Frommer's Scotland 8th Edition - To Parent Directory

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The Best of Scotland1Scotland is permeated with legend and romance. Its ruined castles standingamid fields of heather and bracken speak of a past full of heroism and struggleand events that still ring across the centuries. Its two great cities—the ancientseat of Scottish royalty, Edinburgh, and even more ancient Glasgow, boastingVictorian splendor—are among Europe’s most dynamic centers. Equally asthrilling is the country’s awesomely beautiful outdoors, with Highlands, mountains,lochs, salmon-filled rivers, incomparable golf courses, and so much more.1 The Best Travel Experiences• Checking Out the Local Pub:You’re in a Scottish pub, talking tothe bartender and choosing from adizzying array of single-maltwhiskies. Perhaps the wind isblowing fitfully outside, causingthe wooden sign to creak abovethe battered door, and a fire isflickering against the blackenedbricks of the old fireplace. As theevening wanes and you’ve establishedcommon ground with thelocals, you’ll realize you’re havingone of your most authentic Scottishexperiences. We list ourfavorite pubs in the destinationchapters that follow.• Visiting Edinburgh at FestivalTime: The Edinburgh InternationalFestival has become one ofEurope’s most prestigious arts festivals.During 3 weeks in August,a host of performers descends onthe city, infusing it with a kind ofmanic creative energy. If you’replanning to sample the manyofferings, get your tickets well inadvance, and make your hotel andflight reservations early. Call& 0131/225-1188 or go to www.eif.co.uk to check schedules andpurchase tickets. See “SpecialEvents & Festivals” in chapter 4.• Haunting the Castles: The landof Macbeth numbers more castlesthan anywhere else in the world.Many are in evocative ruins, butdozens of the foreboding royaldwellings are intact and open tothe public. Some of these castles,such as Culzean (p. 206), built byRobert Adam, are architecturalmasterpieces filled with paintingsand antiques. Travelers who can’tget enough of Scotland’s castlesshould consider booking a nightor two in one of the many relicsthat have been converted intocomfortable, although sometimesdrafty, hotels.• Horseback Trekking Throughthe Highlands & Argyll: There’snothing like riding a sturdy ponythrough the Highlands’ fragrantheather and over its lichen-coveredrocks. One of Scotland’sbiggest stables is the HighlandRiding Centre, Drumnadrochit(& 01456/450-220); see “AlongLoch Ness” in chapter 10. For scenicequestrian treks across themoors, Highlands, and headlands
INNERHEBRIDES4CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SCOTLANDScotlandORKNEYISLANDS(see inset)040 miShetland Islands(see inset)The Orkney IslandsWestrayPAPA WESTRYPapaWestrayNorthRonaldsayN060 kmTarbertRodelLochmaddyDaliburghCollPort of NessStornowayUigPortreeTobermoryBroadfordArdvasarLaideKyle of LochalshMallaigA830GlenfinnanKinlochberrieLochinverPooleweLochcarronDornieUllapoolA835A82A828A82A87 A887InvergarryFort WilliamOnichDurnessLairgStrathpefferBeaulyMuir of OrdInvermoristonSpeanBridgeTongueA9A96Fort AugustusA9InvernessThursoDornachFindhornForresNairnAviemoreKingussieNewtonmoreBlair AthollPitlochryBallachulish Aberfeldy DunkeldA882A9A99HelmsdaleLossiemouthElginRothesDufftownA93John o’ GroatsA94WickOUTERHEBRIDESNorth MinchLEWISMoray FirthNorth UistBenbeculaSouth UistBarraHarrisRhumMuckSKYERassayEiggBlack IslePeninsulaA96Grantown-on-SpeyCarrbridgeBraemar BallaterKirriemuirGlamisHuntlyMacduffA98A92A92MontroseArbroathFraserburghNORTHWEST HIGHLANDSA952HIGHLANDSLoch NessSea of theHebrides GRAMPIANBroughHeadA967HoyStromaBirsayAberdeenBanchoryStonehavenFlottaA966ScapaFlowRousayMAINLANDStromness KirkwallA964A961WyreGairsayJohn o’ GroatsEday SandayEgilsayShapinsayA960BurraySt. Margaret’sHopeSouthRonaldsay0n Mp i a.t sa mNorthSeaCopinsayStronsay10 miPentland FirthN0 16 kmG r
Page 4 and 5: ContentsList of MapsviiWhat’s New
Page 6 and 7: CONTENTSv8Fife & the Central Highla
Page 8 and 9: List of MapsScotland 4Scotland’s
Page 12 and 13: What’s New in ScotlandVisitors ju
Page 16 and 17: THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES 5The Sh
Page 18 and 19: THE BEST FISHING 7primordial seas,
Page 20 and 21: THE BEST BIKE RIDES 9Stream, contai
Page 22 and 23: THE BEST CASTLES & PALACES 11• Th
Page 24 and 25: THE BEST RUINS 13Scotland’s only
Page 26 and 27: THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS 15restaurant
Page 28 and 29: THE BEST PUBS 17nearby hills of hea
Page 30 and 31: THE BEST SHOPPING 19advice from the
Page 32 and 33: THE REGIONS IN BRIEF 21GLASGOW & TH
Page 34 and 35: VISITOR INFORMATION 23called the
Page 36 and 37: ENTRY REQUIREMENTS & CUSTOMS 25WHAT
