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Oct 31-Nov 13, 2014Japan’s Nº1 English MagazineCHECK OUR NEW WEBSITE!www.metropolisjapan.comBEAUTIFULNIGHTMARESTIM BURTON’S DARK ARTLOUD AND PROUDCOMING OUT OF THEPAPER CLOSETSUBCULTURECENTRALSEE OURNAKANOSPECIAL無 料 PRICELESSFINDINGFALLTOKYO’S TOPKOYO SPOTSTITANS’ATTACK ONUENOCHECK THEWATCH LISTGET INTOIKEBANAIN TOKYOCLASSIFIEDSQueenofHeartsCHE’NELLECHANNELSTHE LOVE

DO YOU HAVEWHAT IT TAKESFOR TV?Looking for English& Chinese speakersAlso Japanese, Spanish& French speakersNOW IN JAPAN!TOKYOCORRESPONDENTFashion One broadcasts original programmingto over 300 million people in 44 countries.We’re now looking for a Tokyo correspondentto join our worldwide operations.No fashion experience needed—just the rightpersonality! Send your CV, cover letter, photoand/or video application, plus a link to anyon-camera work to:http://www.fashionone.jp/casting日 本 初 上 陸 ! 日 本 初 上 陆 !日 本 人 テレビリポーターを 募 集 しています!ファッション ワンは 世 界 44ヶ 国 、3 億 人 以上 に 発 信 している 番 組 です。履 歴 書 と、プロファイル 写 真 一 枚 を 送 って下 さい。もしあなたが 映 っている 動 画 やリンク 先があれば、 是 非 一 緒 に 送 って 下 さい。http://www.fashionone.jp/casting我 们 正 在 面 向 全 球 招 募 中文 流 利 的 电 视 台 记 者 !你 好 , 美 女 ! 想 成 为 一 名 记 者 吗 ?我 们 会 是 你 的 第 一 选 择 !只 要 你 拥 有 一 副 可 爱 的 容 貌 , 那 就 快 快加 入 我 们 这 支 年 轻 的 队 伍 吧 !你 只 需 要 给 我 们 发 送 你 的 简 历 和 照 片 。FACEBOOK 等 个 人 网 页 也 欢 迎 !http://www.fashionone.jp/castingBE SEEN. BE THE SCENE.metropolis.co.jp/fashionone

EDITOR’SLETTERinsideOCT 31-NOV 13, 2014 • #1075This issue of Metropolis is about finding yourself. As we takeoff our futuristic and frightening Halloween masks, it’s time torediscover the people underneath. On our way out for some privatetime in colorful fall kōyō, we sat with songstress Che’nelle tolearn how her music has been influenced by her multicultural life.Of course, there are those who prefer expression through style,and the underground side of Fashion Week may be just for you.Or perhaps you’d prefer Tim Burton’s world of the weird? Andthen there’s our detailed exploration of Nakano ward, where youcan be proud to be yourself no matter who that happens to be.Photo by Ryan Bruss Photo by Martin Leroux © 2014 Tim Burton06 16 27Pop Princess: Che’nelle expounds on the love of love.Nakano Nuance: A city official shows his pride.Glue and Scissorhands: Tim Burton’s eerie art.Cover design: Kohji Shiiki. Photography: Ryan Bruss. Wardrobe: Samuel Thomas. Photographed at Oakwood Premier Tokyo Midtown.GET PRINTED!SEND YOUR FALL LEAVES PHOTOS FOR THE NOV 14 ISSUE. DEADLINE NOV 3 metropolis.co.jp/features/photoIN FOCUSThe rear entrance to Sankeien Gardens in Yokohama, by Charles Levie8F Nishi-Azabu Sonic Bldg, 3-2-12 Nishi-Azabu,Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0031 Tel 03-4588-2277Fax 03-4588-2278 • www.metropolisjapan.comMETROPOLIS is Japan’s No.1 English magazine,founded in 1994 and published for Japan’sinternational community.Search over 30 million photos✓ 10 free starter credits with registration✓ 25% credits bonus on purchasePromo Code: Metropolis www.123rf.com/metropolisCHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Neil Butler EDITORIAL Mike Kanert (Managing Editor) Martin Leroux (Editor) Wendy Nguyen (EditorialAssistant & Social Media Manager) Anna Cock Gibson (Proofreader) Momoko Mochizuki, Nina Janezic (Interns) CONTRIBUTING EDITORSDan Grunebaum (Entertainment) Don Morton (Movies) C.B. Liddell (Arts) Samuel Thomas (Fashion) DESIGN Kohji Shiiki (Art Director) DaviAzevedo (Graphic Designer) WEB Minh Douangprachanh (Digital Manager) James McGuire (Web Developer) PRODUCTION Helen Langford(Production Assistant) ADVERTISING Akane Ochi, Karl Nakashima, Niki Kaihara (Sales Managers) Yo Takahashi (Sales Executive) AiHosokawa (Sales Assistant) ADMINISTRATION/ACCOUNTING Keiko Adachi (Administration) Michiko Anezaki (Adminstration/Classifieds)IT Guilhem Malfre (It/Web Developer)MetropolisMagazine @MetropolisTokyo MetropolisTokyoeditor@metropolis.co.jpReach over 60,000 Metropolis readers. Advertise with us: sales@metropolisjapan.com; http://metropolis.co.jp/advertise外 国 人 集 客 なら6 万 人 の 読 者 を 持 つNo.1ブランド・メトロポリスをご 活 用 ください。 詳 しくは:03-4588-2277© Copyright 2014 Japan Partnership Inc. The views expressed herein are not necessarily those of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to edit or delete any advertisement without notice.03

upfrontSCENE AROUND TOWNPhoto by Randy SteinlaufPhoto by Akiko NakagawaOct 18: The 59th CWAJ Print Show at the Tokyo American Club, Azabu JubanPhoto by Samuel ThomasLINGOISTIT’S ALL IN THE TIMINGFall is the season for kōyō (changing leaves) and indulging in good food—but fall one step behind, and you’ll miss it all. Timing is everything, and byusing the suffix “-goro,” you’ll know exactly when to enjoy the beautifulsights and delicious bites!JP Kōyō no migoro wa itsu desu ka?EN When will the fall leaves be attheir best?JP Migoro wa jūichi gatsu no chūjunkara jūichi gatsu no gejun desu.EN They’ll be at their best from midto late November.JP Ringo no tabegoro wa itsu desuka?EN When will the apple be at itsbest to eat?JP Ringo no soko ga ki-iro ni nattaratabegoro desu.EN It’ll be at its best when the bottomof the apple turns yellow.Oct 19: Critic Don Konishi at Shibuya Fashion Week, ShibuyaPhoto by Davi AzevedoK A N A C R O S S1 2 3け4CB5Down1. Horse races, 2. Examination,3. Councillor,6. Firefly, 8. Ocean967 8Across2. Japanese chess, 4. Inheritance,5. Third story7. Diversity, 9. To ride ormountOct 19: Illuminated mikoshi at Kawagoe Matsuri, KawagoeAPhoto by Nina JanezicANSWERS ATmeturl.com/kanacrossSolution:A B CMetropolis Members ClubTHIS WEEK’S WINNER!Khirmer Diawon a set of 7 nail enamels courtesy of RevlonUPCOMING PRIZEOne lucky MMC member will win a ¥10,000 giftvoucher courtesy of adidasOct 24: Tim Burton-themed display at Roppongi Hills West Walk, RoppongiRegister for prizes & discountswww.metropolis.co.jp/club04

3TOPfall fruit pickingUNTIL EARLY DECShibaguchi OrchardPick persimmons (until early Nov) andtangerines (until early Dec). Open 10am-4pmdaily, ¥600-800/kg (persimmons), ¥700-800(tangerines all-you-can-eat w/1kg to take home,from ¥350/kg to buy). Totsuka-ku, Yokohama.Totsuka. 20 min from station by bus. Tel:045-852-1445. www.s-kajuen.comUNTIL MID NOVNarita Yume BokujoPick sweet potatoes (until mid Nov) and peanuts(until early Nov). Open 9am-5pm daily, ¥700-1,400. Narita-shi, Chiba. Namegawa. 10 minfrom station by car. Free bus service available.Tel: 047-696-1001. www.yumebokujo.comTO-DO LISTUNTIL EARLY NOVSmall Fruits Land Berry CottagePick kiwi fruit until early Nov. Open 10am-5pmdaily, closed Mon, from ¥600/kg. Ome-shi, Tokyo.Ozaku. Tel: 042-831-3810. http://homepage1.nifty.com/cottage/Courtesy of BeatinkNOV 3-6THE VALLEY OFASTONISHMENTPeter Brook’s kaleidoscopic journeyinto the mysteries of the brain isstaged as part of Festival/Tokyo.Nov 3-6, various times, ¥5,500(adv)/ ¥6,000 (door). TokyoMetropolitan Theatre Playhouse.Ikebukuro. Tel: 03-5391-2111.www.festival-tokyo.jp/14Courtesy of Festival/TokyoEDITOR’S PICKDEC 5FLYING LOTUSWest Coast beatmaker Flying Lotus (Steven Ellison) flies into Tokyofor a one-nighter to celebrate his latest album, You’re Dead. Theouting marks a departure from FlyLo’s earth-shaking rhythms for aheadier sound. The impression left is that Ellison dug deeply intojazz’s ’70s fusion period for his samples. But this should not surprise:Ellison is, after all, the nephew of modern jazz great John Coltrane.The album also boasts contributions from Snoop Dogg and KendrickLamar, and is packaged in artwork created by Japanese manga artistShintaro Kago at the request of FlyLo himself. Dan GrunebaumDec 5, 7:30pm, ¥5,940 (adv). Shinagawa Stellar Ball. Shinagawa.www.beatink.comCourtesy of CuneiformNOV 15-16ROCK INOPPOSITIONThe first-ever festival in Japandevoted to Europe’s Rock inOpposition progressive rockmovement. Nov 15-16, 3pm,¥14,000. Tsutaya O-East.Shibuya. Tel: 03-5458-4681.http://meturl.com/rio2014UNTIL NOV 30NIGHT AQUARIUMExplore the fantastical world of the ocean with 3-D projection mapping. Observe the fishes’snight lives and enjoy a cocktail at the Ocean Café. Until Nov 30, 5-8pm, ¥600-2,100.Enoshima Aquarium. Katase-Enoshima. Tel: 0466-29-9960. www.enosui.comUNTIL JAN 5TANADA NO AKARI10,000 LED lights illuminate the Kamogawa tanada (rice terraces), one ofJapan’s top 100 terraces chosen by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestryand Fisheries. Until Jan 5, from sunset, free. Oyama Senmaida. Awa-Kamogawa. Tel: 04-7092-0086. www.tanadanoyomatsuri.comNOV 9THE 4TH INTERNATIONALFRIENDLY RUNA running event to promote internationalgoodwill, bringing together Japanese citizensand foreign nationals living in Japan.Nov 9, 8am-1pm. Odaiba Seaside Park.Odaiba Kaihin Koen. http://amia.jp/friendlyrun4CHECK FOR MORE EVENTS ON P.28!05

coverSHADESOFCHE’NELLEAmid the bitter breakup anthems andindulgent odes to partying that seemto saturate the modern airwaves, theradio still has some heart—and internationalsongstress Che’nelle is doing herpart to keep romance alive in the mainstream.The subject has always been prominentin the Australian chanteuse’s repertoire: Her2007 debut single described her falling in lovewith a DJ, while her latest, “Happiness,” is abilingual promise of friendship for the subjectof her affection.“A lot of these love songs are very fairy talelike,”Che’nelle tells Metropolis. “They focus onfalling in love, missing each other—thus influencingpeople to think and believe that this iswhat love is always like.”You might say Che’nelle has made it amission to spread love globally. The singersongwriter’swork has explored various genresoutside her typical pop and R&B turf, includingThe pop princessexpounds on love andinternational identityBY MARTIN LEROUXdancehall and reggae, and she takes advantageof her Japanese-English bilingualism tospread her message ever more broadly. She’salso lent her talent to other artists, co-penningheartfelt tunes for the likes of Leona Lewis andfellow Aussie Ricki-Lee.It’s quite fitting, then, that Japanese fanshave crowned her “the princess of love.”“I think honesty is probably difficult to communicatein Japanese culture, because everyonecares so much about how the other personfeels,” Che’nelle says to explain Japan’spredilection for tunes on the sweet side. “Sothese love songs can either give them hopein the world of love, or give them courage tobe honest.”Born in Malaysia, Che’nelle got her musicalstart singing in her father’s karaoke bar.She then moved to Perth, Australia at theage of ten, and she attributes part of herPhoto by Ryan Brusssuccess to her international upbringing.“The ideas that I have would be more limitedif I wasn’t exposed to all these different culturesand ways of the world,” she says. “I believe thatI adapt so easily into different cultures becauseI respect and love so much.”Che’nelle performed with a pop cover bandfor five years before seriously pursuing musicupon graduating high school, when she startedwriting and producing songs that she uploadedto MySpace. It was there she was discoveredand immediately signed to Virgin Records.“Social media is, to me, a blessing and acurse,” she laughs. “The advantage is that peopleget to put music up and show it to the worldwithout having to be signed to a label … It’s ado-it-yourself world these days, and people areblessed to be able to do that.”Seven albums and a slew of singles later, itseems Che’nelle is well on her way to globaldomination: she’s just finished a video for “DoYou Wanna,” a collaboration with Miami reggaeartist Shifta; “Happiness” was selectedas the theme song to the new Fuji TV dramaDear Sister; she’s working on a music videofor her single, “Fierce,” which she describesas an “electro-pop, high-energy dancefloormonster;” and she’s releasing a new J-pop albumin 2015.2014 has also been full of firsts for Che’nelle,who’s now working on a fashion project—though she’s keeping things under wraps forthe moment, describing it only as “a really coolapparel project I’ve been developing slowlyfor some time now.” Dropping a hint, she adds,“This item normally comes in pairs, but withmine, one of them will be all you need to shinebright like a star.”This year also sees Che’nelle steppinginto entrepreneurship with the opening ofThe Crabby Shack, a restaurant in Brooklyn inwhich she’s invested. “It’s all about crabs: crabrolls, crab mac and cheese, crab this and crabthat—and it’s all bomb!” she raves. “Anyonetraveling to NYC, please go check it out. Tell‘em Che’nelle and Metropolis sent you—you’llget a special deal!”Now that she’s got the world in her hands,what’s next for Che’nelle?“I have no idea,” she laughs. “Maybe I’ll writea book.”“Whatever I do,” she adds, “I hope it inspiressomeone to reach for their dreams.”Check out Che’nelle’s new single,“Happiness,” available Nov 19.Keep up with Che’nelle at www.facebook.com/chenelleworld, www.twitter.com/chenelleworld, and www.instagram.com/chenelleworld.Check out The Crabby Shack in New York atwww.facebook.com/crabbyshackbk.06

fashion fixALTERNATIVE TOKYOFASHION WEEKBY SAMUEL THOMAS, FASHION EDITORf the mention of Tokyo Fashion Week only conjures up imagesof po-faced models walking polished catwalks over inShibuya Hikarie, where the “official” Mercedes-Benz FashionWeek Tokyo events are held, then you’re missing out on muchof what the week has to offer.Some of the week’s biggest talking points were actuallyoff-schedule, thrown open to the general public ordinarilyexcluded from the official festivities. Taking the leadon populist fashion was the Tokyo New Age runwayshow presented as part of Shibuya Fashion Week,in which Shibuya’s iconic Bunkamura Street waspedestrianized and transformed into a red carpetrunway for four of the city’s most avant-garde designers.The location not only made it possible foreveryone who wanted to attend to see the show, butalso opened the progressive fashion to shoppers,tourists and plenty of bemused passers-by who happenedto be in the area.This democratic approach to fashionwas echoed by The Happening, organizedby Xanadu Tokyo owner Tatsuro Motohashi,who staged a runway throughout theLaForet Harajuku department store that spilled out ontothe street. The fashion show—from underground Tokyobrands Garter, Roggykei, Obsess, ArakiShiro and Nyte—was entirely crowd-funded,beautifully subverting in the processthe corporate sponsorship system requiredto get a show on the official schedule.Elsewhere, Tokyo-based Taiwanesebrand Jenny Fax from designer ShuehJen-Fang invited her fans to a concretebunker in the ruins of the old Tokyo DenkiUniversity’s Chiyoda campus. Jenny Faxpresented a gaggle of corpses bound forthe afterlife, either at rest in dresses thatresembled beds or embellished with giftsrequired for entry into heaven. “My themewas negativity,” the designer mused, adding,“I am just a very negative person.” Still, itcertainly seemed as if the collection struck a verypositive nerve with her fanatical following keento wear her sardonic wit on the streets of Tokyo.However, perhaps the most subversive showof all was from contemporary kimono designerJotaro Saito, who presented his show in tandemwith his father Sansai Saito. Ever the rebelliousson, Jotaro bounced increasingly modernist ideasoff his father’s more conservative designs beforetheir ideas eventually blurred into an accord ofkimono artistry fit for modern Tokyo—respectful totradition, yet still a relevant, living fashion garment.Photos by Samuel Thomas07

food&drinkPhoto by Davi AzevedoRanging from ¥1,400-1,730 for pork or pasta,Flags Cafe & Dining doesn’t offer the cheapestlunch sets around. But when the price includesa salad bar with unlimited wine, who can complain?The atmosphere is unexpectedly brightand airy for an underground affair, with lightwood-grain tables and Roman Holiday permanentlypaying on the kudzu-crept walls. Themain clientele are young women and dating couples;evenings offer more typical à la carte fare.B1F Nakashima Bldg, 3-28-13 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku.Shinjuku. http://meturl.com/flagscafeEverything about Eggcellent is egg-themed—from the artistic egg-shaped wooden entrancewayto the bookshelves and salt shakers.Organic eggs start at ¥1,300, while eggsBenedict variants run from ¥1,300-1,900, afterwhich you can peck at an organic egg crèmebrûlée for ¥700. The lunch plate includes thedaily eggs Benedict, pancakes, salad and adrink for ¥1,500. Portions could be upgradeda cluck.1F Roppongi Hills Metro Hat/Hollywood Plaza,6-4-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Roppongi.With branches from Hokkaido to Okinawa, Chao-Chao Gyoza offers Chinese dumplings that aremore than a cut above the rest. The chain’s remarkablyfresh namesake gyoza (¥297) arrivenot in individual lumps, but strung together like arack of ribs. The “luxurious crab and shrimp longbargyoza” (kani to ebi zeitaku rongu bo gyoza,¥399) is just as described, while the thick-cutbacon (atsugiri bacon, ¥491) is purely addictive.While there’s no English menu, there are lots ofpictures. Find the nearest branch here:www.gyozaya.com/chao/shop/RESTAURANTUndergroundBluesBY MIKE KANERT¥¥¥EN/JPWhile Omotesando gets the upscale rep andShimokitazawa is all about the hip, Jiyugaokahas quietly been setting a lockdown on cuteand quaint. With its open streets already linedwith patisseries and adorable cafés, the BlueBooks Cafe now aims to inject a bit of adultfood fare into the area’s pantheon of prim.Located at the bottom of an inviting flightof stairs off a brick-inlaid pedestrian street, thecafé’s red-brick walls create a classic train-stationjazz-bar ambiance, with an appropriate undercurrentof lively music encouraging animatedconversation. Seating is available at a broad baror among chairs and sofa seats surrounded bybookshelves—though the subterranean lightingmay be too dim for any serious reading.While billed as a café, this is truly an internationalrestaurant. Appetizers of note include asalty Spanish omelet (¥700) filled with either sausageor five types of mushrooms (shiitake, shimejiand girolle among them), as well as a “Bien Duo”of prosciutto and coppa (¥1,000). A traditional cutof Italian pork taken from the hindquarters, thecoppa is oily and soft, slipping delectably downalmost without being chewed. Avoid the marinatedsalmon and fresh cheese tartine (¥600),however—you could do as well by slapping asupermarket fish on a slice of baguette.Mains include cutlet sandwiches (¥1,100), pastas(¥1,100-1,200), grilled pork (¥1,600), a kushiageplate (¥1,800) and a ribeye steak (¥1,800),while the Blue Books Hamburger comes on arye bun with flame-grilled onion, mustard leaf,sprouts, eggplant marinade and homemadeketchup with a cute side of curly fries (¥1,200).The standout dish is the chou farci (cabbageroll) stewed in a cocotte, or French oven pot, thesealed cooking process locking the flavor inside.Immersed in a white-wine soup seasoned withonion and chicken bouillon, the tender cabbagecradles a softball-sized ball of ground beef flavoredwith port wine, cumin and burdock root(gobō), with the delightfully tasty tomato hiddenin the center. The most expensive thing on themenu at ¥2,000, it’s worth the price just to savorthe rarity of a cabbage roll with character.The drinks menu offers whisky, cider, winesand cocktails, with a few deadly options involvingtequila thrown in (cocktails ¥800-1,000). Ofparticular note is the house specialty Blue NoteTokyo Beer, a light, fruity and airy IPA availableat ¥700 for 330ml or ¥900 for 450ml. If alcoholisn’t your thing, there are also coffees, teas andfive flavors of milkshakes, which, at ¥700 each,go down like sticking a straw into a frothy glassof milk and half-melted homemade ice cream.The prime finisher is the walnut tart (¥600), animposing wedge of walnuts mortared togetherwith a thin coating of caramel, mounted on thetiniest of cake crusts. Forget the fork: It’s easierto pick up this sticky brick and devour it by hand.B1F Eureka Bldg, 2-9-15 Jiyugaoka, Meguro-ku.Jiyugaoka. www.bluebookscafe.jpCourtesy of Blue Books Cafe08

Upscale supermarket chain Kinokuniya extendsits reign on Japan’s food empire withthe opening of Kinokuniya Vino Kitchen. Locatedat Atre Vie Mitaka, this cafe and winebar features a wide selection of imported andlocal wines. The menu consists of originalrecipes from Hitoshi Iwasaki, chef at the HotelMetropolitan Marunouchi’s Tenqoo restaurant,utilizing ingredients available at thesupermarket.3-46-4 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka City. Mitaka.http://meturl.com/atrevieCourtesy of ジェイアール 東 日 本 フードビジネス( 株 )If you're looking for delicious pancakes in thebig culinary jungle of Roppongi Hills, thenhead over to Moroko Bar and enjoy sweetand savory pancakes, which come in eitherfluffy or crispy types (¥1,200-1,700), served inbig portions. Lunch menus for ¥1,000. Fourleggedfriends can join in the fun and choosefrom a special menu for dogs (¥400-600) andcatch fresh air on the terrace.Mori Tower Hillside B1, 6-10-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku.Nearest station: Roppongi. http://cafe.morokobar.comPhoto by Nina JanezicRECIPENO-BAKE TOFU CHEESECAKERECIPE AND PHOTO BY RIEKO SUZUKILove a good cheesecake but have dietary restrictionsforcing you to miss out? Rejoice: this isa no-bake, low-calorie and gluten-free cheesecakethat uses tofu, fat-free yogurt and kanten(agar) instead of gelatin, which gives the cheesecakea slightly firmer texture. With this recipe,you can have your cake and eat it too!¥ EN/JPRESTAURANTking of gyozaBY WENDY NGUYENWalking through the maze-like lanewaysof Nakano Broadway can workup quite an appetite, and decidingwhere to eat can be a bit daunting.Gyoza No Ohsho serves up Chinesefood that’s delicious and cheap—andright in the middle of the action.This low-key restaurant looksand feels much more like a familyrunbusiness than your average chain. Theeatery offers mostly bar seating, where youcan watch chefs meticulously mold and perfectthe restaurant’s famed gyoza.The menu has a few standout items, andif you’re unsure, just take a peek at what thelocals are ordering. The gyoza (¥240 for sixpieces) are a must-have. They’re freshly madein-house, and upon tasting the delicate parcels,the difference between handmade andmass-produced becomes apparent. Thesegyoza are extremely thin-skinned and deliciouslyjuicy on the inside—and when dunkedin the shop’s delicately balanced mixture ofsoy sauce and vinegar, they’re perfection!Another popular dish is the niraniku itame(sautéed pork liver and leek, ¥480). Pork liveris easy to overcook, and often ends up toughand dry—but Ohsho delivers it soft and tenderevery time. The leek and bean sprouts give thedish a freshness and crunch that eliminate theoft-overwhelming oiliness of Chinese cuisine.The mapo-dōfu (bean curd with mincedmeat and chili sauce, ¥500) is deliciously balancedbetween the delicately soft, slightlysweet tofu and the faintly sour mapo sauce.The chili sauce could be stronger, but as thedish is adapted to local tastes, the heat downgradeis forgivable.No visit to this Chinese restaurant would becomplete without its signature fried rice: thetenshindon (fried egg and crab-topped friedrice in a soy-based sauce, ¥480) is packedwith flavor. The rice is seasoned perfectly andless oily than traditional varieties; instead, it’smoist and well-complemented by the sauce.The fried egg on top is a delicious additionthat transforms the conventional side dish intoa meal that can stand on its own.It’s easy to mistake the humble-lookingNakano restaurant for a traditional, family-runbusiness that’s been in the area for generations—butthis is just one of 600 Gyoza NoOhsho restaurants nationwide.5-56-12 Nakano, Nakano-ku. Nakano. www.ohsho.co.jpPhotos by Tommy PhamStart to finish: 3.5h (active time 40 min)Servings: 8• 150g fat-free yogurt (drained overnight using apaper towel or a coffee filter over a strainer)• 150g kinu (silken) tofu• 100g cream cheese• 80g sugar• 1 tbsp lemon juice (1 tbsp = 15ml)• 100ml water• 4g kanten powder (2 tsp)• Optional: Fresh fruit or jam for serving• Optional: 1 tbsp white wine (1 tbsp = 15ml)DIRECTIONS:1. In a deep mixing bowl, combine the yogurt,tofu, cream cheese, sugar, lemon juiceand white wine (optional). Hand-blend untilsmooth.2. In a small bowl, mix the water and kantenpowder. Microwave the mixture on highheat until it boils. Stir until the powder iscompletely dissolved.3. Add 100ml of the mixture from step 1 intothe kanten mixture from step 2 and microwaveto a boil again on high heat.4. Add the rest of the mixture from step 1 intothe katen mixture and stir briskly to avoidlumps. Note: It’s important to keep themixture from step 1 at room temperature orwarmer to prevent the kanten from settingbefore it’s blended evenly.5. Pour the final mixture into an 18cm cakemold. Refrigerate for 2.5-3 hours until firm.6. Serve with jam or fresh fruit if desired.Rieko SuzukiRieko blogs bilingual recipes athttp://meturl.com/ruby09

