people inside. We endured a different but no less annoying kind of hell! Mybrother and I are close but not THAT close. In less than 30 seconds the tentwas transformed into a steaming sauna. We just lay there in pools of our ownsweat, trying not to touch each other and swearing quietly. Meanwhile Bartsnored like an amplified epileptic orangutan in the tent next to us.It may be true that in extreme adversity, men pull together and show theirtrue spirit, but not that night! We pulled the fly off to let in some air, wereeaten alive, and grunted monosyllabic insults at each other in our mozzieinfestedcocoon.The next day started slowly and irritably. 24-hour monkeys watched withinterest from the trees above our camp. Bart, whose nocturnal rumblingshad kept us awake for most of the night, said “I didn’t sleep very well lastnight!” After coffee and ciggies we all felt more human and ‘Bart’s CrazySafari’ (his expression) continued.Overnight, the river had risen a couple of metres and picked up speed. LuckilyBart had checked the kayaks during the night and pulled them further upthe bank, so his night-time noises were forgiven!We ate lunch at Bilit, a little village, and went on to a luxury rainforest lodge.We asked if they had a local map. Looking at it we discovered that we hadpaddled 80kms in the past day and a half! To celebrate we stayed the nightand had hot showers, cold beers and steak and chips for tea!!We set off the next day fully rested and with newfound energy. We stoppedfor lunch and a walk around Sukau village. We returned to find James’ kayakhad sunk and was stuck in the mud. We were lucky that it hadn’t drifted away.By this time J & B were now used to the idiosyncrasies of their kayaks.Paddling on we saw bearded pigs, loads of monkeys, a 2m long croc and giantlizards bathing in the afternoon sun.Not fancying another night in the tents (James still had suppurating welts allover his body from the first night, plus mental scarring!) we decided to staywith the workers in one of the oil palm plantations by the river. We endedup staying with a Phillippino immigrant called Santos in his section of theplantation workers’ longhouse. 1000’s of Kms from his family he was workingas a truck driver. We chatted with him and he shared his fresh river prawnsand rice.The next morning’s 2 hour paddle to Abai was to be our last on the river. Weleft most of our food with Santos as a small gesture of thanks for his amazinghospitality (I wonder what he made of stripy peanut butter and crackers?)Unfortunately the river had slowed considerably since the day before andby lunchtime (4 hours paddling!) we still hadn’t reached the village. We atethe last of the crackers and some cheese by a small tributary wonderingwhere the bloody village was. Bart exclaimed “it’s round the next bendha ha ha!”And it was!!At Abai we were informed that our lunch spot was inhabited by a 20ft crocand that no locals go there in small boats for fear of being eaten!We had made it. 150kms in 4 days, braving giant crocs, hordes of voraciouskiller mozzies, hitchhiking ants, fibreglass botties and head-hunters (alrightwe hadn’t seen any but we KNEW they were there!). J&B had probablypaddled twice the distance due to their interestingly designed kayaks.The next 2 weeks were spent on a different kind of ‘Crazy Safari’, travellinground Borneo with our parents! It was wicked to discover Sabah again withmy family and say hello to pygmy elephants, orangutans, swiflet caves andtropical islands which make up this incredible part of SE Asia.Now I am in Kota Kinabalu waiting for a plane to take me back to Thailandand on to the next river adventure: Delhi and the holy Ganges throughN India.Editors note - Through his journeys Kelvin is attempting to raise money andawareness for the ‘Save the Children” fund to help their projects around theworld. www.savethechildren.org.nzAdventure Philosophy to attemptcircumnavigation of South Georgia Island.Graham Charles, Mark Jones and Marcus Waters are heading south againto attempt the circumnavigation of South Georgia Island. Locatedapproximately 1,300 Km East-South-East of the Falkland Islands, SouthGeorgia is situated at the same latitude as Cape Horn in the furious fiftiesand it is little surprise that the southwest coast has not been kayaked.With 161 glaciers slithering off South Georgia’s flanks the PaddlingPerfection Sea Bears, that will be taken for the journey, have beenreinforced to deal with bashing through miles of brash-ice, and for theviolent surf landings the team expects to face. The completecircumnavigation will entail 600kms of kayaking along some of the mosthostile coastline in the world, remarkable for an incredible abundanceof wildlife. The latter will pose problems for the team as they land andcompete for tent space on a beach crammed with aggressivefur seals!Their story so far:Adventure Philosophy had its beginnings in a dream to sea kayak alongthe Antarctic Peninsula in early 2001. Logistically complex and withoutboat support it was a bold undertaking. In keeping with their ideal ofpromoting adventure through inspiration the trio have developed areputation for returning with and producing quality media.TV3’s 20/20 made a 20min documentary of this achievement.‘Colder Than Ice’, a 46 min documentary made in the USA, has screenedaround the world.