Belize Featured In United Airlines Inflight Magazine ... - Belize Yellow

REACHING THE HEIGHTSThe view from Caana, Belize’stallest structure, located at theMayan historical site CaracolTHREE PERFECT DAYSBELIZE91DAY ONEBreakfast at Coppola’s andlunch with the ancientMayans (and a vociferoushowler monkey)95DAY TWODriving the HummingbirdHighway in search ofthe jaguar, and ending upin a beach paradise96DAY THREEExploring the reefs,swimming with mildlyannoyed sea turtles,and being bested by localsA mecca for hard-core scubadivers and laid-back beach types,this tiny Central Americancountry on the Caribbean haseven more to offer—vast ancientruins, stunning native crasand a wealth of exotic flora andfauna—for those whoventure off the beaten pathBY JOE KEOHANEPHOTOGRAPHS BY AL ARGUETA88 FEBRUARY 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMHEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • FEBRUARY 2013 89

THREE PERFECT DAYS || BELIZEBELIZE || THREE PERFECT DAYSLOCAL LURE Rumfish y Vino inPlacencia; opposite, the Rio OnPools in Mountain Pine RidgeReserve, near Blancaneaux LodgeBELIZE BY THE NUMBERSNUMBER OF YEARSSINCE COUNTRY WAS FOUNDED31POPULATION356,600NUMBER OF VISITORS ARRIVINGBY CRUISE SHIP ALONE,JANUARY–AUGUST 2012441,443SIZE, IN SQUARE MILES8,867RANK AMONGCENTRAL AMERICAN COUNTRIESIN POPULATION DENSITY7(THE LEAST DENSE)PERCENTAGEOF FORESTED LAND61PERCENTAGEOF PROTECTED LAND36WHEN YOU MENTION BELIZE, mostpeople think of the northeast, home to suchwell-established stops on the global-travelercircuit as Ambergris Caye, San Pedro, CayeCaulker and the fabled Blue Hole,arguably the world’s foremost scubadestination. But Central America’syoungest country (Belize gained independencefrom Britain in 1981) offers much more, particularlyin the less developed south and west. Theseregions have everything from pristine beaches,for which Belize is best known, to spectacularMayan ruins, cathedral-like caves and a varietyof ecosystems that can change every few miles:Shoreline is followed by savannah, which itselfis followed by subtropical forest; pine forest andrain forest are side by side, separated by only anarrow ridge. What’s more, the oncetricky dirt roads here are increasinglybeing restored and paved, making iteasier for curious travelers to explore the otherBelize—the indigenous cultures and ecologicalgems of this tiny Central American nation. Asyou’ll discover in the days ahead, it’s a road tripwell worth taking. (Though you’ll still want torent a four-wheel drive ...)WANT MORE?Downloadour iPad app.DAY ONE | You wake up in your villa atBlancaneaux Lodge, set high in the mountainsof western Belize, just in time tomeet the man bringing coffee, fruit, fryjack (fried bread) and jam to your door. Thegrounds of this remote resort, owned byrenaissance man Francis Ford Coppola, areall sunshine and bird cries, lush greeneryand craggy cliffs overhanging a lazy river.You take your breakfast in a hammock onthe screened porch, then get dressed andhead to the main lodge to meet Jorge deLeon, your ace guide for the day.As you barrel down the red dirt road in afour-wheel drive, Jorge—nicknamed “TheLion” in his native San Ignacio—tells youabout his grandfather, the chiclero. Backbefore the dawn of synthetic chicle, theharvesting of sap for use in gum was bigbusiness in Belize, and the chiclero mademoney in vast quantities and spent it withferocious abandon. Even today there’s aBelizean saying invoked by a seller whena buyer blanches at a steep price: “That’snothing for a chiclero.”You stop at a military checkpoint,then proceed to the Rio Frio Cave. Belizeis riddled with caves, many of which containhuman remains. The Maya wouldperform ritual sacrifices in these placesbecause they believed they were portalsto the underworld, through which the SunGod, in the form of a jaguar, would travelat dusk. The Rio Frio Cave is open-ended,MILES OF ROAD, TOTAL1,868MILES OF ROAD, PAVED357NUMBER OF CORAL ATOLLS3(OUT OF FOUR TOTALIN THE WESTERN HEMISPHERE)NUMBER OF NATIONAL ANIMALS2(BAIRD’S TAPIR ANDTHE KEEL-BILLED TOUCAN)90 FEBRUARY 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMHEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • FEBRUARY 2013 91