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escapesFINDINGFALLCOLORSExperience the kōyōin TokyoBY HELEN LANGFORDEach of Japan’s four seasons has its own distinct“must-see” natural wonder. Fall’s principalnatural delight—changing leaves, or kōyō—ison display from October to December, andlasts long enough for even the busiest foliagefans to get in some leaf time. Location playsa part in how early or late the leaves change,but Tokyo is looking at mid-November to mid-December for the most part, with mountainareas starting earlier. So throw on a cozy coat,pack yourself a bento and head out for somebrilliant fall hues.RIKUGIEN GARDENSDeclared “a special beauty spot of Japan” in1953, Rikugien Gardens features maple, zelkovaand ginko trees among others. Expectmind-blowing brilliance to span the last thirdof November to mid-December, including eveningillumination. Komagome. http://meturl.com/rikugardenINOKASHIRA PARKStraddling Kichijoji and Mitaka, InokashiraPark is known for its maples, though its cherrytrees also turn a lovely shade of red. Rent apaddle or swan boat and enjoy the view fromthe water. Those with young children shouldcheck out Inokashira Park Zoo, where thesmall entrance fee tends to keep the arealess crowded than the rest of the park. JRKichijoji or Inokashira Koen. http://meturl.com/inoparkKōyō at Rikugien GardensKoganei area. Both have barbecue areas, andNogawa offers a small playground on its farside. The parks are best known for maples,though the cherry trees in Musashino Parkalso put on quite a show—as do cosmos flowersearlier in the fall. Shin-Koganei. http://meturl.com/nogawaPhoto by Helen LangfordSHOWA KINEN PARKShowa Kinen Park sprawls sumptuously overTokyo’s Tachikawa-Akishima area. Its mostfamous fall feature is an avenue of ginko treesaccessible from the Tachikawa entrance,though there’s also a Japanese garden withbeautiful Japanese maples closer to the Sunagawagate. Check the map on the park’swebsite to find the best station for your desireddestination, or you could find yourself infor a long haul. The park also boasts severalbrilliant play areas, one of which is barrierfree,so if you’ve got wee ones who care lessabout brilliantly colored foliage, Showa Parkhas something to keep them busy. Aim forBEYOND TOKYOIf you’re up for more fresh air andexertion than Tokyo’s parks canoffer, head out to one (or more) ofthe many hiking trails in the hillson the city’s western edge. Greathiking options with beautiful fallfoliage include Takao-san andvarious parts of Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park—or you could hitKamakura further south.Want to know more? Check outhttp://metropolisjapan.com/finding-fall-colors/MUSASHINO PARK ANDNOGAWA PARKMusashino Park and Nogawa Park sit on oppositesides of a small road in the Mitaka-Chofumid-Novemberto see leaves at their vibrantpeak. http://meturl.com/showakinenKOGANEI PARKLocated on the Koganei-Kodaira border, KoganeiPark is accessible from JR Higashi-Koganeior Musashi-Koganei stations, as well asthe Seibu Shinjuku line’s Hana-Koganei station(roughly a 20-25-minute walk from each station;buses also available). Though it has lovelymaples, it’s best known for its ginko trees.The park has several playgrounds, includinga large, newly renovated one, and a barbecuearea, making it a good location for a fall familyouting. The on-site Open Air ArchitecturalMuseum (Edo-Tokyo Tatemono-en) has gorgeousJapanese maples that are highlightedby a special weekend of evening illuminationscheduled for November 22-24 from 4:30-8pmdaily. Musashi-Koganei. http://meturl.com/koganeiparkWith Ueno, Shinjuku Gyoen, Yoyogi, YasukuniShrine and dozens more still on the list, Tokyohas far too many parks, gardens, shrines andtemples to mention them all. Many are listedon the Tokyo Metropolitan Parks Associationwebsite and its Let’s Go To The Gardens page.Let’s Go To The Gardens:http://meturl.com/gogardensTokyo Metropolitan Parks Association:http://meturl.com/tokyoparksPhoto by Mike KanertFOR MORE GREAT ESCAPES IN JAPAN VISIT JAPANTRAVEL.COMJapanTravel.com11

moviesBY DON MORTONfeatured movieTHEHUNDRED-FOOTJOURNEYAn Indian restaurateur (Om Puri) and his family openMaison Mumbai in a quaint town in southern France—as it happens, directly across the picturesque lane fromthe Michelin-starred, classical French eatery Le SaulePleureur, overseen by the haughty Madame Mallory(Helen Mirren). Culinary culture clashes ensue. Fine sofar. But about halfway through the film’s two-hour runningtime, they all realize that, well golly, they’re not sodifferent after all, and after that it’s all postcard-prettysweetness and light, and it veers off into irrelevant tangents.Don’t get me wrong; at a time when too manymovies are geared toward the questionable tastes ofpreteen boys, there’s certainly room for sweetness andlight and movies made for grownups. And no moviefeaturing Helen Mirren and Om Puri can ever be bad.It’s just that for a movie about food, especially spicyIndian fare, this innocuous crowd-pleaser is prettybland. Directed by Lasse Hallström, who hasn’t madea really good movie since 1999’s The Cider HouseRules, and has even sunk so low as to direct a coupleof films adapted from Nicholas Sparks drivel. Not great,but diverting. Call it the cinematic equivalent of comfortfood. Japanese title: Madame Mallory to Mahō noSpice. (122 min)NEWSON OF A GUNA young man (an unbelievablybland BrentonThwaites) is providedprotection during hisbrief stint in prison bya notorious criminal (a just plain unbelievable EwanMcGregor) in return for helping the older man escapewhen he gets out, after which they steal some gold orsomething. I’m not sure what the makers of this littleAussie flick were trying to do. If it was to stuff everypossible prison-life/break, heist, car-chase and gangstercliché into one overlong movie, it works fine. It’srelatively coherent for all that. It’s just that it’s all beendone before, often and better. Facile ending. Japanesetitle: Guns & Gold. (108 min)NEWNYMPHOMANIACVOL. IIAlas, Lars von Trierseems to have run outof narrative in this secondhalf of Joe the selfdescribednymphomaniac’s autobiography, and fallsback on graphic S&M and a kind of homage to himself,goofing on his own oeuvre. Hardcore unpleasantnessand heavier provocations replace (mostly) the uncharacteristichumor of the first film, and while Vol. I couldstand alone, this unfocused, over-plotted and more sinistersecond half could not. Hated the ending. Still, whilevon Trier goes to great lengths to provoke, he is neverless than compulsively watchable. See Nymphomaniac:Vol. I review in issue 1073. (122 min)NEWTHE EXPENDABLES 3Let me see if I’ve gotthis straight, Sylvester.Joining your own Ramboyou’ve got Indiana Jones,the Terminator, Blade,Hercules, the Transporter, Zorro and Mad Max. Andthis cartoonish piece of brainless crap is the best youcan come up with? News flash, Sly: self-parody is onlyfunny if it’s not the only thing you have left. Please.Retire. You’re not getting any prettier. At least stop tryingto write screenplays. Bright points: A show-stealingAntonio Banderas as a motormouthed mercenary andMel Gibson who, despite his despicable off-screenissues, makes for an enormously entertaining evildoer.Japanese title: Expendables 3 World Mission. (126 min)NEWTHE EQUALIZERDenzel Washington’sa retired CIA wet opsguy who just can’t helpbut rescue a teenagehooker from her cartoonishlyevil Russian pimps. This pulpy vigilante fantasy isdirected by Anton Fuqua, who has, since 2001, beendining out on Training Day (which earned Denzel anOscar) but has produced mostly dreck since then.It would have helped if anything in it were remotelybelievable. It works well as a kick-ass, sadistic righteous-revengeflick if that’s what you’re looking for, butI found the protagonist to be so superhero invinciblethat any hope of suspense is sabotaged. Should havebeen more fun. (133 min)NEWCUBAN FURYPrompted by the arrivalat his company of a prettynew boss (Rashida Jones)who’s into salsa dancing,Bruce (Nick Frost),a now-overweight child salsa prodigy who 25 yearsago was bullied into quitting, seeks out his childhooddance teacher (Ian McShane) to get his groove back.A training montage occurs. A big dance contest looms.Chris O’Dowd’s a smarmy ladies-man coworker. Yes, thisBrit-com date movie is pretty formulaic, but hard to dislike.And while there’s not a lot of fury or other strongemotion in evidence, it remains an amiable if somewhatflat-footed, forgettable entertainment. Japanese title:Comeback! (98 min)NEWHERCULESIn last month’s review ofThe Legend of Hercules,I said wait for this one.But while this mythicmuddle is marginallybetter, it’s a major misfire. First, all those cool stunts inthe trailer are cheats and happen during the openingcredits. Second, its intriguing revisionist premise—that Hercules is not a demigod at all but a commonmercenary who trades on and feeds the mythologyas a way to get work for his gang of head-busters—istotally squandered in favor of repeated, unremarkableCG battle sequences and jarring pop culture jokesaimed at 12-year-old boys. Well, it’s Brett Ratner, isn’tit? (98 min)Hercules: © 2014 Paramount Pictures and Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Pictures. All Rights Reserved.; Son of a Gun: © 2013 S O A G H oldings P ty Ltd, S creen A ustralia, S creenW est Inc. and S creen N S W; Nymphomaniac Vol. II: © 2013 ZENTROPAENTERTAINMENTS31 APS, ZENTROPA INTERNATIONAL KÖLN, SLOT MACHINE, ZENTROPA INTERNATIONAL FRANCE, CAVIAR, ZENBELGIE, ARTE FRANCE CINÉMA; The Expendables 3: © EX3 Productions, Inc. All Rights Reserved.; CubanFury: © STUDIOCANAL LIMITED / THE BRITISH FILM INSTITUTE / CHANNEL FOUR TELEVISION CORPORATION 2013. All Rights Reserved.; The Hundred-Foot Journey: © 2014 DreamWorks ll. Distribution Co. All Rights Reserved.; A Most WantedMan: © A Most Wanted Man Limited / Amusement Park Film GmbH; Epic: © 2013 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All Rights Reserved.; Grace of Monaco: ©2014 STONE ANGELS SAS; Scum: © Kendon Films Ltd. MCMLXXIX All RightsReserved.; A Million Ways to Die in the West: © Universal Pictures; If I Stay: © 2014 Warner Bros. Ent. and Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Pictures Inc. All rights Reserved.12

More reviews: metropolisjapan.com/moviesA MOST WANTED MANWhen a severely abusedRussian-Chechen immigrant(Grigoriy Dobrygin)surfaces in Hamburgseeking asylum, competingintelligence agencies begin to circle, suspectinghe’s there to do mischief. Going against this mindsetis a German spymaster who thinks the man is innocentand can be better used to bag a wealthy Islamic philanthropisthe suspects of financing terrorists. Dramaticallyunderstated but visually striking and intellectually suspenseful.This may be minor John le Carré, but it’s majorPhilip Seymour Hoffman (his last movie), and well worthseeing for the actor’s intensity and nuance. Japanesetitle: Dare Yori Mo Nerawareta Otoko. (121 min)EPICBoy, talk about a misleadingtitle. Howabout “Middling”? I like“Underwhelming.” I tseems there’s a battleraging in our forests between two races of tiny people,one of which causes things to grow and another thatseeks only decay. Stumbling into this world is a disaffectedteen embarrassed by her geeky scientist dad’sobsession with said fairy war. This one looks great, butthe story’s so repetitive and filled with over-familiartropes that it probably plays better with the sound off.Lots of celebrity voice talent; little momentum or imagination.From the people who did Ice Age and Rio. ‘Nuffsaid. Japanese title: Mary to Himitsu no Okoku. (102 min)GRACE OF MONACOHere we have a “fictionalizedstory, based on trueevents.” (Don’t you justlove all the ways the makersof bad movies have ofrewording this caveat?) In 1962, Alfred Hitchcock offeredPrincess Grace Kelly of Monaco (Nicole Kidman) the leadin Marnie. Cornball story tells of how she is tempted butbravely refuses and pluckily buckles down to become atrue royal, and in the process, through pure charm, savesthe royal family from a palace coup and Monaco froma French invasion (over taxes), and delivers a rousingspeech at—wait for it—a lavish charity ball. Jeez. Whocares? Dramatically inert middlebrow mush. Japanesetitle: Grace of Monaco: Kohi no Kirifuda. (102 min)SCUMEver wonder wheretough-guy British actorRay Winstone startedout? With tough-kid Britgritroles, of course. This1977 docudrama, shot when Ray was 20, exposed thebrutality of the country’s “borstal” system of juveniledetention centers (since improved). It’s hard to watchin some places, with violent and graphic scenes ofbullying and rape, but never less than compelling. Itwas originally commissioned for the BBC as a critiqueof this kind of institutional dehumanization. When theBeeb deemed it too violent for broadcast, director AlanClarke reshot it as a feature film. Still powerful today.(98 min)IF I STAYA teenage girl’s family iswiped out in a car crashand she’s left in a coma,but through a mysticalnarrative device she’ssplit between her comatose self and a “spirit” self whowanders around the hospital wondering if she shouldsuccumb or awake as an orphan (albeit with a hunkyboyfriend). I’m not familiar with the YA novels of GayleForman, but I’m pretty sure she reads Nicholas Sparks.Manipulative, banal and relentlessly drippy. But the acting’sgood, especially Chloë Grace Moretz, who at 17 isshowing signs that she just might survive the transitionfrom child sensation to grown-up actor. Japanese title:If I Stay: Ai ga Kaeru Basho. (106 min)A MILLION WAYS TODIE IN THE WESTAt first I thought thischarmless oater send-upmight be more watchablehad writer/director/producerSeth MacFarlane cast a real comedic actor in thelead instead of himself. You know, someone funny. Butalmost two padded hours later, I realized that no cast, nomatter how all-star, could make this flaccid collection offart, poop, come and piss jokes palatable to anyone butits target audience of preteen boys. MacFarlane clearlythinks he’s remaking Mel Brooks’s Blazing Saddles. Thisis insulting in itself. I used to think the man was merelyannoying. Now I hate him. Japanese title: Koya waTsuraiyo: Arizona yori Ai wo Komete. (116 min)eiga© 2014『 小 野 寺 の 弟 ・ 小 野 寺 の 姉 』 製 作 委 員 会movie news© IMAGE.NET© 2014 ESKWAD - PATHE PRODUCTION - TF1 FILMS PRODUCTION ACHTE /NEUNTE / ZWOLFTE / ACHTZEHNTE BABELSBERG FILM GMBH - 120 FILMScinematic undergroundONODERANO OTŌTOONODERANO ANEBy Rob SchwartzMasafumi Nishida is well knownas a scriptwriter and novelist.He’s penned successful TVseries like Jikken Keiji Totori andAfuro Tanaka, and in 2012 hepublished the eponymous novelon which this flick is based. Healso converted it into a stageplay starring the same two leads last year. Nishida nowmakes his directorial debut with a story about an awkwardand endearing pair of siblings who’ve lived togetherand relied on each other since their parents passed awaywhen they were young. Reminiscent both in theme andatmosphere to the wonderful Yoshimitsu Morita filmThe Mamiya Brothers (2006), Susumu Onodera (OsamuMukai) is now 33, and his older sister Yoriko (HairiKatagiri) has hit 40. They’re totally comfortable aroundeach other—perhaps too much so—and show little signof any desire to have romantic relationships in their lives.When a letter is misdelivered, it sets off a chain of eventsthat changes their lives and opens them up. Sweet, funnyand charming, this yarn unspools in a delightful way.English title: Oh Brother, Oh Sister. (114 min)Tim Burton’s Batman opened 25 summers ago and, forbetter or worse, launched a new wave of superhero moviesthat’s still going strong today. “It was groundbreaking,frankly,” Michael Keaton said at the recent VeniceFilm Festival. “Tim changed a lot, and I was part of that—proudly so.” Keaton, now 63, was recently in Italy to promoteBirdman, in which he plays a fading actor who onceenjoyed the fame of an iconic superhero role but is strugglingto make a comeback on Broadway. The film hasalready won a great deal of acclaim for director AlejandroGonzález Iñárritu, who choreographed the cameraand actors (including fellow superhero alums EdwardNorton and Emma Stone) to make the drama unfold inan apparent single take. Keaton’s performance has alsogiven rise to speculation that he may win his first Oscarmore than 30 years into his career. Keaton admitted thatplaying Batman had a huge effect on his career by makinghim internationally famous, but that the role has not“followed him around” throughout his career. Not so forhis own screen character, though: “Birdman is not goinganywhere,” Keaton said. “And you all got a Birdman. Heis your negative ego who wants control. And you eitherhave to make peace with him or kick his ass.” Kevin McgueThe 18th-century French novel Beauty and the Beasthas been adapted for film several times, with theDisneyfied version being the most widely seen. Nowthe French have reclaimed the tale with a live actiontake starring Léa Seydoux and Vincent Cassel thatsticks closely to the 1756 source material by Jeanne-Marie Leprince de Beaumont. Playing from November1 at Shinjuku Piccadilly (3-15-15 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku;www.shinjukupiccadilly.com) ... Of Horses and Men,the Icelandic film that won the Tokyo InternationalFilm Festival in 2012, returns for a run from November1 at Image Forum in Shibuya (2-10-2 Shibuya, Shibuyaku;www.imageforum.co.jp). Shot in a scenic, rural partof the country with sparse dialogue, it portrays theclose relationship the people have with their horses...The French-Canadian film Tom at the Farm startsas a drama with a gay man traveling to a small townto attend his lover’s funeral, but soon turns into a psychologicalthriller when the family forces him into agame of survival. Shortlisted for Best Picture at the2nd Canadian Screen Awards in March, it’s playingnow at Human Trust Cinema Yurakucho (2-7-1Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku; www.ht-cinema.com). KM13

city lifeASK METROPOLIS ANYTHINGI’m finally admitting to myself that I am gay, buttoo afraid to come out to my family and friends.My parents are religious and would freak ifthey knew. But I need to talk to someone orelse I will go crazy. Is there a gay communityin Tokyo that you could recommend? I feel soalone and need to know that there are othergay people like me out there. Please helpme.—ConfusedDear Confused,We passed your question on to thegood people at TELL. Here’s what theyhad to say:It is great to hear you are feeling comfortableenough with yourself to acceptyour sexual orientation; this is animportant first step. Please know thatbeing gay is no different from someonehaving blue eyes or curly hair—it’s nota choice or a lifestyle but a fact of life.We are all the same, whether you areattracted to someone of the same sex,opposite sex, tall, short…Speaking to families and friends is somethingmany people from the LGBTQ communityhave concerns about, and a topic all ourLifeline counselors can support you with. Atsome point it will be important to speak withyour parents and friends; hopefully they willgive you the unconditional support and loveyou deserve. Please know that if they do not,this is their problem and not a failing on yourbehalf.Sadly, bigotry and discrimination are stillmajor factors that create barriers, risks andstressors for many LGBTQ people around theworld. While Japan doesnot penalize same-sexrelationships, homophobia,marginalization andstigmatization still createmany obstacles for gaymen and women in thiscountry. Sexual orientationand gender identityare integral aspects of ourselves, and should neverlead to discrimination orabuse. I can hear you feelvery alone. As you begin to speak publiclyabout your sexual orientation, developing asupport network will be important. You mayhave good friends back home you feel youcan speak to, and if your parents are not supportive,you may have other relatives you couldreach out to.In Japan, there is a growing range of supportfor LGBTQ people. Stonewall Japan (seeopposite) is a good starting point, along withThe Tokyo Rainbow English Speaking Societyand the OCCUR helpline. Each year, an increasingnumber of people join the Tokyo RainbowPride Parade to help raise awareness and supportequal rights, an event TELL is proud to be apart of. Next year, we hope to have a stand, aswell as participate in the march—you are verywelcome to join us. You are not alone.Answer courtesy of TELL. If you need to talk,they’re here to listen. Call the TELL Lifeline at03-5774-0992 from 9am-11pm, 365 days ayear. Or visit their website at www.telljp.comIf you want to “Ask Metropolis Anything” about lifein Tokyo, send your questions to askanything@metropolisjapan.com and we’ll find the mostappropriate people to answer your queries.PUPPY EYESYEAR-ROUNDThe dog days are here all year with AnimalRefuge Kansai’s (ARK) new calendar: twelvepages of adorable shelter animals who’vebeen given a second chance at life. Proceedsfrom sales go toward supporting ARK’s InternationalAnimal Welfare Facility in Sasayama,Hyogo prefecture, as well as feeding and caringfor the furry ones. ¥1,000 plus postage.calendar@arkbark.netDOG-WALKTHIS WAYTake eager animals on ahike through NiigataBY SANDRA YÉPEZ RÍOSAs autumn arrives, it’s a perfect time to ventureinto the great outdoors—such as the beautiful forestsof Fusube, Niigata, where furry four-leggedfriends await with tails a-wagging to join you onyour trek.Animal Friends Japan (AFJ) is a Niigatabasedshelter that claims the biggest populationof animals rescued from Fukushima in the aftermathof the Tohoku disasters of March 11, 2011.“We’re located about 200 kilometers fromFukushima,” says Isabella Gallaon-Aoki, founderof AFJ, which started as an animal hotel and smallshelter in 2008.“As we’re the nearest shelter, the evacuatedfamilies called us and asked us to go there andrescue their pets,” she says. That marked thebeginning of the facility’s population explosion.“Every day, we transported 20 to 30 animals toour shelter.”Before long, the shelter had received 700new inhabitants—cats, dogs, rabbits and chickens—allfrom Fukushima. “Since then, our dutyhas been to take care of them and try to relocateor reunite them with their families.”Three years later, only 20 pets have beenable to return to their previous owners, and a fewhundred have found new families. 450 animalsstill call AFJ home.Overpopulation and limited funds have resultedin too much work for too few hands. “Theideal would be having the shelter managed by agroup of 20,” says Rumi Fujikawa, who has beenworking with AFJ since its early days. The entire14

TRY IT OUTglobal villageSTONEWALLJAPANJapan’s LGBTQ+ connectionBY ADRIAN HAZE, PRESIDENT, STONEWALL JAPANStonewall Japan works to connect queer andtrans people, as well as their allies, all acrossJapan. Originally created in the early 1990s asa support group for LGBTQIA JET Programmeparticipants, the organization expanded in2012, opening its gates to all rainbow-inclinedforeign and Japanese individuals.Stonewall Japan’s Leadership Council isspread geographically across the country,working together to uncover queer/transfriendlylocales and organize meetup eventsthrough monthly email newsletters. Membersare always on the lookout for resources to compilefor public consumption on both the wikisite and official website. Many have come torely on the Facebook group for counseling andfacility is run by eight staff, but there were timeswhen there were only four.Daily chores in the shelter include preparingfood for each animal, cleaning the cages of catsand rabbits and taking dogs out for walks. Withmore than 100 canines, two hours of nonstop hikingper person still only allows a 10- to 15-minutewalk per dog. “If there were more people, eachcamaraderie on topics ranging from whetheror not to come out in the workplace to how tobring a partner with you to Japan or hyping thenewest dating app.On the website alone you can find mentaland sexual help resources, options for gettinginvolved, listings of block events in differentregions of Japan, and a regular series of postson day-to-day concerns—even including interviewswith major figures like George Takei.With a large chunk of the membership in theeducation field, there are also resources forintroducing queer and trans topics in lessons,as well as sometimes heartwarming (and sometimesdisturbing) tales of student interaction.http://stonewall.ajet.netdog could enjoy more time outdoors,” explainsIsabella.With this in mind, the shelter welcomes volunteersyear-round to come help walk the dogs. Iteven provides a nearby apartment to host thosecoming from other cities free of charge. For animallovers who can’t make the long-term commitmentof fostering, visiting these dogs andcats is an excellent way to spend quality time andbrighten their day—and yours.If you can’t make it out to Niigata, AFJ holdsadoption events one Sunday each month at theFarmers Market in front of the United NationsUniversity in Aoyama, where visitors can see theanimals up for adoption and learn about otherways to get involved.“We’re moving forward, but at the same timewe have huge financial hurdles to overcome,”Gallaon-Aoki admits, and the shelter is always insearch of donations and fundraising assistance.AFJ also operates an animal hotel with a pick-upservice for pets outside of Niigata, with 100 percentof the hotel’s income used to fund the shelter.For more information about upcoming adoptionevents, or to learn more about volunteeringand donating programs in AFJ, check its websites:www.facebook.com/afniigatawww.af-niigata.orgFall tempts city dwellers to get out and explore. Butif you’re on a budget, the price of transportationcan root your feet in the concrete jungle. Being aforeigner in Japan has its perks, though: pick upone of these foreigner-exclusive travel tickets andstop stressing about your expenses!ODAKYU ECONOMICALEXCURSION TICKETSWHERE TO GET THEM:Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center at Odakyuline Shinjuku station, West Exit 1F. The HakoneFreepass is also available from ticket vendingmachines at all Odakyu line stations. www.odakyu.jp/english/deels/TYPES:Hakone Freepass: You can get on and off freelythroughout a specified area, includes full coverageof the popular sightseeing destinations in Hakone,discount admission to various attractions in thearea and return transportation on the Odakyu line.Valid for 2-3 days, ¥1,750-5,140 (from Shinjuku toHakone).Fuji Hakone Pass: Includes one round-trip fromTokyo, Shinjuku (Odakyu line/Chuo Highway Bus),unlimited use of specified transport in the Hakoneand Fuji areas and reduced admission price tovarious museums as well as restaurant discounts.Valid for 3 days, ¥3,700-7,400.TOBU RAILWAY DISCOUNTPASSWHERE TO GET IT:Online and Tobu Sightseeing Service Center inTobu Asakusa station. www.tobu.co.jp/foreign/pass/TYPES:All Nikko Pass: Includes round-trip travel fromAsakusa and unlimited travel on buses betweenNikko and Okunikko and on trains between Nikkoand the Kinugawa Onsen area. Valid for 4 days,¥2,280-4,520.2-Day Nikko Pass: Includes one round trip betweenAsakusa and Shimo-Imaichi, unlimited train ridesbetween Shimo-Imaichi,Tobu Nikko and Shin-Fujiwara and unlimited bus rides between JR Nikko,Tobu Nikko, Nishi-Sando and Rengeishi stations.Photo by Mike Kanert ©123RF15

featureIN NAKANO,IT DOESN’TMATTER IFYOU’RE GAYOR NOT.”THE COUNCILIS OPENNakano’s Wataru Ishizaka opensthe door for gay officialsBY MARTIN LEROUXis an open city—aplace where people whocome are welcomed,” saysWataru Ishizaka, city councillorfor Nakano ward. “I “Nakanothought this would be an easier place tolive in. And once I moved here, it was.”As one of only two openly gay menholding elected office in Japan, Ishizakahas a personal appreciation for Nakano’shistorical embrace of diversity. Atraditional resting spot for Ainu peopletraveling south from Hokkaido, as wellas a popular location for resettled Okinawans,Nakano today is home to variousethnic and sexual minority groups,including a large LGBT (lesbian, gay,bisexual and transgender) community.“Nakano has the interesting quality ofbeing a place that absorbs many differentideas,” Ishizaka tells Metropolis.Ishizaka originally hails from Inagi cityin western Tokyo, where he worked asa volunteer with children with specialneeds. “As a sexual minority, I related tochildren with disabilities—another minoritygroup—and I thought there was somethingI could do,” he says. His desire tohelp led him to take a non-degree coursein developmental disorders, after whichhe obtained his teaching license andstarted working at a school for childrenwith disabilities in Nerima ward.“At the training school, there weregender-specific terms used for the children,and the teachers would try to getthe boys to behave more masculine andthe girls to behave more feminine. I didn’twant to be that kind of teacher. Whenteaching animals to children, they wouldpush lions and dogs to boys, and catsand rabbits to girls,” he laughs. “I was theteacher who asked the kids, ‘But aren’tthere female lions and male rabbits?’”The school’s location promptedIshizaka to move to nearby Nakano,where he took advantage of the opportunityto engage with the area’s wellestablishedLGBT community, and becameactive in volunteer work with localgroups. But he still wanted to do more.“[My partner and I] worked directlywith community groups, but it wasn’tenough—we needed to change the system.And for that to happen, we neededsomeone on the council.”A soft-spoken man with an indeliblesmile, Ishizaka first ran for office in 2007;he won in 2011. He now steps into anage where LGBT issues are slowly gainingacceptance in Japan, with even FirstLady Akie Abe joining the third annualTokyo Rainbow Pride event in April thisyear—an event in which Ishizaka alsofrequently participates.“There’s an increasing amount of support,but there’s still a lot of negativity,”Ishizaka says of the national climate towardLGBT concerns. “So it’s unrealisticto expect immediate change. However,there’s a sense that Japanese citizens’sthinking is changing significantly.”Ishizaka has always been aboutreaching out. “When I was a student,I wanted to be a social studiesteacher so I could protect groupswho were vulnerable in terms of humanrights: Those with special needs, LGBTpeople, foreigners, and so on,” he says.“I discovered my sexuality when I wasin elementary school, and I was confusedby it,” he reveals candidly, though theissue remains a sensitive one for him.“When I was 17, I became interested insomeone but didn’t want to reveal myfeelings to him in case it would bother him.“In time, I really wanted to tell himhow I felt before graduation. When I toldhim, he said he wasn’t gay and couldn’treceive my feelings—but he also said itwasn’t an issue that I was gay. After beingable to come out to the person I liked, Istarted telling my close friends.”He eventually told his family, thoughit took a while before they came around:“With my friends, many of them acceptedme as I was. With my parents, we clashedalmost daily for three years after I cameout before they could accept it too.”However, Ishizaka also acknowledgesthat there’s much work to be donebefore LGBT issues will be openly addressedand embraced by the Japanesegovernment. “Things can progress if theLGBT community raises its voice, butthey’re still hesitant. Unless they do this,the higher-ups may understand that thecommunity is having problems, but won’tknow what those problems are exactly.”That said, gay rights aren’t Ishizaka’sprincipal platform. “In Nakano, it doesn’tmatter if you’re gay or not,” he says. Rather,he uses his public position to serveas a voice for all vulnerable and underrepresentedcommunities.“As someone who lives in Nakano-ku,I sense this is an environment where it’svery possible to be accepted,” he beams.Ishizaka believes the future is bright foreveryone—especially in his city.LINGO BOXTayōsei ( 多 様 性 )= diversityShōsū-ha ( 少 数 派 )= minority groupGi-kai gi-in ( 議 会 議 員 )= councillorDō-sei ai-sha ( 同 性 愛 者 )=homosexual personKyōiku ( 教 育 )= education16

