PRAGUE - Fringe
PRAGUE - Fringe
PRAGUE - Fringe
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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°38 - 100 Kč<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>PRAGUE</strong><br />
April - May 2007<br />
The <strong>Fringe</strong><br />
Expand your horizons<br />
with this quirky festival<br />
Blossom & Beer<br />
Springtime, a wonderful<br />
time to explore Prague’s<br />
parks and gardens
www.ukonvice.cz<br />
beer restaurant<br />
Staroměstské nám. 26<br />
110 00 Praha 1<br />
tel.: +420 224 225 293<br />
U Zlaté<br />
konvice<br />
The Roman and Gothic vaults shelter<br />
In the 14th century cellars you can enjoy the taste<br />
of various kinds of grilled meat and old Czech dishes.<br />
Then wash it all down with a glass of Pilsner beer<br />
or a glass of high-quality Moravian wine.<br />
www.oceanscorner.cz Exquisite sea lagoon<br />
fish restaurant<br />
Staroměstské nám. 26<br />
110 00 Praha 1<br />
tel.: +420 221 632 252<br />
OCEANS’ CORNER - a restaurant, which will provide<br />
a genuine treat for all those who love eating all kinds of sea<br />
foods and also admire large aquariums.<br />
Enjoy the tempting variety<br />
of culinary delights in our stylish<br />
yet casual Brasserie.<br />
Brasserie Praha<br />
Opening hours<br />
Breakfast: 6.30 a.m. - 11.00 a.m.<br />
Lunch and Dinner: 12.00 a.m. - 11.00 p.m.<br />
Reservations: 222 881 212<br />
Prague Marriott Hotel<br />
V Celnici 8, Prague 1<br />
www.marriottprague.com
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Contents<br />
The Basics 8<br />
Everything you need to know<br />
Culture & Events 10<br />
Prague <strong>Fringe</strong>, Prague Spring and Wim Wenders<br />
Top 10... Parks & Gardens 18<br />
It’s not just an urban jungle out there<br />
Where to stay 20<br />
Whatever your budget or needs<br />
Dining & Nightlife 32<br />
Guláš to gourmet and anything in between<br />
The Czech menu 40<br />
Cafés & Tea houses 46<br />
It’s not all about the beer...<br />
Nightlife 48<br />
... well, maybe it is.<br />
Food & Drink around town<br />
Food & Drink in Malá Strana & The Castle 58<br />
Food & Drink in Vinohrady & Žižkov 62<br />
Food & Drink in Letná & Holešovice 67<br />
Food & Drink in Smíchov 69<br />
Adult entertainment 72<br />
The Voice and The Verse: at the <strong>Fringe</strong> 27 May - 3 June<br />
CONTENTS<br />
Khamoro Roma Festival 28 May - 2 June<br />
Sightseeing<br />
Essential sights 76<br />
The castle, the bridge, the clock<br />
Jewish Prague 80<br />
Kafka, Josefov, synagogues and cemeteries<br />
Getting around 82<br />
Planes, trains and automobiles<br />
Mail & Phones 87<br />
How to send a gift or just call home<br />
Directory<br />
Shopping 88<br />
Business 90<br />
Healthcare & Sports 92<br />
Maps & Index<br />
Street index 93<br />
Country map 93<br />
City centre map 95<br />
City map 96-97<br />
Index 98<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
April - May 2007<br />
5
6<br />
FOREWORD<br />
Prague enjoyed an early spring with some<br />
unseasonable March madness followed swiftly<br />
by a dose of snow. April and May however are<br />
true spring months with the opening of parks and<br />
gardens, the welcome return of beer gardens, and<br />
the emergence of countless pavement terraces.<br />
For a complete lowdown on where to enjoy the<br />
greenery, see our inaugural Top 10 list of Parks &<br />
Gardens on page 18. May Day (1 May) should be<br />
spent among the beautiful blossoms on Petřín Hill.<br />
Not just a season, Prague Spring is a renowned<br />
international classical music festival where the<br />
already high standards set by the likes of Mozart<br />
and Smetana long ago are honoured with a season<br />
of superlative concerts. Events and cultural listing<br />
begin on page 10. The Prague <strong>Fringe</strong> Festival<br />
is a mere youngster compared to Edinburgh, but,<br />
as A. A. Milne once wrote, “now we are six”. The<br />
incomparable sixth year of mayhem begins at the<br />
end of May and just a few of the highlights can be<br />
seen on page 17.<br />
The landmark TV Tower on the border of Vinohrady<br />
and Žižkov (see page 81) celebrates its 15th<br />
birthday this year. For superb vistas over the<br />
immaculately laid out courtyards of residential<br />
Prague, hop in a lift and enjoy the view and the<br />
vertigo… An added bonus would be drinks or dinner<br />
Cover story<br />
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
V Jámě 1, Praha 1, 110 00<br />
Czech Republic<br />
tel. +420 224 94 76 01<br />
fax +420 224 94 86 51<br />
prague@inyourpocket.com<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1213-2128<br />
© PIYP s.r.o.<br />
Printed by Tisk Horák,<br />
Ústí nad Labem<br />
Published six times per year<br />
16,000 copies<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Valdštejnský palác or Wallenstein<br />
Palace sits prettily below the<br />
castle and in the middle of an<br />
idyllic oasis with a lake, peacocks,<br />
owls and beautiful manicured<br />
lawns and hedges in Malá Strana.<br />
The Wallenstein Gardens are<br />
one of our Top 10... Parks &<br />
Gardens. Discover Prague’s<br />
green spaces on page 18.<br />
Editorial<br />
Editor Wendy Wrangham<br />
Contributors Wendy Wrangham,<br />
Jeroen van Marle<br />
Researcher Štěpán Sedláček<br />
Layout & Design Tomáš Haman<br />
Photos Jeroen van Marle,<br />
Tomáš Haman, Wendy Wrangham,<br />
Ursula Schulz, Robin Divila,<br />
Ivana Ratajová<br />
Cover: Valdštejnský palác<br />
© iStockphoto, photomorgana<br />
Sales & Circulation<br />
General Manager Michal Jareš<br />
Sales & Circulation Manager<br />
Ivana Ratajová<br />
ivana@inyourpocket.com<br />
Publisher Craig Turp<br />
A word from our Mayor<br />
Welcome to the city<br />
that will amaze you with<br />
its peerless genius loci,<br />
fascinating architecture,<br />
abundant cultural and social<br />
life and its unparalleled<br />
atmosphere. These are<br />
not any pompous words<br />
of a pretentious mayor but<br />
evaluations of the visitors<br />
who have seen Prague<br />
before you. Thanks to this fact our metropolis belongs<br />
among the most visited ones in Europe.<br />
Enjoy your stay in a historic jewel hidden in the heart of<br />
Europe and at the same time in a modern and dynamically<br />
developing city. I am convinced that you will appreciate this<br />
unique symbiosis just like all your predecessors.<br />
Welcome to Prague!<br />
Pavel Bém<br />
Mayor of the City of Prague<br />
during the full moon (2 April & 2 May). Another<br />
anniversary Prague is proud to celebrate is the end<br />
of WWII on 8 May: a convoy of American jeeps with<br />
full-regalia-clad occupants blaze their patriotic way<br />
around Wenceslas Square and the city.<br />
Easter comes to Prague with an abundance of<br />
stalls opening on the central squares from 24 Mar<br />
- 15 Apr where you can buy the usual knickknacks<br />
and beautifully hand-painted Easter eggs.<br />
The Khamoro Festival, a fantastically diverse<br />
World Roma Festival runs 28 May - 2 June. See<br />
www.khamoro.cz for programme listings.<br />
As ever, any rants, errors or praise should be<br />
emailed to prague@inyourpocket.com and don’t<br />
forget to plan ahead for your holidays with our<br />
online Click & Buy service and get any In Your<br />
Pocket title mailed direct to your door.<br />
Copyright notice<br />
Text and photos copyright PIYP s.r.o.<br />
2000-2007. Maps copyright<br />
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part<br />
of this publication may be reproduced<br />
in any form, except brief extracts for<br />
the purpose of review, without written<br />
permission from the publisher and<br />
copyright owner. The brand name In Your<br />
Pocket is used under license from UAB<br />
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,<br />
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).<br />
Editor’s note<br />
The editorial content of In Your Pocket<br />
guides is independent from paid-for<br />
advertising. Sponsored listings are<br />
clearly marked as such. We welcome all<br />
readers‘ comments and suggestions.<br />
We have made every effort to ensure<br />
the accuracy of the information at the<br />
time of going to press and assume no<br />
responsibility for changes and errors.
8 BASICS<br />
Arriving in Prague<br />
By plane<br />
Prague’s airport is 20km from the city centre. A taxi to<br />
the town centre has just risen to around 600Kč even if you<br />
call a company to pick you up rather than take one from<br />
outside the terminal - reputable AAA have representatives<br />
in the arrivals hall now. Alternatively, use the ČEDAZ<br />
minibus service (tel. 220 11 42 96, 05:30 - 21:30) that<br />
runs every half hour between the airport and Náměstí<br />
Republiky (F-2). Tickets cost 90Kč (including one piece<br />
of baggage, children under 10 free) and can be bought<br />
from the driver or from the booth in the arrival terminal.<br />
For an extra fee, ČEDAZ can also pick you up or drop you<br />
off at your hotel.<br />
The cheapest way to get into town is on by bus: N°119<br />
(2-8 times per hour between 04:18 and 00:10 with at<br />
least one wheelchair-friendly bus per hour) runs between<br />
the airport and the Dejvická metro station (Line A, green)<br />
in about 20 minutes. From Dejvická it is just five stops to<br />
Muzeum in the centre of town. Bus N°100 whisks you to<br />
Zličín (metro Line B, yellow) from the airport in 13 minutes.<br />
There is a new Airport Express (AE) bus from Holešovice<br />
which runs every half an hour, whizzing you across the city in<br />
half an hour, whether you are arriving or departing. Special<br />
fares apply to this bus, tickets can only be bought from<br />
the driver and do not allow any transfers or other forms of<br />
transport. Tickets are 45/25Kč, dogs 25Kč and luggage<br />
is free. First & last buses from Holešovice 05:15 & 21:45,<br />
from the airport 04:40 & 21:10.<br />
A 20Kč transport ticket (plus a 10Kč one for big bags)<br />
will get you all the way into town or to the airport on all<br />
public transport except the Airport Express. Tickets can<br />
be bought at the friendly transport information desk in<br />
both arrival halls (open 07:00 - 22:00) or from the coinoperated<br />
machine at the airport bus stop, but not from<br />
the driver. You need to validate the ticket (once for the<br />
whole trip) in the machines on board the bus.<br />
Prague’s new Terminal North 2 will allow for at least 4<br />
million more passengers a year to travel into Prague with<br />
the ability to continue expansion. New bars, restaurants,<br />
shops and services ply their trade in this terminal which<br />
accommodates flights to and from Schengen countries.<br />
There is a left luggage facilty at the airport which doesn’t<br />
close and costs 60Kč per item per day.<br />
By train<br />
Prague has two main railway stations. Praha Hlavní<br />
nádraží (tel. 224 61 52 49) is architecturally fabulous (in<br />
the Jugendstil tradition) although you won’t know it until<br />
you exit its underground nightmare. There is a tourist<br />
office (open 09:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00) in<br />
the centre of the lower hall of the two levels. Currency exchange<br />
offices abound, but for a better deal, use the ATM<br />
on the far left of the lower hall. Left luggage (úschova)<br />
requirements are filled by coin-operated lockers (10Kč<br />
/24hrs) and a guarded luggage depository opposite<br />
(closed for 30 minutes from 05:30, 12:00 and 17:30).<br />
Getting to town involves one stop on the metro to Muzeum<br />
or a dangerous walk up busy Wilsonova. The other station,<br />
Praha Holešovice (tel. 224 61 58 65), is used by trains<br />
on the main Berlin Vienna/Bratislava route. The small hall<br />
holds the ticket office (open 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sat,<br />
Sun), left luggage lockers, an internet café and several exchange<br />
and accommodation offices (open 06:00 - 23:00).<br />
It is three stops on the metro to Muzeum. For multilingual<br />
service, avoid the queues at the station counters and<br />
buy your train ticket at Wasteels or at the ČR agency.<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Market values<br />
How do costs compare to back home? Here’s a handy<br />
list to see where the buck stops.<br />
McDonald’s Big Mac 56Kč €2.00 $2.60 £1.40<br />
Loaf of white bread 18Kč €0.60 $0.80 £0.40<br />
Snickers bar 12Kč €0.40 $0.55 £0.30<br />
Litre of vodka 140Kč €5.00 $6.50 £3.40<br />
Bottle of local beer<br />
(1/2 litre) 12Kč €0.40 $0.55 £0.30<br />
20 Marlboros 66Kč €2.40 $3.00 £1.60<br />
Public transport ticket 20Kč €0.70 $0.90 £0.50<br />
Cinema ticket 160Kč €5.80 $7.50 £3.90<br />
Dry-cleaning one men’s<br />
shirt 55Kč €2.00 $2.55 £1.30<br />
Roll of Kodak 200 speed film, 24 exposures<br />
105Kč €3.80 $5.00 £2.55<br />
Exchange rates: €1 - 28.30Kč, US$1 - 21.50Kč,<br />
£1 - 41.30 Kč on 12.03.2007.<br />
Public transport<br />
Prague’s public transport system (Dopravní podnik) is<br />
efficient, fast and reasonably clean. With three metro<br />
lines, 26 tram routes and 9 night trams you won’t need<br />
the bus routes that avoid the centre. Keep in mind that<br />
the centre of Prague is easily accessible on foot. Tickets,<br />
valid for all means of transport, can be purchased from the<br />
numerous vending machines at all metro stations, major<br />
tram stops and news stands. You always need to validate<br />
your ticket yourself by stamping it in the machines at<br />
metro entrances and on trams. The most common ticket<br />
is the 20Kč transfer ticket, which is valid for 75 minutes<br />
(90 minutes between 22:00 and 05:00, on weekends<br />
and public holidays). The 14Kč non-transfer ticket is<br />
meant for tram rides under 20 minutes with no changes,<br />
or in the metro for up to 5 stations (changes allowed) from<br />
the departure station within 30 minutes. We suggest you<br />
save yourself time by buying a handful of these on arrival.<br />
If you’re planning to stay a bit and explore, get the oneday<br />
pass (80Kč), a three-day pass (220Kč), a weekly<br />
pass (280Kč) or a 15-day pass (320Kč). Children under<br />
6 travel free; and tickets are half price up to 15 years old.<br />
Large pieces of luggage (including rucksacks) cost an<br />
extra 10Kč while dogs ride the rails for 20Kč. Fines for<br />
no validated tickets are 500Kč if paid on the spot or pay<br />
1,000Kč later. The funicular railway and night tram<br />
tickets are 20Kč. Trams trundle around town every few<br />
minutes; useful lines are N°22 and 23 which run from the<br />
centre up to the rear entrance of the castle, saving you<br />
the uphill walk. The metro connects the two main train<br />
stations and Florenc bus station to the centre and runs<br />
up to just after midnight, when the night trams take<br />
over, zipping in all directions from the Lazarská stop (H-5)<br />
every half hour. Tram information is on the red signs at<br />
each stop and is correct assuming of course that some<br />
worn out Škoda hasn’t died on the tram lines. Beware<br />
of Prague’s ultra-professional pickpockets, especially<br />
on trams N°22 and 23 and in busy metro cars. For more<br />
information visit the excellent website with English and<br />
German information on routes and schedules, at www.<br />
dpp.cz, or call 222 62 37 77.<br />
Need some direction?<br />
Travel Information Centre I-5, MMuzeum, tel.<br />
296 19 18 17, www.dpp.cz. All you ever wanted to<br />
know about routes, tariffs, tickets, timetables, re-routings<br />
and service disruptions, maps and general information<br />
about Prague’s bus, tram and metro system from friendly,<br />
multi-lingual folk. Apart from the airport offices, these<br />
are found at the metro stations.QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.<br />
Also at E-4, Můstek, Jungmannovo nám., open 07:00<br />
- 18:00, closed Sat & Sun; Anděl, open 07:00 - 18:00,<br />
closed Sat & Sun; Prague Airport terminals 1 & 2, open<br />
07:00 - 22:00.<br />
Learning the language<br />
Numbers<br />
1 jeden (m)/jedna (f)<br />
2 dva (m)/dvě (f)<br />
3 tři<br />
4 čtyři<br />
5 pět<br />
6 šest<br />
7 sedm<br />
8 osm<br />
9 devět<br />
10 deset<br />
Days<br />
Monday pondělí<br />
Tuesday úterý<br />
Wednesday středa<br />
Thursday čtvrtek<br />
Friday pátek<br />
Saturday sobota<br />
Sunday neděle<br />
Basics<br />
Yes ano<br />
No ne<br />
Please/you’re welcome prosím<br />
Thank you (very much) děkuji<br />
Excuse me omluvte mě<br />
Sorry promiňte<br />
Hello dobrý den<br />
Goodbye nashledanou<br />
I would like... rád/ráda bych...<br />
Where is... kde je...<br />
Street Smarts<br />
Ulice street (ul.),<br />
but not usually used in an address<br />
Most bridge<br />
Náměstí square (nám.)<br />
Schody steps<br />
Brány gates<br />
Nábřeží quay<br />
National holidays<br />
Signs<br />
Open otevřeno<br />
Closed zavřeno<br />
Entrance vchod<br />
Exit východ<br />
Push tam<br />
Pull sem<br />
Arrival příjezd (train)<br />
přílet (plane)<br />
Departure odjezd (train)<br />
odlet (plane)<br />
No smoking zde nekuřte<br />
zákaz kouření<br />
Men’s toilets páni/muži<br />
Ladies toilets dámy/ženy<br />
9 Apr Easter Monday<br />
1 May Labour day<br />
8 May Day of Liberation from Fascism (end of WWII)<br />
CZ: A brief history<br />
BASICS<br />
4th Century<br />
The present day Czech Republic was populated by Celts<br />
and it was the Celtic Boii tribe who gave the country its<br />
Latin name, Boiohaemum (Bohemia).<br />
6th Century<br />
The first Slavs travel from the east to the Prague area.<br />
7th Century<br />
According to legend a princess named Libuše marries<br />
a ploughman and founds the Premysl dynasty. She<br />
prophesies that a great city will rise above the banks<br />
of the Vltava.<br />
10th Century<br />
Václav I, misleadingly later to be called the Good King<br />
Wenceslas in the Christmas carol, is murdered by his<br />
brother Boleslav. He becomes the country’s patron saint<br />
and his feast day is celebrated on 28 Sept.<br />
14th Century<br />
In 1346 Charles IV is crowned King of Bohemia, and in<br />
1348 he founds Charles University in Prague, the first<br />
university in the Holy Roman Empire. Prague becomes the<br />
largest city in Europe, with 40,000-50,000 inhabitants.<br />
15th Century<br />
On 6 July, 1415 the protestant reformer Jan Hus is burnt<br />
at the stake. He becomes a martyr for the nationalist and<br />
Protestant movement that adopts his name.<br />
16th Century<br />
In 1526 the Hapsburg Duke Ferdinand I is elected as<br />
King of Bohemia. The dynasty will rule the Czech lands<br />
until 1918.<br />
20th Century<br />
28 Oct, 1918 Following the defeat of Germany and<br />
Austria, the Empire dissolves into several national states<br />
and, Czechoslovakia finally becomes an independent<br />
republic. Tomáš Masaryk becomes its first president.<br />
15 Mar, 1939 The Wehrmacht invades and turns the<br />
Czech lands and Moravia into a protectorate, while Slovakia<br />
becomes an independent fascist state.<br />
5 May, 1945 The Prague Uprising. Five thousand die in<br />
four days of fierce fighting as the Czechs fight the Nazis<br />
for the city. Prague is finally liberated by the Soviets.<br />
Feb 1948 Assisted by the Soviet Army, the Czech Communist<br />
party takes power. The country will remain under<br />
the Soviet sphere of influence until 1989.<br />
Prague Spring 1968 Communist Party chairman Alexander<br />
Dubček makes efforts to establish “Socialism with<br />
a human face”. This includes releasing political prisoners<br />
and relaxing press censorship. His liberal ideals are<br />
brutally repressed by the invasion of Warsaw pact troops<br />
on the night of 20 Aug, 1968. In protest at the invasion<br />
21 year old philosophy student Jan Palach sets himself<br />
alight on the steps of the National Museum.<br />
19 Nov, 1989 The Velvet Revolution 200,000 people demand<br />
democracy in a demonstration in Wenceslas Square.<br />
As crowds swell, the government gives in, and in 1990<br />
former dissident Václav Havel is elected head of state.<br />
31 Dec, 1992 Dubbed The Velvet Divorce, Czechoslovakia<br />
divides into two independent states, Slovakia and<br />
the Czech Republic.<br />
21st Century<br />
Aug 2002 Floods devastate the country and cause chaos<br />
and millions of crowns of damage as the Vltava rises.<br />
1 May, 2004 The Czech Republic joins the European Union.<br />
1 Aug, 2004 A grenade is thrown at an Israeli casino<br />
owner on Na Příkopě; 18 people are injured.<br />
16 Mar, 2004 Tram N°22 derails on Karlovo nám. and<br />
ploughs into a crowd at a tram stop, killing two people.<br />
April - May 2007<br />
9
10 CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
Entertainment abounds in the city and our listings are by<br />
no means comprehensive. Listen, look, explore and check<br />
www.prague.tv for daily events.<br />
Black Light Theatre<br />
All Colours Theatre E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 31,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 221 61 01 73, www.blacktheatre.cz.<br />
Tickets 450Kč. Q Performances start at 20:30.<br />
Animato F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10, MMůstek, tel.<br />
281 93 26 65, www.volny.cz/black.theatre. Tickets<br />
430Kč. Q Performances start at 20:30.<br />
Image Black Theatre E-1, Praha 1, Pařížská 4,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 31 44 58, www.imagetheatre.<br />
cz. Tickets 400Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00.<br />
Jiří Srnec Black Light Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Národní<br />
20, tel. 721 58 92 44, www.blacktheatresrnec.cz. Tickets<br />
520Kč. Q Performances start at 19:30.<br />
Metro Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 25, MNárodní<br />
třída, tel. 221 08 52 76, www.blacktheatreprague.cz.<br />
Tickets 440Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00.<br />
Palace Theatre I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 43,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 224 22 88 14. Tickets 140 - 340Kč. Q<br />
Performances start at 20:00.<br />
Ta Fantastika D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 8, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 22 13 66, www.tafantastika.cz. Tickets 700Kč.<br />
Q Performances start at 21:30.<br />
WOW Show I-4, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 31, MMůstek, tel.<br />
777 08 39 44, www.wow-show.com. Tickets 550Kč. Q<br />
Performances start at 20:00.<br />
Cinema<br />
Aero Praha 3, Biskupcova 31, tel. 271 77 13 49, www.<br />
kinoaero.cz. A cool little arthouse cinema in Žižkov; tram N°9<br />
to Biskupcova. Q Tickets 40 - 95Kč.<br />
Cinema City Flóra Praha 3, Vinohradská 149, MFlóra,<br />
tel. 255 74 20 21, www.cinemacity.cz. Includes an IMAX<br />
theatre. Q Tickets 159Kč, Tue 109Kč. Also at Galaxie,<br />
Arkalycká 1; Zličín, Řevnická 1.<br />
Lucerna I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, MMůstek, tel. 224<br />
21 69 72, www.multikino.cz. Apparently the longest-running<br />
cinema in Prague.<br />
Palace Cinemas Slovanský Dům F-3, Praha 1, Na<br />
Příkopě 22, tel. 257 18 12 12, www.palacecinemas.cz.<br />
Popular city-centre multiplex, which is often the only cinema<br />
with English language versions of films other cinemas show<br />
dubbed. Q Tickets 159Kč, Wed 109Kč. Also at Letňany,<br />
Veselská 663; Nový Smíchov, Plzeňská 8; Park Hostivař,<br />
Švehlova 32.<br />
Světozor I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 41, MMůstek, tel.<br />
224 94 75 66, www.kinosvetozor.cz. An arthouse<br />
cinema showing classic, current and less mainstream movies,<br />
plus Czech movies with English subtitles. Q Tickets<br />
100/50Kč.<br />
Village Cinemas Anděl Praha 5, Radlická 1E, MAnděl,<br />
tel. 251 11 51 11, www.villagecinemas.cz. Another<br />
cinema complex, this one has an European art house cinema<br />
and Gold Class, where you sit in armchairs and can eat and<br />
drink to your heart’s content. Q Tickets 159Kč, Mon 109Kč.<br />
Also at Village Cinemas Černý most.<br />
Puppet theatre<br />
Říše loutek D-2, Praha 1, Žatecká 1, tel. 222 32 45<br />
65, www.riseloutek.cz.<br />
Divadlo Minor I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 6, tel. 222 23<br />
17 02, www.minor.cz.<br />
National Marionette Theatre D-2, Praha 1, Žatecká<br />
1, tel. 224 81 93 22, www.mozart.cz.<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Concerts & Opera<br />
Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Křižovnická 2. The beautiful<br />
building is home to some good classical music concerts.<br />
1, 15, 22 & 29 Apr: Fenix Quartet<br />
3, 10, 17 & 24 Apr: Baroque Organ Concert, Dana<br />
Kosinová-Vachtová<br />
4 - 9 Apr at 18:00 & 20:00: Easter Concerts<br />
11 & 18 Apr: Intermezzo with Chopin & Liszt, Sára Bukowská<br />
- piano<br />
12, 19 & 26 Apr: Barocco, Vladimír Koval - tenor, Pavel<br />
Vaněk - piano<br />
13 Apr: Baroque Organ Concert, Dana Kosinová-Vachtová<br />
- organ, Jan Berko - contratenor<br />
14 & 28 Apr: The Best of Dvorak & Mozart, Liana Sass<br />
- soprano, Sára Bukowská - piano<br />
20 Apr: Baroque Organ Concert, Sára Bukowská - organ,<br />
Ivo Michl - tenor<br />
21 Apr: The Best of Dvorak & Mozart, Liana Sass - soprano,<br />
Natalie Korotková - piano<br />
25 Apr: Intermezzo with Chopin & Liszt, Zdenek Klauda<br />
- piano<br />
27 Apr: Baroque Organ Concert, Dana Kosinová-Vachtová<br />
- organ, Oleg Korotkov - bassQ Performances start at 18:00<br />
unless otherwise specified.<br />
Municipal House F-3, Praha 1, Nám. Republiky 5, tel.<br />
222 00 21 21, www.obecni-dum.cz. The stunning Art Nouveau<br />
Obecní dům is the venue for many classical concerts. Q<br />
Booking office open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 200 - 1,300Kč.<br />
State Opera I-4, Praha 1, Wilsonova 4, tel. 224 22 72<br />
66, www.opera.cz. Operas are usually performed in the<br />
original language, with Czech or English subtitles.Q Booking<br />
office open 10:00 - 17:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00<br />
- 17:30. Tickets 100 - 1150Kč.<br />
Stavovské divadlo E-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 1, tel. 224<br />
22 85 03, www.narodni-divadlo.cz. Where Mozart’s Don<br />
Giovanni made its rapturous debut. Q Booking office open<br />
10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 30 - 1,000Kč.<br />