THREE PERFECT DAYS || BELIZEBELIZE || THREE PERFECT DAYSBOOK MARKSA neglected cuisine has its dayFor all its variety, Belizean foodoften gets short shrift, overshadowedby that of its neighbor tothe north, Mexico. But last yearsaw the publication of the firstproper Belizean cookbook, Flavorsof Belize, compiled by Belize Citydesigner and publisher TanyaMcNab and packed with a mixof traditional and contemporaryBelizean recipes, as well asinsight into the history and developmentof the native cuisine.The inspiration came fromMcNab’s childhood. Hergrandfather, who owned the firstsupermarket in Belize City, ranan annual Christmas contest thatasked customers to send in theirfavorite recipes—which theydid, in vast numbers. Aimingto recapture that collaborativespirit, McNab spent a yeargathering as many recipes asshe could from locals, chefsand even her own grandmother.That last one, though, proved achallenge. “The hardest part,”McNab says, “was pinning herdown and getting her to tell uswhat goes in there.”SENSORY OVERLOAD The heated poolat Blancaneaux Lodge; opposite, clockwisefrom top left, Maya Center artisans; a roomat Blancaneaux Lodge; the (other) BlueHole; reef chicken at Wendy’sso it wasn’t used for sacrifices—but it wasused, as evidenced by the Mayan poeryfragments scaered around.The crown jewel of the Cayo regionis Caracol, a sprawling ruin that oncewas one of the most powerful cities inthe Mayan world. At its peak there weremaybe 150,000 people living here, roughlyhalf the present population of Belize, andthe whole city was clad in plaster. It wasmysteriously abandoned 1,200 years agoand rediscovered by a logger in 1937.As you explore, a hummingbird mistakesyour orange backpack for a giantflower; a howler monkey erupts in anearby copse, scaring you out of yourwits. Skirting a coal-black fire ant hillwith great care, you encounter what’s leof a middle-class Mayan residence. Underit is a tomb in which archeologists madean extraordinary discovery: skeletonswith flaened foreheads and jade inlaidin their teeth. In other Mayan cities, suchstatus symbols were reserved for theSIMONE ROE PHOTOGRAPHY (COOKBOOK)PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY92 FEBRUARY 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

THREE PERFECT DAYS || BELIZEBELIZE || THREE PERFECT DAYSWALKING THE PLANKS The viewfrom the pier-end bar at Robert’sGrove Beach Resort in Placencianobility, who would bind infants’ foreheadsso they would be flat like the Jaguar God’s.(One king, in fact, went by the name “Jade-Mouth Jaguar,” which rivals the modernworld’s very best hip-hop pseudonyms.) Butin Caracol, the middle class was allowed a portionof bling as well. Though this suggests arather enlightened leadership, it also causedproblems for less generous kings, who fearedthat if their people found out what was happeninghere, they would revolt.The centerpiece of the site is Caana, theerstwhile royal residence—which, at 14ofeet, is still Belize’s tallest structure. As youapproach it along a wooded path, Jorgetells you, “Fix your eyes to the groundand don’t look up until I tell you to.”You look up. “Head down!” When youget to the clearing, Jorge gives youthe all-clear, and you behold amassive pyramid towering above a manicuredlawn ringed with jungle. You startclimbing the stairs, which is a challengebecause they’re so tall and steep. This isby design, so that the king’s visitors wouldhave to crawl up on all fours, in deference,and invaders could be easily repelled. Atthe top you stand, winded. The view, likethe trek up, is breathtaking. You can seeclear to Guatemala.Legs howling, you return to the lodge,change and spend an hour bobbingaround the cliffside U-shaped hot poolwith a bole of Belikin beer, the ubiquitousnational brew. Aer that, dinner is atthe property’s Guatemalan eatery, housedin a plain, screened wooden structure(there is also an Italian restaurant). Thefood is simple and good: bean stew, grilledchicken with salsa fresca and a dessert ofbananas cooked in buer and cinnamon.It’s been a long day, but you feel you’dbe remiss not to get a nightcap at the bar,which has the original ceiling fan from theopening scene of Apocalypse Now. You sitbeneath it and call for a whiskey. Fortunately,unlike Martin Sheen in the film, youmanage to hold it together long enough tofinish the drink and retire, intact, to bed.DAY TWO | Your hotel shower is in ascreened room abuing a small backyard(which itself adjoins a patio with a privateplunge pool). This grants you the benefitof showering outside without risk of mistreatmentby the local insect community.You wash off what’s left of yesterday’sbug spray and sunscreen, pack your bags,enjoy some more coffee and fry jack, andhit the road.You motor along the Western Highwayto the capital, Belmopan, and thenturn south onto the scenic HummingbirdHighway. You follow the road, snakingthrough mountain passes, along farmsand ranches, and past small, scaershotvillages, where children ride bikes on dirtroads between brightly colored homesand their parents chat in “cool spots”:unadorned roadside establishments offeringshade and cold drinks.The Hummingbird ends at the SouthernHighway, which then takes you southto Maya Center, a tiny Mayan village thatserves as the gateway to the CockscombBasin Wildlife Sanctuary, home of theworld’s first jaguar preserve. First stop isthe cra center, where Mayan women sella wide array of locally made pieces. Aerpicking up an incongruously futuristic94 FEBRUARY 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMHEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • FEBRUARY 2013 95