PULL-OUT GUIDEPROMOTIONAL SPECIALNAKANOBEATSHOP THEBLOCK AT THEHEART OFSUBCULTURE17

NAKANO SPECIALBRIGHT LIGHTS,BEST BUYSNakano is a study in contrasts: here,octogenarian grannies haul shoppingcarts toe-to-toe with quirkilydressed young fashionistas, eachvying for a bargain. Manga megaplexes attracthordes of otaku, and not far away, worshipersrock up to a venerable temple to pray. Nakanoward is heady with youth; its population’s highestage concentration is in young adults in their20s and 30s, situated as it is close to three majoruniversities—Waseda, Teikyo Heisei and Meiji—as well as several smaller institutions. But this isnot a place overrun solely with young whippersnappers;coexistence prevails here.The area running from Nakano station northto Arai Yakushi Bashoin temple encompassesNakano’s main arteries, a network of shoppingstreets and arcades buzzing with activity. Tothe northwest of the station, Nakano CentralPark is a gathering place and green space,flanked with restaurants and flecked with picnickers.Sun Mall, due north of the station, is a long,glass-covered arcade running for severalblocks and filled with over a hundred shops andrestaurants on either side of the walkway. Theshopping street bustles with busy consumersand window shoppers, who can flit or meanderfrom store to store without fear of foul weather.Reaching the end of Sun Mall, NakanoBroadway looms: a brightly lit behemothpulsing with action. Bargains abound—a newdress for ¥500, socks and leggings for pocketchange—while the raucous sounds of arcadesand purikura reverberate down the narrow corridors.On the upper floors is a nerd mecca:comic books, cosplay and toys compete forspace in this noisy, colorful, mishmash of ashopping center.Beyond Broadway, a slightly more sedatebut no less interesting center of consumer cultureis found in Ai Road, a stretch lined withtasteful shops and pretty lanterns whose themechanges according to the season. Here, traditionalgenerations-old shops share perimeterswith new kids on the block. This is the spot topick up those daily goods and gifts that are stillsold in specialty shops by people who knowwhat they’re doing. “Aji ga aru,” you might say:this place has flavor.Only minutes away from Shinjuku, butentirely with its own character, Nakano is atasty mix of old and new. Sample the sightsand sounds, see the street life and feel theheartbeat.Welcome to Nakano!NAKANO BROADWAYJACK ROAD3FRolex, Hermès, Patek Philippe, Chanel; Casio,Seiko, Citizen; Bulgari, Tag Heuer, Omega.Watch faces gleam from every corner as thesmartly besuited staff tick off the merits ofthis piece or that to the well-heeled customers.Jack Road carries new, used and antiquewatches for men; its sister store just across theaisle, Betty Road, does the same for women.The shop, opened in 1987, started as an antiqueshop but soon homed in on wristwatches,and now serves an international clientelesearching for that special something. With over3,000 pieces, you’re sure to find something,whether you’re searching for a handsome andfunctional piece or a rare collector’s item. Tel:03-3386-9399. www.jackroad.co.jp18

NAKANO SPECIALNAKANO BROADWAYMORE INFO ONLINE →METURL.COM/NAKANOBW4FPONYPony is the only actual toy shop in NakanoBroadway. While there are many stores thatsell toys, those toys are mainly second-handand collectable items sold to a predominantlyadult customer base. Pony sells a huge varietyof new toys to children and parents, though theshop does have wares that cater to hobbyists’stastes as well. The only shop in the center thatstocks new official Studio Ghibli plush toys andaccessories, Pony is a fun and fascinating placeto visit. Tel: 03-3387-74512FANIME SHOP COMMITBefore the animation world moved to digital, creatingmany of Japan’s most famous titles was apainstaking process that involved painting thousandsof individual cellophane sheets, or cels,which were then filmed. These cels were oftensold to collectors at the end of an anime’s productionrun. Anime Shop Commit is the last shopin Japan dedicated to selling cells directly to customers.It has a massive selection that includesthe most famous anime titles from the 1980s and1990s. Going through the inventory, however,takes some time, so be prepared to search longand hard for your original piece of anime history.Tel: 03-3389-8809. www.commit.co.jp3FPRINT MOUSEPrint Mouse is a print shop specializing inprinting onto hard plastic products. Customerscan bring in any image they want or usethe shop’s computer to search for somethingto be printed onto iPhone and iPad cases,keyboards, mobile battery chargers or simpleplastic sheets (up to A3 size). Prints are photoquality and full color. Customers may alsocreate a custom layout with a number of imagesand typography. Print Mouse’s in-housedesigners can sit with a customer to ensurethe final print is tailored specifically to theway he or she wants it. Tel: 03-5942-6066print-mouse.com1FPLABBITOpened in April 2014, Plabbit is one the newestshops in Nakano Broadway. Plabbit creates,assembles and customizes plastic Gundammodels. From simply adding panel gap linesto full-chrome electroplating, complete custompaint-jobs, metal accessories and custommodifications, there’s no limit to what customerscan order to make their model unique. Theturnaround time for custom work is upward ofa month, but for customers who can’t or don’twant to wait, Plabbit also sells a selection ofpre-built custom models at its showroom. Whilethe custom models aren’t cheap, each exampleis truly a one-of-a-kind master artwork. Tel: 03-5942-5629. http://plabbit.ocnk.netTANSU-YAKimono are the most famous example of Japanesefashion. While they’re fairly easy to findin Japan, they are also prohibitively expensiveand often require specific fitting sessions. Tansu-yasells high-quality used kimono. As withmost second-hand goods in Japan, “used” isa relative term for kimono, as they are oftenwell cared-for. Prices, however, are a fractionof the cost of brand-new kimono, making thoseat Tansu-ya excellent value. Tansu-ya also sellsa selection traditional Japanese clothes andaccessories that make perfect souvenirs. Tel:03-5318-5291. http://tansuya.jp1FB1FDAILY CHIKOHome of the famousrainbow soft-servetower cone, DailyChiko has been in NakanoBroadway sincethe center opened. Theshop serves eight flavors,three of which are seasonal.There are threesize options to choosefrom. The small and mediumallow customerschoose their flavors, butthe large is the rainbowtower that stacks alleight. It takes more thansix months to master theart of building the mightytower. But with great icecream comes great responsibility:if a customer drops hisor her beast of a cone, there isno refill! Daily Chiko suggestsusing a spoon and taking extraspecial care while eating. Tel:03-3386-4461. http://twitter.com/Dailychiko19

NAKANO SPECIALMANDARAKEMORE INFO ONLINE →METURL.COM/MANDARAKEMASTERSOF TIMEMandarake (pronounced “man-dah-rah-keh”) isa chain of stores that specializes in buying andreselling Japanese pop culture merchandise.Starting from its humble beginnings as a usedcomic store in Nakano Broadway, Mandarakehas grown to 11 branches around the country, aninternational online store and a mind-bending25 individual stores in Nakano Broadway itself.Each store targets a specific niche and isstaffed by people who are active members ofthat niche, sharing their customers’s passionsand providing more personalized service. Thereare also international staff who speak English,Chinese and other languages.HEN-YAOn the fourth floor,Hen-ya transportscustomers back intime through its brightred torii-inspired portal.Hen-ya has aselection of tin toysthat date back beforeWorld War II, as well as other iconic toys andnostalgic goods from every decade of modernJapanese history.MANIA-KANOn the fourth floor, Mania-kan has select vintagecomic books and magazines, including originalprinted editions of “father of manga” Osamu Tezuka’swork. Mania-kan also stocks limited-printbooks and classic bonus material art books. It’san astounding glimpse into the history of manga.COSPLAYOn the second floor,Cosplay sells a selectionof handmade, oftenonce-off costumes thatwere made by actualcosplayers. Becausethe majority of thesecostumes are unused,customers can’t try them on for size until theycommit to the purchase so as to preserve thecostumes’s quality.PLASTICOn the fourth floor,Plastic is dedicated todolls and toys for girls.The shop stocks a selectionof poseable,customizable dolls,like Dolfie and SD, aswell as original SailorMoon and Barbie dolls from every generation.ANIME-KANAlso on the fourthfloor, Anime-kan hasa small but extremelyrare selection of animationcels, originalartwork and signedsketches from famouscharacter designersand animators. Anumber of its rarest items are auctioned off toMandarake’s online Everyday Auction, so theselection is constantly changing.A TRULY SPECIALCOLLECTIONMandarake’s most popular stores with bothJapanese and international customers are itsSpecial stores. Each store caters to specific typesof figurines and models. On the second floor,Special 4 delivers doe-eyed damsels to collectorsof bishōjo (beautiful girl) figurines. Special 5 stocksa selection of Japanese and Western superheroand movie-themed action figures and statues. Theoriginal Special has an assortment of classic toys,including Transformers and that quintessentialJapanese pop culture icon, Godzilla. On the thirdfloor, Special 2 serves up Japanese Tokusatsuseries, including Kamen Rider products. Special 3sells Japanese manga representative of modernpop culture, such as Dragon Ball and Saint Seiya.Among Mandarake’s stores dedicated tomanga are some that specialize in gender-specificpublications, while a classic games store boasts acollection of Japanese titles across every classicgame console system. Other Mandarake shopsinclude a trading card store, a model car store,J-Pop and K-Pop stores, and an anime video & CDstore.While the specialization of Mandarake’s 25shops in Nakano Broadway means customers cansave time by focusing their efforts on the things thatmost appeal to them, the sheer number, diversity,and representative history of items in each placemakes Mandarake more than just a chain of storesselling second-hand pop culture: together, theyform a time capsule dedicated to preserving andsharing that culture with fans around the world of allgenerations.⊲Tel: ⊲ 03-3228-0007⊲nakano@mandarake.co.jp⊲⊲www.mandarake.co.jp⊲20

NAKANO SPECIALSUNMALLFUJIYA CAMERAFujiya Camera specializes exclusively in cameras,and stocks a wide selection of new andused equipment from all major manufacturers.Staff are friendly and knowledgeable—many areamateur, if not semi-professional, photographersthemselves. Fujiya Camera actually has threestores in close proximity on a side street off ofSun Mall. Across from its main two-story shopis a smaller “junk” shop with recycled cameraparts and components for sale. The third shopsells used camera equipment, such as tripodsand storage bags, at substantial discounts alongwith new items. Customers can even trade intheir existing camera equipment on the spot tosave money when upgrading. All three shops areduty free for travelers, and definitely worth a trip!5-61-1 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-5318-2241. www.fujiya-camera.co.jpMARUZEN“Made in Japan” is the key theme of thisshop, which sells tableware and other decorativehousehold items. The shelves arebrimming with domestically produced andoccasionally handmade bowls, cups, smalldishes, and—perhaps more unique in thismodern age—a wide selection of traditionalJapanese teapots and vessels for sake. Maruzen’sproducts are mostly ceramic, but alsoinclude glass, wood and plastic. Productsthat are particularly popular among foreignvisitors are little statues of Japanese raccoonsknown as tanuki, or the beckoningmaneki-neko cat statues, as well as chopsticksand cartoon-themed tableware.5-67-12 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-3387-0882.ROBOYou might be forgiven for thinking you’vetraveled back in time after walking into Robo:most of the decor hasn’t changed since thisJapanese pub, or izakaya, opened in 1961.The cozy establishment of seven seats offerspatrons something very unusual in modernJapan: the chance to drink sake poured directlyfrom a traditional keg, or taru. Customerscan also create their own customorders, such as requesting fresh vegetablesto be cooked on Robo’s authentic charcoalgrill. Don’t be perturbed by the lack of priceson the wall menu—checks average around¥3,000.5-55-17 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-3387-0646.TSUJIYATsujiya is a family-owned business that hasbeen supplying shoes to Nakano visitorsacross many generations, tracing its historyback to 1926. The shop is an excellentplace to find a set of traditional footwear toaccompany Japanese garments like kimonoor yukata, even offering large-size geta sandalsto accommodate foreigners with largerfeet. There’s also a variety of modern shoes,including the styles of boots that are quitepopular with the cosplay crowd. Tsujiya alsostocks a wide made-in-Japan selection ofsturdy, storm-resistant umbrellas along withtraditional wood and paper parasols.5-60-8 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-3388-5123. www.nakano-tujiya.comUMEYABrowsing the shops in Nakano’s Sun Mall isbound to work up your appetite, and Umeya isa convenient place to enjoy a simple light mealor sumptuous Japanese sweets. This small restaurantwith 20 seats was founded in 1956, andalthough the menu has since expanded, thirdgenerationoperator Momoko Okamura still followsher grandmother’s recipes for customerfavorites such as the inari-zushi set (vinegaredrice stuffed in fried tofu slices) and the creamanmitsu (a traditional Japanese dessert withcold agar jelly cubes, boiled red peas, sweetbean paste, various fruits and syrup). Okamurasays her menu is very healthy, as it has vegetarianoptions and limits the use of added sugar.5-58-6 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-3387-2390.WASHIYATempting food smells come wafting from thiscorner store that prepares bento lunch boxesand side dishes—most of which use originalrecipes from when the shop opened in 1948.Every day Washiya offers 10-13 different typesof bento boxes featuring either fish, chickenor pork as the main entrée. The bento boxesare inexpensive, with a tax-inclusive price ofapproximately ¥500 making them popularfor workers in nearby offices as well as localswho prefer not to cook for themselves. Customerscan also self-select from nearly 100varieties of side dishes, paying by weight fortheir desired amount.5-63-5 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-5345-5061. www.e-washiya.co.jp21

NAKANO SPECIALAI ROADMORE INFO ONLINE →METURL.COM/AIROADARAI YAKUSHI BAISHOIN TEMPLEThe Arai Yakushi Baishoin temple is an anchorof the community as a place to pray and aplace to gather (it’s especially busy duringNew Year, Setsubun, and hanami season).There’s a well tap here where neighborhooddenizens come to freely fill up water bottleswith spring water to take home and use for teaand cooking. Kindergarteners troop throughthe courtyard on their daily walk, and olderfolks stop to chat near the incense urn afterpaying their respects at the altar, a smallgraveyard holding ancestors nearby.As the story goes, during the Edo era, oneof the Tokugawa shoguns had a daughter withfailing vision. She came to this temple to pray,and soon after was miraculously healed. Today,the temple is known for healing poor eyesight,and people come from far and wide to pray tothe medicine Buddha, known as Yakushi Nyorai,who is protected by 12 fierce and colorful guardshewn from the same tree. Believers also cometo pick up omamori, talismans meant to healbad eyes and more. Legend says that one ofthe reasons nearby Ai Road was so named wasbecause of the “eye” homophone.5-3-5 Arai, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-3386-1355. www.araiyakushi.or.jpKANEKOEN TEAKanekoen knows tea. This family-run tea companynow has 58 shops, mostly in the Kantoarea, each run by a member of the Ichikawaclan. The Nakano shop has been on Ai Roadsince 1935, and the current Mr. Ichikawa is athe second-generation manager. Its tea, whichis entirely domestically grown, comes mostlyfrom Shizuoka and Kyushu, including its ownnearly 400-year-old tea plantation. The shop’sown blend, called aracha, is its biggest seller—a boldly flavored green tea with an underlyingsweetness. The shop also has tea accoutrementssuch as teapots and canisters, and theknowledgeable proprietors can elucidate teacharacteristics and brewing tips. 1-32-3 Arai,Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-3386-4426.KOTOBUKI YU ONSENOnsen in the middle of Nakano? Casual visitorsmay not know it, but Nakano is built atopa natural spring, and this bathhouse—the onlyone in Nakano to tap the spring—draws onthe restorative waters to provide an onsen experienceright in the middle of the city! ThisShowa-era establishment opened in 1951, andMr. Kobayashi is the second-generation owner.He says his onsen is frequented by studentsfrom the surrounding universities and youngsalaried workers, but he welcomes everyoneto come and use the baths; kids are welcome,as are tattooed people and international folks.Open from 4pm-1:30am, the bathhouse alsoboasts a sauna and comic book reading room.Relax, refresh, revitalize. 1-14-13 Arai, Nakanoku,Tokyo. Tel: 03-3387-2047SAKAMOTO MISOAt Sakamoto Miso, tubs of the fermented pasteline the walls and march down the middle ofthe shop, which has been standing here sincethe 1950s. Here you can find over 40 varietiesof miso from all over Japan. Whether it’ssoybean-, rice- or wheat-based, red, white ormixed, smooth or chunky, the shop owners,who have been certified as “miso sommeliers,”can help you find the perfect miso foryour taste and occasion. Missing a flavor fromanother prefecture? Want tips on a lighter, fulleror differently textured miso? This is the place.And if you don’t know what to get, try the tastyawase-miso—the shop’s own miso blend is itstop seller.1-29-8 Arai, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-3386-2862. http://sakamoto-miso.comWAKA UDONThe newly opened Waka restaurant lookslike a stylish cafe—and it is—but its specialtyis making sanuki udon by day, turning into asashimi and grilled-food izakaya by night (theudon is still available, of course). Mr. Omori,who grew up eating sanuki udon when he visitedhis grandmother in Kagawa, is careful touse ingredients and flavors from the region;the noodles are made on-site from flour importedfrom Kagawa prefecture, while Shikokuocean products, such as kombu and iriko, arealso used to flavor the dishes. Try the shop’sbest seller: kakiage udon, a piping-hot bowlof chewy noodles swimming in flavorful dashi,with a crispy heap of mixed tempura to put ontop. Itadakimasu! 1-8-7 Arai, Nakano-ku, Tokyo.Tel: 03-6312-6232.22

NAKANO SPECIALNAKANO SUN PLAZAMORE INFO ONLINE →METURL.COM/SUNPLAZAJAPANESERESTAURANT“NAKANO”At the top of the triangle,Sun Plaza’s 20th floor ishome to two restaurants.Located just to the rightafter exiting the elevatoris the elegant Japaneserestaurant Nakano. Itsview overlooks the Nerimaside of Tokyo, and reservationsfor window-side tables fillup fast. On a clear day, patrons canspot the faraway Mount Asamaand Mount Tsukuba. Or ask fora counter seat where youcan watch the cooks skillfullyprepare your order.This restaurant servesall types of Japanesefood, including sushi,soba noodles, tempuraand grilled fish. The artfullyarranged hanakobakozen,which are bowls setin small boxes, are a popularfavorite for lunch.RESTAURANT “121DINING”121 Dining is also located onthe 20th floor of the SunPlaza building, occupyingthe side that overlooks theShinjuku skyscraper district.Just as with restaurantNakano, this is the highestvantage point from which toenjoy fine dining in the Nakanoarea, and offers excellent food and anequally appealing view—particularly at nightwhen Tokyo’s concrete jungle turns into a shim-mering wonderland.121 Dining is officially a Frenchrestaurant, but the menuoffers a range of Westernstyledishes that include itsspecialty roast beef, as wellas salads and spaghetti. Orderingà la carte is also possible,with three to four differentoptions each for appetizersand meat dishes.121 Dining and Nakano restaurants areopen daily 11:30am-2:30pm (lunch), 5-10pm(dinner). Tel: 03-3388-1150.SUN PLAZA HOTELFew people may realize thatan 83-room hotel occupiesfloors 16-19 atop the distinctive,triangular Sun Plazabuilding, a stone’s throw fromNakano station’s north exit.Nakano lacks the high skyscraperscommon in otherpopulated parts of Tokyo,leaving the view of Hotel SunPlaza’s surrounding environslargely unobstructed.Even though Sun Plaza itselfis over 40 years old, thehotel’s rooms have been remodeledto be clean and modern. The hotelmostly offers Western rooms in various layoutsof standard single rooms, double rooms andtwin rooms. Many guest rooms on the side facingShinjuku have small sofas upon which tosit and enjoy the expansive view, while singlerooms on the building’s other side are complementedwith electronic massage chairs.Japanese-style rooms with tatami mats andfutons are also available. These rooms lookout upon the 16th floor’s small Japanese garden,complete with trees and raked gravel.You would hardly know you’re in a large citycenter; the garden obscures the commotion ofthe streets below and creates an atmosphereof serenity akin to a Japanese inn, or ryokan.All rooms have Wi-Fi, and guests of thehotel can also use Sun Plaza’s pool and gymfacilities for a nominal fee.4-1-1 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-3388-1177. www.sunplaza.jpCONCERT HALLSun Plaza has various other features, includingbanquet rooms and recreational facilities,but it is best known as a concert venue. Itsspacious performance hall features excellentacoustics and includes four levels with a totalof 2,222 seats (a purely coincidental number,we are told). The concert hall helped form theentertainment connection to nearby NakanoBroadway by hosting numerous concerts,including world-famous orchestras and musicalperformers—Bob Marley even had a gig.Nowadays the concert hall ties into Nakano’sotaku culture with regular performances byJ-pop group Morning Musume as well asanime-related music and events.Tel: 03-3388-289323

MAPHEIWAPARKSTREETARAI YAKUSHIBAISHOINKANNANADORINAKANO DORIAI ROADMIZUHOBANKNAKANOGYMNASIUMNAKANOSUN PLAZANAKANOWARD OFFICENAKANO BROADWAYSUNMALLARCADENAKANO NORTHEXIT ICHIBANGAIWASEDA DORINAKANO KYORITSUHOSPITALNORTH EXITNAKANO STATIONJR CHUO LINETOKYO METRO TŌZAI LINE/ JR CHUO LINENAVIGATE THE NICHES OF NAKANONAKANO BROADWAY OFFICE5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano-ku, TokyoTel: 03-3388-7004www.nbw.jpYAKUSHI AI ROAD OFFICE1-22-6 Arai, Nakano-ku, TokyoTel: 03-6454-0070www.ai-road.comNAKANO SUNMALL OFFICE5-67-1 Nakano, Nakano-ku, TokyoTel:03-3387-3586NAKANO SUN PLAZA4-1-1 Nakano, Nakano-ku, TokyoTel: 03-3388-1151www.sunplaza.jp

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arts&cultureJAPAN BEATS O N I CK A L E I D OS C O P EShuta Hasunuma’s musical polymorphismBY DAN GRUNEBAUMA revealing fact about Japan is that its avantgardearts scene is often more widely acclaimedabroad than at home. From butoh dance to noisemusic to the post-war Gutai art movement, thebiggest recognition often comes overseas.“It’s frustrating that Japanese culture is oftenbest presented, or artworks purchased, by Westernfans and collectors,” says young musicianShuta Hasunuma. “The Japanese art scene isfrequently late to recognize the value of movementslike Gutai. There was a lot of activity inJapan in the ’60s but it took American curatorsto shine a spotlight on it. Japanese galleriessimply follow in their wake.”Happily, that’s not the case for Hasunuma,a self-taught composer of intricate electronicand chamber music scores whose works areacclaimed both at home and abroad. Hasunumaspeaks from New York, where he’s on a sixmonthAsian Cultural Council study fellowship.“NYC has a greater variety and deeper historyof experimental music than Tokyo,” he explainsabout his overseas residency. “So I wanted toexperience it for myself.”Hasunuma had what he calls a typical upbringingin the home of a Saitama salaryman.There was no inkling of his progressive leaningsin his early studies on electone, or later fondnessfor J-pop and then American skate punk.“I never went to music school,” Hasunumasays about his background. “I thought aboutapplying to a music college—but there are goodand bad points to being taught. I felt like even if Iwent to a music college, I probably wouldn’t bea very good student, so I decided to do musicmyself. I did go to college, but I just had my nosein art books the whole time.”Hasunuma’s explorations gradually led himto electronic music and classical composers.Early recognition came for his subtle electroniccompositions, which are often constructedaround field recordings. “I listened to a lot ofsampled pop music, but I like the field recordingto remain prominent in the piece,” he says abouthis working process. “John Cage is definitely abig influence, and the ‘happenings’ of the ’60s.But I’m also influenced by what was happeningin Japan. Cage came to Japan, and there wasa relationship with Japanese composers likeToru Takemitsu.”More recently, Hasunuma shifted his focusaway from the laptop to live instruments. His PhilharmonicOrchestra strides a fine line betweenso-called “new music” and pop. The group hasgenerated substantial praise, mounting stagessuch as Tokyo Opera City and Spiral Hall.“I was approached with an offer to do a largescaleperformance,” he recalls. “I rearrangedall my pieces for live instruments. We wouldperform once a year, but as our repertoire increased,we ended up releasing an album anddoing a nationwide tour. As a composer, I’minterested in the pitches and timbres of instruments,and pushing the limits of instruments.Field recordings are limitless, but with my currentwork I’m exploring expression inside limits. Still,when you have a large ensemble, then you havea lot of colors to work with.”Hasunuma says if he has the means, he wantsto investigate as wide a range of expression aspossible. Given that his music strikes home withfans both of avant-garde composers like ToruTakemitsu and poppier figures such as RyuichiSakamoto, and that his talent has been recognizedwith an elite fellowship, those means lookincreasingly within reach.“For me, music teaches us how to live,” heconcludes. “I’m always learning from it, andit’s a way for me to know the world. It’s also mylivelihood. I feel really lucky.”www.shutahasunuma.com26

