and address.


We have passed the<br />

half-way mark for<br />

winter, which means<br />

that spring is only<br />

a couple of months<br />

away. South Africans<br />

are a lucky lot indeed<br />

when it comes to<br />

beautiful weather<br />

and spending time<br />

outdoors.<br />

But spending time<br />

outdoors is sometimes<br />

limited to a small, pocketsized<br />

courtyard that<br />

lacks appeal and is the<br />

last place you feel like<br />

spending time.<br />

In this feature we’re going<br />

to show you a few ways<br />

to transform that small,<br />

unattractive space into<br />

a wonderful oasis where<br />

you want to spend a few<br />

hours soaking up the<br />

fresh air and sunshine.<br />

image: pininterest<br />

gardening delights<br />

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image: pininterest<br />

image: www.home-landscape-plan.com<br />

What’s underfoot<br />

in your courtyard<br />

makes a big<br />

difference.<br />

If the area hasn’t already<br />

been paved or concrete<br />

poured, it’s easy to install<br />

your own informal paving,<br />

and it can make a big<br />

difference to the overall<br />

appearance of the space.<br />

Stone, cement or bricks<br />

cobbles are laid on a level<br />

surface and can also be<br />

laid over concrete that is<br />

still in good condition.<br />

If you can to put down paving bricks or cobbles, remove any grasses and rake until level.<br />

Raking also brings stones to the surface and these need to be removed as well. Put down a 2 to<br />

3mm thick layer of sharp river sand and level this with a straightedge, or long, straight plank of<br />

wood. Now you are ready to start laying the pavers. You will find plenty of instructions on the<br />

website for similar projects.


Add an interesting<br />

feature<br />

When you start designing<br />

your new courtyard,<br />

be sure to include an<br />

interesting feature. It might<br />

be nice to incorporate a<br />

small water feature that not<br />

only looks good, but also<br />

helps to mask any traffic<br />

noise if the courtyard is<br />

close to a road.<br />

If space allows, lush<br />

planting also blocks out<br />

surrounding sound to<br />

create a tranquil haven for<br />

relaxation.<br />

image: www.herbgardendesign.co.uk<br />

image: www.herbgardendesign.co.uk<br />

Plants and hardscape combined<br />

provide interest and texture.<br />

In a small courtyard you can<br />

incorporate a few small beds<br />

and plant these with contrasting<br />

colours and foliage.<br />

Creating privacy is important if you reside in a townhouse complex where units overlook your<br />

garden. A screen of small trees will not only block off nosey neighbours, they will also create a<br />

more lush environment and serve to block off sound.<br />

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image: www.mylandscapes.co.uk


Bright garden designer, Amir Schlezinger, designs and build gardens throughout<br />

London. His main plan is to create beautiful yet highly liveable, social spaces,<br />

which isn’t easy when living in the centre of a large, metropolitan city. We could<br />

take more than a few tips from some of his projects.<br />

Designing or landscaping a courtyard garden<br />

will basically follow the same design rules as<br />

a small garden, with more emphasis placed on<br />

vertical space.<br />

Most courtyards are small and feel cramped<br />

and by adding height around the perimeter, it<br />

creates the illusion of a lofty space that feels<br />

larger than it actually is., making the eye go<br />

upwards.<br />

Keep it green. If your courtyard needs a touch<br />

of green, think about adding artificial turf.<br />

Believe it or not this product is considered<br />

reasonably green; no watering, no fertilising,<br />

no cutting - all of which make artificial turf an<br />

eco choice for small gardens.<br />

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1. Add food colouring to water for<br />

easiest, even distribution. This is<br />

especially helpful if you’re using a<br />

gel or paste food colouring.<br />

2. Place flour, salt, coloured water,<br />

oil, and cream of tartar in a large<br />

saucepan. Cook over medium<br />

high heat, stirring constantly, until it<br />

turns into play dough.<br />

Be creative,<br />

use your<br />

imagination,<br />

have fun!<br />

<strong>Home</strong>made Sparkling<br />

Play Dough Recipe<br />

Summer is still a couple of<br />

months away and when the<br />

days are too cold the play<br />

outside, here’s a fun project<br />

from Celebrations.com to<br />

keep the kids occupied inside!<br />

You will need:<br />

2 cups all-purpose flour<br />

1 cup salt<br />

2 cups water<br />

1 Tablespoon oil<br />

1 teaspoon cream of tartar<br />

food colouring<br />

glitter<br />

3. Turn dough out onto the counter<br />

to let sit until it’s cool enough<br />

to knead. Flatten a bit on the<br />

counter, and sprinkle generously<br />

with glitter. Knead the glitter into<br />

the play dough. If you want more<br />

sparkle, repeat this step.<br />

4. Store in an airtight container. One<br />

batch of this recipe filled four jamjars<br />

perfectly.


If you are planning a<br />

child’s birthday party,<br />

this is a fun way to keep<br />

guests occupied, and<br />

you can make up small<br />

jars of sparkling play<br />

dough to give everyone<br />

as party favours.<br />

Tradewind Tiaras made<br />

up a batch of glittery play<br />

dough for a Star Warsthemed<br />

party.<br />

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IF YOU ARE TACKLING ANY TYPE OF<br />

DECORATING, HOME IMPROVEMENT<br />

OR <strong>DIY</strong> PROJECT - WE WANT TO<br />

KNOW! IN FACT, WE WANT TO<br />

SHARE YOUR PROJECT AND ENTER<br />

YOU INTO THE QUARTERLY DRAW<br />

FOR BOSCH, SKILL AND DREMEL<br />

TOOL HAMPERS.<br />

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS USE YOUR BOSCH, SKIL OR DREMEL TOOLS TO MAKE, REPAIR<br />

OR INSTALL AND SEND US A FEW ‘BEFORE’ AND ‘AFTER’ PICS. THEN TELL US HOW YOU<br />

TACKLED THE PROJECT.<br />

SEND IMAGES AND DETAILS TO: home-dzine@iburst.co.za<br />

IMAGE SOURCE: INMAGINE.COM


TAKE A LOOK AT OUR SCHEDULE FOR 2012<br />

More great projects for you to make and take home<br />

Beginners & Advanced Workshops<br />

Basic Electrical and Plumbing Workshops<br />

Soul Sisters for our Cape Town <strong>DIY</strong> Divas<br />

Basic Welding<br />

Career Workshops<br />

Every Saturday morning from 09:00 to 12:00<br />

at a venue near you.<br />

www.<strong>DIY</strong>-DIVAS.co.za<br />

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