Page 38 and 39: MONEY 27Tips Small ChangeWhen you c
Page 40 and 41: SCOTLAND CALENDAR OF EVENTS 29most
Page 42 and 43: SCOTLAND CALENDAR OF EVENTS 31perfo
Page 44 and 45: HEALTH & SAFETY 33cruise line is on
Page 46 and 47: SPECIALIZED TRAVEL RESOURCES 35and
Page 48 and 49: SPECIALIZED TRAVEL RESOURCES 37givi
Page 50 and 51: THE 21ST-CENTURY TRAVELER 39Frommer
Page 52 and 53: THE 21ST-CENTURY TRAVELER 41GSM (Gl
Page 54 and 55: GETTING THERE 43Vancouver, Montreal
Page 56 and 57: GETTING THERE 45Stirling, Aviemore,
Page 58 and 59: GETTING AROUND SCOTLAND 47standard
Page 60 and 61: GETTING AROUND SCOTLAND 49Tips Eura
Page 62 and 63: GETTING AROUND SCOTLAND 51and disco
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RECOMMENDED BOOKS 53HISTORY Scotlan
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FAST FACTS: SCOTLAND 55Emergencies
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FAST FACTS: SCOTLAND 57The departur
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The Active Vacation Planner3If you
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Note: Nos. 5, 6, 12, and 15represen
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TEEING OFF: GOLFING IN SCOTLAND 63A
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BIKING, WALKING & OTHER OUTDOOR PUR
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0CRAMOND0 1 km CLERMISTONSt.A70John
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THE NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 73Marchm
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FAST FACTS: EDINBURGH75west end of
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WHERE TO STAY77off A8 on Edinburgh
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36To Leith37 38Brunswick RoadEast L
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WHERE TO STAY 81chapter). Service i
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WHERE TO STAY 83up-and-coming neigh
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WHERE TO STAY 85KidsFamily-Friendly
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WHERE TO STAY 87BRUNTSFIELDEXPENSIV
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WHERE TO DINE 89fennel. The dessert
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WHERE TO DINE 91Pompadour Restauran
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WHERE TO DINE 93In the Museum of Sc
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EXPLORING THE CITY 95tomatoes or th
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East London St.Annandale St. St.Uni
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EXPLORING THE CITY 99Frommer’s Fa
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EXPLORING THE CITY 101The People’
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EXPLORING THE CITY 103natural histo
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EXPLORING THE CITY 105ADDITIONAL AT
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EXPLORING THE CITY 107The “Parthe
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SPECIAL EVENTS & FESTIVALS 1096 Spe
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SHOPPING 111Edinburgh. Clubs go for
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SHOPPING 113DOLLSDoll Hospital (Ger
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SHOPPING 115world and maintains a t
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EDINBURGH AFTER DARK 117The residen
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SIDE TRIPS FROM EDINBURGH 119time,
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h9Side Trips from EdinburghA198Dirl
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SIDE TRIPS FROM EDINBURGH 1234 Law
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SIDE TRIPS FROM EDINBURGH 125Main S
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TheMacharsThe Borders & Galloway Re
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JEDBURGH: GATEWAY TO THE BORDERS 12
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JEDBURGH: GATEWAY TO THE BORDERS 13
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KELSO: ABBEY RUINS & ADAM ARCHITECT
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KELSO: ABBEY RUINS & ADAM ARCHITECT
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of the church itself, except a few
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MELROSE 139A Walk Along the Borders
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SELKIRK: AT THE HEART OF SCOTT COUN
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Driving from Edinburgh, head southe
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PEEBLES 145Kailzie Gardens These 6.
