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Trading Away Our Rights - Oxfam International

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EPORT final 19/1/04 10:19 am Page 126 ‘Monitoring labour standards throughout supply chains is asking theimpossible’Retail and brand companies are the first to claim that their long and complex supplychains are too complex to monitor. But they already achieve exacting technical, productsafety, quality, and delivery standards through those chains. And many leadingcompanies are cutting out layers of mid-chain suppliers and sourcing more directlyfrom producers. This creates the ideal opportunity for working with producers to ensurethat good labour standards are met.<strong>Oxfam</strong> and partners: campaigning to make trade fair<strong>Oxfam</strong> has worked for many years with partner organisations around the world who(often in collaboration with trade unions) support workers – mostly women – employedin global supply chains. Together we have conducted research in twelve countries,North and South, to understand the causes behind the precarious situation of theseworkers. The research, conducted in Bangladesh, China, Chile, Colombia, Honduras,Kenya, Morocco, South Africa, Sri Lanka, Thailand, the United Kingdom, and theUnited States, focused on two main sectors: garment supply chains to major clothingretailers and clothing brands, and fresh-produce supply chains to food retailers andthe fast-food industry.Many well-known retail and brand companies feature in this report. Practices varyconsiderably from company to company, and where particular companies are linkedto particular criticisms (or indeed specific good practice) we have made this clear.Generalised statements about industry practices should not, however, be taken to referto any particular company.The research documented the experiences not only of women workers, but also of theiremployers, the managers and owners of farms and factories. These latter voices arerarely reported, but understanding the supply-chain pressures that they face asproducers is essential to understand why, as employers, they hire and treat workers inthe ways that they do.In all, the research included interviews and surveys with 1,310 workers, 95 garmentfactory owners and managers, 33 farm and plantation owners and managers,48 government officials, 98 representatives of unions and non-governmentorganisations (NGOs), 52 importers, exporters, and other supply chain agents, and17 representatives of brand and retail companies. We have changed the names of all thefarm and factory workers interviewed to protect their identity, because many feared thatthey would lose their jobs for speaking out. We have also kept confidential the identityof the farm and factory managers and exporters and importers interviewed, becausemany likewise feared losing their place in the supply chains of major retailers and brands.Some staff members of retail and brand companies were also willing to be interviewedonly under conditions of anonymity.1213

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