<strong>In</strong> January, 2006, at my yearly check up w<strong>it</strong>h Dr. Thom<strong>as</strong>, <strong>as</strong>ports medicine specialist revealed my left hip w<strong>as</strong> deteriorating.At this time I put his <strong>word</strong>s out <strong>of</strong> my mind, sure <strong>it</strong> hurt- but Iw<strong>as</strong> surfing, exercising and hip replacement w<strong>as</strong> <strong>the</strong> l<strong>as</strong>t thing onmy mind... anyway I w<strong>as</strong>n’t feeling old.Living 4 months <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year in Hawaii and surfing waves that werebetter than <strong>the</strong> waves I surfed in my 20’s convinced me I w<strong>as</strong>n’treally 57 years old. On January 25,2006, I spent one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bestmonths <strong>of</strong> surfing on <strong>the</strong> North Shore I had ever experienced.Flying <strong>back</strong> home <strong>to</strong> Florida w<strong>as</strong> <strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> two worlds; a lovinghusband, family, friends and church, complete w<strong>it</strong>h a good occ<strong>as</strong>ionalsurf session- <strong>it</strong> w<strong>as</strong> a recipe for a great life.2006 w<strong>as</strong> a struggle. As my pain incre<strong>as</strong>ed, so did <strong>the</strong> vis<strong>it</strong>s <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>Doc<strong>to</strong>r and Chiroprac<strong>to</strong>r. Pain medicine w<strong>as</strong> lim<strong>it</strong>ed because Ididn’t take well <strong>to</strong> <strong>it</strong>, and by February, 2007, <strong>the</strong> diagnosis w<strong>as</strong> <strong>to</strong><strong>have</strong> hip replacement.I flew <strong>to</strong> Hawaii <strong>to</strong> get in some waves before <strong>the</strong> dreaded surgery,and <strong>the</strong> internet became my research library between surf sessions<strong>as</strong> I looked up all <strong>the</strong> new hip options. I came across a new methodthat <strong>you</strong>nger, more active athletes were having success w<strong>it</strong>h. FloydLandis- a 2006 Tour de France champion, Carry Folk- an endurancetri-athlete, and Peter Webb who trained for 2005 London Marathonafter recovering from his hip surgery were among <strong>the</strong> newbreed <strong>of</strong> resurfacing Hippies.Birmingham hip resurfacing w<strong>as</strong> <strong>to</strong>uted <strong>as</strong> res<strong>to</strong>ring active lifestylesand that w<strong>as</strong> my wish.The pain w<strong>as</strong> almost unbearable, but vis<strong>it</strong>s <strong>to</strong> surf buddies BarbaraFisher and JenMurad, both acupuncturistsin Hale’iwa, keptme paddling out forwhat I thoughtcould <strong>of</strong> been myl<strong>as</strong>t surfingdays.One morning Ipaddled out atmy secret spotin Waialua andI couldn’ts<strong>it</strong> up on myboard.Beautiful overhead waves were setting up right in front <strong>of</strong> meand this man kept encouraging me <strong>to</strong> take <strong>of</strong>f. I w<strong>as</strong> frozenprone on my board, losing any flexibil<strong>it</strong>y in my hips. I startedpaddling out <strong>to</strong> sea hiding my tears in <strong>the</strong> salty ocean... whenthis surfer came up <strong>to</strong> me and <strong>as</strong>ked if he could pray for me. It w<strong>as</strong>like a vis<strong>it</strong> from an angel and after his prayer, my fear <strong>of</strong> surgeryseemed <strong>to</strong> fade away and I knew I would surf again, and I knewGod would help me.Returning <strong>to</strong> Florida started one vis<strong>it</strong> after ano<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong> Dr. Helmy,a surgeon who performed BHR and tested me <strong>to</strong> see if my bonedens<strong>it</strong>y w<strong>as</strong> strong enough for this procedure. It seemed I hadp<strong>as</strong>sed <strong>the</strong> bone health test, but he noticed a fracture and would<strong>have</strong> <strong>to</strong> up <strong>the</strong> surgery date. Surgery w<strong>as</strong> no piece <strong>of</strong> cake, butafter a week in <strong>the</strong> Hosp<strong>it</strong>al I w<strong>as</strong> home.My best Florida surf friend Emily (she’s a retired recovery roomnurse) encouraged me <strong>as</strong> just lifting my left leg w<strong>as</strong> a major ordeal.Staying out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water seemed like an etern<strong>it</strong>y, but once I got in<strong>the</strong> pool <strong>it</strong> w<strong>as</strong> a joy <strong>to</strong> help teach my 2 year old grandson how <strong>to</strong>swim. One Sunday my husband brought my 7’4” surfboard <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>ocean and I used my walker <strong>to</strong> get out <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> water. I w<strong>as</strong> able <strong>to</strong>get on <strong>the</strong> board, paddle, and catch waves on my s<strong>to</strong>mach.September 19th, 3 1/2 months out from surgery I would return andattempt <strong>to</strong> surf Hawaii again, and I counted <strong>it</strong> my miracle.I felt like a kook beginner again, but once I got <strong>to</strong> my feet on <strong>the</strong>board, my 45 years <strong>of</strong> surfing kicked in. Looking awkward andcatching a few waves were a welcome change from <strong>the</strong> pain <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>p<strong>as</strong>t. My surf gal friends- North Shore WAVES (Women Are VeryEnthusi<strong>as</strong>tic Surfers) helped me overcome my fears <strong>of</strong> surfing some<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bigger waves <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Winter.On May 29, 2008, one year after my hip surgery, I w<strong>as</strong> honered <strong>to</strong>teach my now 3 year old grandson, how <strong>to</strong> surf in Waikiki.God h<strong>as</strong> blessed me w<strong>it</strong>h family and friends, He protects mew<strong>it</strong>h prayers and angels. What a gift God gives us by allowingus <strong>to</strong> surf. Surfing CAN BE <strong>the</strong> best <strong>the</strong>rapy.Linda GroverPho<strong>to</strong>s by Emily Lewis36 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
NySe<strong>as</strong> are a patented unbelievably s<strong>of</strong>t silicon-b<strong>as</strong>edproduct designed <strong>to</strong> minimize or eliminate <strong>the</strong> pressureand discomfort exerted <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> neck area frombathing su<strong>it</strong> knot and strings.wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 37
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