International Boat Paint Guide & Colour Card - Boatpaint.co.uk

Boat Paint Guide& Colour CardUK Edition

Quick Reference GuideBoat Paint GuideContentsn AntifoulingsUse this guide to our antifouling productsto help you choose the perfect product foryour project.NEWNEWQuickReference GuideMicron ® OptimaMicron ® ExtraPolishingCruiser ® UNOBottomcoatSlow PolishingTrilux ® 33Interspeed ® UltraHardThin Film Special PurposeNavigator ® VC ® Offshore VC ® 17m Extra Trilux ® Prop-O-DrevBeforeYou StartKey attributesThinnersn For the absolute cleanest hullsn Minimum build-up – reducedpreparation timen Activated Biolux ® technology forsustained antifouling protectionn Water based – low odour,easy clean upWatern Premium, multi-seasoncopolymer antifouling forharshest fouling areasn 24 months protection fromone applicationn Minimum paint build up,washes away with usen Biolux ® technology forsustained antifouling protectionNo. 3n One season’s protectionin all but harshest foulingconditionsn One coat to save timen For power (up to 25 knots)and sail boatsn Can be re-immersedwithin 24 hoursn Cruising antifoulingoffering good level ofprotectionn Contains organic boosterto improve performancen Suitable for applicationseveral weeks prior toimmersionn Season-long performancen Slow polishing, avoidsseasonal paint build upn For all substrates includingaluminium; recommendedfor propellers and boottopsn Bright colours, includingbright whiten Effective fouling protectionfor up to 18 monthsn Ultra strong formulafor high fouling areasn Hard, durable finishn Biolux ® technology forsustained antifoulingprotectionNo. 3 No. 3 No. 3No. 3n Formulated specificallyfor use in fresh andbrackish watersn Provides a hardscrubbable finishn Can be applied up to3 months before launchNo. 3n Suitable for salt andfreshwatern Hard, smooth finishcan be burnished toa very low profilen For racing sailing andpower boatsVC ® GeneralThinnern Extra strong thin filmantifouling for racingsailboats and powerboatsn With fluoro microadditivefor a low friction surfacen Hard, smooth surfacen Quick drying for fastre-launchVC ® GeneralThinnern Aerosol application fordifficult to reach areasn For propellers, outboardsand sterngearn For aluminium, stainlesssteel and alloyn Biolux ® technology forsustained antifoulingprotectionVC ® General ThinnerFOR CLEAN UP‘Step-by-Step’Project GuidesThe CompleteAntifouling GuidePractical coverage (m 2 per litre) 8.3 9.0Number of coats 2-3 2-3 (1 season) / 3-4 (2 seasons)8.5 9.0 8.3 9.41-2 2-3 2-3 (1 season) / 3-4 (18 months) 2-38.2 9.9 11.71 can permedium-sized outdrive2-3 2-3 2-3 3 minimumThe CompleteTopsides GuideSubstratesSuitable for high speed craft✗✗✓Up to 25 knots✗✓✓✓Up to 25 knots✓ ✓ ✓Blister Repairand PreventionApplication methodSuitable for high fouling areasUse antifouling paints safely. Always read the label and product information before use.CONTINUES OVER ‘TroubleshootingGuideGRP WOOD STEEL ALUMINIUMBRONZESTAINLESS STEELBRUSH ROLLER AEROSOL GOOD EXCELLENT OUTSTANDINGLEADInternational and the environment: We have products and systems designed to help you reduce yourboating environmental footprint. Call us or see the appropriate sections on yachtpaint.com for more information.For comprehensive application and scheme information, always read the product data sheet before you start.Richard Jerram, Technical Helpline“Need to know how to remove old antifouling?”The answer is only a click away at yachtpaint.comColourCard04 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday0506

Quick Reference GuideBoat Paint GuideContentsn VarnishesUse this guide to our varnish products tohelp you choose the perfect product foryour project.NEWGloss retentionoutperforms otherleading varnishproducts*NEWNEWQuickReference GuideKey attributesPerfection Plusn Ultimate performance, clear,two-part polyurethane varnishn Chemical cure for the hardestfinish & highest abrasion resistancen Superior gloss lasts four timeslonger than conventional one-partvarnishesn Professional-quality resultsmade easyn 2:1 mix ratio: Easy to measureand mixThinners No. 9Schooner ® Goldn Advanced UV technology in ourlongest-lasting one-part varnishn Exceptional deep gloss andcolour are retained over thelifetime of the coatingn Sand between every other coatn Traditional amber colourn Use without thinning in warm/higher temperature climatesNo. 1No. 3Compass ®n Fast-dry, high durability,polyurethane high gloss varnishn Excellent resistance toabrasion, oils and chemicalsn Fast-drying, apply 2 coats perday, sand only after 2-3 coatsn Light amber colourn Contains HALS andUV absorbers (find moreinformation at yachtpaint.com)No. 1Goldspar ® Satinn A satin finish polyurethanevarnish for interior usen Resistant to hot water,mild acids and alkalisn Fast-dry formulation minimisesdust contaminationOriginaln Traditional, general purposegloss varnishn Good flow, flexibility andgloss retentionn High clarity finish for lightcolour woodsn Interior, exterior and overexisting varnishNo. 3 No. 1 No. 3 No. 1 No. 3BeforeYou Start‘Step-by-Step’Project GuidesThe CompleteAntifouling GuidePractical coverage (m 2 per litre) 12.0 12.9Number of coatsWill vary depending on usage.Please check product label/data sheet.Suitable for use direct tooily timber (e.g. teak or iroko)Application methodUV protection/Gloss retention2-5 2-612.9 10.3 11.73-6 3 3✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓For interior use onlyThe CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionAdditiveFor a satin finish add:PolyurethaneMatting Additive“Ever wondered how the professionals achieve aglass-like appearance to their varnished surfaces?”When working with varnishes the final finish can be affected by the profile of the wood grain itself.A smoother finish will be achieved by increasing sanding preparation and the number of coats youapply. But, did you know that by using International Clear Wood Sealer Fast Dry under your varnish,this fast-drying, clear primer and surface sealer will fill and seal the wood grain, to provide anexceptionally smooth, crystal clear finish over which you can apply any of our high quality varnishes?MattingAdditiveMattingAdditiveBRUSHROLLERSPRAYGOODFor a non-slip finish, use Non-Slip Additive with your chosen varnish.–* Based on the results of our trials conducted in Florida.Find more information on achieving professional results at yachtpaint.com‘MattingAdditiveOUTSTANDINGTroubleshootingGuideColourCard10 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday 11

Quick Reference GuideBoat Paint GuideContentsn Primers & UndercoatsUse this guide to our primers andundercoats to help you choose theperfect product for your project.QuickReference GuideYacht Primer Primocon ®PrimerInterprotect ® VC ® Tar2 Gelshield ® 200UndercoatGelshield ® Plus Perfection Undercoat Pre-KoteBeforeYou StartKey attributesTypically usedThinnersn Conventional one-part primerfor use above the watern Quick drying, with anticorrosivepropertiesn Pigments contain aluminiumflake to provide an anti-corrosiveprotective barrierAbove water, under one-partundercoatsDo not overcoat with two-partproductsNo. 1n Conventional one-part primerfor use below watern Quick drying, with anticorrosivepropertiesn Can be used under all majorantifoulings* or as a conversioncoat over incompatible orunknown antifoulingsBelow water, under antifoulingsor to seal unknown antifoulingsDo not use with VC ® 17m systemsNo. 3n Quick drying, easy to apply,two-part epoxy primern Offers excellent anticorrosiveprotectionn Can be used as an antifoulingtie-coat over existing epoxy primersWhere a high-performance anti-corrosivesystem is requiredDo not use over one-part productsor antifoulingsNo. 7n Osmosis defence for GRP andanticorrosion barrier for metaln Advanced self-levelling formulationrequires no sanding between coatsn Smooth surface – ideal primer basefor antifoulingsUnder VC ® antifoulings, due toexceptionally smooth surface profileVC ® GeneralThinnern Quick drying, easy to apply,epoxy primer for protectionof GRP against osmosisn Provides protection againstosmosis in five coats (250 µm)n Useable down to 5°Cn Fast drying allows multiple coatapplication in a single dayTo prevent osmotic blistering onfibreglass hulls and bilgesNo. 7n A high build, solventlessepoxy primern Available in two colours toaid self-on-self applicationn Contains no harmful solventsto migrate into the hull andcause reblisteringTo treat osmotic blisteringon fibreglass hullsDo not thin under any circumstancesn High performance two-partpolyurethane undercoatn Provides an excellent basefor a long-lasting gloss finishn Easy application, fast dryingand easy sandingn Semi-gloss appearanceUnder Perfection finishDo not use overone-part productsNo. 9n Undercoat for one-part finishesn Excellent opacity allowsfor easy colour changingn Long-lasting, easy to applyand rub downn Long overcoating times allowcoat-on-coat applicationUnder Internationalone-part finishesDo not use undertwo-part productsNo. 1‘Step-by-Step’Project GuidesThe CompleteAntifouling GuideThe CompleteTopsides GuidePractical coverage (m 2 per litre) 12.0 7.4Number of coats 4 1-58.1 11.3 8.12-5 3-7 5-66.0 12.0 12.04 1-2 1-2Blister Repairand PreventionSubstratesApplication methodSuitable for above waterline✓✗✓✗✗Apply to hull after removing gelcoatRefer to product data sheet* * * * * *✓✓TroubleshootingGuideSuitable for below waterline✗✓✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✗ ✗* Over suitable primerGRP WOOD STEEL ALUMINIUM LEAD ZINCBRUSH ROLLER SPRAYFor comprehensive application and scheme information, always read the product data sheet before you start.ColourCard12 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday1314

Before You StartBoat Paint GuideContentsn Health & SafetyProviding health and safety precautions for paintproducts is a legal requirement and forms a specificsection on our labels. However, the wording is laiddown by law and is often difficult to understand.This section is intended to help you interpret andunderstand the symbols and phrases you will find inour literature and on our product labels. We’ve alsoincluded some further information to make applyingpaint a safer job.Before starting work always read the label. Eachtin will display a number of warning symbols andwritten warning phrases which will quickly indicatethose areas where particular care should be taken.Other general safety precautions are detailed belowand will help should any problem occur whilst usingour paints.Personal healthAvoid ingestionFood and drink should not be prepared or consumedin areas where paint is stored or is being used. Incases of accidental paint ingestion seek immediatemedical attention. Keep the patient at rest, do NOTinduce vomiting.Avoid inhalationThe inhalation of solvent vapour from paint, or dustfrom sanding, can be reduced by the provision ofadequate ventilation or extraction. If this is notsufficient, or if specifically stated on the label,suitable respiratory protection should be used.Wear a cartridge type respirator when abrading oldantifoulings – never burn off or dry-sand antifoulingsas this may create harmful fumes or dust.In badly ventilated areas wear an air-fed hoodor cartridge respirator with an organic vapourfilter. Solvent fumes are heavier than air. Breathingthese fumes can make you dizzy, feel drunk andheadachy and could even result in collapse.Read the label carefully and ensure that therecommended protection is worn.Spray painting creates additional health hazards.Spray mists should not, under any circumstances,be inhaled. Read the label carefully and ensurerecommended protection is worn; generally anair-fed hood is the best protection as it providesa fresh air feed to the user.Avoid eye contactEye protection should be used during paintapplication and when there is any risk of paintsplashing on the face. Safety glasses or goggles areinexpensive, available from many DIY stores, andare well worth wearing. Use eyewear that complieswith EN 166. If material does contaminate the eye,it is recommended that the eye is flushed withclean fresh water for at least 15 minutes, holdingthe eyelids apart, and medical attention sought.Avoid skin contactSkin irritation can occur from contact with paintproducts. You should, therefore, always wearprotective gloves and protective clothing whenapplying or mixing any paint products. Overalls,which cover the body, arms and legs, should beworn. Skin cream, of a non-greasy barrier type, maybe used on the face. Do NOT use petroleum jelly asthis can help the absorption of paint into the body.Remove rings and watch straps before commencingwork, as these can trap paint particles next to theskin. Remove any paint that does get onto the skinby washing with warm water and soap or anapproved skin cleanser. After washing, apply a skinconditioner. Never use solvent or thinners to cleanthe skin.Risk of fire or explosionMost paints contain organic solvents – some of whichevaporate into the air upon opening the container.Any dangers can be reduced if a few simpleprecautions are taken:n Avoid naked flames where paint is being stored,opened or appliedn Do not smoken Store paint in a well-ventilated, dry place awayfrom sources of heat and direct sunlightn Keep the tin tightly closedn Avoid sparks from metals, electrical appliances beingswitched on and off, or faulty electrical connectionsn Do not leave paint soaked rags lying around,in the pockets of overalls or in waste bins.Some types of paint can dry out and auto-ignite.Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)Before undertaking any work always consider the personal protective equipment that you will need; this willchange based on the job in hand and the product being used. Some of the most common items are listedbelow together with guidelines on when they should be used. However, for further information, consult yourInternational Help Desk.For your convenience, your local helpline number is shown on the inside front cover of this booklet and at thefoot of each page spread.BeforeYou Start‘Step-by-Step’Project GuidesThe CompleteAntifouling GuideThe CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionWarning symbolsCorrosiveThis material will attack the eyes and skinand can give you burns.Highly FlammableA spark or cigarette end will start a fire,more easily than with petrol. Paint orthinners in tins, or vapours in the air,can catch fire or explode.Harmful/IrritantThis material may harm you from skincontact, from breathing in or ingesting.The wording will indicate which.Harmful to the EnvironmentThis material is toxic to aquatic organismsand may cause long-term adverse effectsin the aquatic environment.Face MasksThe type of mask that should be worn depends on the hazard of thepaint, length of time of the job, amount of paint used and where thejob is being carried out. Spray application will require the use of fullface masks and respiratory protection and as such it is recommendedthat it is only carried out by professionals with specialist equipment.Hard HatA hard hat should be worn toprotect the head if painting inareas where there is a risk fromfalling objects or debris.TroubleshootingGuideColourCard15 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday16