‘The Frozen Coast’ a 120 page full colour book was published by CraigPotton Publishing.In January and February 2003 the Adventure Philosophy team completedanother world first expedition, in the southern Andes. Approaching theDarwin ice cap by sea kayak for 400km, they then negotiated difficultglaciated mountain terrain and horrendous Fuegan weather to forge anew route through the Darwin Cordillera back to the Beagle Channel. Thistraverse had never been attempted before or since.‘Buried in a Blizzard’, a 24 minute documentary was produced by CreativeTouch Films, and has screened around the world. Even in NZ.Adventure Philosophy believe outdoor adventure is more than justadrenaline and thrills. It is a vital human development medium for thosewho have been fortunate enough to be touched by it. “We have a richadventure heritage in NZ and there is some fantastic stuff going on hereand on the adventure world stage by New Zealanders. We want to seethat reflected in the mainstream media to keep our adventure heritagealive”This philosophy has been translated into action through the ‘Good ForLife’ scholarship launched in 2000. Now known as the ‘Goretex Good ForLife Scholarship’ this is available to young New Zealanders to pursue theirown adventure dreams. The driving objective of the scholarship is topromote adventurous qualities in young New Zealanders. To find outmore visit www.adventurephilosophy.com10 ISSUE THIRTYtwo • 2005
WHITEWATER KAYAKINGMy First Time Over Huka Fallsby Michael BurdenThis summer a lot of my friends had run Huka and had kepton at me that “it was easy” and “you could do it easily”.Living in Taupo I look at the falls all the time so I know theline, right flows, and the moves.I am also aware of the consequences. It’s like any kayaking; a good paddlermakes the hardest of lines look easy and attainable by anyone. This can be afatal misconception. Good paddlers get thrashed in either of the four drops.Every year people are pulled up the walls of the gorge by their mates or otherkayakers. Every year at least one person swims over the falls, and swimmingout of the base happens often - any swim in this area could result inuncomfortable periods of time without oxygen.All of these things are constantly in my mind as I say to myself that tomorrow,if the flow is right, I will just have to get it over and done with and do it for thefirst time (the first time is always the worst).I got back early from the Mohaka. Colin was waiting at the shop looking forsomeone to paddle the falls with. The sun was shining and everything feltright so off we went. All the way to the river I’m nervous, talking, analysingmy own fear; kind of felt like watching a laboratory rat trying to escapeimpending doom.One last look to confirm the flows right then start to get ready. Feeling reallynervous, nervous vomit in the bushes. Just doing things automatically now -get changed - everything out of the kayak I won’t need, all I need is a throwbag and airbags. One last check of my gear as I push off into the river - helmet- pfd - spray deck - bung.Practise rolls on both sides and then eddy hop down to Colin. His final wordsof advice “Boof everything”. I watch Colin’s line and pull out making eachstroke count, timing it all for the last stroke and boof. It is big, white andpowerful as I drop into the smallest of the drops. I am pushed left and keeppaddling for the next boof. Everything looks higher when you are on the lipof the drop, soft landing, looking for my next eddy on river right, dodging theboils off the wall and the muchy hole at the top, I carve into the eddy.Breathing heavy - one drop done, three more to go.I cannot see much from the eddy I am in but I know the move well enough. Ipeel out and into some waves heading left - everything is bigger at river levelthan it looks from above - paddling hard heading left, timing it all for the laststroke, soft landing. Paddling into the eddy Colin tells me to relax, breathe,count to 10. I guess I looked pretty excited! Two down, two to go.I take the chance to look around. It’s cool being down in the depths of thegorge, not aware of the people on the bridge above at all. It sounds all peacefulbut in reality the eddy is boiling and there is a bit of wall action as well.Enough of the reverie. Here we go down the tongue of the ‘pencil sharpener’.I take a different line to Colin, preferring to play with the big white stuff thanthe recirculating eddy on the left.Now it gets interesting (all these things are happening with the ever apparenthorizon line getting closer all the time). Colin’s RAD is a lot slower than myMAC so once through the ‘pencil sharpener’ I have closed up with him. Wehead left for the final move. I am catching him up all the way. He then stallson a diagonal at the top of the ramp and by the time he goes off the edge Iam only three metres behind him. My last thought as I go over the lip is “Ihope I don’t hit him, it will hurt us both.”I have a couple of goes at rolling but give up. Get out of my boat, washed upinto an eddy, get back in and paddle about for a bit below the falls.Yes, I know I swam, still for my first attempt I am feeling higher than any drugcould take you. It took about four or five days to wipe the smile off my face.I will do it again when the flows are right and I am feeling right. It is still andalways will be a drop that is a challenge mentally, emotionally, and physically.ISSUE THIRTYtwo • 2005 11