Atlantica No. 4, 2010, July-August - Iceland Review

No.4. 2010 July - AugustYour Free CopyYour Free CopYWELCOME TO ICELANDPuffin Land • Cold Swim • Child’s PlayWild Walks • Summer Events

My favorite place.About as far as you can get awayfrom baristas and mobile hot spots.HÚSAVÍKtel: 464 7272www.northsailing.isReykjavík Capital Area: Bankastræti 5, Faxafen 12,Kringlan, Smáralind and Miðhraun 11 Akureyri: GlerártorgKeflavík: Airport and retailers across Icelandwww.66north.com Keeping Iceland warm since 1926Jökulsárlón lagoonCruising amongthe icebergsJökulsárlón’s boat company offers30-40 min. cruises around thisspectacular lake all summer fromMay to September. Allows you toget right up close to the icebergs.information +354 478 2222 orwww.jokulsarlon.is

on the flyPhoto BY PÁLL STEFÁNSSONThe Long,Long WayHomeCheetah, killer whale, Arctic Tern. The latter may sound an unlikelycontender for nature’s greatest athlete, yet the small but elegantseabird migrates more than 70,000 kilometers every year—thelongest trek of any creature—to get back home to breed in Iceland.The Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea) flies from its Arctic breedinggrounds to the Antarctic and back again each year. This 19,000 km(12,000 mile) journey each way (measured point to point) ensuresthat the bird sees two summers per year and more daylight thanany other creature on the planet. Scientists used tracking devicesattached to the birds to find out that the above examples are notunusual for the species. Eleven Arctic Tern that bred in Greenlandor Iceland each covered 70,900 km on average in a year, with amaximum of 81,600 km. The difference from previous estimates wasbecause the birds were found to take a meandering course to takeadvantage of prevailing winds.The average Arctic Tern lives 34 years, and will travel about 2.4million kilometers (1.5 million miles) in its lifetime. The Arctic Ternis a medium-sized bird around 33–36 cm (13–15 in) long, witha wingspan of 75–80 cm, and weighing 86–127 g (3.0–4.5 oz).Breeding begins around the third or fourth year. Arctic Terns matefor life and, in most cases, return to the same colony each year. Thediet of the Arctic Tern varies depending on location and season, butis usually small fish, such as sand eels.So next time you enter an Arctic Tern colony and get pecked inthe head, show some respect. This cosmopolitan bird is only tryingto defend its sparsely made nest. PS a4 atlantica

ICELANDI C DESIGNCINTAMANI.ISCINTAMANI AUSTURHRAUN 3210 GARÐABÆ, TEL. 533 3805CINTAMANI KRINGLAN103 REYKJAVIK, TEL. 533 3003CINTAMANI CENTER LAUGAVEGUR 11101 REYKJAVIK, TEL. 517 8088

The Frozen TroveDowntown Reykjavíker Sari Peltonen collects the unusual, entertaining and hip from the green pastures of Icelandic culture.Ain’t No MountainHigh EnoughDone the jeep, taken the bus and riddenthe horse? Then why not hit the Icelandicwilderness on the back of a mountainbike? “The landscape is so spectacular andremote—you don’t get to see these thingsanywhere else in the world. You get tosee the landscape being created in frontof your eyes,” says David Robertson, bikeenthusiast, Kría bike shop owner and mastermindbehind ride.is mountain bike tours.You won’t have to squeeze a set of wheelsin your luggage either: the company offerspro-bikes to rent. And if the rough side istoo rough, the Kría crew rent city bikes too,not to mention building their own customized,ultra-stylish rides—you may just endup flying home with a 2-wheeler in the holdafter all. The tours were set to start in June,for more information log on to ride.is andkriacycles.com.Meet the Local SweeneyToddVolcanic VaseLooking for a souvenir from Iceland? There could hardly be a timelier item than theFlower Eruption vase range, designed by Jón Björnsson under his label Bjöss.The designer studied slap bang in the centre of European design at the DesignAcademy Eindhoven in Holland, but upon finishing returned to live and work in hischildhood home village of Höfn (population 2,110) on the south east coast of Iceland.Taking inspiration from the local landscape, the angular, greyish black vases are madeby casting volcanic sand from the nearby Austur-Skaftafellssýsla beaches in papermoulds. “The sand is mixed with resin,” explains Björnsson. “After the resin dries themould is torn off and the finished vase appears.” Should we expect a special collectionfor 2010, with sand fresh off the Eyjafjallajökull eruption? “I am currently playing withthe ash…” Björnsson says. Stay tuned. bjoss.comAt the Barbershop Theater, a combined hair salonand event space, Anna S. Pálsdóttir will both cut yourhair and throw you a party. Torchbearer for the hairyprofession, twice a year Pálsdóttir also produces herown cut collection. Spring-summer line 2010 ‘WhiteGoddess’ is inspired by “fairytales, unicorns and thecolors in the fairytale books, as well as the energy andthe movements and the way things are going in theworld at the moment,” Pálsdóttir explains. The shapesare symmetric and brilliantly cut, with silver andblonde matte shades. The collection consists of fourlooks in total for both men and women. Pálsdóttirwill also do you a bespoke creation, or if you fancya gamble come on a ‘Freaky Friday’, and the cut willcome as a surprise to everyone—including yourself.Tel: 863-2662ATLANTICA 7

on the flyTen Minutes with theSixty Minutes ManScott Pelley of 60 Minutes reports on the volcano in Eyjafjallajökull glacier.Páll Stefánsson spoke to him about Iceland and the future of reporting.It’s the second time for 60 Minutes man ScottPelley in Iceland. This time around he came tolook at the fuming Eyjafjallajökull volcano.“The first time I came to Iceland was in Junetwo years ago. I was doing a program about climatechange for CBS News 60 Minutes and I waspleasantly surprised. I had been in Greenlandbefore and expected Iceland to be kind of asmall version of Greenland. Iceland surprised me,mostly because of its rugged beauty. I would liketo see Iceland in December, when it’s totally dark.To see the contrast,” said Pelley.Now he came to see Mother Nature at full forceand witness the Eyjafjallajökull eruption withhis own eyes—a volcanic event which stoppedalmost all air traffic in Europe for a whole weekin the middle of April. He was impressed and gotgreat shots in the five days he stayed in Iceland.“I had to see the eruption with my own eyesand report from the place. 60 Minutes is the onlynews show in the US which does all reporting inhigh-definition and we go places. That’s one ofthe reasons why we have 20 million loyal viewersevery Sunday night. We bring quality to theirliving rooms and have done so for 42 years,” hesaid.He believes journalism is in a huge transitionright now. “I started reporting 35 years ago atPhoto By Páll Stefánssona newspaper, and at the time the letters werecast in lead. The newspaper as we know it onpaper will not survive. But quality journalism willthrive and have a bright future. People will bewilling to pay for downloads of quality reporting.Therefore the New York Times, Wall Street Journal,Washington Post will all survive, but on deviceslike iPad. Devices like phones will be hybrid, youwill be able to scan the newspapers and watchtelevision on them. Programs like 60 minutes willbe interactive. Soon you will be able to watchnew and old episodes, go behind the scenes andalmost be part of the program.” a8 atlantica

On the FlyA Feast Fit for KingsPhoto By Páll StefánssonAlda Kravec sneaks a peek into the old residence on the islandof Videy as it prepares for a summer of regal dining.The island of Videy is a natural haven within the city limits.There you will find sculptures by Richard Serra and YokoOno’s Peace Column, a memorial for John Lennon.Once upon a time, a Danish adventurer by the name of Jorgen Jorgensensailed to Iceland on an English merchant ship. But when the Governor ofIceland refused the ship access to the local market, Jorgensen gathered up someof the crew, arrested the Governor, declared the Icelandic nation free of Danishrule and appointed himself as interim Protector until the country was ready toreinstate the Althingi and establish democracy. A revolutionary proclamation wasdrawn up, a new national flag commissioned, and, of course, a great feast was heldin honor of the new leader.The feast was held on Videy, an island in the bay on the north side of Reykjavík.Nothing was spared in the selection of this sumptuous banquet, which included asago pudding cooked in red wine with raisins, roasted lamb served alongside sourweed mash, salmon in brown butter, Arctic Tern eggs with cream, waffles “measuringthe length of an octavo manuscript,” various breads, plenty of wine, rumpunch and coffee to finish. Such was the opulence afforded by this evening’s finefare that the host’s chair is said to have given way beneath the freshly devouredextra weight.Although Jorgensen’s rule turned out to be as fleeting as the feast whichwelcomed it, the legend lives on, and today, 200 years later, the old residenceon Videy has re-opened its culinary doors to the general public. Fridgeir IngiEiríksson, head chef at Hotel Holt’s fine dining Gallery Restaurant (est. 1965) in10 atlanticaFridgeir Ingi Eiríksson, head chef at Hótel Holt, and his staffcook lava dinner at Fimmvörduháls with thevolcano blowing behind them.Photo By Kristján Logason

www.bluelagoon.comanton&bergur

On the FlySculptures by Richard Serra grace the island of Videy.Photo By Páll Stefánssondowntown Reykjavík, has recently taken over management of the café anddining hall on Videy, and he hopes to recreate the legendary reception givento the so-called Dog Days King in 1809. “The house on Videy is the oldest onein Iceland and I am not about to throw out the old and bring in the new,”says Eiríksson. “In addition to recreating the meal, I want to have the staffdressed in traditional costumes in order to give guests a visual clue aboutthe period.”The Jorgensen feast is only one idea among many that Eiríksson has linedup for the dining hall on Videy (Videyjarstofa). Having once worked his wayup to head chef at the Michelin starred Domaine de Clairfontaine in Lyon,Eiríksson is a disciple of the French school of cooking. Thus, in early June, theVideyjarstofa offered a five course, French-inspired dinner accompanied bya special selection of wines imported from Château Cantenac Brown in theBordeaux region.Despite his respect for traditional methods and old-fashioned things,Eiríksson is not afraid of experimenting with new ideas. Shortly after the firstvolcanic eruption in March, he was on the scene, cooking lobster soup andfrying up monkfish in pots and pans placed directly on the lava. AlthoughVidey has not been volcanically active for some two million years, the islandpossesses a rich and varied history and abounds in plant and bird life.Before the famous Skúli Magnússon built the Videy residence in 1755, theisland first housed an Augustinian monastery (1225-1550) and then a lepercolony. More recently, in 2007, it became the site of Yoko Ono’s ImaginePeace Tower.Correspondingly, Eiríksson enthuses about the possibility of cateringto the flower power generation through a special tribute dinner. Askedwhether he might not also pay tribute to Skúli Magnússon, Fridgeir repliesexcitedly, “Yes, definitely! There’s no doubt Skúli had some favorite dishesand famous receptions, and I plan to look into that. In fact, the bread rollsnow offered at the Videy café are baked with the same cumin that Skúliintroduced to the island in the 18th century.”Indeed, the special Videy cumin attracts numerous visitors who arefree to gather seeds in August. Of the 156 species of vascular plants thatgrow on Videy, rhubarb is among the edible kind that Eiríksson intends toharvest, in addition to the sour weed (Rumex acetosella, a type of sorrel)that appeared on the menu for the Jorgensen feast. Although gatheringeggs from the nesting Arctic Terns may prove a little trickier legislatively,Eiríksson remains positive and yet flexible, appearing rather more forwardlookingthan old-fashioned. videyjarstofa.is a12 atlantica

THE FOLK MUSEUM AT SKÓGAR preserves the culturalheritage of the Rangárvallasýsla and Vestur-Skaftafellssýslaregion, in the form of tools and equipment used at landand at sea, crafts, old buildings, books, manuscripts anddocuments.Reconstruction of old turf farmhouses has been one ofthe principal features of the museum’s work. The pride ofthe museum is the Skógar Church, built in the style whichpredominated in Iceland from the Middle Ages until the 19thcentury.Iceland was swept into modernity in an amazingly shorttime. A new museum, built in 2002, exhibits the developmentof travel and communication, road building and mechanisationat the beginning of the 20 th century. Visit also theSkógar Boutique and Skógar Café in the new museum.YOUR LUXURY HOME AWAY FROMHOME - DOWNTOWN REYKJAVÍKTHE FOLKMUSEUMAT SKÓGARwww.yourhost.is/luxuryapartmentContact:+ 354 551 1730What’s OnIn Reykjavíkwww.heimur.is/world861 HVOLSVÖLLUR - OPEN DAILY FROM 9:00 TO 18:00TEL: (+354) 487 8845 FAX (+354) 487 8848. skogasafn@skogasafn.is www.skogasafn.isNationalMuseumof IcelandLaugavegur 1Photo: Hallgrímur Kristinsson- ReykjavíkThe country’s 1896 largest museum of cultural history featuring a permanentexhibition on Iceland’s extraordinary history from settlement to present day.Opening hours:Summer (May 1st – September 15th):Daily 10am – 5pm.Winter (September 16th – April 30th):Daily 11am – 5pm except Mondays.ÁlafossvegurGuided tours in English:June 1st – September 15th:Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday 11am.Wool - Sweaters - YarnBlankets - Gloves - SouvernirsMosfellsbær23Suðurgata 41 • 101 ReykjavíkTel. 530 2200 • www.natmus.isPhoto: Benjamín VilhelmssonStep intothe Viking AgeExperienceAðalstræti 16www.reykjavik871.isViking-Age Reykjavík at the new SettlementExhibition. The focus of the exhibition is an excavatedlonghouse site which dates from the 10th century ad. Itincludes relics of human habitation from about 871, theoldest such site found in Iceland.Multimedia techniques bring Reykjavík’s past to life,providing visitors with insights into how people lived inthe Viking Age, and what the Reykjavík environmentlooked like to the first settlers.Get the greatest view of IcelandYou will find our brochure at your hotelor guesthouse reception or check outour webpage: www.grayline.isBooking service available 24 hours a dayTel: +354 540 1313 - Email: iceland@grayline.is

on the flyIn Full Bl o mBy Sari PeltonenPortrait by Páll StefánssonLandscape architect Dagný Bjarnadóttir thoughtoutside the box and put flowers inside it. .Wearing a big bright plastic sunflower in her red hairand a delicate bracelet with ceramic blooms, DagnýBjarnadóttir looks the part spot-on as the woman behind flowerfurniture. Her FurniBloom design line is a set of chairs, benchand Plexiglas table incorporating a lidded box. While a vegetablepatch is often hidden away in a dark corner of the garden,FurniBloom makes it the centerpiece, bringing a bit of natureto even the tightest of spaces. “It has a double function—youcan sit on it and you can open it and eat from it,” Bjarnadóttirexplains, “I thought this will make people smile.” An instant hit,FurniBloom caused a buzz even before it emerged from theprototype stage. Originally introduced in the Magma Kvikadesign exhibition in 2007, flowery furniture is finally availablefor home horticulturalists.While the designer has herself cultivated crops ranging fromthyme to strawberries in FurniBloom, this summer it is filled14 atlantica

Landscape architect and designer Dagný Bjarnadóttir.