THREE PERFECT DAYS || BELIZEBELIZE || THREE PERFECT DAYSjade mask that manages to bridge the gapbetween scary and beautiful, you driveseven miles of rough road uphill to thetrailhead. You don’t spot any jaguars, butthe moderately strenuous 90-minute hikethat ensues takes you past a waterfall andup to Ben’s Bluff, a clearing with a terrificvista of the surrounding forest.The sun is setting as you pull ontothe Placencia Peninsula, south of MayaCenter. The road here was paved justtwo years ago, triggering a boom thattransformed this formerly quiet stringof fishing villages into globally soughtafterreal estate. You drive past hotelsand large waterfront houses underfrantic construction before reachingthe end of the peninsula and the townof Placencia, which still retains plentyof laid-back charm. You settle in atWendy’s, a beloved 10-year-old restaurantspecializing in Creole and Spanish food,and order chirmole, a traditional spicyblack bean soup made with chickenand boiled eggs. You round out the mealwith the cheese Creole shrimp, whichcomes in a delicate jack cheese sauce,accompanied by a side of rice cookedin coconut milk.Sated, you shuffle back to the car anddrive north for 15 minutes to your nexthotel, Robert’s Grove Beach Resort. Themost distinctive feature here is a mellowthatched-roof bar at the end of a longpier. It calls. You drop your bags, walk out,grab a seat and nurse a Robert’s Punch:rum, coconut rum and Nance liqueur,plus pineapple and other fruit juices.CAT POWER The roadinto the Cockscomb BasinWildlife SanctuaryStaring out over the darkened sea, listeningto the waves lap against the pilingsand enjoying the stiffening breeze, you’rebeginning to grasp the restorative propertiesof coastal Belize.DAY THREE | Robert’s Grove offers a fullbreakfast, but given that you’re going tospend most of the day swimming, you optfor coffee and toast at your table by thebeach. It’s a simple meal elevated by thefact that, as you eat it, a pod of dolphinswheels by and pelicans scour the waves.An hour later, you’re suited up and rocketingacross the glassy turquoise water inone of the resort’s boats. Robert’s Groveprovides snorkeling trips out to the BelizeBarrier Reef—the second longest reef inthe world, aer Australia’s Great BarrierReef—that are run from a private islandresembling something out of a New Yorkercartoon: tiny, with a few palm trees, abarbecue pit and a couple of rudimentaryrestrooms in a raised wooden shack.It takes about 50 minutes, skitteringpast a handful of other small islands, toget there. You hop out of the boat andwade through warm, shallow water tothe island to strap on your gear. The nexthour is spent exploring the nearby coralreefs, occasionally lighting out in pursuitof their many technicolor denizens,including reef sharks, angelfish and themesmerizing trumpet fish. There’s a breakfor lunch, a traditional Belizean feast ofbarbecued pork and chicken with beansand rice. You make quick work of it—then promptly fall asleep on the sand.0 20 milesG U A T E M A L ARobert’s Grove Beach ResortCaracolWestern HighwayB E L I Z EBelmopanHummingbirdHighwayBlancaneaux LodgeRio Frio CaveCockscomb BasinWildlife SanctuaryCoastal HighwaySouthern Highwa yMaya CenterBelize CityC a r i b b e a n S e aDAY ONEDAY TWODAY THREELOCAL KNOWLEDGETHE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELDRumfish y VinoPlacenciaSidewalkWendy’sYoli’sKent FrancisJEWELER, THE SIDEWALK,PLACENCIA“I’d recommend cave tubing in theCaves Branch River outside SanIgnacio, in Cayo. It’s a natural cave.It’s very exciting and it’s a tasteof Belize.”Wendy LemusOWNER, WENDY’S RESTAURANT,PLACENCIA“Go to Laughing Bird Caye fromApril to June, and you can seewhale sharks. You don’t even haveto snorkel—you can see them byjust standing next to the water.”Corbin FletcherMAYAWALK TOURS, SAN IGNACIO“A great cultural hot spot isDangriga, a small village. Whenthe Garifuna people migrated herethey came in dugout canoes, andevery Nov. 19 they reenact that daywith a big party.”DAY ONEBlancaneaux Lodge Mountain PineRidge Reserve; Tel. 800-746-3743;011-501-824-3878Rio Frio Cave Mountain PineRidge ReserveCaracol Chiquibul Forest ReserveDAY TWOHummingbird HighwayMaya Center Near Cockscomb BasinWildlife SanctuaryCockscomb Basin Wildlife SanctuaryTel. 011-501-227-7369Wendy’s Placencia Village;Tel. 011-501-523-3335Robert’s Grove Beach ResortPlacencia; Tel. 800-565-9757;011-501-523-3565DAY THREEPlacencia SidewalkRumfish y Vino Village Square,Placencia; Tel. 011-501-523-3293Yoli’s Harborfront, Placencia;Tel. 011-501-523-318396 FEBRUARY 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMHEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • FEBRUARY 2013 • MAP BY STEVE STANKIEWICZ 97