Before You StartBoat Paint GuideContentsn Equipment guidelinesThe type of equipment you choose can make a difference to the success of your project. Guidelines for thebest equipment to use are always detailed on the paint can and if a particular type of brush or roller is required,it will be specified. Further details are available at yachtpaint.com, however, this section should provide you withthe basics.BeforeYou StartSafety Glasses and GogglesEye protection should always be worn when using paint. The type ofprotection required depends on the job to be carried out. Safety glasseswill avoid minor splashes, whereas goggles offer more protection.Safety BootsSteel toecap, anti-static bootsare advisable when paintingyour boat. These should provideankle protection, as a minimum.BrushIt is always important to choosea good quality brush, which isas large as you can comfortablyuse. A good brush is a goodinvestment and should becleaned properly after use.RollerGenerally, a medium pile rolleris recommended for antifoulingapplication, and a small cellfoam roller for gloss finishes.SprayAlthough our products aredesigned for easy applicationby brush or roller, many can alsobe spray applied but will requirespecialist equipment. Consultproduct data sheets for sprayequipment recommendations.‘Step-by-Step’Project GuidesThe CompleteTopsides GuideThe CompleteAntifouling GuideGlovesWhen painting, chemicalresistant gloves, that are ingood condition, should be worn.The gloves should be replacedfrequently and always as soonas the inside looks dirty.OverallsA cotton overall (minimum 60%cotton) with full length sleevesand legs should be used in allsituations where exposure tothe paint is potentially high.Alternatively, if the risk topaint exposure is low, suitabledisposable overalls can be worn.Barrier CreamBarrier cream should be usedon exposed skin that cannot becovered by protective equipment.However, it must not be usedinstead of or in lieu of it.Do not use petroleum jellybased products as this willaid penetration of the productinto the skin.Stirring StickA suitable stirrer will be neededto stir the paint prior to use; anold screwdriver is not suitablefor this job. A pallet knife orstirring stick is best. Removesurface dust with a dust wipe.Mixing CupMixing cups with graduatedmixing ratio indicators aredesigned to ensure the correctand precise measuring andmixing proportions of paints,activators and thinners.MaskingPrior to painting, the target areashould be masked off using ahigh quality clean-edged tape.There are two types available;paper masking tape which issuitable for antifouling, and highperformance tapes whichare suitable for topsides finishesand will prevent creep.Blister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideColourCard17Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday18

Before You Start‘Step-by-Step’ Project GuidesContentsTop tips from the experts...Commencing with some basic advice on substrates and preparation, thissection provides a series of useful step-by-step guides to common boatpainting projects, along with all those useful bits of extra information andadvice that can really contribute to making your project an outstandingsuccess. Written by experts in a series of easy-to-follow steps, complementedwith simple illustrations, these guides provide the ultimate quick referencetool to the discerning DIY boat owner.ScraperUse a scraper to remove oldpaint. Ensure you keep the toolsharp; it's a good idea to roundoff the corners to minimise therisk of gouging. A ‘dragging’ typeis usually more controllable thana ‘pushing’ type.Choosing the right sandpaperGrinderAngle grinders are used forgrinding, polishing and cutting.With a wide variety to choosefrom, the most important factorsto consider are the disc size andhow powerful the motor is. Thetype of disc required will dependon the job being carried out.SandpaperWhen sanding, the amount ofpaper you will use will varyenormously. A very approximateguide would be one sheet persquare metre of bare substrate,such as wood or glass fibre.It is always better to use asanding block to achieve asmoother surface. For previouslypainted surfaces, half a sheetper square metre is a roughguide and rubbing downbetween coats will use a similaramount. Antifouling must onlybe wet sanded.The possible uses of the various grades of sandpaper can be summarised as follows:60-120 To remove old paint or promote mechanical adhesion. This grade will leave the surface scratchedtherefore a finer grade of paper should subsequently be used.180-200 On new wood, these grades are too coarse for rubbing down wood which is to be varnished.220 For rubbing down finishes prior to the application of an undercoat or primer.280-320 To sand bare wood and fibreglass or undercoats prior to the application of a finish.320 To rub down varnishes or a mixture of finish/undercoat.400 For sanding freshly applied finishes.400 and above For taking out any blemishes in a paint film.n Getting to know your substratesWorking with fibreglassFibreglass, or GRP as it is often known, is madefrom polyester resin reinforced with chopped orwoven glass fibres. Once the resin sets to a hardmatrix the resulting laminate is strong and rigid.The smooth external appearance is due to aprotective gelcoat, made from polyester resin.Despite its obvious advantages, experience hasshown that glass fibre is susceptible to the effectsof sunlight and the marine environment.There are two problems to be aware of:Fibreglass is prone to osmosis!For detailed information see Pages 66-69.Gelcoats fade!Eventually the gelcoat will begin to fade as a resultof exposure to UV (Ultra Violet) light in sunlight.Fred ColeUK Sales ManagerPolishing with wax may delay this, but eventuallya coat of paint will be needed to restore colour andprotect the surface.See The Complete Topsides Guide on Page 58.Working with aluminiumAluminium is an excellent material for boats.However, aluminium alloys are prone to corrosionif untreated or damaged. When new alloys areexposed, an oxide layer forms on their surface.The oxide layer does not protect the alloy in the longterm when exposed to damp marine environments.Attention to the preparation of a new hull and themaintenance of an existing hull can save youconsiderable difficulties and costly repairs inthe future.Aluminium inspectionPeriodically the paint system will need to beremoved in areas of stress and any corrosiontreated. Careful inspection on an annual basisof all weld seams will allow for early identificationof the occurrence of this problem.Aluminium compatibilityAluminium reacts with some copper-basedantifouling paints causing serious corrosion.Therefore antifoulings containing metallic copper orcuprous oxide should never be used on aluminium.Only use copper thiocyanate based antifouling onaluminium, firstly ensuring it is primed properly.‘Step-by-Step’Project GuidesThe CompleteAntifouling GuideThe CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionColourCardTroubleshootingGuide19Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday20

‘Step-by-Step’ Project GuidesBoat Paint GuideContentsWorking with woodsWood is the only natural boat building materialused today, and although it generally requiresmore maintenance than the more common glassfibre vessels, a well cared for boat, built of wood,will always attract admiring glances when shesails into view.The fibrous nature of timber means that it has atendency to absorb moisture from the atmosphere,and swell and contract to varying degreesdepending on the type of construction. For a varnishor paint coating to stay intact it will need to be quiteflexible in nature. The moisture content in wood canallow the growth of fungal spores, which leadsto rotting and decay. Wood can also be subject toattack by marine borers, which eat the wood fibres.Wood therefore needs to be protected by goodquality preservatives and coatings. Many differentwoods can be used, which can differ immensely.HardwoodsHardwood comes from slow growing deciduoustrees. They have a tighter grain than soft woods.This tight grain has good strength characteristicsacross the timber as well as along its length,making it particularly suitable for decorativeapplication, as well as boat building.Mahogany: Mahogany will last for many yearsin a marine environment with little protection as theseawater has an antiseptic quality. The same is nottrue with regard to fresh water, which will lead torot and decay if allowed to permeate the woodfibres. Mahogany should, therefore, be protectedfrom freshwater at all times and wherever possiblewashed down with seawater.Teak and Iroko: Teak and iroko are particularlyoily timbers with a natural resistance to rot anddecay. Additionally they contain silica, which givesthem hard-wearing characteristics.Oak: Ferrous metals, such as steel and iron, reactbadly with oak, due to the tannin in the fibres. Thiswill cause dark staining and even chemical attackon the metal by the tannic acid, which is formed.SoftwoodsThe grain in these woods is long, straight andgenerally wider spaced than hardwoods as thesetrees grow faster. This means that their strength ismostly along their length so they are used in suchapplications as masts and spars, tillers, rubbingstrakes, oars and planked hulls.Working with steelSteel is a heat-treated alloy based on iron with alower carbon content and small quantities of otherelements. The high strength of steel in relation tothe plate thickness and the ability to cut and bendit into many different shapes makes it suitablematerial for building hulls and superstructures.Fastenings such as bolts and rivets are often adifferent alloy for added strength, while fittingscontain added chromium, to make the steel‘stainless’ and resistant to rust. Having statedthat steel is a good material for building boats,it is important to be aware of some of thecharacteristics of the material in order toensure good results.Steel corrodes!The most common form of corrosion in steel is rust.For the reaction to take place, water must also bepresent. The marine environment is therefore anideal place for rust to occur.Steel stretches!Due to the high flexibility and strength of steelit is hard to break, but impact damage may wellresult in a dent owing to the metal stretching anddeforming locally. This can present problems for aprotective coating, which may not be so flexible.How to prepare bare substratesAll surfaces should be thoroughly degreased andfree from any sanding debris prior to the applicationof any paint to the surface.AluminiumDegrease with solvent or Super Cleaner. Sand wellusing 60-120 grade (aluminium compatible) paper.Clean thoroughly and allow to dry. Prime using anInternational primer as soon as possible (within8 hours) following the product recommendationsprovided in the paint systems guides.LeadDegrease with solvent or Super Cleaner. Sandwell using 120 grade paper or power wire brush.Clean thoroughly and allow to dry. Prime usingan International or VC primer following the productrecommendations provided in the paint systemsguides.Zinc/Galvanised SteelDegrease with solvent or Super Cleaner. Sand wellusing 60-120 grade paper. Clean thoroughly andallow to dry completely. Prime using an Internationalor VC primer following the product recommendationsprovided in the paint systems guides.SteelDegrease with solvent or Super Cleaner. Grit blastto Sa 2.5 – near white metal surface. If grit blastingis not possible, grind the metal surface with24-36 grade abrasive discs to a uniform, clean,bright metal surface with a 50-75 micron anchorpattern. Use angle grinder on small areas. Cleanthoroughly and allow to dry completely. Primeusing an International or VC primer following theproduct recommendations provided in the paintsystems guides.Stainless SteelLight grit blast to produce a profile of 50 microns,clean thoroughly and allow to dry completely priorto application of an International primer followingthe product recommendations provided in the paintsystems guides.BronzeClean thoroughly and abrade to bright metal using80 grade paper. Take care when abrading bronzepropellers, as excessive abrading can alter theprofile of the propeller causing it to be out of balance.Clean thoroughly and allow to dry completely beforeapplying products recommended for applicationdirect to bronze (see paint systems guides).Cast IronDegrease with solvent or Super Cleaner. Grit blast toSa 2.5. If grit blasting is not possible, grind the metalsurface with 24-36 grade abrasive discs to a uniformclean surface with a 50-75 micron anchor pattern.Use an angle grinder on small areas or a wire brush,prepare to a minimum St.3 according to ISO8501-1.Clean thoroughly with solvent and allow to drycompletely. Ensure that all evidence of corrosion (e.g.iron oxide and iron sulphide) is removed prior to theapplication of an International or VC primer, followingthe product recommendations provided in the paintsystems guides.FibreglassDegrease with solvent or Super Cleaner. Sand wellusing 180-220 grade paper. Clean thoroughly andallow to dry completely. Prime using an Internationalor VC primer following the product recommendationsprovided in the paint systems guides.Bare Wood/PlywoodSand smooth with 80-180 grade paper and then280 grade paper. Remove sanding dust by brushingor dusting. Wipe down thoroughly with solvent andallow to dry completely, to ensure any residualsanding dust is removed, before applying productsrecommended for application direct to wood(see paint systems guides).Oily woods e.g. teakEnsure that the surface is thoroughly degreasedusing a recommended solvent to ensure all oils areremoved. Sand smooth with 80-180 grade paperand then 280 grade paper. Remove sanding dustby wiping with solvent, to ensure any residualdust is removed. Ensure the surface is completelydry before applying products recommended forapplication direct to wood (see paint systems guides).‘Step-by-Step’Project GuidesThe CompleteAntifouling GuideThe CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideColourCard21Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday22