On the FlyFurniBloom is a set of see-through gardenfurniture made from plexiglass. Thefurniture can be used for growingflowers and vegetables andthus becomes partof the garden.with lava rocks, topographic models and photos. At China’sShanghai Expo 2010, FurniBloom serves as the display unit forthe ‘New Nordic Landscapes’ exhibition, organized in conjunctionwith the Nordic lighthouse pavilion, as part of the jointpromotional effort between the Nordic countries. The entireexhibition square in front of the pavilion, with swan-inspiredsunshades, water canals and FurniBlooms is a Bjarnadóttirdesign.Chinese Expos, functional furniture sets, traditionalgardens—Bjarnadóttir’s breadth of projects is wide. ForDesignMarch 2010, the local annual design event, she decorateddowntown parking places with her trademark flowersin the ‘Park or park?’ event. “I wanted to make people thinkabout how we use our space, I wanted to wake them up a bit,”Bjarnadóttir explains, “but the projects that I love the mostare the projects where I can surprise people. I want to bringhappiness.”In the town of Hella, she shaped the children’s swimmingpool like a troll foot, yet the best landscape architectureaccording to Bjarnadóttir is less noticeable. “In the best places,you don’t really see it, but you feel good and enjoy yourself.”One must wonder, though, how it is to be a landscapearchitect in a country like Iceland, with its vast wildernessand stunted flora. “Oh, I could design in a desert!” Bjarnadóttirlaughs, “It’s not the material, it’s the imagination.” afurnibloom.com16 atlantica

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On the FlyDivineLightsThe incredible aurora borealis, volcano shots, geothermal energy and the Icelandic horse in itsnatural surroundings are to name but a few themes in an amazing photographic exhibitionby two Icelandic award-winning amateur photographers. The exhibition is held atCity Hall in Reykjavík 3 – 18 July.Olgeir AndréssonOlgeir Andrésson is a fisherman turned photographer who specializes in winterphotography. One of his night shots of northern lights over Thingvellir won firstprize in a photo competition held by the Danish photo magazine Zoom in 2008.“This is my contribution to promote Iceland in winter and to show how beautifulthe aurora borealis is,” says Andrésson.He has been on the hunt for years to capture the northern lights in all theirglory. “It can get very cold, waiting for exactly the right moment to take theperfect picture as the northern lights most often show on frosty, clear nights.But I have seen amazingly beautiful things. Divine, in my opinion,” he says.Jóhann Smári KarlssonJóhann Smári Karlsson works as a painter but has always been interested in photography.In 2009 he took part in Zoom’s Photo Grand Prix and won first prize infive out of six competitions. He then bagged the first prize of the year for his contribution.Many of his photos show horses and landscapes, which Karlsson says isa coincidence, “Because in 2009 I was driving back and forth between Selfoss andReykjavík for my job and there are horses everywhere along the way.”His themes are varied and he mixes in people and animals which are nearlyabsent in Andrésson’s work.“I am very fond of my country and its natural elements, geothermal power, animalsand the landscape which offers endless motifs. When I got a decent digitalcamera a few years ago my interest in photography developed into a craze. I nowspend more time taking photographs than doing my job,” says Karlsson. BB a18 atlantica

Centre Nature/Centre universitaire de SuðurnesThe Nature Centre/University Centre of SuðurnesGarðvegur 1, Sandgerði (Aéroport/Airport: 6 min,Reykjavík: 40 min)Ouvert/Open LUN-VEN/MON-FRI: 9 –17, SAM-DIM/SAT-SUN: 13-17.Renseignements/Information: (354) 423 75551.www.sandgerdi.isL’ATTRACTIONDES PÔLESUne exposition permanentesur la vie et l’œuvre deJean-Baptiste Charcot.EXPOSITION DE LAFAUNE ISLANDAISELes oiseaux migrateurs abondentdans la région de Sandgerði.ATTRACTION OFTHE POLESAn exhibition on the life and fateof the French polar explorerJean-Baptiste Charcot.EXHIBITION OF THEICELANDIC FAUNAThe Sandgerði region isparticularly rich in migratory birds.View of Eyjafjallajökull after the eruptionVolcano Tours offers tours to view the effect of the eruption close to the mountain.We drive in jeep off roads and cross rivers into the eruption ash area north ofEyjafjallajökull then we take a look at the bridge where the flood fromeruption passed by then we stop at the beautiful waterfall Seljalandsfoss.Volcano Gardenreykjanes peninsulaDrive into lava field and volcanoes, hike to volcano craters and lava caves, geysers,hot springs and geothermal areas at the Reykjanes peninsula with view ofwhite caped waves of the Atlantic Ocean with birds and seals.Volcano Tours Phone: +354-4268822 · volcano@volcano.iswww.volcano.is

On the FlyHarbor the Art■■Villa Reykjavík is a cooperative art project of thirteen prominent European art gallerieswhich will enliven Reykjavík for a whole month from 9 July. The exhibits will take place inempty buildings in the old harbor area which will come alive with all sorts of art displays,happenings, performances, concerts and film screenings. Here you will be able to seemodern art in a new and fresh environment as the show sets out to release a collectiveenergy—art in its many manifestations, a penchant for experimentation and risk.One of the clubs in the city will become the club of Villa Reykjavík where artists, galleryowners, curators and the public will interact and have a chance to meet. The Icelandicpart of the show is in the hands of the imaginative Kling&Bang artists from Reykjavík sothe undertaking is bound to be adventurous and lively. BB aMore info at villareykjavík.com■■ Rafał Bujnowski Portrait of Louis-Auguste Cyparis,2010, volcanic sand, resin, courtesy Raster, Warsaw■ Piotr Janas Poster \ Picture, 2010Courtesy Foksal Gallery Foundation, Warsaw■ Michael Sailstorfer T 72 (sand), 2008inflatable tank dummy, 4 air conveyer, Siemenscontrol system, photo Alexis Zavialoff ©VG Bild-Kunst,Bonn, courtesy Johann König, Berlin■ Prinz Gholam Air, 2009performance, 30 min., October 10, 2009, Musée desAugustins, Toulouse (La Nuit des Tableaux Vivants /Printemps de Septembre), photo R.Gabalda, AFP,courtesy Galerie Jocelyn Wolff, Paris■20 atlantica

A beautifulcollection of handmadehistorical ornaments& souvenirsHand in HandwitH naturebags and accessoriesin fish skinFrakkastígur 10 · 101 reykjavíkPhones: +354 551 3160, +354 868 6798e-mail: gullkistan@vortex.iswww.thjodbuningasilfur.isI C e L A n d I C d e s I g nLaugavegur 1 • 101 Reykjavík • IcelandTel: +354 511 0991www.elm.is • elm@elm.isd e s I g n e d b y w o m e n f o R w o m e n

On the FlyA Challenge of the MindBy Bjarni BrynjólfssonPhotos Páll StefánssonSea swimming in the icy Atlantic has been attracting more and more people in the last fiveyears. Today the Reykjavík Sea Swimmers Association (Sjór) has close to 200 memberswho practice this freezing activity on a regular basis throughout the winter andof course in summer when the sea is considerably warmer.The most common spot for cold water swimmingis the geothermal beach at Nauthólsvík,in Reykjavík. Natural hot water flows out intothe sea and the sense of swimming in the cleanArctic Ocean or bathing in the geothermal lagoonis like no other. Visits to the beach in wintertimehave multiplied, showing the popularity in sheernumbers. In 2007 827 visits were recorded, in 2008there were 3,300 visits and in 2009 the numbershad exceeded 12,000. The beach has great facilitiesfor sea swimmers: dressing rooms, hot potsand showers to wash the salt off. This year they22 atlantica

Swimming in cold water has multiple healthbenefits according to Hjartarson. “It hasvery much become part of the healthwave as it is considered good forthe skin, for blood circulationand the immune system.”are expecting over 40,000 visitors, summer trafficnot included.In the Icelandic Sagas there are several episodesof people doing famous bouts of cold water swimming.One particular story is that of Grettir theStrong, who swam from the island of Drangey inSkagafjördur to shore, then recuperated in a naturalhotpot on the shore afterwards which still exists.Many have swum in his wake and every summernumerous swimmers take on this distance.Sea swimming is good for the health and anexcellent form of recreation, exercise and athleticatlantica 23

On the Flytraining, say Benedikt Hjartarson and Árni ThórÁrnason. The former is the first Icelander to swimthe English Channel. Both have been active coldwater swimmers for years and have now starteda company called Coldwater which organizes seaswimming expeditions for visitors. “We know allthe best spots for swimming in the clean Atlantic,so if people want to take a dip they should contactus,” says Hjartarson.Swimming in cold water has multiple healthbenefits according to Hjartarson. “It has very muchbecome part of the health wave as it is consideredgood for the skin, for blood circulation and theimmune system,” he says.In summer the temperature of the sea aroundIceland is usually about 10°C but in fjords andinlets it can easily reach 15°C. “During winter weoften swim in water down to –2°C. The best timefor practicing for beginners is from mid July to theend of August when the sea slowly starts coolingdown again,” says Árnason.Stepping into the ice cold water for the first timecan be a challenge even for the strong hearted.Árnason maintains that if a person knows howto swim it is first and foremost a challenge of themind. “When you try this for the first time youhave to remember to control your breathing.There is considerable danger of hyperventilatingand panicking. If you overcome that obstacle andconcentrate on the breathing everything becomeseasier,” he says.But when the limbs go numb, including thearms with which you swim, the danger of drowningbecomes imminent. “There are a few safeguardswe always stress for newcomers. No matterhow experienced you are you should never swimalone, you should stay close to the shore and listencarefully to your body,” says Hjartarson.Icelandic cold water swimmers have recentlydiscovered the picturesque rugged lava shorenear Reykjanesvirkjun geothermal power plantwhere hundreds of tons of hot water flow into thesea in a steaming hot river. The stretch of beachis fascinating as Atlantica discovered on a visitthere with a group of swimmers recently. Thereare natural hotpots close to the open Atlanticbut the coast is extremely rugged and dangerousfor the inexperienced. “The sea is actually quitewarm out there—it can be up to 30°C—but it ishazardous because of strong currents and waveswhich can smash swimmers into the rocky beachand actually drag them down. I would not dare totake beginners out there,” says Árnason. “There areplenty of other places here where sea swimmingcan be practiced safely according to all securityrules. And when you get into the sport it is anabsolutely fantastic experience.” aOrganized Summer Events forColdwater Swimmers7 July: Fossvogur.A 600 and 1,200 meter swim.22 July: Bessastadir.Swimmers participate in a swimof 2.2 km or 4.2 km.9 August: Fossvogur.A 600 or 1,200 meter swim.14 August: Five Islands Swim.Only for experienced coldwater swimmers, 12.5 km.20 August: The Videy Swim.Participants swim 900 or 1,800meters. This is probably thelargest sea swimming eventin the country.For more information visitsjosund.is24 atlantica

Saltfishmuseum inGrindavikMuseum | Art gallery | Information centerOpen:Every day from11:00to18:00Admission:ISK500for adultsISK250for childrenCaféteriaGroup services:Saltfish and winetasting...The history of saltfish is presented in a magnificent 650 m²specially designed facility...Other activities in Grindavik:Thermal swimming poolHorse rentalGreat camping groundMarked hiking trails - Cave tripsArt galleries & seafood restaurantsMagnificent harbour area view from the museumOnly 45 km from Reykjavik.Less than 5 minutes fromthe Blue LagoonThe Icelandic Saltfishmuseum in GrindavikHAFNARGATA12A - 240 GRINDAVÍK - TEL: 420 1190WWW.SALTFISKSETUR.ISICELANDICINS ALTFISHMUSEUMGRINDAVÍKSpectators gazing at the eruption at dusk.atlantica 25

See the Big Whales BlowBy Bjarni BrynjólfssonPhotos by Páll Stefánsson26 atlantica

Take a morning walk in the charming fishing village ofHúsavík (‘bay of houses’) and you’ll find the harbor bustlingwith fishermen, visitors and locals. The old Icelandicboats built from oak, which have served generations as fishingboats, have been renovated and polished to modern standards toserve as whale-watching vessels in Skjálfandi Bay.Two licensed whale watching companies operate out of Húsavíkharbor. Both have old oak boats and offer scheduled tours throughoutthe summer when you can expect whales to be seen.The bay is basically teeming with whales. Whale populationshave multiplied in the past twenty years or so. Here you can seeminke whales, humpbacks, sperm whales, orcas, dolphins and otherspecies that come to the bay to feed in the rich waters.Occasionally the majestic blue whale, the rarest of all whales andthe largest mammal on earth, graces spectators with its long, broadback and magnificent tail. When the blue whale blows, time comesto a halt. The jump of the humpback whale is equally gracious.atlantica 27

a See the Big Whales BlowThe birdlife at sea is just as spectacular with puffins, guillemots, gulls and gannets finding theirlivelihood here, close to the Arctic Circle.Over the last fifteen years Húsavík has enjoyed a steady increase in visitors who come to see thewhales and to visit the excellent Whale Museum. The town has become the whale watching centerof Iceland. Even so, whale watching can be enjoyed in many other towns and villages around thecountry too, including the capital Reykjavík where several companies offer excellent trips with nearlyguaranteed sightings of whales in the Faxaflói bay. a28 atlantica