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Its windows overlook a pleasant gar
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MOFFAT 149Beechwood Country House H
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DUMFRIES: AN ODE TO BURNS 151wife,
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DUMFRIES: AN ODE TO BURNS 153handso
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CASTLE DOUGLAS 155VISITOR INFORMATI
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air of elegance. Chef Tony Borthwic
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PORTPATRICK: WHERE THE SOUTHERN UPL
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Glasgow & the StrathclydeRegion6Gla
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Greater GlasgowA737M8JOHNSTONEA82Er
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THE NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 165Tips
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GETTING AROUND 167Street (call & 01
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WHERE TO STAY 169Pharmacies The bes
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Garscube Rd.St. Georges Rd.Craighal
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WHERE TO STAY 173of Glasgow in any
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WHERE TO STAY 1751 Devonshire Garde
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WHERE TO DINE 177front door will be
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WHERE TO DINE 179KidsFamily-Friendl
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WHERE TO DINE 181tomato-basil sauce
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SEEING THE SIGHTS 183naturally Punj
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Garscube Rd.NewCityRd.St. Georges R
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SEEING THE SIGHTS 187city. It’s n
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SEEING THE SIGHTS 189reconstruction
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SPECIAL EVENTS 191spectacular orchi
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SHOPPING 193from 9am to 10pm, and S
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SHOPPING 195A DEPARTMENT STOREFrase
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GLASGOW AFTER DARK 197center is fun
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THE BEST OF THE STRATHCLYDE REGION
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Side Trips from GlasgowDunoonGouroc
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COLLCalgaryA828CrossapolCalgary Bay
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LaggCastle SweenKeillmoreEilean Mor
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THE ISLE OF ARRAN: SCOTLAND IN MINI
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THE KINTYRE PENINSULA 217The Home F
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THE KINTYRE PENINSULA 219modestly f
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THE ISLE OF GIGHA & SCOTLAND’S FI
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THE ISLE OF ISLAY: QUEEN OF THE HEB
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THE ISLE OF ISLAY: QUEEN OF THE HEB
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The square tower of Claig Castle, n
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INVERARAY 229(5 miles) south from t
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LOCH AWE: SCOTLAND’S LONGEST LOCH
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OBAN: GATEWAY TO MULL & THE INNER H
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8Fife & the Central HighlandsNorth
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The Kingdom of FifeBracoDunblaneSti
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DUNFERMLINE & ITS GREAT ABBEY 243fo
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EAST NEUK’S SCENIC FISHING VILLAG
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EAST NEUK’S SCENIC FISHING VILLAG
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ST. ANDREWS: THE BIRTHPLACE OF GOLF
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fresh asparagus and butter sauce; a
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Stirling, Loch Lomond & the Trossac
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STIRLING 261which makes for a peace
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STIRLING 263The cozy rooms are pain
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DUNBLANE & ITS GRAND CATHEDRAL 265o
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CALLANDER & A TRIO OF LOCHS 267You
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ABERFOYLE: GATEWAY TO THE TROSSACHS
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ON THE BONNIE, BONNIE BANKS OF LOCH
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ON THE BONNIE, BONNIE BANKS OF LOCH
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9Aberdeen & the Tayside& Grampian R
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The Tayside & Grampian RegionsA831M
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Aberdeen0Leslie Rd.Clifton Rd.Great
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ABERDEEN: THE CASTLE COUNTRY 281161
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ABERDEEN: THE CASTLE COUNTRY 283S.