‘Step-by-Step’ Project GuidesBoat Paint GuideContentsn Always check the weather!When painting outside, always check what weather conditions are anticipated duringthe preparation, application and drying phases of any project. Should fair weatherprevail, whether or not to commence painting will then depend on the air and surfacetemperatures, humidity and dew point.You may find the following hints and tips helpful when planning your project – further,product-specific guidelines can be found on individual product labels and data sheets.General Guidance Notes:n Dew point is important when applying paint toa surface, as the evaporation of the solvent fromthe paint draws heat and/or energy from thatsurface, cooling it down. If conditions are rightcondensation may form on the surface of thepaint resulting in various problems.n Relative humidity is important as air can onlyhold so much water or solvent vapour at any onetime. So, as the relative humidity increases, thelevel of solvent vapour the air can hold reduces,meaning paint will effectively dry more slowly.Richard JerramTechnical Helplinen Air and substrate temperature will affect thedrying properties of any paint. Failing to observethe recommended drying times can result incoating failure, including improper drying,wrinkling and loss of adhesion.n Always avoid extreme air or temperatureconditions; International products are testedacross a range of temperatures, to ascertainthe drying times and application characteristicsof each product. Drying time recommendationsare provided on our products labels; furtherinformation relating to weather considerationscan be found on our product data sheets,available on our web site.“What is ‘Relative Humidity’?”Relative Humidity, or ‘RH’, measures the amount of water in the air in vapour form, comparing it to themaximum amount of water that can be held at a given temperature. For example, if the RH is quoted asbeing 50% at 23°C, this would imply that the air contains 50% of the maximum level of water vapour itcould hold at 23°C. 100% RH indicates that the air is at maximum saturation.When humid air comes into contact with cooler air, or a cooler surface, the water vapour will turn intowater droplets. When this occurs on a surface it is referred to as the ‘Dew Point’.Never apply paint above a maximum relative humidity of around 85% as at that level you will reach thedew point regardless of surrounding temperatures.Relative Humidity can be measured using a hygrometer; a hygro thermometer will measure bothtemperature and humidity.“What is ‘Dew Point’?”We have all experienced ‘Dew Point’ at some stage. Condensation on windows is an obvious example.Dew Point is the temperature at which the air can no longer hold its water vapour and starts to form waterdroplets i.e. condensation. Condensation forms when air temperature lowers, reducing the amount of energyavailable to keep the water in vapour format. For example, a window forms condensation when the coolnight air hits the outside surface of the glass, lowering the surface temperature and the humidity in thehouse is high enough to cause condensation on the inside of the glass surface.When painting, it is essential that you are able to paint a surface and avoid condensation forming during theapplication and drying stages. The optimum surface temperature for paint application is normally around6°C above the Dew Point; however some products may be more or less tolerant. When working withInternational products, if in doubt, it’s always worth checking the relevant technical data sheet – availableon our website – for further advice.Dew Point can be calculated using the relative humidity and the air temperature; however, Dew Point ‘lookup’tables are widely available via the internet.n Low temperatures will increase drying times;always check the ‘through-dry’ of each interimcoat, before sanding or overcoating.n Sanding too early can cause the paint towrinkle under the sand paper, in some caseseven tearing or gouging into the paint filmmaking refurbishment difficult. Sanding beforethe paint film is ‘through-dry’ can also block thesand paper, meaning more sheets are needed tocomplete the task.n Overcoating too early can cause wrinkling,blistering and loss of gloss in the finishedpaint job.n High temperatures will reduce drying times,but can make application more difficult, asproduct flow and levelling can be compromised –particularly when applying finishes or varnishes.Where appropriate, thinning recommendationsto help with higher temperature application areprovided on labels and data sheet.When applying two-part products in highertemperatures the pot life of the product will alsobe affected, reducing your work time window.n Do not paint in direct sunlight, or when thesubstrate itself is excessively warm, as theresidual heat of the substrate can adverselyaffect the application and drying properties ofany paint product; this can result in poor flowand levelling, rapid drying, cracking and loss ofgloss. Surface temperature can be measuredusing a surface thermometer.Remember that surfaces heat up and cool down ata different rate to the surrounding air temperature,meaning even though the ambient temperaturemight seem warm, the temperature of the surfacebeing worked on may still be quite cold. Very oftenone side of a boat will be in the shade and theother in bright sunlight meaning the applicationconditions will differ. Additionally, in the morningthe surface temperature of the sunny side willgenerally be lower than the ambient temperature,whereas in the afternoon it may be higher.Key points to note when applyingfinishes and varnishes:n Dry, well ventilated conditions are preferablewhen applying finishes or varnishes. Whilst gentleair movement will assist the drying process,a dust-free environment is critical to achievinga good quality gloss finish; always avoid paintingin windy conditions.Choosing a faster drying product or scheme,where available, will help to minimise the windowfor dust contamination.n The effects of dust contamination may be furtherreduced by sanding lightly between each coat,removing residual dust by wiping down with asuitable solvent and allowing to dry beforeapplying the next coat. This will also help improvethe initial aesthetics.n Avoid applying two-part finishes or varnisheslate in the afternoon or when relative humidityexceeds 80% as these products are particularlysensitive to moisture. Condensation duringapplication or due to overnight ambienttemperature changes can affect the chemicalcure of these products resulting in loss of gloss.n When painting or varnishing timber avoid applyingif the ambient temperature is increasing (orpredicted to increase) significantly. This is becauserising temperatures cause timber to expand, whichcan lead to blisters forming in the paint or varnishfilm. A good tip is to apply when the temperatureis falling, as the timber will better absorb the paintor varnish, giving better overall results.Key points to note when applyingepoxies (e.g. Watertite, Interprotect ® ,Gelshield ® Plus)n Whilst curing in high humidity conditions,particularly at lower temperatures, epoxiescan develop an ‘amine bloom’ on the surface.This slightly sticky substance must be removedand can normally be washed off with a milddetergent. If it is not removed it can lead to thede-lamination of subsequent coats. Failure toremove the bloom will also make sanding moredifficult.Bloomingn High humidity conditions can reduce the amountof solvent evaporation during the drying/curingstages; with epoxies this can lead to a ‘softcure’. As epoxy-based materials are generallyapplied at a higher film thickness, solvent canremain trapped in the film for many days leadingto slow or poor final cure.n Although epoxies generally cure well in mostconditions, when the temperature falls to 7°C orbelow, curing can slow or even stop. Rememberto check both day and overnight temperatureswhether working outdoors or in a shed.n Epoxy products usually respond well to a littleheat; on cold days introducing a safe form ofheating into the application area is well worthconsidering.‘Step-by-Step’Project GuidesThe CompleteAntifouling GuideThe CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideBlisteringColourCard23Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday2425

‘Step-by-Step’ Project GuidesBoat Paint GuideContentsn Making small repairs to GRP surfacesWhen working with fillers it’s important to remember that epoxy fillers arerecommended for both above and below the water areas; polyester fillers are suitablefor use above the water only. International Watertite is a two-part epoxy filler, suited tomost DIY repairs above and below water.Stuart JordanSpecialist in Epoxies/Fillers Development4Applying the fillerMask off the damaged area and apply Watertiteusing a palette knife or spatula. Allow to cure,following the recommendations provided onthe product label.1Health and SafetyBefore commencing preparatory work, ensurethe area you are working in is adequatelyventilated. Ensure you are wearing the correctPPE; we recommend safety spectacles, gogglesor visors, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls (ensuringskin is not exposed) and a face mask.Once cured, sand with 80-220 grade paper.The finished repair should be smooth and levelwith the surface. If required a second layer offiller may be applied, repeating the sameprocess. The repaired area can then beprimed, ready for painting.‘Step-by-Step’Project Guides23Before starting your project, always check the weather conditions! See Pages 23-25.InspectionInspect for damage. Small repairs can be tackled easily, but any damageaffecting a large area, or affecting the structure or hull integrity, should bereferred to a professional for proper assessment.Preparation and PrimingRemove any loose filler or gelcoat and abradeedges to remove loose material. Remove alldebris and prime with an International orVC primer, according to the schemerecommendations provided elsewherein this guide. For an osmosis protectionscheme use Gelshield 200 or VC Tar 2.See Pages 66-69 for information on osmosis treatment and prevention.See Page 19 for sandpaper guidelines.Richard Jerram, Technical Helpline“Working with epoxy fillers?”n Two-part epoxy fillers are the most widely used fillers in the yachting industry. They are invariably solventfree. A benefit of being solvent free is that they do not attack the underlying primer.n Epoxies must be mixed in the proper ratio. Too much curing agent and they will leave a sticky film on thesurface that is not suitable for overcoating. Too little curing agent will weaken the filler and cause it tocrumble later on.n Below the waterline, epoxy fillers must be used. Polyester fillers should not be used as they have agreater propensity to absorb water.Click or call and ask the experts!The CompleteAntifouling GuideThe CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideColourCard26Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday27

‘Step-by-Step’ Project GuidesBoat Paint GuideContentsn Removing aged finishes or varnishesWhen preparing a surface previously painted with a finish or varnish scheme it may benecessary to remove the aged product, back to bare substrate. This will be required ifthe existing coating is in poor condition or if you’re intending to apply a two-part productonto a surface previously painted with a one-part finish or varnish.Louise BebbingtonSenior Product Manager, Finishes and Varnishes4Abrade using 60-120 grade paper, removing as much of the paint or varnishas possible.See Page 19 for sandpaper guidelines.12Health and SafetyBefore commencing work ensure the areayou are working in is adequately ventilated.Ensure you are wearing the correct PPE; werecommend safety spectacles, goggles orvisors, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls (ensuringskin is not exposed) and a dust mask.Before starting your project, always check the weather conditions! See Pages 23-25.Remove any sections of the aged finish or varnish that are already loose,flaking or detached using a scraper – rounding the ends of the scraperbefore commencing will avoid gouging the surface, resulting in unnecessaryrepairs.5Prepare according to substrate, following bare substrate preparationguidelines.See Page 22 for bare substrate preparation guidelines.Richard Jerram, Technical Helpline“Hints to help you achieve a perfect finish.”‘Step-by-Step’Project GuidesThe CompleteAntifouling GuideThe CompleteTopsides Guide3Clean the surface with Super Cleaner and rinsewith fresh water to remove any polish, wax orcontaminants.n We do not recommend using a chemical paint stripper when working with fibreglass as this may causedamage to the substrate.n When working with wood, always work in the direction of the grain, whether sanding or applying varnish.This will avoid scratches that can still show through, even after many coats of paint or varnish.Click or call and ask the experts!ColourCardBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuide28Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday29