Laugavegur 1 • Reykjavík • 581 1250Hafnarstræti 3 • Reykjavík • 551 1250Hafnarstræti 104 • Akureyri • 4615551

a Tricky VolcanoKarmic Paybackby Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir Photo by Páll StefánssonFor someone who is not a believer in the supernatural, Christina Sunley has hadher share of strange coincidences, laying out the path towards her becominga bestselling author. The Tricking of Freya, her debut, is set in an Icelandicfishing village in Canada as well as in Iceland itself and Sunley weavesin references to Icelandic culture and literary heritage. It’s a novel shethought the average American might find too “obscure” to pick up.“My life has been determinedby volcanoes,” says ChristinaSunley matter-of-factly whilesipping her latte at a downtown Reykjavík café.“If it hadn’t been for the volcanic eruption inAskja in 1875, my grandfather never wouldhave immigrated to North America and I neverwould have written my book. I might not evenbe here.” Now, when it looked as if the eruptionin Eyjafjallajökull might have prevented Sunley’sbook tour in Iceland, the volcano kindly stoppederupting, just in time for her trip.Sunley’s debut novel, The Tricking of Freya,was released in the US by St. Martin’s Pressearly last year to much critical acclaim and madethe San Francisco Chronicle bestseller list for severalweeks. The book’s Icelandic translation wasreleased in late 2009. “It did alright,” says Sunleymodestly of her novel’s success in the US. “Inever thought it would become a bestseller. Mygoal was just to finish the book.”The Tricking of Freya was eight years in themaking. While writing it, Sunley held a fulltimejob in the software industry and used herfree time to comb through volume after volumeof sagas, poetry and family history—which hermother mailed to her—and visit the sites whereher family lived in Iceland and Canada. “I wasbeginning to think I would never finish. It feltas if I were stuck in a bog. But I did and founda publisher right away. I was very lucky. I thinkit must have been karmic payback,” says Sunleysmiling.An American of Icelandic descent, Sunleygrew up in New York City, listening to hermother’s tales of ‘our people’—their Icelandic30 atlanticarelatives and ancestors in Iceland and Canada.However, she didn’t meet these people whilegrowing up. After losing both parents at a youngage, Sunley’s mother was sent away from herchildhood home in Winnipeg, Manitoba, to livewith relatives in the US, becoming estrangedfrom her older sister and other family membersback in Canada. “In The Tricking of FreyaI invented the relatives I wished I’d had,” shesays.We get to know Freya, the book’s protagonist,at the tender age of seven, when her mothertakes her to visit her relatives in Gimli for thefirst time. Up until then, Freya, much like Sunley,only knew ‘her people’ through her mother’sstories. In Gimli, Freya meets her grandmother,Sigga, and her wild aunt Birdie, who teaches herall about the Icelandic language and literature.“I never wanted to write about myself or myfamily, so I started creating these fictional characters.While the character of Birdie evolved Icame to the conclusion that she must be manicdepressive so I did a lot of research on that.”Later she learned that her mother had sufferedfrom that very mental illness.While Sunley emphasizes that The Trickingof Freya is not autobiographical, it still has elementsof her own difficult childhood experienceof growing up with a mother who suffered froma mood disorder. However, while researchingand writing the book, Sunley became closerto her mother. Unfortunately her mother diedsuddenly before the book was finished, so shewas never able to read the final version. “I wasdevastated,” Sunley says. “But maybe I wouldn’thave had as much freedom to develop thecharacter of Birdie if my mother had still beenalive.” Sunley is confident, though, that hermother would have approved of the completednovel, declaring mysteriously, “She’s here withme now.”Although Sunley never met her maternalgrandparents, they still had a significant impacton her becoming a novelist. While writing washer passion, Sunley went to film school insteadof pursuing a career as an author. “Then I hadthis vivid dream about my grandmother pushingwords out through my fingers in a streamof light. I felt it was powerful and that I had tolisten.”The character of Freya’s grandfather, Ólafurthe poet, is based on Sunley’s own grandfatherof the same name. As a young boy on a farmin East Iceland he woke up one day to the skybeing black as night, with ‘black snow’ fallingfrom the sky. It turned out to be ash fall fromthe volcanic eruption in Askja, which blackedout the sun. “That image has haunted me all mylife,” Sunley says.Sunley reveals that she has enough materialfor another Iceland-related book, which she isholding off for now, as she is currently workingon a historical novel set in America. But will webe hearing more about Freya? “I never planned asequel. I quite like the way the book ended. NowI’m interested in learning what Icelandic readersmake of it.” aRead more about Sunley’s book tour inIceland on her blog:christinasunley.typepad.com

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Child’s Playby John Boyce Photos by Páll StefánssonÁrbaejarsafn Open Air FolkMuseumOpening hours June, July, August: Tues - Fri 10a.m. – 5 p.m. / Weekends 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.This open air museum was established in 1957by the city of Reykjavík to preserve old styledwelling houses and work-shops amid fears thatold Reykjavík was disappearing forever. Most ofthe houses are originally from the city center,the oldest of which dates back to 1820. Duringthe summer months elderly citizens show off oldmethods of work and professions. The employeesalso dress in traditional Icelandic costumes ofyesteryear. The museum is particularly popularwith families and school tours because of its vividrecreations and its entertainment and educationalvalue. A hop, skip and jump from the museum isone of Reykjavík’s most child friendly swimmingpools, Árbaejarlaug. Relax with a good soak inthe hot pot or steam bath while the kids enjoythrashing about in the pool or skipping down thewater slides.Nauthólsvík Thermal Beachand Hot PotA pleasant 15 minute walk from downtown is theheated beach at Nauthólsvík. The miniature whitesand beach opened in 2000 when the municipalitycordoned off a section of the bay and proceededto pump vast amounts of naturally occurring geothermalwater into the 3,500 square meter area.The effect is to take a considerable edge off theicy Atlantic.If the water is still just too cold, let the kids bravethe sea water while mom and dad need proceed nofurther than the hot pot installed at the edge of thebeach, free of charge for native and visitor alike.Showers and changing facilities are also provided,along with a modest coffee shop serving ices andhot drinks. After your refreshing dip in the hot potyou can take the kids for a leisurely stroll in theadjacent woods, a popular place for picnicking andscouting activities. We also recommend the excellentand numerous swimming pools in the capital,run under the auspices of ÍTR, the sports and leisuredivision of Reykjavík City.32 atlantica

For many people the ideal getaway involves packing the kids off to the grandparentsand heading to an exotic location for some much needed R and R. For thosewho choose to embark on an old fashioned family holiday, finding a happybalance of relaxation for mom and dad and fun filled activities for thekids can often be the biggest holiday headache. With this conundrumin mind Atlantica has come up with a guide to childand family friendly activities in or close to Reykjavík.Heidmörk Conservation AreaIt was in the 1950s that municipal authorities became most interestedin the preservation of the nature and heritage of Iceland. Withthese objectives in mind the stunning countryside of Heidmörk,which lies just six kilometers from the capital, was proclaimed amunicipal conservation area in 1950. The area is a treasure of flora,fauna and wildlife, including 26 species of trees.It remains one of the most popular places within the environs ofthe city to get away from it all. It has long been a popular haven forjoggers and cyclists as its winding paths provide the perfect locationfor a spot of serene exercise. You may also come across nature lovers,flower gatherers and school and kindergarten groups. When theweather permits, there is no better place in the country for a pleasantfamily day out. In some of the open spaces there are facilities forbarbecuing, swings and other playground facilities for children.atlantica 33

aChild’s PlayPhoto By Bjarni BrynjólfssonReykjavík Zooand Family ParkThe Reykjavík family park situated in the heartof the city is a long established favorite withkids of all ages. It was opened in 1990 and specializesin Icelandic domestic animals as wellas some wild native breeds, including foxes,minks, reindeer and, everybody’s favorite, thefish guzzling seals. The park is also a rehabilitationcentre for stricken wild animals. The mostrecent addition to the park has been the newaquarium which houses over twenty speciesof fish and was opened in 2004. For the olderchildren there is the educational and fun scienceworld where you can measure the volume ofyour scream and blow giant size soap bubbles.Set in the environs of the park is a mini fairgroundwith boat rides on the lake, train rides,small riding tours for kids around the park andmany other attractions including go-carts and arifle range. One can purchase individual ticketsfor each ride, but if you plan to make a day ofit, an armband day pass is by far the best value.The biggest problem you will have at the parkis getting your kids to leave!Open AgricultureAs part of an initiative between the IcelandicFarm Holidays Association and local farmers,the concept of open agriculture was born toprovide foreigners and natives alike with aninsight into the workings of Icelandic farmsand rural life in general. Dozens of farms, manyjust a stone’s throw from the capital, operatean open farm policy, with facilities that makefor the perfect family day trip, or indeed, a fullstay in the countryside. These farms represent across section of Icelandic agriculture today.For more information on family friendly tripsgo to bondi.isKayak Tours in StokkseyriFor those venturing out of the capital, a mustdofamily trip is the family and leisure parkin Stokkseyri, a mere 45 minute drive fromReykjavík. Attractions include a huge playground,giant inflated bouncing cushion andcastle, and a tranquil bird pond. The premierattraction however is the Kayak toursfor all the family on the freshwater lakes.Professional guides will take you to all the bestnature spots, including the habitats of rarebirds and seals. For more information contacttofrar@stokkseyri.is.Petting Zoo at SlakkiIf one cares to venture a little further afield, thepetting zoo at Slakki is a glorious day out forboth kids and parents. Set in the lush southerncountryside about 100 km from Reykjavík, thezoo contains all manner of small Icelandic creatureswhile the aquarium houses giant shrimps.Visitors can get close to the animals, touch andeven feed them depending on the time of day.While the kids explore the zoo, mom and dadcan take refuge in the pleasant garden restaurantor even try their hand at mini-golf or pool.Further details are available at slakki.is.Rey Cup WeekendThe International Rey Cup football competitiontakes place in the midst of the Icelandic summerto ensure the best weather conditions forboth players and spectators. Every year, youthteams from Iceland, Scandinavia and Englandcompete over the course of the weekend for theRey Cup title. The event takes place from 21 –25 July and is a great activity for all the familywhere kids, whether competitors or spectators,can meet. Over 70 teams from various countrieshave enlisted for this year’s event. Round off thefootball festivities with a relaxed stroll round thenearby botanical gardens.Adventure Land, KringlanOn any family holiday there is always a certainamount of shopping to be done and with thekids in tow it can be a stressful experience,particularly with younger children. A handysolution is Iceland’s most popular shoppingcentre, Kringlan, close to the heart of downtown. Adventure Land, situated inside the mall,is a large and well designed play land for kidsbetween the ages of three and nine. Attractionsinclude slides, tunnels and a soft ball pen forkids to dive into. There is also an arts and craftssection for older children. Adventure Land hasan excellent security system where each child isfitted with an identity and monitoring belt. Toensure their whereabouts are known at all times,simply take your ticket and leave your phonenumber. Mom and dad are then free to pick upthose essential items, indulge in some gift shopping,or simply take time out for coffee. a34 atlantica

EIDERDOWN DUVETSWorld of Puppets in BorgarnesMuseum - TheaterCafé - Gallerywww.bruduheimar.isTel. 530 5000WELCOME TO OUR EIDERDOWNCOMFORTER FACTORY SHOPIN THE CENTRE OF REYKJAVÍK.We offer the largest selection of quality whitegoose-, swan-, duck-, and eiderdown comfortersand pillows in all international sizes.Wholesale - Retail - Taxfree world wide exportLaugavegur 87 - 101 ReykjavíkTel. +354 511 2004Mobile: +354 861 4186Fax + 354 511 2003E-mail: dunogfi dur@dunogfi dur.iswww.dunogfidur.is1.600m 2 of interesting facts about whalesand several breathtaking life-sized exhibits.A must for anyone interested in whales.The Húsavík Whale MuseumHafnarstétt 1, 640 Húsavík. Tel.: 414 2800info@whalemuseum.is http://whalemuseum.isFun for thewhole familyFree admittance for kidsOpening hours: 6:45-20:00 weekdays,8:00-18:00 weekendsfamily swimming pool

Daladalur valley and the farm Hólagerdi in Fáskrúdsfjördur fjord.9:26 p.m. June 13, Fuji GX 680III, 500mm, 1/250 f16, Velvia 100.36 atlantica

asternPhotos by Páll stefánssonromisesAdifferent world, a very different world to thecapital region is East Iceland. Stretching from thebird cliffs and the wind in Langanes peninsula inthe North East, to the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in theSouth East, is East Iceland with all its natural wondersand great outdoors. There are the mountainous fjords andcharming small villages, my favorites being Seydisfjördurand Borgarfjördur Eystri. You have Papey—the puffinisland near Djúpivogur—and the endless vastness of thehighlands in the vicinity of mount Snaefell, the only placein Iceland where reindeer roam free. East Iceland is a placeto rediscover a different Iceland. PS aatlantica 37

a Eastern PromisesSeydisfjördur is a very picturesque fishing town with a population of about 700.8:55 a.m. June 14, Fuji GX 680III, 125mm, 1/8 f27, Velvia 100.38 atlantica

Eastern Promises aInnra Hvannagil canyon in Njardvík, close to Borgarfjördur Eystri village.3:16 a.m. June 14, Fuji GX 680III, 65mm, 1/1 f8, Velvia 100.

a Eastern PromisesMidnight sun reflects on a pond at Stekkjamelar, close to Héradsflói, on the way to Borgarfjördur Eystri.4:18 a.m. June 14, Fuji GX 680III, 250mm, 1/8 f22, Velvia 100.40 atlantica