ARTTHE DARKARTSEnter Tim Burton’s worldof gothic quirkBY C.B. LIDDELLBlue Girl with Wine c.1997 28 x 22" Oil on canvasThere are verbal people and there are visualones. The first come across as slicker and morepersuasive; the latter often think in images andcome across as shy. But when all is “said anddrawn,” the visual person usually turns out tobe significantly more imaginative, creative andinnovative.OK, that’s enough cod psychology and badpuns for one art review; the point is, world-famousfilm director Tim Burton, the subject of thelatest exhibition at the Mori Arts CenterGallery, is definitely a visual person parexcellence.The man who gave us such memorablefilms as Edward Scissorhands,The Nightmare Before Christmas andCharlie and the Chocolate Factoryclearly sees himself this way.“For me, drawings have alwaysbeen a way of thinking—a form of communicating,”Burton told a press conferenceearlier this year. “I was never avery good speaker, talker, so I alwaysfound it was easier for me to communicatethrough drawing.” He divulgedthat he used to hide in the closet formost of the day when he worked as ananimator at Disney.An art exhibition based on mostother directors would be boring—butone based on the works of Burton isa different matter. The success of hismovies hinges on their unusual lookand innovative, eye-catching artworkand design. In an age when moviesget too wordy, Burton’s oeuvre is awelcome antidote.This show is a compact, roadworthyversion of a massively successful exhibit held atthe Museum of Modern Art in New York in 2009,which drew 800,000 visitors.Despite being somewhat scaled down, it stillincludes some 500 items, from props and artwork—suchas storyboards and designs connectedto his hit movies—to drawings for unrealizedprojects, comics he drew before his fame, travelsketches and his “personal etchings.”So, what is the Burton Aesthetic? A mixture ofthe gothic and the quirky, the carnivalesque andThe Last of Its Kind 1994 20 x 16" Acrylic on canvasthe grotesque. There are occasional elementsof the banal and mundane—like the simplisticcorporate feminist narrative of rich Victoriana inAlice in Wonderland—but only because Burton’ssuccess has often almost unwillingly pushed himinto the mainstream. However, even in his mosttedious blockbusters like Batman or Planet ofthe Apes, there are always touches of his undergroundaesthetic to “darken things up” a bit.The essence of Burton is a nerdy, shy quality offeeling not quite at home in a world that can’t liveDevil Dog 2014 15 x 16x 15" Mixed mediaUntitled (Edward Scissorhands) 1990 11 x 9"Pen and ink and colored pencil on paperFOR ME, DRAWINGSHAVE ALWAYSBEEN A WAY OFTHINKING—A FORM OFCOMMUNICATING.”up to its expansive and over-optimistic slogans,and of seeing everything in a twisted, ironic anddarkly humorous way.It’s this sense and aesthetic that resonatesdeeply with modern audiences, and plays especiallywell to Japanese “goth-loli” sensibilities.Some of the visitors are guaranteed to be just asinteresting an attraction as the artwork.Nov 1-Jan 4. ¥500-1,800. Mori Arts Center Gallery,52F Roppongi Hills Mori Bldg, Minato-ku.Roppongi. www.tim-burton.jpAll Images © 2014 Tim Burton27

agendaWATCH LISTConcertsPOPULARHostess Club WeekenderThe latest edition of promoterHostess’s thrice-year indie rockfest is headlined by Kaiser Chiefsand Team Me. Nov 2-3. ¥13,900.Studio Coast. Shin-Kiba. Tel:03-6809-1070. http://ynos.tv/hostessclub/CJ RamoneFormer bassist and sometimesvocalist of the Ramones goessolo. Nov 4, 7pm, ¥5,800 (adv)+1d. Club Quattro. Shibuya.Tel: 03-3477-8750. http://ltike.comTom Vek Special JapanShowUnderground indie rock hero’sfirst live show in Japan. Nov4, 4:30pm, ¥4,500 (adv)/¥5,000 (door). Tsutaya O-Nest.Shibuya. Tel: 03-3462-4420.http://alive.muThe GazetteVisual-kei rockers. Nov 7,6:30pm, ¥6,480 (adv) +1d.Club Citta. Kawasaki. Tel:044-246-8888. www.clubcitta.co.jpPuffyEnergetic and eclectic J-popduo. Nov 8, 6pm, ¥5,400 (adv)+1d. Ex Theater Roppongi.Roppongi or Nogizaka. www.ex-theater.comKyary Pamyu PamyuPop princess of super kawaiiproportions. Nov 8, 5pm; Nov9, 3pm, ¥6,500 (adv) +1d.Yoyogi National Gymnasium.Meiji-Jingumae. http://l-tike.comBack Drop Bomb20th anniversary performance.Nov 9, 7pm, ¥3,000 (adv).Shelter. Shimokitazawa.Tel: 03-3444-6751. http://backdropbomb.jpMr. Big‘80s rock group from LosAngeles. Nov 10, 7pm, ¥8,300-9,300. Nippon Budokan.Kudanshita. http://meturl.com/big14Nathan EastFounding member of thechart-topping contemporaryjazz group Fourplay consideredone of the most recorded bassplayers in the history of music.Nov 10, 11 & 13, 7 & 9:30pm,¥6,800-8,800. Billboard Live.Roppongi. http://nathaneast.comJason MrazCoffee-house singersongwriter.Nov 11, 7pm,¥8,000 (adv) +1d. BunkamuraOrchard Hall. Shibuya.Tel: 03-5353-9522. www.smash-jpn.comRick AstleyEnglish singer-songwriterreturns to rickroll Japan. Nov12-Nov 13. 7pm, ¥7,800-¥8,800. Bunkamura OrchardHall. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5353-9522. http://meturl.com/astley20141EyEDManTokyo-based group withcatchy Brit-pop/rock tunes andlyrics. Nov 14, 7pm, ¥3,000.Tsutaya O-Nest.03-3462-4420. http://l-tike.com/Shibuya. Tel:Knot Fest JapanSlipknot, Limp Bizkit, Korn andothers. Nov 15, noon; Nov 16,noon, ¥14,000 (1 day, adv)/¥27,000 (adv, 2days). MakuhariMesse. Kaihin-Makuhari.www.knotfestjapan.com9mm Parabellum BulletPost-hardcore band fromYokohama. Nov 15, 6:30pm,¥3,800 (adv) +1d. Club Citta.Kawasaki. Tel: 050-5533-0888. www.clubcitta.co.jpRock in OppositionJapan 2014Originally a movement ofprogressive bands unitedin their opposition to themusic industry that refusedto recognize their music,featuring artists PicchioDal Pozzo and Present. Nov15-16. 3pm, ¥14,000 (seated)/¥10,500 (standing). O-East.Shibuya. Tel: 03-3444-6751.www.rockinopposition-japan.comThe Ben Folds OrchestraExperienceBen Folds plays his pophits arranged for orchestralperformance. Nov 17, 7pm;Nov 18, 7pm, ¥10,000-11,000.Bunkamura Orchard Hall.Shibuya. Tel: 03-5353-9522.meturl.com/ben14The Inspector CluzoGasconha Rock Tour 2014 inJapan. Nov 20, 7pm, ¥5,600(adv) +1d. Club Quattro.Shibuya. Tel: 03-3444-6751. http://meturl.com/theinspectorcluzo2014Zettai Blend No.5DieByForty, Rock n'Flow,MissTress and AstroAttack(Kobe). Nov 22, 7pm, . AkasakaCrawfish. Akasaka. Tel:03-3584-2496. http://crawfish.jpYesEnglish prog rock withsymphonic undertones. Nov23, 5pm; Nov 24, 5pm; Nov25, 7pm, ¥8,000-9,000. TokyoDome City Hall. Suidobashi.Tel: 0570-09-3333. http://meturl.com/yes14The Three DegreesAmerican female vocal groupresponsible for the major hitrecord “When Will I See YouAgain.” Nov 25-29, varioustimes, ¥8,000-10,500. CottonClub. Tokyo. http://meturl.com/threedegrees2014Aqua TimezJ-rock group that has pennedseveral anime and dramaopening tunes. Nov 30,5pm, ¥5,500 (adv). TokyoInternational Forum Hall A.Yurakucho. www.aquatimez.comTomoyasu HoteiJapanese rock icon. Nov 30,5:30pm, ¥7,800 (adv) +1d. NHKHall. Shibuya. Tel: 03-3465-1751. http://l-tike.comLoft Music & CultureFestivalA Flood of Circle, RadioCaroline, The Birthday andmore. Nov 30, 1:30pm,¥3,969 (adv) +1d. Club Citta.Kawasaki. Tel: 044-246-8888. www.loft-prj.co.jp/loftfesCountry YardJapanese punk-rock groupwho have been supportingacts for bands No Use For AName, The Get Up Kids andRufio. Dec 6, 1pm, ¥2,800(adv)+1d. Yokohama Bay Hall.Motomachi-Chukagai. Tel:03-3444-6751. http://meturl.com/countryyard2014Art GarfunkelFolk artist, poet and onehalf of legendary duo Simon& Garfunkel. Dec 10, 7pm;Dec 12, 7pm, ¥9,000-10,000. Shibuya Public Hall.Shibuya. Tel: 0570-09-3333. http://meturl.com/garfunk14Man with a MissionWolves in men's clothing playrap rock. Dec 20, 5pm, ¥4,700(adv) +1d. Saitama SuperArena. Saitama-Shintoshin.www.creativeman.co.jpH Zett MJapanese keyboardist andproducer formerly part of thejazz instrumental band Pe'z.Dec 20, 2 & 7pm, ¥4,000.Mori no Hall. Hashimoto.Tel: 042-742-9999. www.worldapart.co.jp/hzettm/Glory Gospel SingersNew York-based ensemblewho have performed atCarnegie Hall and haveappeared on stage with DianaRoss, Whitney Houston andAretha Franklin. Dec 21, 2 &6pm, ¥2,000-7,000. ShibuyaPublic Hall. Shibuya. Tel:03-3402-9911. www.tate.jpRyoji IkedaJapanese sound artistwhose music is concernedprimarily with sound in avariety of “raw” states, oftenusing frequencies at theedges of the range of humanhearing. Dec 21, 5 & 7:30pm,one performance ¥3,000(adv)/ ¥3,500 (door), bothperformances ¥5,000. LaforetMuseum. Meiji-Jingumae.Tel: 03-3475-0411. www.laforet.ne.jpThe Ska FlamesJapanese ska band who hasperformed with legendarymusicians such as PrinceBuster and The Skatalites.Dec 23, 5:30pm, ¥3,500(adv)/ ¥3,800 (door) +1d. DuoMusic Exchange. Shibuya.Tel: 03-3444-6751. www.skaflames.jpJAZZ/WORLDThe Vanguard JazzOrchestraBig band jazz. Oct 30, 7 &9:30pm; Oct 31, 7 & 9:30pm;Nov 1, 6 & 9pm, ¥6,800-8,800.Billboard Live. Roppongi.Tel: 03-3405-1133. www.billboard-live.comCarlos Kanno TropicalSuperjamLatin jazz. Nov 2, 5:30 &7:30pm, ¥4,500-24,000.Motion Blue. Bashamichi.Tel: 045-226-1919. www.motionblue.co.jpPlatina Jazz OrchestraPresented by Rasmus Faber.Nov 4, 7 & 9:30pm; Nov 5,7 & 9:30pm, ¥6,500-8,500.Billboard Live. Roppongi.Tel: 03-3405-1133. www.billboard-live.comTommy CampbellFinal Japan tour. Nov 6, 7& 9pm, ¥4,200-22,800.Motion Blue. Bashamichi.Tel: 045-226-1919. www.motionblue.co.jpSeiji IgusaAcoustic guitar solo live. Nov8, 2 & 3pm, ¥2,000. Softwind.Roppongi. Tel: 03-6808-7337. www.softwind.jpAkane Matsumoto MeetsHideaki KanazawaAfternoon jazz live. Nov 9,2 & 3pm, ¥2,500. Softwind.Roppongi. Tel: 03-6808-7337. www.softwind.jpTokyo Crossover/JazzFestivalWith Kyoto Jazz Massive's20th Anniversary Special LiveSet featuring Navasha Daya,Vanessa Freeman and others.Nov 9, 1-10pm, ¥8,000-9,000(adv) +1d/ ¥8,500-9,500 (door)+1d. Ex Theater Roppongi.Roppongi or Nogizaka.Tel: 03-5481-6092. www.tokyocrossoverjazzfestival.jp/2014/Jiro YoshidaJapan tour 2014. Nov 10, 6:30& 9pm, ¥6,800-9,000. CottonClub. Tokyo. Tel: 03-3215-1555. www.cottonclubjapan.co.jpJosé FelicianoPuerto Rican virtuoso guitarist,singer and composer knownfor “Feliz Navidad.” Nov 11-13.7pm & 9:30pm, ¥8,800. BlueNote. Omotesando. Tel:03-5485-0088. http://meturl.com/feliciano2014Nelson RangellSmooth jazz. Nov 12, 6:30& 9pm; Nov 13, 6:30 & 9pm;Nov 14, 6:30 & 9pm, ¥7,000-8,000. Cotton Club. Tokyo.Tel: 03-3215-1555. www.cottonclubjapan.co.jpTaeko MoriyamaJapanese jazz drummer. Nov14, 7 & 9pm, ¥4,200-22,800.Motion Blue. Bashamichi.Tel: 045-226-1919. www.motionblue.co.jpToshihiro Nakanishi andSumire KuribayashiJazz instruments. Nov 15,7 & 8pm, ¥3,200. Softwind.Roppongi. Tel: 03-6808-7337. www.softwind.jpAcoustic Life Op.1Album release national tour.Nov 16, 6:30 & 7:45pm,¥2,500. Softwind. Roppongi.Tel: 03-6808-7337. www.softwind.jpAmy Hanaiali’iSinger-songwriter and Hawaii’stop-selling female vocalist ofall time. Nov 18, 6:30pm; Nov19, 9pm, ¥6,500-8,500. CottonClub. Tokyo. Tel: 03-3215-1555. http://meturl.com/amy2014Jim Hall Tribute ProjectNew album and releaseconcert. Nov 19, 7 & 9pm,¥4,200-22,800. Motion Blue.Bashamichi. Tel: 045-226-1919. www.motionblue.co.jpNatalie ColeMontreux Jazz Festival2014. Nov 22, 2pm, ¥4,000-10,000. Muza KawasakiSymphony Hall. Kawasaki.Tel: 044-520-0200. www.kawasaki-sym-hall.jpWinger/SlaughterMontreux Jazz Festival2014. Nov 22, 5pm; Nov 23,5pm, ¥9,500. Club Citta.Kawasaki. Tel: 044-246-8888. www.clubcitta.co.jpHiromiPiano solo live. Nov 23, 2& 3pm, ¥2,000. Softwind.Roppongi. Tel: 03-6808-7337. www.softwind.jpHiroko Kokubu with FriedPrideMontreux Jazz Festival 2014.Nov 24, 2pm, ¥3,500. PlazasolKawasaki. Kawasaki.Tel: 044-874-8501. www.plazasol.jpKoyama Taro GroupMontreux Jazz Festival 2014.Nov 25, 7pm, ¥3,500. PlazasolKawasaki. Kawasaki.Tel: 044-874-8501. www.plazasol.jpKazumi WatanabeMontreux Jazz Festival 2014.Nov 26, 7pm, ¥3,500. PlazasolKawasaki. Kawasaki.Tel: 044-874-8501. www.plazasol.jpYukiarimasa and HaraTomonaoMontreux Jazz Festival 2014.Nov 27, 7pm, ¥3,500. PlazasolKawasaki. Kawasaki.Tel: 044-874-8501. www.plazasol.jpSenzoku Get JazzOrchestraMontreux Jazz Festival 2014.Nov 28, 6:30pm, ¥3,000-5,000. Senzoku GakuenUniversity. Mizonokuchi. Tel:044-856-2727. http://meturl.com/esenzokuBebel GilbertoBrazilian popular singer oftenassociated with bossa nova.Nov 28, 7 & 9:30pm; Nov29-30, 5 & 8pm, ¥8,500. BlueNote. Omotesando. Tel:03-5485-0088. http://meturl.com/gilberto2014Montreux Jazz Solo PianoCompetition FinalMontreux Jazz Festival2014. Nov 29, 2pm, Free.Showa University of Music.Shinyurigaoka. Tel: 044-953-1121.Original PentaboxMontreux Jazz Festival 2014.Nov 30, 2pm, ¥3,000-5,000.Showa University of Music.Shinyurigaoka. Tel: 044-953-1121.Tokyo-Manila Jazz & ArtsFestivalThanksgiving Jazz Concertfor the benefit of youngmusicians’s education andscholarship funds, withTetsuro Kawashima, TotsTolentino and others. Nov 30,6pm, ¥2,000. Akasaka CivicCenter Civic Hall. Aoyama-Ichome. Tel: 5413-2711. http://tmjaf.tokyo/Blue Mountain BoysClassic country and westernand bluegrass. Every thirdSat, 6:30 & 7:30pm, free,Cafe Sepia. Shibuya.Tel: 03-3406-1300. www.nagaremono.com/sepiaCLASSICALMuza Kawasaki SymphonyHall & Tokyo SymphonyOrchestra102nd masterpieces completeworks. Nov 1, 2pm, ¥3,000-6,000. Muza KawasakiSymphony Hall. Kawasaki.Tel: 044-520-0200. www.kawasaki-sym-hall.jpMusic Academy Tokyo 77thMessage ConcertPerformed by The Pupils andLecturers of Music AcademyTokyo. Nov 2, 1pm, Free(Advance application). SuntoryHall. Roppongi-itchome. Tel:0570-55-0017. http://meturl.com/suntoryhallAAR 35th AnniversaryCharity ConcertMezzo-soprano MihokoFujimura’s special recital. Nov3, 2pm, ¥5,000. Tokyo OperaCity Concert Hall. Hatsudaior Shinjuku. Tel: 03-5353-9999. http://operacity.jpThe Silk Road Ensemblewith Yo-Yo Ma15th anniversary. Nov 4, 7pm,¥7,000-22,000. Suntory Hall.Roppongi-itchome. Tel:0570-55-0017. http://meturl.com/suntoryhallNTT east NHK SymphonyOrchestra ConcertConducted by Toshiaki Umeda.Nov 5, 7pm, ¥3,000-5,000.Tokyo Opera City ConcertHall. Hatsudai or Shinjuku.Tel: 03-5353-9999. http://operacity.jpRainer KühlViolin recital. Nov 6, 7pm,¥3,600-4,000. Muza KawasakiSymphony Hall. Kawasaki.Tel: 044-520-0200. www.kawasaki-sym-hall.jpThe 93rd Global ClassicConcertOpera Arias. Nov 7, 7pm,¥3,000-5,000. Tokyo OperaCity Concert Hall. Hatsudaior Shinjuku. Tel: 03-5353-9999. http://operacity.jp28