‘Step-by-Step’ Project GuidesBoat Paint GuideContentsn Removing antifoulingIf your existing antifouling is in poor condition, we recommend removing it completelybefore repainting. Interstrip AF has been formulated for removing antifouling from allsubstrates and is safe to use on glass fibre without harming the gelcoat.Leave on the surface. The product needs time to work; the time needed willvary depending on the temperature and the amount of old antifouling on thehull.Kate MossSpecialist in Antifoulings DevelopmentFor best results, work on a small area at a time – do not allow the product to dry out.See product label for more information.1Health and SafetyBefore commencing preparatory work, ensurethe area you are working in is adequatelyventilated. Ensure you are wearing the correctPPE; we recommend safety spectacles, gogglesor visors, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls(ensuring skin is not exposed) and a solventmask or a respirator (if working on larger areasor in confined spaces).Before starting your project, always check the weather conditions! See Pages 23-25.4Removing old antifoulingRemove while still soft with a blunt scraper. Interstrip AF can remove severalcoats at a time, but heavy build up may require more than one application.Residue should be disposed of according to local legislation. Reapply freshantifouling after sanding and priming the hull.See Page 43 for antifouling application advice.‘Step-by-Step’Project GuidesThe CompleteAntifouling Guide2PreparationHigh pressure fresh water wash, to removeloose antifouling; ensuring all residue andwash water is contained and disposed of,according to local legislation. Mask off areasto be stripped.Richard Jerram, Technical HelplineThe CompleteTopsides Guide3Applying InterstripApply Interstrip AF liberally, using an old brush,following the application guidelines provided onthe product label.“Is your existing antifouling in good condition?”If your existing antifouling is in good condition, it may not need removing and can simply be overcoated,following a high pressure fresh water wash. Always ensure you check for compatibility before applying newantifouling; incompatible or unknown antifouling should be sealed with Primocon. See Page 52 for moreinformation on antifouling compatibility.Click or call and ask the experts!ColourCardBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuide30Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday31

‘Step-by-Step’ Project GuidesBoat Paint GuideContentsn Applying finishesBefore starting any painting project consider the 3 most critical questions:1) What preparation is necessary 2) Does the substrate matter and3) What repair and upkeep is needed. Page 58 of this guide will providethis information and help you choose the best product for your project.Neil NicolsonSpecialist in Finishes DevelopmentPreparation – in poor conditionIf previous finish is cracking, peeling or showing signs of separation from the substrate this should betotally removed.See Page 29 for advice on removing existing finishes.7 ApplicationSand the undercoat smooth with 320-400grade paper and remove dust with a wipeor tack rag.1Health and SafetyBefore commencing preparatory work, ensurethe area you are working in is adequatelyventilated. Ensure you are wearing the correctPPE; we recommend safety spectacles, gogglesor visors, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls (ensuringskin is not exposed) and a solvent mask.4 MaskingBefore priming/undercoating, mask off the area to be painted.Apply the finish, according to labelrecommendations.See Page 59 of this guide for information onfinish application techniques.‘Step-by-Step’Project Guides3Before starting your project, always check the weather conditions! See Pages 23-25.For health and safety reasons, two-part polyurethane products should only be spray applied by a professional applicator.Previously painted surfaces:2 InspectionCheck for areas of damage, separation or peeling, or any other indicationsthat the existing coating is not firmly adhered to the substrate.Using a two-part finish? Ensure your existing coating is compatible.See Page 59 for compatibility testing guidance.Preparation – in good conditionClean with Super Cleaner to ensure anyresidual polish, wax or surface contaminantsare removed. Rinse with fresh water and allowto dry. Sand smooth with 280-320 grade paper.Clean thoroughly and allow to dry completely.Continue at Step 6.Bare substrate:5 PrimingBare substrates should be primed to promotegood adhesion and provide a smooth evensurface, prior to undercoating. Your choiceof primer will be dictated by the substrate;product recommendations are provided onlabels and data sheets. Remember to payparticular attention to drying times andovercoating intervals.6Due to the porous nature of aged gelcoats, the risk of moisture or solvent entrapment – leading to blisters –is increased; applying Interprotect followed by Perfection Undercoat can reduce this risk and seal the gelcoat,prior to applying the finish.UndercoatingPrimed or previously painted surfaces should be undercoated.An undercoat will provide additional depth of colour and improvethe durability and film build of the overall paint system. Internationaloffers two undercoats for use with its finishes range.See Pages 60-61 for undercoat recommendations.Richard Jerram, Technical Helpline“Achieve a perfect result every time!”n Ensure an even spread by holding the brush at 45° – this minimises brush marks.n The best finish is achieved on large areas by two people, one to apply the paint, the other followingimmediately behind to ‘tip off’ the finish.n Clean or change brushes every 20 minutes or so. Always use lint-free cleaning cloths.n Stir the can occasionally during the work.n Dampen the ground with water before commencing painting to avoid any dust rising.n Use a worn brush for the final coat, this will ensure less brush marks.n Painting is best achieved on warm, dry mornings – cold weather retards drying and damp will spoil thegloss.n Never apply direct from the can as this will introduce contamination.n Always pour the amount of paint that you expect to use into a separate container.Click or call and ask the experts!The CompleteAntifouling GuideThe CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideMixing the second coat of undercoat 50:50 with the topcoat will produce a satin effect, which will highlight anyimperfections (to be sanded smooth) as well as improving the gloss and depth of colour of the finish.ColourCard32Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday3334

‘Step-by-Step’ Project GuidesBoat Paint GuideContentsn Painting your bilgeA freshly painted bilge is much easier to wipe down and keep clean, reducing the riskof odours that may result from unwanted residue. A clean bilge will also make it easierto find small parts or fastenings, which may have been dropped whilst working on yourengine or other equipment.Boris WebberTechnical HelplinePreparation – in poor conditionIf previous finish is cracking, peeling or showing signs of separation from the substrate this should betotally removed.See Page 28 for advice on removing existing finishes.Bare substrate:1Health and SafetyBefore commencing preparatory work, ensurethe area you are working in is adequatelyventilated. Ensure you are wearing the correctPPE; we recommend safety spectacles, gogglesor visors, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls (ensuringskin is not exposed) and a solvent mask or arespirator (if working in confined spaces).Before starting your project, always check the weather conditions! See Pages 23-25.4PrimingBare substrates should be primed to promotegood adhesion and provide a smooth evensurface, prior to applying Danboline. Yourchoice of primer will be dictated by thesubstrate; product recommendations areprovided on labels and data sheets. Rememberto pay particular attention to drying times andovercoating intervals.Pay particular attention if the substrate is the reverse side of moulded GRP – this does not need to be primed.‘Step-by-Step’Project GuidesThe CompleteAntifouling GuidePreviously painted surfaces:2 InspectionCheck for areas of damage, separation or peeling, or any other indicationsthat the existing coating is not firmly adhered to the substrate.5ApplicationSand the primer smooth with 180-280 gradepaper and remove dust with a wipe or tack rag.The CompleteTopsides Guide3Preparation – in good conditionClean with Super Cleaner and rinse with freshwater. Allow to dry. Sand smooth with 280-320grade paper. Clean thoroughly and allow to drycompletely. Continue at Step 5.Apply 1-2 coats of Danboline.For added protection against moisture absorption and osmosis in bilge areas,use International Gelshield products – prior to applying Danboline – always followthe label instructions.Blister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideColourCard35Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday36

‘Step-by-Step’ Project GuidesBoat Paint GuideContentsn Preparing a non-slip deckA deck demands a tough coating to protect it from everyday wear and tear.Where a non-slip surface is required International offers 3 alternative solutions.4 MaskingBefore priming or applying a deck finish, mask off the area to be painted.Using Non-Slip Additive with International ® Toplac ® or Perfection(hand-mixed method):Heather MortonSpecialist in Retail Finishes Development7ApplicationChoose your paint system – see Pages 60-61of this guide. Apply primer (if required) andundercoat following label recommendations.Add the contents of the Non-Slip Additivesachet to International Perfection or Toplac.1Health and SafetyBefore commencing preparatory work, ensurethe area you are working in is adequatelyventilated. Ensure you are wearing the correctPPE; we recommend safety spectacles, gogglesor visors, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls (ensuringskin is not exposed) and a solvent mask.Before starting your project, always check the weather conditions! See Pages 23-25.Previously painted surfaces:Bare substrate:5 PrimingYour choice of primer will be determined bythe substrate and the choice of deck finishproduct. Priming recommendations areprovided on labels and data sheets. Rememberto pay particular attention to drying times andovercoating intervals.Due to the porous nature of aged gelcoats, the risk of moisture or solvent entrapment – leading to blisters –is increased; applying Interprotect followed by Perfection Undercoat can reduce this risk and seal the gelcoat,prior to applying the finish.Using a two-part finish? Ensure your existing coating is compatible. See Page 59 for compatibility testing guidance.Mix thoroughly. Apply 1-2 coats to deck area,using a brush or roller. For best results eitherstipple by brush or use a mohair roller.‘Step-by-Step’Project GuidesThe CompleteAntifouling Guide2 InspectionCheck for areas of damage, separation or peeling, or any other indicationsthat the existing coating is not firmly adhered to the substrate.3Preparation – in good conditionClean with Super Cleaner, rinse with freshwater and allow to dry. Sand smooth with280-320 grade paper. Clean thoroughly andallow to dry completely. Continue at Step 6.Preparation – in poor conditionIf previous finish is cracking, peeling or showing signs of separation from the substrate this should betotally removed.Using Interdeck(ready-mixed formula):6ApplicationSand the primer (if used) with 180-220 gradewet or dry paper. Remove dust with a dustwipe or tack rag, according to labelrecommendations.Mix Interdeck thoroughly; apply 1-2 coats.For best results either stipple by brush oruse a mohair roller.Using Non-Slip Additive with International ® Toplac ® or Perfection(broadcast method):8ApplicationChoose your paint system – see Pages 60-61of this guide. Apply primer (if required) andundercoat following label recommendations.Apply one coat of topcoat. While the paint isstill wet, sprinkle Non-Slip Additive over thesurface. Allow to dry thoroughly following therecommendations provided on the finish label.Remove excess grit. Apply second coat offinish.The CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideSee Page 28 for advice on removing existing finishes.ColourCard37 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday3839

‘Step-by-Step’ Project GuidesBoat Paint GuideContentsn Applying varnishesTo achieve a professional result from any varnish project, thorough preparation iscritical. If applying on to a previously varnished surface, the condition of the existingcoating and its compatibility with the new varnish product should thoroughly checkedbefore commencing any preparatory or application work.Sam BruceSpecialist in Varnishes DevelopmentPreparation – in poor conditionIf previous varnish is cracking, peeling or showing signs of separation from the substrate this shouldbe totally removed.See Page 28 for advice on removing existing varnishes.Continue at Step 5.6ApplicationApplying varnish with a brush is usually thebest method, although roller application canbe effective on large, flat surfaces.Brush out, using firm strokes along and thenacross the grain, holding the brush at 90º tothe surface.Finally, ‘tip off’ by gently stroking surface withthe brush at a 45º angle, following the grain.The brush you use should be used only forvarnishing.1Health and SafetyBefore commencing preparatory work, ensurethe area you are working in is adequatelyventilated. Ensure you are wearing the correctPPE; we recommend safety spectacles, gogglesor visors, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls (ensuringskin is not exposed) and a solvent mask.Bare wood:4PreparationBare wood should be prepared following the appropriate bare substrate preparation guidelines.See Page 22 for substrate preparation guidelines.Continue at Step 5.Richard Jerram, Technical Helpline‘Step-by-Step’Project Guides3Before starting your project, always check the weather conditions! See Pages 23-25.Previously varnished surfaces:2 InspectionCheck for areas of damage, separation or peeling, or any other indicationsthat the existing coating is not firmly adhered to the substrate.Preparation – in good conditionClean with thinners. Sand smooth with280-320 grade paper. Remove sanding dustby brushing or dusting. Wipe down thoroughlywith solvent and allow to dry completely, toensure any residual sanding dust is removed.(Note: Small imperfections may be spot primedand sanded down prior to full varnishapplication.) Continue at Step 6.Using a two-part varnish? Ensure your existing coating is compatible.See Page 59 for compatibility testing guidance.5It is important to ensure all sanding residue is removed prior to varnishing, as this will impair adhesion and give a‘bitty’ finish. Before commencing any varnish work, decant the amount of varnish you expect to use into a separatecontainer, to avoid introducing contamination into the tin.PrimingTo promote penetration of the surface and theadhesion of subsequent coats; we recommendthinning the first coat of varnish. Decant theamount of varnish you expect to use into aseparate container. Thin for priming accordingto label recommendations.Apply 1-2 thinned coats of varnish followinglabel recommendations.Alternatively, prime using Clear Wood SealerFast Dry; a clear polyurethane primer withexcellent grain filling properties that willimprove overall scheme durability andaesthetics.“Achieve a perfect result every time!”Always follow the scheme recommendations as specified on the label; this will indicate the minimumnumber of coats required and the sanding recommendations between coats. This information will varydepending on the product. To achieve long-lasting protection, you should plan to apply up to ten coats(depending on the system). As the number of coats increases, sanding between coats with a fine gradepaper will increase the level of gloss and depth of lustre.Hints and tipsn Keep the sandpaper clean and change it frequently.n Sand by numbers, finishing the surface with aprogressively finer grade of paper.n Varnishing is best achieved on warm, dry mornings –cold weather slows drying and damp spoils the gloss.n Always use a clean brush, previously used only forvarnish.n Always buy the highest quality varnish and brushavailable. This will ensure you achieve the mostattractive finish.n Clean new brushes before use.n Test the finish on a spare piece of wood beforeapplying to the boat.n On large areas use a foam roller to apply the initial coat,followed immediately behind with a wide brush for thefinishing strokes – this is best done by two people.Click or call and ask the experts!n After cleaning with the correct thinners, wash thebrush in detergent and warm water, dry and wrapin greaseproof paper in a fine chisel shape.n Alternatively, having cleaned and washed the brush,suspend by its handle to avoid any ‘fishtailing’ of thebristle.n As the varnish ages in the tin you may find thereare lumps or contamination. Sieving the varnish intoa separate container through cheesecloth, a paintfilter or an old stocking is a good solution to thisproblem.n Don’t use varnish which has been open for a longperiod as it will have picked up dust.n Do not varnish wood when exposed to direct sunlight.n Never leave bare wood exposed too long as it willabsorb moisture from the atmosphere.The CompleteAntifouling GuideThe CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideColourCard40Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday4142