Eastern Promises aPuffins number in the thousands on Papey Island, off thecoast near Djúpivogur village.4:07 p.m. June 13, Fuji GX 680III, 500mm, 1/125 f9.5, Velvia 100.

a Eastern PromisesLindarbakki, a house more than a hundred years old in Borgarfjördur Eystri village.2:38 a.m. June 14, Fuji GX 680III, 50mm, 1/2 f5.6, Velvia 100.Mount Röndólfur at the bottom of Berufjördur fjord.7:49 p.m. June 13, Fuji GX 680III, 180mm, 1/250 f9.5, Velvia 100.42 atlantica

ExquisiTE icELAndic foodMeat and fish, hamburgers and other fast foodAn elegant hall for social functions on lease.A small casino for entertainment.Live music (dancing) every weekend from11pm - 3am.Live soccer matches on big screen TVOpening hours: Monday-Thursday 11.00 - 01.00, Fridays: 11.00 - 03.00,Saturdays: 12.00 - 03.00,Sundays: 13.00 - 01.00The kitchen is opendaily till 21.00Hamraborg 11, 200 Kópavogur Tel: 554 2166 www.catalina.is

Countryside Cultureby John BoycePhotos By Páll StefánssonThough most of Iceland’s well known and best funded museums are situated in andaround the capital, there are a myriad of lesser known, locally and privatelyfunded exhibition halls and museums that chronicle many interestingand quirky aspects of Icelandic society, culture and history. Checkout some of the following on your trip around the island.44 atlantica

Countryside Culture aÁrnesinga Folk Museum in EyrarbakkiThe Árnesinga Folk Museum is located in the small town of Eyrarbakki in the south of Iceland.It is situated in one of the oldest surviving buildings in the country. “The House” was transportedin kit form from Denmark more than 250 years ago and was reassembled in 1765,comprising two stories and an attic. The house has seen history aplenty over the centuries andexhibits are designed to be informative of both local history and the different roles the househas played in its long life. It has survived the most turbulent of times including the disastrousfloods of 1799 which swept away the entire hamlet of Básendar. In 1881, an extension, knownas the assistant’s house, was added to the west of the house.Laxness Museum at Gljúfrasteinn inMosfellsbaerWithout doubt the most eminent Icelandic man of letters, Halldór Laxnessreceived the Nobel Prize for literature in 1955. Among his timeless classicsis the world renowned Independent People. A short drive from Reykjavíkis the homestead of Gljúfrasteinn, in Mosfellsbaer municipality. This wasthe home of the Laxness family for almost 50 years. The house has beenconverted into a museum and remains just as it was when the great writerlived and worked there.Among the activities of interest is a multi-media presentation at thereception which details the author’s work and often controversial life inthe turbulent era of the Cold War. For many years, Laxness was a committedcommunist which went very much against the establishment grain,particularly with Iceland’s entry into NATO shortly after the end of WorldWar II. Inside the historic house, the visitor may take a guided audio tour inEnglish, Swedish, Danish or German to gain an insight into how the authorlived and produced his literary masterpieces. Copies of his major worksare available in a range of languages from the shop at the reception. Thestunning gardens of the property are open to the public and one can take anumber of pleasant walks while enjoying wonderful views and nature.Opening hours: 1 June – 31 August every day 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.1 September – 31 May every day but Monday from 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.atlantica 45

a Countryside CultureBustarfell Folk Museum inVopnafjördur.The Salt Fish Museum in GrindavíkOn the south side of the Reykjanes peninsula, just a stone’s throw from the Blue Lagoon, is the smalland picturesque fishing town of Grindavík with a population of less than 3,000 people. Though smallin size, it is grand in historical stature. Back in the middle ages it was a major trading center and thescene of many a fierce pirate raid, and its coastline is the location of countless shipwrecks. The debrisof the two most recent can be spotted by taking a hike around the outskirts of the town. The town stillretains an active fishing fleet that specializes in salt fish, one of the reasons for its importance in thedays before refrigeration when salt fish was Iceland’s ‘oil’. Take a stroll along one of the most majesticharbors in the country and you will come upon the Icelandic Salt Fish Museum, opened in 2002. Takeadvantage of a unique opportunity to learn about an industry that is integral to the social and economicdevelopment of this island nation.The museum boasts a striking exhibition on the daily and yearly struggle for survival of this salt-ofthe-earthindustry and of the many people associated with it. The exhibition reveals, though life likerecreations, the treacherous sea voyages and the salting process. Visitors can take the guided audiotour, available in four different languages, to enhance the Salt Fish Museum experience.Opening hours: every day 11 a.m. – 6 p.m.Bustarfell ancestral farm at Hofsárdalurvalley in the east of the island encapsulatesIcelandic rural history at its moststunning. It is perhaps one of the oldestand best preserved farm houses ofits kind in the entire country. It is thequintessential 18th-century rural dwellinghome complete with red gables andturf roof. To visit the museum is to takean unforgettable journey through thehistory of Icelandic farming. The exhibitsalso provide a rich insight into the changinglifestyles of rural Icelanders over thelast 200 years. In 1532, Bustarfell wasbought by Árni Brandsson, son of thevicar at Höfn in Vopnafjördur and his wifeÚlfheidur, whose tombstone is preservedin the National Museum of Iceland. Sincethen the farmhouse was inhabited byan unbroken line of descendants until1966, when the house was preserved asa national treasure for posterity. Everyyear more and more artifacts are donatedto the museum’s collection which enrichthe exhibitions of local rural life in timespast. In 2006 the Croft Café visitor centerwas established to improve services forguests, taking its name from the tenantfarmers of crofters who worked the landand lived in small turf cottages.Opening hours: 10 June – 10 September 10a.m. – 6 p.m.46 atlantica

Countryside Culture aThe Aviation Museum in AkureyriThe history of aviation is probably older than one would imagine for a small impoverishedand isolated country at the turn of the 20th century. The first successful lift off was achievednear Reykjavík in an Avro bi-plane. The flight lasted all of 12 seconds and covered a distanceof 37 meters. It was a mere sixteen years after the Marx Brothers made history in 1903. Itwould be another ten years before the first passenger flight made it from the capital toIceland’s second biggest population center, Akureyri, in the north of the country. Sincethen, the town has developed a healthy interest in all things aviation. This led to the openingof the Aviation Museum in June 2000, covering three main areas of interest. First, thehistory of aviation is traced in photographic and anecdotal form to the present day. Thereare also many complete airplane models on display, including the first glider built in thetown in 1937 and Iceland’s oldest ambulance plane, along with a variety of primitive flyingcontraptions suspended from the ceiling of the museum. Among the most fascinatingexhibits is the display of well-preserved artifacts from the British military plane the ‘FairyBattle’ which crash landed in 1941 and remained undiscovered beneath a glacier until1999. The museum also houses a workshop where old aircraft models are repaired.Opening hours: May – August 11 a.m. – 5 p.m.September – April Saturdays 2 – 5 p.m. and on requestThe Whale Museum in HúsavíkThe picturesque town of Húsavík lies in the north east of Iceland on the shores of Skjálfandi bay, averitable stone’s throw from the Arctic Circle. Every year thousands of visitors go whale watching fromHúsavík, with nearly complete certainty in catching a glimpse of these graceful giants in motion. It is fittingthen that Iceland’s first whale museum should be situated here. Set up as a non-profit organizationin 1997, it began life as a modest exhibition in one of the town’s hotels. Such was its popularity that ithas moved twice since then to larger premises. In 2000 the town’s old slaughterhouse was remodeledto house the growing collection and officially opened in 2002. The museum aims to educate the publicon whales, their natural history and their ecosystem, with special attention given to north Atlantic species.On two floors, the upstairs exhibition area contains the whale gallery with authentic skeletons ofnine species, including the minke, the bottlenose and the sperm whale. The museum’s extensive openinghours are made possible with the assistance of a volunteer program, whereby students and whaleenthusiasts volunteer to assist in the day to day running of the museum and conduct research. Themuseum was acknowledged as an educational facility by the Icelandic ministry of education in 2006.Opening hours: June – August 9 a.m. – 7 p.m..The Glacier Exhibition in HöfnThe fishing village of Höfn is set in the magnificent hinterland of the majestic Vatnajökullglacier in the Southwest of the island. Activities on offer include glacial hiking, jeep tours andsailing on the glacial lagoon. You can round off a strenuous day’s outdoor activities with a visitto Ice-land Glacier Exhibition in Höfn. Open all year, it is a veritable font of information aboutthe development of one of Iceland’s, and indeed the world’s, great forces of nature. There is amyriad of interactive experiences to be had at the exhibition. Check out the scenes from theJames Bond movies filmed on location at the glacial lagoon, or explore the walk-in replica of anice cave complete with stalagmites and stalactites. Also on display are fully preserved creaturesfrom the Icelandic wild, including a fully grown male reindeer. As an educational experience itis hard to beat with exhaustive information on glaciology tailored to suit all levels and ages. Atrip to the top of the building to finish your visit is highly recommended to take in the stunningviews of the surrounding district including the majestic glacier in the near distance.Opening hours: Every day 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.atlantica 47

a Countryside CultureThe Icelandic Phallological Museum in Húsavík.Also located in Húsavík, the Phallological Museum is one of the trulyunique collections on the island. It is possibly the only museum inthe world dedicated to the collection of phallic symbols of the world.Phallology is one of the great ancient sciences which received little attentionin Iceland until the efforts of its curator, Sigurdur Hjartarsson, a retiredcollege teacher of history.The Museum contains over one hundred penises and penile parts fromalmost every mammal to be found in Iceland. Whales are the best representedwith over thirty specimens. Other specimens of interest includethe rogue polar bear and several species of seal and walrus. The museumwas originally located in the heart of Reykjavík and opened in 1997 with62 specimens. Upon retiring in 2004 to Húsavík, the whale capital ofIceland, Hjartarsson took the whole kit and caboodle north with him.Public reaction to his efforts has been positive, with more than 100 articlesfrom 26 different countries written about the museum. As of summer2009, more than 11,000 people had visited this extraordinary collection.Opening hours: 20 May – 10 September 12 p.m. – 6 p.m. dailyThe Sea Monster Museum in BíldudalurOpened in the summer of 2009, the Sea Monster Museumin Bíldudalur traces the countless stories of sea monstersightings and encounters in the Arnarfjördur fjord and theWest Fjords. Multimedia screens and quirky, dark lit roomscreate a unique atmosphere where the history of sea monstersin the fjord is conveyed in an eerie manner. Museumcreator, film maker Kári Schram, has made a documentaryabout sea monsters in which he interviewed people whohad seen the creatures. There are stories of monsters tryingto enter and break down farms, chasing people withno good intention, and of monsters attacking trawlers andhurting sailors. Schram suspects these creatures of thedeep sea come into the fjord to spawn in September whenthe sightings occur most often. “There are kettles in thefjord which are more than 100 meters deep,” he says. “Whoknows what is hiding in these crevices and caves?”The most reported sightings are of ‘mermen’ and fjörulalli,or shore crawler, which leaves huge hoof-like tracks. Nospecimen has ever been captured alive or dead or filmedwith any accuracy but Schram does not let that waterdown his belief. “Scientists are constantly discovering newlife forms on earth. The shallow seas and the deep seasof the north are among those places on the planet whichwe know least about. There could well exist shy creatureswhich lurk in the depths most of the time and have theurge to come ashore once in awhile.” a48 atlantica

aIcelandic Design JewelryIcecold 14 kt.Gold CollectionBrynjaLaugavegi 29, 101 ReykjavíkVeiðihorniðSíðumúla 8, 108 ReykjavíkTel.: (+354) 899 6903palli@knifemaker.is www.knifemaker.isPIPAR • SÍA • 80762www.jonogoskar.isLavastonesLaugavegur 61 / Smáralind / Kringlanwww.alafoss.isIcelandicwool andsouvenirs18961896Álafossvegur 23, Mosfellsbær - Open mon. - fri.: 9:00 - 18:00 & sat.: 9:00 - 16:00

a Down on the Farmby Deb SmithPhotos by Luis Castañeda (Portraits)and Páll StefánssonThe Skyr StoryOne early morning in Iceland, my sonConor and I visited HallgrímskirkjaCathedral. We took photos ofReykjavík city from the church tower and photosof each other against the stunning backdropof Mount Esja, visible from the church’s frontwalk. We also decided to visit Matvöruverslunsupermarket on Skólavördustígur street, justdown from the church. I was looking for skyr.My guidebook’s description of this sort-ofyogurt,sort-of-cheese made me curious to trythe Icelandic dairy delicacy.Inside, the small supermarket was a delight:pleasant cashiers who welcomed us, even morepleasant local folks (one lady took time to explainwhy Icelanders regard mountains as female—two credits for my side.) There were giant-sizeQuality Street sweets in the bin by the registerand tubes of thick, smooth Scandinavian handcreams on the shelf. Best of all, the refrigeratorcase had at least eight flavors of skyr.Dazzled, I bought a tub of peach skyr andpaid at the till. Then I went right out to thecurb, unwrapped the tub and sank the plasticspoon into the creamy whiteness. Astonished,Conor photographed me sampling my skyr inbroad daylight.If you like dairy, as I do, this is heavenly stuff.Skyr is formed by heating milk, adding rennet (asetting agent once made from cattle stomachsand now also made from vegetable sources) andholding the milk warm until it forms curds andwhey. When the whey is drained off and thelarge jelly-like curds are processed to form asmooth consistency, skyr is formed. So it’s a softcheese with the clever ability to taste like puddingeven as it looks like yogurt.Best of all, skyr is made with skimmed milk.My 6-ounce tub of flavored skyr contained 150calories, 16 grams of protein, 150 mg of calciumand no fat. Plain skyr, depending on the brand,will cost you 100-120 calories. The consistencyof pudding without its clawing sweetness, evenflavored varieties of skyr never overwhelm.(Skyr also lacks yogurt’s tangy tartness: fineby me.) I went back inside the market to buyfour more flavors and a tub of plain skyr, too.After all, there was so little time and I wantedto taste it all.Some nights during our trip I made skyr mywhole dinner. It pairs well with fruit and anytype of sweetener. Skyr also stirs into a creamyconsistency with mix-ins like nuts and muesli.With the exception of one brand in funkyflavors like acai and ginger, skyr is virtuallyunknown where I live in America. So when Icould buy it in Iceland, I did: any brand, lots offlavors. It provided a fair amount of plastic tubrecycling for the Icelandic nation, while laterreassuring my doctor on my annual visit that Iwasn’t lacking calcium.And skyr found me as well. Lunch at the50 atlantica

a The Skyr StoryIcelandic Fish & Chips restaurant was freshlyprepared fish with ‘skyronnaise’—skyr baseddipping sauces in flavors like basil, curry andmore. At Thrír Frakkar restaurant I treatedmyself to skyr brulee. The taste of the bruleewas as fantastic as its presentation: it arrived in aramekin with the traditional sugar crust, alongsidea burst of whipped cream and a ribbon ofvanilla syrup. Dotted into the syrup were threehearts, shaped out of raspberry syrup. Whocouldn’t fall in love with that?At Keflavík airport, we boarded our planeback to the States. To my amazement, the manacross from me was eating—skyr. He’d broughtan insulated lunch carrier and stuffed it full ofskyr tubs. I didn’t think you could bring that onthe plane, but I’ll find out next time.Back at home, I searched the Internet fora simple skyr recipe. (Apparently the actualcreation of skyr, like a Michelangelo painting,is more complicated than it looks.) I found arecipe that I use when my family has neglectedto drink all the milk we have delivered eachweek. My homemade skyr has a chalky aftertastethough; Icelandic skyr doesn’t. Again onthe Internet, I found out Icelandic skyr is sold atthe Whole Foods market near my niece’s home.That’s a road trip I can see on the horizon evennow.I’ll keep on looking and experimenting, butwhen I return to Iceland, perhaps I could talkmy way into touring a skyr factory to see howthe real thing is made. And this time, I’ll bringmy insulated lunch bag. a52 atlantica

