Tasmanian Fish Frenzy by Jeff SigafoosPhotographs by Vanessa A. GreenEarly on a December morning my wife, Vanessa, and I hadcome south from Hobart to kayak Cockle Creek, a gin-clearstream which flows into Recherché Bay on the easternboundary of Tasmania’s vast Southwest National Park.The road ended and the wilderness began when our truckrumbled over the last rickety bridge. Eager to explore, Iignored its anguished creaking, though it bode ill for thereturn journey.Edging our kayaks into Cockle Creek, the rapidly rising tide jerked us intothe main channel. Then the threatened dumping turned into a fast passagewith little for us to do except steer. Rounding the first bend, 100 metresfrom the protesting bridge, and seemingly miles from civilization, threeducks ‘exploded’ from a calm bay. On the far bank black swans movedcautiously and something furry thumped up the near bank and vanishedinto the bush. Ten minutes later we spotted a cosybeach which would do nicely for a warm middayswim and lunch.There was no wind, the air was crisp and in spite ofthe swift current, the water appeared glassy. I begantrolling for Eastern Australian Salmon, (Kahawai inNew Zealand). Boat speed was ideal, the fly trailednicely and the rod was secure but easily accessibleunder the deck bungee. In glorious weather I staredat the fly line looking for the slightest twitch, waitingfor the big one to strike. “Any second now”………“Any second now”. Nothing. Nothing at all.The creek broadened amidst open tussock andrushes, providing good cover for the ducks wehad spooked, and the tidal flow had stopped.Paddling upstream into ever shallower water becameincreasingly arduous and bumpy. When we passedthe remains of a bridge, six semi submerged pillars,we turned back.Then it happened, from a school of fish an epic battlebetween man and one 2 inch whitebait. It lasted 3seconds. Since salmon eat whitebait it was good toknow that their breakfast was to hand, but there wereno salmon here. I let the little guy go and stopped trolling.The sun was high when we reached our beach; time to slap on SPF40, eat lunchand swim. Vanessa was bravely in first. “Invigorating!”She declared as sheshowed off her goose bumps. But we got to like it and lingered while the tidalflow reversed. While we dried, flotsam began speeding past, and we realizedthat we had to go to avoid stranding.Vanessa reached open water without incident, but I shared a sandbar withseveral hundred tiny reddish-orange crabs. I bounced up and down in myseat, pushing, struggling to get off before I was eaten, while Vanessa beachedon the beautiful crescent of white sand of Recherché Bay’s northeast shore.Uninjured, but much put about and short of breath, I joined her.The view improved my temper. The wide bay, fringed with mountains, wascalm despite a southerly breeze. We paddled towards a rocky point abouta kilometre away, past the bronze statue of a Southern Right Whale. It is amemorial to whaling and sealing, once a substantial local industry whichsupported a hotel’s roaring trade until the1850s.Now in ruins the hotel isLanding an Australian Salmon.8 <strong>ISSUE</strong> FORTYfive • 2 0 0 8
visited by hikers on a coastal track. A couple, theonly people we saw all day, waved to us across20 metres of clear water which, back then, wouldhave been red!We paddled on past numerous small bays,disturbing dozens of sting rays with our shadows.They took off in puffs of sand and, looking formore, I became mesmerized by the beauty oftheir undersea world.At 6.30pm we turned for home in somethingof a hurry. Driving at night amongst nocturnalmarsupials would take me 4 or 5 hours to coverwhat, by day, takes 3.We sprinted for our beach, had a quick swim andwhile drying off I spotted a commotion 5 metresoffshore.“Did you see that?” Vanessa hadn’t. Then ithappened again, a large school of whitebaitunder attack from a large school of salmon. Iwalked my kayak to the water and slipped in, notbothering with the spray skirt. Immediately thecommotion was repeated 5 or 6 metres ahead. Flyrod ready, I cast behind me and with two or threepaddle strokes headed into the whitebait schoolat a good clip. Paddle at rest, fly rod gripped, Ihooked and released my first real fish of the day.The school moved to the right and I followed,hooked and released another salmon.Vanessa took over direction, pointing to myleft. “Over there!”Stalk and drift worked verywell. Most fish were pretty small; perhaps300 grams, but some were half a kilo. WhenVanessa shouted, “It’s nearly 8”, I had caughtand released 34 in 2 hours. No trophies butmarvellous fun!We loaded the truck. Made it across the bridgeand in gathering gloom I failed to see a wallabyon the edge of the gravel road. Fortunately itsaw me. Now on red alert I rarely topped 40 kph,Vanessa looked left and I looked right. Wallabieswere everywhere .They moved, but numerouspossums refused to budge. We had to stop andchase them off the road. Proud to have inflictedno marsupial injuries it was close to midnightwhen we reached our drive.Recherché Bay at Cockle Creek is, I believe,Tasmania’s premier kayaking area. And on theright day the fishing isn’t bad.The happy anglerTui ExcelA versatile, go anywhere kayakPenguinA tried and true winner thatdelivers affordable excellenceTasman ExpressAn exceptional performancesea kayakDusky Bay ClassicLeisurely cruise, open waters, or akayaking adventureA tried and true design just got betterFor information on our complete range and stockist,visit www.q-kayaks.co.nz or phone 06 326 8667<strong>ISSUE</strong> FORTYfive • 2008 9