Theatre<br />
Divadlo Alfred ve dvoře I-1, Praha 7, Fr. Křížka 36, tel.<br />
233 37 69 97, www.alfredvedvore.cz.<br />
Divadlo Hybernia F-3, Praha 1, nam. Republiky 4, tel.<br />
221 41 94 12, www.divadlo-broadway.cz.<br />
Divadlo Ponec Praha 3, Husitská 24, tel. 222 72 15<br />
31, www.divadloponec.cz.<br />
Laterna Magika C-4, Praha 1, Národní 4, tel. 222 22<br />
20 41, www.laterna.cz.<br />
National Theatre C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 2, tel.<br />
224 90 16 68, www.narodni-divadlo.cz.<br />
The Duncan Centre Conservatory Praha 4, Branická<br />
41, tel. 244 46 13 42, www.duncanct.cz.<br />
Tickets<br />
Bohemia Ticket International F-3, Praha 1, Na<br />
Příkopě 16, tel. 224 21 50 31, www.ticketsbti.cz.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 -<br />
15:00. Also at (E-3) Praha 1, Malé nám. A<br />
Ticket Art I-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 9, tel. 222<br />
89 75 52, www.ticket-art.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Ticketpro E-3, Praha 1, Rytířská 12, tel. 296 32 99<br />
99, www.ticketpro.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Ticketstream I-6, Praha 2, Koubkova 8, tel. 224 26<br />
30 49, www.ticketstream.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Classical Music<br />
Date Time Event Venue<br />
April<br />
2 19:30 Pražák Quartet: B. Krajný - Piano RF<br />
3 19:30 Prague Baroque Ensemble RF<br />
3 20:30 Vivaldi Orchestra Praga:<br />
The Four Seasons MH<br />
4,13 20:30 Virtuosi Pragenses Orchestra.<br />
W.A. Mozart - Requiem MH<br />
5,6 19:30 Czech Philharmonic Orchestra:<br />
J. Haydn RF<br />
6 19:00 Easter Concert: B.Martinů ET<br />
7 19:30 Coral San Miguel: V. Nikolova - Organ,<br />
J.L. Lizarraga - Choirmaster MW<br />
7 20:00 Dvořák Symphony Orchestra:<br />
B. Smetana MH<br />
9 17:00 Vivaldi Orchestra Praga:<br />
The Four Seasons MH<br />
10 19:30 Czech Chamber Orchestra RF<br />
11, 13 20:00 Czech Collegium: M. Ravel, G. Bizet MH<br />
12,13 19:30 Czech Philharmonic Orchestra:<br />
A. Dvořák RF<br />
12 19:30 Prague Symphony Orchestra:<br />
L. Van Beethoven MH<br />
17 19:30 Pražák Quartet: J. Haydn RF<br />
17,18 19:30 Prague Symphony Orchestra:<br />
Toru Takemitsu MH<br />
19 20:00 Chamber Orchestra Of Pardubice RF<br />
21 17:00 Chamber Philharmonie Bohemia:<br />
W.A. Mozart MH<br />
21 19:30 Alexej Lubimov - Piano: F. Schubert,<br />
L. Van Beethoven, J.L. Dusík RF<br />
22 17:00 Virtuosi Pragenses Orchestra:<br />
W.A. Mozart MH<br />
23 20:30 Virtuosi Pragenses Orchestra:<br />
W.A. Mozart MH<br />
24 20:00 Virtuosi Pragenses Orchestra:<br />
W.A. Mozart - Requiem RF<br />
24 20:30 Beethoven Orchestra Praga: L. Van<br />
Beethoven, J.S. Bach, J. Haydn, W.A. Mozart, A. Dvořák MH<br />
25 17:30 Janáček Trio: A. Schnitke RF<br />
25 19:30 Czech National Symphony Orchestra:<br />
A. Dvořák RF<br />
26 20:00 Bohemian String Orchestra: A.Vivaldi MH<br />
27 17:00 Organ Concert MH<br />
27 20:00 Requiem - W.A. Mozart MH<br />
28 20:00 North Czech Philharmonic Orchestra:<br />
Conductor - E. Hoetzl RF<br />
May<br />
1,4,8,11,15,18,22,25,29<br />
20:00 Orig. Music Theatre Prague: A. Dvořák VI<br />
3,4 19:30 Czech Philharmonic Orchestra:<br />
G. Mahler RF<br />
6 17:00 Philharmonic Orchestra Plzeň:<br />
Honegger - Jeanne D’Arc Au Bucher RF<br />
27 20:00 Philharmonic Orchestra Hradec Králové:<br />
C. Orff - Carmina Burana MH<br />
Opera<br />
April<br />
3,13,21,24 17:00<br />
Mozartissimo - The Best Selection Of<br />
Mozart Opera: Die Zauberflote, Don Giovanni, Entfuhrung<br />
Aus Dem Serail, Le Nozze Di Figaro ET<br />
3 19:00 Opera 2007 SO<br />
3 19:00 The Secret NT<br />
4,28 19:00 Madama Butterfly SO<br />
CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
English language theatre<br />
Švandovo divadlo Praha 5, Štefánikova 57, tel. 234<br />
65 11 11, www.svandovodivadlo.cz. The Švandovo<br />
theatre has contemporary and classic plays with English<br />
subtitles. The text is projected above the stage, so get<br />
tickets for the back of the ground floor or on the balcony.<br />
Find the theatre just across the river from the National<br />
Theatre; tram N°9 to the Švandovo divadlo stop.<br />
2 Apr: Anton Chekhov’s Uncle Vanya<br />
4 Apr: Petr Sís’ Tibet Through The Red Box from The<br />
Cakes and Puppets (for adults)<br />
10 Apr: Martin McDonagh’s The Lieutenant of Inishmore<br />
11 Apr: Anton Chekhov’s Uncle Vanya<br />
12 Apr: David Farr’s Elton John’s Glasses<br />
15 Apr: Moliére’s School for Wives<br />
16 Apr: Martin McDonagh’s The Lieutenant of Inishmore<br />
17 Apr: Václav Havel’s The Beggar’s Opera<br />
17 Apr: Petr Sís’ Tibet Through The Red Box by The<br />
Cakes and Puppets (for adults)<br />
18 Apr: Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream<br />
19 Apr: František Langer’s Periphery<br />
23 Apr: Václav Havel’s The Beggar’s Opera<br />
23 Apr: Sir A.C. Doyle’s The Hound of Baskervilles by The<br />
Cakes and Puppet s (for adults)<br />
26 Apr: Anton Chekhov’s Uncle Vanya<br />
27 Apr: František Langer’s Periphery<br />
28 Apr: Moliére’s School for Wives<br />
29 Apr: The The Magnificent Seven by The Cakes and<br />
Puppets (for adults)<br />
2 May: Václav Havel’s The Beggar’s Opera<br />
3 May: Anton Chekhov’s Uncle Vanya<br />
4 May: David Farr’s Elton John’s Glasses<br />
9 & 10 May: Pulcinella’s War, Commedia dell´arte from<br />
Antonio Fava<br />
12 May: Bombs, Money & Love, Commedia dell´arte from<br />
Antonio Fava at 11:00<br />
13 May: Bombs, Money & Love, Commedia dell´arte from<br />
Antonio Fava **Opening Night**<br />
14 - 17 May: Bombs, Money & Love, Commedia dell´arte<br />
from Antonio Fava<br />
17 May: Moliére’s School for Wives<br />
18 May: Martin McDonagh’s The Lieutenant of Inishmore<br />
21 May: Bombs, Money & Love, Commedia dell´arte<br />
from Antonio Fava<br />
22 May: Václav Havel’s The Beggar’s Opera at 11:00<br />
& 19:00<br />
23 May: David Farr’s Elton John’s Glasses<br />
24 May: František Langer’s Periphery at 11:00 &<br />
19:00<br />
25 May: Anton Chekhov’s Uncle Vanya<br />
27 May: Dulsori: Ritual Drummers from South Korea<br />
28 May: Mariana Sadovska: To Sing To Remember<br />
29 May: Sclavi: The Song of the Emigrant by Farm in<br />
the Cave<br />
30 May: Moliére’s School for Wives<br />
31 May: Bombs, Money & Love, Commedia dell´arte<br />
from Antonio Fava<br />
27 - 31 May: Farm in the Cave Festival 2007.<br />
See website for details.<br />
Performances begin at 19:00 unless stated otherwise.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
April - May 2007<br />
11
12<br />
CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
5,14 19:00 Nabucco SO<br />
6,26 19:00 La Traviata SO<br />
6 19:00 Tosca NT<br />
7,15 19:00 Carmen SO<br />
8,20 19:00 Aida SO<br />
English language theatre<br />
Divadlo Archa J-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26, tel. 221 71<br />
61 11, fax 221 716 666, www.archatheatre.cz. Host<br />
of the annual Alternativa Festival, Archa is known in some<br />
quarters as the “alternative National Theatre” for Prague,<br />
and while it is inherently a Czech venue, Archa is English<br />
friendly, with subtitles and physical performances that<br />
transcend language barriers. Their monthly programmes<br />
gives a percentage score for English-speakers to decide<br />
whether the performance is worth attending. Archa also<br />
hosts some of the city’s quirkier musical offerings, such<br />
as The White Stripes and Tiger Lillies.<br />
1 Apr at 20:00<br />
Understand: acrobatics, dance, physical theatre and live<br />
music. 100% - no lang. barrier<br />
3 Apr at 17:30<br />
Tarantula Passionata: traditional dance and music from<br />
S. Italy. 100% - no lang. barrier<br />
11 Apr at 20:00<br />
SKUTR and Rosťa Novák: 8 - Birds Black, Tits Great:<br />
puppetry and acrobatics by a descendant of the most<br />
famous family in Czech puppetry and circus. 60%<br />
13 Apr at 20:00<br />
DREAMING.ANDERSEN: tales of H.C. Andersen’s road to<br />
fame with live music from composer Michal Nejtek and<br />
Czech hip hoppers. 60%<br />
15 Apr at 20:00<br />
Kristýna Lhotákova & Ladislav Soukup: Hansel & Gretel:<br />
young dancers examine childhood and youth. 100%<br />
16 & 17 Apr at 20:00<br />
Nickname: examines the phenomenon of internet chat.<br />
50%<br />
18 & 19 Apr at 20:00<br />
Yasunari Tamai & Vladimír Javorský: Don Quixote of<br />
Hakushu: new wave Japanese theatre with featuring a<br />
modern butó dancer. 100%<br />
22 Apr at 20:00<br />
Chat: Dangerously Easy Liaisons: also examines the<br />
phenomenon of internet chat. 50%<br />
24 Apr at 20:00<br />
Michal Prokop & Framus Five: Czech rhythm and blues.<br />
100%<br />
27 Apr at 20:00<br />
Lisa Gerrard: one half of the cult Australian group Dead<br />
Can Dance. 100%<br />
14 & 15 May at 20:00<br />
Berlin Reloaded Festival: Fear Lab Berlin. 100%<br />
19 & 20 May at 20:00<br />
4+4 Days in Motion Festival: Superamas (FR/AT): Big<br />
3rd Episode. 100%<br />
21 May at 20:00<br />
Tiger Lillies, Alexander Hacke, Danielle de Piccioto: Mountains<br />
of Madness. 100%<br />
23 & 24 May at 20:00<br />
4+4 Days in Motion Festival: Motus (IT): Rumore Rosa.<br />
100% 25 May at 20:00<br />
4+4 Days in Motion Festival: Nigel Charnock (UK): Frank.<br />
100% 29 & 30 May at 20:00<br />
Berlin Reloaded Festival: Constanza Macras & Dorky Park<br />
(D): I Am Not the Only One. 100%<br />
Q PTAEGKW<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
8 19:00 La Clemenza Di Tito ET<br />
10 19:00 Don Giovanni ET<br />
12,21 19:00 Rigoletto SO<br />
13 19:00 Tosca SO<br />
13 19:00 Rusalka NT<br />
15 13:00 Die Zauberflote ET<br />
15 19:00 Le Nozze Di Figaro ET<br />
18,25 19:00 Lucia Di Lammermoor SO<br />
18 19:00 Die Zauberflote ET<br />
19 19:00 Il Barbiere Di Seviglia SO<br />
24,30 19:00 The Walk Worthwhile NT<br />
25 19:00 Carmen NT<br />
27 19:00 Die Zauberflote SO<br />
27 19:00 Samson Et Dalila NT<br />
28 14:00 Don Giovanni ET<br />
May<br />
1,13 19:00 Rusalka SO<br />
2,15,30 17:00 Mozartissimo - The Best Selection Of<br />
Mozart Operas: Die Zauberflote, Don Giovanni, Entfuhrung<br />
Aus Dem Serail, Le Nozze Di Figaro ET<br />
2,15 19:00 Madama Butterfly SO<br />
3,27 19:00 Tosca SO<br />
4 16:30 Mozartissimo - The Best Selection Of<br />
Mozart Operas: Die Zauberflote, Don Giovanni, Entfuhrung<br />
Aus Dem Serail, Le Nozze Di Figaro ET<br />
4,12,30 19:00 La Traviata SO<br />
4,7 19:00 La Fanciulla Del West NT<br />
5,26 19:00 Nabucco SO<br />
5,6 19:00 Orfeo ET<br />
6,31 19:00 Carmen SO<br />
8 19:00 Turandot SO<br />
8 19:00 Libuše NT<br />
9 20:00 La Traviata SO<br />
10 19:00 Don Pasquale ET<br />
11 19:00 Rigoletto SO<br />
11,22 19:00 The Greek Passion NT<br />
12 11.00 The Devil And Kate NT<br />
12 19:00 Samson Et Dalila NT<br />
13 14:00 Rusalka SO<br />
15 19:00 Rusalka NT<br />
16,20 19:00 Le Nozze Di Figaro ET<br />
17,19,24 19:00 Manon Lescaut SO<br />
17 19:00 The Secret NT<br />
18 19:00 Die Zauberflote SO<br />
18 19:00 Don Giovanni ET<br />
20 13:00 Die Zauberflote ET<br />
20 14:00 Il Barbiere Di Seviglia SO<br />
23 19:00 Lucia Di Lammermoor SO<br />
25 19:00 Aida SO<br />
25 19:00 La Clemenza Di Tito ET<br />
26 14:00 The Walk Worthwhile NT<br />
27 13:00 Rusalka NT<br />
Konono No 1 14 Apr<br />
27 20:00 La Fanciulla Del West NT<br />
Ballet<br />
April<br />
1,22,29 14:00 Swan Lake SO<br />
4 19:00 Ibbur, Or A Prague Mystery ET<br />
7 19:00 Miniatury ET<br />
8 14:00 Mozart? Mozart! NT<br />
8 19:00 Mozart? Mozart! NT<br />
9,11,22,30<br />
19:00 Swan Lake SO<br />
12,13 19:00 Family Album ET<br />
14 20:00 Gala Ballet NT<br />
16 19:00 Gala Ballet SO<br />
17 19:00 A Midsummer Night’s Dream SO<br />
21 14:00 Balletmania ET<br />
21 19:00 Balletmania ET<br />
28 14:00 Onegin NT<br />
28 19:00 Onegin NT<br />
May<br />
12 19:00 Ballet Praha Junior ET<br />
20 14:00 Solo For Three - Music: Brel,<br />
Vysockij, Kryl NT<br />
20,23 19:00 Solo For Three - Music: Brel,<br />
Vysockij, Kryl NT<br />
21 19:00 La Dame Aux Camelias SO<br />
22,29 19:00 Cinderella SO<br />
29,30 19:00 Family Album ET<br />
Black Light Theatre<br />
April<br />
1,5,12,15,19,26,29<br />
20:00 Cabinet IM<br />
1-17,19-30 21:30 Aspects Of Alice TF<br />
2-9,11,13,15,17-19,22,23,25-29<br />
20:00 Frankenstein PT<br />
2,3,9,10,16,17,23,30<br />
20:00 Studio Clip IM<br />
2,3,30 20:00 Graffiti LG<br />
3-8,30 20:00 Quo Vadis FK<br />
4-9,11-14,18-21,25-29<br />
19:30 The Best Of Black Theatre JS<br />
4,8,11,18,22,25 20:00 Black Box IM<br />
4-8,18-21 20:00 Wonderful Circus LG<br />
5 18:00 Cabinet IM<br />
6,7,13,14,20,21,27,28<br />
20:00 The Best Of Image IM<br />
7,21 17:00 Wonderful Circus LG<br />
9-14 20:00 Anatomy Of The Kiss FK<br />
10-14,16,17 20:00 Rendez-Vous LG<br />
14 17:00 Rendez-Vous LG<br />
17-21 20:00 Classics - The Best From<br />
Black Theatre FK<br />
18 18:00 Black Box IM<br />
23-28 20:00 Casanova LG<br />
24 18:00 Studio Clip IM<br />
24-29 20:00 Miss Sony FK<br />
28 17:00 Casanova LG<br />
May<br />
1-5 20:00 Graffiti LG<br />
7-12,23-27,29-31 20:00 Wonderful Circus LG<br />
12,26 17:00 Wonderful Circus LG<br />
14-19,21,22 20:00 Legend of the Argonauts LG<br />
19 17:00 Legend of the Argonauts LG<br />
Daily 21:30 Aspects Of Alice TF<br />
CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
Juliette and The Licks 12 Apr<br />
Noise<br />
April<br />
3 18:00 Tokio Hotel SA<br />
6 19:00 Gwar AK<br />
10 20:00 Faithless TM<br />
12 20:00 Juliette and The Licks RM<br />
13 20:00 Amazing City - Paul Oakenfold TM<br />
13 20:00 Roger Waters SA<br />
14 19:00 Konono No 1 AK<br />
17 21:00 Gaia Mesiah LM<br />
22 19:00 Kosheen RX<br />
23 21:00 Rise Against, The Bronx and<br />
Cancer Bats LM<br />
24 19:30 Panteon Rococó RX<br />
25 19:00 Wednesday 13 RC<br />
27 19:30 The Young Gods AK<br />
27 20:00 Lisa Gerrard AR<br />
28 20:00 Tito & Tarantula RC<br />
May<br />
7 21:00 Incognito LM<br />
14 19:00 Bryan Ferry LH<br />
19 20:00 Marillion RM<br />
21 20:00 Mountains of Madness (The Tiger<br />
Lillies & Alexander Hacke) AR<br />
Exhibitions<br />
Alena Kučerová<br />
Until 29 Apr<br />
Alena Kučerová (b.1935) is one of the foremost personalities<br />
in Czech graphic design. This retrospective ties in with a<br />
similar project at the same venue sixteen years ago and<br />
is representative of the broad scope of Kučerová´s oeuvre<br />
from the end of the fifties, linked to the circles of the UB 12<br />
group, to the present. Admission 100/50Kč.<br />
Where? Stone Bell House, E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám.<br />
13, tel. 224 827 526, www.citygalleryprague.cz. Open 10:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Mon.<br />
For more events go to<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
April - May 2007<br />
13
14<br />
CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
Venue guide<br />
These codes refer to those used in the listings on<br />
previous pages.<br />
AK Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, tel.<br />
296 330 911, fax 296 330 912, www.<br />
palacakropolis.cz.<br />
AR Archa Theatre J-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26,<br />
tel. 221 71 61 11, fax 221 71 66 66, www.<br />
archatheatre.cz.<br />
ET Estates Theatre (Stavovské divadlo) E-3,<br />
Praha 1, Ovocný trh 1, tel. 224 22 85 03.<br />
FK Black Theatre of Fr. Kratochvíl H-4, Praha 1,<br />
Národní 25, tel. 221 08 52 76.<br />
IM Image Black Theatre H-3, Praha 1, Pařížská 4,<br />
tel. 222 31 44 58, www.imagetheatre.cz.<br />
JS Black light Theatre of Jiří Srnec F-3,<br />
Praha 5, U Lékárny 597, tel. 257 92 18 35,<br />
www.blacktheatresrnec.cz.<br />
LG Laterna Magika C-4, Praha 1, Národní 4, tel.<br />
222 22 20 41, www.laterna.cz.<br />
LH Lucerna Hall I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, tel.<br />
224 22 54 40, www.lucerna.cz.<br />
LM Lucerna Music Bar I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova<br />
36, tel. 224 21 71 08, www.musicbar.cz.<br />
MH Municipal House (Obecní dům)<br />
MW St. Martin in the Wall D-4, Praha 1,<br />
Martinská 8, tel. 604 75 90 62, www.<br />
martinvezdi.cz.<br />
NT National Theatre C-4, Praha 1, Národní<br />
třída 2, tel. 224 90 16 68, www.narodnidivadlo.cz.<br />
PT Prague Castle - New Gallery<br />
RC Rock Café D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, tel. 224<br />
93 39 47, www.rockcafe.cz.<br />
RF Rudolfinum D-2, Praha 1, Alšovo nábř. 12,<br />
tel. 227 05 91 11.<br />
RM Retro Music Hall J-6, Praha 2, Franzouzská<br />
4, tel. 603 47 67 47, www.retropraha.cz.<br />
RX Roxy E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, tel. 224 82 62<br />
96, www.roxy.cz.<br />
SA Sazka Arena Praha 9, Ocelářská 460/2,<br />
www.sazkaarena.cz.<br />
SO State Opera I-4, Praha 1, Wilsonova 4, tel.<br />
224 22 72 66.<br />
TF Ta Fantastika D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 8, tel.<br />
222 22 13 66, www.tafantastika.cz.<br />
TM T-Mobile Aréna Praha 7, Za Elektrárnou<br />
419, tel. 266 72 74 11, www.hcsparta.cz.<br />
VI Villa America - Antonín Dvořák’s Museum<br />
I-6, Praha 2, Ke Karlovu 20, tel. 224<br />
91 80 13, www.nm.cz.<br />
For more venues, see www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Each of us is an artist<br />
Leica Gallery Praha invites general public to take part<br />
in this project that will be developed over the next three<br />
years, inspired by the idea of coaxing the artist in each of<br />
us to look at the region and world around us with different<br />
eyes and produce a photographic testimony on life. This<br />
year’s theme is ‘My Family’. Terms and conditions may<br />
be found at www.lgp.cz.<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
The Orbis Pictus Until 30 Apr<br />
The Orbis Pictus, or The Gate to the World of Man’s<br />
Creative Imagination<br />
Until 30 Apr<br />
This interactive exhibition premiered at the Czech Centre<br />
in Paris last year and currently takes full advantage of<br />
this museum’s monumental vestibule and transepts. The<br />
centrepiece is inspired by The Labyrinth of the World and<br />
the Paradise of the Heart by Jan Amos Comenius and is an<br />
organic playing assembly mounted in an inflated heart-shaped<br />
structure, which invites, like all the other exhibits, the visitors’<br />
active and creative participation. Also find The Ear, The Eye,<br />
Singing Butterfly, a giant kaleidoscope and the Fountain of<br />
Pleasure. During the exhibition a number of musical, dance<br />
and theatrical performances will be held; most of them will be<br />
fairly alternative. Admission 100/50Kč.<br />
Where? Czech Music Museum in Prague, B-3, Praha 1,<br />
Karmelitská 2, tel. 257 25 77 77, www.pampaedia.cz. Open<br />
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.<br />
Japanese Posters Today<br />
Until 6 May<br />
The exhibition features over a hundred Japanese posters<br />
produced in the last decade from the collection DNP Archives<br />
of Graphic Design, Tokyo. After its premiere in Munich the<br />
exhibition went to Zurich and Frankfurt and will travel to Berlin.<br />
In collaboration with Dai Nippon Printing Co. Ltd., Die Neue<br />
Sammlung - Staatliches Museum für angewandte Kunst.<br />
Admission 120/60Kč.<br />
Bedřich Dlouhý Until 31 May<br />
Where? Museum of Decorative Arts in Prague, D-2, Praha 1,<br />
17. listopadu 2, tel. 251 093 111, www.upm.cz. Open 10:00<br />
- 18:00, Tue 10.00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Lawrence Ferlinghetti<br />
Until 13 May<br />
Lawrence Ferlinghetti (b. 1919) is known as one of the Beat<br />
poets and is the co-owner of San Francisco’s City Lights<br />
Bookstore. This exhibition presents a cross-section of his<br />
work, primarily drawings and spacious canvasses expressing<br />
his emotions from observing naked male and female bodies,<br />
which also convey the social and political contexts of his<br />
poetry. Admission 100/50Kč.<br />
Where? Golden Ring House, E-3, Praha 1, Týnská 6, tel. 224<br />
827 022, www.citygalleryprague.cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Mon.<br />
Shomei Tomatsu: Skin of the Nation<br />
Until 14 May<br />
Shomei, the father of modern Japanese photography, is<br />
one of the most eloquent Japanese artists of the past halfcentury<br />
and influenced several generations of Japanese<br />
photographers with his approach; documentary-based, lyrical<br />
and symbolic. Admission 100/50Kč.<br />
Where? Galerie Rudolfinum, Praha 1, D-2, Alšovo nábř. 12,<br />
tel. 227 05 92 05, www.galerierudolfinum.cz. Open 10:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Mammoths Hunters: A period that very few remember…<br />
Until 30 May<br />
The Gravettian region includes cave sites in France and<br />
the open sites of specialized mammoth hunters on the<br />
plains of Moravia, Austria and Silesia, which never again<br />
determined the development of culture in such a way. This<br />
exhibition features original artefacts, reconstruction of<br />
period dwellings and an actual-sized replica of a mammoth.<br />
Admission 110/60Kč and this ticket affords a 20% discount<br />
at Primitiv Restaurant Pravěk, I-5, Praha 2, Sokolská 60, tel.<br />
224 94 19 38, www.pravek.cz. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sun &<br />
Mon 11:30 - 23:00.<br />
Where? National Museum, I-5, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 68,<br />
tel. 224 49 71 11, www.nm.cz. Open 09:00 - 17:00<br />
Bedřich Dlouhý: Self-Portrait IV<br />
Until 31 May<br />
The exhibition named Self-Portrait IV will present the latest<br />
works of the painter Bedřich Dlouhý. The artist continues<br />
his work with new formats of his brilliant pieces. Let yourself<br />
be led into his world of magic and illusions, experiment and<br />
absurdity and bear witness to a certain development in his<br />
works, where Dlouhý unexpectedly adopts a reduced, even<br />
minimalist expression. Admission free.<br />
Where? Galerie Montanelli, A-2, Praha 1, Nerudova 13, tel.<br />
724 21 15 84, www.galeriemontanelli.com. Open 12:00<br />
- 18:00, Closed Sat & Sun.<br />
Air Asia<br />
4 Apr - 1 July<br />
A selection of works from last year’s Noorderlicht Photofestival<br />
in the Netherlands, this exhibition is a flight over Southeast<br />
Asia in the company of sixteen photographers. It provides a<br />
look at the history of portrait and documentary photography<br />
as well as reflecting contemporary life in genres from<br />
Minimalist Art to ironic portrayals of Bollywood Pop culture.<br />
With accompanying lectures, discussions, and screenings at<br />
the Langhans Gallery and films on 6, 13 & 20 June, at Ponrepo<br />
Cinema. All begin at 20:00. Admission 60/30Kč.<br />
Where? Langhans Galerie, I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 37, tel.<br />
222 92 93 33, www.langhansgalerie.cz. Open 12:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Mon.<br />
CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
Air Asia 4 Apr - 1 July<br />
Anniversary of the Eight<br />
6 Apr - 17 June<br />
To mark the 100th anniversary of the first exhibition held by<br />
Osma (The Eight) - Emil Filla, Bedřich Feigl, Max Horb, Bohumil<br />
Kubišta, Otakar Kubín, Emil Pittermann-Longen, Willy Nowak<br />
and Antonín Procházka. Although today it is impossible<br />
to attempt a reconstruction of a show that signalled the<br />
emergence of Modernism in Czech art, this exhibition seeks<br />
to recall that important event. Admission 50/20Kč.<br />
Where: Czech Museum of Fine Arts, Praha 1, Husova 19<br />
- 21, tel. 222 22 02 18, www.cmvu.cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Mon<br />
Rudolfine Beauty<br />
Recently Discovered Works by Painters at the Court<br />
of Emperor Rudolf II<br />
From 15 Apr<br />
Thanks to the generosity of a foreign admirer of Rudolfine<br />
art, four works are returning to the rooms for which they<br />
were most probably created during the reign of Rudolf II.<br />
For the first time since their discovery three paintings and<br />
a sculpture from a private collection are being exhibited<br />
by Prague Castle Picture Gallery as a public exhibition.<br />
The hitherto unknown, uncatalogued works with subject<br />
matter from classical mythology and the Bible were<br />
made by important artists at Rudolf’s court: the German<br />
painter, diplomat, and buyer of artworks for the<br />
imperial collections Hans von Aachen (Cologne 1551/52<br />
- Prague 1615); the Flemish painter and draughtsman<br />
Bartholomeus Spranger (Antwerp 1546 - Prague 1611);<br />
and the Netherlandish (yes, that is a real word) sculptor<br />
Adriaen de Vries (The Hague c.1545 - Prague 1626). The<br />
pieces will remain on show for a year and admission is<br />
included on your castle ticket.<br />
April - May 2007<br />
15
16<br />
CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
Gallery in the Train 5 - 24 Apr<br />
Gross Domestic Product<br />
4 May - 18 Aug<br />
Contemporary Czech art is as scathing as it is gentle, as<br />
apolitical as it is political, as conceptual as it is spectacular,<br />
as contemplative as it is provocative and as sane as it is<br />
insane. The exhibition presents the current Czech arts scene<br />
in its full diversity and variety. Admission 120/60 Kč.<br />
Where? Municipal Library, D-3, Praha 1, Mariánské nám.<br />
1, tel. 222 31 04 89, www.ghmp.cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Mon.<br />
Gallery in the Train: Million Dollar Hotel & Buena Vista<br />
Social Club<br />
5 - 24 Apr<br />
The Leica Gallery Praha continues its movable visual feast<br />
with two exhibitions from filmmaker Wim Wenders and his<br />
photographer wife Donata. The Million Dollar Hotel, depicts<br />
an American Dream from U2’s Bono (who has a writing credit<br />
on the film) comprising film stills and photos with Bono’s lyrics<br />
and Donata’s prints illustrating the works of the actors Mila<br />
Jovovich and Jeremy Davis. The second involves prints and<br />
stills created by the Wenders during the making of the Buena<br />
Vista Social Club, capturing the spirit and atmosphere of Cuba.<br />
Accompanied by stories and lyrics from Ry Cooder, Joaquim<br />
Cooder and Wim Wenders. The train will move to other Czech<br />
railway stations until mid August. Admission 50Kč.<br />
Where? Praha Hlavní nádraží (main station), Praha 1, J-4,<br />
Wilsonova 80, www.lgp.cz. Open daily 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
Happenings<br />
6th Bacardi Salsa Festival Prague 2007<br />
13 - 15 Apr<br />
Some of the best international salsa dancers, teachers, DJs<br />