hot ticketsUNTIL NOV 24Singin’ in the RainMusical adapted from the 1952movie of the same name. Until Nov24, various times, ¥6,500-13,000.Theatre Orb. Shibuya. Tel: 0570-02-9999. http://singinintherain.jp/en/Tickets on sale nowNOV 28-JAN 25Attack on TitanFeaturing the Japanese manga seriesby Hajime Isayama, with real-scaleTitans and a 360-degree experienceof Isayama’s world. Nov 28-Jan 25,¥1,000-2,000. Ueno Royal Museum.Ueno. www.ueno-mori.orgTickets on sale nowNOV 30Festivin 2014Japan’s largest natural wine festival.Nov 30, 12-3:30pm & 4:30-8pm,¥7,000 (adv)/ ¥8,000 (door).Ebis303. Ebisu. Tel: 03-5771-8374.http://festivin.com/Tickets on sale nowDEC 8-10Freddy ColeAmerican jazz singer and pianist andbrother of musician Nat King Cole.Dec 8, midnight; Dec 9, midnight; Dec10, midnight, ¥7,500-9,500. CottonClub. Tokyo. Tel: 03-3215-1555.http://meturl.com/cole2014Tickets on sale nowfor freeNOV 29-30Tokyo Vegefood FestaA food court style annual eventwith around 100 food stands andshops providing various vegefoodrelated foods and goods, includingenvironmentally friendly products.Nov 29-30, 10am-4:30pm, free.Yoyogi Park. Harajuku. http://meturl.com/vegefood2014Disney on ClassicEnjoy Disney’s animationand music performed by anorchestra and Broadwayvocalists, with songs from TheLion King and Frozen. Nov 7,7pm; Nov 8, 2 & 7pm; Nov 9,2pm, ¥5,200-8,300. TokyoInternational Forum Hall A.Yurakucho. Tel: 03-3409-3345. http://meturl.com/disneyonclassicIkuyo NakamichiPiano recital. Nov 8, 2pm,¥1,500-4,000. Saitama ArtsTheater. Yonohonmachi. Tel:0570-064-939. www.saf.or.jp.Feb 8, 2pm, ¥3,000-4,000.Suntory Hall. Roppongiitchome.Tel: 0570-55-0017.http://meturl.com/suntoryhallYurian'na-AvudeewaPiano recital. Nov 8, 2pm,¥5,000-7,000. Muza KawasakiSymphony Hall. Kawasaki.Tel: 044-520-0200. www.kawasaki-sym-hall.jpThe Ninth SymphonyConducted by Zubin Mehta,performed by The IsraelPhilharmonic Orchestra, theBéjart Ballet Company and theTokyo Ballet Company. Nov 8,7pm; Nov 9, 2 & 6pm, ¥4,000-39,000. NHK Hall. Shibuya.Tel: 03-3791-8888. www.nbs.or.jpHisako KawamuraPiano recital. Nov 9, 2pm,¥2,000-6,000. Mori noHall. Hashimoto. Tel:042-775-3811. www.hall-net.or.jp/02hashimotoLe VelvetsClassic elegance in Opera City.Nov 9, 3pm, ¥6,000-9,800.Tokyo Opera City ConcertHall. Hatsudai or Shinjuku.Tel: 03-5353-9999. http://operacity.jpArtists Salon ConcertSeries Volume 190. Nov10, 7:30pm, ¥4,000-5,000.Suntory Hall Blue Rose.Roppongi-itchome. Tel:0570-55-0017. http://meturl.com/suntoryhallEri Tsuchiya Piano RecitalAnnual recital with Steinway.Nov 10, 7pm, ¥3,500(general)/¥6,000 (for two).Matsuo Hall. Yurakuchoor Ginza. Tel: 03-3539-1845.http://meturl.com/hmatsuohallOrchestra dell'AccademiaNazionale di Santa Cecilia,RomaConducted by AntonioPappano. Nov 11, 7pm,¥9,000-33,000. Suntory Hall.Roppongi-itchome. Tel:0570-55-0017. http://meturl.com/suntoryhallChie MoriPiano recital. Nov 12, 7pm,¥3,500. Tokyo Opera CityRecital Hall. Shinjuku orHatsudai. Tel: 03-5353-9999.http://operacity.jpSuntory Hall OperaAcademy PerformanceGaetano Donizetti’s L’elisird’amore. Nov 13, 6:30pm,¥5,000. Suntory Hall.Roppongi-itchome. Tel:0570-55-0017. http://meturl.com/suntoryhallKawasaki Shinkin BankPresentsLunchtime and nightconcert. Nov 14, 12:10 &7pm, ¥500. Muza KawasakiSymphony Hall. Kawasaki.Tel: 044-520-0200. www.kawasaki-sym-hall.jpConcert Hall. Hatsudai orShinjuku. Tel: 03-5353-9999.http://operacity.jpOrchestra Festival 2014Performed by College ofMusic. Nov 16, 3pm; Nov 24,3pm; Dec 6, 3pm; Dec 7, 3pm,¥1,000-3,000. Muza KawasakiSymphony Hall.Tel: 044-520-0200. www.kawasaki-sym-hall.jpKawasaki.The Ben Folds OrchestraExperienceJapan tour 2014. Nov 17, 7pm;Nov 18, 7pm, ¥10,000-11,000.Bunkamura Orchard Hall.Shibuya. Tel: 03-5353-9522.www.bunkamura.co.jpHimikoMemories of the Sun Goddess.Nov 18, 7pm, ¥5,000-9,000.The National SymphonyOrchestra of UkraineConducted by VolodymyrSirenko. Nov 15, 2pm, ¥4,000-8,000. Tokyo Opera CitySuntory Hall. Roppongiitchome.Tel: 0570-55-0017.http://meturl.com/suntoryhallLunchtime Organ ConcertVolume 108 performedby Satoko Kawagoe. Nov20, 12:15pm, ¥500. TokyoMetropolitan Theatre.Ikebukuro. Tel: 03-5391-2111. www.geigeki.jp/englishChisako Takashima12 Violinist: Colors. Nov 21,6:30pm, ¥5,500-6,000.Suntory Hall. Roppongiitchome.Tel: 0570-55-0017.http://meturl.com/suntoryhallNHK Tokyo ChildrenChorusSubscription concert no.43.Nov 22, 6pm, ¥3,000-3,500.Tokyo Opera City ConcertHall. Hatsudai or Shinjuku.Tel: 03-5353-9999. http://operacity.jpYamato String Quartet20th anniversary concert. Nov23, 7pm, ¥4,000. Suntory Hall.Roppongi-itchome. Tel:0570-55-0017. http://meturl.com/suntoryhallThe Horn Quartet Concert2014Performed by MayumiAnzuchi, Tsutomu Isohata, JoKishigami,and Takeshi Hidaka.Nov 25, 7pm, ¥2,500-3,000.Tokyo Opera City RecitalHall. Shinjuku or Hatsudai.Tel: 03-5353-9999. http://operacity.jpNHK Symphony OrchestraSubscription concertNo.1795. Nov 26-27, 7pm,¥3,600-8,800. Conducted byCharles Dutoit. Dec 17, 7pm,¥3,600-8,800. Suntory Hall.Roppongi-itchome. Tel:0570-55-0017. http://meturl.com/suntoryhallLeo NucciBaritone recital. Nov 28, 7pm,¥8,000-19,000. Tokyo OperaCity Concert Hall. Hatsudaior Shinjuku. Tel: 03-5353-9999. http://operacity.jpMichiyoshi InoueWith New Japan Philharmonicand violinist Kyoko Takezawaperforming Brahms. Nov 29,3pm, ¥2,000-6,000. SaitamaKaikan. Urawa. www.saf.or.jpThe 20th PROST SymphonyOrchestraRegular concert. Nov 30, 2pm,¥800-1,000. Muza KawasakiSymphony Hall. Kawasaki.Tel: 044-520-0200. www.kawasaki-sym-hall.jpKanagawa Phil FreshConcertConducted by Shigeo Genda.Dec 1, 2pm, ¥1,000-5,000.Yokohama Minato Mirai Hall.Minatomirai. Tel: 045-682-2020. www.yaf.or.jpStageWonderful State QButoh dancer Temmetsuescapes into his imaginarykingdom. Nov 1, 7:30pm;Nov 2, 1:30 & 6:30pm,¥2,900 (adv)/ ¥3,200 (door).Theater Samsa. Asagaya.Tel: 090-8516-6005. www.temmetsu.comBilingual ComedyAnniversary ShowThe Pirates of Tokyo Baycelebrate four years in Tokyo.Nov 16, 7:30pm, ¥2,500.SuperDeluxe. Roppongi. Tel:03-5412-0515. http://meturl.com/pirates2014The Csárdás PrincessAn operetta in three acts byEmmerich Kalman conductedby Keiko Mitsuhashi. Nov 22,3pm; Nov 23-24, 2pm; Nov26, 2pm, ¥2,000-18,000.Nissay Theatre. Hibiya.Tel: 03-3234-9999. www.nissaytheatre.or.jpOnceTony Award-winning musicalabout true love found on thestreets of Dublin. Until Dec14, various times, ¥13,000.Ex Theater Roppongi.Roppongi or Nogizaka.www.once-musical.jpDon CarloVerdi’s operatic tale aboutpolitics, religion and a fatherwho steals his son’s girlfriend.Nov 27, 6:30pm; Nov 30, 2pm;Dec 3, 6:30pm; Dec 6, 2pm;Dec 9, 2pm, ¥3,240-21,600.New National Theatre Tokyo.Hatsudai. Tel: 03-5352-9999. www.nntt.jac.go.jp/englishDanceUnsettled MindContemporary danceperformance. Nov 2, 8pm; Nov3, 4pm, ¥3,000 (adv)/¥3,500NOV 8 (SAT)-16 (SUN)BALLET:THE SLEEPING BEAUTYTchaikovsky’s grand balletperformed by the NationalBallet of Japan. Nov 8, 9, 13,15&16, 2pm; Nov 11, 6:30pm,¥3,240-16,200. New NationalTheatre Tokyo. Hatsudai(Keio New Line). www.nntt.jac.go.jp/english/(door)/¥2,500 (under 25).Theater X. Ryogoku.Tel: 03-5624-1181. http://ensemblesonne.comL.A. Dance ProjectModern dance by artisticcollective based in L.A. Nov8, 3pm; Nov 9, 3pm, ¥2,000-¥6,000 (gen) / ¥3,600-¥5,400(members). Saitama ArtsTheater. Yonohonmachi. Tel:0570-064-939. www.saf.or.jpSwan LakePerformed by the BolshoiBallet and the BolshoiOrchestra. Nov 20, 7pm; Nov24, 5pm; Nov 26, 1 & 7pm,¥6,300-¥21,000 (members)¥7,000-¥22,000 (gen).Bunkamura Orchard Hall.Shibuya. Tel: 03-5353-9522.www.bunkamura.co.jpLa BayadèrePerformed by the BolshoiBallet and the BolshoiOrchestra. Dec 3, 6:30pm; Dec4, noon & 6:30pm, ¥6,300-¥21,000 (members) ¥7,000-¥22,000 (gen). Tokyo BunkaKaikan. Ueno. Tel: 03-3828-2111. www.t-bunka.jpClubbingFRIDAY 31AgehaAsobinite. All mix: DJs Nakata,Verbal, etc. From 8pm, ¥4,500.Shinkiba. www.ageha.comAirHalloween Party. Techno DJsIshino, A Mochi, etc. From10pm, ¥3,000. Shibuya.www.air-tokyo.comDaikanyama UnitHalloween. DJs Prefuse73, Emma, etc. From 11pm,¥4,000. Daikanyama. www.unit-tokyo.comGinza Roots TokyoTokyo Locos HalloweenParty. From midnight,(m) ¥3,500 w/2d, (f) free.Ginza-itchome. Tel: 03-5579-9330. http://meturl.com/locoshalloween2014OrigamiMind Off. Techno: DJs Tobias,Stefano Lotti, etc. From 10pm,¥3,500. Omotesando. Tel:03-6434-0968. http://meturl.com/origamiclubT2Shibuya Mixx. EDM: DJsShu, Vivid, etc. From 10pm,(m)¥3,500 w/2d, (f)¥2,500w/2d. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5428-8692. www.t2-shibuya.comThe New Matrix BarMatrix Friday. Old-schoolhip-hop, west side, south side,all mix: DJ Ykk and more. From6pm, ¥1,000 (after 11:30pm).Roppongi. www.matrixbar.jpWombCirco Loco. House: DJ SatoshiOtsuki and more. From 11pm,¥3,500. Tresvibes. House,techno: DJs Djulz, Otuski, etc.From 11pm, ¥3,500. Shibuya.Tel: 03-5459-0039. www.womb.co.jpSATURDAY 1AgehaDj Mag Party. All mix, EDM: DJsDantz, Adam Saville, etc. From11pm, ¥3,500. Shinkiba.www.ageha.comAirDomino. House, techno: DJsVoigtmann, Den, etc. Live:Radiq. From 10pm, ¥3,500.Shibuya. www.air-tokyo.comDaikanyama UnitStones Throw. Hip-hop DJsKnxwledge, Mndsgn, etc: Live:Pyramid Vritra. From 11pm,¥4,000. Daikanyama. www.unit-tokyo.comOrigamiHowl. Electro: DJs Tigerskin,Break 3000, etc. From 10pm,¥3,500. Omotesando. Tel:03-6434-0968. http://meturl.com/origamiclubRuby RoomPerugia. DJs Asyl Cahier,Danda, etc. From 11pm,¥1,500 w/1d. Shibuya. www.rubyroomtokyo.comSound Museum VisionHyper Society. Electro, house:DJs Tanaka, Ayanokoji, etc.From 10pm, (m)¥3,500 w/1d,(f)¥3,000 w/1d. Shibuya.www.vision-tokyo.comThe New Matrix BarSaturday Night Fever. Hip-hop,R&B, reggae: DJ Ykk and more.From 6pm, ¥1,000 (after 10pm).Roppongi. www.matrixbar.jpThe RoomExchange. Jazz, boogie: DJsKawasaki, Sato: Live: JazzCollective. From 10pm, ¥2,500w/1d. Shibuya. www.theroom.jpWomb06s. Drum‘n’bass: DJsFuturebound, Aki, etc. From11pm, ¥3,500. Shibuya. Tel:03-5459-0039. www.womb.co.jpSUNDAY 2AirDanny Krivit. House: DJs DannyKrivit, Dazzle Drums, etc. From10pm, ¥3,500. Shibuya.www.air-tokyo.comSound Museum VisionClassics. Hip-hop: DJ LargeProfessor and more. FromNOV 1 (SAT), 11PMSCREAM!! HalloweenParty 2014Veteran party vampires andan unearthly flock of DJs spincutting-edge Disco, Houseand Electro for Tokyo’s mostdangerous crowd. DJs: Forceof Nature (Mule Music), Gonno(WC, Mekur, InternationalFeel), MXRLX (Blackmaps/Mild Bunch), and DSKE’sSame Fitzgerald (OnigiriDiscotheque) and TROPI(Sunset Driver). Nov 1, 11pm,¥2,500/¥3,500 w/o costume.WWW. B1F Rise Bldg, 13-17Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku.Shibuya. Tel: 03-5458-7685. http://www-shibuya.jp*Note: Date was listederroneously last issue10pm, (m)¥3,500 w/1d,(f)¥3,000 w/1d. Shibuya.www.vision-tokyo.comThe RoomEm. Nu classic: DJs Sazanami,Cbtek, etc. From 10pm, ¥2,000w/1d. Shibuya. www.theroom.jpWombW Big Halloween Party. EDM,house: DJs Taku, Daishi Dance,etc. From 11pm, ¥3,500.Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459-0039.www.womb.co.jpTHURSDAY 6AirBootylicious. Hip-hop DJs Iku,Matsunaga, etc. From 10pm,¥2,000 w/1d. Shibuya. www.air-tokyo.comT2Happiness. World mix: DJsVarious DJs. From 10pm,(m)¥2,500 w/2d, (f)¥1,500w/2d. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5428-8692. www.t2-shibuya.comThe RoomEl Amor. Disco, boogie: DJ NaoEndo. From midnight, ¥1,000.Shibuya. www.theroom.jpWombPop Girls. EDM, Top 40: DJsMamicho, Taiyou, etc. From10pm, (m)¥1,500, (f)free.Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459-0039.www.womb.co.jpFRIDAY 7AgehaAgepa. All mix: DJs U5, Hokuto,etc. From 11pm, (m)¥3,000,(f)free. Shinkiba. www.ageha.comAirSalon. House, EDM: DJsRasmus Faber, Ami, etc. From10pm, ¥3,000. Shibuya.www.air-tokyo.comThe RoomBreakthrough. Hip-hop: DJsJin, Ladi Dadi, etc. From 10pm,¥2,500 w/1d. Shibuya. www.theroom.jp29

WombEDM Music Festival. EDM:DJs Marc Panther, Kick Off,etc. From 11pm, ¥3,500.Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459-0039.www.womb.co.jpExhibitionsAKASAKA/ROPPONGINOV 8 (SAT)-23 (SUN)Fragment of Butterfly 2014Kai Goto’s art is born fromthe concept of reconstructingshattered fragments intonew and vital pieces of art.In her third exhibition, sheexpresses the cyclic processof material by depictingdecay and revival. Nov 8-23,free. Open daily noon-7pm.3F Ogura Bldg, 2-12-4Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku.Nogizaka. Tel: 03-6419-7229. www.nanatasu.jp21_21 Design SightThe Fab Mind: Hints of theFuture in a Shifting World.Focuses on the aspirations andactivities of those who seekto understand and resolvesocial issues through design.Until Feb 1, 11am-8pm, closedTue, ¥500-1,000. Open Mon& Wed-Sun 11am-8pm, closedTue. 9-7-6 Akasaka, Minato-ku.Nogizaka. Tel: 03-3475-2121.www.2121designsight.jpMori Art MuseumLee Mingwei and His Relations.Mixed media artist with aninteractive style. The completionof his works relies on theparticipation of his audience.Until Jan 4, ¥500-1,500. JacobKirkegaard. Sound and videoinstallation on Fukushimaby Danish sound artist. UntilJan 4, 10am-10pm, Tuesdays10am-5pm, ¥1,500 (general) /¥1,000 (uni/high school) / ¥500(4 years-junior high). Open Mon& Wed-Sun 10am-10pm, Tue10am-5pm. 6-10-1 Roppongi.Roppongi. Tel: 03-5777-8600.www.mori.art.museumNanatasu GalleryHitomi Onuki: Nowhere. HitomiOnuki’s work connects piecesof glass to evoke the beauty ofthe maimed. In this exhibition,she uses the idea of the mirroras a boundary to create a fragileand ephemeral world of glasswolves. Until Nov 1, 12-7pm, free.Open daily noon-7pm. 2-12-4Nishi-Azabu. Nogizaka. Tel:03-6419-7229. www.nanatasu.jpSen-Oku Hakuko KanThe Beauty of ChanoyuKettles. Explore 400 years ofChanoyu Kettle history. Nov1-Dec 14, 10am-4:30pm,closed Mon, ¥500-800. 1-5-1Roppongi-itchome, Minato-ku,Tokyo 106-0032. Roppongiitchome.Tel: 03-5777-8600.Suntory Museum of ArtKoyasan 1200th Anniversary:Treasures of the SacredMountain. Figures carvedby some of Japan’s mostcelebrated Buddhist sculptors,including Unkei and Kaikei.Until Dec 7, ¥800-1,300. OpenWed-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun-Mon& hols 10am-6pm, closed Tue.9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku.Roppongi. www.suntory.jp/smaThe National Art Center,TokyoThe Japan Fine Arts Exhibition.Featuring Japanese andWestern paintings, sculptures,applied fine arts and writing.Oct 31-Dec 7, 10am-6pm,closed Tue, ¥700-1,200.Masterpieces from theKunsthaus Zurich. Japaneseexhibition of one of the bestart museums in Switzerlandboasting a world-classcollection of modern art. UntilDec 15, 10am-6pm, closed Tue,¥800-1,600. Open Wed-Thu,Sat-Mon 10am-6pm, Fri10am-8pm, closed Tue. 7-22-2Roppongi. Nogizaka. www.nact.jpGINZA/KYOBASHI/TOKYOBridgestone Museum of ArtWillem de Kooning: Fromthe John and Kimiko PowersCollection. Dutch-bornAmerican artist and one ofthe founders of abstractexpressionism. Until Jan 12,¥500-800. Open Tue-Sun & hols10am-8pm, closed Mon. 1-10-1Kyobashi, Chuo-ku. Tokyo.Tel: 03-5777-8600. www.bridgestone-museum.gr.jpGinza Graphic GalleryPersona 1965. A look backat the 1965 Persona graphicdesign exhibition with artistsKiyoshi Awazu, ShigeoFukuda and others. Nov 5-27,11am-7pm, until 6pm onSat, closed Sun & hols, free.Open Mon-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat11am-6pm, closed Sun & hols.1F Ginza Bldg, 7-7-2 Ginza.Ginza. http://meturl.com/ginzagraphicgalleryIdemitsu Museum of ArtsNinsei, Kenzan and Crafts ofKyoto. Featuring the ceramicworks of artists NonomuraNinsei and Ogata Kenzan. UntilDec 21, Mon-Thu 10am-5pm,Fri 10am-7pm, closed Mon,¥700-1,000. Open Tue-Thu10am-5pm, Fri 10am-7pm,closed Mon. 9F Teigeki Bldg,3-1-1 Marunouchi. Tokyo.www.idemitsu.co.jp/museumMegumi Ogita GalleryShowcaseSadie Rebecca Starnes: Given.American painter whoseworks are influenced by familyhistories of American nativesand Native Americans, diasporicliterature and alizarin crimson.Nov 14-29, 12pm-7pm, closedMon, Sun and hols, free.Witnesses of Beauty. PaolaMasi’s collection of ceramicworks. Until Nov 1, 12-7pm,closed Sun, Mon & hols, free.Tue-Sat 11am-7pm, closedMon & Sun. 4F, 5-4-14 Ginza.Ginza. Tel: Tue-Sat 11am-7pm.www.megumiogita.comNagoya Commerce andIndustry CenterThe Mirror Ginza. The truenature of the coming erareflected in artwork. UntilNov 9, 1-9pm, ¥1,000 (lectureis extra) / reservation only.1-9pm. 4-3-6 Ginza, Chuo-ku.Ginza-itchome.National Film CenterLe Monde Enchanté de JacquesDemy. Behind-the-scenesphotographs from works byFrench New Wave directorknown for The Umbrellas ofCherbourg and other films. UntilDec 14, ¥70-210. Open Tue-Sun11am-6:30pm, closed Mon.3-7-6 Kyobashi. Kyobashi. Tel:03-5777-8600. www.momat.go.jpThe National Museum ofModern Art, TokyoHishida Shunso: ARetrospective. Works by a Meijiperiod painter and innovatorof nihonga. (Note: In the Sep5-18 edition of Metropolis, thisexhibition was erroneouslylisted as ¥300-1,400. Itshould have read ¥400-1,400as below.) Until Nov 3,¥400-1,400. Celadon Now:Techniques and BeautyHanded Down from SouthernSung to Today. Modern ceramicart. Until Nov 24, ¥300-900.Narahara Ikko: Domains. Oneof the leading photographersof post-war Japan. Domainsfocuses on human beings in amonastery in Hokkaido and afemale prison in Wakayama,both isolated from theexternal world. Nov 18-Mar1, 10am-5pm, closed Mon,¥130-430. Open Tue-Thu& Sat-Sun 10am-5pm, Fri10am-8pm. 3-1 Kitanomarukoen.Takebashi. Tel:03-5777-8600. www.momat.go.jpHARAJUKU/AOYAMAUkiyo-e Ota MemorialMuseum of ArtUtagawa Kunisada: 150thAnniversary of His Death.Collection of prints by one of thegreat ukiyo-e masters. Until Nov24, ¥700-1,000. Open Tue-Sun10:30am-5:30pm, closed Mon.1-10-10 Jingumae. Harajuku.www.ukiyoe-ota-muse.jpSHIBUYA/EBISUBunkamura: The MuseumThe Dream of French Paintings:From Impressionism to Ecolede Paris. Select works byMonet, Chagall, Cézanne,Foujita and more. Until Dec 14,¥500-1,400. Open Mon-Thu& Sun 10am-7pm, Fri-Sat10am-9pm. 2-24-1 Dogenzaka.Shibuya. Tel: 03-5777-8600.www.bunkamura.co.jpSHINJUKU/IKEBUKUROHiromart GalleryNatural Base. Oil andwatercolor exhibition by ClaudiaAhlering. Until Nov 30, 1-7pm.Open Wed-Sun 1-7pm, closedMon-Tue. 1-30-7 Sekiguchi,Bunkyo-ku. Edogawabashi.www.hiromartgallery.comKenji Taki GalleryNobuyuki Tanaka. Recipientof the 18th MOA MokichiOkada Prize Craft Arts SectionAward. Until Nov 8, 12-7pm,Free. Open Tue-Sat noon-7pm,closed Sun-Mon & hols. 3-18-2Nishi-Shinjuku. Hatsudai.www.kenjitaki.comNakamuraya SalonMuseum of ArtBorn Here, Yet to Be BornHere. Showcasing the variousartists who have gathered atthe Nakamuraya Salon over theyears. Until Feb 15, 10:30am-7pm, closed Tue, ¥300.10:30am-7pm, closed Tue.3-26-13 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku,Tokyo. Shinjuku. www.nakamuraya.co.jp/museumSompo JapanMuseum of ArtNormandie: L'Estuaire dela Seine—L'Invention d'unPaysage. Paintings by EugèneBoudin, Raoul Dufy and others.Until Nov 9, ¥700-1,100.Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm, closedMon. 42F Sompo JapanBldg. 1-26-1 Nishi-Shinjuku.Shinjuku. Tel: 03-5405-8686. www.sjnk-museum.org/enTokyo Opera CityArt GalleryZaha Hadid. Iraqi-Britisharchitect, and first femalerecipient of the PritzkerArchitecture Prize in 2004.Until Dec 23, 11am-7pm,closed Mon, ¥1,000-1,200.Open Tue-Thu 11am-7pm,Fri-Sat 11am-8pm. 3-20-2Nishi-Shinjuku. Hatsudai.http://operacity.jpUENOEdo-Tokyo MuseumTokyo Olympics and the BulletTrain. In commemoration of the50th anniversary of the TokyoOlympic and Paralympic Games.Until Nov 16, ¥670-1340. OpenTue-Fri & Sun 9:30am-5:30pm,Sat 9:30am-7:30pm, closedMon & hols. 1-4-1 Yokoami.Ryogoku. Tel: 03-3626-9974.www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jpNational Museum of Natureand ScienceHikari Exhibition. Featuring therelationship between light andspace, the earth and humans,showcasing the beautiful worldof light. Until Feb 22, 9am-5pm,until 8pm on Fri, closed Mon,¥600-1,600. Open Tue-Thu &Sat-Sun 9am-5pm, Fri 9am-8pm,closed Mon. 7-20 Ueno Park.Ueno. Tel: 03-3822-0111.www.kahaku.go.jpThe National Museum ofWestern ArtFerdinand Hodler: TowardsRhythmic Images. Paintings byone of the best-known Swissartists of the 19th century. UntilJan 12, ¥800-1,600. Open daily9:30am-5:30pm. 7-7 Ueno Park.Ueno. www.nmwa.go.jpTokyo Metropolitan ArtMuseumThe Renaissance Golden Age:From Botticelli to Bronzino.About 70 works by the greatRenaissance masters, courtesyof the famed Uffizi Galleryin Florence. Until Dec 14,¥1,000-1,600. Uffizi Gallery.An exhibition tracing thedevelopment of Florentineart from the 15th to the 16thcentury through works from thecollection of the world-famedUffizi Gallery. Until Dec 14,9:30am-5:30pm, closed Mon,¥800-1,600. 8-36 Ueno Park.Ueno. www.tobikan.jpTokyo National MuseumNational Treasures of Japan.Artifacts gathered acrossvarious genres and periods.Until Dec 7, ¥900-1,600.OpenTue-Sun 9:30am-5pm. 13-9Ueno Park.tnm.jpUeno. www.Ueno Royal MuseumHokusai: From the Museumof Fine Arts, Boston. One ofJapan’s most famous ukiyo-eartists of the Edo period.Until Nov 9, ¥400-1,500.Open Sat-Thu 10am-6pm, Fri10am-8pm. 1-2 Ueno Park.Ueno. www.ueno-mori.orgOTHER AREASHakone Museum ofPhotographyMt. Fuji. Katsura Endo’sportrayal of the ever-changingsymbol of Japan. Permanentexhibition. Until Nov 4,¥300-500. 10am-5pm, closedTue (9am-9pm Sat fromMay to August). 1300-432Goura Hakonemachi,Ashigarashimogun, Kanagawa.Gora. Tel: 046-02-2717. www.hmop.comHoki MuseumHito Omoi, Hito Omou.Paintings. Lifelike portraitsby contemporary artists. UntilNov 16, ¥900-1,800. HiroshiNoda: Living to Paint—Realismfrom the Entire Psyche. Nov21-May 17, 10am-5:30pm,closed Tue, ¥900-1,800. OpenMon & Wed-Thu 10am-6pm,Fri-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun10am-5pm, closed Tue. 3-15Asumigaokahigashi, Midori-ku.Toke. www.hoki-museum.jpMasataka ContemporaryPlanet Jam. A group showwith artists Saki Fujikawa,Ryoko Kumakura, and Kinokoportraying how the worldeach artist inhabits meet,intersect and merge, creatingan interesting environmentfor expression. Until Nov 8,Tue-Sat 11am-7pm, closed Sun& Mon, free. Sansho Bldg. 3-2-9Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo103-0027. Nihonbashi. Tel:03-3275-1019. www.masatakacontemporary.com/enMiraikanShake! Art Exhibition. Digital artproduced by TeamLab, an “UltraTechnologist” organization thatmerges science, technology,art and design with aninteractive Future Park. Nov29-Mar 1, 10am-5pm, closedTue, ¥900-1,800. 2-3-6, Aomi,Koto-ku. Telecom Center. Tel:03-3570-9151. www.miraikan.jst.go.jp/enThe ContainerChange Room. Canadianartist Robert Waters’exhibition. Until Nov 16,Open Mon-Fri 11am-9pm,Sat-Sun 10am-8pm, closedTue, free. Mon-Fri 11am-9pm,Sat-Sun & hols 10am-8pm,closed Tue. Hills Daikanyama,1-8-30 Kami-Meguro.Naka-Meguro. www.the-container.comTokyo Fuji Art MuseumGenius and Ambition: TheRoyal Academy of Arts, London1768-1918. Oil paintings byTurner, Constable and others.Until Nov 24, ¥400-1,300.Open Tue-Sun 10am-5pm,closed Mon. Yano-machi492-1 Hachioji. Hachioji. Tel:042-691-4511. www.fujibi.or.jp/enTokyo Gallery + BTAPJin Sha Solo: Salute to Masters.Featuring 15 works of Chinesepaintings, prints and sculpturesby Chinese artist Jin Sha. UntilNov 22, Tue-Fri 11am-7pm,Sat 11am-5pm, closed Mon &Sun, free. Tue–Fri 11am–7pm& Sat 11am–5pm, closed Sun,Mon & Hols. 7F, 8-10-5 Ginza.Shinbashi. Tel: 03-3571-1808. www.tokyo-gallery.comSportsBASEBALLJapan All-Star SeriesSamurai Japan vs. MLB AllStar Team. Nov 14-16, 6pm,¥1,000-20,000. Tokyo Dome.Suidobashi. Tel: 03-5800-9999.GOLFJLPGAMorinaga Ladies. Oct 31-2,8pm, ¥5,400. MorinagaTakataki Country Club.Goi. http://meturl.com/morinagaladies2014PRO WRESTLINGNoahNov 4, 6:30pm, ¥4,000-7,000(adv)/ ¥5,000-7,000. KorakuenHall. Suidobashi. Tel:03-3527-5311.Big JapanNov 22, 7pm, ¥3,150-6,300.Korakuen Hall. Suidobashi.Tel: 03-5800-9999.RUGBYJapan vs. New ZealandNov 8, 2pm, ¥500-10,000.Chichibunomiya Rugby Stadium.Gaienmae. Tel: 03-3401-3881.SOCCERYamazaki Nabisco CupSanfrecce Hiroshima vs. GambaOsaka. Nov 8, kickoff at 1:05pm,¥1,000-7,000. Saitama Stadium2002. Urawamisono. Tel:0570-084-003.FestivalsKuroshio Yosakoi MatsuriParticipate in mochi making,a cabbage eating contest andmore. Nov 30, 10am-6:30pm,free. Choshi City Hall.Tel: 047-925-5889. www.kuroyosa.comForums &ExposChoshi.Design Festa Vol. 40The single largest artfestival in Asia combiningperformances, internationalcuisine, artistic expression,enrichment, diversity andpassion. Nov 8-9, 11am-7pm,¥800 (adv 1 day ticket)/¥1,500 (adv 2 day ticket);¥1,000 (door 1 day ticket)/¥1,800 (door two day ticket).Tokyo Big Sight. KokusaiTenjijo. Tel: 03-3479-1433.http://designfesta.com/en/Winter Sports FestaA chance to buy skiand snowboard wearand accessories. Nov8, 11am-8pm; Nov 9,10am-6pm, free. Tokyo BigSight. Kokusai Tenjijo.Tel: 0120-64-1166. www.fuyusupo.jpGame MarketInteract with other analoggamers and visit boothsdedicated to board games,card games, simulationgames and more. Nov 16,10am-5pm, ¥500-1,000.Tokyo Big Site. KokusaiTenjijo. Tel: 03-5283-9955.http://gamemarket.jpOrganic Expo 2014Discover new and innovativeproducts in the area of food,natural cosmetics, naturaltextiles and natural productsat the only organic tradeshow in Japan. Nov 20-22,10am-5:30pm (until 5pm onNov 21), ¥1,000 (free withonline registration). TokyoBig Site. Kokusai Tenjijo.Tel: 03-3512-5675. http://organic-expo.jp/enBazaars &MarketsAsakusa Tori-no-Ichi FairOpen air market selling okamemasks, bamboo rakes of goodluck, etc. Nov 10 & 22, all day,free. Chokokuji Temple andOotori Shrine. Asakusa.http://meturl.com/asatori1Swedish Christmas BazaarSwedish food, drinks,handicrafts and folkmusic. Nov 30, 12-4pm,¥500. Swedish Embassy.Roppongi-Itchome. Tel:03-5562-5050. http://meturl.com/swedishchristmasShinagawa Intercity FleaMarketMore than 120 vendors. Sun& hols. Until Jan 1, 9am-3pm,free. Shinagawa Intercity.Shinagawa. http://meturl.com/shinfleaIidabashi Ramla MarketEvery first and third Sun,10am-4pm, Iidabashi Ramla.Iidabashi.Umi no Koen Flea MarketEvery third Sun, 10am-4pm,Umi no Koen. Uminokoen-Shibaguchi. rinpodan@umino-kouen.net. Tel:03-3226-6800.30

