RichardActive Compassion1Exhausted he collapsed into the dirt by the roadside. <strong>The</strong> truck with the pilgrims vanished in a brown dustcloud over the horizon. Since before dawn they had stood caged in among this cheerful, motley crowd of peoplewhile the truck had rattled on shaking them all mercilessly over the potholes of the road west. <strong>The</strong>re had been noroom to sit, apart from sitting on the hard floor of the truck bed would have been worse; if one stood with bentknees as far forward as possible, one could at least cushion the worst bumps. Two days ago the truck had pickedthem up for a small fee at the Tsangpo Ferry outside of Lhatse. <strong>The</strong> pilgrims were headed for Holy Mount Kailash,another three days west.Somewhere in the mountains they had camped for the night. <strong>The</strong> pilgrims had huddled together in the open andhad got comfortably drunk on a seemingly limitless supply of Chinese beer. <strong>The</strong>y felt glad to have their small tentto themselves although it had offered little privacy. All the young girls and a few adults had crowded around them,watching the foreigners eat and go to sleep, trying to guess at their relationship. Were they married? Was hiscompanion his girlfriend, or his daughter? Asya had got very irritated by this teasing audience observing every ofher movements. "Smile!" He had told her, "if you get angry or wrinkle your brow, they will close in on you and teaseyou mercilessly until you cry." She complained that her face felt stuck in this grimace.To put an end to this game he had told them that Asya was his daughter, which did not help much, and made Asyawince. He argued with a laugh, "Our age difference is large enough, it could easily be true!" <strong>The</strong>y finally zippedtheir tent closed, and tried to find sleep despite the singing in the darkness.Actually these people had been very kind to them. On the second day, as the novelty of their presence on thetruck had worn off, and they had found that Richard spoke a funny smattering of Tibetan, they had shared theirfood with them and even tried to teach them their songs. Again and again the entire truck load broke into song.<strong>The</strong> songs were not rousing, rather a chanting of a short melody, stanza after stanza. Ballads he guessed, hisTibetan was too poor. One of the men apparently improvised the text or knew it by heart, he sang the stanza firstand then everyone joined in its repeat.<strong>The</strong> pilgrims came from Kham, eastern Tibet, and had been on the road for over a week. <strong>The</strong> men, good-looking,statuesque, tall, with strong faces, a thick strand of red wool wound into their long, dark hair, were a colorful,boisterous crowd. Each wore a short dagger with an intricate silver handle on his belt over a rough woolen jacket.<strong>The</strong> women looked splendid under their wide-brimmed, bowler hats like those Peruvian Indians wore only taller.<strong>The</strong>y were adorned with all the family finery, silver coins sewn into their dresses, coral and necklaces of turquoise.Richard had found that as a man one had to be careful with the Kham women, they were not at all shy and thoughtnothing of grabbing one by the beard or between the legs. Everybody had laughed hilariously when this hadhappened to him. He had grabbed the woman's hand, but in ignorance of their customs had let her go at once.He smiled to himself and sat up. Asya had vanished. She must be hiding behind a rock. Her backpack was lyingnext to his. He looked around, but despite the complete openness of the land he could not see her anywhere. Heshook his head and reminded himself that they had agreed not to worry. <strong>The</strong>y would always find each other again.He was surrounded by a vast desert. Not a bush, not a tree, no grass just brown dirt strewn with small rocksextending for miles. To the north rose a chain of featureless, low, brown hills worn by wind and snow. A rutted trackbranched off the Kailas road and vanished up a broad valley between the hills. It led into the Chang Tang, theforbidding, empty spaces of Inner Tibet.4
It was perfectly still. No wind. No birds. <strong>The</strong> earth was overwhelmed by an immaculate blue sky, from which thesun beat down, not hot but relentless. He had spent many days and nights in the deserts of Nevada, California,Arizona. <strong>The</strong> North American deserts were gardens by comparison with Tibet. It was so high here that nothinggrew except short yak-grass along the ice-cold rivers. Water was not in short supply, the rivers drained the snowrun-off from the higher Chang Tang. In fact, these hills were well over 6000 meters high, only because the placewhere he was sitting was itself over 4500 meters, did they look so timid.He felt utterly alone, alone on the moon. He shouted at the top of his lungs "As-yaaa!", but the sound trailed offinto space, it vanished into the empty sky without an echo. You could die here and nobody would ever find you, hethought, yes, but the land was so open that it seemed that you could not get lost, except in a snow storm.Where was she? She still had not come back. Had she fallen off the edge of the world? Well, he thought, all hecan do is to stay here and wait. He lay down again in the dirt and closed his eyes.He must have fallen asleep, because he was awoken by the snorting of an animal. Startled he opened hiseyes and found himself in the shadow of a man, standing above him, who silently contemplated the strangeforeigner while holding a horse by a rope. Richard sat up with a jerk. <strong>The</strong> horse spooked, dragging the man almostinto the dirt. Cussing and shouting at the rearing and whinnying creature, holding onto the rope with all his might,the man ran after his horse. When he had struggled it down, he jumped into the saddle and rode off, soon only aspeck in the field to the east.And then he noticed Asya slowly walking across the expanse towards him."I had to be alone for a while," she said apologetically when she reached him. "And then I fell asleep. I am sorry tokeep you waiting so long.""I slept too," he said, "the man with the horse woke me up. Did you see him ride off into the distance? What aplace! I thought there was nobody around among these forlorn rocks. One and a quarter person per squarekilometer in this area; he must have been the one, the quarter would be invisible!" He laughed. "But you could atleast have told me when you walked off!" Wordlessly she squatted next to him. "Where do we go from here?" sheasked with a trailing voice. He rummaged in his backpack and recovered a copy of a sketchy map and the trailnotes.He read, "'Beyond Sangsang the landscape is gorgeous.' Well," he said, "gorgeous all-right, like on the moon! 