and promoters will visit Prague for this festival where last<br />
year over 1,000 participants from 25 countries took part.<br />
Workshops for wannabees and experts will be held as well<br />
as three salsa parties with professional shows, so bring on<br />
the heat. Tickets €19 - 100. See www.salsafestival.cz for<br />
details, the earlier you buy, the cheaper the tickets.<br />
Where? National House, J-5, Praha 2, nám. Míru 9, tel. 221<br />
59 62 09, www.nardum.cz.<br />
For more events go to<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Czech Dance Platform 2007<br />
13 - 18 Apr<br />
An exciting and intensive week of dance for Czech and<br />
international audiences mapping the progress of Czech<br />
contemporary dance over the past year.<br />
13 Apr<br />
18:00 - Farma v jeskyni /Viliam Dočolomanský: Waiting<br />
Room at NoD, F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33<br />
20:00 - Jaro Viňarský: The Last Step Before & Karine<br />
Ponties: Mi Non Sabir at Ponec, Praha 3, Husitská 24<br />
14 Apr<br />
17:00 - Marta Trpišovská/Jana Hudečková: Baring Our Souls<br />
at Duncan Centre, Praha 4, Branická 41<br />
20:00 - Dance Theatre Entre Pasos/Pavlína Černá, A.A.<br />
Gonzalez: Voices of a Dream, Dora Hoštová: Arcanum & DOT<br />
504/Anton Lachký: Heaven is the Place... at Ponec<br />
15 Apr<br />
12:00 - Lucie Holánková: Kambana, Lucie Holánková: Till I<br />
Find You & Ji Eun Lee: Objects & Particles at Divadlo Disk,<br />
D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 26<br />
14:00 - Dagmar Chaloupková: Gradina, Dora Hoštová: On a<br />
Perch & Krepsko: Polish Tango for Three at Duncan Centre<br />
17:00 - Jan Beneš-McGadie & Vojta Švejda: Polaris at<br />
Divadlo Alfred ve dvoře, I-1, Praha 7, Fr. Křížka 36<br />
20:00 - Kristýna Celbová: AriaD.N.A & Jan Kodet: (e)MOTION<br />
PURE – KEVEL at Ponec<br />
16 Apr<br />
18:00 - Veronika Švábová: Silence at Alfred ve dvoře<br />
20:00 - NANOHACH/Ioana Mona Popovici: Portrait at Ponec<br />
17 Apr<br />
20:00 - Černá Vaněk Dance: No Fear, No Die at Ponec<br />
18 Apr<br />
11:00 - Open discussion with the members of the Sazka<br />
Prize Jury and artists at Ponec<br />
19:00 - VerTe Dance: The Brave at Ponec<br />
Altan: Irish Dance<br />
25 Apr at 19:00<br />
Arguably the biggest name in traditional Irish music, for over<br />
20 years the Altan family have created a distinctive style full<br />
of energy and rhythm combined with the fragility of Gaelic<br />
and English lyrics. Tickets 490Kč.<br />
Where? T-Mobile Arena, Praha 7, Za elektrárnou 419.<br />
Prague Spring 2007<br />
12 May - 3 June<br />
The 62nd year for this famed International Music Festival<br />
kicks of with the traditional opening and closing concerts at<br />
the Municipal House and will comprise concerts performed<br />
by musicians hailing from countries such as the Czech<br />
Republic, Korea, China, the UK, the US, Spain and Finland will<br />
be presented at some 18 venues. The 59th Prague Spring<br />
International Music Competition will take place from 7 - 15<br />
May, in the categories of horn and conducting. Tickets from<br />
200 - 2,400Kč. See www.festival.cz for more information<br />
and full programme listings.<br />
Prague Spring 12 May - 3 June<br />
6TH <strong>PRAGUE</strong> FRINGE FESTIVAL<br />
27 May - 3 June<br />
The quirky and unusual hits Prague between the eyes for the<br />
sixth time this summer as we welcome back the increasingly<br />
feted, bigger and better Prague <strong>Fringe</strong> Festival. Audiences<br />
of all ages and nationalities will laugh, cry, get turned on<br />
and off no doubt, sing, dance and listen to this incredible<br />
festival of theatre, comedy, music and film from the Czech<br />
Republic and around the globe. Let’s do the number crunching<br />
before we get into the shows themselves… over 170<br />
performers (including actors, artists, puppeteers, singers<br />
and dancers) in 44 companies from 12 countries will put<br />
on 259 performances over 8 days in 8 venues. And despite<br />
adding two new venues and one extra day, the indefatigable<br />
<strong>Fringe</strong> organisers assure us that all performances can still<br />
be seen over the eight days. So, which performances? Take<br />
your pick, here’s a selection:<br />
Tourist (England)<br />
Daily, 18:30 - 19:30 at Nablízko<br />
This frenetic and exhilarating new show from little d-fects<br />
examines how dreams and life can be shattered or fulfilled in<br />
an instant. Set in Beijing during a total eclipse it is text based<br />
but visual and suitable for 14 years and over.<br />
The Voice and The Verse (Ireland)<br />
Daily, 20:30 - 21:30 at U Malého Glena<br />
A montage of musical poetry from contemporary voices.<br />
Poignant lyrics and infectious melodies. Do not miss this craic<br />
but be aware that it is for adults only and is in English.<br />
Andi Neate (Scotland)<br />
1 - 3 June, 19:00 - 20:00 at U Malého Glena<br />
After debuting at London’s Mean Fiddler, Andi has since taken<br />
her magical blend of folk, jazz and lyrical skills to the Falkland<br />
Islands, Edinburgh <strong>Fringe</strong>, Palermo and Canada. A local favourite,<br />
this is Andi’s fourth trip here. Suitable for all ages, in English.<br />
Na hlavu! (Czech Republic)<br />
27 - 29 May, 19:30 - 20:30 & 3 June, 15:00 - 16:00 at<br />
Nablízko tent. The Veselé skoky (Jolly Jumps) group present<br />
Flathead! Dance madness featuring humour and tenderness,<br />
kleptomaniacs and nymphomaniacs. Inspired by ballet and<br />
panto, Monty Python and Mr. Bean among others. Suitable<br />
for all ages and languages; it is non verbal.<br />
First Love (England)<br />
Daily, 18:00 - 19:00 at Divadlo Inspirace<br />
The London-based but wonderfully multicultural Act<br />
Provocateur International presents their provocative<br />
adaptation of Beckett’s short story pondering the ability of<br />
love to survive our cruel and perverse world. Physical theatre<br />
with verbal elements and is suitable for adults only.<br />
Tarantella, Tarantula (USA)<br />
Daily, 19:30 - 20:40 at Divadlo Inspirace<br />
The San Francisco based ARTSHIP Ensemble performs<br />
nonlinear dance and music sequences to weave a story about<br />
the continuing influence of traditional cultures whatever our<br />
era or location, basically that humans need human needs. It<br />
is text based but visual and suitable for adults only.<br />
A Play On Two Chairs (Ireland)<br />
Daily, 21:00 - 22:00 at Divadlo Inspirace<br />
The Mangiare Theatre Company, based in both Paris and<br />
Sligo, were nominated for three Dublin <strong>Fringe</strong> Festival Awards<br />
last year for this text based performance which will change<br />
the way you look at your furniture forever.<br />
Amelia (USA)<br />
Daily, 16:00 - 17:00 at A Studio Rubín<br />
The famed life and mysterious disappearance of aviatrix<br />
Amelia Earhart, who vanished on her quest to follow the<br />
equatorial route across the globe. Was she a US spy, did she<br />
die on a deserted island or did she go down with her beloved<br />
airplane? Suitable for all but containing strong language.<br />
Lot Lizards (Canada)<br />
Daily, 23:00 - 00:00 at Nablízko<br />
Peepshow Productions present their adult-only subterranean<br />
A Play On Two Chairs 27 May - 3 June<br />
shuffle revolving around two drug-addicted prostitutes who live<br />
and work at a truck stop. Text based visual theatre and film.<br />
No Obvious Trauma (England)<br />
Daily, 21:30 - 22:30 at Nablízko<br />
Text based but visually splendid romantic thriller from<br />
Unpacked’s high octane fusion of physical theatre, words,<br />
puppetry and animation that explores the fine line between<br />
diagnosis and delirium. Suitable for adults only.<br />
Short Films @ the <strong>Fringe</strong> (HK/CZ)<br />
1 - 3 June, 15:15 - 16:30 at Nablízko<br />
The Prague <strong>Fringe</strong> presents a series of short independent<br />
films on Hong Kong, a city of contradictions. In association with<br />
the “I Shot Hong Kong” Film Festival. In English/Cantonese/<br />
Putonghua. Subtitled in English and suitable for 15 and over.<br />
Also, prodigal returnees include the delightfully vulgar comedy<br />
of Topping & Butch, the divine voice of Maria Tecce and<br />
the creative writings of Prague’s own The Ancient Geeks.<br />
Plus, Paul Gudgin, Director of The Edinburgh Festival <strong>Fringe</strong><br />
will join Ladislav Pflimpfl, Director of the Czech Cultural Centre<br />
in London and Prague <strong>Fringe</strong> Founder/ Director, Steve Gove<br />
to discuss opportunities for Czech independent theatre<br />
companies, productions and projects to perform in Scotland<br />
at the world’s largest festival. 30 May, 15.30 - 16.30 at<br />
Divadlo Na Prádle.<br />
All shows are in Malá Strana, here are the the venues…<br />
Divadlo Na Prádle and its rather tasty kavárna (café) and<br />
the ticket office is also the PFF central box office. Praha 1,<br />
Besedni 3, (B-4), www.divadlonapradle.cz<br />
Nablízko and its stan (tent) will also have tents serving up<br />
veggie food and Nam Jai Thai massage. Praha 1, Nosticova<br />
2a, (B-3), www.nablizko.cz<br />
U Malého Glena’s gem of a downstairs venue which is also<br />
amply served by the tasty bar and café upstairs. Praha 1,<br />
Karmelitska 23, (B-3), www.malyglen.cz<br />
A Studio Rubín with a bar and café. Praha 1, Malostranské<br />
nám. 9, (A-2), www.astudiorubin.cz<br />
Divadlo Inspirace is a new venue for the PFF. Praha 1,<br />
Malostranské nám. 13, (A-2), www.hamu.cz/divadlo<br />
Baráčnická rychta is the second new venue and a great Czech<br />
pub . Praha 1, Tržiště 23, (A-2), www.baracnickarychta.cz<br />
Tickets 100Kč for the first day, 150Kč on subsequent<br />
days and are available also from www.ticketstream.cz<br />
from early May. For more information, see www.fringe.cz.<br />
Programmes will be available online and at bars, cafés and<br />
<strong>Fringe</strong> venues also from early May.<br />
April - May 2007<br />
17
18 TOP 10 … PARKS & GARDENS<br />
In honour of the early and very welcoming coming of<br />
spring, the inaugural series Prague In Your Pocket Top<br />
10… kicks of with a Parks & Gardens. As soon as winter<br />
shrugs off woollen coat, Prague erupts with people and<br />
blossom basking in the longer days of sunshine and<br />
the opening of the city’s green spaces while pavements<br />
suddenly sprout chairs and tables and everyone becomes<br />
friendlier - this might be due to the opening of the beer<br />
gardens rather than the weather…<br />
Zoo Praha<br />
After the tragic losses of the 2002 floods, the Zoo has<br />
improved beyond all recognition and even has an awardwinning<br />
programme beamed live from within its enclosures.<br />
Prague’s gorillas are increasing in number while also<br />
increasing in fame. Following the birth of Moya in 2004, the<br />
oldest female, Kamba, is due to give birth to a baby, again<br />
sired by Richard, in May. If you can’t get to the Zoo to see the<br />
event in person, you can watch it live online on Czech Radio’s<br />
show The Revealed (www.rozhlas.cz/unmasking/live).<br />
Moya’s mother, Kijivu is due to give birth to another baby<br />
later this year – and yes, Richard is the father again. With<br />
the coming of spring, so arrives the increase in displays,<br />
feedings talks and introductions of and to some of the<br />
Zoo’s animals. To save tired legs (and children) there are<br />
two chairlifts operating in good weather to tour the zoo from<br />
above (30/20Kč) and summer sees the reintroduction of<br />
night tours although these are only in Czech.<br />
Wallenstein Gardens<br />
Valdštejnská zahrada may have a lot of rules, but the lack of<br />
human and canine detritus only adds to their beauty. This small<br />
but beautiful formed park is famous for its peacocks, the cavernlike<br />
folly (look for phallic and serpentine motifs) and the biggest<br />
fish we’ve seen in a while – ducklings often have to make a sharp<br />
exit to avoid being nibbled. Add cheerful employees who love<br />
their work, an owlery, beautiful frescoes and benches galore to<br />
while away sunny afternoons either before or after a venture up<br />
to the castle, and you have a sublime spot for a quiet sojourn.<br />
A small gate to the right of the exit from Malostranská metro<br />
station is an alternative entrance to the one on Letenská and<br />
the third which is through the courtyard of Valdštejnský palác,<br />
one of the Czech Parliament buildings.<br />
Petřín Hill<br />
Spring is the best time to see Petřín Hill as it is awash in white<br />
blossom, ironically giving it a far snowier look in May than it ever<br />
had this winter. For a decent city hike, head to the Švandovo<br />
divadlo stop (Tram N°6,9,12,20) and walk up through the<br />
park from the entrance near a new kids’ playground, past the<br />
Kinský summer palace, past the wooden Ukrainian church<br />
and through the Hunger Wall. This wall, several miles long, was<br />
commission by Charles IV and is so called because it was built<br />
during a famine in exchange for food. 30 Apr sees Petřín Hill<br />
pinpricked by illegal fires for one of the country’s more unusual<br />
traditions, Pálení čarodějnic (Witches’ Night), and the fires are<br />
for burning old brooms to keep the witches at bay. Apparently<br />
couples leap over the embers in some sort of fertility rite, but<br />
it is May Day, 1 May that is the true symbol of renewal and<br />
love when passion springs forth under the blossom trees. The<br />
tradition is that a kiss or more ‘neath the blossom will keep us<br />
and our love virile and fresh for the coming year. Karel Hynek<br />
Mácha (1810-1836) wrote a romantic poem entitles Maj and a<br />
statue of him appropriately stands on Petřín Hill to be visited by<br />
the lovers inspired by it. (Mácha is buried however at Vyšehrad.)<br />
A couple of restaurants and a beer garden sit prettily at the<br />
funicular’s Nebozizek tram mid way up the hill.<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
The Castle Gardens<br />
Prague Castle, like the city, is blessed with numerous green<br />
spaces and a walk around these fabulous gardens is good<br />
for body, soul and for wonderful vistas across the red tiled<br />
roofs of Malá Strana. The large Royal Garden was laid out<br />
in 1534 as Ferdinand I gradually bought the vineyards<br />
around the Brusnice stream valley to the north of the castle<br />
complex. Buildings within its area include the Ball Game<br />
Pavilion and the Royal Summer House. The garden is now<br />
an “English-style” park created in the mid 19th century<br />
(although there are also Renaissance and Baroque elements)<br />
and is accessible via two entrances, the main (western)<br />
gate from U Prašného mostu (By the Powder Bridge) and<br />
the east gate near the Royal Summer House. The northern<br />
gate from Mariánské hradby (Marian Ramparts) is only open<br />
occasionally. The Garden on the Terrace of the Riding School,<br />
which is to the right as you enter the castle from Pražský hrad<br />
tram stop, was designed in the Baroque style by architect<br />
Pavel Janák between 1950 and 1956. The Garden on the<br />
Bastion is by the Spanish Hall and was designed by Josip<br />
Plečnik, the castle’s official architect from 1920 - 1935 in<br />
the Italian and Japanese style. The Bastion gardens can be<br />
approached from U Prašného mostu or from Hradčanské<br />
náměstí. The steeply terraced gardens facing Malá Strana<br />
incorporate Paradise Garden, The Garden on the Ramparts<br />
and the Hartig Garden. Gardens are open to the public all<br />
summer and are free to wander through. The northern Royal<br />
Garden links with adjacent Letenské sady and makes a lovely<br />
walk along the old city wall.<br />
Letenské sady<br />
a.k.a. Letná, which has great open fields for football, kiteflying,<br />
Frisbee and even for hot air ballooning. There are<br />
also tennis courts, inline skate rental (from the bathroom<br />
attendant at the beer garden), retro 70s disco rollerbooters,<br />
skaterboys and more, plus panoramic views of<br />
Prague from the metronome, where a new huge aquarium<br />
should be opening in 2009. The metronome itself is a 1991<br />
replacement for the 15m high, 17,000 tonne statue of Josef<br />
Stalin that the Communist Party erected in 1955 then blew up<br />
(at the orders of the new Soviet leader, Nikita Khrushchev) in<br />
1962. The statue showed Stalin in front of a line of workers,<br />
which Prague residents irreverently dubbed Fronta na maso<br />
(meat queue), which were of course a daily part of life in the<br />
city then. The blacktop paths around the park have markings<br />
for all comers to keep on the right side of the road and once<br />
you have worked up a thirst, Letná is home to one of the<br />
city’s finest beer gardens… finest by view, ambience and<br />
sheer at-one-with-natureness rather than luxury – although<br />
the adjacent Letenský zámeček restaurant (see page 68)<br />
does host some fine dining. Sit under the chestnut trees with<br />
your beer from the kiosk – look for the line of thirsty/drunk<br />
people. Kids are well catered for too with toddler playgrounds<br />
and an excellent adventure area. To get to the park, you can<br />
walk up the steep steps from Čechův most (Tram N°12,17)<br />
or go to Sparta or Letenské náměstí (Tram N°1,8,15,25,26)<br />
and walk into the park from there. Hradčanská is the closest<br />
metro stop and it’s a ten minute walk from there.<br />
Riegrovy sady<br />
This Vinohrady park (K-5) is more for dog-walking and<br />
sunbathing as the paths tend to be too steep for blading<br />
or skating (winter sledding is fantastic here though).<br />
The sunbathers use the pub on the corner Polská and<br />
Třebízského to water themselves if they can’t face the<br />
longer walk to the beer garden (which does serve in plastic<br />
cups too). And so we come to the beer garden which is<br />
why everyone really comes here… food from the grill, beer<br />
from the over-active taps, foosball tables, big screen and<br />
benches galore host myriad residents, expats, tourists and<br />
TV crews – when national sports are showing. For a more<br />
salubrious dining experience, opposite the beer garden is<br />
the rather lovely Park Café with excellently priced food and<br />
drinks and a small terrace. The quickest way to the beer<br />
garden, which is next to the kid’s playground (obviously) is<br />
along Slavíkova from Jiřího z Poděbrad metro station and<br />
turn left onto Krkonošská.<br />
Havlíčkovy sady<br />
Another of Vinohrady’s parks is quite appropriately also<br />
a vineyard and has a lovely winebar within its boundaries.<br />
A luxurious neo-Renaissance summer house, the Villa<br />
Gröbe (Gröbovka) was built between 1871 to 1888 for the<br />
industrialist Moritz Gröbe. After his death, the villa and<br />
grounds were sold to Royal Vinohrady and the park was<br />
opened on 6 May, 1906. The villa is currently undergoing<br />
reconstruction. Viniční altán (see page 44) has a beautiful<br />
wooden terrace for the summertime sipping of wine – follow<br />
the signs in the park. See if you can find the ruins near the<br />
Koperníkova end (J/K-6) but the easiest way to get to the<br />
park is walking from Jana Masaryka (Tram N°4,22,23). If<br />
you walk all the way down the hill, you do not need to hike<br />
back up but can catch trams on Vršovická across the small<br />
stream.<br />
Vyšehrad<br />
Also known as the rock above the river, Vyšehrad is<br />
beautifully signposted by the twin neo-Gothic towers of<br />
the Church of Saints Peter & Paul. Vyšehrad was the royal<br />
residence from 1085-1140 at which time the Rotunda of St.<br />
Martin was built, which remained outside the jurisdiction of<br />
the Bishop of Prague and reported directly to Rome. Under<br />
Charles IV, Vyšehrad was converted into a fortress with a<br />
Gothic royal palace and was linked to the city wall. In the<br />
17th century it was converted into a Baroque fortress with its<br />
own garrison. The middle of the 19th century saw Vyšehrad’s<br />
TOP 10... PARKS & GARDENS<br />
present profile rise as the church was rebuilt and the national<br />
cemetery was created here in 1870 which has become a<br />
gallery of funeral sculpture as well as the resting place of<br />
over 600 cultural and intellectual luminaries including Jozef<br />
and Karel Čapek, Karel Hynek Mácha and Alfons Mucha. The<br />
Historic Faces of Vyšehrad underground exhibition is found as<br />
you walk towards the so-called Baths of Libuše at the rocky<br />
promontory. Signs from Vyšehrad metro station lead to the<br />
castle. The tram line below the castle cuts into the rock – it’s a<br />
lovely trip along the embankment there. Steps heading down<br />
to the embankment (Rabínovo nábr.) lead down to behind the<br />
Cubist houses near the railway bridge.<br />
Parukářka sady<br />
This isn’t the most well known park in Prague but it has<br />
superb views of the hill from its vantage point atop Vinohrady<br />
and Žižkov near the TV Tower and the massive horse statue<br />
of the Vítkov monument. Benches provide your own spot to<br />
view the city from and there is a small pub with cold beer, grill<br />
and even a bonfire for chilly evenings. To get to the park, go to<br />
Olšanské náměstí (Tram N°5,9,26) and cross the footbridge<br />
across Prokopova street. As you begin the walk up the stairs<br />
(the park is at the top) you will see a large cement wall on<br />
your right, this is Bunkr Parukářka (see page 67), an honest<br />
to goodness nuclear bunker now open for live music and DJ<br />
sets… Try the door (and check out the size of it), someone<br />
might be down there but don’t get locked in… no one can<br />
hear you scream in a nuclear bunker.<br />
Franciscan Gardens<br />
The beautifully serene Frantíškánská zahrada (I-4) abuts the<br />
lofty Church of Mary of the Snow and although this space<br />
has been a garden since the 14th century, its present form<br />
was reconstructed in the 1990s. The garden is small and<br />
there is little to do except catch some rays on one of the<br />
benches, marvel at the rose garden, buy a frock perhaps<br />
from the small shop in its centre or just eat an ice cream<br />
from Pasáž Světozor and relax in this oasis of calm in the<br />
bustle of city life.<br />
April - May 2007<br />
19
20 WHERE TO STAY<br />
Prague has a long tradition of hospitality having hosted<br />
generations of travellers, thinkers and invading armies.<br />
All prices include VAT and breakfast unless mentioned<br />
otherwise.<br />
Cream of the crop<br />
Alchymist Grand Hotel & Spa A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště<br />
19, MStaromětská, tel. 257 28 60 11, fax 257 28 60<br />
17, reservations@alchymisthotel.com, www.alchymisthotel.com.<br />
Incorporated in four Baroque and Renaissance<br />
buildings, the Alchymist treads a fine line between opulence<br />
and OTT but with sublime refinements in service and with a<br />
Balinese spa beautifully nestled in the 16th century cellars,<br />
opulence wins out.Q46 rooms (26 doubles N300 - 335, 13<br />
suites N600 - 1800, 7 junior suites N375 - 415). ACDE<br />
FGHKLPR hhhhh<br />
Corinthia Towers Praha 4, Kongresová 1, MVyšehrad,<br />
tel. 261 19 11 11, fax 261 21 16 73, towers@corinthia.<br />
cz, www.corinthia.cz. All the convenience you would demand<br />
from a 24-floor hotel in a capital city. In addition to a top-class<br />
oriental and Italian restaurant, facilities include a casino, fitness<br />
centre and ten-pin bowling. Q544 rooms (120 singles N260<br />
- 300, 388 doubles N260 - 300, triples N350 - 390, 20 suites<br />
N410 - 1570, 1 presidential suite N1570, 16 junior suites N410).<br />
ACDFGHKLPRTU hhhhh<br />
Four Seasons D-2, Praha 1, Veleslavínova 2a,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 221 42 70 00, fax 221 42 69 77,<br />
reservations.prg@fourseasons.com, www.fourseasons.<br />
com/prague. Just a step from Charles Bridge, the Four Seasons<br />
affords its guests with as much class and comfort as is humanly<br />
possible. Over a year was spent renovating the four buildings that<br />
provide a roof over your head, which range from 500-year-old<br />
elegance to contemporary design. Q161 rooms (singles N275<br />
- 550, 141 doubles N295 - 570, 20 apartments N695 - 3900).<br />
ABDFGHKLPRTU hhhhh<br />
Grand Hotel Bohemia F-3, Praha 1, Králodvorská 4,<br />
MNám. Republiky, tel. 234 60 81 11, fax 222 32 95 45,<br />
office@grandhotelbohemia.cz, www.grandhotelbohemia.<br />
cz. An Austrian-run hotel with attractive Art Nouveau rooms<br />
and staff who are renowned for their efficiency. The hotel has<br />
a café and laundry service. Q78 rooms (10 singles N175<br />
- 240, 65 doubles N210 - 280, 3 junior suites N310 - 540).<br />
AGHKLPRU hhhhh<br />
Hilton Prague J-2, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc,<br />
tel. 224 84 11 11, fax 224 84 23 78, sales.prague@<br />
hilton.com, www.prague.hilton.com. Easily recognisable<br />
as the glass box on the Vltava, Hilton Prague has all the<br />
facilities expected in this international brand. 24 hour bars,<br />
restaurants and services and a casino. Q788 rooms (20<br />
singles N150 - 280, 646 doubles N150 - 280, 91 triples N166<br />
- 296, 19 suites N308 - 438, 3 apartments N686 - 816, 8<br />
junior suites N266 - 396, 1 presidential suite N956 - 1089).<br />
ACDFGHKLOPRTU hhhhh<br />
InterContinental Praha E-1, Praha 1, Nám. Curieových<br />
43/5, MStaroměstská, tel. 296 63 11 11, fax 224 81<br />
12 16, prague@interconti.com, www.prague.interconti.<br />
com. The friendliest front desk and most helpful concierge in<br />
all of Prague might be your first contact with this big, international<br />
hotel that has been looking after high flyers since before<br />
the fall of communism. All the facilities you would expect,<br />
including a superb fitness centre. Q372 rooms (155 singles<br />
N149 - 270, 128 doubles N149 - 290, 24 suites N349 - 490,<br />
2 apartments N1830 - 4200, 63 junior suites N199 - 340).<br />
ABCDFGHKLPRU hhhhh<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
O Casino H Conference facilities<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
R Internet L Guarded parking<br />
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms<br />
K Restaurant M Nearest metro station<br />
D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi<br />
Josef F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 20, MNám. Republiky, tel.<br />