Best Flea MarketEvery second Sun, 10am-4pm,Tokyo International ForumHall C. Yurakucho. Tel:03-3226-6800.Hanazono Shrine MarketEvery Sun, 8am-4pm,Hanazono Shrine. Shinjukusanchome.Tel: 03-3200-3093.Ibaraki-ichiFarm-fresh veg from the north.Every Sat, 7-9am, RoppongiHills East Court. Roppongi.Tel: 03-6406-5285.Nogi Shrine MarketEvery second Sun,5:30am-3pm, Nogi Shrine.Nogizaka. Tel: 03-3478-3001.Oedo Antique FairJapan’s largest outdoorantique market. Every firstand third Sun, 8am-4:30pm,Tokyo International ForumHall C. Yurakucho. Tel:03-5805-1093.Aoyama MarchéOrganic farmers market. Everyweekend, United NationsUniversity. Omotesando.Tel: 03-3456-0960.Yasukuni ShrineAntique MarketEvery Sun, sunrisesunset,Yasukuni Shrine.Kudanshita. Tel: 03-3261-8326.Fudaten Jinja MarketEvery second Sun, 10am-4pm,Fudaten Jinja. Chofu. Tel:04-2489-0022.Shinjuku Central ParkMarketLocal produce stalls,workshops and liveperformances. Every Sat,10am-4pm, Shinjuku CentralPark. Tochomae. Tel:03-2504-2128. http://meturl.com/shinjukuparkmarketYebisu MarchéOrganic fruits and vegetables.Every first and third Sun,11am-5pm, Ebisu GardenPlace. Ebisu. www.facebook.com/YEBISUMarcheCommunityGrief Support GroupHosted by TELL everyWednesday. For moreinformation, contact training@telljp.com. Oct 8-Dec 10,7-8:30pm, free. Wesley Center.Omotesando. http://meturl.com/griefsupport2014Pause TalkOpen forum where creativescan get together and discussprojects, ideas and culturalcurrents. Every first Mon,Cafe Pause. Ikebukuro.Tel: 03-6912-7711. www.pausetalk.orgParty and PurposeA casual get-together overdinner with people interestedin personal development,organized by Tokyo PositiveThinkers. Every third Wed,8pm, about ¥2,000, IkebukuroTGI Friday's. Ikebukuro. Tel:090-4440-6391. http://meturl.com/positivethinkerstokyofor slide shows, lectures,ride-planning, etc. Everysecond Wed, 7pm, free, ThePink Cow. Roppongi. Tel:03-6434-5773. cowmail@thepinkcow.comTokyo Street HockeyAssociationCasual street hockey groupwith regular meet-ups. Everyfirst, second and third Fri, 8pm,¥2,000-3,000 (per player)/¥500 (goalies, girls, firsttimers). Various venues. Checkwebsite calendar for details.www.tokyohockey.comDr. Sketchy’s Anti-ArtSchoolBurlesque models pose for artstars and sketching newbiesalike with arty socializing.Every third Wed, 7pm, ¥2,000w/1d. Studio and Space IVVA.Meiji-Jingumae or Harajuku.www.drsketchytokyo.wordpress.comSunday SpinHula-hoop it up in Yoyogi, noneed to bring your own. Dropin/out at any time. Every fourthSun, Yoyogi Park. Harajuku.Tel: 03-3469-6081. http://meturl.com/hoopinginjapanLearningNatural Wine SeminarTasting of four wines withfull-course French dinner. Oct31, 7-9pm, ¥5,500 (general),¥4,500 (member). Cafe de laPresse. Nihon-Odori. Tel:045-222-3348. http://meturl.com/wineseminarChocolate and WinePairing PartyNov 15, 6-8:30pm, ¥3,980 +tax (adv). Sakura Hall. http://meturl.com/otherwineFrench Cheese SeminarFrench lecture on four cheesesto pair with French cider.Nov 15, 10:30am, ¥3,500(general)/¥3,000 (member).The French Institute ofYokohama. Kannai. http://meturl.com/cheeseciderIllustration Workshop withRomain HugaultDrawing or illustrationexperience required.Nov 27, 10:45am, ¥2,500(general)/¥2,000 (member).The French Institute ofYokohama. Kannai.http://meturl.com/locoshalloween2014TCS Improv WorkshopThe weekly Tokyo ComedyStore In the Moment improvworkshop, all levels welcome.Beginner intensives onweekends throughout the year.See website for more details.Every Wednesday, 7-9pm, OurSpace Studio. Hatagaya.Tel: 03-5770-7401. www.tokyocomedy.comNihonga ClassRegular classes and one-dayworkshops on basic Japanesestylepainting techniques. Allclasses in English and Japanese.Weekdays 6pm, Sat 11am &3pm, ¥5,000-15,000. Emailfor details on flexible classtimes. 4B Maruoka Bldg, 5-49-7Jingumae. Meiji-Jingumae.www.mariatanikawa.comMotomachi-Chukagai.Tel: 045-624-3900. www.sbejapan.comTokyo Metropolitan TourismChrysanthemum Exhibition100th anniversary of one ofTokyo’s most well-known flowerforums. Decoration flowers,bonsai and more. Until Nov23, all day, free. Hibiya Park.Hibiya. Tel: 03-3501-6428.http://meturl.com/tokchrys1Festival Fukushima!Ikebukuro comes to life witha giant furoshiki cloth on theground, big band music andoriginal bon dancing. Thefestival also serves as the launchparty for the 2014 edition ofFestival/Tokyo, Japan’s largestperforming arts event. Nov 1,3-8pm; Nov 2, 11am-5pm, free.Ikebukuro West Gate Park.Ikebukuro. www.festivaltokyo.jpThe R2 Masquerade BallA legendary night out feat.Tokyo’s finest female DJs,sensual dance performancesand more. Nov 1, 10pm-4am,¥4,000 (adv). R2 Supper Club.Roppongi. Tel: 03-6447-0002. www.r2sc.jp/enYokohama Triennale 2014Art event with the theme“voyage into the sea ofoblivion.” Until Nov 3, varioustimes, ¥500-2,400. Variousvenues. Minatomirai orBasamichi. Tel: 03-5405-8686.www.yokohamatriennale.co.jpBeaujolais Nouveau PartyBe among the first to sip thisyear’s Beaujolais nouveau. Nov20, 2:30pm & 12:30-2pm, Freeentry, but charge for drinks. TheFrench Institute of Yokohama.Kannai. http://meturl.com/beaujolais201419th Annual Connoisseurs’sAuctionHighlights of the eveninginclude an exclusive Frenchwine tasting, live and silentauctions of connoisseur items,an autumn feast, entertainmentand raffles for fabulous prizes.Registration required. Nov 21,5:30pm, ¥20,000. Embassyof France in Tokyo.Tel: 03-4550-1191. http://tellauction.comHiroo.Japan Idol FestivalWith Links, Chu-Z, Ultra Girl andmore. Jan 25, 3pm, ¥4,500.Shinjuku Blaze. Shinjuku.Tel: 0570-550-799. www.kyodotokyo.com/JIFDepartment-HUnderground party hostedby drag queens. Every firstSaturday night of every month.BYOB. Until Dec 5, 12am,¥3,000(dress code)/¥4,500(w/flyer)/ ¥5,000 (door). TokyoKinema Club. Uguisudani.Tel: 03-3874-7988. http://department-h.comShibuhouse PartyAll-night house party with theShibuhouse residents on the22nd of every month, 7pm-7am.¥1,000 w/ food & drink. Contactshibuhouseinfo@gmail.com foraddress/directions. Shibuya.www.shibuhouse.com.Build aSmarter BodyBuild a flexible and healthy physiqueand enjoy eating, work, hobbiesand sports more than ever before.Stitch-n-BitchMeet fellow knitters,crocheters and sewers to talk,share ideas, eat, drink andcreate. Every first and thirdTue, 7pm, free, Cafe Respekt.Shibuya. www.meetup.com/TokyoStitchandBitchHalf-Fast CyclistsBicyclists of all treads meetOther EventsYokohama HalloweenFestivalThe biggest internationalHalloween party in Japan, withlive music, a free Halloweenmake-up booth and more.Oct 31, 9pm-5am, ¥1,500-2,500. Yokohama Bay Hall.MORE LISTINGSONLINE → METURL.COM/LISTINGSPERSONAL TRAINING STUDIO4F Laguetto Aoyama, 3-14-2Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo03-6440-0505bodydirector.com31

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With shave ¥5800.Kids’ haircuts ¥4000-¥4400. First-time discount¥1000. http://oazo.biz/top03-5545-7797 oazo7797@yahoo.co.jpTO ADVERTISE IN METROPOLIS,Japan’s No.1 English magazine,log on at www.metropolis.co.jp/classifieds or email yourcommercial ads to commercial@metropolisjapan.com.1.6 HOME & GARDENCLEAN AND SMILE COMPANY.We'll make your kitchen,bathroom, toilet, carpet andeverything else sparkle! Mon-Fri,10am-5pm. We charge ¥4000/hfor house cleaning. Just call03-5413-7410. britonmmm@yahoo.co.jp1.7 BUSINESS SERVICESLAW OFFICE IN KAWASAKI(next to Tokyo), memberof the Yokohama BarAssociation. Legalservice in English fortraffic accidents, divorce,inheritance, bankruptcy,business cases (contracts,establishing a company,trademarks, etc.) and otherlegal problems.Email:web@smkw.biz www.sumikawa.net/VISA COUNSELING:female immigration lawyerhandles your visa case.Permanent residency,naturalization, eligibility(inviting your spouse/children/workers fromyour country), extension/change of visa status.Consultation ¥5000. OFFICELIFE (Miho Fujibayashi).Tel: 090-8330-0670Email: mailto@officelife.jpWebsite: http://officelife.jp/en/IMMIGRATION LAWYER ATNIPPASHI OFFICE supportsvisa and naturalizationapplications, companyestablishment and branchoffice installation, includingcommercial registration, aswell as inheritance proceduresin Japan. Free consultationavailable in English, Españoland Japanese. Tel: 03-6264-8446 np@nippashi.com http://nippashi.comTHINKING ABOUT ADVERTISINGWITH METROPOLIS? Platinum¥32,400. Gold ¥27,000. Silver¥21,600. Prices include onephoto. Bronze ¥2000 (photo+ ¥2000). Prices are for 40words, one print issue, twoMetropolis and its subsequentClassifieds section areprinted every other week. Theupcoming publication datesand corresponding deadlinesfor print are as follows. Thisdoes not affect the onlineClassifieds, where ads arevisible immediately after theyare approved.FRI, NOV 14 ISSUEDeadline: Nov 6, 3pmFRI, NOV 28 ISSUEDeadline: Nov 19, 3pmweeks online. For details,visit the Tokyo Classifiedsblog—http://metropolis.co.jp/classifiedblog—or email us atcommercial@metropolisjapan.com.CREATIVE SOLUTIONS. Specialistsin branding, web design, photo/video production. Drawing A Crowd:a new approach in design. Get intouch. info@drawingacrowd.co1.8 GENERAL SERVICESSMILE STAND: Japan’s firstand only stylish rental photobooth. An exciting additionto any party, event, etc., andthe best way to get crazy,fabulous, professional photos.With this ad ¥55,000~. info@highland-tokyo.com https://vimeo.com/44976943 www.smile-stand.comFURNITURE RENTAL. Createcustomized furnishedapartments with ourfurniture rental service.Furniture packagesarranged by our qualifiedinterior designers toaccommodate varioussizes and styles. We alsooffer apartment leasingconsultation. Please call0120-957-520. www.smartrental-tokyo.com2 FIND A PLACE2.1 GUESTHOUSECREA-UN UENO. Furnishedprivate rooms, w/digital locks,near Asakusa, Ueno, Skytree.Safe area, female-only,rooftop garden w/nice view,BBQ space, free bicycle. From¥56,000/m. Utilities included.No key money/guarantor.crea-un.sakura@ko-bo.comhttp://www.sakura-ko-bo.com03-6912-0692KANAMACHI GUEST HOUSE.Brand-new furnished sharerooms, separate male andfemale floors, all roomsw/digital locks, aircon,fridge, 1min walk fromKanamachi stn, Chiyodaline ¥40,000/m. room@airay-apartment.net03-5876-4575 www.airayapartment.net/2.2 RENT UNDER ¥200,000PRIVATE FURNISHEDA P A R T M E N T S .Odakyu line: Mukogaoka-Yuen/Yomiuri-Land-Mae,20/30min from Shinjuku.Keikyu line: Hatcho-Nawate,15min from Shinagawa.1K~2LDK ¥58,000/m~¥120,000/m. Tel: 044-933-7000 Email:mh@minowagroup.jp www.minowagroup.jp/minowahomesSERVICED APARTMENTSin a quiet residential areaof Hiroo. Studios andsuites. 4min from Hiroostn. Rates: Daily ¥7800.Weekly ¥6850-/day.Monthly ¥5700-/day. Overthree months ¥5130-/day.Tax, utilities included.frontdesk@azabucourt.com www.azabucourt.com/ 03-3446-861002.3 RENT OVER ¥200,000TOKYO APARTMENTS. Yourone-stop housing solutionthroughout Tokyo. Providingserviced, furnished andunfurnished apartments,for both long- and shorttermstays. Also providingrelocation services,furniture rental, propertymanagement and sales.Please call 0120-957-920.www.tokyoapartments.jp2.5 PLACE WANTEDApartment required in Chiba. Hello, Iam starting a new job in the Kobukechoarea of Chiba on Jan 1, and I amseeking an apartment. Thanks. japan@roughsmoke.com3 EDUCATION3.5 LANGUAGE EXCHANGEDanish, German, Japanese. Hej and 'NTag! JF, 30s, seeks Danes and Germansto help her with languages in Tokyo/Kanagawa through fun conversationsover cups of coffee or just hanging out.Please be nonsmokers, late 20s-30s.codename107113@live.comEnglish and Japanese. Hi there, I'mseeking language exchange partnersaround central Tokyo on weekends. I canspeak reasonable English, but recently,I have little opportunity to speak it. I'ma Japanese female, 40s. Serious only—but should be fun! hydrangea2008@gmail.comEnglish and Japanese. I love joking in Eand playing with words. I want to be ableto do the same in J. So far, my Japaneseis as funny as day-old ramen. You must beopen-minded! uk84@outlook.comEnglish and Japanese. Japanesefemale, early 20s, seeking a languageexchange. Nihonbashi area after workpreferred, but open to weekends, too.lovin2012_life@yahoo.co.jpEnglish and Japanese. Native Englishspeaker is sought by Japanse male inKokubunji. Weekday evenings or anytimeon weekends. I would like to talk with youat a cafe or via Skype. Serious but fun.seigow@hotmail.comEnglish and Japanese. JF, 4 0s,seriously seeks language exchangepartner or English conversation partnerto brush up her E. Can anyone help me?Of course, I would be happy to helpyour Japanese if you like. Serious only,please. daphneodora@hotmail.co.jpEnglish and Japanese. I’m a Japaneseguy, 40, E/J language exchange expertwith eight years’ experience. I live incentral Tokyo. I need a native Englishspeaker’s help to make my English morenatural. hiki4se7ga0@yahoo.co.jpEnglish and Japanese. Group languageexchange every Wed, 7:30-9:30pm,at coffee shops around Ginza. Mostmembers are 20s and 30s. We switchlanguages every 30min. Fun events onweekends. Free to join. ando.andy@gmail.comFrench and Japanese. Fr and J dailyexchange in Otemachi. winds_fr@hotmail.comFrench, English, Japanese. Hello! I'ma native Russian speaker, 23, workingas an E/Fr teacher, seeking a Japanesespeaker to help me improve my Japanese.I'm a beginner. Not far from Ichikawa-shi,Chiba. julia_kuzhnetsova@mail.ruGerman and Japanese. JF seeks Ger/Jlanguage exchange partner. Seit SechsMonaten lerne ich Deutsch aber ichspreche Englisch. F/M ok. If interested,drop me a line. gardenstate2005@hotmail.comItalian and Japanese. Would like tolearn basic It from a native speakerwho wants to practice J. Possibly nearShibuya on weekday evenings after 7pm.unicornio@nifty.comItalian and Japanese. JM, 40s,interested in Italian cars, art, culture andfood, is seeking a language exchangemate in Tokyo. I work on weekdays, soweekends/holidays are convenient forme. youdidntsaythat@yahoo.co.jpKorean and Japanese. Japanese male,41, seeks a native Korean speaker forKor/J exchange. I like music, reading,cooking. I hope we can learn from eachother and have some fun. astralsky@excite.co.jpRussian, English, Japanese. Hello,I'm a native Russian speaker. I arrivedin Tokyo to study Japanese at alanguage school, but I want to improvemy Japanese more. If you're learningRussian, I can help you, too. segasf@rambler.ruSpanish and Japanese. Native Spanishspeaker (Latin American preferred)sought for language exchange. Meet inTokyo area once/week. Serious learnersonly, please. tempstadesjp@gmail.com3.6 LEARNING: GENERALIKEBANA (JAPANESETRADITIONAL FLORALARRANGEMENT) is a powerfulmeans of self-expression. Triallesson, including all materials¥4000. No Japanese necessary.Certification, diploma canbe earned. Three classroomlocations in Tokyo. Website:www.atelier-soka.com/english/index.html Email: smile@mikaotani.com3.9 TEACH ME!Expert Python/C++ programmer (local).Can pay ¥1000/h, plus coffee. Must befluent in English or Japanese. Master’s orPhD student (engineering) is ideal. Mustbe able to meet in Tokyo. yatri_in_town@yahoo.co.jpHelp me, please. British man, myJapanese is awful. I can’t speak andit’s making me unhappy. I want a strictJapanese teacher. I don’t want a languageexchange. Two hours/week. Can payabout ¥1000/h. helpmyjapanese@outlook.comHjaelpe mig med dansk! Leder efterdansker i Tokyo eller Kanagawa. Jegtaler lidt dansk og vil gerne laere mere!Jeg kan hjaelpe dig med japansk. JF, 30s,ikke-ryger. b2jw13@hotmail.co.jpIkebana lesson (sogatsu). Wouldlike private ikebana instruction at myhotel Dec 4-9 in Ebisu. Must be qualifiedinstructor with knowledge of sogetsu( 草 月 ). Broken English ability is ok.likeme4u@hotmail.comPhD student in engineering? Tokyo only.Majoring in wireless/communication orrelated area? Help me with simulation.Must be able to use Matlab/Simulink andknow how to validate hypothesis withsimulation like Monte Carlo, etc. Will pay¥2000/h. yatri_in_town@yahoo.co.jpReasonable English lessons. Japanesemale, 30, seeks native English teacherwho could teach me on weekends alongthe Odakyu line. Please introduceyourself. umek2002jp@yahoo.co.jpTeach me martial arts or yoga. I’m aJapanese man in Tokyo. Please teachme for free. Hope to hear from you soon.kamikaze_vibe@hotmail.comWine teacher in Tokyo. Teach me aboutFrench wine in Tokyo on weekends. Prefera native teacher with teaching experienceand a wine qualification. Will pay for yourtime. frenchwinetasting@hotmail.com4 HOUSEHOLD GOODS4.2 APPLIANCESAir purifier, Venta LW, size 24, Germanmade¥12,000. Pick up Shinjuku.likeme4u@hotmail.comFridge, National nr-b171j-r(480x584x1293mm) ¥7000. Pick up nearNezu stn, Chiyoda line. msa.japan@hotmail.comFridge, Mitsubishi MR-E45P, 445L, warmstainless, clean, five y/o, ice maker,eco, French doors, fits narrow, from BicCamera. New ¥156,800. Sell ¥65,000.martin@klnow.comFridge, Mitsubishi, large, fivecompartments; top loading Nationalwasher; in good condition ¥10,000.Negotiable. Chuo-ku. Details, photosavailable. vijya.agrawal@gmail.comFridge/freezer, Sanyo SR-B18J, 175L(fridge 123L, on top; freezer 52L, in threedrawers), silver, '05, good for one-twopeople, in excellent condition ¥10,000.View Shinjuku. Can arrange deliveryfor extra cost. metropolisclassified@jungletelegraph.netFuton dryer ( 布 団 乾 燥 機 ), Sanyo,still in box ¥3000. Pick up Shinjuku.likeme4u@hotmail.comHumidifier, Fujitsu AH-56D ¥3000. Pickup Shinjuku-ku. likeme4u@hotmail.comTrouser press, Toshiba, stand-up, asnew ¥3000. Pick up Shinjuku. likeme4u@hotmail.com4.3 SAYONARA SALESayonara sale! Hitachi washer, almostnew, made in Japan ¥11,000. SonyViera, 37”, almost new, w/Skype camera¥38,000. DVD/VHF ¥10,000. Zojirushidishwasher, new ¥26,000. Vaio, Win 8,almost new ¥72,000. selfeducation@hotmail.comSayonara sale! Desk, chair,microwave, various other kitchen items.beatricemalburg@web.deSayonara sale! Onkyo surround systemPR-155SPX, control unit, new remote,sub in good condition, speakers havesome dents ¥15,000/obo. Pick up nearShinagawa stn. fairmerit@gmail.com32