'Awell-used trail leads from there to the south across low Sangsang Pay La pass, 5000 meters, to the village andchörten of Chung Riwoche. Attempt the ascent to the pass in the morning, there is no water until you are wellacross the pass.' I guess we better camp somewhere here tonight, it is late. Did you see a trace of the Raga riveron your wanderings? It's supposed to be close. We will need some water."<strong>The</strong>y found the river and a camp site at its bank and set up their tent. He filtered some water for drinking andheated a packaged soup, carefully rationing the gasoline he was burning in the collapsible stove.Night came quickly and the temperature dropped as soon as the sun had set. A sharp wind started to blow fromthe south. <strong>The</strong>y sat in the open for a while watching the stars. It was their first night alone outside the inhabitedareas around Lhasa and Shigatse.Never before had he seen a night sky like this, not above the Greek Sea, nor from the deserts of America. Amyriad of stars and the Milky Way passed like a silver-belt through them. Overwhelmed by the beauty of the skythey pointed out the constellations to each other until it became too cold to sit outside. <strong>The</strong>y crept into theirsleeping bags and fell asleep in a wink.He had noticed her first on the flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa. Her lithe figure, a beautiful, lively face underdark hair, and her purposeful yet smooth movements had intrigued him. Later she turned up at the Banak Shöl, theold Tibetan hotel in Lhasa, where he had settled. He had watched her for several days, and she knew it.Most of the time she appeared withdrawn, but she could affect a ravishing smile, which she directed at him as heasked, rather formally, because her radiance confused him, whether he could sit with her at the table in the smallrestaurant on the roof.Mesmerized, he thought self-consciously, that she must be thirty-five years younger than he. Her eyes, dark andcool looked at him with a sharp skepticism that belied her smile. <strong>The</strong>y seemed to warn him, stay away, I am not5
- Page 2 and 3: THE SNOWDANCERA Modern Tibetan Love
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"You know, who that is?" cried Asya
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Her flight swept low over Kathmandu
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half-dreams, memories of her life w
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dances. You will be enchanted." Asy
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foggy mountain passes into a land o
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down, an hour detour."Asya turned a
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you."He took her into his arms, and
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As they flew north the scenery chan
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They did not talk to each other aga
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easy to achieve. That is why a daki
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Asya was sure she saw nobody and le
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Maybe I have even tamed him too muc
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the Kundun suddenly reappears in Dh
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with Caroline, I have to give John
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John shook his head. “What is wro
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"The goal of Tibetan-Buddhist exerc
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took over. Moving very gently he ra
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Nepali god of death who is represen
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the steep northwestern approaches t
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ainbow always formed a semicircle w
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had hoped to be, but I am not. I wa
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LeahAll Perceptions are but Delusio
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Religion.”Morby mimed contrition.
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close to the houses as he could. Wh
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attention on him. Our relationship
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Spell-bound Fritz looked at this wo
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In March Drölma and Wangchuk arriv
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and Tsögyel made love in the tent?
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the naljorpa’s reincarnation. And
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Asya, foreseeing a passionate debat
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Leah was flying high. She was glued
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growing interest in speaking Englis
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parents in California. He graduated
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when he repeated the order for the
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to the Lamas, but she would deny an
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Tenzin called Lhamo, who told him t
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at Fritz who was neither enthusiast
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searched for Fritz's tall figure, a
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anuyoga, atiyoga, of which the last
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Shivaite yogi trident, emblem of th