221 70 01 11, fax 221 70 09 99, reservation@hoteljosef.<br />
com, www.hoteljosef.com. Should you want your hotel<br />
room to be bare and stuffed with style and edges that might<br />
slice your fingers, then come here and impress whoever you<br />
want with your taste for all things modern and minimal. A<br />
delightful contrast is provided by the serene garden around<br />
which the whole place revolves. Q110 rooms (8 singles<br />
N149 - 253, 102 doubles N173 - 296). ABFGH<br />
KLPRUW hhhhh<br />
Mandarin Oriental B-3, Praha 1, Nebovidská 459/1,<br />
MMalostranská, tel. 233 08 88 88, fax 233 08 86<br />
68, moprg-reservations@mohg.com, www.mandarinoriental.com.<br />
Rooms have at least two LCD TVs, bath<br />
and shower, robes and slippers and DVD player in addition<br />
to regular room amenities. Design, dining (a la carte Asian,<br />
Indian, Mediterranean) and service are immaculate, while<br />
reconstruction of the church and monastery have left<br />
enough to retain character. And the spa is superb. Q99<br />
rooms (2 singles N269 - 669, 75 doubles N269 - 669, 18<br />
suites N879 - 4000, 4 junior suites N769 - 850). ABF<br />
GHKLPRU hhhhh<br />
Marriott I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 222 88 88 88, fax 222 88 88 89, prague.marriott@<br />
marriott.cz, www.marriott.com. Bigger really is better.<br />
Every amenity imaginable and size, lots of it. Higher priced<br />
suites have two levels. If you are shelling out for a suite or better,<br />
then breakfast is included. Q293 rooms (258 doubles<br />
N149 - 315, 33 suites N359 - 495, 2 apartments N1300).<br />
ACDFGHKLPRTU hhhhh<br />
Palace Praha F-4, Praha 1, Panská 12, MMůstek, tel.<br />
224 09 31 11, fax 224 22 12 40, info@palacehotel.cz,<br />
www.palacehotel.cz. A beautiful Viennese Art Nouveau<br />
building houses this hotel, which has been providing superior<br />
service to wealthier visitors to Prague since 1906. Its<br />
elegance may be a draw, but its real selling point should be<br />
the friendly staff. Q124 rooms (114 doubles N160 - 336, 3<br />
apartments N770 - 1140, 7 junior suites N430). ADGH<br />
KLPRU hhhhh<br />
Paris I-3, Praha 1, U Obecního domu 1, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 222 19 51 95, fax 224 22 54 75, booking@<br />
hotel-paris.cz, www.hotel-paris.cz. Everything is Art<br />
Nouveau in this building, from its intricate façade to the<br />
lamps and other furnishings in its café and restaurant. Even<br />
the brass door handles on the antique lifts are decorated<br />
in this beautiful style. Take the stairs and be rewarded with<br />
stained glass windows and red carpets rolled out for each<br />
guest in the hallways. Q86 rooms (70 doubles N160 - 360,<br />
3 apartments N500 - 3700, 13 junior suites N280 - 520).<br />
ABDGHKLPRT hhhhh<br />
President H-2, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 100,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 234 61 41 00, fax 234 61 41 10,<br />
reservations@hotelpresident.cz, www.hotelpresident.<br />
cz. A range of top-class suites, an executive floor, a casino<br />
and a fitness room and spa, have earned the President five<br />
star status. Luxurious mod cons abound. All staff seem<br />
genuinely pleased to be here. Q130 rooms (7 singles<br />
N165 - 225, 65 doubles N145 - 225, 22 triples N145 - 225,<br />
32 junior suites N195 - 255, 3 senior suites N295 - 355, 1<br />
presidential suite N800 - 1100). Executive floor add €50<br />
on all types of rooms. ADFHKLOPRTU<br />
hhhhh<br />
Radisson SAS Alcron I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 40,<br />
MMuzeum, tel. 222 82 00 00, fax 222 82 01 00, sales.<br />
prague@radissonsas.com, www.radissonsas.com. Built<br />
in 1930 and restored to its former glory in 1999, this place<br />
has picked up a heap of design awards. Guests can expect<br />
rooms that have the warmth and grace of state rooms on a<br />
luxury liner. The higher the floor, the more stunning your view<br />
of Prague. Extras include a 24-hour limousine service. Prices<br />
do not include VAT. Q211 rooms (12 singles N169 - 229,<br />
180 doubles N169 - 229, 5 suites N309 - 359, 1 apartment<br />
N900 - 1300, 13 junior suites N269 - 309). ABDFGH<br />
KLPRTU hhhhh<br />
Renaissance I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 7, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 221 82 21 00, fax 221 82 22 00, renaissance.<br />
prague@renaissance.cz, www.renaissancehotels.com.<br />
Pay more to stay at the top-floor VIP lounge, where, with the<br />
abounding irony of this cruel world, everything is free. Price<br />
does not include breakfast. Q310 rooms (299 doubles<br />
N140 - 250, 10 suites N399 - 459, 1 apartment N950).<br />
ACDFGHKLPRTU hhhhh<br />
The Golden Gate Hotel & Suites H-5, Praha 1, Žitná<br />
8, tel. 225 99 99 99, fax 225 99 99 98, reception@goldengate.cz,<br />
www.goldengate.cz. Modern luxury in premium,<br />
deluxe (some of these have no windows) and studio suites<br />
in this reconstructed building. Amenities are the same for<br />
all rooms; king beds, robes, TV & DVD, kitchenette, minibar,<br />
safe, hair dryer, etc. while some suites have dining tables<br />
(furniture is black lacquer on the whole) and microwaves and<br />
those on the top floor are duplex. A lovely café downstairs<br />
provides breakfast and room service. Fitness centre is next<br />
door. Q76 rooms (76 suites N365 - 545). PHARF<br />
GKW hhhhh<br />
Upmarket<br />
Élite<br />
H-5, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 93<br />
22 50, fax 224 93 07 87, sales@hotelelite.cz, www.<br />
hotelelite.cz. With a history that dates back to the 14th<br />
century, the Élite, a member of the Small Charming group, is<br />
another gem. Totally refurbished in 2000, rooms are suitably<br />
grand, spacious and historic, with wonderful high ceilings, and<br />
lovely antique furniture. Q79 rooms (10 singles N112 - 176,<br />
67 doubles N125 - 199, 1 triple N169 - 267, 1 junior suite N147<br />
- 216). ABGKLPRU hhhh<br />
Černý slon F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 222 32 15 21, fax 222 31 03 51, slon@hotelcernyslon.cz,<br />
www.hotelcernyslon.cz. This elegant hotel rolls out<br />
the red carpet for all of its guests. Rooms, decorated with<br />
antique furniture, are spacious and some include an amazing<br />
view of the surrounding medieval centre. The wine cellar<br />
is also worth a peek. Q16 rooms (2 singles N73 - 113, 10<br />
doubles N117 - 190, 4 triples N153 - 223). AKLPR<br />
hhhh<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
Adria E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 26, MMůstek, tel.<br />
221 08 11 11, fax 221 08 13 00, accom@adria.cz, www.<br />
adria.cz. Look for the most beautiful 18th century building on<br />
Václavské náměstí. This is one of the most historic hotels in<br />
Prague, and after a thorough refit it is also one of the most<br />
modern. If the luxury rooms were not reason enough to stay<br />
there, then the fabulous Triton restaurant should be. Q88<br />
rooms (8 singles N106 - 135, 71 doubles N127 - 235, 5<br />
suites N160 - 285, 4 junior suites N139 - 255). ABGH<br />
KLPRUX hhhh<br />
Ametyst<br />
J-6, Praha 2, Jana Masaryka 11, MNám. Míru, tel. 222<br />
92 19 21, fax 222 92 19 99, mailbox@hotelametyst.cz,<br />
www.hotelametyst.cz. Nicknamed The Gallery, it has over<br />
450 paintings by Russian and Romanian artists on display,<br />
and a reputation as one of the more efficient hotels in Prague.<br />
Tucked away in a quiet section of Vinohrady but close to food<br />
and transport hubs and now with Wi-Fi throughout, this is<br />
a good low-key option. Q84 rooms (8 singles N85 - 155,<br />
69 doubles N105 - 215, 7 triples N130 - 265). ADGH<br />
KLPUW hhhh<br />
Andel’s Praha 5, Stroupežnického 21, MAnděl, tel.<br />
296 88 96 88, fax 296 88 99 99, info@andelshotel.com,<br />
www.andelshotel.com. Bang in the centre of the upmarket<br />
development west of the river, and just a few tramstops from<br />
the old town, the glittering facilities at Andel’s will blind you<br />
with their high-technicity. Top-notch accommodation with<br />
designer lines. Q231 rooms (singles N235 - 300, 223<br />
doubles N255 - 325, 8 suites N320 - 380). ADFGH<br />
KLPRTU hhhh<br />
angelo Hotel<br />
Praha 5, Radlická 1g/3216, MAnděl, tel. 234 80 11<br />
11, fax 234 80 99 99, info@angelohotel.com, www.<br />
angelohotel.com. Brightly coloured design and black and<br />
white photos abound in this buzzing hotel in the happening<br />
area around Anděl. Rooms and even suites are on the small<br />
side, but beds are King and all suites have a terrace. The hotel<br />
is designed for the businessman, but robes, TV & DVD afford<br />
pleasure-seekers some comfort too. The safe is notebooksized<br />
and has an interior plug for safe recharging. The lower<br />
price for a double room is single occupancy. Q168 rooms<br />
(163 doubles N140 - 255, 2 suites N200 - 300, 3 junior suite<br />
N180 - 280). PHARUFLGBKD hhhh<br />
April - May 2007<br />
21
22<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
Apostolic Residence<br />
E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 25, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 221 63 22 22, fax 221 63 22 04, apostolic@pragueresidence.cz,<br />
www.prague-residence.cz. You can’t get any<br />
closer to the Old Town with these rooms and apartments,<br />
right opposite the astronomical clock. Fabulous views beckon<br />
if you tire of your gorgeous, antique-filled room. Q14 rooms<br />
(13 doubles N153 - 320, 1 apartment N213 - 428). AB<br />
GKP6 hhhh<br />
Arcotel Teatrino K-4, Praha 3, Bořivojova 53, MJiřího<br />
z Poděbrad, tel. 221 42 21 11, fax 221 42 22 22,<br />
teatrino@arcotel.at, www.arcotel.at. This building was<br />
a theatre before becoming a hotel but then falling into disrepair.<br />
Reconstructed in 2000, the restaurant retains all the<br />
original features, including a full size stage and balcony boxes.<br />
Q73 rooms (21 singles N88 - 140, 52 doubles N107 - 183).<br />
ADFGHKL hhhh<br />
Astoria F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 10, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 221 77 57 11, fax 221 77 57 12, info@hotelastoria.cz,<br />
www.hotelastoria.cz. Astoria occupies a<br />
modern building on some prime real estate in Prague<br />
Old Town. Rooms are on the small side, but comfortable<br />
with bright blue interiors, modern wood furnishings and<br />
great views. Top-floor VIP rooms offer more amenities<br />
and enormous balconies. Q74 rooms (singles N99 -<br />
220, 74 doubles N99 - 240). AGHKLPRTU<br />
hhhh<br />
Barceló Praha<br />
Praha 4, Na Strži 32, MPankrác, tel. 296 77 21 11, fax<br />
241 44 10 23, hotel@barcelo.cz, www.barcelo.com.<br />
An excellent Spanish-owned hotel, this place has extremely<br />
friendly staff and small yet comfy rooms with minibar and<br />
telephone plus free parking in the garage. Q213 rooms<br />
(singles N130 - 150, 198 doubles N150 - 170, 15 suites N170<br />
- 240). AHKLPU hhhh<br />
Biskupský dům B-2, Praha 1, Dražického nám. 6,<br />
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 23 20, fax 257 53 18 40,<br />
biskup@ok.cz, www.starshotelsprague.com. Right at<br />
the Malá Strana end of Charles Bridge is this delightful 12th<br />
century Bishop’s House Hotel, comprised of two buildings in<br />
a quiet square. Rooms are elegant and full of antiques, as is<br />
only fitting, and the top floors have the characteristic sloping<br />
ceilings and beautiful views over the city. Q45 rooms (1<br />
single N116 - 210, 44 doubles N150 - 230). ABKLU<br />
hhhh<br />
BW Hotel Kampa B-4, Praha 1, Všehrdova 16,<br />
MMalostranská, tel. 257 40 44 44, fax 257 40 43<br />
33, fom@hotelkampa.cz, www.euroagentur.cz. In the<br />
heart of the cobbled beauty of Malá Strana, the halls and<br />
restaurant are a riot of colour and gallery for suits of armour<br />
and alarming swords. Thankfully the rooms are a little cooler<br />
in design. Q84 rooms (singles N118 - 200, doubles N150<br />
- 240, triples N185 - 250, extra bed N48 - 74). ABGH<br />
KLR hhhh<br />
BW Meteor Plaza I-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 6, MNám.<br />
Republiky, tel. 224 19 25 59, fax 224 22 06 81, reservation@hotel-meteor.cz,<br />
www.hotel-meteor.cz. Within<br />
shouting distance of the Powder Tower, this Best Western<br />
hotel is full of charm, but then again, there has been an inn<br />
here since 1307. In the 18th century, the man later to become<br />
Emperor Josef II wouldn’t lay his head down anywhere else.<br />
Q88 rooms (15 singles N109 - 173, 56 doubles N125 - 190,<br />
10 triples N166 - 239, 6 suites N141 - 217). ADFGH<br />
KLPR hhhh<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Carlton Praha 3, Táboritská 18, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel.<br />
222 71 11 77, fax 222 71 11 99, carlton@europehotels.<br />
cz, www.hotelcarlton.cz. Dark wood and deep green soft<br />
furnishings give a sophisticated air to the rooms. Bathrooms<br />
are luxurious, while the top floor rooms have vaulted, slanted<br />
ceilings and suites often go for the same price as a double. A<br />
little way out of town, the Carlton has good tram links. Q49<br />
rooms (3 singles N73 - 133, 40 doubles N97 - 180, 6 triples<br />
N120 - 223). AGHKLPRU hhhh<br />
Casa Marcello F-1, Praha 1, Řásnovka 3, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 222 31 12 30, fax 222 31 33 23, booking@<br />
casa-marcello.cz, www.casa-marcello.cz. This beautiful<br />
hotel alongside St. Agnes convent is a bit hard to find but<br />
well worth it, if only to have stayed on ‘Eyelashes Street.’ A<br />
good option for those who don’t want to stay where any old<br />
riffraff can just saunter in as they’re passing. Q32 rooms (20<br />
doubles N140 - 270, 6 apartments N250 - 390, 6 junior suites<br />
N190 - 330). ABDFGHKLPRT hhhh<br />
Clementin D-3, Praha 1, Seminářská 4, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 22 17 98, fax 222 22 17 68, hotel@clementin.<br />
cz, www.clementin.cz. A small, popular and cosy hotel<br />
high up near the castle, where the beautifully decorated<br />
ceilings are as impressive as the modern features. Antiques,<br />
wood and beautiful views mark the rooms, and their cellar<br />
restaurant serves up good Czech and international dishes.<br />
Q9 rooms (3 singles N100 - 155, 4 doubles N117 - 192, 2<br />
triples N140 - 240). AGKP hhhh<br />
Corinthia Panorama Praha 4, Milevská 7, MPankrác,<br />
tel. 261 16 11 11/261 16 60 61, fax 261 21 72 11,<br />
panorama@corinthia.cz, www.corinthia.cz. The second,<br />
albeit less exclusive Corinthia hotel in Prague still has excellent<br />
services and facilities in rooms and restaurants. The<br />
pool provides panoramic views of the city as one swims or<br />
lounges. Q450 rooms (118 singles N205 - 225, 321 doubles<br />
N205 - 225, triples N275 - 295, 1 presidential suite N1340,<br />
10 junior suites N410). ABCDFGHKLPRTU<br />
hhhh<br />
Courtyard Marriott Flora Praha 3, Lucemburská 46,<br />
MFlora, tel. 236 08 80 88, fax 236 08 80 89, www.marriott.com.<br />
Billed as hotels designed by business travellers,<br />
every room has a dataport and TV internet (both charged<br />
for standard rooms) and are spacious with desk, ergonomic<br />
chair and a sofa(bed). King size and very comfortable beds<br />
dominate rooms, haveice buckets, fridge for you to fill, hairdryer,<br />
coffee/tea facilities plus iron in every room and robe<br />
and slippers in superior rooms make the Courtyard a place to<br />
stay.Q161 rooms (81 singles N105 - 135, 64 doubles N135<br />
- 175, 13 triples N140 - 200, 1 suite N195 - 245). Breakfast<br />
€9-16. AFGHIKLPR6UW hhhh<br />
Crowne Plaza Praha 6, Koulova 15, MDejvická, tel.<br />
296 53 71 11, fax 296 53 75 35, hotel@crowneplaza.<br />
cz, www.crowneplaza.cz. Prior to its occupation by hoteliers,<br />
this building was HQ of the Czechoslovak military. Built<br />
in Stalinist Baroque style, it has friezes glorifying peasant<br />
labour. Inside, rooms are comfortable and spacious, if a little<br />
lacking in spirit. Rooms at the back overlook a large garden.<br />
Q254 rooms (11 singles N330, 221 doubles N340, 12 suites<br />
N370 - 380, 4 apartments N, 6 junior suites N435 - 445).<br />
ABDFGHKLPRT hhhh<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Domus Henrici Praha 1, Loretánská 11, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 220 51 13 69, fax 220 51 15 02, henrici@<br />
hidden-places.com, www.hidden-places.com. Literally on<br />
the castle doorstep, this stunning hotel has equally breathtaking<br />
views. All the interior furniture and décor is sleek and<br />
the manager seeks guest happiness. Discreet movie stars<br />
are known to have discovered this gem. Q8 rooms (singles<br />
N105 - 205, 4 doubles N120 - 240, 3 triples N160 - 280, 1<br />
quad N240 - 320). ABGHK hhhh<br />
Grand Hotel Praha E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám.<br />
22, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 63 25 56, fax 221 63 25<br />
58, info@grandhotelpraha.cz, www.grandhotelpraha.cz.<br />
Run by the Apostolic Residence crew, the neighbouring Grand<br />
Hotel is an equally sumptious place to stay, with suitably grand<br />
views over Old Town Square and classically furnished rooms.<br />
Q20 rooms (1 single N128 - 213, 18 doubles N153 - 320, 1<br />
apartment N356 - 463). ADKP6 hhhh<br />
Chateau St. Havel Praha 4, V podzámčí 1, tel. 241 44<br />
57 17, fax 241 44 57 21, info@chateauhotel.cz, www.<br />
chateauhotel.cz. The fabulous neo-Gothic Krč castle, south<br />
of Prague’s centre, houses this exclusive hotel. Originally<br />
a 13th century fortress, the building was remodelled into<br />
its current romantic form in the 1840s, and it still has an<br />
extensive English garden. From the elegant lobby with its<br />
cassette ceiling and the minimalist restaurant in the chapel<br />
to the regally-styled rooms, this place is certainly for for<br />
a king. Q34 rooms (34 doubles N79 - 149). AGH<br />
KLPR6T hhhh<br />
Jalta Praha F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 45,<br />
MMuzeum, tel. 222 82 21 11, fax 222 82 28 33, booking@hoteljalta.com,<br />
www.jalta.cz. The reception area,<br />
and especially the bathrooms, perpetuate a classy, retro<br />
feel. Fusion Asian cuisine is served in the HOT restaurant<br />
makes an interesting but not necessarily awkward contrast<br />
with the classic lines of the surroundings. Q94 rooms (89<br />
doubles N160 - 240, 5 suites N220 - 290). ABGH<br />
KLPRTU hhhh<br />
La Boutique G-6, Praha 5, Staropramenná 3, MAnděl,<br />
tel. 257 32 45 71, fax 257 32 34 04, bookings@laboutique.cz,<br />
www.laboutique.cz. The elegant rooms are<br />
luxuriously furnished with comfy beds, stylish carpets and oak<br />
furniture, with bathrooms equally sumptuous – think subtly<br />
gold walls, excellent showers and oak around the sinks. La<br />
Boutique is just across the river by tram or metro from the<br />
old town, in the upcoming Anděl district. Q39 rooms (22<br />
doubles N50 - 150, 8 apartments N40 - 140, 9 junior suite<br />
N60 - 180). AGKPW hhhh<br />
Liberty E-4, Praha 1, 28. října 11, MMůstek, tel.<br />
224 23 95 98, fax 224 23 76 94, info@hotelliberty.cz,<br />
www.hotelliberty.cz. The Liberty is a lovely, understated<br />
hotel with elegant furniture and textiles, plus all mod cons<br />
for today’s travellers. Some suites are split-level and views<br />
of the castle can be had. Q32 rooms (1 single N140 - 180,<br />
19 doubles N150 - 210, 9 triples N200 - 265, 3 suites N270<br />
- 310). ABDFGKLPRU hhhh<br />
Mövenpick Praha 5, Mozartova 261/1, MAnděl, tel.<br />
257 15 11 11, fax 257 15 31 31, hotel.prague@moevenpick.com,<br />
www.movenpick-prague.com. The hotel’s<br />
rooms are spacious and are decorated in a modern style.<br />
Take the funicular up the hill to the restaurant and function<br />
rooms with outstanding views of the city. Q502 rooms (436<br />
doubles N205 - 225, 38 triples N263, 22 suites N350 - 370, 6<br />
junior suites N350 - 370). ABDFGHKLPRTU<br />
hhhh<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
April - May 2007<br />
23
24<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
Maria Prag I-4, Praha 1, Opletalova 21, MMuzeum, tel.<br />
222 21 12 29/222 24 02 29, maria.prag@falkensteiner.<br />
com, www.falkensteiner.com. From a rather chilly greeting<br />
at the front desk, the other staff prove as friendly as the<br />
décor is stylishly designed. Warm rooms have minibar and<br />
a safe in a decidedly Japanese theme, with draped cloth,<br />
corner sofas and ingenious light fixtures. The hotel chain’s<br />
resort theme is shown here in the prints on the wall and the<br />
small but gorgeous wellness spa in the basement. Lovely.<br />
Q109 rooms (singles N158 - 222, 109 doubles N168 - 232).<br />
ADFGKLPR hhhh<br />
Maximillian F-2, Praha 1, Haštalská 14, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 225 30 31 11, fax 225 30 31 10, reservations@<br />
maximilianhotel.com, www.maximilianhotel.com. A<br />
beautiful hotel has been improved upon with an aesthetically-pleasing<br />
fusion of contemporary, art deco, light, wood,<br />
chrome and more. Luxury (floatation tanks and Sabai Thai<br />
massage on site) and elegance (Philippe Starck bathtubs and<br />
the best mod cons). Simply delightful, darling. Q71 rooms<br />
(6 singles N133 - 253, 64 doubles N148 - 296, 1 suite N298<br />
- 398). AGHKPRUW hhhh<br />
Metamorphis F-3, Praha 1, Malá Štupartská 5,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 221 77 10 11, fax 221 77 10 99, hotel@<br />
metamorphis.cz, www.metamorphis.cz. This charming<br />
hotel is tucked away in Týnsky dvůr, one of the most picturesque<br />
squares in the Old Town. In keeping with the locale, the<br />
interior is just lovely: all chandeliers and antique beds in the<br />
bedrooms. However, things get a bit garish in the restaurant<br />
downstairs. Q24 rooms (singles N156 - 229, 19 doubles<br />
N166 - 239, 3 suites N186 - 269, 2 apartments N186 - 269).<br />
ABGHKLPR hhhh<br />
Mucha J-3, Praha 8, Sokolovská 26, MFlorenc, tel.<br />
222 31 90 47, fax 224 81 66 41, mucha@avetravel.cz,<br />
www.avehotels.cz. From the relaxed radio-filled lobby to<br />
the elegant antique-filled rooms, Mucha’s fabulous art deco<br />
work is very much in evidence, while friendly staff adds to the<br />
experience. Religious art seems to be favoured décor in some<br />
rooms. Benefiting price-wise for its slightly out-of-the-way<br />
location, it is still exceedingly central. Q38 rooms (3 singles<br />
N114 - 203, 29 doubles N136 - 238, 6 triples N163 - 286, 1<br />
quad N188 - 349). ADFHKPRU hhhh<br />
Novotel Praha City I-6, Praha 2, Kateřinská 38, MI.P.<br />
Pavlova, tel. 221 10 49 99, fax 221 10 48 88, h3194@<br />
accor-hotels.com, www.accor-hotels.com. A quality<br />
Novotel hotel in a peaceful side street, at walking distance<br />
or a few stops by tram from the Old Town. Expect modern,<br />
functional rooms, a bar and restaurant and good business<br />
services. Q146 rooms (145 triples N134 - 181, 1 suite<br />
N295). ABCDFGHKLPRTU hhhh<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Prague Inn E-4, Praha 1, 28. října 15, MMůstek, tel.<br />
226 01 44 44, fax 226 01 45 55, hotel@hotelpragueinn.<br />
cz, www.hotelpragueinn.cz. Décor in rooms has a funky<br />
Japanese feel in a Tarantino kind of way. Low beds and tables,<br />
smoked glass doors, clean simple interiors make a cool atmosphere.<br />
Minibar and safe in all rooms, plus a massive labyrinth<br />
of a bar and restaurant downstairs. Q34 rooms (singles<br />
N110 - 210, 32 doubles N110 - 220, triples N150 - 250, 2<br />
apartments N240 - 385). AGKLPRU hhhh<br />
Ramada Grand Hotel Symphony I-4, Praha 1, Václavské<br />
nám. 41, MMuzeum, tel. 221 45 41 11, fax<br />
221 45 44 45, reception@ramadaprague.com, www.<br />
euroagentur.cz. International-quality rooms decked out in<br />
fresh colours in a new, modern hotel. The rooms, stacked<br />
in six floors above a huge bookshop, face lively Václavské<br />
náměstí or a calm courtyard. Q96 rooms (singles N150<br />
- 240, doubles N160 - 250, 9 apartments N192 - 295, extra<br />
bed N48 - 80). AGHKLPRU hhhh<br />
Rezidence Lundborg C-1, Praha 1, U Lužického<br />
semináře 3, MMalostranská, tel. 257 01 19 11, fax<br />
257 01 19 66, rezidence@lundborg.cz, www.lundborg.<br />
cz. It took over a year to renovate this old house to a perfect<br />
balance between the historic, and the best of the present<br />
day. Judith Bridge, precursor to that teenaged Charles Bridge,<br />
makes up the floor and walls of the café. Jacuzzis and full<br />
PC/internet packages are found in every apartment. Q13<br />
rooms (4 suites N170 - 250, 6 apartments N220 - 750, 3 junior<br />
suites N160 - 240). ABGHKPR hhhh<br />
Roma B-4, Praha 1, Újezd 24, MAnděl, tel. 257 32 68<br />
90, fax 257 32 10 95, recepe@hotelroma.cz, www.hotelroma.cz.<br />
The tram and tourist bustle of Ujezd is left behind<br />
immediately on entering the atrium lobby of the Roma. Deep<br />
leather couches, subdued lighting and a shark swimming<br />
lazily around its large tank are an appropriate introduction to<br />
the classically minimalist rooms. Q87 rooms (74 doubles<br />
N128 - 157, 8 suites N171 - 202, 5 junior suites N149 - 179).<br />
ADFGKLPR hhhh<br />
Seven Days I-5, Praha 2, Žitná 46, MI.P. Pavlova, tel.<br />
222 92 31 11, fax 222 92 32 22, info@hotelsevendays.<br />
cz, www.hotelsevendays.cz. Enter the opulent lobby of this<br />
new hotel and be greeted not only by the doorman, but also<br />
by chubby cherubs looking down on you from above. Pink<br />
and white are popular colours here – like living in a perpetual<br />
Valentine’s Day – but the rooms are decorated with more<br />
conservative and elegant greens and golds. Check out the<br />
attic fitness centre. Q50 rooms (44 doubles N125 - 225, 2<br />
suites N285 - 405, 4 junior suites N220 - 320). ADFG<br />
KLPRT hhhh<br />
Sieber K-5, Praha 3, Slezská 55, MNám. Míru, tel.<br />
224 25 00 25, fax 224 25 00 27, reservations@sieber.<br />
cz, www.sieber.cz. Business hotels often lack charm, but<br />
Sieber defies the rules by not only offering generously sized<br />
rooms, but also by adding those important extras like chocolates<br />
and fresh fruit in each room. Q20 rooms (13 doubles<br />
N99 - 165, 3 suites N139 - 189, 4 junior suites N129 - 178).<br />
AGHKLP hhhh<br />
Trinidad C-1, Praha 1, U Železné lávky 14, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 01 87, fax 257 53 02 10, residence@trinidad.cz,<br />