The majority of classified ads have moved online! classifieds.metropolis.co.jpSayonara sale! Bed, shelves, etc.Shimokitazawa. Details, photosavailable. bobak.rostampour@hays.co.jp https://www.flickr.com/photos/128031859@N08/4.6 FOR KIDSCrib ¥5000. Can deliver to central/western Tokyo and assemble for extracharge. colinrundle@yahoo.comWindbreaker, Puma, black, size 130cm,in good condition ¥1000. Photo available.Pick up or chakubarai. housetsu@gmail.com4.7 FOR FREECabinet, antique (W87xH166cm). Pickup only Suginami. star@moon8sun.comPerfume and lotion. Rose water(Palestine), rose oil perfume (India),and peony lotion from L’Occitane. Pickup Koto-ku or meet central Tokyo.larajuku1997@gmail.comTable, coffee (120x60xH35cm), w/drawers on both sides, never used. Pickup only Mizonokuchi area. ml@cole.jp5 HOBBIES&INTERESTS5.1 CAMERASPhotographer set, D90 ¥130,000.maryryu2002@i.softbank.jp5.2 SPORTS EQUIPMENTGolf bag, tote, Le Coq Sportif Golf, w/shoe pocket, as new ¥2000. Pick upShinjuku-ku. likeme4u@hotmail.com5.5 GAMINGPlayStation 3, Japanese version,60GB, games use Blu-ray discs as mediaformat, powerful cell processor, dynamicRSX graphics chip, backward compatibleto original Sony PlayStation ¥25,000.Photo available. tokyogriff@gmail.com090-6013-13965.6 COLLECTORSIchiro Suzuki stamps. Commemorativestamps of the Seattle Marinerscelebrating nine consecutive seasons of200 hits, exclusively released in Japan,cannot be bought anywhere ¥10,000.Photos available. likeme4u@hotmail.com6 VEHICLES6.3 BICYCLES, PARTS, & ACCESSORIESBike, Riteway, men’s, sport, 9.8kg, twoy/o, in great condition, Shimano gears/brakes, new tires, inner tubes, smallscratches, for rider under 180cm. New+ parts ¥70,000. Sell ¥30,000. rod_jaytee@yahoo.co.ukMamachari, three-speed, no rust, inexcellent condition, two y/o, w/two seats¥25,000. W/front seat only ¥22,000. Candeliver up to three stations from Ueno.msa.japan@hotmail.comRoad bike, Ridley Helium, '14, 56cm,Ultegra groupset, Campagnolo Shamalwheels, Fizik saddle, Deda seat postand handle bars, 7.2kg, 1500km ridden¥320,000/complete bike. Less for justframe. robert@ap-advisers.com7 GENERAL7.2 FASHIONDress, Heaven and Earth (Shibuya109), gray, w/chain detail and matchinggray tank top, Japanese free size, ingreat condition ¥500. Pick up Koto-kuor meet central Tokyo. larajuku1997@gmail.comDress, Jenevi (Shibuya 109), mini,black, w/blue detail, Japanese freesize, in great condition ¥500. Pickup Koto-ku or meet central Tokyo.larajuku1997@gmail.comFlip-flops, Olukai brand, XL, made inHawaii, never worn. New ¥6000+. Sell¥3000. Pick up Shinjuku. likeme4u@hotmail.comHair dye, red, from the UK, expiresMay '15 ¥500/bottle. Pick up Nakano.madamixx@yahoo.co.jpRaincoat, Cecilene, size M, ivory ¥600.Pick up or chakubarai. Photo available.housetsu@gmail.comTies, Versace, two, in original giftbox ¥3000/each. ¥5000/both. Pick upShinjuku. likeme4u@hotmail.comWedding dress, white, size US 4-6/Japan9-11 (adjustable lace corset) ¥30,000.Ikebukuro area. chemists_at_large@yahoo.com7.3 MISCELLANEOUSFile folders, B1 size, three available,w/cute designs ¥750/all. Pick up orchakubarai. Photo available. housetsu@gmail.comPortable navigation, CiVi, as new, w/box, manual, all accessories ¥8000.mizi2005@hotmail.com8 COMPUTERS8.2 HARDWAREHD, two available, Fujitsu SCSI, Ultra 320SCSI, 68-pin, 10,000rpm, 36GB ¥1000/each. deshayes.g@gmail.comLaptop, Latitude i5, 6GB RAM, 250SSD, Win 7 Pro, w/Japanese keyboard¥34,000. Tokyo. nrad_bob@hotmail.comLaptop, Panasonic, Intel Core 2 Duo,80GB, Wi-Fi, DVD multi-drive, 12”display, Microsoft Office Suite, E/Win 7,good battery life ¥11,000. tokyonice@ymail.comLaptops: Sony Vaio VGN-C71B/W,1.66GHz, 2GB RAM, 120GB HD, Win 7, loosegraphics card; Lesance, 1.50GHz CPU, 2GBRAM, 20GB HD, Win 8, power cord (jiggleto recharge). andyfuga@gmail.com10 HELP!10.1 HELP MEAtheist show needs hosts. We promotepositive atheism, knowledge, commonsense, skepticism and so forth. Similar toAtheist Experience on YouTube. assassin.wolves.films@gmail.comClimate expert needed to talk aboutthe human impact on the environment.assassin.wolves.films@gmail.comNeed to locate vendor/business.I need to source a business that cansupply custom graphics/vinyls, and thesame/another one that can supply customT-shirts. East Tokyo or Chiba. Any ideas?japan@roughsmoke.comSponsorship. Ten years' experiencein cafe/bar work, including working atinternational hotels. I'd like to opena cafe/bar, but need sponsorship.Individuals and companies are welcome.Please, if interested, let us come to anagreement. samueladonkor@gmail.com 090-6152-627410.2 SUPPORTNEED TO TALK? We’re hereto listen. TELL LIFELINE: free,anonymous English counselingdaily from 9am-11pm by trainedvolunteers: 03-5774-0992.TELL COUNSELING:affordable multilingualpsychotherapy by accreditedWestern-trained professionals,a CIGNA International Provider:03-4550-1146. TELL website:www.telljp.com. Follow uson Facebook and Twitter @TokyoLifeLine.THE JAPAN HELPLINE, 24 hoursa day, from anywhere, aboutanything. From emergencyassistance to simple questions.Visit www.jhelp.com/ and press“help,” or call 0570-000-911.To volunteer or support, pleasecontact team@jhelp.com. www.jhelp.com/WEST PAPUA: ONE SOUL, ONEPEOPLE. Fifty-one years ago,West Papua should have been anindependent country. Since 1969,West Papua has been invadedand the people robbed of theirrights, culture and country. Helpsupport West Papuans’ desire tobe free. http://tapol.gn.apc.org/markhelp2@gmail.comALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS TOKYO.If you have a problem with drinking, wecan help. English-speaking meetingsdaily. 03-3971-1471 inquiries@aatokyo.org http://aatokyo.orgHIV Peer Support group and workshops.Get together with people in the sameboat as you, who understand. Held ina safe, considerate, 100% confidentialsetting to discuss what’s on your mind,ask questions and make new friends.info@peersupporttokyo.com www.peersupporttokyo.comInfertility support group. TTC Tokyois an infertility support group thatprovides informal opportunities forwomen and men experiencing infertilityto connect with one another. Please visitwebsite for more info. admin@ttctokyo.org www.ttctokyo.orgTo advertise in Metropolis, Japan’sNo.1 English magazine, log on at www.metropolis.co.jp/classifieds or emailyour commercial ads to commercial@metropolisjapan.com.10.3 LOST FRIENDSSeeking Mindy. Is Mindy Mack,a petite blonde teachingassistant from L.A., still inTokyo? Any info appreciated.m106819151-tsky@yahoo.com11 MESSAGES11.1 PERSONAL MESSAGESWRITE A MESSAGE FORYOUR SPECIAL SOMEONE!Write anything, from birthdaymessages to proposals. http://classifieds.metropolis.co.jp.12 SOCIAL SCENE12.1 LET’S PARTYJAPAN INTERNATIONALPARTY—Autumn Festival.Sat, Nov 22, 6:30-9pm, BarQuest (Roppongi). Japan’sbiggest international party.250 people expected. All-youcan-drinkand free snacks.Japanese men: ¥4000.Others: ¥3000. Mobile: http://getyourfriend.com/mobile/jiparty@hotmail.com http://www.getyourfriend.com/090-1735-5405JOIN THE BIGGEST,BEST, MOST POPULARINTERNATIONAL PARTY!Great people, drinks andfood! Meet new friendsand party with nice peoplein a friendly atmosphere.Events in Tokyo (Ginza,Azabu, Roppongi) andOsaka. ¥1500-¥2000.http://english.gaitomo.com/info@gaitomo.comSUBSCRIBE TO METROPOLISAND NEVER MISS AN ISSUE.One year (24 issues) ¥3600(corporate subscribers, 7-100copies ok ¥22,560). Half year(12 issues) ¥1800 (corporatesubscribers, 7-100 copies ok¥12,000). Bank transfer orcredit card (Visa, Mastercard,Diners Club). Details athttp://metropolisjapan.com/subscription.INTERNATIONAL PARTY ATLEAFCUP. Come join us and havefun. Men: ¥3000. Foreigners/women: ¥2000. All-you-candrink-and-eat.Iidabashiand Yokohama: Nov 1 and 15.Shibuya: Nov 8 and 22. www.leafparty.com13 CLUBS & INTERESTS13.1 SPORTSA MERICAN FOOTBALL.Nihon Unisys Bulls, X leagueCentral Division, seeks fit players w/US college football experience forall positions. Practice every Sat/Sunfrom 10am-3pm (including meeting)in Tokyo/Saitama (time & venuesubject to change). Attendanceat practice must be over 60%.Please contact for tryout info andsend your profile to team admin.bullsxleague@gmail.com http://www.unisys.co.jp/football/ALL-NATIONALITY TOUCHFOOTBALL. Non-contact tag rugby(OZ tag) and Rugby League players.We play every Sat from 10am inTatsumi. M/F and beginners welcome!Good exercise and fun! Manyother activities, such as BBQs anddrinking parties! Email for details.tokyorugbyleague@hotmail.comhttp://ameblo.jp/tokyo13warriorsAMATEUR RUGBY LEAGUEPLAYERS. Japan ANZACS RugbyLeague team is seeking RugbyLeague players for JapaneseRugby League official gamesfrom Apr to Sep. Everyonewelcome. Contact for more details.japananzacs@gmail.comFUN WITH TOUCH RUGBY! Joinus for social or competitive touchrugby every Sat at 2:30pm by Ariakestn, Yurikamome line. Any age, sex,level ok. Please email for details.funwithtouch@gmail.com http://www.funwithtouch.com/where-we-play/PLAY RUGBY. The TokyoCrusaders are a friendly butkeen international rugby club.Devoted to the game and itssocial side, the “Cru” welcomesall players and supporters.Established in 1990, the Cru playsin the Shuto League 1st Division.http://www.facebook.com/tokyo.crusaders www.tokyocrusaders.comTAMBOURELLI. Unique newsport from Scotland. Using atambourine-like instrument as aracquet, players hit a shuttlecock.We play two or three times/monthon weekends in Meguro with manysocials. Join us! More details: www.tamjapan.org/en/ info@tamjapan.orgAll-level tennis group in Tokyo.Serious and motivated tennis playerssought by active tennis group to jointheir weekly sessions in central Tokyo.We have advanced and intermediategroups on weekday evenings. Beginnerand low-intermediate also welcome.No entrance or membership fees.Reasonable participation fees. tokyo.tennis@yahoo.frDon's Half-Fast Flash-Mob WeekendUrban Bicycle Rides. halffastcycling@hotmail.comFutsal players wanted by a very friendlyinternational team. Practice is in Tokyoand Kanagawa on Sat. Details available.fkkyn468@ybb.ne.jpInterested in tai chi? Then why not startnow? Take a step to counter the stressesof daily living. Practice is in Toyama Parkon Sun mornings, near Takadanobaba stn.chifact@gmail.comNew players sought, especially goalkeeper and strikers, for regular futsal,11-a-side, socials. Any nationalityok. kantocelts@gmail.com www.kantoceltsfc.comQuality football. Interested in playingfootball at the weekend and trainingmidweek? Want to enjoy a few beersafter a good run out? If you consideryourself a quality player, please dropus a note. bfcvagabonds@gmail.comSamurai and ninjutsu martial arts.Seeking people interested in trainingin old-style Japanese fighting arts.Effective and intelligent, but safetraining approach. rootarty@gmail.comTable tennis in Minato-ku. Hi,our international team is seekingexperienced players. You need tobe living or working in Minato-kuand commit to play ten times/yearon Sundays (all day). No beginners,please. fgrideau@gmail.comWomen’s football club. Five-aside,11-a-side, on grass fields. Twoor three practices/matches on Sun.All nationalities, experience levels,beginners welcome. Happy andfriendly club! We have many socials.djnorio@hotmail.co.jp13.2 LEISUREMACARTHUR HEIGHTS.Take a break where GeneralDouglas MacArthur did! Onehour from Tokyo by car or directtrain. Beautiful cabins on theocean, w/onsen, beach, shopping.housinginjapan@yahoo.comFree Japanese home cooking. Japanesehousewife offers free washoku homecooking class in English at her house nearKawasaki stn on weekday days. You paythe cost of ingredients. tome.harukasoushi@ezweb.ne.jpLet’s cook together. Why don’t you comeover to my kitchen (Japanese woman inShinagawa) to learn how to make yummyhome-style Japanese dishes? Washoku,Western food, Chinese, etc. Only pay foringredients. Women only. cookjapon@gmail.comTokyo ET contact group. Join us beneaththe stars as we endeavor to make contactwith ET visitors and their craft. nakanosky@gmail.com http://www.meetup.com/Tokyo-ET-Contact-Group/events/193113322/Tokyo Snow Club. A ski/snowboard clubfor anyone living in, or visiting Tokyo. Wego on big group trips every weekend inthe winter. Powder, live music events,and parties in snow. Membership is free!info@tokyosnowclub.com http://www.tokyosnowclub.com 050-5806-561613.4 MUSICA cappella group. Miss singing? Joinour singing group! We sing orchestralclassical music only in human voice,conducted by a professional a cappellasinger. ryusei@acappella-cantabile.jp http://acappella-cantabile.jp/?page_id=202Female backing/joint main singer. Hi,seeking female singer for a Tokyo band—two Japanese, two British members.We play UK-style indie rock, havemany songs, play live sometimes butneed to improve vocals. 日 本 語 もok.stevendparker@hotmail.comJM support guitarist seeks singer.I’m a Japanese guitarist in Tokyo. I’dlike to help with your singing. Pleaselet me play your songs. Let’s street gigtogether in Tokyo. I like pop, rock, punk.riku_hiroxx@hotmail.comKeyboardist sought by funk/fusionband. Any nationality is welcome.Come for a tryout. christianpelissero@yahoo.frMusicians wanted. Seekingkeyboards, drums, guitars and Vox totake my music live and into the studioto record. You must be able to rehearseweekends in central Tokyo. Listen tomy SoundCloud playlist. xp_sucks@hotmail.com https://soundcloud.com/shinopshino_being/setsMusicians wanted to play northernEuropean/Scandinavian music together,especially accordionist. Rehearse acouple of times/month in Nakano. We aretwo violinists, flutist, bassist, guitaristand pianist. unicornio@nifty.comSeeking jazz members. Japanese maleseeking jazz players for fun in the Tokyoarea. I’ve been playing the alto sax for acouple of years. Still amateur, but wantto play with others. Please feel free tocontact me. yossynet@ra2.so-net.ne.jp13.5 MIND, BODY, SPIRITDiamond Way Buddhism Tokyo. Doyou want to explore your own mind?Guided Buddhist meditation every Sun,6pm, near Azabu-Juban. Internationalpractitioners, beginners welcome,Japanese spoken. Please call 090-3598-3072 for more information.daginia@gmail.com http://www.diamondway.jp/Iro-Do Cafe meeting. Volunteerhealing meeting in Tokyo. Don’t hesitateto contact me if you need help. winds_fr@hotmail.comTibetan Buddhist meditation inTokyo. Part of the Karma Kagyu schoolof Tibetan Buddhism. This schoolputs special focus on meditationpractice. Regular guided meditationsSun from 7pm. findlay65@gmail.comhttp://www.meetup.com/Tibetan-Buddhist-Meditation-In-Tokyo-Japan/080-4389-8818Tokyo Dialogue. We have beenmeeting in the heart of the concretejungle called Tokyo for 10 years tocreate an oasis of calm reflection andlistening. findlay65@gmail.com http://tokyodialogue.wordpress.com/Zen meditation (Zazen). You’ve alwaysthought it would be interesting to tryit—why not now? Join us Fri evenings atTokuun-in in Ueno. Make arrangementsin advance by email, and check ourhome page. tokyozazen@jcom.home.ne.jp www.wgthorpe.com13.6 RELIGIOUSSeeking a Baptist church withoutjudgmental people, many Englishspeakers, and where everyone is innormal clothes? Contact me and let’smeet at Higashi-Shinjuku stn, exit A2, Sunat 10:30am. paytyt@gmail.com13.8 PROFESSIONALTokyo Traders Club. Internationalclub for traders and investors. Discussopportunities in stocks, commodities andforex. Many regular events, including FXtrading workshop. New to trading? Noproblem; beginners also welcome.You can also learn to trade. Join free!info@tokyotraders.com http://www.tokyotraders.com/ 080-5681-132133

13.9 INTERNATIONALIntercultural activities. JII (JapanIntercultural Institute) is a non-profit,member-run organization that sponsorsactivities (seminars, cultural events,conferences) for those wanting to furtherdevelop intercultural competenciesand meet other interculturalists. yuko.bolick@japanintercultural.org www.japanintercultural.orgNihongo 倶 楽 部 いんたぁなしょなる.Nihongo Club International is a volunteergroup to help foreign people learnJapanese at the Tokyo Volunteer ActionCenter in Iidabashi. Every Thu, 7-9pm.nci_tokyo@yahoo.co.jp14 PERSONALS14.1 FRIENDSAerial partner. Anyone want to studyaerial silks or ring together as trainingpartners? We can exchange conditioningtechniques, work out together. Dance,yoga, gymnastics, or ballet backgroundwould be great to help me increase myflexibility. kokoryta@hotmail.comCanadian dude seeks friendship.I'm in Kinshicho seeking friends to helpwith visa/living issues, friendship. M/Fok. I will be going back to Canada in Decunless I can apply for a work visa. I'minterested in world travel. nekobot14@gmail.comCoffee in Machida. Would anyonefrom Western countries (especiallynorthern Europe) like to have a cup ortwo of coffee together with an EnglishspeakingJF, 30s, in/around the Machidaarea? Please be nonsmokers, late 20s-30s. b2jw13@hotmail.co.jpDanes wanted. JF, 30s, into Denmarklike crazy! Nogen dansker i Tokyo ellerKanagawa at moedes til kaffe og hjaelpemig at laere dansk lidt? Please vaereikke-ryger, late 20-30s. Glaeder migtil at hoere fra jer! codename107113@live.comExpand my horizons. JF hopes tomeet English speakers (including nonnative)who can share nice friendships.I'd like to expand my horizons throughnew points of view from foreign people.Shall we have some tea? Nonsmokers,under 35 preferred. polkadots.1466@gmail.comFellow Japanese learners. Englishguy in Tokyo learning Japanese. I'mseeking other people who are alsolearning Japanese to hang out with,share language tips and resources,and share occasional frustrations. MyJapanese isn't great (yet!). vint.snap@gmail.comFeminine white crossdresser living inTokyo seeking friends. k.sweetdream@yahoo.comFood-business people. Seekingpeople working in the restaurant/foodindustry to get together occasionallyand exchange ideas and experiences—and have fun in general. vmnn1234@yahoo.comHello, I'm originally from New York.I love Tokyo, going out, meeting newpeople. Let's get dinner or drinks. I'ma bit quiet but not shy; adventurous,laid-back and friendly. I'm into art,music, movies, literature. mikenyus@hotmail.comLunch/afterwork friends in the Ginza/Tokyo stn/Yurakucho area. Professionalmale seeking lunch or afterwork drinksfriends. Friendly, open, world-minded,speaks multiple languages, enjoys life.You? advenchures+1224@gmail.comNot Japanese? English chap,internationally traveled, workingnear the Imperial Palace, seekinginternational people for drinks andchats after work. Any non-Japanesenationality ok. Tell me your storyin a few lines when you contact me.greenteais.yummy@gmail.comSeeking friends in central Tokyo. JF,early 30s, seeks friends to hang out within central Tokyo. atkm92@yahoo.co.jpSeeking Thai friends. I am a JM, 40s,interested in the culture of Thailand,seeking Thai friends for fun times andhanging out together. friendlyjapon@yahoo.co.jp14.2 MEN LOOKING FOR WOMENSUBMISSIVE SJM, 36, cute, isseriously seeking a woman who isinto, or interested in, dominatingmen. I am so submissive, with sevenyears’ experience, that I am happy totake whatever and serve you in anyway. slaveintokyo@gmail.comAttractive Irish guy seeking company.Irish male, fun, 30s, attractive, 6’1,visiting Japan for two weeks in mid-Nov, seeking attractive local ladies fora drink or to show me around. timlinch@yahoo.comAmerican guy. Mature man, late 40s,living in Yokohama, needs Japanesewoman for dining out, movies, beaches,games, reading, parties, fitnessand much more. Free on weekends.gonzo33@outlook.comAre you the one? Seeking a daytimefriend to play and to practice speakingEnglish and Japanese. You should be aJF, 21-45. Any size ok. Me: WM, 35, slim,fit, interesting, easy to smile/laugh with.martin30181@gmail.comArtistic American guy, 38, my fatherspoke German, born in America, livednear Santa Monica. Now near TokyoTower. Athletic, love artistic expression,restaurants, fashion, R&B. Please liveor work in central Tokyo and be openminded.tokyotwr10@yahoo.comAttractive black girl? Handsome,young, very athletic, blond Americanguy seeking beautiful black girl, anynationality, under 40. I speak a little ofmany languages, so mail and give it ashot! Shallumain@yahoo.co.jpAttractive black male seeking attractiveand sexy girlfriend, single/married, funto be around, seeking intimacy. I'm 36,intelligent, 183cm, athletic, from NY,working in IT, living in Ota-ku. I enjoymovies, running, relaxing. Please sendyour photo. goldfinger726@gmail.comAttractive JM for SWF. Seekingattractive Western female with a nicesmile. If you are interested in chattingover coffee or nice food, please contactme and let me know. I am lookingforward to your contact. Just try once.juniperten2013@gmail.comAttractive SJM seeks a nice Westernor Japanese female for friendship andpossibly more. Nonsmokers preferred. Iam confident that I can create happy andfun times for you. If you are ready, emailme. cioinjapan@gmail.comBritish male, 31, friendly, tall, slim,seeking a nice girl to hang out with.Nationality/race unimportant, but shouldbe 20-35 and have a nice personality.Interested in music and film: you shouldbe, too. shiodomebye@gmail.comBritish-Australian gentleman.Hello, I am an Oxbridge-educatedBritish-Australian gentleman seekinga single Japanese lady for friendshipand marriage. I will be in Tokyo andKyoto in Nov and would like to have anemail exchange beforehand. stjdavid@googlemail.comCan we be friends? Married man forhousewife. Can we exchange emails andmeet sometimes for a coffee together?Serious but slightly lonely marriedgentleman here. vbcfgt@hotmail.comCan you be my sweet girlfriend? SWM,good-looking, working in finance, seekinga sweet girlfriend. I like reading, keepingfit, movies. Let’s go out for a drink orcoffee. atatakaijohn@yahoo.co.jpCaring and cute JM seeks attractive,hearty, nonsmoking Western female forfriendship. I simply would like to sharefun, interesting and great experienceswith you. If you feel the same way, justdrop me a line. jinzaixyz@yahoo.co.jpCarpe diem. Genuine, attractive,down-to-earth SJM, 40s, is seekinga serious relationship. Would love tomeet a lady who is sincere, active andsophisticated. Let’s have coffee to seeif there’s good chemistry between us.toshinoris1012@yahoo.co.jpChinese, Singaporean, Indian...?British guy, 30s, seeking non-Japanesewomen to hang out with, maybe more.It may seem obvious, but please onlycontact me if you have time to meet. NoJapanese seeking marriage with a gaijin,please! greenteais.yummy@gmail.comConfident, tall, thrill-giving manseeks Japanese woman who wants herbody to explode with feelings she neverknew existed. This is a journey which youwill treasure forever. Nonsmokers only,23-26. I’m white, international British.Japanese ok. erolp.x.ei@gmail.comDecent JM available. Seeking a cheerfuland mature lady. I’m 30s, financiallysecure, clean, living in Tokyo, enjoyinglife. Let’s have dinner or drinks to getto know each other first. Prefer non-Japanese. Casual date? gb_0606@yahoo.co.jpFemale friend, please. UK male,36, seeks female friends for drinking,chatting, maybe more. I want a friendwith benefits, but just a normal friendwould be nice, too. In a relationship,but not happy. Let's meet for a chat.zzztopsandfingers@hotmail.co.ukFood, wine and romance. Attractive,physically fit, romantic, passionateSWM, 40s, seeking romantic, elegant,attractive Japanese woman for a seriousrelationship. Cooler weather is here—let's explore restaurants, weekendgetaways and great times together.herbsandspices1712@gmail.comHandsome, sweet, smart Japaneseman seeks SWF who seeks secret happyevents in her spare time in Tokyo. Single/married ok. Shall we begin to talk? Ithink this opportunity will be a great onefor us. followupforme14@gmail.comHang out. Here from London. Will bestaying in Japan for a while. Want tomeet new people to hang out with,enjoy drinks, do new things. I'm notthe Roppongi type, so no Roppongilovers, please. Nonsmokers only.englishmobile@outlook.comI'm not an SNS guy. Seeking a newrelationship with a nice female—no liesand stress-free. I'm a single Japanesemale, cool and sweet, not the party-guytype. I'm truly honest. getloud999-hello@yahoo.co.jpI’m not like most foreigners in Tokyo.I don’t dream of cute girls. I’ve lived inseveral countries, enough to understandJapanese and other cultures. My humoris playful, silly. Can you handle a nontypicalgaikokujin? Seeking 20s only.m3_3m@outlook.comItalian or Spanish? British guy seekingItalian or Spanish woman living inTokyo. Have drinks, some fun. Send mea message and tell me about yourself.summerfunk@googlemail.comLife is short. Recently single Britishman, 36, seeks Japanese woman fora drink, chat and hopefully more if welike each other. Life is short and I want tomeet someone new. Life is for living, solet's drink. happylamp@hotmail.co.ukMarriage. White Canadian male,44, seeking a woman for a seriousrelationship leading to marriage. Iam too old to play any games. If youare really serious, please contact me.martin_coman@hotmail.comMarried gentleman seeks love withmarried gentlewoman. Is it possible?Maybe not. vbcfgt@hotmail.comMassage for JF in Yokohama, Tokyo.Hello, tall Spanish man can give youprivate オイルマッサージ。いかがですか? 興 味 があれば 連 絡 下 さい。maldonado_4649@yahoo.co.jpMature and sophisticated Japanese,some have said charming, seeking anelegant, passionate, kind SWF. I dreamabout wild nights as well as sharing thesimple pleasures of love. Is that you?imak1_2_3@yahoo.co.jpMature man for mature woman.Attractive, mature European man,50, seeks a Japanese lover. I prefersomebody around my age (40s-60s). Iam highly cultured and like Japaneseladies very much. vbcfgt@hotmail.comNeed love. Handsome Englishgentleman, moderate build, mid-30s, needs beautiful, passionate JF. Iam handsome, fun, intelligent, wellmanneredand empathic. Let's haveromance together. Please send photow/email. I'm looking forward to hearingfrom you. edanoki@gmail.comJ O B STo advertise:commercial@metropolisjapan.com03-4588-2277CHAT HOSTS AND TEACHERS WANTED BYLEAFCUP in Tokyo, Iidabashi, Shibuya,Yokohama. Seeking enthusiastic,proficient English, French,Spanish and/or German speakerswho can teach and lead livelyconversations. ¥1,000-¥1,500/h.Apply online: hr@leafcup.comwww.leafcup.com/job.phpSEEKING FEMALE THERAPIST f o rAyurvedic massage, oil and othermassages. Mixture of commission andhourly pay (approximately ¥200,000~¥300,000/m). Previous experienceas massage therapist not necessary,but Japanese conversational skillsmay be required. Shift-work between11am and 5am the next morning.Locations: Shibuya, Roppongi,Shinjuku, Ikebukuro, Ueno, etc.Visa required. 03-5842-5393 http://mominokihouse.jpプロジェクトマネージャー・コーディネーター 募集 。 六 本 木 にあるMetropolis Magazineは、バイリンガルスタッフを 募 集 しています。 経験 :デザイン・ 広 告 業 界 の 経 験 、 進 行 管 理 の 経 験があれば 尚 可 。 能 力 :コミュニケーション 能 力 、 協調 性 、 日 本 語 に 堪 能 、ビジネスレベルの 英 語 力 。条 件 : 平 日 9:30-18:30 待 遇 : 面 接 にて。jobs@metropolis.co.jpまで、 履 歴 書 ・ 職 務 経 歴 書 ( 和文 / 英 文 )をご 送 付 下 さい。 書 類 選 考 の 上 、ご 連 絡させて 頂 きます。METROPOLIS is seeking motivatedbilingual (E/J) sales executives,support staff and interns to join itsadvertising and marketing team.Send E/J resume to jobs@metropolis.co.jp.New in Tokyo. Otemachi-basedEnglish male. Loves life here. Loveshis job. Has great friends. Enjoysphotography, walking around with aclear mind, fresh pasta, wine. Wouldlike to meet nonsmoker, mid-20searly30s. summerfunk@googlemail.comNo English? 銀 行 で 働 いてるイギリス 人 が 日 本 の 女 の 子 探 してる 。 英語 分 からない 女 の 子 欲 しい。 vint.snap@gmail.comPeople from Southeast Asia,etc. I long for a warm climate andbeautiful nature. Women who live insuch places are my type. DivorcedJapanese, gentle, kind, mid-40s, nokids, seeking someone who will sweareternal love. patri9@excite.co.jpProfessional, educated, outgoing,handsome, looking to date. WhiteAmerican guy currently staying inTokyo. Would like to grab some coffeeor lunch together to start off with andthen take it from there. I am reallymature and open-minded. brdt7465@hotmail.comRomance and dating. Very nice andsexy gentleman seeks an older —or mucholder—woman to have nice dates and aromance. feeltokyo@yahoo.co.ukRoppongi lover? White guy seeks funlovinggirl, 20-25 only, to chill with.titanislander+r@gmail.comSeeking a pocchari, fun-lovingJapanese lady. Passionate, welleducated,successful, nonsmoking,well-traveled married male is seeking aWAITER/WAITRESS WANTED BYCLUB APOLLO TOKYO IN ROPPONGI.Requirements: work at least threedays/week for five hours or morebetween 10pm and 6am, residentcard, E/J conversation ability. From¥1000-/h. Employees who workmore than four days/week receivetransportation reimbursement.Call 080-1215-6488 or emailapolloroppongi@gmail.com.KINCARN INTERNATIONALKINDERGARTEN in Kawasaki isseeking an English speaker, anynationality ok, to fill a position:teaching or childcare, 2-6 year olds.School hours: 8am-6pm. Full-time:Mon-Fri (40h/week) ¥215,500~.Part-time: four days/week (32h/week)¥170,500~. Please email resume toinfo@kincarn.com. 044-233-3970 www.kincarn.comORGOGLIO DEL CASALTA ITALIANRESTAURANT seeks kitchen supportstaff, dishwasher and service staff.E/J conversation skills necessary,Italian cooking experience a plus,proper visa required, 3-4 days/week ¥1000-¥1200/h. キッチンスタッフ 募 集 。1F Hiroo Bldg, 3-12-40 Hiroo,Shibuya-ku. 03-6418-5896/090-2776-3182 donorgoglio@gmail.comwww.orgogliodelcasalta.comMETROPOLIS IS SEEKING AN E/JBILINGUAL INTERN to join the mostsuccessful English-languageadvertising team (Restaurants &Bars) in Japan. Great opportunityto learn about advertising in anexciting environment. No pay, buttransportation provided. Please faxyour E/J resume to 03-4588-2278 oremail knakashima@metropolisjapan.comchubby, open-minded Japanese womanfor a loving relationship. enjoylife_321@yahoo.comSeeking a serious relationship. I'm aSWM neuroscientist, 31, from Manchester,UK, seeking a well-educated, cuteJapanese partner, preferably under 28,for a long-term serious relationship.pulerd@hotmail.comSeeking female swimming mate. Iseek a female swim mate for periodicalpractice after work and weekends. Iam a JM, 40, working in central Tokyo.Western female under 45 preferred.youdidntsaythat@yahoo.co.jpSeeking fun. SWM, 28, French, seekingpeople who want fun like me. My life isstable, but boring and stressful. I needexcitement for my mental health balance.34