‘Step-by-Step’ Project GuidesBoat Paint GuideContentsn Applying antifoulingAntifouling can be applied using a brush or roller. Using a small roller is less work onthe arm but takes longer to cover the surface area. If a brush is preferred, choose alarge width brush; the finish will not be as smooth as a topside paint so the type ofbrush used is not critical.Colin AndersonSpecialist in Antifoulings DevelopmentPreparation – in poor conditionIf existing antifouling is cracking, peeling or showing signs of detachment from the substrate this shouldbe totally removed.See Page 30 for advice on removing existing antifoulings.6ApplicationMix paint thoroughly with a stirring stick,ensuring that any settlement is mixed in.Apply according to label recommendations,using a brush or roller.1Health and SafetyBefore commencing preparatory work, ensurethe area you are working in is adequatelyventilated. Ensure you are wearing the correctPPE; we recommend safety spectacles, gogglesor visors, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls (ensuringskin is not exposed) and a solvent mask.4MaskingBefore priming or applying antifouling, mask off the area to be painted.Apply the antifouling at the correct thickness; this may mean an extra coat isneeded, depending on application methods and conditions.‘Step-by-Step’Project Guides3Before starting your project, always check the weather conditions! See Pages 23-25.Previously painted surfaces:2 InspectionCheck for areas of damage, separation or peeling, or any other indicationsthat the existing coating is not firmly adhered to the substrate.Preparation – in good conditionHigh pressure fresh water wash, to removeloose antifouling; ensuring all residue andwash water is contained and disposed of,according to local legislation. Allow to dry.Check for compatibility. Continue at Step 5.5Repair/PrimingRepair damage with Watertite Epoxy Fillerwhere necessary. Inspect GRP for gelcoatdamage and signs of osmosis – treataccordingly.Seal incompatible or unknown antifoulingswith Primocon. Bare substrates should beprimed, according to substrate. Productrecommendations are provided on labelsand data sheets. Remember to pay particularattention to drying times and overcoatingintervals.See Page 69 for advice on osmosis treatment. See Page 26 for advice on repairing GRP.Apply an extra coat to leading and trailingedges; e.g. waterline, trim tabs, outdrives,keels and rudders. These areas experiencemore water turbulence and so more wear onthe paint surface.Follow overcoating times and immersiontimes carefully. Failure to do this could resultin detachment, blistering or cracking of theantifouling. The marine environment is harshfor paint so it must be allowed to drythoroughly before immersion.Richard Jerram, Technical Helpline“Remember your PPE!”Most antifoulings contain biocides so should be handled with care; ensure the correct personal protectiveequipment (PPE) is worn at all times.Click or call and ask the experts!The CompleteAntifouling GuideThe CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideSee Page 52 to check antifouling compatibility.ColourCard43Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday4445

‘Step-by-Step’ Project GuidesBoat Paint GuideContentsn Painting outdrives, stern gear,propellers and keelsOutdrives and stern gear are usually constructed from aluminium. Propellers areusually bronze or aluminium. Keels are typically cast iron or lead. It’s important tochoose an antifouling that is hard, durable and suitable for these high wear areasand also one that is compatible with the substrate you are painting.Roger BoltonUK Sales and Marketing Team3PrimingApply a primer recommended for the selectedantifouling and substrate; always followthe recommendations given on the productlabel.See Pages 54-57 for primer recommendations.1Health and SafetyBefore commencing preparatory work, ensurethe area you are working in is adequatelyventilated. Ensure you are wearing the correctPPE; we recommend safety spectacles,goggles or visors, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls(ensuring skin is not exposed) and a solventmask.Before starting your project, always check the weather conditions! See Pages 23-25.4Applying antifoulingApply the selected antifouling, following thelabel recommendations on film thickness,overcoating and immersions times carefully.Not all antifoulings are suitable for application to bronze and aluminium, so it’s important to check compatibility whenselecting which antifouling product to use. See Pages 04-06 for antifouling product information.‘Step-by-Step’Project GuidesThe CompleteAntifouling Guide2 PreparationThe key to protecting your underwater metals from corrosion is correctpreparation of the substrate and choosing the best priming solution foryour project. Before commencing any preparation, it is important to establishthe type of metal you are working with.The CompleteTopsides GuideOnce you’ve confirmed your substrate see Page 22 for substrate preparation information and follow this advicecarefully.Richard Jerram, Technical Helpline“Take care with zinc anodes!”Care should be taken not to paint zinc anodes, which are often located next to the prop shafts, as thiswill seriously reduce their effectiveness. When painting your outdrives, underwater metals and keels,the longevity of any antifouling is difficult to predict as coating adhesion can be an issue, particularly onpropellers. Thorough surface preparation is critical to promote good adhesion between the substrate andthe coating.Click or call and ask the experts!ColourCardBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuide46Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday47

The Complete Antifouling GuideBoat Paint GuideContentsn What is antifouling?Antifouling is the most common (and arguably themost important) painting job carried out by boatowners. It is vital to protect your boat throughantifouling, as once fouling has a hold on yourhull it will rapidly colonise the surface, makingit difficult to remove.Applying an antifouling paint will prevent theattachment of fouling organisms, such as barnacles,weeds and slime, to the hull of your boat – a fouledhull can cause serious problems, thereforeprevention is much better than cure.How do antifoulings work?Antifouling paints work by delivering a controlled,steady release of biocide (such as copper) from thepaint surface into the microscopic layer of waternext to the hull. It is this layer of biocide that stopsthe fouling from settling. Modern antifouling paintsare specifically formulated to release just the rightamount of biocide to keep the surface cleanthroughout the season, without the need to scrubyour boat.How do we do this?It’s simple to control fouling, yet the process isa complex one! The paint must be formulatedto release just enough biocide to stop fouling –but no more.Why use an antifouling?As active boaters, we are all concerned about howour activities may impact on the environment. Fuelconsumption and engine efficiency can contribute tosmog: waste tank discharge can pollute waters andboating in sensitive areas can affect the balance ofaquatic life. Fortunately, these effects can becontrolled and minimised, ensuring a clean, safeenvironment for all of us to enjoy our boatingpassion. By taking steps to minimise your potentialimpact on the marine environment, you cancontribute towards keeping it clean and safefor all of us to enjoy.There are THREE key reasonsfouling growth should beprevented:SafetyHeavy fouling growth will reduce the responsivenessof your boat as well as making it sit lower in thewater, due to the extra weight. Fouling can alsogrow unevenly across the bottom, throwing yourboat off balance, potentially making it dangerouslyuncontrollable. This can have serious implicationsin challenging weather conditions.To prevent hull damageFouling can burrow into hull coatings, opening upthe surface and allowing water to come in contactwith unprotected metals and fibreglass. This cancause corrosion to metals and blisters in fibreglassthrough osmosis. These problems are expensiveand time consuming to repair.Speed & EfficiencyFouling causes drag – drag reduces speed.Therefore, more fuel or energy is needed to drivethe boat through the water to maintain the samespeed. For racing boats this can make a bigdifference when competing. However, an increasein fuel consumption will not only cost more, but willalso have an environmental impact due to increasedair pollution.Choosing an antifoulingYou can very easily do a professional quality jobyourself, but you must bear in mind a few importantpoints. The type of antifouling you choose should betailored both to your boating style and to the foulingchallenges in your area. Different water qualitiesand temperatures produce different types andbreeds of fouling. Even in a small area thedifferences can be quite dramatic; affected byoutfalls, pollution, inflows from rivers and streams,the speed of flow of the water, tidal exchange,salinity and even shading from cliffs, trees andbuildings.The International antifoulingrange provides protectionfrom the THREE key foulingchallenges:AnimalTwo types of animal fouling commonly attach toboat hulls. Hard-bodied animal fouling organisms,such as Barnacles and Tubeworms, have a hardouter shell, can grow to a considerable size,and exert a strong negative impact on boatperformance.Soft-bodied animal fouling, such as Hydroidsand Ascidians, lack a shell but are still difficultto remove and significantly increase drag.WeedWeed requires light to grow and is normallyconfined to the sides of vessels, being particularlyprevalent at the waterline. The three types of weedfouling are characterised by their colour, Green,Brown or Red. All types can be responsible forincreases in drag and loss of performance.SlimeSlime consists of a collection of many differentspecies of single celled organisms that produce asyrupy medium in which to settle. It is present insome form on virtually every surface immersed inmarine and fresh water environments. Slime canvary in appearance from clear to dark brown orgreen depending on the species present and may,depending on composition, reduce the efficacy ofunderlying antifouling coatings. Slime is often noteasily removed by the motion of a hull throughthe water.The CompleteAntifouling GuideThe CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideColourCard48Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday49