Out and Aboutby John BoycePhotos by Páll StefánssonAtlantica’s guide to the social, cultural and sporting events of the summer.Icelanders are renowned for their love of sunshine, probably because they get so verylittle of it. At the first sign of early summer sunshine, the natives come out in theirshorts and sunglasses, while mystified tourists remain huddled in their overcoats andwooly caps. The first rays of sunshine also herald the beginning of a myriad of events—cultural, social and sporting—with something to appeal to all tastes and ages. Oneknows that summer has truly arrived with the advent of the Icelandic IndependenceDay celebrations on 17 June. In terms of popular participation it is by far the biggestevent of the year complete with parades and all day concert offerings. From then untilthe end of September it is a rare weekend that does not provide entertainment aplenty.The following are some of the highlights to set off your Icelandic summer experience.54 atlantica

Out and About aCultural EventsThe Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum, dedicated to one of Iceland’s most renownedartists, clears its main hall weekly to host a feast of classical music. Every Tuesdayfrom the middle of July to early September members of the Icelandic philharmonicorchestra perform a wide variety of pieces from domestic and international composers.A more intense classical experience is to be had at the International ClassicalMusic festival at Reykholt, a small municipality in the west of the island just northof Reykjavík. Held annually since 1997, in the last week of July, the festival is celebratedin Reykholt church, once home to renowned Saga writer Snorri Sturluson.For a more comprehensive cultural experience, the second last weekend inAugust plays host to another of the biggest gatherings of the year. Saturday the21st is the annual Menningarnótt, or Culture Night. All forms of cultural and artisticpursuits are represented, with concerts, exhibitions and performances taking placein the streets, cafés, museums and concert halls of the capital. Most of the eventsare free and run from early afternoon long into the evening, ending with a spectacularfireworks show near the old harbor.Lovers of contemporary and classical jazz will revel in the Reykjavík InternationalJazz Festival in August. The festival has its origins in the Nordic Jazz Days event thatbegan in 1990. As it celebrates its twentieth anniversary, the festival will be biggerthan ever, running from 13 August to 1 September. The festival features over fiftyevents from solo performances to big band blow outs, by both Icelandic artists andinternational acts from Scandinavia, France, Austria and the USA.Following hot on the heels of the jazz celebrations is the Reykjavík InternationalFilm Festival. Growing in strength from year to year, the event, now in its 7th year,will feature more than 70 films from over 20 different countries. The films competein a number of categories, ranging from short films to new directors, including thetop prize, the Golden Puffin.Social EventsThe last weekend of July, 23 – 25, is perfect for heading out to the East Fjords to visitBorgarfjördur Eystri for the music festival Braedslan held in an old herring factory.The village has just under 100 inhabitants but the festival attracts 1,000 visitorsevery year. The line-up this year has the cream of the crop of Icelandic pop, rock andfolk, including Dikta, KK and Ellen, 200,000 Naglbítar and others.The first weekend of August is the biggest holiday weekend of the year,verslunarmannahelgi (workers’ weekend). The closest equivalent Iceland has to anAmerican style labor day, the holiday prompts a massive exodus from the capital,as families and groups take off around the country to spend the weekend in tentsand summer houses. Go fishing in Iceland’s pristine trout lakes, head to the countrysideor mountains, or blend in with the natives at one of the many music festivalsand social events that take place around the country. The most renowned oneand drawing the most people takes place on Heimaey in the Westman Islands andattracts hordes of Icelandic music fans each year, ending with a spectacular bonfireand sing-along on Sunday night.It is also the one weekend of the year that leaves the city center unusually calm,perfect for those who want to stay behind and party with a little more elbow room.Look out for Innipúkinn indoor music festival held in Reykjavík the same weekend.The national partying continues on the second weekend with the four day gaypride celebrations. The event is truly a phenomenon in Reykjavík, bringing enormouscrowds on to main street Laugavegur, followed by an open air concert in thecentre. In attendance, it is an event that is only surpassed by Independence Daycelebrations. In recent years it has become a truly family event with kids and adultsalike lining the streets as the lavish and meticulously planned parade winds its waydowntown. Long after families have retired for the evening, the younger generation,gay and straight alike, party until the small hours.For a complete alternative to gay pride mayhem, escape to the North, to thepicturesque town of Dalvík for the Big Fish Day. Every year, thousands of peopledescend on the town of little more than 1,500 people. Guests are invited to theharbor for a free fish soup in celebration of the importance of sea creatures to islandlife. The food is followed by all sorts of entertainment throughout the afternoon.atlantica 55

a Out and About■ Cintamani / www.cintamani.isSporting eventsDespite the all too brief summer season, Icelanders are enthusiastic sportspeopleand like to make the most of the very long summer daylight hours. If you justmissed out on the Arctic Open international Golf Tournament in late June, thereare several other sporting events to tickle your fancy. In July, Iceland plays host tothe Rey Cup, an international youth soccer competition, attracting male and femaleteams from all over Scandinavia and Britain, as well as Iceland. The event runs from21 to 25 July and is ideal family entertainment.If you want something entirely different and slightly adventurous, head toÍsafjördur town in the West Fjords for the Swamp Soccer tournament, held in thelavish valley Tungudalur. This is extremely visual and difficult, and we guaranteeyour days will be filled with laughter and excitement.Later in the summer, 21 August, the capital plays host to the Reykjavík Marathonwhen literally thousands take to streets on the morning of Culture Day. The eventregularly attracts about 3,500 entrants including more than 500 foreigners whofly in especially for the event. More experienced participants can choose betweenthe full marathon and the half marathon, while those with more fragile or inexperiencedlimbs can opt for the 3, 5 or 10 kilometer races. There is also an informalfamily race for those who want to bring the kids. a56 atlantica

Design aOnly available at the Duty Free Store"visit our store and have a lava bite"Surtsey 1964

The Hengill TrekPhotos by Páll stefánsson58 atlantica

Design aTrekking is by far the best way to explore the Icelandicwilderness. Robin Vaughan-Williams writes abouthis trek to Innstidalur valley in the Hengillmountain range.The first time I came across Innstidalurvalley, it took my breath away. Nestledhigh up in the mountains, I felt like I’ddiscovered a hidden valley. Its broad, flat bottomwas carpeted in swathes of long grass, cut acrossby the loops of an interminably meanderingstream. It looked like the kind of place picnicswere made for.I’d been driving around for ages in search ofthe starting point for a walk that would take meup to Vörduskeggi, a summit over 800 m highin the Hengill mountain range, but had beenthrown off the scent by a large constructionsite and triangular warning signs right whereI’d been planning to go. Instead, I took a steeptrack up the side of a hill, which led to yet moredodgy tracks winding their way into a ruggedand altogether barren landscape.I had no idea where I was and had given uphope of finding my way to Vörduskeggi. Theseroads weren’t even on the map! There werelarge pipes running alongside the road, andevery now and then I’d pass a cluster of multifacetedpods that looked like nothing so much aslunar landing modules. As so often happens outin the Icelandic wilderness, I began to get thefeeling I was perhaps not on the same planet asthe one I had woken up on.Finally, the road came to an end at another ofthose lunar pods, surrounded by what seemedlike a vast empty car park, which had been mysteriouslysituated on top of a mountain. I walkedover to the edge and there it was laid out belowme—Innstidalur, my route to Vörduskeggi. Myonly problem was how to get down there; I wasstanding on top of a cliff.Vörduskeggi turned out to be the mostspectacular walk I have done within reachof Reykjavík. Because of its height, the sum-atlantica 59

a The Hengill Trekmit offers unparalleled views over the wholeregion. To the north you can see the corrugatedridges of the Dyrafjöll hills leadingup to lake Thingvallavatn, and far below theNesjavellir power station. West of the lake, theMosfellsheidi plain stretches out to the Esjamassif, which overlooks Reykjavík, and thecapital itself. From the city, you can then followthe coastline south to the lava fields and Bláfjöllmountains on the Reykjanes peninsula, whichreaches out towards Keflavík. It is an incrediblefeeling, being able to see all this just by turningyour head, and gives you a sense of the lie of theland, drawing together the different places youmay have visited in south-west Iceland.So how did I make it down to Innstidalur?Well, I headed for the least alarming lookingscree I could find and scrambled down. Butthis is not something I would recommend, andthere is a more orthodox route, which is in factquite easy to find; you just have to ignore theconstruction site.The route begins at Sleggjubeinsdalur, nearthe Hellisheidi power station, and is a constantdelight, taking you through an ever-changinglandscape with shifting views, first lookingsouth, then west, then opening out to the 360°panorama at the summit. It is easy to follow, asit is clearly marked the whole way with coloredpoles, and though it is steep in places, doesn’trequire any special mountaineering skills orequipment in the summer months, except fora decent pair of boots, of course. Three tofour hours should be sufficient for the returnhike, and because the ground is soft underfootfor much of the route, it’s not too hard on theknees. Even in places where the ground is rocky,the stones sometimes give when you step onthem. Be warned though, on several occasionsmy feet went straight through!One of the unusual features of the walk isthe chance to see at close hand one of Iceland’sgeothermal power stations, which generate 20percent of the country’s electricity and heatmost of its homes. This is the Hellisheidi powerstation, whose great billowing clouds of vaporare a familiar sight to anyone traveling eastof Reykjavík along Route 1 in the directionof Hveragerdi and Vík. The power station isthere because the whole area sits on top of theHengill volcanic system, which last erupted2,000 years ago and is responsible for the faultlines that run through the ancient parliamentsite of Thingvellir.The construction site that sent me awry onmy first trip to Hengill is part of an expansionplan for the power station, which should havea capacity of 300 MW when complete. Thelunar pods I had seen are actually the coversfor boreholes, which are sunk as far as 3 kmunderground, and each of these is connectedto a short chimney called a ‘muffler’, which isdesigned to reduce the noise levels of the superheatedsteam. This does not, however, mean thatthey are quiet, just that your hearing shouldn’tbe damaged if you stand too close to one.The roar of the chimneys is quickly leftbehind as the path rises up a steep valley, also agreat place for picking bilberries and crowberriesin late summer. On the way up, there isa hot spring marked by the yellow and whitestains of geothermal deposits, and at the top isa wide pass, which opens up into Innstidalur.From here, you could saunter across Innstidalurtowards another valley with a hot spring, whichrises steeply up towards Vörduskeggi. My preferredroute, however, leads up a ridge to theleft. If you straddle this ridge at its highest point,you find yourself peering down some 200 m toInnstidalur on one side, but when you look overto Mosfellsheidi plain on the other side, it seemsto be at least twice as far down. This creates anexhilarating feeling of the ground level shiftingbeneath you.Further on, the path crosses a pebbly plateau,then up into rocky mountain valleys with dramaticcliffs, possibly some patches of snow, andover a few screes. When I crossed one of thesescrees in mid-May, it was still covered in snowfor about twenty meters. The snow was so hardI couldn’t actually form an edge in it with myboots. Instead I had to climb up to a point wherethe snowfield was narrower, then throw stonesdown to get some grip and use a jagged rockas a makeshift ice-axe. On the way back, I wasfortunately able to cross over a ridge higher up,which avoided the snow, and also provided someexcellent views. The snow should be clear fromlate May through to early September at least,but at any other time a pair of crampons wouldbe advisable for this section.Soon after this, the path reaches a high col,where it is rejoined by the alternative route thatruns across Innstidalur, and from here it is justa short walk up to the summit. The rock formsup here are fascinating. There are black and greyrocks, orange and red; the redder the rock, thecloser the site of its eruption, as a general rule.There are dramatic, rough-hewn shapes, andsmooth slabs eroded into flowing forms withpockets and grooves, all the result of volcanicand glacial activity.Hengill is essentially a móberg mountain,meaning it was formed through sub-glacialeruptions. This produces a lot of palagonitetuff, a kind of composite rock formed by ashand other eruptive materials being compressedand glued together under the pressure of theglacier. Sometimes móberg looks a bit like concrete,but it often has bits of stone and smallrock called breccia lodged in it too, which areprone to crumble. You can see this fragility nearthe top, where there is a small lake and a row ofoverhanging boulders. These could look temptingif you are a climber, but you wouldn’t wantto hang your weight on one. a60 atlantica

How to get there?Less than one hour from Reykjavík, but you do need a car.Take Route 1 east out of Reykjavík in the direction of Vík.When you spot the Hellisheidi power station with its plumesof vapor, look out for Route 378 on the left. Take this pastthe power station, and turn left when you see the sign toSleggjubeinsdalur, immediately after a cattle grid. Take the firstright, and follow the road to the two boreholes (resemblinglunar pods) and muffler chimneys at the end of the road.How to find the way?Follow the yellow and blue poles to the topof the valley. From the pass at the top, followthe yellow and black poles leading to the leftall the way to the summit. There are severalsignposts, and you should always take theVörduskeggi direction. For the alternativeroute, cutting across Innstidalur, keep followingthe yellow and blue poles.How far?6.9 km (Sleggjubeinsdalur–Vörduskeggi), 3–4 hoursType of walk?Intermediate, 600 m verticalascent, mixture of steep and gentle.Crampons required outsideof summer.