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ABERDEEN: THE CASTLE COUNTRY 285for
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PERTH: GATEWAY TO THE HIGHLANDS & S
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GLENEAGLES: HITTING THE LINKS 293of
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CRIEFF & DRUMMOND CASTLE GARDENS 29
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DUNKELD 297Street and Cathedral Str
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PITLOCHRY 299VISITOR INFORMATION Th
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PITLOCHRY 301which might be wild ve
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DUNDEE & GLAMIS CASTLE 303explore a
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DUNDEE & GLAMIS CASTLE 305or a cass
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BALLATER & BALMORAL CASTLE 307genui
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BALLATER & BALMORAL CASTLE 309comfo
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BRAEMAR 311to 6pm; July and August
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Speyside & The Malt Whisky TrailA82
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SPEYSIDE & THE MALT WHISKY TRAIL 31
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Inverness & the West Highlands10The
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The West HighlandsA87BroadfordKyle
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FORT WILLIAM: GATEWAY TO BEN NEVIS
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WHERE TO STAY & DINEGlengarry Castl
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AVIEMORE 333Corrour House Hotel Fin
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ALONG LOCH NESS 335Spotting NessieS
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INVERNESS: CAPITAL OF THE HIGHLANDS
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St.BenulaRd.MerkinchPrimarySchoolAb
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NAIRN & CAWDOR CASTLE 347Scottish c
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NAIRN AFTER DARKLocals gather to dr
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The Far NorthPentland FirthSummerIs
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SUTHERLAND: THE GEM OF SCOTLAND 353
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CAITHNESS: UNSPOILED COUNTRY 355Wes
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CAITHNESS: UNSPOILED COUNTRY 357JOH
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CAITHNESS: UNSPOILED COUNTRY 359isl
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The Hebridean Islands11Once the Heb
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T H E O U T E RCOLLArinagourT H E I
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THE ISLE OF SKYE: STAR OF THE HEBRI
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Ferry toLochmaddyVaternish PointBen
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shearwaters that live on the island
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WHERE TO STAY & DINEPort Mhor House
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Kirkatol, Isle of Tyree PA77 6TW.&
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MULL 381CRAIGNUREEven passengers wh
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MULL 383Street (& 01688/302-336), c
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IONA & STAFFA: AN ABBEY & A MUSICAL
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IONA & STAFFA: AN ABBEY & A MUSICAL
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LEWIS: ISLAND OF HEATHER 389informa
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LEWIS: ISLAND OF HEATHER 391Newmark
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HARRIS 393of West Loch Tarbert, wit
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NORTH & SOUTH UIST 395North Uist is
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NORTH & SOUTH UIST 397according to
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BARRA: GARDEN OF THE HEBRIDES 399la
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The Orkney Islands010 mi0 16 kmNAir
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THE ORKNEY ISLANDS: AN ARCHAEOLOGIC
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THE SHETLAND ISLANDS: A LAND OF STA
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00020 mi20 kmArea ofdetailSCOTLANDE
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Appendix:Scotland in DepthA small n
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HISTORY 101 433Irish called Scots,
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HISTORY 101 435Scotland’s indepen
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HISTORY 101 437king. The Scots even
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HISTORY 101 439shrewdness, and cons
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A PORTRAIT OF THE SCOTS 441is in di
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A PORTRAIT OF THE SCOTS 443gait str
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A TASTE OF SCOTLAND 445when she and
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A TASTE OF SCOTLAND 447ImpressionsD
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Scottish National Gallery ofModern
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Culross Palace, 243Culzean Castle (
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Edinburgh, 3, 70-125accommodations,
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Perth, 290Wick, 356Glen Alva Ltd. (
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Kelso Abbey, 132-133Kelvingrove Par
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New Course (St. Andrews),250Newhave
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Lennox Castle (Inchmurrin),271-272L
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Tigh Talamhanta (Barra), 399Time zo
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HIT THE ROAD WITHFROMMER’S DRIVIN
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FROMMER’S ® COMPLETE TRAVEL GUID
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AOL Keyword:TravelBooked aisle seat
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