The Complete Antifouling GuideBoat Paint GuideContentsn Antifouling typesWe, at International, manufacture a wide variety of antifoulings to meet all sorts of fouling challenges andoften, more importantly, different boating styles. The following information will help you identify which ‘type’of antifouling is most suited to your needs.SUBSTRATEPRIMERBiolux ® Technology‘Biolux Technology’ isa unique antifoulingtechnology developed by International.It consists of a system of organic boostingbiocides incorporated in a highly effectivecontrolled release film.Polishingn Polishing action provides controlled biocide release forlong-term performancen Wears away with usen Reduced maintenance – minimal build-up reduces preparationtimen Haul and relaunch without repaintingHardn Hard, durable, season-long finishn Resistant to abrasion and rubbingn Suitable for fast craft and craft on dry mooringsn Scrubbable finish (see Page 51)Thin Filmn Fluoro microadditive for super speedn Ultra smooth, low-friction surface for performance boat owners,that:– Increases speed – Improves fuel efficiency– Reduces fuel consumption – Extends engine life– Minimises paint build-upANTIFOULINGPAINT FILMANTIFOULINGPAINT FLAKECOPPERFLAKECOPPEROXIDECAVITIES INLEACHED LAYERDid you know...Copper as an antifouling biocide: Copper is an element.It is present throughout the natural world and it is an essentialmicronutrient that all living organisms need in order to survive.Indeed it is even present in small amounts in our drinking water,which occurs due to erosion of copper plumbing. All this isnormal. Copper can also be used to inhibit marine foulinggrowth. That is why it’s currently used in antifouling paint.In fact, copper has been used as an antifouling biocide forhundreds of years.n Responsible use of antifoulingsInternational ® leads the way in innovativetechnology, providing effective long-lastingantifouling paints that minimise potential impactsto the environment.The use of antifoulings in many countries is highlyregulated and all International antifoulings areregistered and approved by the relevant authorities.For more information on our products includingtechnical data, application information, featuresand benefits see the appropriate sections onyachtpaint.com.The following table is a quick checklist summaryfor the responsible use of antifoulings.Antifouling Checklist✓ Consult your local boatyard for advice onmaintaining your boat.✓ Choose an antifouling appropriate for your boatingneeds (lifetime, performance etc) that requires littleor no in-season maintenance.✓ Avoid unnecessary frequent scrubbing of yourantifouling.✓ Read the product label and follow H&S guidelines forpersonal protective equipment when applyingantifoulings.✓ Use a registered antifouling paint.✓ Apply the right amount of paint for the recommendedlifetime, even if this means putting on an extra coator re-applying after 1-2 years.✓ Follow the correct overcoating and immersion timesof the antifouling.✓ Collect and dispose of wash down water and paintscrapings as required by law. Contact your localauthority for advice on disposal methods.✗ Do not discard tins or pour paint into watercourses, use the facilities provided. It is best toallow paints to harden before disposal.Scrubbing your antifouling –the factsA common misconception is that scrubbing thepaint surface to reveal a fresh layer of biocide willenhance the long term performance of the paint.This is not the case. Excessive or too frequentscrubbing can, in fact, dramatically shorten thelifetime of the paint.International antifouling paints are designed toperform with little or no maintenance. If the surfaceis rubbed away by regular cleaning, then a largeconcentration of biocide is released when some ofthe top layer is removed. The more you scrub, themore you can remove the paint film and the quickerthe paint can fail. This will become a constantsource of maintenance, as the more you scrub,the quicker the paint will fail, meaning you needto scrub again and more frequently and so on,and so on.Constant scrubbing creates further issues.First, it releases more biocide into the waterthan the paint was designed to release. Second,underwater scrubbing also releases paint flakesand debris into the marine environment.Talk to your local boatyardYour local boatyard uses professional paintapplicators to apply antifouling paints. Theseapplicators are trained in the safe application andremoval of antifoulings. Your local boatyard can givegood advice on which antifoulings to choose for yourtype of boat (hard, polishing) and the performancestrength required for your boating environment.Did you know...Most antifoulings never release all the biocide inthe paint film. They are designed to release justthe right amount of biocide during the useful lifeof the paint to control fouling. At the end of thistime a proportion of the biocide is still lockedaway in the paint that is still left on the boat.This biocide was never designed to be released.Scrubbing the paint liberates this biocide,flushing the water with much more biocidethan is necessary.The CompleteAntifouling GuideThe CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideColourCard50Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday51

The Complete Antifouling GuideBoat Paint GuideContentsn Is my new antifouling compatible?Once you’ve identified the International antifouling that’s most suitable, if you have an existing coating on yourhull you will need to establish the compatibility of the two products. Use this simple table to check compatibilitybetween International ® antifoulings and also with competitor products.Micron ® OptimaMicron ® ExtraCruiser ® UnoBottomcoatNew AntifoulingInterspeed UltraTrilux ® 33NavigatorVC ® OffshoreVC ® 17m ExtraTrilux ®Prop-O-Drevn How much antifouling paint do I need?Use these following quick steps to calculate the amount of paint you need:1. Work out the area to be painted using the appropriate formulation (below).2. Divide the area by the coverage of the paint you’ve chosen to determine how many litres per coat you will need.3. Multiply the litres per coat by the number of coats to give your total paint requirement.LOAFImportant: If you own an aluminium boat,only apply antifouling paints specificallyrecommended for aluminium to preventcorrosion. Never apply products containingCuprous Oxide to aluminium.Existing Antifouling (in Good Condition)Micron ® Optima ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●Micron ® ExtraCruiser ® UnoWaterways PlusNavigatorTrilux ®Trilux ® 33VC ® OffshoreInterspeed Ultra● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●VC ® 17m Extra ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●Unknown product ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●Previousantifouling inpoor condition● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●Blakes Tiger ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●BlakesHard RacingAwlgrip ® Awl ® starGold LabelJotun Non Stop● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●BUnderwater area formulations1 Full bodied craftDLWLLWL x (B + D) = Underwater Area (m 2 )2 Fin keeled racing craftDLWL0.50 x LWL x (B + D) = Underwater Area (m 2 )Top TipApply an extra coat to all leading and trailing edges,water-line, trim-tabs, outdrives, keel and rudder. Highturbulence in these areas tends to wear the antifoulingfaster.InformationAbbreviationsLOA = Length OverallLWL = Length WaterlineB = BeamD = DraftF = FreeboardConversion Table1 foot = 0.3 metres1 metre = 3.281 feet1 square foot = 0.093 square metres1 square metre = 10.764 square feet1 gallon = 4.546 litres1 litre = 0.219 gallonThe CompleteAntifouling GuideThe CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionJotun Racing●● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●Apply after a light wet sand. Wash with fresh water and allow to dry.● Remove the antifouling using Interstrip AF. See Removing antifouling on Page 30.● Apply a barrier coat of Primocon ® before applying antifouling. See Applying antifouling on Page 43.Interstrip AF3Medium draft racing craftLWL0.75 x LWL x (B + D) = Underwater Area (m 2 )DTop TipAlways use the specified amount of antifouling. Underapplicationcan result in premature fouling and costlymid-season haul out.TroubleshootingGuideA paint stripper specially formulated for removing old or unknown antifoulings without damaging the underlyingsubstrate (including gelcoat).For more information see the Antifouling quick reference guide on Page 04.ColourCard52Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday53

The Complete Antifouling GuideBoat Paint GuideContentsn Below water schemes: two-part productsThese schemes provide the maximum level of protection.n Below water schemes: one-part productsThese schemes provide a good level of protection.GRPAluminiumGRPAluminiumPrimer(4 coats min.)Gelshield ® 200Primer (5 coats)Interprotect ®Primer (1 coat)PrimoconSurface Primer (1 coat)Primocon(1 coat thinned 10-15%with Thinner No.3)Tie Coat (1 coat)Gelshield ® 200Antifouling(2-3 coats)International AntifoulingAntifouling (2-3 coats)International AntifoulingPrimer (5 coats)PrimoconAntifouling (2-3 coats)International AntifoulingAntifouling (2-3 coats)International AntifoulingWoodSurface Primer (1 coat)Interprotect ®(1 coat thinned 10-15%with Thinner No.7)Iron/SteelPrimer (5 coats)Interprotect ®WoodSurface Primer (1 coat)Primocon(1 coat thinned 10-15%with Thinner No.3;15-20% on oily woods)Iron/SteelSurface Primer (1 coat)Primocon(1 coat thinned 10-15%with Thinner No.3)The CompleteAntifouling GuidePrimer (3 coats)Interprotect ®Antifouling(2-3 coats)International AntifoulingPrimer (3 coats)PrimoconPrimer (5 coats)PrimoconThe CompleteTopsides GuideLeadAntifouling (2-3 coats)International AntifoulingSurface Primer (1 coat)Interprotect ®(1 coat thinned 10-15%with Thinner No.7)Primer (5 coats)Interprotect ®FillerIf required for small areas, Watertite Fillershould be applied after the first coat ofGelshield 200 or Interprotect.LeadAntifouling (2-3 coats)International AntifoulingSurface Primer (1 coat)Primocon(1 coat thinned 10-15%with Thinner No.3)FillerIf required for small areas, Watertite Fillershould be applied between the first andsecond coats of Primer.Antifouling (2-3 coats)International AntifoulingSee substrate preparation on Page 22.Primer (5 coats)See substrate preparation on Page 22.PrimoconBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideAntifouling (2-3 coats)International AntifoulingImportant: If you own an aluminium boat,only apply antifouling paints specificallyrecommended for aluminium to preventcorrosion. Never apply products containingCuprous Oxide to aluminium.Antifouling (2-3 coats)International AntifoulingImportant: If you own an aluminium boat,only apply antifouling paints specificallyrecommended for aluminium to preventcorrosion. Never apply products containingCuprous Oxide to aluminium.ColourCard54 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday55

The Complete Antifouling GuideBoat Paint GuideContentsn Below water schemes: VC ® productsUse these schemes when using VC antifoulings.GRPPrimer(3-5 coats)VC ® Tar2Antifouling(2-3 coats)International VC ® AntifoulingIron/SteelPrimer(4 coats min.)VC ® Tar2Antifouling(2-3 coats)International VC ® Antifoulingn Propellers, outdrives and sterngearOutdrives are built out of aluminium. This presents compatibility issues with cuprous-oxide containingantifoulings. Propellers are typically made with aluminium, bronze or stainless steel.AluminiumSurface Primer (1 coat)Interprotect ®(1 coat thinned 10-15%with Thinner No.7)Primer (5 coats)Interprotect ®(or VC ® Prop-O-Drev Primer– no Surface Primer required)BronzeLeadSee osmosis protection schemes on Page 68.FillerIf required for small areas, Watertite Fillershould be applied after the first coat ofVC Tar2.SteelAntifouling(3 coats)Trilux ® 33(or Trilux ® Prop-O-Drev)Antifouling(3 coats)Trilux ® 33(or Trilux ® Prop-O-Drev)The CompleteAntifouling GuideSurface Primer (1 coat)VC ® Tar2(1 coat thinned 10-15%with VC General Thinner)Primer (3 coats min.)VC ® Tar2Antifouling (2-3 coats)International VC ® AntifoulingSurface Primer (1 coat)Interprotect ®(1 coat thinned 10-15%with Thinner No.7)Primer (5 coats)Interprotect ®(or VC ® Prop-O-Drev Primer– no Surface Primer required)Antifouling(3 coats min.)Trilux ® 33(or Trilux ® Prop-O-Drev)The CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionSee substrate preparation on Page 22.See Painting outdrives, stern gear, propellers and keels on Page 46.ColourCardTroubleshootingGuide56 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday57

The Complete Topsides GuideBoat Paint GuideContentsn Working with finishesn Testing for compatibilityApart from providing an enhanced cosmetic finishto your boat, paints provide a protective barrieragainst the elements that will attack the surfaceduring the season: sea, rain, wind and sun.Whilst a two-part system, such as Perfection, offersexcellent resistance to abrasion, even this can stillwear through in excessive circumstances. Using aone-part system, such as Toplac, on these areas willmake it easier to touch up any areas of damage,should this be required outside of standardmaintenance intervals.To test if an existing topside paint product, or a varnish, is compatiblewith our two-part polyurethane products; tape a cloth soaked in ThinnersNo.9 to the previously painted substrate for 24 hours. If the surface issoftened, it is probably not compatible. In this instance, unless strippingdown to the bare substrate is an option, a one-part product should beapplied.What preparation is necessary?The most critical aspect of any painting job ispreparation. Poor surface preparation will alwaysshow through the final coat; this will reduce theeffectiveness of the coating system and canpotentially lead to the premature failure andseparation of the coating from the substrate.As a guide, you should be aware that you willneed to spend up to 80% of your time onpreparation and priming, in order to achievea first class finish of which you can be proud.Does the substrate determineproduct choice?Modern construction methods using fibreglass,steel and aluminium provide a stable, rigid surfacecompatible with all types of finish products. However,if your boat is made of wood, the characteristics ofthe substrate and the construction method used willhave a bearing on the product you choose.Carvel and clinker (or lapstrake) constructions areflexible in nature; the wood tends to move as themoisture content varies. Hard systems, such astwo-part polyurethanes, cannot sufficiently flex toaccommodate this movement making them likelyto crack – therefore, these should be avoided, infavour of a one-part system, as these are suitablefor all wood constructions.Two-part systems, such as Perfection, are moresuited to the highly stable constructions of doublediagonal planking, cold or hot moulded veneers andstrip planking where epoxy or Resorcinol typeadhesives have been used.What about areas of high wearand tear?Areas where there is considerable foot traffic orharsh abrasion, such as gunwale rails and coamingsides, will need frequent repair to keep them inpristine condition.Clinker or carvel construction?Carvel built wooden boats and tall ships aremade by fixing planks to a frame so the planksbutt up against one another. In Clinker building(or lapstrake) hulls the planks overlap alongtheir edges. In a Carvel construction a smoothhull is created, that is stronger than a clinkerbuilt hull. However more caulking is requiredbetween the joints in carvel than in a clinkerconstruction.The framing gives a carvel construction astronger hull, meaning it can carry a full sailplan, and can have a longer and broader hull.Clinker built vessels are lighter because theyhave less internal framing, meaning theymove faster because they displace less water.Clinker vessels are less rigid then carvelconstructions; this limits the type of sailingrigs the vessel can take.ClinkerconstructionCarvelconstructionn Application techniques1 2 3Applying by brushUse the largest brush possible. Long flexible bristles are best for gloss paints. When applying by brush a goodtechnique is the ‘Union Jack’ method. Paint is applied to the surface with a diagonal brushing action from theleft and right (1). This is then spread further with horizontal strokes (2) before finally ‘tipping off’ with lightvertical strokes (3). This results in any brush marks being able to flow out to give the best possible finish.Applying with roller and brushOur products are formulated so that a great gloss finish can also beobtained through application with a solvent resistant, high-density smallcell size foam roller. This will minimise the formation of bubbles in thesurface that can occur with mohair and large cell foam rollers. The paintapplied will be thinner and so more coats may be required.The roller is used to apply paint to the surface and the pad or brush isused to create a smooth surface by ‘tipping off.’ This works particularlywell when two painters work side by side.Always test your choice of application method first, to establish if itprovides the finish you require.The CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideSee Page 32 for advice on Applying finishes.ColourCard58 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday59