Summerin the CityTwenty-four hours of daylight transform the world’s most northerly capital,Reykjavík, into another world. It’s time to dress up and usethe best time of the year to celebrate, or justhave fun in the cool city.

Photos: Páll StefánssonModel: Katrín Á Johnsondresses: ELM Laugavegur 1, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: +354 511 0991. elm.isBracelet: Icecold by Jón og Óskar, Laugavegur 61, 101 Reykjavík.Tel.: +354 552 4910. jonogoskar.isDesign a

VILTU VINNA FERÐTIL TYRKLANDSFYRIR TVO?Ferðaleikur KeflavíkurflugvallarAllir farþegar sem fara í gegnum flugstöðinaeiga möguleika á að vinna. Dregið verður í desemberog mars. Þá hlýtur heppinn ferðalangur glæsilega10 daga ferð til Tyrklands fyrir tvo með fullu fæði.Verslaðu til að vinnaÞað er leikur einn að vera með: Þú þarft ekki að geraannað en að versla í flugstöðinni og þá færðu afhentalukkutölu. Og það sem meira er: Þú ákveður hvað þúvilt hafa miklar vinningslíkur í pottinum; því meira semþú kaupir því meiri líkur eru á að talan þín verði dregin út.Verslaðu fyrir5.000 kr. / og þú færð lukkutölu,15.000 kr. / og þú færð lukkutölu með tvöfalt vægi20.000 kr. / og þú færð lukkutölu með þrefalt vægi30.000 kr. / og þú færð lukkutölu með fjórfalt vægi40.000 kr. / og þú færð lukkutölu með fimmfalt vægiMeð því að versla fyrir meira en 50.000 kr. fær talanþín tífalt vægi.Þú skráir lukkutöluna þína í pottinn á vefsíðu okkarkefairport.isDregið verður 27. ágúst 2010 og verður nafnvinningshafans birt á heimasíðu okkar.ÍSLENSKA / SIA.IS / FLE 50394 05/10

WANT TO WINAN ICELAND CIRCLETRIP FOR TWO?Take part in our raffle gameAll tourists travelling through Keflavik International Airporthave the chance to win an exciting selfdrive tour where youexplore Iceland's rich natural treasures. The duration of thistour is 10 days and 9 nights. You will stay 7 nights at differenthotels while in the countryside and 2 nights in Reykjavík.Shop for a chance to winIt's easy to join our raffle: Make a purchase in one or moreshops at the air terminal and then you'll receive your rafflenumber. And what's more: It's up to you how big the odds arethat your number will be the winning number: The more youbuy the more chance you have of winning your trip to Iceland.You shop for5.000 kr. / and you'll receive your raffle number15.000 kr. / and your winning chance is two times greater20.000 kr. / and your winning chance is three times greater30.000 kr. / and your winning chance is four times greater40.000 kr. / and your winning chance is five times greaterIf you shop for more than 50.000 kr. your winning chance isten times greater!You enter your raffle number on our websitewww.kefairport.comThe winning numbers will be announcedon our website on August 27th.ÍSLENSKA / SIA.IS / FLE 50394 05/10

DAY TOURSwE‘LL TAKEYOU ThERE!DAY TOURS TO ALL ThE mOSTExcITInG PLAcES In IcELAnDRE-04 - 09:00The Golden circle09-17All YearMON TUE WED THU FRI SATDon’t miss out on the fascinating experience the Golden Circle gives you.On this tour, you can walk around the world-famous Geysir area, a geothermal field where hotsprings are in abundance, geysers explode and pools of mud bubble. Visit the magnificent Gullfosswaterfall along with a visit to Þingvellir national park, the original site of the oldest existing parliamentin the world. There the great Atlantic rift is clearly visible, a rift that is slowly pulling Iceland apartalong tectonic plates.SUNPRIcE9800ISKBook now on www.re.is Book now by calling 580 5450Bus fare to the Blue Lagoonand admissionDuration: FlexibleIncluded: Return bus fare andadmission to the Blue Lagoon.Pick up at hotels and guesthouses30 minutes before departure.PRIcE 6300 ISKRelax at the Blue LagoonAll YearMON TUE WED THU FRI SATSUNFlexibleThere is no better way to start or end your Iceland adventure thanby bathing in the famous Blue Lagoon.Reykjavik Excursions offer great flexibility in Blue Lagoon tours.You can either board the bus at BSÍ Bus Terminal in Reykjavík orat Keflavík Airport. After having enjoyed all that the Blue Lagoonhas to offer you can either return to Reykjavík or be dropped offat Keflavík Airport.Bus fare to the Blue LagoonDuration: FlexibleIncluded: Return bus fare.Pick up at hotels and guesthouses30 minutes before departure.PRIcE 3200 ISKSenior citizens -bus fare and admissionDuration: FlexibleIncluded: Return bus fare andadmission to the Blue Lagoon.Pick up at hotels and guesthouses30 minutes before departure.PRIcE 4200 ISK

OSpecial Special Internet Internet Offer* Offer*Online Online discount discount code: code: AT050810 AT081209Special Special Internet Internet Offer* Offer*Online Online discount discount code: code: AT150810 AT081209Special Internet Offer*Online discount code: AT081209RE-05 - 13:00Reykjavík Grand ExcursionMON SUN TUE WED THU FRI SATGet a detailed and comprehensive introductionto Reykjavík´s past and present.Reykjavík´s unique proximity to nature, withsalmon river Elliðaá running through it,green valleys and outdoor swimming pools,makes this city second to none in the world.PriceAll Year3900 ISKPrice4900 ISKSUN13-16Book now on www.re.isRE-92 - 08:00Landmannalaugar& Saga ValleyTUEEnjoy Iceland´s tranquil silence, peace andscenery in these spectacular and breathtakingsurroundings. En route throughÞjórsárdalur with its stunningly colorfuland diverse landscape and the Mt. Hekla,Iceland´s best known volcano (1498m).PriceSummerTHUSUN18000 ISK08-20Book now by calling 580 5450RE-15 - 09:00 RE-07 - 18:15South Shore AdventureAll YearA Sense of ReykjavíkMON SUN TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUNSUN WED THU FRI SAT09-19Iceland´s South coast is ideal for naturelovers of all kind. Spectacular scenery,striking waterfalls, stunning views of glaciers,black lava sand coastline, charmingvillages and impressive rock formations.Price12300 ISKPrice15400 ISKBook now on www.re.isAn enjoyable tour by foot!Reykjavík city centre is very compact andthere is no better way to discover it thanby strolling the streets and experiencingIcelandic history, culture, cuisine anddesign at a time.PriceSummer7500 ISK18:15-21Book now by calling 580 5450RE-08 - 09:00Saga circleSUN SATThis tour is perfect for all Saga enthusiasts.We take you around the area where oneof many of the Icelandic Sagas took place.En route you will enjoy spectacularlandscape, hot springs and waterfalls.Come and follow in the footsteps of theVikings with us.PriceAll Year14500 ISK09-18Book now by calling 580 5450RE-24 - 12:30Gullfoss - Geysir DirectSUN MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUNIn one afternoon you spend your timeencountering across-section of Iceland’snatural wonders and geologicalphenomena: the historical Þingvellirnational park, Geysir geothermal areaand the amazing Gullfoss waterfall.Don´t miss out on this one.PriceAll Year8600 ISK12:30-18Book now by calling 580 5450SRE-06 - 09:00The wonders of Reykjanes& Blue LagoonDon´miss out on discovering bubblinghot springs, dramatic lava fields,migratory birding cliffs, lonesomelighthouses and last but not least theBlue Lagoon*.*Admission to the Blue Lagoon is not incl.PriceSeasonal13500 ISKBook now by calling 580 545009-17SRE-44 - 09:00Gullfoss - Geysir &Langjökull SnowmobilingGet in touch with some of Iceland´s mostfamous and exciting natural phenomena.Pièce de resistance - a exhilarating 1 hoursnowmobile tour across the endless whitesnowfields will not leave you intact.1 September - 31 May on Thu., Fri., Sat. and Sun.PriceAll YearMON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT24500 ISKSUN*09-19Book now by calling 580 5450RE-16 - 08:00The wonders ofSnæfellsnes with cruiseWEDSummerSATSUN08-20For nature lovers this is a “must do” tour.Lush valleys and lava fields with soft moss,abundant birdlife, diverse flora, cratersand salmon rivers characterize this partof Iceland.SRE-54 - 12:30Gullfoss - Geysir& SnorkelingSummerMON TUE WED THU FRI SATSUN12:30-22Visit three of Iceland´s most famous andstunning places and finish a great day bysnorkeling in blue, sparkling clear waterglistening all around.RE-34 - 17:00Gullfoss - Geysir DirectSummerMON TUE WED THU FRI SATSUN17-22:30Three of Iceland´s most famous andmagical places - Gullfoss, the queen ofIcelandic waterfalls, spouting springs atGeysir geothermal area and Þingvellirnational park will leave serene andlasting memories.SRE-81 - 09:00Take a walk on the Ice SideAll YearMON TUE WED THU FRI SATSUN09-19Want to see and feel something completelydifferent? Why not take a walk ona glacier and experience a surface that youhave never been able to walk on before!Take a tour with us and try somethingnew - a once in a lifetime experience formost.Price24000 ISKBook now by calling 580 5450Price23500 ISKBook now by calling 580 5450Price8400 ISKBook now by calling 580 5450Price19900 ISKBook now by calling 580 5450* In order to activate the special internet offers you need to enter the online discount codes when booking on www.re.is.Special internet offers on this page can be booked through 31 August 2010.For further information & details on tours please referto our brochures.Travel AgencyAuthorised byIcelandic Tourist BoardBSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík • +354 580 5400 • main@re.is • www.re.is

aicelandSpecial promotionHistory and Nature at SandgerdiTake a drive along the Reykjanes peninsula and visit Sandgerdi, a friendly fishing villagewith a lot to offer. Learn about birds and aquatic life at the Nature Centre, visitthe art gallery Listatorg, and the historically significant Hvalneskirkja Church, builtin 1887 on an ancient church site. Go for a swim in the town’s new state-of-the-artswimming pool, do some bird watching or play a round of golf. Also, make sure tovisit the fascinating exhibition on the life and work of Dr. Jean-Baptiste Charcot atthe University Research Centre. Charcot was one of the great explorers of Antarcticand Arctic waters in the 20th century, leading two expeditions to the Southern Hemisphereand mapping a large part of the Antarctic Peninsula coastline. He and mostof his crew perished with the expedition ship Pourquoi pas? off the coast of Icelandin 1936, sending the whole nation into mourning for their friend. The exhibitionincludes a reconstructed research vessel, items from the Pourquoi pas? and Charcot’spersonal documents and other items.Style 101Located in the heart of Reykjavík’s city center, surrounded by restaurants, bars, theatersand shops, 101 hotel gets its name from the city’s most stylish postal code. Aworld-class boutique hotel and also a member of Design Hotels, 101 hotel featuresthirty-eight spacious rooms and suites with in-room amenities providing every moderncomfort. After enjoying all that the city has to offer, relax in the hotel’s luxuriousbasement gym and spa, which features a steam bath and a Jacuzzi, or unwind at the101 Bar and Restaurant, which with its casually cool ambience, ultra-modern blackand white decor, sleek lines and sky window is one of the trendiest places in town. Itsmenu offers an effortless fusion of contemporary Icelandic and international cuisinewith Indian influences. The hotel lounge is a wonderful place to relax by the fireplace,browsing through art and design books and enjoying the hotel’s ever-growing collectionof contemporary art. 101hotel.isSleep in LuxuryJust imagine sleeping under a warm, fluffy cloud. Eiderdown duvets give their ownersexactly that sensation. They provide excellent insulation and the exact warmthnecessary to sleep well, and are so lightweight that one only feels comfort.Eiderdown comforter factory shop Dún og fidur has the finest quality eiderdownduvets in Iceland. The duvets are handmade with 100 per cent downproof cotton andthe down is fully feather-free and washed.The shop is located on Reykjavík’s main shopping street Laugavegur and offers a widevariety of quality duvets and pillows, which can be purchased tax-free.The eider duck is an Arctic bird that can be found in large numbers along the coastlineof Iceland. The birds gather in colonies to nest. The female birds pluck their downto insulate their nests to keep their eggs warm and cozy. Eider farmers do everythingin their capacity to attract the birds and keep away predators. Eider ducks have longbeen a protected species in Iceland.dunogfidur.is.68 atlantica