www.trinidad.cz. Florid luxury apartments with views<br />
of the castle or cosy rooms in this faux-antique plush place with<br />
all the amenities you’d expect from a hotel plus a Caribbean<br />
themed restaurant and bar. Q18 rooms (1 single N60 - 135,<br />
10 doubles N70 - 165, triples N80 - 200, 3 suites N80 - 145, 4<br />
apartments N100 - 270). ABGKP hhhh<br />
U Brány A-2, Praha 1, Nerudova 21, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 257 53 12 27/257 53 40 50, fax 257 53 27 67,<br />
info@ubrany.cz, www.ubrany.cz. Sleep alongside the<br />
president at this comfy hotel just down from the castle. The<br />
rooms are all large, yet manage a certain degree of coziness<br />
due to the décor’s concentration on dark woods and earth<br />
tones. Q17 rooms (3 singles N100 - 150, 3 doubles N117<br />
- 177, 4 triples N133 - 210, 3 quads N133 - 217, 3 suites N133<br />
- 217, 1 apartment N200 - 283). AHKL hhhh<br />
U Krále Karla A-2, Praha 1, Úvoz 4, MMalostranská, tel.<br />
257 53 12 11, fax 257 53 35 91, ukrale@iol.cz, www.<br />
romantichotels.cz. This family-run hotel in what was a Gothic<br />
building belonging to Benedictine monks offers the modern<br />
service you would expect, along with stunning décor. Q19<br />
rooms (singles N127 - 220, 16 doubles N125 - 248, triples N189<br />
- 293, 3 suites N269 - 282). AKP hhhh<br />
U Páva C-2, Praha 1, U Lužického semináře 32,<br />
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 33 60, fax 257 53 09 19,<br />
upava@romantichotels.cz, www.romantichotels.cz. The<br />
Peacock is situated on Kampa Island and has discreet but<br />
opulent service. All suites have a view of the castle. Q27<br />
rooms (singles N153 - 223, 19 doubles N160 - 240, 8 suites<br />
N250 - 273). AGHKPRU hhhh<br />
U tří pštrosů B-2, Praha 1, Dražického nám. 12,<br />
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 24 10, fax 257 53 32 17,<br />
www.upstrosu.cz. Nestled in a beautiful building under<br />
Karlův most. In the 15th century, this was Prague’s first<br />
coffee house and it was also one of the first hotels to really<br />
take off after the Velvet Revolution. Gaze upon a medieval<br />
fresco when you rest. Q18 rooms (5 singles N120 - 230,<br />
10 doubles N155 - 265, 3 suites N195 - 305, extra bed N38).<br />
ABGHKLPR hhhh<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
U Zlaté studně B-1, Praha 1, U Zlaté studně 166,<br />
MMalostranská, tel. 257 01 12 13, fax 257 53 33 20,<br />
hotel@zlatastudna.cz, www.zlatastudna.cz. Sumptuous<br />
rooms are set in an antique house on a fairy-tale street<br />
just below the castle. The restaurant on the top floor offers<br />
fantastic panoramic vistas. Q20 rooms (17 doubles N162<br />
- 237, 2 suites N232 - 330, 1 junior suite N195 - 263). AB<br />
GKPR hhhh<br />
Waldstein<br />
B-1, Praha 1, Valdštejnské nám. 6, MMalostranská, tel.<br />
257 53 39 38, fax 257 53 19 73, waldstein@avetravel.<br />
cz, www.avehotels.cz. This charming hotel has an excellent<br />
location for exploring the castle and Staré Město. The beautiful<br />
rooms have antique furniture and breakfast is served in a<br />
renaissance cellar. The hotel also has two excellent cheaper<br />
annexes nearby. The lower prices for doubles are for single<br />
occupancy. Q15 rooms (9 doubles N160 - 343, 6 triples<br />
N207 - 356). A hhhh<br />
Yasmin<br />
F-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 12, MMuzeum, tel.<br />
234 10 01 00, fax 234 10 01 01, info@hotel-yasmin.<br />
cz, www.hotel-yasmin.cz. This fabulous designer hotel is<br />
all very tactile, with sleek furniture, jasmine flowers etched<br />
along floors and glass dividers, silver globes hanging from<br />
the ceiling and odd furry and smooth triffid-like objects towering<br />
over you. A subtle green dominates the room colour,<br />
each has a huge mirror so you can look as good as it does,<br />
flat screen TVs, all mod cons and rooms in the newer annex<br />
have skylights while the suite boasts a walk-in closet. Some<br />
rooms have no shower, tub only so check if you care. Q198<br />
rooms (187 doubles N220 - 280, 11 suites N260 - 340).<br />
ADFGHKLPR6U hhhh<br />
April - May 2007<br />
25
26<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
Zlatá hvězda A-2, Praha 1, Nerudova 48, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 28 67, fax 257 53 36 24, hvezda@<br />
ok.cz, www.hotelgoldenstar.com. Rooms at this beautiful<br />
hotel look onto the bulwark of the castle or down Nerudova<br />
to the Vltava. Rooms with a five in them are the best (on<br />
the corner with large bathrooms and the best views) but for<br />
honeymooners, it has to be room 25. Q26 rooms (1 single<br />
N116 - 210, 23 doubles N130 - 260, 2 suites N163 - 276).<br />
ABKLPU hhhh<br />
Mid-Range<br />
Adalbert Praha 6, Markétská 1, tel. 220 40 61 80, fax<br />
220 40 61 90, office@hoteladalbert.cz, www.hoteladalbert.cz.<br />
Serenely nestled in the calm buildings and gardens<br />
of the Břevnov monastery is a delightful hotel of understated<br />
elegance in the furnishings, chocolate coins on pillows and<br />
polite staff. Hear chanting in the church and sleep where under<br />
Communism the Secret Police lived to keep an eye on these<br />
‘subversive’ monks. Q23 rooms (7 singles N75 - 105, 12<br />
doubles N97 - 132, 2 triples N134 - 167, 1 suite N140 - 170, 1<br />
apartment N169 - 202). AGHKLR6UW hhh<br />
Anna J-5, Praha 2, Budečská 17, MNám. Míru, tel. 222<br />
51 31 11, fax 222 51 51 58, reception@hotelanna.cz,<br />
www.hotelanna.cz. Part of the Small Charming group, and<br />
the Anna is just that. A real gem, with first class services and<br />
a homely atmosphere that caters to a thoughtful clientele<br />
looking for something a little special. Q24 rooms (8 singles<br />
N63 - 77, 10 doubles N83 - 103, 4 triples N110 - 130, 2 suites<br />
N120 - 140). AGRT hhh<br />
Aparthotel Amadeus Praha 3, Dalimilova 10, MFlóra,<br />
tel. 224 22 57 69, fax 224 23 86 47, info@ckvesta.cz,<br />
www.ckvesta.cz. Neat and tidy modern apartments offered<br />
on the lower end of the price spectrum because they don’t<br />
offer too many facilities, but on the whole an attractively<br />
priced option. Q54 rooms (2 singles N42 - 87, 28 doubles<br />
N55 - 110, 10 triples N68 - 126, 4 quads N84 - 138, 10 apartments<br />
N90 - 170). AKLU hhh<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Archibald City<br />
I-5, Praha 1, Žitná 33, MKarlovo nám., tel. 234 65 28 00,<br />
fax 234 65 28 10, zitna@archibald.cz, www.archibald.<br />
cz. Seven floors of identikit rooms, but the Archibald is good<br />
in its class. Rooms contain all the conveniences you want in<br />
your home from home, plus double-glazing ensures all are<br />
sound proofed from the busy thoroughfare. Multi-lingual,<br />
friendly and efficient staff rounds off a pleasing though sterile<br />
experience. The cheaper price is for single use. Q79 rooms<br />
(2 singles N99 - 130, 72 doubles N99 - 160, 5 triples N129<br />
- 190). AHKLPRTU hhhh<br />
Ariston K-4, Praha 3, Seifertova 65, MHlavní nádraží,<br />
tel. 222 78 25 17/222 78 11 87, fax 222 78 03 47,<br />
ariston@europehotels.cz, www.hotelariston.cz. Rooms<br />
at the Ariston are light and pastel coloured. Although it may<br />
seem far from the centre, it’s just a couple of tram stops away.<br />
Q61 rooms (4 singles N50 - 100, 44 doubles N70 - 133, 12<br />
triples N90 - 140, 1 suite N93 - 187). AGHKU hhh<br />
Atlantic I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 9, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 224 81 10 84, fax 224 81 23 78, info@hotel-atlantic.<br />
cz, www.hotel-atlantic.cz. This hotel is on a site that was<br />
a roadside inn in the 17th century. Today that road is a bit<br />
noisier, so if you are a fitful sleeper, ask for a room at the<br />
back. The Atlantic has renovated its interiors which are now<br />
sleek, chic and classy. Excellent value for being so close to<br />
the Old Town. Q88 rooms (9 singles N73 - 110, 52 doubles<br />
N97 - 129, 25 triples N112 - 158, 2 quads N141 - 187).<br />
AGHKLRU hhh<br />
Belvedere I-1, Praha 7, Milady Horákové 19, MVltavská,<br />
tel. 220 10 61 11, fax 233 37 23 68, prague@<br />
belvedere-hotel.com, www.hotelbelvedere.cz. Situated<br />
in a lovely area across the Vltava, not far from the castle, the<br />
Belvedere offers wonderful accommodation and a high level<br />
of service. The spacious three-star standard rooms come<br />
with as many mod cons as you could ever need, and the fourstar<br />
executive floor has even more on offer. Q152 rooms (6<br />
singles N53 - 88, 113 doubles N71 - 118, 32 triples N89 - 148,<br />
1 quad N89 - 148). AGHKLU hhhh<br />
Beránek I-6, Praha 2, Bělehradská 110, MI.P. Pavlova,<br />
tel. 221 59 59 00, fax 221 59 59 61, info@hotelberanek.com,<br />
www.hotelberanek.com. Simple furniture in<br />
well appointed rooms which all have TV, hair dryers, fridge,<br />
safe, phone and Wi-Fi. The glass lift looks out over the<br />
back courtyard and isn’t for the faint-hearted. Q80 rooms<br />
(singles N50 - 70, 80 doubles N80 - 110, triples N110 - 145).<br />
AGHKLPUW hhh<br />
Centrál F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 8, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 224 81 27 34, fax 222 32 84 04, central@orfea.<br />
cz, www.orfea.cz. Part of this hotel has been renovated,<br />
with quiet rooms in subtle green pastel colours. There are<br />
no TVs in rooms, but the Centrál is crawling-distance from<br />
Staroměstské nám., there are friendly and multilingual staff<br />
and the hotel allows dogs to stay. Q71 rooms (1 single<br />
N87 - 143, 55 doubles N114 - 166, 15 triples N132 - 184).<br />
AKL hhh<br />
City Pension J-6, Praha 2, Záhřebská 16, MNám. Míru,<br />
tel./fax 222 52 24 22, hotel@citybell.cz, www.hotelcitybell.cz.<br />
Spacious, simple yet comfortable rooms have shared<br />
(economy) and private (classic) bathrooms, satellite TV and<br />
telephones. Two economy rooms share a bathroom and can<br />
be taken as an apartment. The cheaper double is for single<br />
occupancy. Q23 rooms (4 singles N52 - 65, 8 doubles N65<br />
- 86, 4 triples N86 - 95, 2 quads N95 - 103, 5 apartments<br />
N103 - 114). AGLR hhh<br />
Clarion F-2, Praha 1, Hradební 9, MNám. Republiky, tel.<br />
296 39 81 00, fax 296 39 81 50, clarion.recepce@fortunahotels.cz,<br />
www.clarionhotel.cz. Well refurbished interior<br />
and building facing the Vltava. This Choice Hotels International<br />
hotel offers well appointed rooms with all amenities of a four star<br />
hotel. It is central, pets are welcome, there are good services<br />
for business clients and the price is excellent. Q93 rooms<br />
(18 singles N104 - 166, 72 doubles N115 - 185, 3 suites N127<br />
- 203, apartments N138 - 222). AHK hhhh<br />
Claris J-4, Praha 2, Slezská 26, MNám. Míru, tel. 222<br />
51 31 11, fax 242 44 61 12, reception@hotel-claris.cz,<br />
www.hotel-claris.cz. Set in the coveted Vinohrady district,<br />
Claris offers two floors of light, spacious and affordable rooms.<br />
It’s just minutes away from the nám. Miru trams and metro<br />
station, or a 15-minute stroll into the centre, but you’ll also<br />
find many good restaurant options in the immediate neighbourhood.<br />
Q24 rooms (2 singles N66 - 79, 22 doubles N86<br />
- 106). AGKLPR hhh<br />
Cloister Inn D-4, Praha 1, Konviktská 14, MNárodní<br />
třída, tel. 224 21 10 20, fax 224 21 08 00, cloister@<br />
cloister-inn.com, www.cloister-inn.com. You might be<br />
forgiven for imagining a monastic enclave of tranquillity - but<br />
what you get is a perfectly reasonable, modern hotel, just a<br />
few minutes walk from Karlův most. Q75 rooms (3 singles<br />
N106 - 146, 63 doubles N113 - 153, 9 triples N130 - 170).<br />
AGHLPU hhh<br />
Elysee F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 43, MMůstek, tel.<br />
221 45 51 11, fax 224 22 57 73, elysee@europehotels.<br />
cz, www.hotelelysee.cz. Right in the centre of the city, with<br />
all of Prague’s main attractions just a few minutes walk away.<br />
All rooms are well-appointed, spacious, and have luxurious<br />
bathrooms. Q70 rooms (8 singles N73 - 133, 50 doubles<br />
N96 - 180, 12 triples N120 - 223). AGLPU hhh<br />
Evropa F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 25, MMůstek,<br />
tel. 224 22 81 17, fax 224 22 45 44, info@evropahotel.<br />
cz, www.evropahotel.cz. Amazing... from the outside. The<br />
1905 Art Nouveau façade is the most beautiful on Václavské<br />
náměstí, and the café is lovely. However, the rooms (including<br />
the faux Louis 16th suites) are distinctively scruffy-looking,<br />
some downright shabby furniture and creaky floors. The<br />
cheaper rooms share facilities in the corridor. Q85 rooms<br />
(13 singles N57 - 107, 41 doubles N92 - 142, 26 triples N110<br />
- 178, 5 quads N240). AKL hh<br />
Extol Inn Praha 7, Přístavní 2, MNádraží Holešovice,<br />
tel. 220 87 65 41, fax 220 80 67 52, info@extolinn.cz,<br />
www.extolinn.cz. Extol’s main clientele is businessmen,<br />
but the large hot tub, gym and sauna make it a good spot to<br />
bring the wife too. Rooms are more like small suites, 3 star<br />
versions have satellite TV, a minibar, telephone and hairdryer.<br />
2 star rooms have none of above but are the same clean,<br />
bright quality. An excellent option, with friendly staff, good<br />
restaurant and, should you need it, an atomic bunker. Q50<br />
rooms (10 singles N46, 22 doubles N71 - 83, 18 triples N92).<br />
ABDFGHKLPU hhh<br />
Green Garden I-6, Praha 2, Fügnerovo nám. 4, MI.P.<br />
Pavlova, tel. 224 26 11 81, fax 224 26 22 14, hotelgreengarden@ti.cz,<br />
www.hotelgreengarden.cz. Prices<br />
are a bit steep for this hotel sandwiched between the two<br />
busiest roads in Prague, but the staff are helpful and the<br />
rooms are comfortable. Just don’t overdo the bar then<br />
attempt to traverse the main three lane highway to Brno.<br />
Q55 rooms (10 singles N66 - 106, 30 doubles N80 - 133,<br />
10 triples N97 - 150, 5 apartments N113 - 167). ADH<br />
KLU hhh<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
KAVALÍR<br />
AMOUR<br />
RESIDENCE CARLTON<br />
CENTRAL<br />
RESERVATIONS:<br />
tel: +420 220 106 369<br />
e-mail: booking@europehotels.cz<br />
www.europehotels.cz<br />
APPIA<br />
BELVEDERE ELYSEE<br />
MLÝN<br />
KARLŠTEJN<br />
ARISTON MARKÉTA<br />
ARISTON<br />
PATIO<br />
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One click for easy booking<br />
more than 500 rooms.<br />
April - May 2007<br />
27
28<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
Haštal Hotel F-2, Praha 1, Haštalská 16, tel. 222 31<br />
43 35, fax 222 31 43 36, info@hastal.com, www.hastal.<br />
com. This has been a family-run hotel since 1912 (except<br />
during the communist years) in a beautiful 1850 building<br />
that was originally a brewery. With rooms facing St. Agnes<br />
Convent or the rear courtyard, this is a perfectly located, quiet<br />
hotel. Refurbished but retaining some charm, the rooms are<br />
simple and comfortable with satellite TV, phone, minibar and<br />
hairdryer. Q24 rooms (4 singles N75 - 102, 20 doubles N92<br />
- 154). ABGJKLR hhh<br />
Hotel 16 I-6, Praha 2, Kateřinská 16, MI. P. Pavlova,<br />
tel. 224 92 06 36, fax 224 92 06 26, hotel16@hotel16.<br />
cz, www.hotel16.cz. Small, functional and very friendly.<br />
Hotel 16 actually has 13 clean rooms to offer just behind<br />
the small Botanical Gardens, which is actually a far less<br />
glamorous location than it sounds although it is a pleasant,<br />
understated place to rest your head. Q13 rooms (2 singles<br />
N76 - 83, 5 doubles N103 - 113, 6 junior suites N116 - 153).<br />
ABGHKLPTU hhh<br />
Hotel Anděl Praha 5, Radlická 40/857, MAnděl, tel.<br />
251 17 13 10, fax 251 17 13 90, info@hotelandel.com,<br />
www.hotelandel.cz. A homely, quiet hotel by the railway<br />
station and opposite the Staropramen brewery. Fear not,<br />
double glazing keeps the noise out of the sunny, well appointed<br />
rooms although you should take a rear courtyard<br />
facing room if you are a light sleeper. Minibar, hair dryer<br />
etc. are standard in their not-so-standard rooms – this is a<br />
converted 1898 residential building so all rooms are unique;<br />
the owner is an architect. Staff are friendly and multilingual.<br />
Q31 rooms (31 singles 2000 - 3450Kč, 31 doubles 2700<br />
- 4350Kč, 31 triples 3000 - 4950Kč, extra bed 300 - Kč).<br />
AGKLP6T hhh<br />
NEW<br />
Hotel Páv H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 13, MKarlovo<br />
náměstí, tel. 221 50 21 11, fax 221 50 22 23, reception@hotel-pav.cz,<br />
www.hotel-pav.cz. Prague is blessed<br />
with another Small Charming Hotel, this time in the New Town,<br />
where three buildings have been merged and beautifully reconstructed<br />
to incorporate classical elements with modern<br />
lines. And it is very minimalist: no prints on the walls and<br />
muted wood and beige interior. All rooms have twin beds, a<br />
safe, minibar, desk, TV and free Wi-Fi. Pets are welcome and<br />
the lower double price is for single occupancy. Q82 rooms<br />
(78 doubles 54 - 80Kč, 4 junior suites). PARUKW<br />
Ibis Praha Smíchov Praha 5, Plzeňská 14, MAnděl,<br />
tel. 221 70 17 00, fax 221 70 18 00, www.ibishotel.<br />
com. The third Ibis for Prague gives their usual room rates<br />
and facilities in the ever-growing and trendier by the day<br />
area around Anděl. Hard working staff keep smiling and<br />
converse freely in a number of languages. The lobby bar is<br />
busy, which is very uncommon in hotels. An excellent choice<br />
for a comfortable stay across the river. Oh, and your pets are<br />
welcome too. Q228 rooms (singles N64 - 84, 214 doubles<br />
N76 - 96, 12 triples N88 - 108, 2 suites N154). AGH<br />
KLPRTU hhh<br />
INOS Praha 4, Sinkulova 23, tel. 241 43 04 61, fax 241 43<br />
04 60, ww.hotelinos.com. A hotel in residential Prague, the<br />
INOS sits just back from the river below Prague’s second castle,<br />
Vyšehrad. Rooms are comfortable but without many luxuries.<br />
The suite proves to be the best value, breakfast is included and<br />
the website’s driving directions make this a good spot if you<br />
tend to get lost arriving in a foreign city. The cheaper price in<br />
the double room is for single occupancy. Q33 rooms (singles<br />
N40 - 75, 24 doubles N50 - 90, 7 triples N60 - 100, 1 quad N70<br />
- 110, 1 suite N75 - 125). AGKLPR hhh<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Still no room at the inn?<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Julián G-5, Praha 5, Elišky Peškové 11, MAnděl, tel.<br />
257 31 11 44, fax 257 31 11 49, casjul@vol.cz, www.<br />
julian.cz. A pleasant place to rest your weary head as the<br />
rooms (although on the small side) are well-appointed, the<br />
staff are friendly and it is close to the centre. Good for the<br />
business traveller as extras include a British-style sitting<br />
room to relax in after a hard day of meetings. Q32 rooms<br />
(2 singles N80, 17 doubles N90, 11 triples N110, 2 suites<br />
N120). ADFGHKLPRTU hhh<br />
Kavalír Praha 5, Plzeňská 177, MAnděl, tel. 257 21 65<br />
65, fax 257 21 00 85, kavalir@europehotels.cz, www.<br />
hotel-kavalir.cz. A completely refurbished three star hotel<br />
on the main street of Praha 5 with quick and easy access to<br />
the city centre, the Kavalír has lovely rooms. Q50 rooms (2<br />
singles N46 - 80, 39 doubles N60 - 106, 9 triples N77 - 133).<br />
AKLP hhh<br />
Luník J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 50, MNám. Míru, tel.<br />
224 25 39 74, fax 224 25 39 86, info@hotel-lunik.cz,<br />
www.hotel-lunik.cz. A family run hotel with well equipped<br />
if rather sterile rooms. All have bathrooms, satellite TV and<br />
phones - free internet is available in the lobby. A well-priced<br />
hotel in a good neighbourhood and close to the centre. Your<br />
child costs an extra 200Kč, your dog only 100Kč. Q35<br />
rooms (3 singles N57 - 88, 23 doubles N80 - 121, 9 triples<br />
N92 - 139). ABGHKLRT hhh<br />
Na Zlatém kříži E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám.<br />
762/2, MMůstek, tel. 224 21 95 01, fax 222 24 54 18,<br />
info@goldencross.cz, www.goldencross.cz. A relaxed,<br />
pleasing and simply decorated hotel in a beautiful old building.<br />
It gets only three stars because rooms have the original (and<br />
infinitely preferable) wooden floors rather than carpet, while<br />
the Gothic breakfast cellar make this one of the best deals<br />
in the centre. Q8 rooms (4 doubles N100 - 140, 4 suites<br />
N137 - 155). AG hhh<br />
Salvator I-3, Praha 1, Truhlářská 10, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 222 31 22 34, fax 222 31 63 55, hotel@salvator.<br />
cz, www.salvator.cz. This courtyard-centred hotel is conveniently<br />
located, well-priced and friendly, so it’s often full. If you<br />
don’t mind sharing a bathroom you have a better chance of<br />
getting on the guest list. Q34 rooms (17 singles N57 - 107,<br />
17 doubles N28 - 53, 10 triples N24 - 41, 7 suites N27 - 38).<br />
ABKLRT hhh<br />
Sax A-2, Praha 1, Jánský vršek 3, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 12 68, fax 257 53 41 01, hotel@sax.cz,<br />
www.sax.cz. You won’t be surrounded by the crowds here.<br />
This small operation is tucked behind the embassy quarter.<br />
Functional rather than fine, but the staff is very friendly. Q22<br />
rooms (2 singles N94 - 124, 17 doubles N117 - 147, 3 suites<br />
N135 - 170). AGKPU hhh<br />
Tříska K-5, Praha 3, Vinohradská 105, MJiřího z<br />
Poděbrad, tel. 222 72 73 13, fax 222 72 35 62, info@<br />
hotel-triska.cz, www.hotel-triska.cz. This medium-sized<br />
hotel has been open since 1996 but was renovated in late<br />
2000. The décor is a bit rich for some tastes, but the rooms<br />
are comfortable and the staff friendly. Q57 rooms (singles<br />
N43 - 63, 4 doubles N57 - 77, 12 triples N82 - 105, 5 quads<br />
N99 - 133). GHKLRU hhh<br />
Tchaikovsky I-6, Praha 1, Ke Karlovu 19, MI. P.<br />
Pavlova, tel. 224 91 21 21, fax 224 91 21 23, visit@<br />
hoteltchaikovsky.com, www.hoteltchaikovsky.com.<br />
On a quiet street, this hotel has friendly staff and stylishlyfurnished,<br />
spacious rooms. All rooms have doors opening<br />
onto a balcony hall, which overlooks a garden, where you<br />
can while away some time watching cats stalk birds. Q19<br />
rooms (singles N55 - 106, 15 doubles N73 - 119, 4 triples<br />
N88 - 143). AGR hhh<br />
U Žluté boty A-2, Praha 1, Jánský vršek 11, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 22 69/257 53 41 96, fax 257 53<br />
41 34, hotel@zlutabota.cz, www.zlutabota.cz. The seven<br />
delightful rooms at U žluté boty run the gamut of styles from<br />
Scandinavian chic and Central European rustic to refined antique.<br />
Q9 rooms (1 single N93 - 123, 6 doubles N110 - 140,<br />
1 triple N133 - 163, 1 suite N157 - 187). ABGK hhh<br />
U Klenotníka E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 3, MMůstek, tel.<br />
224 21 16 99, fax 224 22 10 25, info@uklenotnika.<br />
cz, www.uklenotnika.cz. Modern(ish) rooms in an old<br />
house are a bargain at this price because this is as central<br />
as one can possibly get in Prague. Q11 rooms (3 singles<br />
N70 - 100, 3 doubles N85 - 130, 5 triples N100 - 160).<br />
AGPR hhh<br />
U Tří korunek Praha 3, Cimburkova 28, MFlóra, tel.<br />
222 78 11 12, fax 222 78 01 89, hotel@3korunky.cz,<br />
www.3korunky.cz. The greatest benefit to staying in this<br />
small, reconstructed hotel located in the old part of Žižkov<br />
seems to be its close proximity to an abundance of cheap<br />
pubs and the fabulously abstract modernist furniture, which<br />
combines beautifully with wood panelling. Q58 rooms<br />
(singles N50 - 77, 49 doubles N63 - 117, 9 triples N80 - 150).<br />
AGKLU hhh<br />
U Zlatého jelena E-3, Praha 1, Štupartská 6,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 31 72 37, fax 222 31 86 93,<br />
u.jelena@beetle-tour.cz, www.beetle-tour.cz/jelen. A<br />
wonderful pension tucked away in a courtyard behind Týn<br />
Church; friendly, good value and with some delicious extras.<br />
Rooms are antique and wrought-iron filled. The bathrooms<br />
are luxurious with jacuzzis in a couple of the rooms, a popular<br />
choice for romancing couples. Q14 rooms (14 doubles N81<br />
- 118). AK hhh<br />
Apartments<br />
NEW<br />
Amour Hotel Residence B-2, Praha 1, Malostranské<br />
nám. 5, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 55 78, fax 257 53 55<br />
79, amour@europehotels.cz, www.europehotels.cz. Historical<br />
charm and luxurious hospitality in the heart of Malá Strana.<br />
Four buildings dating from 1404 host suites with all mod cons<br />
including washing machines in some. Wooden floors and furniture<br />
complement the original timbers. Orchids and black and white<br />
photography reflect the classical feel of this delightful residence.<br />
Q9 rooms (3 doubles 3100 - 6100Kč, 4 quads 3800 - 7200Kč,<br />
2 apartments 4500 - 8500Kč). PTARGW<br />
Apart Karee J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 43, MNám. Míru,<br />
tel. 222 21 08 08, fax 222 21 08 09, karee@seznam.cz,<br />
www.karee.cz. A new, lovely location in leafy Vinohrady, far<br />
from the staggering crowds of Old Town, this reconstructed<br />
building has kept its old world charm, vaulted ceilings and<br />
ancient staircase, and added ten apartments which, while not<br />
luxurious, are well equipped and comfortable. Same facilities<br />
in all apartments, the only difference being castle views and<br />
Wi-Fi in the Superior category. Q10 rooms (10 apartments<br />
N80 - 240). ABGHKLW hhh<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
Apartments in Prague A-2, Praha 1, Vlašská 8,<br />
MMalostranská, tel. 608 22 89 99/251 51 25 02, info@<br />
painfo.info, http://apartments-in-prague.org. Choose<br />
from their 14 apartments scattered over convenient locations<br />
around the Old Town, Wenceslas Square, Malá Strana<br />
and Vinohrady. Antique and modern furniture fill the central,<br />
1-3 bedroom apartments which have full kitchens and sofa<br />
beds for extra guests. Q14 rooms (14 apartments N65<br />
- 160). AR<br />
Apartments Oasis CITY I-4, Wenceslas Square 36,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 224 210 146, fax 224 247 198, info@<br />
oasiscity.cz, www.oasiscity.cz. The top floors of the Marks<br />
& Spencer building house spanking new basically furnished<br />