The Complete Topsides GuideBoat Paint GuideContentsn Two-part premium paint systemsThese schemes provide the maximum level of protection available.n One-part conventional paint systemsThese schemes provide a good level of protection.GRPAluminiumGRPAluminiumUndercoat (1-2 coats)Perfection ® UndercoatPrimer (4 coats)Interprotect ®Undercoat (1-2 coats)Pre-KotePrimer (4 coats)Yacht PrimerUndercoat (2 coats)Perfection ® UndercoatUndercoat (1-2 coats)Pre-KoteTopcoat (2-3 coats)Perfection ®Topcoat (2-3 coats)Perfection ®Topcoat (2-3 coats)Toplac ®Topcoat (2-3 coats)Toplac ®WoodSteelWoodSteelPrimer (3 coats)Interprotect ® *Undercoat (1-2 coats)Perfection ® UndercoatTopcoat (2-3 coats)Perfection ®Primer (4 coats)Interprotect ®Undercoat (1-2 coats)Perfection ® UndercoatTopcoat (2-3 coats)Perfection ®Primer(1 thinned + 4 full coats)Yacht Primer*Undercoat (1-2 coats)Pre-KoteTopcoat (2-3 coats)Toplac ®Primer (4 coats)Yacht PrimerUndercoat (1-2 coats)Pre-KoteTopcoat (2-3 coats)Toplac ®The CompleteTopsides Guide* or Clear Wood Sealer Fast Dry; 1 thinned + 3 full coats* or Clear Wood Sealer Fast Dry; 1 thinned + 3 full coatsBlister Repairand PreventionFillerIf required for small areas, Watertite Fillershould be applied after the first coat ofPrimer.ColourCardTroubleshootingGuide60 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday61

The Complete Topsides GuideBoat Paint GuideContentsn VarnishesWood has a beauty of its own that a good varnishshould enhance, as well as protect. Most varnishesare designed to protect against man-made damageincluding oil, detergent and alcohol spills. However,yacht varnishes also need to provide a protectivebarrier against the natural elements: Sea, wind, rainand UV radiation from the sun will attack exposedsurfaces. In paint products, some protection isoffered from the colour pigments used in the paintformulation. However, in clear varnishes no pigmentexists.What’s in a varnish?Varnishes have always been considered amysterious blend of black art and science, but inreality there are only five main ingredients in a topquality marine varnish – oil, resin, solvent, driersand additives. The trend in modern varnishtechnology, that most affects the long-termdurability of a varnish, is the inclusion of additivesspecifically designed to combat the harmful effectsof UV energy, i.e. sunlight.High performance varnishes from International –Perfection Plus, Schooner Gold and Compass –contain a blend of premium quality UV absorbersand Hindered Amine Light Stabilisers (HALS), as wellWhat are UV Absorbers and HALS?as UV protectors, to extend the lifespan of the varnishcoating beyond that of conventional products.UV protectionIn addition to UV absorbers and HALS, Internationaluses two additional additives to help protect thesurface from UV damage – Surface Stabilisers andAntioxidants. Surface Stabilisers repair damagefrom UV light by pulling together the polymer (orresin) segments at the coating’s surface, keepingthe surface layer stabilised, meaning colour andgloss are maintained.Antioxidants are used to combat photo-degradationand oxidisation. This also helps with colour stability,by keeping the varnish from fading or becomingcloudy.Which varnish should I choose?The substrate and construction method of the areayou’re varnishing will affect your choice of coating.Two-part systems – such as Perfection Plus – arenot suitable for application to flexible constructions.See page 58 for more information on selectingproducts according to substrate.Areas where there is considerable foot trafficor harsh abrasion, such as gunwale rails andUV Absorbers soak up detrimental UV rays from sunlight, converting them into heat, which is thendissipated through the surface of the coating (1).Hindered Amine Light Stabilisers (HALS) do not absorb radiation; instead they protect the coating resinfrom the harmful effect of photochemically-produced ‘free radicals’ by neutralising them, hindering chemicaldegradation. HALS regenerate themselves during the neutralisation process, so go on providing protectionthroughout the lifetime of the coating (2-4).1 2 3 4UV absorbers convert UVenergy into heat energyThe sun’s rays produce harmfulfree radicals (red)The HALS (white) attachthemselves to the free radicals,neutralising themThe HALS regenerate as theneutralised free radicals arereleasedcoaming sides, will need frequent repair tokeep them in pristine condition. While the two-part,Perfection Plus systems offer excellent resistance toabrasion they can still wear through in excessivecircumstances. As conventional and premium onepartsystems are considerably easier to touch in andmake good than the harder two-part systems, theyare more suitable for these areas.What preparation is needed?If you’re applying over an existing varnish, ensurethe surface is sound, if not the coating should beremoved. Test for compatibility – see page 59.For bare wood, unless you’re using a clear surfaceprimer, such as International Clear Wood Sealer FastDry, we recommend thinning the first coat of all ourvarnishes. This promotes good penetration of thesurface and adhesion of subsequent coats. Afterthis first coat, the surface will appear rough – asthe exposed ends of the wood absorb the varnishand lift – sand this smooth with a medium gradesandpaper.How do I get the best results?Applying varnish with a brush is usually the bestmethod, although roller application can be effectiveon large, flat surfaces. Brush out the varnish withfirm strokes, along the grain, holding the brush at90° to the surface. Then ‘tip-off’ by gently strokingthe surface with the brush at 45°, following thegrain. Always follow the minimum coatrecommendations – however for long-lastingprotection you can apply additional coats,depending on the system. As the number of coatsincreases, sanding in between each coat willincrease the level of gloss and depth of lustre.Hints and tipsSee Page 40 for advice on Applying varnishes and Test for compatibility on Page 59.n Round the edges of any scrapers with a file to avoidgouging.n Keep the sandpaper clean and change it frequently.n Sand by numbers, finishing the surface with aprogressively finer grade of paper.n Varnishing is best achieved on warm, dry mornings –cold weather slows drying and damp spoils the gloss.n Always use a clean brush, previously used only forvarnish.n Always buy the highest quality varnish and brushavailable. This will ensure you achieve the mostattractive finish.n Clean new brushes before use.n Test the finish on a spare piece of wood beforeapplying to the boat.n On large areas use a foam roller to apply the initialcoat, followed immediately behind with a wide brushfor the finishing strokes – this is best done by twopeople.n After cleaning with the correct thinners, wash thebrush in detergent and warm water, dry and wrapin greaseproof paper in a fine chisel shape.n Alternatively, having cleaned and washed the brush,suspend by its handle to avoid any ‘fishtailing’ of thebristle.n As the varnish ages in the tin you may find there arelumps or contamination. Sieving the varnish into aseparate container through cheesecloth, a paint filteror an old stocking is a good solution to this problem.n Never apply direct from the can, as this willintroduce contamination.n Always pour the amount of varnish that you expectto use at any one time, into a separate container.n Don’t use varnish which has been open for a longperiod as it will have picked up dust.n Do not varnish wood when exposed to direct sunlight.n Never leave bare wood exposed too long as it willabsorb moisture from the atmosphere.The CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideColourCard62 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday63

The Complete Topsides GuideBoat Paint GuideContentsn Two-part premium varnish systemsTraditional bare wood systemReduced work time bare wood systemn Complete boatcareThe International Boatcare range is designed to complement our boat painting and maintenance product rangeand is specially formulated with ease of use in mind.Primer(1 thinned coat)Perfection ® PlusVarnish (4 coats min.)Perfection ® PlusPrimer(1 thinned + 3 full coats)Clear Wood Sealer Fast DryVarnish (2 coats min.)Perfection ® PlusSuper Cleanern High strength formula removeswax, dirt, oil and greasen Does not damage acrylic glassDirections for use:– Rinse surface, choose concentration(fresh or seawater), wash with sponge, rinse– Repeat as requiredSuitable for:GRP✓Paintwork✓n One part conventional varnish systemsTraditional bare wood systemPrimer(2 thinned coats)Schooner ® Gold(Compass, Original, Goldspar Satin;1 thinned coat)Varnish (4-6 coats)Schooner ® Gold(Compass; 3-5 coatsOriginal, Goldspar Satin;3 coats min.)Alternative bare wood systemPrimer(1 thinned + 3 full coats)Clear Wood Sealer Fast DryVarnish (4 coats min.)Schooner ® Gold(Compass, Original,Goldspar Satin; 3 coats min.)Polwaxn Clean, polish and wax all in onen Simple solution to save you timeand effortDirections for use:– Apply with clean dry cloth, polishoff in circular movementsSuitable for:GRP Paintwork✓✓2 step woodcareEnjoy the beauty of natural teak and hardwoods with this simple 2-step woodcaresystem. Clean, restore and protect your deck,hand and toe rails, wooden furniture, cockpitand gratings with minimum effort.Teak Restorern Cleans and restores teak andhard wood surfaces back to newn Does not bleach or damage thesurrounding surfacesDirections for use:– Soak the wood (fresh or seawater)apply generously and leave for 5 minutes– Scrub across the grain and rinse withfresh waterThe CompleteTopsides GuideBlister Repairand PreventionOily woodsHard woods such as Teak and Iroko, that are oily bynature, must be degreased adequately with the correctsolvent prior to the application of a first thinned coat ofvarnish.Premium Teak Oiln Penetrates even damp wood,to protect and enhancen Contains rust protection waxfor screws, nails and fixingsTroubleshootingGuideDid you know...All International Boatcare productsare safe for painted, GRP, woodand metal surfaces.Directions for use:– Apply 1-2 coats with a cloth or brush,allow to dryColourCard64 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday65