Experience thepower of natureHekla Volcanic Body Scrub is a powerfulenergizing exfoliant that will clear away dead skincells and impurities to let fresh, invigorated and silkysmooth skin emerge to the surface.Hekla contains uplifting aromatic essential oils thatpush away stress and anxiety, filling you with volcanicenergy!The perfect anti-aging duoThe Rose Wonder is a rich and luxurious facialmoisturizer containing only the very best ingredients thatwork to diminish the signs of aging, while providing theperfect nutrition for your skin.Purity Herbs Facial Serum is densly packed withgoodness, containing herbs and oils that repair, regenerateand revitalize the skin – giving tired skin an extra boost.Treat yourself a healthy, youthful glowPurity Herbs skin care is availableat Keflavík Duty Free Store100% nature from Icelandfor those who (skin) careAt Purity Herbs, we create 100% natural, high quality skin care products using synergistic blends of Icelandic herbs,natural spring water and genuine essential oils. Each handcrafted product is a unique formulation working to deliver visible results.Purity Herbs uses only Earth friendly ingredients that provide maximum effectiveness. We do not test on animals.To see our complete range of skincare products, suited for all skin types, visit www.purityherbs.isPurity Herbs · Akureyri · Iceland www.purityherbs.is info@purityherbs.is

aicelandSpecial promotionThe Best-Known Brand in IcelandWhich Icelandic brand is the first to come to mind? If you ask the locals, the answeris 66°North. In a recent survey among executives of 350 of the largest localcompanies, the outdoor clothing manufacturer was selected as the best-knownbrand in Iceland.One of Iceland’s oldest companies, 66°North started in 1926 as a producer ofequipment for fishermen. Today, it is the leading name for innovative, supremequality clothing for sports and leisure, tough enough to meet the most demandingconditions and extreme adventures. With the recent recognition and a business thathas tripled in size over five years, Halldór G. Eyjólfsson (left), CEO of 66°North,has plenty to smile about. From the extensive range of clothing, trekking equipmentand bags, what does the boss swear by? “I was hiking last weekend in Hvannadalshnjúkur,and of course I was wearing 66°North from top to toe… do I reallyhave to pick just one?” Flagship store on Bankastraeti 5, 66north.comThe Treasure ChestA hidden gem just off the main street Laugavegur, the jewelry shop Gullsmidjan isrun by super lady Dóra Jónsdóttir, aged 80. Having started back in 1949, she tookover the shop from her father in 1970 and has been running it ever since. “I’vegot the health and I can see what I am doing, so I cannot stop!” she laughs. AtGullsmidjan, Jónsdóttir specializes in the beautiful historical jewelry that is wornwith the Icelandic national costume, with some models dating back to the 16thcentury. There is also a collection of exquisite handmade filigrees and a lovely lineof figurative silver pendants designed by Jónsdóttir’s father at the beginning of the20th century. With 60 years in the business and a warmth that you will not find ina chain store, a piece of jewelry from Gullsmidjan is more than just a souvenir, itis a genuine treasure. Open 2 – 6 p.m. Monday to Friday, 11 a.m. – 2 p.m. Saturday.Frakkastígur 10.Step Back in Time at Reykjavík’s MuseumsÁrbaer Museum Árbaer is a former farm and now an open-air museum with more than 20buildings which form a town square, a village and a farm.Árbaer Museum gives a sense of the architecture and way of life in late 19th-century Reykjavík.Visitors meet staff dressed in period costumes and many exhibitions and events held at themuseum highlight specific periods in Reykjavík’s history. The museum is open daily in summer.reykjavikmuseum.isReykjavík 871 +/-2: The Settlement Exhibition In 2001, a Viking-age longhouse fromaround 930 AD was found in an archaeological excavation in the center of Reykjavík. The ruinsof the longhouse and a part of a turf wall have been preserved and are now on display at the sitewhere they were discovered. These are among the oldest archaeological findings in Reykjavík.The Settlement Exhibition focuses on the interpretation of the ruins, and through various multimediasources visitors can find out about the lives of the people who lived there and see a modelof the longhouse. The exhibition is open daily. reykjavik871.is70 atlantica

the seasea and a delicios lblobsterinat Fjörubordid in StokkseyriThe LObsTer hOusehumarhúsiðThe Lobster housetakes pride in giving you the best,with top-class cuisine andhighly praised service.Our menu consists of a varietyof meat and fish dishes, andlobster is our speciality.The Seashore Restaurant in the village of Stokkseyriis an enchanted place of delightSpör - Ragnheiður ÁgústsdóttirReykjavíkEyrabakkiStokkseyri

aicelandSpecial promotionHigh FlyingLooking for a new perspective? Iceland’s leading helicopter service Nordurflug takesyou over and above the stunning vistas of Iceland. Nowhere else will you find thenorthern whaling grounds, shining white glaciers, steaming fissures and, the mostrecent addition, red glowing lava, all just a short chopper ride away. Nordurflugflights vary from day trips to 5-minute hops to the top of Reykjavík’s beautiful Mt.Esja. The most popular tour heads to Langjökull glacier, with views of river valleys,hydroelectric power stations, and the world famous sights of Gullfoss waterfall andGeysir, before a stop at the glacier to fill glasses with fresh ice cubes—or you can pushthe adrenaline level even higher with a snowmobile tour at the top of the world. “Wealways try our best to give our passengers a unique experience of Iceland,” says managerBirgir Ómar Haraldsson. In our opinion, they deliver some of the most uniqueexperiences of a lifetime. nordurflug.isThe National gallerySituated by the pond Tjörnin in a former ice storage building, the National Galleryis one of the capital’s must-stop cultural offerings. Originally established in 1884, ithosts an impressive collection of over 10,000 pieces of local and international 19thand 20th-century art. This is the place to see all the key works by Icelandic artists. Thissummer, Untitled Film Stills by American artist Cindy Sherman and prints by EdvardMunch are on display. The museum shop offers a wide range of designer items, booksand postcards—the beautiful tome Icelandic Art Today may just solve your souvenirtroubles. The dot above the i is café Marengs. What better way to end the art afternoonthan in sophisticated indulgence, with a glass of champagne and the signature‘Happy Cloud’ dessert, crowned with candies, berries, whipped cream and candles?Open Tuesday to Sunday 11 a.m. – 5 p.m., Fríkirkjuvegur 7. listasafn.isThe Center of Puppet ArtsIn a cluster of historic buildings in beautiful Borgarnes, world-renowned Germanpuppet maker Bernd Ogrodnik and his wife Hildur welcome you to the Centerof Puppet Arts, a fascinating world of culture and adventure for the entire family.A perfect way to spend the day, here you will find a theater, a puppet museum, agallery and a café in addition to Ogrodnik’s studio, where he crafts his legendarypuppets from wood, bringing fairytales to life. Not your ordinary museum, theCenter of Puppet Arts provides a theatrical experience, guaranteed to thrill guestsof all ages, even allowing children to play with Ogrodnik’s puppets and stage theirown performances. With magnificent views over the fjord, the Center of PuppetArts is situated by the beach, where children can play freely. They are also sure toenjoy the adjacent, full-fledged playground. In the meantime, the older generationscan enjoy wholesome yet delicious refreshments at the café or browse thegift shop, which offers a selection of exquisite objects, designed and handcrafted byOgrodnik himself. The Center of Puppet Arts is open in the summertime from 10a.m. to 10 p.m. On Sundays, children’s puppet-shows begin at 2 p.m. Guided visitsto Ogrodnik’s studio are available upon request. bruduheimar.is72 atlantica

GourmetFish shop andrestaurantTaste the freshnessof a farmer’s marketHoused in one of the city’s oldestbuildings, Fish Market usesingredients sourced directly from thenation’s best farms, lakes, and sea tocreate unforgettable Icelandic disheswith a modern twist.zMENUSoup of the day∑Fish∑CoffeeåOnlyIkr. 1290Gnoðavogur 44. tel.: +354 588 8686AÐALSTRÆTI 12 | +354 578 8877LUNCH WEEKDAYS 11:30 - 14:00EVENINGS 18:00 - 23:30FISHMARKET.ISANTON&BERGURtraditional icelandic lunch buffet every daywww.bluelagoon.com

a IcelandSpecial promotionEat, Meat & FishReykjavík’s chefs know how to feed their people. Here is a guide to the vie gourmande in the capital and beyond101 Hótel Vogue, GQ, Elle and Condé Nastall agree—when you come to Reykjavík thereis only one destination for a truly hip nightout: the restaurant and lounge at 101 Hótel.Deriving its name from the most stylish postalcode in the North Atlantic, 101’s casual diningroom is a chic but relaxed getaway with clean,elegant lines, heated oak floors and a sizeablecommunal fireplace—the ideal spot for a pickme-upbefore the opera next door, one of themore adventurous three-course meals in thecapital or even fabulous drinks to kick-start abig night on the town. Much like Indian/Icelandicchef Gunnvant Ármannsson, the kitchen at101 represents the best of Iceland infused withintriguing flavors from abroad. This summerÁrmannsson puts his spicy roots into the menuwith warm flavors like Vindaloo chicken, homemademango chutney and even coconut andginger crème brûlée. 101 also maintains strongties to the harbor and local farmers, meaningthe kitchen offers the freshest catch of the day,along with superior Icelandic lamb, arctic charand langoustine lobster. Unique food, swishdesign, laid-back atmo… this place is a dish.Kitchen open until 11—kicking bar after hours.580 0101. 101hotel.isAustur India Fjelagid For a rich sensoryexperience head to Harrison Ford’s favorite,Austur India Fjelagid. It is off the beaten trackand one of its finest features is its lack ofpretense and down-to-earth atmosphere. Werecommend starting with the Prawn Pollichithu,tiger prawns sautéed in chili, cumin, coriander,ginger and garlic or Kallimirchi Lobster withfreshly ground black pepper and coriander. Forthe main course, choose one of their famoustandoori dishes, such as the Hariyali Salmon,Gosht Charminar or Khalmi Kebab or indulge intheir sauce dishes like Kozzi Mappas or Lalmas.The food is a harmonious blend of the freshestlocal ingredients with freshly grounded spicesfrom India. To accompany your meal try theirMeeta Naan, bread stuffed with sweetenedcoconut and raisins and the tomato and spinachrice. There are plenty of choices for vegetariansas well. A local favorite for16 years.552 1630. austurindia.isCafé Catalina Staying in Kópavogur, lookingfor something off the usual tourist radar,feel like watching some football or kicking offon the (ballroom) dance floor? Next door toReykjavík, local hangout Café Catalina doublesas a restaurant, café, pub and dance hall. For aneasygoing and relaxed bite, this is your place.The menu features Icelandic dishes along withburgers and sandwiches from the grill, perfectwith an Egill’s Gull draft. According to ownerSigrídur Samsonardóttir, the Icelandic meatsoup and fiskibollur fish balls are favoritesamong the many regulars. The dish of the day(1,200 ISK / EUR 7 / USD 9.50 / GBP 6 includingsoup, bread and coffee) is served between11:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. Café Catalina staysopen until 1 a.m. during the week and 3 a.m.on Fridays and Saturdays, with live bands playingmusic to dance the night away to.554 2166. catalina.isThe Center of Puppet Arts CaféBorgarnes’s Center of Puppet Arts Café offersdeliciously wholesome pizzas, salads, sandwichesand pastries, guaranteed to please the entirefamily. Suitable for vegetarians, all courses aremade from the freshest ingredients available,often organic. Moreover, they neither containwhite sugar nor wheat, with spelt and naturalsweeteners such as agave syrup and rawsugar used instead. The coffee is also organic.Located in recently renovated 19th-centurybuildings on the waterfront, honoring theiroriginal style, the café’s atmosphere is friendlyand inviting. Adding to the café’s charm isthe stunning ocean view. Above the spaciouslounge is a loft where children can play andstage puppet performances. Parents can bringtheir refreshments upstairs and watch themplay, or weather permitting, sit on the terraceoverlooking the ocean. bruduheimar.isDill Opened in 2009, Dill restaurant of theNordic House may have just celebrated its firstbirthday, but it already sits atop the mountainas one of the most interesting and excitingrestaurants in town. Led by chef-sommelierduo Gunnar Gislason-Ólafur Ólafsson, it is themodern, local flavors of New Nordic Food thatDill excels in. Everything from the cutlery tothe sommelier’s suit is of Nordic origin; youwon’t even find olive oil in this kitchen. In thedaytime Dill serves relaxed brasserie style lunchand coffee, in the evening there is a 7 courseset fine-dining menu, including champagneand coffee. Fried plaice with the namesakeDill, artichokes with seaweed, smoked haddockand blue mussels, and to finish an almond cakewith cinnamon cream…Is your mouth wateringyet? And what better setting than the NordicHouse, designed by renowned Finnish architectAlvar Aalto and located in the Vatnsmyri plains,the view over downtown Reykjavik is simplybreathtaking. 552 1522. dillrestaurant.isFish Market Take the sophistication of NewYork and pair it with the elegance of Parisand the trendiness of Tokyo, and you have theformula for Fish Market’s unbeatable atmosphere.Match that with its equally spectacularhaute cuisine with an Asian flair and you havethe recipe for a restaurant that’s here to stay.The crown jewel of its kitchen is the ninecoursetasting menu whose highlights includemiso-marinated black cod served with tigerprawns and apricots, king crab with chili andlemongrass, and arguably the most tenderquail on the planet complemented by a delicatebarbeque sauce. The restaurant has alsoearned a well-deserved reputation for its sushiand sashimi, as fresh as it is elegant. Locatedin the heart of downtown, no detail is spared.Tea lights illuminate the soft, rich furnishings,and highlights of bamboo and Asian floracreate a trendy atmosphere to which the city’sglitterati come flocking. Save room for thesorbet: green tea, lychee and blood orange.The perfect scoops are almost too beautiful toeat. 578 8877. fishmarket.isFiskbúdin Hafberg The largest fish shopin Iceland, with its 12 meter long counterdisplaying a full range of local fish—in additionto your staple cod and halibut, there ischar, plaice and other rarer finds—is a sight initself. According to owner Geir Vilhjálmsson,the most common reaction is simply “wow”.For the self-caterer, everything from dried fishto the dark rye bread traditionally served withthe fish stew plokkfiskur is available. After15 years in the fish business, the family runHafberg has now opened a restaurant too.The menu is short and simple, with the mostpopular order being a daily deal with theirfamous fish and lobster soup, dish of the dayand coffee for 1,290 ISK (EUR 7.50 / USD 10 /GBP 6.50). A perfect lunch spot after a strollin the botanical gardens or the Reykjavík zoo,Hafberg also offers take out—if you plan topicnic in the Laugardalur park, fish and chipsmight just be the perfect outdoors lunch. Andwith the fishmongers one wall away from thekitchen, the fish is bound to be fresh.588 8686(Continues on pg. 76) »74 atlantica

