4 Highlands and MorayIt is one of the mostimportant poems of thetwentieth century andvisiting the place can helpyou understand its qualitiesof haunting, loss andaffirmation: ‘the deadhave been seen alive.’1014ISLE OF RAASAYSorley MacLean’s poem ‘Hallaig’ evokes the cleared township of that name and is engravedon a monument overlooking this spot. It is one of the most important poems of the twentiethcentury and visiting the place can help you understand its qualities of haunting, loss andaffirmation: ‘the dead have been seen alive.’Above Looking over to Raasay and Skye from the Pass of the Cattle.
15ISLE OF SKYE, BRAESThe home of Sorley MacLean and his wifeRené was at 6 Penniechorrain, Braes, and onthe hill to the right of the road on the wayto the small cluster of houses there, there isa monument to the Battle of the Braes, withwords by MacLean, commemorating theconfrontation in the 1880s, that began thereclaiming of land rights for the crofters inthe face of absentee landowners. The greatpoet of the crofters’ battle for land rightswas Mary Macpherson, known as MairiMhor nan Oran, Big Mary of the Songs,partly because of the magnitude of her voice,vision and moral authority, partly becauseof her girth. The great mountain range ofSkye is the Cuillins: Hugh MacDiarmiddescribes himself in his poem ‘DireadhIII’ (published in his 1943 autobiography,Lucky Poet) sitting on the summit of one ofthem, Sgurr Alasdair, lighting his pipe andHighlands and Morayconcluding that the Inaccessible Pinnacle –among the highest points of the range – ‘isnot inaccessible’: in other words, the highestambition needs to be encouraged if <strong>Scotland</strong>and the people of <strong>Scotland</strong> are to fulfil theirpotential. In his long poem-sequence, ‘TheCuillin’ (1939), Sorley MacLean evokes themountains as a physical reality he climbedand knew intimately, but also as a permanentsymbol of hope and aspiration, rising abovethe European threat of Fascism he felt whenhe wrote the poem, but also, beyond theinnumerable tragedies and human failures ofhistory, including the Highland Clearances,rising ‘on the other side of sorrow’. JamesHunter’s book, On the Other Side of Sorrow(1995) takes a broad survey of poets andwriters on the Highland Clearances, writingin Gaelic, Scots and English.16 strathnaver looking around as if over all of <strong>Scotland</strong>, and4This is one of the most beautiful and saddestvalleys in the world. Its emptiness is ladenwith the sense of missing people, morethan a century after their evictions. DonaldMacLeod describes what happened inhis memoir of the Highland Clearances,Gloomy Memories (1857), the title an ironicreference to the American author HarrietBeecher Stowe’s Sunny Memories of ForeignLands (1854), MacLeod contrasting theconditions Stowe enjoyed as a guest of theDuke and Duchess of Sutherland at thelavish Dunrobin Castle which can be seennearby. The landowners’ factor Patrick Sellaris vilified in memory for his brutality andhypocrisy. The Clearances are central in thenovels Butcher’s Broom (1934) by Neil Gunn,And the Cock Crew (1945) by Fionn MacColla and Consider the Lilies (1968) by IainCrichton Smith and in Crichton Smith’spoem ‘Clearances’, in Norman MacCaig’spoems ‘A Man in Assynt’ and ‘Two Thieves’,and in John McGrath and the 7:84 TheatreCompany’s play, The Cheviot, the Stag and theBlack, Black Oil (1973).11
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