apartments, several with balconies facing the sunset, and all<br />
equipped with a kitchen, bathroom and washing machine. Facilities:<br />
gym, spinning, yoga, solarium, internet, SPA, children’s<br />
corner and more. Q ( 1-8 person apartments N50 - 220).<br />
ADFHKLSTU<br />
Appia Residences A-2, Praha 1, Šporkova 3, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 21 58 19, fax 257 21 53 29, appia@<br />
europehotels.cz, www.appia-apartments.com. 22 sublime<br />
apartments with 1-3 bedrooms for long or short stays<br />
in a restored building around a quiet courtyard. An original<br />
chapel pediment is visible in the gables of one section of the<br />
hotel and its interior has been converted into a gorgeous<br />
private events/meeting room. Original stone floors and<br />
wooden beams complement the sumptuous furnishings in<br />
the apartments, and once here, you’ll probably never want<br />
to go home. Q (22 apartments N132 - 264). Breakfast €9.<br />
ABDGHLPRW hhhh<br />
City Information B-2, Praha 1, Mostecká 4, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 13 78, info@city-info.cz, www.cityinfo.cz.<br />
Four apartments (two in Josefov, Malá Strana and Old<br />
Town end of Charles Bridge) offer accommodation for up to six<br />
people, if you are willing to cram it up a little. Basic kitchen<br />
facilities, linen and maid service included, plus its central and<br />
well appointed. They also provide Prague information based<br />
on links to other websites. Q Single €65-€90, double €70-<br />
€97, triple €77-€106, quadruple €92-€124 A<br />
April - May 2007<br />
29
30<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
Pensions<br />
Accord F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 9, MNám. Republiky, tel.<br />
222 32 86 16, fax 222 32 44 06, info@accordprague.<br />
com, www.accordprague.com. Small pension on one floor<br />
of a central apartment building with large triples facing the<br />
street, and sunny doubles over a bare courtyard. Simple but<br />
satisfying – satellite TV, small bathrooms and comfortable<br />
beds. The lower double price is for single occupancy. Breakfast<br />
is from the nearby Red Hot & Blues restaurant. Q11<br />
rooms (singles N53 - 92, 5 doubles N69 - 120, 6 triples N89<br />
- 141, extra bed N17 - 24). AG<br />
Ariva Guesthouse K-4, Praha 3, Vlkova 37, tel. 603<br />
91 41 89/608 97 08 75, ariva@centrum.cz, www.arivaguesthouse.com.<br />
This beautifully refurbished and stylishly<br />
decorated building in the less than salubrious surroundings of<br />
Žižkov are home to one of Prague’s more unique guesthouses.<br />
Meticulously restored, with bare brick walls, high ceilings<br />
and wooden floors, the rooms here all have quirky design<br />
characteristics and also come with a kitchen. Excellent value<br />
and a lot of eye candy. Q16 rooms (13 doubles N55 - 66, 3<br />
apartments N77). P<br />
Březina I-6, Praha 2, Legerova 41, MI.P. Pavlova,<br />
tel. 224 26 67 79, fax 224 26 67 77, info@brezina.cz,<br />
www.brezina.cz. Select floors in two buildings comprise<br />
this friendly, clean and comfortable pension with LAN internet<br />
connection in all rooms. Two economy rooms share a<br />
bathroom while (two) standard and (the rest) luxury have<br />
exposed beams and slanted ceilings. Q35 rooms (1 single<br />
N37 - 67, 28 doubles N43 - 73, 9 triples N58 - 88). AB<br />
GHKLP hhh<br />
Castle Steps A-1, Praha 1, Nerudova 10, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 19 41, fax 257 53 29 21, info@<br />
castlesteps.com, www.castlesteps.com. This 400year-old<br />
building has expanded the number of suites, rooms<br />
and apartments available and added some great technical<br />
services for the businessmen or web addicted among us.<br />
Discounts are available for long and winter stays and they<br />
have toll free numbers from most European countries. Check<br />
the website for details. Q37 rooms (17 doubles N34 - 64, 1<br />
suite N60 - 92, 20 apartments N57 - 150). RT<br />
Irish Club Pension H-1, Praha 7, Keramická 4, tel. 233<br />
37 11 28/602 813 117, www.irishclubprague.com.<br />
Above the friendly folk in the Irish bar are these rooms and one<br />
student dorm that offer basic but cheap beds with some great<br />
services – in addition to being upstairs from the bar of course.<br />
All rooms have TV & DVD, small kitchen and microwave and<br />
Wi-Fi. They’ll rent laptops, local SIM cards, mobile phones and<br />
DVDs to you and help you in, out and around the city. Some<br />
rooms can accommodate up to 5 people. Q (7 doubles N35<br />
- 80, extra bed N10 -, dorm bed N17 - ). RW<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Mušketýr I-5, Praha 1, Mezibranská 13, MMuzeum,<br />
tel./fax 296 22 00 00, office@musketyr.com, www.<br />
musketyr.com. An ancient wooden door and worn stone<br />
entrance leads to a veritable labyrinth of rooms and apartments.<br />
Most have been renovated, most are split level, all<br />
are comfortable and sleek, and in addition staff are friendly<br />
and the garden is lovely. Prices belie the location a stone’s<br />
throw from the National Museum. For wonderful views, ask<br />
for room 4 or 16. Excellent restaurant too. Q22 rooms<br />
(16 doubles N75 - 279, 6 triples N107 - 214). ABG<br />
KLP6 hhh<br />
Museum Pension I-5, Praha 1, Mezibranská 15,<br />
MMuzeum, tel. 296 32 51 86, fax 296 32 51 88,<br />
pension-museum@pension-museum.cz, www.pension-museum.cz.<br />
This is as good as bed and breakfast<br />
gets. A fantastic pension with a central location. The<br />
huge rooms (this is a converted school) are set around<br />
a quiet courtyard in a separate building far from the<br />
busy road out front. All are spacious, with TV, large<br />
bathrooms, sofas and enormous beds. Q12 rooms<br />
(singles N50 - 100, 5 doubles N65 - 115, triples N80<br />
- 140, quads N90 - 160, 7 suites N65 - 200). AB<br />
GH6TU hhh<br />
Pension Atelier Art 12 G-2, Praha 6, Na Valech 12,<br />
MHradčanská, tel. 233 32 46 31, pensionatelier12@<br />
centrum.cz, www.pensionatelier12.com. Close to<br />
Letná and within sight of one of the old gates of Prague,<br />
this homely pension is friendly, spacious and within walking<br />
distance of the castle, via the lovely gardens. Rooms are<br />
basic but comfortable with some bright colours providing<br />
the bathrooms with additional wake-up value. Plus, it’s in<br />
a quiet neighbourhood with shops and restaurants close<br />
by. Q AIT<br />
U Medvídků D-4, Praha 1, Na Perštýně 7, MNárodní<br />
třída, tel. 224 21 19 16, fax 224 22 09 30, info@<br />
umedvidku.cz, www.umedvidku.cz. Fancy sleeping<br />
under Gothic rafters and Renaissance ceilings? Well<br />
you need to pay a little more than usual to stay in one<br />
of the rooms here, but then the central location and<br />
the fact it’s attached to a beer hall may be enough to<br />
warrant spending the cash. Q33 rooms (3 singles<br />
N51 - 76, 26 doubles N76 - 116, 4 triples N103 - 150).<br />
ABGKP hhh<br />
Unitas Pension D-4, Praha 1, Bartolomějská 9,<br />
MNárodní třída, tel. 224 22 18 02, fax 224 21 75<br />
55, unitas@unitas.cz, www.unitas.cz. This is where<br />
former President Havel was detained as a political prisoner.<br />
But if you want to sleep in his cell, P6, you need to<br />
book several months in advance. The accommodation<br />
is in the pension and in the nearby hotel. Today only<br />
smoking, drinking and staying out late are banned. Q36<br />
rooms (31 doubles N40 - 50, 4 triples N50 - 85, 1 quad<br />
N60 - 95). AGL<br />
Hostels<br />
Advantage I-6, Praha 2, Sokolská 11, MI.P. Pavlova,<br />
tel. 224 91 40 62, fax 224 91 40 67, reservations@jsc.<br />
cz, www.advantagehostel.cz. Good location, comfortable,<br />
basic but clean rooms and with some of the most helpful<br />
English-speaking staff around. Breakfast is included and next<br />
door is a decent restaurant terrace. Free internet, no curfew,<br />
24hr reception but a lot of stairs if you have big bags… IYH<br />
/ISIC discounts. Recommended. Q26 rooms (2 doubles N27<br />
- 50, 4 triples N36 - 67, 6 quads N48 - 82, 2 apartments N55<br />
- 103, 12 Dorms N10 - 20). AGK<br />
Apple F-2, Praha 1, Králodvorská 16, MNám Republiky,<br />
tel. 222 23 10 50, applehostel@applehostel.cz, www.<br />
applehostel.cz. Fabulous price and location for this friendly<br />
hostel. Right behind Kotva and just a stumble from the lure of<br />
the Old Town, an apple a day keeps the taxi fees away. Rooms<br />
range from doubles to dorms with 12 beds, bathrooms are<br />
shared and all is clean. Breakfast is included, there is a music/<br />
TV room, kitchen, laundry, luggage storage and safety deposit<br />
boxes. Q 24 rooms, 100 beds. 260 - 720Kč. AR<br />
Boathouse Praha 4, Lodnická 1, tel. 241 77 00 51, fax<br />
241 77 69 88, boathouse@volny.cz, www.aa.cz/boathouse.<br />
It’s a bit out of town and doesn’t float, but Věra and<br />
Helena will compensate by making you feel very welcome in<br />
this relaxed hostel. Linen, hot showers and satellite TV are<br />
included. Note that only room 8 has real windows. Take tram<br />
N°3 to Černý kůň (22 mins); then it’s a 200m walk down to the<br />
river on an unlit road. Q13 rooms (1 double N12 - 15, 1 triple<br />
N11 - 14, 5 quads N11 - 14, 6 dorm N10 - 14). ABGK<br />
Clown & Bard K-4, Praha 3, Bořivojova 102, MJiřího<br />
z Poděbrad, tel. 222 71 64 53, fax 222 71 90 26, info@<br />
clownandbard.com, www.clownandbard.com. In the<br />
heart of Žižkov is this colourfully-named and busy hostel.<br />
Facilities include money exchange, safe, laundry and even a<br />
hairdresser. The bar is a popular spot for guests and expats<br />
and there are plenty of nightspots in the area to explore too.<br />
Breakfast not included. Q Beds 250 - 450Kč. K<br />
Czech Inn K-6, Praha 10, Francouzská 76, MNám. Míru,<br />
tel. 267 26 76 00, fax 267 26 76 01, info@czech-inn.cz,<br />
www.czech-inn.com. From some of the makers of Sir Toby’s<br />
and Miss Sophie’s, Czech Inn is the future of backpacking, we<br />
hope… the custom iron bedsteads and furniture, stylish fixtures,<br />
famous shower heads, café and wow-split-level apartments have<br />
already made the international press, even the 10 bed dorm is<br />
spacious. All beds have lockable drawers. Reservations necessary.<br />
Q33 rooms (12 doubles N50 - 57, 2 triples N58 - 65, 8<br />
apartments N68 - 157, dorms N14 - 15). ABGKU<br />
Extol Inn Praha 7, Přístavní 2, MNádraží Holešovice,<br />
tel. 220 87 65 41, fax 220 80 67 52, info@extolinn.cz,<br />
www.extolinn.cz. Rooms are more like small suites, 3 star<br />
versions have satellite TV, a minibar, telephone and hairdryer.<br />
(There are two dedicated handicapped rooms.) 2 star rooms<br />
have none of above but are the same clean, bright quality. An<br />
excellent option, with friendly staff, good restaurant, breakfast<br />
included and, should you need it, an atomic bunker. Q82<br />
rooms (16 singles N25 - 31, 50 doubles N42 - 53, 23 triples<br />
N62 - 76). ABFHKLPU hh<br />
Golden Sickle H-5, Praha 1, Vodíčkova 10, MMůstek,<br />
tel. 222 23 07 73, stay@goldensickle.com, www.goldensickle.com.<br />
A huge labyrinth of dorms, rooms and rather<br />
nice apartments around a picturesque courtyard comprise<br />
this 2004 award-winning hostel. Its central location somewhat<br />
justifies the relatively high prices. Note though that dorms are<br />
large and bathrooms limited if beds are full. Towels, sheets,<br />
storage and kitchen facilities provided. Q19 rooms (1 double<br />
36 - 56Kč, 2 triples 50 - 100Kč, 3 quads 66 - 117Kč, 5 apartments<br />
50 - 117Kč, 8 dorm beds 12 - 24Kč). ABGKL<br />
Chilli House H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 7, MKarlovo nám.,<br />
tel. 603 11 91 13, fax 251 17 13 90, info@chillihouse.cz,<br />
www.chillihouse.cz. In an old residential building, the dorms<br />
(max 8 beds, some bunks) are in what were apartments, so<br />
each approx. 20 bed section has a kitchen, two bathrooms and<br />
internet but little storage space and no lockers as yet. Comfortable,<br />
friendly and so central you barely need to stagger home.<br />
Q (quads N350 - 600, 110 dorm beds N300 - 400). R<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
Miss Sophie’s I-5/6, Praha 2, Melounová 3, MI. P. Pavlova,<br />
tel. 296 30 35 30, fax 296 30 35 31, reservation@<br />
miss-sophies.com, www.miss-sophies.com. A hostel<br />
for the discerning budget traveller, Sophie’s has deluxe yet<br />
spartan rooms. Concrete floors and blank walls but designer<br />
bathrooms with delicious showers. Bag lockers on wheels,<br />
and a cigar club-style common room. Free internet, but no<br />
kitchen or breakfast. Q14 rooms (2 singles N30 - 42, 5<br />
doubles N42 - 49, 4 triples N49 - 59, 3 apartments N38 - 73,<br />
21 dorm beds N11 - 14). ABGU<br />
Old Prague Hostel F-2, Praha 1, Benediktská 2,<br />
MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 82 90 58, oldpraguehostel@<br />
seznam.cz, www.oldpraguehostel.com. Award-winning<br />
hostel slap bang in the thick of Prague’s nightlife. All entrances<br />
are key-coded for security, dorms (max. 8 beds) have lockers<br />
and are fairly cramped, but hey, all you’re going to do is<br />
sleep in there. Plus free internet, TV/DVD lounge, kitchen,<br />
breakfast and linen, a 24 hour reception and very friendly<br />
staff – the owner’s grandmother did all the artwork. Q 20<br />
rooms. Doubles €36 - 48, Triples €45 - 57, Quads €60 - 70.<br />
Dorms €16 for bed. G<br />
Sir Toby’s Praha 7, Dělnická 24, MNádraží Holešovice,<br />
tel. 283 87 06 35, fax 283 87 06 36, info@sirtobys.com,<br />
www.sirtobys.com. A friendly, excellently-run independent<br />
hostel. It’s out of the centre, but prices are good, transport<br />
connections abound, and it’s two blocks from Mecca club.<br />
Whether you want a dorm or a room with private bathroom,<br />
they have it. Plus garden, bar, full kitchen, internet and informative,<br />
knowledgably staff. Q27 rooms (1 single N35, 4<br />
doubles N40 - 45, 4 triples N47 - 54, 6 quads N50 - 63, 12<br />
dorms N9 - 12). ABG<br />
Sokol B-3, Praha 1, Nosticova 2, MMalostranská, tel.<br />
257 00 73 97, www.sokol-cos.cz. No smoking – except on<br />
their fabulous roof terrace overlooking the adjacent Kampa<br />
Island, river and castle – in this hostel in a school building,<br />
hence the name. Dorms are large, clean and every bed gets<br />
a locker. No breakfast, no laundry, no internet, but 24hr service,<br />
cheap and central, plus snacks and drinks at reception.<br />
Doubles are in the attic and small. Q (3 doubles N700 - 900,<br />
100 dorm beds N300 - 350). BGL<br />
Travellers’ Hostel F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám.<br />
Republiky, tel. 224 82 66 62, fax 224 82 66 65, hostel@<br />
travellers.cz, www.travellers.cz. The central location,<br />
internet access, laundry, baggage storage and no curfew<br />
makes this the backpacking hedonist’s number one choice.<br />
Q44 rooms (6 singles N37, 6 doubles N21, 17 triples N16, 11<br />
quads N15, 4 apartments N80 - 117). AGKLU<br />
April - May 2007<br />
31
32 RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
This chapter only reviews our selection of restaurants in the<br />
Old Town & New Town, the well-touristed area between<br />
the river and Wilsonova road at the National Theatre. For<br />
dining in Malá Strana, Vinohrady & Žižkov, Letná &<br />
Holešovice and Smíchov & Anděl turn to pages 58 - 70.<br />
Afghan<br />
Ariana F-2, Praha 1, Rámová 6, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222<br />
32 34 38, www.sweb.cz/kabulrest. Superb, especially if it<br />
happens to be the chilli chutney or a large plate of aubergines<br />
swimming in butter and salt. Ariana’s Afghan is slightly spicy,<br />
and uses a lot of tomatoes and yoghurt. The portions may be a<br />
tad underweight but great Eastern cuisine, at better prices than<br />
most. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250Kč). AT<br />
Kabul Karolina D-4, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 14,<br />
MNárodní třída, tel. 224 23 54 52. Unassuming in appearance,<br />
perhaps like the city it’s named after, it’s the food and<br />
the pleasant courtyard seating at this Afghan restaurant that<br />
draws in the Czech and foreign crowds. The short menu lists<br />
among others kebabs, kofta (spicy meatballs) and ashak, a<br />
delicious dough pocket stuffed with beef, leek, yoghurt and<br />
mint. Don’t forget to try the kadu yoghurt-pumpkin dessert<br />
before you leave. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. ABP<br />
American<br />
Buffalo Bill’s H-5, Praha 1, Vodičkova 9, MMůstek, tel.<br />
224 94 86 24, www.buffalobill.cz. A clear example of how<br />
the West has won in Prague, BB’s is an American-style restaurant<br />
decorated like a saloon where the Duke or Clint Eastwood<br />
could meet for drinks. Although classic barbecued ribs and<br />
burgers are offered, Bill’s true speciality is Tex-Mex food in the<br />
form of burritos, enchiladas and, the crowning achievement of<br />
its genre, chimichangas. Limitless soft drinks can be had, but<br />
the glasses are so large you probably won’t dare have more<br />
than one. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč). APT<br />
Red Hot & Blues F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 12, MNám.<br />
Republiky, tel. 222 32 33 64. A cool, tiled space with a<br />
pleasant courtyard (heated in winter) in the city centre serves<br />
up good brunches and a selection of Tex-Mex and cajun<br />
dishes at medium prices. There is live music every night, the<br />
lunchtime deals are great value, and the weekend brunch is<br />
one of the most popular in Prague. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
(190 - 300Kč). ABE<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Pavel Vítek<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live music S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking<br />
O Casino M Nearest metro station<br />
R Internet W Wi-Fi 6 Animal friendly<br />
Argentinean<br />
La Boca I-3, Praha 1, Truhlářská 10, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 222 31 20 73, www.laboca.cz. La Boca, junior to the<br />
Hotel Salvator next door, serves up large and value-filled<br />
Argentinean dishes, making for a good option when you fancy<br />
a touch of flair without making your wallet feel like you’re purchasing<br />
a ticket to Argentina. Within the expected rustic décor<br />
and brightly muralled walls the over-worked staff try their best<br />
and actually remain friendly. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat<br />
11:00 - 01:00. (150 - 350Kč). AGPTU<br />
La Casa Argentina F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 35, MNám.<br />
Republiky, tel. 222 31 15 12, www.argentinarestaurant.<br />
cz. A labyrinthine homage to comfort and cuisine with added<br />
spice from tango dancers, a toucan and unique swing seats at<br />
the cellar bar. Service is impeccable and the signature Pampas-raised<br />
Argentinean beef cooked to perfection (asado)<br />
at the open grill (parrilla). With a non-smoking winter garden,<br />
sports corridor with TVs and a wine cellar, this luxurious new<br />
addition to Prague’s fine dining scene is set to cruise forward.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. (200 - 750Kč). AEGIP<br />
Bakeries<br />
Bakeshop Diner E-2, Praha 1, Kozí 1, MStaromětská,<br />
tel. 222 31 68 23, www.bakeshop.cz. Landing a sandwich<br />
here may strain your arm muscles, as they are seriously<br />
weighed down with fresh fillings. You can spend an arm and<br />
a leg on a variety of other delicious baked goods and salads.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. (90 - 130Kč). S<br />
Culinaria E-4, Praha 1, Skořepka 9, MMůstek, tel.<br />
224 23 10 17, www.culinaria.cz. Gourmet sandwiches,<br />
salads, quiches, pasta, cookies and more in a classy eat in,<br />
take out or buy the ingredients and cook at home place. Wash<br />
it all down with a vegetable or fruit smoothie, hot chocolate<br />
or gourmet coffee and tea. After 18:00 sandwiches are half<br />
price. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00<br />
- 17:00. (70 - 95Kč). S<br />
Mansson E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 8, MStaroměstská, tel.<br />
222 31 06 20. Bread, sandwiches and sweets fit for a king, or at<br />
least good enough for Prague’s top restaurants which order their<br />
supply here. Grab the newspaper and settle down in the designer<br />
café for the excellent coffee and one of the Danish specialities.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. G<br />
Belgian<br />
Les Moules E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 19, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 31 50 22, www.lesmoules.cz. Superb Belgian<br />
restaurant and beer bar with authentic Flemish cuisine, modern<br />
fusion or select one of the traditional favourites like ‘bull’s glands.’<br />
Belgian beers are also plentiful. Did we mention that they serve<br />
gigantic steaming pots of mussels, flown daily from Brussels?<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (300 - 400Kč). ABP<br />
RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
Brewery restaurants<br />
Novoměstský pivovar I-5, Praha 1, Vodičkova 20,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 222 23 24 48, www.npivovar.cz. A<br />
340-seat restaurant, the New Town Brewery, not surprisingly,<br />
serves its own brews. This could easily have become<br />
a theme restaurant, because it can and does cater to large<br />
parties, so come early or book ahead. Lots of smoked meat<br />
and traditional dishes. Try the pork knuckle. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 23:30, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (160 - 500Kč).<br />
ABEGPTU<br />
Pivovarský dům I-5, Praha 2, Lipová 15, MKarlovo<br />
nám., tel. 296 21 66 66, www.gastroinfo.cz. The aptly<br />
named Brewery House bends the Czech brewing tradition to<br />
new and exotic heights (read: banana beer). If you’d like to<br />
sample all of the brews on offer without getting plastered,<br />
ask for the small samples for only 10Kč each. This popular<br />
bar also serves excellent Czech dishes including venison.<br />
Service can be surly and food on the stale side. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:30. (95 - 230Kč). AGP<br />
Potrefená husa E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 5, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 32 66 26, www.potrefenahusa.wz.cz. It’s a hospoda,<br />
Jim, but not as we know it. The new generation has<br />
landed, complete with Brazil-the-movie-type TV screens, a bar<br />
rail at the long bar for comfort, and very good, very large, and<br />
very popular food (from fallow deer to jambalaya), although<br />
the onus remains on ‘the culture of drinking’. QOpen 11:30<br />
- 01:00. (50 - 350Kč). Also at H-5, Praha 2, Resslova 1; K-5,<br />
Praha 3, Vinohradská 104; Praha 6, Verdunská / Terronská<br />
11; Praha 5, Anděl City. AP<br />
U Fleků H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 11, MNárodní třída,<br />
tel. 224 93 40 19, www.ufleku.cz. A tourist trap since they<br />
started brewing their dark, rich aromatic beer on this spot<br />
in 1499. The brew is worth the trip in itself, and should be<br />
accompanied by hearty pub food. The loud and boisterous<br />
crowds of tourists and locals are a show worth watching.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (85 - 320Kč). A<br />
U Pinkasů E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám. 16,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 221 11 11 50, www.upinkasu.cz. The<br />
presence of locals is encouraging in this beer hall whose not<br />
unimpressive claim to fame is that of being the first pivnice<br />
in Prague to have Pilsner Urquell on draught. In today’s establishment<br />
you’ll find a courtyard terrace and two floors of<br />
beer swilling and sausage eating. More elegant no-smoking<br />
rooms are available for dining; the menu, although traditional,<br />
is uninspired. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 200Kč). AB<br />
Czech<br />
Beograd H-5, Praha 1, Vodičkova 5/12, MMůstek, tel.<br />
224 94 60 63. Beograd serves up delicious Czech staples,<br />
plus a list of specials that illustrate beautifully the art of culinary<br />
fusion. For the drinkers, Krušovice tmavé sits in copper<br />
tanks in the midst of diners. A wonderful new addition to the<br />
burgeoning chic Czech hospodas. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(130 - 280Kč). AP<br />
Bredovský dvůr F-4, Praha 1, Politických vĕzňů 13,<br />
MHlavní nádraží, tel. 224 21 54 28. A modern version of<br />
the Czech hospoda, Bredovský dvůr delivers cellar ambience<br />
dimly lit by funky lights, a long iron bar, cool furniture and<br />
excellent kitchen. An extremely popular lunchtime attracts<br />
the crowds until 14:00. The kitchen mimics the funky and<br />
old world fusion of the décor, with Czech dishes tweaked by<br />
international additions. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00<br />
- 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). AP<br />
Celnice I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky, tel.<br />
224 21 22 40, www.celnice.com. The menu includes all<br />
the Czech standards including pork knuckle and rabbit, but<br />
Celnice also serves some more imaginative and vegetarian<br />
options. Unfortunately, the large space can get noisy when<br />
the downstairs bar turns up the volume later in the evening.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (150 - 335Kč). ABGP<br />
Ferdinanda I-4, Corner of Opletalova & Politických<br />
věznů, MMuzeum, tel. 222 24 43 02, www.ferdinanda.<br />
cz. The food is pretty good with a delicious gulaš and more.<br />
Speedy lunch specials and breakfast menu add to their<br />
staples. Pivovar Ferdinand produces the Sedm Kulí 13 degrees<br />
beer apparently named for the seven bullets that killed<br />
Franz Ferdinand - the archduke, not the band. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (85 - 250Kč). GW<br />
Kamenný most G-4, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábř. 195,<br />
MStaromětská, tel. 224 09 71 00, www.kamennymost.<br />
cz. A breezy, ambient Czech establishment that sets itself<br />
apart from the mundane with a truly adventurous menu that<br />
hits new levels of creativity. Every evening until 04:00 you can<br />
also enjoy drinks and dancing in the sublime music bar, one<br />