.“They put on such a beautiful mealfor us. We had the most amazingfreshest fish I've ever had in my life.It was all so perfectly cooked too...Beautiful!”Jamie Oliver’s DiaryFreshgastronomic creationin Lónkot“gourmet pit stop”Lonely PlanetAuthenticINDIAN cUISINEmeets the best of Iceland’snatural ingredientsFind out why top food experts rate Austur-Indíafjelagið as one of Iceland’s five bestrestaurants. It is probably because of theskillful blending of Indian herbs andspices with the best of local lamb, fishand vegetables. This has given Austur-Indíafjelagið its long standing success.Reservations: 552 1630www.laprimavera.isLónkotLónkot565 Hofsós. Tel: 453-7432Reykjavík·lonkot.comReykjavík·Hverfisgata 56101 Reykjavíkausturindia@austurindia.iswww.austurindia.isINDIAN RESTAURANTLobsterRestaurantLobster buffet 5.900 Ikr.Reservation phone:+354 511 3100www.hafidblaa.is

a icelandSpecial promotionEat, Meat & Fish» (Continued from pg. 74)Fjalakötturinn With a delicious selectionof appetizers (crunchy shredded crab,foamy scallop and fennel broth, and slithersof smoked duck breast with sweet onion pasteand cinnamon toast) to get you started, themellow jazz-infused atmosphere of Fjalakötturinn’sdining room is a warm setting to haveyour taste buds tickled in style. While Fjalakötturinnis by no means a cheap meal, it is fantasticvalue given the care and attention pouredinto each dish by the restaurant’s chefs HaukurGröndal and Gunnar Thór Sigthórsson. And thenew menu is full of delightful surprises, fromthe perfectly textured lobster with lime andcucumber broth, to the astonishing bloodpuddingwith hazelnut puree, to variations onthe classic lamb steak and salmon fillet, to theexcellent venison with carrot crème-brûlée,to the mouth-watering selection of chocolatedeserts (the restaurant’s trademark Chocolatein 6 Different Ways). The palate is constantlysatisfied and surprised, and with a carefullyselected wine list (winner of a Wine SpectatorAward) each dish finds a harmonious accompaniment.This is imaginative, technically flawlessNordic cuisine at its best.514 6060. fjalakotturinn.isFjörubordid Lobster. That’s what thedining experience at Fjörubordid (The Seashore)is all about, where Icelandic lobster,or langoustine, is served delicately grilledand drizzled with melted herb butter and aspritz of lemon. As a starter, its flavor infusesthe delicate creaminess of the lobster soup,the self-proclaimed ‘Best in the Republic ofIceland.’ Although you can also find a tenderlamb filet or vegetable-filled puff pastry on themain course menu, lobster is what makes thisseaside cozy eatery in the village of Stokkseyri,60 kilometers from Reykjavík, so popular withlocals and visitors alike. 483 1550. fjorubordid.isHótel Rangá You could start with the seafoodsoup, laden with chunks of fresh salmon,monkfish and prawns. Maybe you’ll sip someof the hotel’s own-label beer, Hrammur. Thenyou could try Hótel Rangá’s take on the surfand turf, featuring scallops drizzled in lobsteroil and Icelandic mountain lamb. But whateveryou do, leave room for the chocolate and skyrcake, a signature concoction of rich chocolateand velvety skyr-based cheesecake for whichlocals are happy to drive the 100 kilometersfrom Reykjavík to taste. After your gourmetmeal, do like the King of Sweden on his visitand enjoy a drink in one of the hotel’s outdoorhotpots. Then sit back, relax and start planningyour next trip to this luxurious enclave in southIceland. 487 5700. hotelranga.isHumarhúsid From its perch in a historicaltimber house on the hill overlooking bustlingLaekjargata, the haute cuisine kitchen ofHumarhúsid (The Lobster House) brings you itsnamesake in every delectable form: bisque, panfried and grilled. The menu offers up a host ofother local ingredients prepared to highlightdelicate, complex flavors, including arctic char,smoked eel, lamb and reindeer. Enjoy the candlelitdining room decorated with antique furnitureand accent pieces that speak to the house’shistorical provenance. A romantic eveningbegins with a glass of Veuve Clicquot, creamylobster soup, followed by beef confit and thepièce de résistance: the house’s grilled lobstertails on the shell served with drawn garlic butter.Add an extensive wine cellar and sinful pistachiocrème brûlée and it’s clear that Humarhúsidbrings Iceland’s best to the fine dining table.561 3303. humarhusid.isIcelandic Fish & Chips The humble codjust got trendy. Icelandic Fish & Chips, a selfstyled‘organic bistro’ by Reykjavík’s harbor, hasgarnered a loyal following since it opened threeyears ago. It’s obvious what this simple eatery,with both eat-in and take-away service, featureson its menu. But it’s the details that make it sopopular. The fish itself, not just cod but catfish,haddock, plaice or whatever the fisherman hasjust hauled in, is battered in spelt and barleyflour and cooked in canola oil, rich in Omega 3fatty acids. The chips are Maldon-salted wedgesof baked potatoes, cooked in olive oil and herbs.And instead of fat-laden tartar sauce, patronscan choose from a variety of skyronnaises—creamy dips made from Icelandic skyr. Thoseinterested in a larger meal will enjoy both whateverrich soup of the day is on offer (served withspelt bread and hummus), and the whipped skyrand berry dessert, served in a champagne flute.This is healthy, tasty food at a good price in acharming environment. 511 1118. fishandchips.isJómfrúin If Gallup was to poll Reykjavíkiansabout their favorite Danish open-face sandwichrestaurant, Jómfrúin would win hands down.Walk down Laekjargata street at lunch, peekinto Jómfrúin’s windows and see for yourself:the restaurant that is a little touch of Denmarkis packed. “It’s popular because of Iceland’srelationship to Denmark,” says Jakob Jakobsson,the restaurant’s owner, referring to Iceland’s formerstatus as a Danish colony. “We have quickservice, great food, and the location is good.”Don’t take Jakobsson’s word for it. Try it yourself,but make sure to order the ‘H.C. Andersen’:rye bread with crisp bacon, liver pâté, port aspic,horseradish and the ubiquitous butter spreadacross most of Jómfrúin’s open-face sandwiches.551 0100, jomfruin.isLa Primavera “Start with the beef carpaccio,”says Leifur Kolbeinsson, owner and chef ofLa Primavera. “It’s been on the menu since westarted.” An excellent choice, and good to knowthat as the Italian restaurant’s menu evolves, thisold stand-by will remain. When you dine at LaPrimavera, located in the heart of town on Austurstraeti,you can totally rely on their seasonaloffers of the best Icelandic fish and meat availableat any given time. La Primavera’s choice of freshseafood is mouthwatering and their Icelandiclamb is simply adorable. This is an Italian restaurantwith a soul and as good as they get. 5618555. laprimavera.isLava Dominating the Reykjanes peninsula landscapes,Lava provides the name and the decor ofthe restaurant at the Blue Lagoon, the country’smost popular tourist destination. Opened in 2007,Lava Restaurant is built into the side of a cliff,with a striking black lava wall projecting into thestylish, modern setting. A glass staircase leads upto the Lava Bar, perfect for a cocktail, and a rooftopviewing deck provides a beautiful view of thelagoon. As for the menu, Lava offers fresh Icelandicingredients with an international flair. Nearbyfishing village Grindavík provides the kitchenwith the freshest catch, so it’s no wonder thatseafood is the most popular choice among guests.Try Minke Whale with wasabi, ginger and sweetsoya for a starter, continue with pan-fried catfishwith lime and chili, then finish with the signaturedessert of blueberry sorbet, warm chocolate cakeand white chocolate skyr mousse. It may be hardto leave the luxurious soak at the Blue Lagoonspa, but with a menu like this you will feel just aspampered out of the water as in.420 8815. bluelagoon.comLónkot Restaurant and GuesthouseLocated in North Iceland’s idyllic Skagafjördurfjord, feast on Lónkot’s food made from freshingredients, retrieved from the area’s bountifulflora and fauna. Enjoy savory meat, fish orvegetarian dishes enhanced, for example, withwild blueberries, rhubarb, angelica or thyme, accompaniedby a dandelion, weed and sorrel salad.Make sure you don’t miss the piéce de resistance:ice cream made from violets. The self-proclaimedcapricious kitchen does not have a fixed menu,creating a new one each day, built around thefreshest ingredients available. During the summer,the restaurant is open all day, every day of theweek, serving breakfast, lunch, fresh pastry withafternoon coffee and a four-course meal in theevening. Lónkot, which has now operated forapproximately a decade, is a member of the ‘slowfood’ movement, which emphasizes simplicity,freshness and quality, as well as traceability. Whilehonoring Icelandic culinary traditions, Lónkot has,at the same time, a modern touch. lonkot.com a76 atlantica

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aicelandWorld Music in the Heart of TownNear the heart of Reykjavík, where Klapparstígur meets Grettisgata, you find a very unusual musical instrumentshop.World music is becoming increasingly popular as we are exposed to the musical heritage of different cultureslike never before. Sangitamiya – The Nectar Music is a musical instrument store that was establishedin response to this increasing interest in different musical traditions from all corners of the globe. The shophas an amazing variety of musical instruments and presentations of these instruments, as well as learningmaterial about them and the musical traditions to which they belong.The staff are musically trained and offer musical presentations and performances at schools for students ofdifferent ages and for various other occasions, which have been well received.At Sangitamiya all types and families of musical instruments are represented, including wind, string andpercussion instruments. It is well worth the visit. Grettisgata 7, sangitamiya.isFactsaboutIcelandLAND: Iceland is an island of 103,000square kilometers (39,756 square miles) and4,970 kilometers of coastline, making it the16th largest island in the world. Only Madagascar,Britain and Cuba are larger single independentisland states. The country’s highestpeak, Hvannadalshnjúkur, rises 2,110 metersabove sea level. Roughly ten percent of thecountry is covered in glaciers, including Vatnajökull,the largest in Europe. But get herequick before the glaciers melt: Sólheimajökull,an outlet glacier of the Mýrdalsjökull ice cap,south Iceland, is presently retreating at a rateof approximately 100 meters per year.ENERGY: Because of its location on theMid-Atlantic Ridge, Iceland is a hotbed ofvolcanic and geothermal activity: thirty volcanoeshave erupted in the past two centuries.Natural hot water supplies the majority ofthe population with inexpensive, pollutionfreeheating.PEOPLE: Iceland’s population is about313,000, about six percent of which are foreignborn.It’s growing at a rate of 2.6 percent peryear. Only 2 percent of Icelanders live in ruralareas, the rest live in urban areas, and the majority,about 75 percent, live in the capital area ofReykjavík. But Iceland’s population more thandoubles every year thanks to the more than500,000 travelers who visit the country annually.TIME: Despite its mid-Atlantic location,Iceland observes Greenwich Mean Time yearround.HISTORY: It is believed that the first permanentsettler in Iceland was Ingólfur Arnarson, aNorwegian Viking who settled in A.D. 874 andnamed his home Reykjavík (smoky bay) afterthe steam rising from the surrounding countryside.In 930, Icelanders founded Althingi, whichstill functions as the legislative body, making itthe world’s oldest parliament. In 1262, Icelandlost its independence to Norway and in 1380came under Danish control with Norway. On17 June 1944, Iceland became independent ofDenmark in a ceremony that took place atThingvellir, the old site of Althingi, now aUNESCO World Heritage Site.GOVERNMENT: The country is governed byAlthingi (parliament), which sits in Reykjavík,whose members are elected every four years.The President is also elected every four years,but the Prime Minister is primarily responsiblefor the day-to-day politics. Jóhanna Sigurdardóttiris Iceland’s current PM (2009) and ÓlafurRagnar Grímsson (1996) is serving his third termas president.LANGUAGE: Icelanders are of Norse and Celticancestry, and have lived for more than a millenniumfar away from other countries, which hasprovided geneticists with a key body of DNA. Thelanguage, Icelandic, is close to that of literature(the Sagas) in the 12th century. Most people canalso speak English. Icelanders maintain a patronymicnaming system, which means that someone’sfirst name is followed by his or her father’sname and the suffix ‘son’ or ‘dóttir’. For example,Kolbrún Pálsdóttir is Kolbrún, the daughter ofPáll.CHURCH: Church and state are not separatedin Iceland. The National Church of Iceland, aLutheran body, is the state church to which 82 percentof Icelanders belong. There is, however, oneRoman Catholic cathedral in Reykjavík to servethe just over 2 percent Catholic population.ECONOMY: Iceland’s GDP per capita is USD45,000. Aside from fishing and fisheries products,the country’s other main export is aluminum,while primary imports include machinery andequipment, petroleum products, and food andtextiles. Less than one percent of the land is arable(most is used for grazing) and between one andtwo percent of Iceland’s population is engagedin agriculture. Iceland produces vegetables, meat,fish and dairy, but imports other foodstuffs. Iceland’scurrency is the Icelandic Króna (ISK).HEALTH: Life expectancy for women is 83.0years and 79.4 for men, one of the highest in theworld. a80 atlantica

TELL US YOUR STORYAND YOU COULD WINA FLIGHT BACK TO ICELANDIceland is more awake than ever. Shareyour stories and you could win a flight backto visit us again. How has Iceland inspiredyou? Was it the nature, music, adventureor just the peace and quiet?Visit InspiredbyIceland.com and tell us your story.ÍSLENSKA SIA.IS IBI 50154 06.2010