Blister Repair and PreventionBoat Paint GuideContentsn What is osmosis?Osmosis is a process of degeneration withina glass fibre laminate. It is caused by a chemicalreaction between water and unreacted substancesremaining in the substrate, post manufacture.Typically, water enters the hull substrate throughthe gelcoat and, once inside, reacts with thechemical components to form acidic substances.These substances create pressure behind thegelcoat, which causes blisters and eventuallycracking. Once the gelcoat is breached in thismanner, the underlying laminate is capable ofabsorbing water like a sponge.Osmosis is not only caused by water on the outsideof the hull – bilge water from the inside can alsocause a problem. It is therefore worth makingefforts to keep your bilges dry.When might osmosis occur?Any unprotected hull is likely to show signs ofosmosis eventually, rather like rust on a car.The exact length of time before osmosis occursdepends on many factors, including: the type ofwater in which the hull is moored, the temperatureof the water and most importantly, the quality of theoriginal hull construction.In some cases, reactive impurities in the gelcoat andlaminate will cause osmosis in the early life of aboat. This is a structural problem and should bereferred back to the boat manufacturer. However,even well-built, fibreglass hulls will eventuallyexperience osmosis and blistering. This is whywe recommend applying an epoxy protection layer,even to new boats.123Health and SafetyBefore commencing preparatory work, ensurethe area you are working in is adequatelyventilated. Ensure you are wearing the correctPPE; we recommend safety spectacles, gogglesor visors, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls (ensuringskin is not exposed) and a solvent mask.PreparationDegrease with solvent or Super Cleaner.Sand well using 180-220 grade paper.Clean thoroughly and allow to dry completely.If your hull is new, proceed to Step 4.InspectionInspect the gelcoat for signs of damage orcracking. Small defects can be repaired withWatertite Epoxy Filler following the instructionson the product label.n How to protect against osmosisProtection is always better than cure and it reallydoes make sense to protect a new boat as wellas an older craft. To achieve this protection it isnecessary to create a water barrier to seal thesurface. This is done over the existing gelcoat.There is no better time to apply an anti-osmosissystem than when the boat has not yet beenlaunched. Some boat builders now offer Gelshield ®treatment from International as part of theirproduction process, so it is worth finding outif this is the case. However, it must be stressedthat protective systems cannot stop osmosis onceit has started, or prevent it from occurring in poorlyconstructed hulls. Therefore, it is important that afull check is undertaken before starting.Important: The application of an osmosisprotection system could protect against seriousand costly structural problems in the later lifeof your hull.4Look out for any warning signs that may suggest that water has entered the laminate or that osmosismay have occurred.For further information on osmosis and other warning signs, see Pages 68-69.If more extensive damage is found or suspected we recommend that you seek the advice of aprofessional surveyor before continuing.ApplicationApply Gelshield 200, building up to minimumdry film thickness of 250 microns (this willtypically take around 5 coats) using a brush orroller. For ease, alternate between the grey andgreen shades, beginning and ending with grey.Blister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideColourCard66 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday67

Blister Repair and PreventionBoat Paint GuideContentsn Osmosis protection schemesOther warning signs to look forProminent fibresSeen protruding beneath or through the gelcoatand can cause ‘wicking’ where water is drawninto the hull by capillary action.Star crazingThis effect can occur where the gelcoat is brittle.Fine cracks usually form due to severe flexingor impact damage, allowing water to seep intothe laminate.PinholesTiny bubbles present in the gelcoat reduce itseffectiveness and promote rapid water absorption.GRP: International GRP: VC ®Primer (4-5 coats)Primer (4 coats min.)Gelshield ® 200VC ® Tar 2Tie-Coat (1 coat)Gelshield ® 200AntifoulingAntifouling(2-3 coats)(2-3 coats)International AntifoulingVC ® Antifouling® Proper preparation of the gelcoatn How to recognise osmosisThe main symptom – blistersBlisters are the most common warning sign andif identified should be followed up with immediateprofessional examination. Blisters can vary fromsmall pinhead blisters, to areas as large as the palmof a hand. The presence of any fluid behind a blisterindicates a potential problem. If the fluid has apungent, vinegary odour or feels greasy or stickywhen rubbed between the thumb and forefinger,there is a high probability of osmosis. Before anytreatment is carried out, you need to establish whathas caused the problem. We recommend that youseek the advice of a professional surveyor.Some blisters occur for reasons other than osmosis.They are often evident as a rash of small pinheadblisters or swellings, either locally (often aroundthe water-line) or over the entire underwater area.These blisters are hard and difficult to break andwhen broken open will be dry, with no odourevident. The likely cause is air voids. This is not aserious problem, but hull moisture levels should bechecked before commencement of any remedialtreatment.n How to treat osmosis1This includes getting all of the antifoulingpaint and primers off and removal of as muchgelcoat as necessary to get the hull dry (i.e. theentire gelcoat or just small areas). A professional,who has looked at your boat, should make thisdetermination.2 Drying of the hullThis is the most critical step in the process.If you do not get the hull dry it will re-blister.We recommend a comprehensive washing anddrying procedure.3 Application of Gelshield ® PlusThis solventless epoxy seals up the laminateand fills any cloth that has been voided of resin.It provides a water barrier to minimise thepossibility of reoccurrence of damage. Contactour Technical Help Desk to obtain a copy of theGelshield Plus booklet.4Application of Gelshield ® 200This will act as a tie-coat to the antifouling.Undercuring of the gelcoatIncorrect mixing or application in unsuitableconditions can cause failure to cure properly.This results in porosity and may lead to wateringress.Gelshield ® PlusHigh build solventless epoxyfor osmosis treatmentn A high build, solventless epoxyprimern Available in two colours toaid self-on-self applicationn Contains no harmful solventsto migrate into the hull and causereblisteringGelshield ® 200Epoxy primer for osmosis protectionn Quick drying, easy to apply,epoxy primer for protectionof GRP against osmosisn Provides protection againstosmosis in five coats (250 µm)n Useable down to 5°Cn Fast drying allows multiple coat applicationin a single dayBlister Repairand PreventionTroubleshootingGuideColourCard68 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday69

Troubleshooting GuideContentsn Common problems and how to avoid themThe following troubleshooting guide is aimed at helping you identify some of the common problems associatedwith boat painting and providing you with information to avoid these occurring. This guide is by no meansexhaustive – should you encounter a problem that you cannot diagnose, please contact the Helpline for furtherassistance.12Adhesion Failure(also referred to as Flaking of Paint/Delamination)Avoid this by: Ensuring that the surface is clean,dry and free from contamination and has beensuitably prepared according to the paint specification.Oily woods, such as teak and iroko, should bedegreased with a solvent prior to varnishing.Do not exceed the overcoating intervals betweencoats of paint.BittinessAvoid this by: The correct preparation of thesurface. Always rub down and remove sandingdebris from the surface before applying the firstcoat of paint and ensure that the surface is notcontaminated during the curing phase.45BloomingAvoid this by: Ensuring that the painted surfacehas not been exposed to moisture or condensationduring the latter stages of drying and that thesolvent blend is correct. This phenomenon is oftenseen with amine cured epoxies.Brush MarksAvoid this by: Thinning your paint to the correctviscosity and ensuring that it is adequately mixedbefore applying. For two-part paints use the mixedproduct within the pot life stated on the productdatasheet.6Fouling3BlisteringAvoid this by: Ensuring that correct overcoatinginterval is followed to avoid solvent entrapment andother contamination. In immersed conditions theblistering could be osmosis.Avoid this by: Ensuring that you have appliedthe correct amount of antifouling, as indicated onthe product datasheet. Ensure that the antifoulingstrength of the product used is suitable forthe waters in which the boat is moored andnavigates.TroubleshootingGuideSee Blister Prevention on Page 66.ColourCard70 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday71

Troubleshooting GuideBoat Paint GuideContents7CrazingAvoid this by: Refraining from using strongsolvents on conventional coatings, as they willpenetrate and soften the surface causing crazingto occur.n Painting & project diaryUse this space to keep a record of any projects undertaken, so you have your product information to hand,when you need to touch-up or reapply.Project 1Preparation workDateWeather (conditions, temperature, humidity)Products usedColourQuantityNo of coats8Darkening of TimberAvoid this by: Ensuring that the end grain ofyour timber is sealed to avoid water penetrationunder the varnish layer. This will cause theunderlying wood to darken.Other remarks:Project 2DatePreparation workWeather (conditions, temperature, humidity)Products usedColourQuantityNo of coatsOther remarks:9CissingAvoid this by: Thoroughly cleaning the surfaceand ensuring that is clear of wax, grease andperspiration (from your hands) prior to theapplication of the first coat of paint.Project 3DateProducts usedPreparation workWeather (conditions, temperature, humidity)ColourQuantityNo of coatsTroubleshootingGuideOther remarks:ColourCard72 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday73

Topside FinishesColour CardContentsPerfectionUltimate Performance, Two-Part Polyurethane FinishToplac ®Premium Quality High-Gloss Durable Yacht EnamelInterdeck ®Slip Resistant Polyurethane Deck PaintSnow WhiteB8000 cMediterranean WhiteA184 cOff WhiteA192 cSnow White001 ●Mediterranean White545 ●White905* ●White001Grey289Cream027PlatinumA183 cCreamS070 cFighting Lady YellowS056 cRochelle RedS299 cIvory812 ●Atlantic Grey289 ●Cream027 ●NEWYellow101 ●Beige090Squall Blue923Pale Blue339Chilli RedE294 cJade Mist GreenB663 cMauritius BlueF991 cFlag BlueK990 cRescue Orange265NEWFire Red504 ●NEWRochelle Red011 ●Rustic Red501 ●Heather Morton, Specialist in Retail Finishes Development“Can’t find the deck finish you want?”Why not create your own custom-finish deck using our non-slip additive and your favourite colour fromour finishes ranges? Non-Slip Additive can be mixed in before painting or applied to the wet paint surface.Create matt or satin effects using a matting additive. Mix or match your deck and topsides – it’s yourproject, you choose!Royal BlueA216 cLauderdale BlueS936 cJet BlackY999 cBounty350 ●Norfolk Green241NEWDonegal Green077 ●Squall Blue923 ●NEWFind out ‘How To’ create a custom finish deck at yachtpaint.comRecommended undercoat for two-part finishesgc WHITE PERFECTION UNDERCOATMatting AdditivesFor One and Two-Part FinishesssBondi Blue016 ●Baltic Blue163 ●Lauderdale Blue936 ●Danube Blue104 ●DanbolineHard Wearing Coating for Bilges, Lockers and BulkheadssOxford Blue105 ●Mauritius Blue018 ●Jet Black051 ●* Colour not available in the UKGrey100Red102White001BeforeAfters FOR USE WITH TOPLAC (One-Part Finish)ss FOR USE WITH PERFECTION (Two-Part Finish)Recommended undercoat for one-part finishes● WHITE PRE-KOTE ● BLUE/GREY PRE-KOTE ● RED PRE-KOTE ● DARK BLUE PRE-KOTEBLEND(50% White Pre-Kote/50% finish colour)Whilst every care is taken to match colours on this card, the manufacturers cannot be responsible for slight variations.Products mentioned in this document are trademarks of, or licensed to, AkzoNobel. © Akzo Nobel N.V. 2009.ColourCard74 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday 7576

AntifoulingsColour CardContentsMicron ® OptimaUltimate PerformancePCruiser ® UNOOne SeasonPNavigator ®Fresh WaterHNEWBottomcoatCruisingPBlackLight BlueBlackNavyBlackBlueBlackNavyRedDover WhiteBlueRedShell WhiteRedBlueRedMicron ® ExtraMulti-Season ProtectionPInterspeed ® UltraUltimate StrengthHVC ® 17m ExtraThin FilmTFVC ® OffshorePerformanceHGraphiteBlackBlueBlackNavyBlackNavyTrilux ® 33SPBright ColoursNEWRedShell WhiteBlueRedGreenBlueLight BlueRedBlackNavyTrilux ® Prop-O-DrevAerosol ApplicationSGreyDover WhiteGreenPrincess GreyGreyBlueScarletGreenBlackGreyPPOLISHINGSPSLOW POLISHINGHHARDTFDover WhiteTHIN FILM S SPECIAL PURPOSEPRE-IMMERSIONPOST-IMMERSIONGreyWhiteWhilst every care is taken to match colours on this card,the manufacturers cannot be responsible for slight variations.ColourCard77 Helpline: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50 Open 8:15am – 4:30pm, Monday – Friday78

Roger Bolton, UK Sales Team“Visit our website for even more expert advice.”Our new look Boat Paint Guide & Colour Card has been designed with you – the customer – in mind, tomake it as easy as possible to choose the right product for your project. If you’d like more information onour products, schemes, surface preparation or simply need some expert advice on painting and maintainingyour boat, please visit our website. Check out our ‘How To’ guides for simple step-by-step information andhandy hints and tips to ensure you achieve professional results, every time!The answers are only a click away at yachtpaint.comOur World is WaterInternational Paint Ltd.1 Wellington Park, Hedge EndSouthampton, Hampshire SO30 2QUTel: +44 (0) 1489 77 50 50Fax: +44 (0) 1489 78 58 67Statements made in this brochure are advisory only and are not intended to be specific recommendations or warranties of any product, combination of products orfitness for any particular purpose. Please consult our product labels, product data sheets and/or material safety data sheets directly for complete technical information.®, International ® , the AkzoNobel logo and all product names mentionedin this publication are trademarks of, or licensed to, AkzoNobel.UK Edition © Akzo Nobel N.V. 2009