of the city’s most fashionable nightlife locations. A winner.<br />
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (180 - 500Kč). ABP<br />
Kolkovna E-2, Praha 1, V Kolkovně 8, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 224 81 97 01, www.kolkovna.cz. As big and brassy as<br />
Mae West with a fistful of Viagra, Kolkovna serves quality and<br />
robust family bucket portions on one plate, and tank beer from<br />
the owner, Pilsner Urquell. For all of the above reasons it’s been<br />
packed from day one and there’s little reason to expect that this<br />
will be any different on the day you decide to visit. Reservations<br />
a must. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (160 - 250Kč). AP<br />
Patriot-X I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 3, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 224 23 51 58, www.patriot-x.cz. This suave location<br />
has much to offer with a comfortable café upstairs and the<br />
cellar restaurant upping the ante with their particular combination<br />
of traditional Czech dishes with a Mediterranean twist and<br />
from fresh, bio ingredients. Salad, quiche and sandwiches are<br />
good for a quick meal, while the duck, roast pork, homemade<br />
pasta and fish constitute the quality mains. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 24:00. (140 - 400Kč). ABEGPTU<br />
Beer gardens<br />
The greatest of Czech traditions... once the long cold<br />
winter dissipates, everyone heads for the hills and and<br />
to the two greatest beer gardens in the city.<br />
Letenské sady H-2, Praha 7, Letná Park. Sit in the<br />
dust bowl under the trees and slurp beer from plastic<br />
cups. One of the roughest and least ready of these particular<br />
kinds of places; which is saying quite a lot, but it’s<br />
also one of the most popular - probably because of the<br />
fantastic view across the river of the entire city basking<br />
in the evening sunshine. More decorous food and beer<br />
can be had at the tables under the umbrellas.<br />
Park Café J-5, Praha 2, Riegrovy sady 28, MJiřího<br />
z Poděbrad. Atthe top of the sloping Riegrovy sady park<br />
between Vinohrady and Žížkov is one of the biggest and<br />
most organised beer stations in the city. There’s even<br />
a covered stage for occasional shin-digs, which the multitude<br />
of dogs will attempt to drown out with their own<br />
swan song. Football matches on TV and live in the form<br />
of foosball. Q E<br />
April - May 2007<br />
33
34<br />
RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
Czech and international<br />
experience gastronomy<br />
Moravian, French, Spanish,<br />
Italian a and Chilean wines<br />
Intimate, exclusive 15th century setting.<br />
Piano music every evening<br />
VISA, AMEX, DC, EC/MC, JCB<br />
Seven Angels D-3, Praha 1, Jilská 20, MMůstek, tel.<br />
224 23 43 81, www.7angels.cz. As this has been a restaurant<br />
since the 13th century and it’s a good bet it’ll outlast<br />
any and all changes in management. Seven Angels is one of<br />
the most beautiful dining rooms around. Choose from a wide<br />
selection of Bohemian specials: indulge your inner country<br />
gentlefolk instincts with dishes like roast duck, red cabbage,<br />
potato pancake and roast rabbit. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(180 - 550Kč). AEP<br />
Czech out further afield<br />
Perpetuum Praha 6, Na hutích 9, MDejvická, tel.<br />
233 32 34 29, www.cervenatabulka.cz. Prague’s<br />
dedicated duck restaurant, although there are a couple<br />
of non-canard meals available. The duck, and filet mignon<br />
for example, is superbly cooked, as you’d expect; tender,<br />
tasty and with appropriate sides. Deserts should not<br />
be missed either - Czech favourites complement this<br />
local delicacy, the humble duck made great by cunning<br />
chefs. QOpen 11.30 - 23.00. Café hours: Mon - Fri<br />
08.00 - 22.00, Sat 10.00 - 22.00 Closed Sun. (400<br />
- 600Kč). AG<br />
U Bílého lva Praha 6, Bělohorská 79, tel. 220 51<br />
08 56, www.u-bileholva.cz. A complex of recently refurbished<br />
pine and rag-rolled rooms; the sort of presentation<br />
that you get in the houses of young professionals with lots<br />
of money and little imagination. That said, the food and<br />
service are both excellent, and the atmosphere remains<br />
that of a Czech pub with a few tweaks of refinement.<br />
The duck with bread and bacon dumplings is fantastic.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (75 - 150Kč). A<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Welkome to the 15th Century<br />
Rytířská 16, Prague 1, Czech Republic<br />
Tel.: +420 224 225 873, tel./fax: +420 224 222 623<br />
restaurant@umodreruze.cz www.umodreruze.cz<br />
Století C-4, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 21, MNárodní<br />
třída, tel. 222 22 00 08, www.stoleti.cz. Great value,<br />
lively atmosphere and fantastic service. However, the most<br />
interesting aspect for us is that whilst other restaurants take<br />
Czech food and tack it together with other cuisines to make<br />
an international hybrid, Století is the only one that is seriously<br />
attempting to progress Czech cuisine while keeping it Czech<br />
at the same time. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč).<br />
ABIPTU<br />
U Červeného páva E-3, Praha 1, Kamzíkova 6,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 224 23 31 68, www.ucervenehopava.cz.<br />
Shyly hiding down a passage behind Staroměstské náměstí is<br />
this small set of rooms and passages, great for a quick, tasty<br />
and somewhat different lunch. It can be refreshing to find filled<br />
baked potatoes or pancakes around these parts, although<br />
this is still a very Czech bird, most particularly in the evening.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (250 - 300Kč). AG<br />
U Korbele I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 7 (Renaissance Prague<br />
Hotel), MNám. Republiky, tel. 221 82 24 33. Traditional<br />
wood panelling, decorative Moravian plates, wait staff in<br />
local costume and delicious cuisine for affordable prices are<br />
all reasons to dine at this surprisingly cosy hotel restaurant.<br />
The only deviance from classic Czech fare is the decrease in<br />
the amount of caraway seeds in each dish. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 01:00. (250 - 350Kč). A<br />
U Modré růže E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 16, MMůstek,<br />
tel. 224 22 58 73, www.umodreruze.cz. The Blue<br />
Rose serves refined Czech dishes in an antique setting<br />
to make you feel like a lord or lady. The candle-lit 15th<br />
century brick cellar is an ideal place for a romantic dinner<br />
with your sweetheart. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (350<br />
- 750Kč). AEGP<br />
RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
French<br />
Brasserie La Provence E-3, Praha 1, Štupartská 9,<br />
MNám. Republiky, tel. 257 53 50 50, www.kampagroup.<br />
com. The people that brought you Kampa Park went to great<br />
lengths to create a genuine brasserie in the heart of Prague. The<br />
result is a ‘best of’ amalgam of several Parisian brasseries; a<br />
stunning Belle Epoque room with large windows. Specialising in<br />
delicious fresh seafood (anything from oysters to lobster), game<br />
like rabbit in tarragon sauce and vegetarian onion quiche are also<br />
available. The sommelier has selected several uncomplicated<br />
wines (that can also be had by glass) that go wonderfully with the<br />
food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (130 - 600Kč). AP<br />
Brasserie M H-5, Praha 1, Vladislavova 17, MNárodní<br />
třída, tel. 224 05 40 70, www.brasseriem.cz. A stunning,<br />
authentic French brasserie from ex-Marriott Executive chef,<br />
Jean-Paul Manzac. This subtly eponymous space is classy<br />
yet laid back – on one visit; jeans and diamonds were being<br />
gastronomically sated. Dishes from the open kitchen are<br />
simple, delicious and classically Gallic. Sublime. Daily specials,<br />
Sunday brunch (695Kč), French wine from 400Kč. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 22:30. (200 - 650Kč). AGP<br />
Flambée D-3, Praha 1, Husova 5, MNárodní třída, tel.<br />
224 24 85 12, www.flambee.cz. Late Gothic vaulted<br />
ceilings, a decadent décor, and unrivaled cuisine combine to<br />
make this restaurant a haven for the rich and famous, a place<br />
that no gourmet can resist. Chef Dušan Jakubec has taken<br />
gastronomy to new heights with his sumptuous creations.<br />
The foie gras and glazed rabbit leave you craving more, yet<br />
indulgence is not complete without giving into the sensuality<br />
of the vanilla creme brulée. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (750<br />
- 1,780Kč). AEGPT<br />
Francouzská restaurace F-3, Praha 1, Náměstí Republiky<br />
5, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 00 27 70, www.<br />
francouzskarestaurace.cz. Superb French (and some<br />
Czech) gourmet dishes from this restaurant’s award winning<br />
chefs. Mussels, rabbit, foie gras and duck all make delightful<br />
appearances in one of the world’s masterpieces of art nouveau<br />
architecture (the Municipal House building itself) and<br />
interior. Lunch specials and a concert package lower prices<br />
somewhat, and try the Jazz Brunch on the first Sunday of<br />
each month. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - 23:00. (600<br />
- 2,000Kč). ABEPU<br />
Chez Marcel F-2, Praha 1, Haštalská 12, MNám.<br />
Republiky, tel. 222 31 56 70. An authentic and sprawling<br />
café on a quiet square in Prague: delicious ambience,<br />
service and cuisine from this French-owned gem. Blackboard<br />
specials offer escargot and foie gras while the menu<br />
bestows the common people with omelettes and expertly<br />
cooked steaks. Add the people-watching windows, chess<br />
and backgammon boards and distinctly un-Old Town prices,<br />
and this place deserves to be as busy as it often is. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. Also at J-6, Praha<br />
2, Americká 20, tel. 222 51 33 40, open 11:30 - 23:00.<br />
(90 - 300Kč). B<br />
La Scene E-1, Praha 1, U Milosrdných 6, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 31 26 77, www.lascene.cz. A fabulous new<br />
restaurant in an emerging corner of the Old Town. Gourmet<br />
chef Georges-André Rognard conjures up excellent French<br />
food, the limited menu including grilled swordfish steak and<br />
lamb fillet with a crust of gingerbread. La Scene consists of<br />
a lounge-like wine bar, a beautiful dining area and a mellow<br />
champagne club. Q Open 12:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 24:00, Sat<br />
19:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (350 - 650Kč). AP<br />
April - May 2007<br />
35
36<br />
RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
Le Saint-Jacques F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 4,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 26 85, www.saint-jacques.<br />
cz. Tiny restaurant filled with pricey but imaginative French<br />
fodder, excellent wine and live piano and violin every night. Q<br />
Open Mon-Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00; Sat, Sun 18:00<br />
- 24:00. (400 - 800Kč). AEGIU<br />
Le Terroir D-3, Praha 1, Vejvodova 1, MNárodní třída,<br />
tel. 222 22 02 60, www.leterroir.cz. The menu is just one<br />
page of superb choices, while the wine selection runs over<br />
500 bottles. Wines can range from 500Kč to the price of a<br />
decent car. Lunch deals mean the hoi polloi can also partake.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (220 - 520Kč). ABP<br />
Sarah Bernhardt I-3, Praha 1, U Obecního domu 1,<br />
MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 19 51 95, www.sarah-bernhardt.cz.<br />
Hotel dining is reaching dizzy heights in Prague<br />
and the art nouveau design of this restaurant is divinely<br />
matched by Chef Jan Mošna’s inspired menues with set<br />
meals for the undecided or choose from swordfish, turbot or<br />
rabbit. Visit their famous jazz Sunday brunch (12:00 - 16:00,<br />
750Kč). Live piano daily. Q Open 06:30 - 10:00 (10:30 Sat<br />
& Sun), 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - 24:00. (500 - 900Kč) (750<br />
- 1,500Kč). AEGP<br />
U Závoje E-3, Praha 1, Havelská 25, MMůstek, tel.<br />
226 00 61 20, www.uzavoje.cz. This classy house of<br />
wine consists of a restaurant, café, wine bar, delicatessen<br />
and accessories shop. The French and international menu is<br />
designed to complement the extensive wine list and includes<br />
a two course daily menu to a six-course gourmet menu. Individually<br />
priced dishes are available too. Fabulously decadent,<br />
this is an outstanding rare treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Café<br />
open 10:00 - 22:00. (550 - 1,300Kč). A<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Indian<br />
Khajuraho D/E-3, Praha 1, Michalská 19, MMůstek,<br />
tel. 225 77 73 33, www.khajuraho.cz. In the cellar<br />
space of the lovely Iron Gate Hotel is this superlative Indian<br />
restaurant unashamedly catering to five star standards.<br />
Chefs specialise in various cuisines and dessert, clients have<br />
included a Bollywood star, politicians and monarchs sampling<br />
their delicate taste sensations of tender lamb, vegetable,<br />
chicken and thali dishes. The murgh, so often bland instead<br />
of subtle, remains imprinted on the mind long after the zalebi<br />
and Masala tea has been savoured. Classical Indian music<br />
and dance accompanies on occasion, and do try the Indian<br />
wine. A stunning newcomer to the scene. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 23:00. (500 - 1,400Kč). AEGS<br />
International<br />
Černý slon F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 32 15 21, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. For a taste of<br />
medieval living, dine below the vaulted ceilings of this small<br />
restaurant in an ancient building across the narrow street<br />
from Týn Church. Feast on wild boar, venison, and classic<br />
European dishes or just opt for the Old Town plate consisting<br />
of pork, roast duck, sausages, dumplings and cabbage.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 400Kč). ABP<br />
Červená tabulka I-3, Praha 1, Lodecká 4, MFlorenc,<br />
tel. 224 81 04 01, www.originalart.cz. A brightly<br />
renovated villa tucked into a corner of the nether reaches of<br />
Prague 1 houses this excellent restaurant. The food is very<br />
good, the service is great, and the setting just fabulous.<br />
Recommended. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (250 - 600Kč ).<br />
AEGPTU<br />
RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
Šípek Bistrot D-2, Praha 1, Valentinská 9, tel. 222 32<br />
39 48, www.sipekbistrot.com. As with the small Šípek Deli<br />
next door, arty glass hams and sausages hang above the<br />
counter. The colourful and twisted work of Czech glass artist<br />
Borek Šípek may not appeal to everyone, but we all agree<br />
the food served at his restaurant is very good indeed. Surrounded<br />
by Šípek design (furniture, chipped-edge porcelain,<br />
candleholders and the naughty toilet signs) you’ll be served a<br />
choice of just two set lunch menus and a more complete set of<br />
dinner options. QOpen 11:00 - 22:30. (400 - 800Kč).<br />
Allegro D-2, Praha 1, Veleslavínova 2a, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 221 42 70 00, www.fourseasons.com. The quality<br />
of the Four Seasons hotel chain is obvious in the classic,<br />
oak-panelled line of Allegro’s interior as well as by the range<br />
of delicious Italian and Bohemian specialties on offer. Their<br />
view of the Vlatava and castle can’t be beaten, although<br />
their prices can. Often named the best restaurant in Prague.<br />
QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. (950 - 1,150Kč). AEGPU<br />
Ambiente Pasta Fresca F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 11,<br />
MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 23 02 44, www.ambi.cz.<br />
This classic yet laid back Italian serves up delicous and not<br />
over-priced culinary creations, and the service is superb. Try<br />
the carpaccio con tartufi to begin and if you make it past<br />
the long list of homemade pasta, the steak and salmon<br />
are both expertly cooked. Chocolate fondue for dessert is<br />
a great finish for a great meal in a great restaurant. Check<br />
out their excellent lunch deals. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (120<br />
- 350Kč). AGP<br />
Bellevue C-3, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábřeží 18,<br />
MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 14 43, www.pfd.cz. A fantastic<br />
setting, looking out to Charles Bridge, the castle and<br />
the Vltava, and a classic atmosphere sets the scene for you<br />
to feel dead posh if you want and if you can afford it. Chef<br />
Petr Bures prepares dishes like fillet of fallow deer with rose<br />
hip sauce, caramelised pears, homemade spätzle and wild<br />
mushrooms. Try their jazz brunch on Sundays. Q Open 12:00<br />
- 15:00, 17:30 - 23:00; Sun 11:00 - 15:30, 19:00 - 23:00.<br />
(1,000 - 2,000Kč). ABEGPTU<br />
Brasserie Praha I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8 (Marriott<br />
Hotel), MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 88 12 12, www.<br />
marriott.com. This elegant hotel restaurant serves up a wide<br />
variety of diverse and delicious cuisine including American,<br />
Italian and, of course, Czech. Read some foreign papers and<br />
enjoy anything from duck and spinach salad to surf and turf.<br />
Alternatively, listen to live piano music and sample one of its<br />
all-you-can-eat seafood, Italian or sushi buffets for the evening.<br />
QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. (300 - 500Kč). AE<br />
Dinitz Café I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 12, MNáměstí Republiky,<br />
tel. 222 31 40 71, www.dinitz.cz. Art Deco chic<br />
permeates the décor of this new Grand Café-style restaurant<br />
and bar. With homemade bread, butter and condiments and<br />
fresh ingredients, the sandwiches, steak, salmon, pasta is all<br />
good and all served till 02:00. Great atmosphere and cuisine<br />
make this one cool spot from breakfast to bed. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 03:00. (100 - 300Kč). AEHPS<br />
HOT I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 45, MMuzeum, tel. 222<br />
24 72 40. Popular terrace and tres chic interior is this HOT<br />
by name and hot by nature venue from Tommy Sjöö (Barock,<br />
Pravda). Asian fusion restaurant with a Czech and Thai chef,<br />
delicious Thai specialties (ask for it hot), homemade pasta,<br />
sushi, sashimi and meat dishes. Home made pasta from the<br />
lunch specials (195Kč) are tasty, light and come served in funky<br />
bowls. Cocktails and extensive wine list keep you there late.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 03:00. (200 - 700Kč). AB<br />
SUNDAY BRUNCH<br />
AT SARAH BERNHARDT<br />
Your Stylish Sunday Oasis<br />
EVERY SUNDAY<br />
12 AM. – 4 PM.<br />
H O T E L P A R I S<br />
U Obecního domu 1, CZ - 110 00 Praha 1<br />
tel.: +420 - 222 195 195, fax: +420 - 224 225 475<br />
booking@hotel-paris.cz, www.hotel-paris.cz<br />
AGNES RESTAURANT<br />
”...come and enjoy summer under the 100-year-old<br />
acacia tree in our garden...”<br />
HOTEL CASA MARCELLO****<br />
¤ásnovka 783, CZ-110 00 Praha 1<br />
Tel.: +420 - 222 311 230, Fax: +420 - 222 313 323<br />
Booking@casa-marcello.cz, www.casa-marcello.cz<br />
April - May 2007<br />
37
38<br />
RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Food with a view<br />
Koliba Praha Praha 11, Gregorova 8, MRoztyly,<br />
tel. 272 94 13 40, www.kolibapraha.cz. Koliba Praha<br />
sits high on a hill, providing panoramic views of the city<br />
while they serve up some delicous and well priced dishes.<br />
Steak, chicken and fish join classic Czech specialties.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. (150 - 300Kč). ABEPU<br />
La Perle de Prague G-5, Praha 2, Rašínovo nábř. 80,<br />
MKarlovo nám., tel. 221 98 41 60, www.laperle.cz.<br />
Here you are nestled in the ginger curls atop Tančící Dům<br />
with a superb view across the Vltava. As you would expect<br />
from the exterior of the building, the design cuts a dash with<br />
clean and modern lines, with a kitchen to match. Prices are<br />
steep, they do have a three-course business lunch at 490Kč.<br />
Q Open Tue - Sat 12:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 22:30; Mon 19:00<br />
- 22:30. Closed Sun. (750 - 1,000Kč). ABPU<br />
Petřínské Terasy A-4, Praha 1, Seminářská zahrada<br />
13, tel. 257 32 06 88, www.petrinsketerasy.cz.<br />
The restaurant with one of the best views of Prague sits<br />
halfway up Petřín Hill and is furnished in a Slovak country<br />
cottage kind of way. Cuisine is the somewhat traditional<br />
international and Czech variety, and live dulcimer music<br />
accompanies dinner. Take the funicular to the Nebozizek<br />
stop. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(160 - 280Kč). AIEB<br />
Rio’s Vyšehrad H-7, Praha 2, Štulcova 2, MVyšehrad,<br />
tel. 224 92 21 56/602 75 10 35, www.riorestaurant.<br />
cz. High on Vyšehrad sits Rio’s, home to an old fashioned<br />
dining area, more relaxed café space and large terrace. The<br />
Mediterranean menu has nine carpaccio varieties, eight<br />
variations of steak tartare (including, bizarrely, a vegetarian<br />
one), spaghetti al dente and fresh fish from France and Scandinavia.<br />
A prime spot for lunch, dinner or coffee on the tourist<br />
trail. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (140 - 490Kč). AB<br />
TV Tower K-4, Praha 3, Mahlerovy sady, MJiřího<br />
z Poděbrad, tel. 242 41 87 78, www.tower.cz. This<br />
landmark seems equally loved and hated. Whichever<br />
your decision, the view is tremendous and you can eat<br />
at the restaurant or café while contemplating the reality<br />
of vertigo. Prices are higher than at other, more down-toearth<br />
spots. You have to pay the 150/75Kč admission<br />
fee regardless, but you will get a 5% discount on your bill.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (180 - 350Kč). ALPT<br />
Zlatá Praha E-1, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 43/5<br />
(InterContinental Hotel), MStaroměstská, tel. 296<br />
63 99 14, www.prague.interconti.com. One the<br />
city’s most renowned restaurants, Golden Prague offers<br />
a changing menu of international and Czech nouvelle<br />
cuisine, business lunches for the more budget conscious<br />
gourmet, and a Sunday brunch accompanied by live jazz.<br />
Q Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:30. (500 - 800Kč).<br />
ABEGP<br />
Zvonice I-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská věž, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 224 22 00 09, www.restaurantzvonice.<br />
cz. Head to the top three floors of this Gothic bell tower,<br />
complete with 15th century bell. Zvonice is decorated<br />
with giant oak beams and serves everything from snails,<br />
carpaccio, steak and fish to classic Czech dishes. Don’t<br />
miss the view from the gallery up top. Gorgeous and<br />
exceedingly posh. Lunch menu for 290Kč. QOpen 11:30<br />
- 24:00. (400 - 750Kč). A<br />
RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
La Degustation F-2, Praha 1, Haštalská 18, MNám.<br />
Republiky, tel. 222 31 12 34, www.ladegustation.cz.<br />
This self-styled Bohemian Bourgeoisie restaurant from the<br />
Ambiente Group is a luxurious corner restaurant with an<br />
open kitchen and a private dining room feel to it. Set menus<br />
intrigue the senses with a heady list of amuse-bouche, there<br />
is a pre- and post-theatre menu, and the sommelier has created<br />
a superb wine list. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.<br />
(945 - 2,450Kč). A<br />
La Veranda E-2, Praha 1, Elišky Krásnohorské 2,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 47 33, www.laveranda.<br />
cz. ‘Brave, original, creative, and innovative.’ La Veranda lives<br />
up to its credo, and surpasses it in a style unlike any other<br />
in Prague. The fusion cuisine satisfies the eye as well as the<br />
palate, offering choices that are low on fat. In the ultra modern<br />
Zen-like atmosphere, La Veranda touts chef-of-the-year<br />
(2002) Radek David’s creativity. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />
16:00 - 23:00. (350 - 500Kč). APT<br />
Noodles F-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 12/913,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 234 10 01 10, www.noodles.cz. Now with<br />
a superb summer garden and shortcut through to Wenceslas<br />
Square, the world of noodles is right on our doorstep. Excellent<br />
lunch deals bring people flocking but dinner still needs some<br />
tweaking to attract diners. Italian, Japanese, Thai, Mongolian,<br />
etc. variations available from 99Kč. The gorgeously tactile<br />
interior design of the host (Yasmin) hotel doesn’t distract.<br />
QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. (100 - 350Kč). ABLPTW<br />
Nostress E-1, Praha 1, Dušní 10, MStaroměstská, tel.<br />
222 31 70 07, www.nostress.cz. They’re not kidding. With<br />
comfortable designer furniture and steady ambient music,<br />
stress is the last thing on your mind. Fusion and Asian cuisine<br />
dominate the menu, but you shouldn’t pass up a chance to try<br />
one of the delicious Belgian desserts - the owner is Belgian.<br />
Highlights include dim sum and wontons as well as celebrity<br />
sightings (Joseph Fiennes, Maggie Smith and, er, Begbie).<br />
Loud live music on Saturday evenings. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (250 - 600Kč). AEIP<br />
Oliva Praha 2, Plavecká 4, tel. 222 52 02 88, www.<br />
olivarestaurant.cz. The superb Le Bistrot de Marlene is<br />
a hard space to fill, but Oliva, while being a wholly different<br />
restaurant, has managed to keep folks happy with its Mediterranean<br />
flair and flavour. The chef from La Perle de Prague<br />
provides a succulent, sense sensation with almost every<br />
dish to counter the somewhat twee interior. Theme nights<br />
with guest chefs, a good wine list and superb olive oils add<br />
to the great service and menu. Tram N° 3, 7, 16, 17, 21 to<br />