If you feel the same way, contact me,please. reydajp@yahoo.co.jpSeeking Japanese female. Polish guy,51, cool and romantic, not overweight,doing sports daily, seeks Japanesefemale, 30-50, for a long-term relationshipin Tokyo. qqt883hd@piano.ocn.ne.jpSeeking Japanese Muslim. ForeignMuslim man living in Japan is seeking aJapanese Muslim woman for exchangingvarious topics and for friendship. If anyoneis available, please send me a message.serioussa@gmail.com 09018388037Seeking large Japanese girlfriend.Canadian guy, 40s, open-minded, gentle,romantic, positive, seeks overweightgirlfriend for long-term relationship inTokyo. Serious only, please. bbalajan@yahoo.comSeeking married JF. Nice guy, 40s,gentle, romantic, open-minded, seeksto share great time with a married JF inTokyo. First, let's meet up over coffee andtalk. benjaminbenjamin12@yahoo.comSeeking mature JF. Cool guy, 40s,positive, romantic, honest, a gentleman,seeks JF, 40s-50s, for a long-termrelationship. nnazila73@yahoo.comSeeking Parisienne. Affluent andexcellent Japanese architectural engineeris seeking an attractive Parisienne whocan speak English. I visited Paris last Decand would like to know more about thecity. Give me the hot info on Paris now.imak1_2_3@yahoo.co.jpSeeking serious relationship. Europeanguy, early 40s, positive, easygoing,gentle, romantic, lots of hobbies, seekingfemale, 35-55, open-minded, easygoing,enjoys simple things. Speak Nihongo. Nobusy people, please. bbamian@yahoo.comSeeking serious, chubby JF. Europeanguy, 40, open-minded, easygoing, honest,faithful, seeks a JF who can meet up soon(not too many emails) for a long-termrelationship. Let's meet up over coffeeand talk. niman429@yahoo.comSeeking the last great love of my life.Your eye color, height, nationality, waistsize, blood type and marital status are ofno concern. What goes on in your head,behind your eyelashes, in the moremysterious parts of your body, at certaintimes and in certain moods—that's whereI'd be looking to connect. Try and see.slowcruiser@fastmail.fmSerious only. Kind, mature Japanese manwho feels lonely is seeking a woman whofeels the same. Any nationality, any age,any color. I am open to all your fantasies.Let's meet for a coffee and see where itgoes. toshinoris1012@yahoo.co.jpSerious relationship. Sincere, honestAmerican from Hawaii, blond hair, greeneyes, nice smile, muscular, working inTokyo, seeks serious relationship. I havea fun and kind personality, live and workin central Tokyo, am nonsmoking, goodlooking,speak Japanese. johnb254611@outlook.comSerious, long-term. SWM, 34, welleducatedand traveled, with a stablejob, seeks true love. If you are 20-30s,warm and caring, and seeking a seriouslong-term relationship, then please dropme an email. Serious only, no games. NoRoppongi girls, please. Lasagna5577@yahoo.comSingle French guy seeking a SJF, 30s,for a long-term relationship. I'm sweet,handsome, 177cm, do sports, live incentral Tokyo. I work in advertising andphotography. I like travel, onsen, movies.Nihongo mo ok. Email, w/photo. cdgnrt@yahoo.frSingle, handsome, caring and wittySJM seeks a nice Western or Japanesefemale for friendship or possibly more.Nonsmokers preferred. If you areinterested in exciting and happy timeswith me, email me now. cioinjapan@gmail.comSWM for a chat. SWM Brit, 36, seeking alady for casual, fun dating. Let's meet fora chat over coffee or beer and see if we likeeach other. No pressure. Life is too short.zzztopsandfingers@hotmail.co.ukUK lady. SJM, 30s, tall, slim, loverof books, films, and music, seeks anattractive British lady with the sameinterests. hurryondownboy@yahoo.co.jpWM in Tokyo seeking a pretty girl, 18-35.I am tall, white, with blue eyes. I speakJapanese. chrischrisjapan34@yahoo.comドイツ 人 28 歳 ( 結 婚 ). I am 28, seekinga nice JF for marriage. Please send me amail if you want to know more about me.kkkkeech@i.softbank.jp美 人 ? Seeking confident and veryattractive woman, 20-30, who alsohas an excellent personality and thinksthere's more to life than LV bags. Mustlike Englishmen. Send a long, detailedintroduction and wait for my reply. be-thebest@outlook.com銀 座 . White guy working near Ginzaseeking a woman, 22-29, to hang outwith, have some drinks after work. Makesure you give an intro—I won't reply if youdon't. wakaruyo@outlook.com14.3 WOMEN LOOKING FOR MENSINGLES-ONLY DATINGEVENTS EVERY FRI NIGHT forforeign men and Japanesewomen. Leave the event with anew date! Always more womenthan men. FREE if signing up inadvance! Otherwise, ¥2,000.info@exeo-international.comwww.exeo-international.comLAVISH DATES ANDINDULGENT NIGHTS—WECREATE OPPORTUNITIESfor elite foreign males to meetelegant Japanese females. Startwith a luxurious dinner date,takethe night where you want it to go.Fresh, young women join our clubevery day. Try our free one-monthtrial offer: first date is on us!0120-675-858 (E) international@universe-club.jp http://universeclub.jp/enDiscover fun in Tokyo together?Travelers welcome—I can show youaround! Let's discover nice things:dining, spas, music, vacation, etc. JF,late 30s, friendly, slim, tall, seeking aclassy, intelligent gentleman for dating.amynakagawa@outlook.jpDriven to work? Japanese woman, 30s,attractive, elegant, educated, seeks asuccessful businessman in Tokyo. Shefeels attracted to a man who is drivento work. He should be sincere and careabout her. springwinds14@yahoo.co.jpFrench gentleman sought byvoluptuous JF. Salut, a Caucasian Frenchmonsieur is sought by a JF, mid-40s, fora long-term relationship. Répondez, SVP.tama123_123@yahoo.co.jpFresh start. Attractive, cultured JF, 30s,seeks a good-looking young boyfriendwho can possibly have a long-termrelationship. He should be Caucasian,nonsmoking, cultured. No one-nightstands. nanaironohana24@yahoo.co.jpInternational-minded Japanese,early 30s, ready to start a relationship.If you are a laid-back, professional/independent guy of a similar mind,let’s see how it goes. Must be singlenonsmoker. Your introduction/photoappreciated. happi_coco14@excite.co.jpJF seeking friend. Hi there, I'mseeking someone who can hang outon weekends. Anyone interested? I'ma student, 22. I live in Kanagawa, butoften go to Tokyo. Hope to hear from you!sakurasaku7321@gmail.comLaugh and smile a lot. Let’s chat overa cup of coffee. Warmhearted, polite,chubby SJF, 41, laughs and smilesquite a bit, seeking sweet, sane singleCaucasian guy for a serious relationshipin Tokyo. camellia.sunflower@gmail.comLove long walks? Autumn leaves? I'man athletic, fun SJF, 39, not the Roppongitype. I'm seeking a guy who can have abig laugh with me. Serious, single only,please. enohpi4s@yahoo.caLove traveling? Attractive, feminine,bilingual, professional JF, enjoystraveling, scuba diving, music, reading,dining out, finer things in life, seekinga mature, sophisticated gentleman,35-45, for a meaningful relationship.Would love to multiply happiness bysharing. icedcoconutmilktea@hotmail.comMature JF seeks movie friends.Interested in film festivals (TokyoInternational, Swedish, Indian), theaterand a fun chat over coffee afterwards?I am 50-ish. Please be around my age,intelligent and cultured. No photoavailable. altoids301-szka@yahoo.co.jpOriental beauty. Long raven hair, fineskin, toned yet with a very womanlyframe and curves. SJF, educated, fun,brainy, mid-40s, maturity with a girlyface, totally bilingual. You: single,articulate, international, hard-workingprofessional American, 40s or older.lemon_somehearts@yahoo.co.jpProfessional, cute female seekinga good partner. Well-educated,independent JF, 30s, seeking aprofessional, fun, faithful man. Oftentravel abroad for work, but would liketo have a good partner at home. Photo,please. Serious only. mitanon3@gmail.comSeeking Frenchman for seriousrelationship. I'm a SJF, 30s, interestedin France, seeking a relationship witha sincere and intelligent Frenchman,25-50. No language exchange or games,please. Serious only. framboisier@inter7.jpSeeking Mr. Right. JF, 37, withbeautiful kids, seeks loyal, hardworkinggentleman to spend the futurewith. If you are in the same situation,please let me know. Serious only.keiko2011tokyo@yahoo.co.jpSeeking nice Japanese or Koreanman. SJF, 40, is seeking an intelligentman for a serious relationship startingfrom friends. I'm intelligent, speakEnglish and some Korean. I live in Tokyo.2010mirai@gmail.comSexy JF seeks a gentleman fromcontinental Europe. JF, mid-40s, Tokyo"habitant" seeks a gentleman, 40-60,over 175cm, who would enjoy not onlybed activities but conversation. Pleasewrite. tama123_123@yahoo.co.jp14.4 GAY & LESBIANSeeking Asian shemale. European guy,40s, good-looking, kind, open-minded,positive, seeks Asian shemale in Tokyo.Let's share great times together. solivan.solivan@yahoo.com14.5 ESCORTSESCORTS have gone online.To find a lovely ladycompanion, visit http://classifieds.metropolis.co.jp/category/personals/escorts.14.6 AND OTHERSBilingual bisexual couple seekinganother bilingual bisexual couple.Simple. happyballoon2@outlook.comSeeking Japanese couple. I am a whiteEuropean living in central Tokyo. I wouldlike to meet a nice Japanese couple tohave a good time together. I can speakJapanese. aloysius171@yahoo.fr15 JOBS15.1 JOB WANTEDNEED A BABYSITTER?My name is MerindaMasuda. 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RELATIONSYAMATO PRIDEBY GRACE BUCHELE MINETAThe first openly gay person my husband met was American. In fact,growing up in rural Japan, before he got to college, he was kind ofunder the impression that gay Japanese men were like unicorns andchild geniuses—you saw them on TV from time to time, but they didn’tactually exist.He met his first openly gay Japanese person at the 2012 RainbowPride Parade in Yoyogi Park. We were both decked out in rainbowsand flag hats to support one of our closeted friends participating in themarch. Along the way, we met an interracial same-sex couple: A niceAmerican man married to a Japanese man, with a small baby.*The Rainbow Pride Parade is held in April each year大 和 プライド私 の 夫 が 初 めて 会 ったオープンなゲイの 人 はアメリカ 人 でした。 大 学 に 入 学 するまでずっと 田 舎 で 育 ったため、 夫 は 日 本 人 のゲイはユニコーンみたいにテレビでは 見 るけど 実 在 しないものだと 思 っていました。初 めて 夫 がオープンな 日 本 人 のゲイの 人 に 会 ったのは2012 年 の 代 々 木 公 園 でのゲイパレードの 際 でした。 私 たちはパレードに 参 加 した 仲 良 しのゲイの 友 達 を 応 援 するためにレインボー 色 の 服 を 着 ました。そこで、 日 本 人 男 性 と 結 婚 したアメリカ 人 男性 に 出 会 いました。 二 人 には 赤 ちゃんがいました。※ レインボープライドパレードは 毎 年 4 月 実 施■ Grace Buchele Mineta is an author who blogs and draws comicsabout her daily life in Japan at www.HowIBecameTexan.com.♥ Love ¥ Money ♣ LuckhoroscopeBY CATHRYN MOEARIESMar 20-Apr 18 ♥♥ ¥¥¥¥ ♣♣♣TAURUSApr 19-May 19 ♥♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣GEMINIMay 20-Jun 20 ♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣CANCERJun 21-Jul 21 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣Where you would rather be? Or isthere no place other than whereyou are right now? Your mind mayflip-flop like a flapjack as you mull over options.With the North Node in your partnership sector,you can break new ground. At the sametime, there’s quite a busy underground when itcomes to sexy connections and who gets what.Check on agreements you’ve made in the pastand see if that’s still what is understood—thenjust enjoy yourself.LEOJul 22-Aug 21 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣♣The light of the stars is weighted inyour partnership sector. This appliesto you even if you’re single: Everywhereyou look, you may see couples holdinghands or hear songs that proclaim endlesslove. If you’re involved, you may not have timeto catch your breath as your partner fills everynook and cranny of your schedule. With that inmind, there are tasks you can set yourself to:You may even be looking at homes or expandingin some way. Break your personal rules.VIRGOAug 22-Sep 21 ♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣When you’re in the flow, you know it,and when you’re not, you may feel atloose ends. Isolation isn’t somethingVirgos crave—it’s just that your environmentmust reflect who you are, not someone else.Right now, you have Dark Moon Lilith, Jupiterand Juno in your solar twelfth house: They’rekicking up a bit of a fuss as they encourage youto do things your way, and they’re offering youa different kind of support. Be patient: Yourdreams are about to come through.CAPRICORNDec 21-Jan 19 ♥♥♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣If only you could fly above the frayand let the clouds settle wherethey will. Of course, you can dothis, but you will have to land sometime. You’refine until others start to overbalance what youhad in mind—luckily, you’re the negotiating airsign, able to say what needs to be done andencouraging smiles simultaneously. What goesup must come down, but your juggling skills areunparalleled. You’ll be feeling more secure toshare secrets soon.LIBRASep 22-Oct 22 ♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣♣What seems important is about tochange. Not because you’ve let goof your goals or your preferences—but you may have spent so much time beingthere for others that suddenly you have to putyourself first. Obstacles or blocked paths? Ittakes ingenuity to clamber up and over insteadof going straight through. You have somethingto offer that no one else does: The balance ofUranus and sudden shifts—and it just may bethe winning ticket.Everyone has their own specialstrengths; astrology accentuatesthe need to “live your chart.” Thisincludes being yourself as opposed to someoneelse—which is impossible, anyway. This week,your partner may seem like a powerhouse, butthe truth is they need your strength and supportto carry on. If you’re single, your ability to enjoy anight in or out is enviable to others. Gather yourstrength as next week is going to be more thanmemorable.SCORPIOOct 23-Nov 21 ♥♥ ¥¥¥¥ ♣♣♣You’re not the type to skim the surfaceand never look beneath. This weekyou can let yourself float, stay connectedand still be a mystery to others. Focuson the tasks at hand and you’ll find you’vesurfed through what could have been tumultuouswaters. While emotions are what motivateyou, they can also wear you out, so save yoursfor your own goals as you discover what reallymakes you tick. Stability and financial securityare yours and coming soon! Go for it.There may be someone in your orbitwho is supportive of you just the wayyou are—but with Dark Moon Lilith inLeo, who you are is capable of surprising everyone.Oh sure, it may be a tiny whisper in your earat the moment: You may be watching yourselffrom the perspective of your previous deeds,which is highly recommended. Jupiter and Junoin your sign suggest you’re safe to move aheadwith your latest ideas—and the truth is, they’reprobably right.SAGITTARIUSNov 22-Dec 20 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣♣AQUARIUSJan 20-Feb 17 ♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣♣PISCESFeb 18-Mar 19 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥¥ ♣♣♣Usually, you’re busy wandering theglobe or expanding your creativespirit, but right now Uranus is in abeautiful trine aspect to Sagittarius—whichmeans love is a major topic. When it comes toromance and your creative expression, thereare all kinds of surprises. Develop your selfacceptance:Who you are is a boon to anyonewho comes in contact with you. Know this andbe comfortable when you start receiving recognition,if you haven’t noticed it already.Halloween has its place: It brings thegrit and truth of reality, and parodiesit—it can shake off fears and ghostsof the past. The more you let it happen, the easierit gets. So much of what has been importantis starting to dissolve, but what’s underneath isthe real gold. Mars has entered your sign, givingyou the energy and focus to make things happen.Assess yourself at your core: What is worthyour consideration? If all the world’s a stage,what parts do you want to play?You’re in the public eye—it’s fun, isn’tit?—and you’re complete in everymoment: You are already enough.Self-improvement is great, but actually, whatothers want is to be cared about. They’ll forgiveyou if everything isn’t “perfect,” becausewhat is? Let the shocks and surprises of whatyou hear around you be a form of motivation toenjoy what recent luck has brought you. Marsis gearing up to create a breakthrough throughthe realm of your dreams.If it seems like you’re doing the samething over and over, think again:There may be repetition, but you’realso going deeper, and this requires courage.You may feel resistance—right now, youmay be creating ways to sabotage your latestopportunity. Don’t you deserve to give yourselfa chance? Of course you do! You’re ruled byNeptune, the master of illusion. But the flip sideis divine love—that’s what you’re here for! Canyou do this? Of course: You were born for it!36

With an eye on the 2020 TokyoOlympics, the Cabinet adopted a billthat would lower the legal age forshooting an air gun from 14 to 10.the small printBY STEVE TRAUTLEINLINGO BOXShikaru( 叱 る)= scoldSan-gai( 三 階 )= third storyChūtai-sha( 中 退 者 )= (college) dropoutKumo-no-ito(クモの 糸 )= spider silkKeiba( 競 馬 )= horse racesI FEEL HAPPY BECAUSE I LOOK MOREATTRACTIVE.”—Mieko Ichimaru, 79, after attending a seminar on“cosmetic therapy” at a nursing home in TokyoAGE IS JUST A NUMBER⊲Officials ⊲ at the justice ministry will no longerrequire municipal authorities to investigatebirth registrations submitted by new mothersaged 50 and over.⊲An ⊲ 81-year-old man and his 78-year-old wifein Itabashi-ku were hospitalized after the husbanddrove their car off the third story of aparking garage.⊲Members ⊲ of an advisory panel to the educationministry have recommended that fifthgraderstake English classes as part of theirregular curriculum.⊲An ⊲ 18-year-old high school student in Akitaassaulted his teacher after she scolded himfor being “noisy.” The boy was arrested andthe teacher was taken to the hospital in seriouscondition.PONY UP⊲A ⊲ court in Osaka ruled that a man who lost¥810 million betting on horse races can deductthe money from his taxes.⊲Officials ⊲ at satellite broadcaster WOWOW saythey signed up a record 153,000 new sub-at a glanceBY ADAM GARWOODscribers last month, thanks largely to Kei Nishikori’shistoric run to the finals of the US Open.⊲A ⊲ contingent of Ainu and Okinawans traveledto the UN to attend the World Conferenceon Indigenous Peoples.⊲Executives ⊲ at DoCoMo say “no financial damage”has been reported in a security breachthat affected more than 6,000 customers.OFFICIAL BUSINESS⊲Officials ⊲ at Tokyo Metro say they’ll open anew station on the Hibiya line (between Kasumigasekiand Kamiyacho) in time for the2020 Olympic Games.⊲LDP ⊲ lawmakers have drawn up a bill makingso-called revenge porn a crime punishable byup to three years in prison.⊲The ⊲ Tokyo Metropolitan Government bestoweddistinguished citizen awards on artistKunitami Mitsuhashi, movie director Yoji Yamadaand baseball legend Shigeo Nagashima.TOUGH ALL OVER⊲Officials ⊲ at the education ministry say thenumber of college dropouts is rising, withCheck out Adam’s other work here: http://meturl.com/adam3stats94 Number of children under the age of13 who were victims of kidnapping in2013, according to the National PoliceAgency1,730,567 Used autos sold in Japanduring the first half of fiscal 2014—arecord low, according to the JapanAutomobile Dealers Association234 Number of train cars that Hitachiwill provide to a Dutch railway companyin a deal worth some ¥40 billion“financial difficulties” being the leading cause.⊲Meanwhile, ⊲the labor ministry says 22 percentof salaried employees under age 35 workmore than 50 hours a week.⊲Members ⊲ of the Board of Audit claim that,between fiscal 2010 and 2012, medical associationsin 34 prefectures overcharged thecentral government by more than ¥1.3 billionfor reimbursements related to treatments forthe elderly.⊲And ⊲ the National Federation of Health InsuranceSocieties reports that a record numberof Japanese people have medical expensesof at least ¥10 million a month.HOT UNDER THE COLLAR⊲Japanese ⊲ researchers say they’re having difficultymass producing spider silk strings. Thereason? Arachnids “tend to eat each other ifthey are kept together.”⊲The ⊲ government approved a plan by HokkaidoElectric Power Co. to raise its rates by15.3 percent early next year.⊲Authorities ⊲ at the Fire and Disaster ManagementAgency are crediting “a relatively coolAugust” with the nearly 4 percent drop in heatstrokecases this summer compared to last.⊲Bottom ⊲ Story of the Week: “More JapaneseTurning Nouns Into Verbs in Conversation: Survey”(via Mainichi Japan)Small Print Updated Weekly→ METURL.COM/SMALLPRINTCompiled from reports by AP, Japan Today, The Japan Times, Jiji, The TokyoReporter, The Mainichi, The Japan News, AFP, Reuters and Kyodo37

Expanding theComing OutNarrativeFROM CALIFORNIA TO JAPANDO WEHAVE TO BEVISIBLE TOEVERYONE,EVENIF THATMEANSPUTTINGOURSELVESINDANGER?”WANTTO HAVETHE LASTWORD?Send your article to:editor@metropolisjapan.comCAMERON KATAMARIBefore coming to Japan to become anEnglish teacher, I was heavily involvedin the LGBT community in SouthernCalifornia. We often discussedthe importance of being “out”and being proud of our identities,being confident in who wewere, and how our differencesproduced unique experiences.So one night in Japan, whenI found myself slightly tipsy atan after-school nomikai (drinkingparty) and realized that I wasgoing to come out to my coworker—aboutto assert my individualidentity on to a Japaneseperson—I was surprised by myhesitation. After all, I had beenout and proud with my family and friendsin the States for almost eight years. I wasfollowing the Western script of declaringspace for my identity to be discussedand wrestled with. I was making visiblewhat was previously invisible. And I wasdoing so in a space that was culturallysanctioned for “taking off the mask,” removingour flawless tatemae and sayingwhat we meant.And yet, there was this sinking fearsitting in my stomach. I remembered theone time at our bōnenkai (year-end party)when our school superintendent scoffedthat I was sitting like an okama (a faggot),my legs crossed and tucked to my sidein a lazy seiza lean. I remembered theaggressive lecture from my principal totake a date to Suidobashi, and to “take agirlfriend, not a boyfriend.”the last wordAt the time, I’d brushed the paternalisticlectures aside, but somehow they’dbecome lodged in my unconscious. Evenas I led my co-worker to the hallway of thesmall izakaya we were at, I paused, tryingto remember why I felt the need to comeout to my JTE. Did I want her verbalizedsupport? Did I want to change hearts andminds about queer people? Would shetell people? Would the board of educationfind out? How would this change theworking relationships I had built over thepast two years?Do we have to be visible in all partsof our lives? Do we have to be visible toeveryone, even if that means puttingourselves in danger—at risk of losingjobs, verbal harassment, fractured relationships?It wasn’t like I wasn’t open in otherparts of my life in Japan. I’d been theBlock 3 coordinator of Stonewall Japanfor the Kanto/Tokyo area for two years,running events for both the foreign andJapanese LGBT communities. I had myLGBT island, and I had my work island—and I kept them separate. Why did I wantto bridge them now? I had very little togain and possibly a lot to lose.Fumbling for the right words, I took adeep breath and told my JTE I was queer.She gave me a hug and thanked me forletting her know, and she promised tokeep it a secret. I found a strange senseof comfort in those words, knowing thatI hadn’t caused too many ripples in myworkplace relationships.When I showed up to work Tuesdaymorning, we exchanged quick nods beforereturning to our normal work routines.Although my friends back homewouldn’t have been satisfied with thisquiet acknowledgement of my identity,I felt a sense of relief.I also felt—and still feel—slightly melancholicabout the experience. In myJTE’s silent support for my queerness,I realized that my queerness was negligiblein the workplace. It didn’t seemto have a place, and I’m not sure it everwill. And that’s been a huge shift for me.Being so invested in LGBT organizingin California meant my queerness hadbeen the center of my identity. It framedmy friendships and all the projects I wasworking on—academic, literary and artistic.But here in the Japanese workplace,other parts of myself were the center: myhobbies, my foreignness and myEnglish ability. Queerness hadbecome compartmentalized,moved around and isolated toparticular (and important) spacesin my life outside of work. Ino longer see being “out andproud” as the primary way to flymy colors. I’ve found other waysof building community and sustainingit here in Japan.I’m still wrestling with thisrecent shift in consciousness.Coming to Japan, many sempaiex-pats warned me that Japanwas an extremely “closeted” society,where people were too timid to openlyembrace their identities. But I don’t feelit’s fair to judge a person (and an entiregroup of Japanese LGBT folks) based ontheir “out” status—especially in a culturethat’s different from how I was raised.The judgment of Japan as a “closeted”society is insensitive to the real, lived experiencesof Japanese LGBT-identifiedpeople. And I think it’s time to complicatethe discussions on visibility versus invisibility,the value of coming out as a toolof liberation, and the ongoing struggle todefine how we—as foreigners—engagewith queerness in Japan.Illustration by Christi Rochin■ Cameron Katamari is founder of bi-annualmagazine Homodachi and Friends. http://meturl.com/homodachiThe views expressed in “The Last Word” are those of the authors alone and do not necessarily reflect the position or opinions of Japan Partnership Co. Ltd. or its partners and sponsors.NEXT ISSUELAUGHTER KNOWSNO BORDERSTHANKSGIVINGTURKEY TIPSPhoto by Kohji ShiikiROLLER DERBYDEVASTATION38

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