THREE PERFECT DAYS || BELIZEBELIZE MARKETPLACEHEMISPHERES PROMOTION l FEBRUARY 2013COUNTRY ROADSThe case for strayingfrom the pavementIt’s only fairly recently thattravelers have been ableto drive in Belize without asubsequent visit to the chiropractor.Over the past few yearsseveral of the main roads havebeen paved, allowing for anease of movement that in turnhas triggered tourism boomletsaround the country. Which is allthe more reason to, perversely,seek out the Coastal Highway.Heading north from Placencia,you’re presented with twooptions: the long way, on thepaved Hummingbird Highway,and the short way, on theunpaved and unruly 30-mileCoastal Highway. The lattertrip will take over an hour, andyou likely won’t see more thantwo or three other motorists(so if you break down, you’reout of luck for a while). Butwith risk comes reward—it’s aspectacularly beautiful drive,superior to the Hummingbird inthe scenery department, evenif it does rattle your fillings. Goget it while it lasts.The final leg of your snorkeling excursiontakes you out into open water, wheresome bigger specimens are reputed to lurk.When your guide spots a turtle, you hurlyourself enthusiastically, if inelegantly,over the side and set out in pursuit. Thereare indeed three giant sea turtles glidingalong down there. As you approach theawesome creatures, which are trailed bypilot fish, they seem mildly put out by yourpresence but also willing to endure it witha kind of tranquil forbearance.Having returned to the resort, you takea quick shower and hop into the car togo back to Placencia. Close to the beachis the Placencia Sidewalk, which once heldthe Guinness World Record for narrowestmain street on earth (it was knocked offby the unsightly Spreuerhofstrasse inReutlingen, Germany). The slender walkwayis lined with colorful homes, shopsand bars, and you stroll the length of it,greeting friendly passersby and chaingwith artisans hawking their wares.Dinner is at Rumfish y Vino, an airy andvery popular restaurant run by New Yorkexpats that reflects the cultural meltingpot that is Belize, with Asian, Europeanand Central American elements jockeyingBIG MOUTH The Rio Frio Cave,whose entrance rises over 60 feetfor prominence. You order the spiced plantainchips and a perfect conch ceviche asan appetizer, and choose Rumfish’s flawlesstake on barbecued pork, served withgreens and polenta, for a main, washing itall down with good wine.Aer dinner, you head to the end of thestreet and turn le. The pavement ends,yielding to sand, and you walk another 10minutes in the dark along the shorelineuntil you reach Yoli’s, a laid-back, open-airbar overhanging the water. The music isgood, a mix of classic and contemporaryreggae, and the air is cooling, so you bellyup and call for a Belikin as the place fills.Before long, one of the locals involves youin a game involving a brass ring suspendedfrom a string. The aim is to swing the ringacross the room and land it on a hook onthe far post. You try, fail, try again. Patronsare timing it so they can dance across theroom without geing hit. The woman asksif you want to make a wager. Sure, you say:one beer. She destroys you, but you don’tcare. Go again? Why not—what’s the hurry?Hemispheres editor in chief JOE KEOHANEnever did get the hang of that game.supreme relaxationBOARDING PASS From its forests and ancient Mayan ruins to its pristine Caribbean shoreline, Belize brims with attractions foradventurous types and beach bums alike. United can take you there with nonstop service from its U.S. hubs at New York/Newark andHouston. Before your trip, use United’s carbon offset program to support conservation efforts in Belize, which benefit local communitiesand address the environmental impacts of travel. Take action today by visiting united.com/offsets.98 FEBRUARY 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM800-813-8498BelizeIslandParadise.comLet us design your private island getaway–only 35 minutes from the airport.Free Massage–mention Code UAH