Výton. Q Open 11:30 - 15:00; 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.<br />
(150 - 550Kč). A<br />
Parnas C-4, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábř. 2, MNárodní<br />
třída, tel. 224 23 96 04. A lovely little restaurant on the<br />
Vltava which is proving to be immensely popular with all kinds<br />
of diners who come to enjoy the super international cuisine.<br />
You will too. A non-tourist trap in the most tourist-trapped<br />
of cities, and therefore a joy. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (100<br />
- 350Kč). AGP<br />
Perfect I-3, Praha 1, Soukenická 4, MNáměstí Republiky,<br />
tel. 222 31 16 00, www.perfectrestaurant.cz. A very<br />
risky name for a new restaurant, but the cheeky guys running<br />
this café/restaurant/club certainly have a point. With great<br />
breakfast deals, the 195-295Kč eat-all-you-can lunch menus<br />
and imaginative a-la-carte dining in the evening, it certainly<br />
sounds perfect – there’s even a children’s menu. After dark,<br />
the place transforms into a club with daily DJ music and a wide<br />
range of cocktails. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. AGPX<br />
Pravda E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 17, MStaroměstská, tel. 222<br />
32 62 03. Not just the name of the old communist party mouthpiece<br />
(and a terrific Tom Stoppard play), but also a successful dining<br />
room, with huge windows for maximum pose street visibility, great<br />
high white walls and a very enviable mezzanine floor shaped like a<br />
box at the opera. The vichysoisse 165Kč and a delicious tagliatelle<br />
with parma ham 245Kč, are very good. Another Tommy Sjöö restaurant.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (250 - 600Kč). ABGP<br />
SOHO+ Praha 4, Podolské nábř. 1, tel. 244 46 37 72,<br />
www.sohorestaurant.cz. Exquisite interior design creates<br />
chiffon-divided private spaces in this fine dining location with a<br />
great terrace down the river at Dvorce. Mussels parmesan (or<br />
any way) make a great starter, your steak is cooked exactly as<br />
you ordered it and there’s a good range of Greek food. Service<br />
was bumbling on our last visit (long waits and disappearing ashtrays)<br />
but the food is still worth it. Wine from 300Kč upwards.<br />
QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (300 - 1,000Kč). PAB<br />
Střelecký ostrov C-4, Praha 1, Střelecký ostrov 336,<br />
tel. 224 93 40 28, www.streleckyostrov.cz. Perched on<br />
the eponymous island halfway Most Legii bridge, this elegant<br />
restaurant pleases weary walkers with affordable lunches while<br />
plying hedonists with wine and food from the gourmet menu. It<br />
has a bright and spacious inside seating area and cosy medieval<br />
cellars, but the main draw is the terrace with great views of<br />
rowers and the National Theatre. Mind the enterprising waiters<br />
who will happily and illegally add their own tip to the bill if you’re<br />
not Czech. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. ABGPU<br />
Suterén G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo nábř. 26, MNárodí<br />
třída, tel. 224 93 36 57, www.suteren.com. Featuring<br />
such alcohol-flavoured dishes as salmon mojito - marinaded<br />
with Caribbean rum and mint, pheasant on slivovice and even<br />
lemon sorbet with vodka, this place is too intriguing to miss.<br />
The eclectic menu lists New Zealand mussels, Moscow caviar,<br />
escargot, carpaccio and pasta, plus Thai dishes. In the cellar,<br />
modern furnishings complement the bare brick walls. QOpen<br />
11:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (150 - 320Kč). AP<br />
Vltava H-2, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 100,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 234 61 41 00, www.hotelpresident.cz.<br />
The appropriately named restaurant has panoramic<br />
views of the river, a suitably designed interior and creative<br />
menu to match. Steak with roasted shallots served with<br />
mashed potato, monkfish, Tandoori and delicious desserts to<br />
match the good wine list. QOpen 18:30 - 23:30. PTA<br />
Noodles from all<br />
around the world<br />
Restaurant Café Bar Noodles (in Hotel Yasmin)<br />
Politických vězňů 12/913, 110 00 Prague 1, Czech Republic<br />
T: +420 234 100 100, F: +420 234 100 125<br />
www.hotel-yasmin.cz, info@hotel-yasmin.cz<br />
April - May 2007<br />
39
40<br />
RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
The Czech Menu<br />
The Czech language is notoriously difficult for foreign<br />
tongues to get to grips with, not only for the unusual letters,<br />
but also because it is a heavily declined language.<br />
Your menu will hold various variations on the theme, but<br />
with the following words as a basis, you should be able<br />
to figure out what’s in your mouth.<br />
bez masa without meat<br />
biftek beefsteak<br />
brambor potato<br />
domácí home made<br />
dušené steamed<br />
grilované grilled<br />
guláš goulash, the Czech staple<br />
hermelín brie, often pickled with garlic<br />
and eaten with beer<br />
hovězí beef<br />
hranolky chips/french fries<br />
jehněčí lamb<br />
jídelní lístek food menu<br />
jídlo food<br />
knedlíky dumplings<br />
kuře chicken<br />
losos salmon<br />
na roštu roasted<br />
nápojový lístek drinks menu<br />
niva blue cheese<br />
oběd lunch<br />
řízek schnitzel<br />
ovoce fruit<br />
palačinky crepe<br />
pečené baked<br />
pivní sýr beer cheese, hard and served with<br />
paprika and onion, eaten with beer<br />
plněné stuffed<br />
přílohy side dishes<br />
polévka soup<br />
pstruh trout<br />
ryba fish<br />
rýže rice<br />
sekaná meatloaf; looks awful, tastes good<br />
slanina bacon<br />
smažené fried<br />
smažený sýr fried cheese, surprisingly good<br />
snídaně breakfast<br />
svíčková beef in cream sauce<br />
sýr cheese<br />
špíz grilled and skewered<br />
šunka ham<br />
těstoviny pasta<br />
utopenec a.k.a. drowned man,<br />
pickled sausage, eaten with beer<br />
uzené smoked<br />
vařené boiled<br />
večeře dinner<br />
vepřové pork<br />
vepřové koleno pork knee,<br />
particularly carnivorous<br />
vinný lístek wine menu<br />
zelenina vegetables<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
V Zátiší D-3, Praha 1, Liliová 1, MMůstek, tel. 222<br />
22 11 55, www.pfd.cz. A restaurant and wine bar that is<br />
possibly the best in Prague. Indeed, the best things about it<br />
(apart from the delicious pear-gorgonzola salad, the chocolate<br />
parfait with raspberries and the perfect latte) are the relaxed,<br />
intimate atmosphere, and the waiters who enjoy their jobs and<br />
know their wines. Not to be missed. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00;<br />
17:30 - 23:00. (600 - 1,500Kč). AGPU<br />
Zahrada v Opeře I-5, Praha 1, Legerova 75, MMuzeum,<br />
tel. 224 23 96 85, www.zahradavopere.cz. One of the<br />
most stylish restaurants in Prague occupies the brutalist<br />
former parliament building, which, by an ironic twist of fate,<br />
also houses the well-guarded offices of Radio Free Europe.<br />
Its inventive and often extravagantly presented dishes as<br />
well as its proximity to the opera, ensure a loyal dinner crowd<br />
each night.The multilingual staff doesn’t stop pampering until<br />
the fat lady has sung. Now with a new South African inspired<br />
menu and sushi on Thursdays. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (150<br />
- 400Kč). AEPU<br />
Italian<br />
Cicala I-5, Praha 1, Žitná 43, MKarlovo nám., tel. 222<br />
21 03 75. The entrance is nondescript, but once down inside<br />
the cellar restaurant all doubts fade away. This place is good<br />
- especially the plates of steaming cozze (mussles). But there<br />
is more than seafood; great pasta, super wines, service with<br />
charm, smiles and patience, and photos showing the great<br />
and the good dining here. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. Closed<br />
Sun. (120 - 250Kč). AP<br />
dANico E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 21, MNám. Republiky, tel.<br />
222 31 18 07, www.danico.cz. The sleeper hit of Prague,<br />
dANico presents a warm atmosphere, great service and<br />
delicious Italian cuisine. With lamb and swordfish carpaccio,<br />
vegetarian lasagne, home made tiramisu and some 300<br />
Italian wines to complement your meal, this is becoming the<br />
talk about town. Wines from 400Kč to four figures. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 01:00. (160 - 470Kč). AGP<br />
Don Giovanni C-3, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 34/208,<br />
MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 20 60, www.dongiovanni.<br />
cz. This place has a fantastic view of Charles Bridge and the<br />
castle. As with all Italian restaurants, the food is the thing,<br />
and this is probably the best in town. Choose from starters<br />
such as fresh pappardelle with cream sauce and Parma ham<br />
or fulfilling mains such as scaloppina di vitello al limone o vino<br />
marsala - every bit as tantalising as it sounds. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 24:00. (250 - 450Kč). AEGIPTU<br />
Giovanni E-3, Praha 1, Kožná 11, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 221 63 26 05. The bits of exposed rock, the walls and<br />
vaulted ceiling of this cosy restaurant are a respectable faux<br />
medieval. Luckily, the stars, vines and other painted flora<br />
won’t distract you from the menu, which is so extensive that<br />
we gave up halfway through it. If it’s Italian and you want<br />
it, chances are Giovanni’s got it and it’s good. The Balkan<br />
breakfast sounds appealing, but avoid the bruschetta at all<br />
costs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (100 - 350Kč). A<br />
Kogo E-3, Praha 1, Havelská 27, MMůstek, tel.<br />
224 21 45 43, www.kogo.cz. Kogo is one of the best<br />
restaurants in Prague, for all number of reasons. Location,<br />
service, consistent high quality food, and ambience. The<br />
atmosphere is trendy and businesslike, full of movers and<br />
shakers enjoying good pasta, seafood and one of the best<br />
wine lists in the city. We love it. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
Also at F-3, Praha 1, Na příkopě 22 (Slovansky Dům). (120<br />
- 250Kč). ABPTU<br />
RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
L’Angolo E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 7, MNáměstí Republiky,<br />
tel. 224 82 93 55. A relaxing, upscale Italian “restaurant<br />
lounge” set in a spacious corner building near to the Old Town<br />
square. Diners are lured in by the sight of display cases with<br />
tasty-looking pasta and vegetable dishes, and some deserts.<br />
Apart from well-prepared Italian meat and fish dishes,<br />
L’Angolo also has a wood-fired pizza oven adjacent to the<br />
cellar seating area. A sister restaurant of the excellent Kogo,<br />
L’Angolo has the impeccable service and great food that we<br />
expected. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. ABP<br />
Japanese<br />
Hokkaido D-4, Praha 1, Národní 23, MNárodní třída,<br />
tel. 224 21 18 88. Simply decorated in bamboo, paper<br />
lamps and knock-off samurai swords, this small sushi bar<br />
offers hot dishes as well as sashimi and sushi for exorbitant<br />
prices considering the quality. If nothing else, a small shop is<br />
also available which sells a great selection of Asian spices,<br />
oils, beer and other cooking supplies. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(250 - 350Kč). AS<br />
Korea House I-5, Praha 2, Sokolská 52, MI. P. Pavlova,<br />
tel. 224 26 62 46, www.koreahouse.cz. Paper<br />
lanterns illuminate the yellow walls that feature manly<br />
Asian men wrestling, shouting and smoking. The colourful<br />
interior is as chaotic as the menu which lists both Korean<br />
and Japanese specialities such as pibimbap and loads of<br />
sushi. A celebrity has left a saucy slogan next to his picture<br />
in mysterious characters, but it’s all Korean to us. The food<br />
is good, but the servings could be bigger for all the cabbage<br />
one has to pay. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (300<br />
- 500Kč). APT<br />
Made In Japan D-3, Praha 1, Křížovnická 4,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 608 74 96 50, www.madeinjapan.cz.<br />
The sushi bar by the Four Seasons captures<br />
the raw tourist with a wide and colourful menu including<br />
sashimi and nigri, roe and eel, while the sister restaurant<br />
provides tempura and teriyaki. A good combo. A buy two<br />
get one free happy hour runs from 15:00 - 18:00 at the<br />
sushi bar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at E-4, Rytířská<br />
10, tel. 224 235 604. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 500Kč).<br />
AGPS<br />
Man-na E-1, Praha 1, U Milosrdných 10, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 32 01 01. A new Korean restaurant serving up spicy<br />
kimchi, bulgogi (beef BBQ) and other Korean specialities such<br />
as snails and octopus to stir fry and glazed pigs’ feet. If that<br />
doesn’t tempt you, perhaps their 500Kč/hr karaoke room<br />
might. Q Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00; 18:00 - 23:00<br />
Sun. (200 - 350Kč). A<br />
Millhouse Sushi-Kaitan F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 22,<br />
MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 71 60 03. In a bright shiny<br />
space, bright and shiny Japanese plates whizz around on a<br />
belt so that you can select which small bright and shiny food<br />
you want. The savings on staff costs must be impressive.<br />
The second venue is a take away kiosk with good, well priced<br />
sushi plates. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also at I-4, Světozor<br />
Pazasz, open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (200<br />
- 1,000Kč). AP<br />
Miyabi H-5, Praha 1, Navrátilova 10, MKarlovo nám.,<br />
tel. 296 23 31 02, www.miyabi.cz. If you like your Japanese<br />
a little more relaxed (and let’s face it, they are very formal),<br />
then this intimate restaurant offers a café style at the front<br />
of the house and private rooms at the back. Well-presented<br />
food aimed at the non-expert. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (250 - 500Kč). AGU<br />
SushiPoint F-3, Myslbek Centre, Praha 1, Na Příkopě<br />
19, MMůstek, tel. 608 64 39 23, www.sushipoint.<br />
cz. In the sterile environs of a shopping centre is this warm<br />
(with wood, bamboo and saki) and delicious sushi outlet.<br />
Pleasingly clean design; check out the nifty menu niches so<br />
you can examine the pictorial menu as you wait for your uni<br />
nigiri, sashimi or maki rolls. Good wine, excellent service and<br />
good sushi of course, raise this from typical mall fare. Take<br />
away and delivery available. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (180<br />
- 600Kč). AS<br />
YAMI E-2, Praha 1, Masná 3, MStaroměstská, tel.<br />
222 31 27 56. A new venue touted by many as the best<br />
sushi in town plus awesome bibimbap, saki and kimchi<br />
that brings tears to eye - although their prices might also.<br />
Décor is simple black, orange and bamboo. The house<br />
specialty: the Yami roll is one of their big sushi mains: a<br />
large log of omelette, crab, seaweed and beef sliced for<br />
your pleasure. 400Kč buffet usually on the first Sunday of<br />
the month. Recommended QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (150<br />
- 600Kč). A<br />
Latin American<br />
Ambiente Brasileiro E-3, Praha 1, U Radnice 8,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 23 44 74, www.ambi.cz.<br />
Don’t be alarmed when a man brandishing a large skewer of<br />
meat appears before you and starts slicing bloody chunks<br />
of beef onto your plate. In addition to the churrasco grill,<br />
delicious pastas and appetisers are also offered with Brazilian<br />
flair - and it’s eat all you possibly can, so take some<br />
time. If you pay up before 18:00, the price is 445Kč for<br />
the meat churrasco. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Also at F-3,<br />
Na Přikopě 22 - Slovanský Dům, tel. 221 45 12 00. (225<br />
- 545Kč). AP<br />
Don Pedro G/H-5, Praha 2, Masarykovo nábř. 2,<br />
MKarlovo nám., tel. 224 923 505, www.donpedro.<br />
cz. The only thing that will kidnap you in this Columbian<br />
restaurant is the taste of the fabulous food; from Columbian<br />
fried yuca and cola guisada, to excellent steak<br />
and Mexican favourites. And then there are the tropical<br />
cocktails, native coffee and South American wine. Almost<br />
makes you want to book a flight to Bogota but now<br />
there’s Don Pedro here... QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (130<br />
- 280Kč). APS<br />
April - May 2007<br />
41
42<br />
RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
La Bodeguita del Medio D-2, Praha 1, Kaprova 5,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 39 22, www.bodeguita.<br />
cz. Piles of ripe fruit and coconuts for cocktails, Latin beats,<br />
an illuminated bust of Papa and sky-blue wooden clapboard<br />
ceilings with dangling fans emanate a distinctly Caribbean<br />
feeling. Try Creole cooking and seafood galore at this Cuban<br />
restaurant whose sister establishments dot the globe from<br />
Old Havana to Oman and now Prague. Excellent cigar shop out<br />
the back. Kitchen closes at 24:00. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.<br />
(100 - 1,000Kč). ABEIPTU<br />
Lebanese<br />
Byblos F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 14, MNám. Republiky, tel. 221<br />
84 21 21, www.biblos.cz. The shopping centre location may<br />
not be inspiring, but the soothing music and the lush, hanging<br />
foliage is sublime. Choose either Lebanese or Mediterranean cuisine<br />
from two separate menus or just ask for the chef to whip up<br />
something special. Inexpensive pizza, authentic Middle Eastern<br />
dishes and strong coffee poured from traditional copper serving<br />
cups make Byblos a welcome stop. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 250Kč). AP<br />
Medieval<br />
Cartouche E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 14, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 224 81 95 97, www.cartouche.cz. A dark dungeon of<br />
delights awaits you, full of big and busty spit-roasted or barbequed<br />
bones and live medieval music. Hale, hearty and heavy<br />
- the food and the furniture. Enjoy, but go hungry. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (300 - 600Kč). AI<br />
U Sádlů I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 2, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 224 81 38 74, www.usadlu.cz. Gargantuan medieval<br />
banqueting (with appropriate carnivorous leanings as well<br />
as great fish) served by buxom Hell’s Angels in a cavernous<br />
remake of the set of Monty Python and the Holy Grail.<br />
Tankards of ale slapped down in front of you until you scream<br />
‘when!’ and indulge your Ivanhoe fantasies. Book early or take<br />
a battering ram. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. Also at J-5, Praha 2,<br />
Balbínova 22. (150 - 300Kč). AIP<br />
The Prague<br />
telephone code is +420<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Pizza<br />
Coloseum I-4, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 8, MMůstek, tel.<br />
224 23 83 55, www.pizzacoloseum.cz. A pizza-maker<br />
slaving away in front of the flames of a wood-burning oven<br />
is the only spectacle you’ll witness at this coliseum. Sample<br />
excellent pastas and pizzas made with real mozzarella in a<br />
rustic setting. Try the Calabrese, it’s what Yanks call a pepperoni<br />
pie. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. Also at F-3, Vodičkova 32.<br />
(100 - 200Kč). ABP<br />
Pizza Marzano I-5, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 802/56,<br />
MMuzeum, tel. 224 03 23 00, www.pizzamarzano.cz.<br />
Those who know and love England’s Pizza Express chain<br />
(est. 1965) will be thrilled to know their signature Florentine<br />
pizzas are as authentic as ever, prepared in the open kitchen<br />
and cooked to perfection in the pizza oven. Italian wine, beer<br />
and fresh pasta join the pizza menu, with lunch specials and<br />
kids’ menus as good additions.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (180<br />
- 480Kč). ATWX<br />
Pizza Nuova Praha 1, Revoluční 1, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 221 80 33 08, www.ambi.cz. The Ambiente group turn<br />
their talented hands to this eat all you can antipasti and/or<br />
pizza & pasta restaurant. Well planned location adjacent to<br />
the massive shopping centre, the Palladium, set to open late<br />
2007. A huge restaurant with trestle type seating, Ambiente’s<br />
trademark flair and an extensive Italian and Czech wine list.<br />
QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. APT<br />
Russian<br />
Matrjoska I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 36, MMůstek,<br />
tel. 777 77 96 88, www.oasiscity.cz. On the fourth floor of<br />
the Oasis CITY empire, the spacious lounge-like interior of this<br />
restaurant offers diners dishes prepared by a Russian cook.<br />
There’s a variety of authentic Russian and Ukrainian dishes<br />
including solyanka and pelmeni; order the more complicated<br />
ones a day in advance. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30, Sun 08:00<br />
- 10:00. ABLU<br />
Petrovič E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 8, MMůstek, tel. 224<br />
21 06 35. Petrovič is a non-political cartoon character<br />
who recalls life’s simple pleasures – like hearty traditional<br />
food cooked well and the infamous horseradish vodka<br />
(80Kč). Grab a colourful table in one of three rooms and<br />
enjoy traditional Russian (plus Czech & international) cuisine<br />
to the tune of taped soundtrack during the day. Live<br />
music most nights starts at 20:00, with a retro disco on<br />
Fridays in the bust-strewn cellar. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
(40 - 200Kč). E<br />
Seafood<br />
Reykjavík D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 20, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 22 12 18, www.reykjavik.cz. A plush, dark<br />
wooden interior sets the scene for you to experience some<br />
of the best seafood available in Prague. We can recommend<br />
the ‘fruit of the sea’ soup or the tenderloin of tuna. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00. (250 - 600Kč). ABEPT<br />
Rybí trh E-2, Praha 1, Týnský dvůr 5, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 224 89 54 47, www.rybitrh.cz. With a choice from<br />
live or freshly imported fish, one can swim through this menu<br />
with delight knowing whatever is chosen will truly satisfy.<br />
Chef Pavel Mares works his magic on the Caribbean Lobster,<br />
fresh from the aquarium in any style. St. Jacob’s scallops is<br />
a speciality only to be savoured, and the imperial mussels<br />
truly deserve their name. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (190<br />
- 890Kč). AG<br />
RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
Pavel Vítek<br />
Slovak<br />
Posezení U čiriny H-5, Praha 1, Navrátilova 6, MNárodní<br />
třída, tel. 222 23 17 09. Small and many-roomed, U<br />
čiriny is a rambling grandmother’s house of a restaurant and<br />
the cooking is as tasty and homemade. Trademark haluška<br />
(goat’s cheese and bacon on gnocchi) is the arguably the<br />
best in town, the spicy chicken nuggets are a world away from<br />
fast food varieties and the whole experience has led to the<br />
necessity for reservations. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed<br />
Sun. (80 - 270Kč). ABPT<br />
Spanish<br />
La Bodega J-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 32, tel. 222 24 09 91,<br />
www.labodega.eu. Take seat in the stylish restaurant upstairs,<br />
the relaxed high-tabled tapas bar on street level or the cellar.<br />
The tapas is authentic and tasty – and thankfully tables are big<br />
enough to accommodate the myriad dishes that make up the<br />
meal. Paella and main courses are all expertly cooked by the flamboyant<br />
Spanish-resident, Czech chef in the semi-open kitchen<br />
and flamenco dancing adds to the Hispanic flair on Thursdays.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (200 - 600Kč). AEP<br />
Thai further afield<br />
NEW<br />
The Noodle Bar H-7, Praha 2, Plavecká 4, tel. 602 37<br />
09 84, www.noodle.cz. Small and tasty - the food and the<br />
interior. This new hot spot with Wi-Fi has been attracting the<br />
expat crowd for its well priced though not enormous dishes<br />
of noodles, fried rice, dumplings and delicious salads. Heat<br />
indicators abound but this palate found nothing too spicy on<br />
the menu. Lovely wait staff and service uplift the experience.<br />
Two internet terminals for those without laptops. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 22:00. (95 - 185Kč). GSW<br />
Fast food<br />
In Prague, Ronald McDonald takes a backseat to Colonel<br />
Sanders who appears to be, well, everywhere. Quick<br />
slices of pizza and kebabs are also a popular treat<br />
around town and can be had 24hrs at the bottom of<br />
Wenceslas Square. Here are a few places worth a visit.<br />
Bohemia Bagel I-6, Praha 2, Tylovo nám. (Rumunská<br />
corner), MI.P. Pavlova, tel. 603 19 66 36.<br />
Bohemia Bagel opens their express outlet serving all<br />
day breakfast bagels and deli sandwich fillings plus good<br />
coffee. Call ahead to pick up probably the biggest bagels<br />
in the world. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30.<br />
Dahab Yalla F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám.<br />
Republiky, tel. 224 82 73 75, www.dahab.cz. The<br />
fast food yin to it’s much larger sister establishment’s<br />
yang, this colourful cafeteria offers all of the falafel and<br />
other Middle Eastern treats you can handle, without the<br />
ambience and without the wait. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.<br />
Closed Sun. (60 - 150Kč). S<br />
Endy’s H-4, Praha 1, Spálená 41, MNárodní třída,<br />
tel. 604 21 74 63, www.endys.net. Healthy fast food?<br />
Surely not? Yes and in that den of iniquitous gyros and<br />
pizza, Národní třída no less. What Endy’s calls a Hooper,<br />
we call a wrap. The French holds couscous, chicken and<br />
fresh spinach. Salads and other Hoopers (Thai, Italian<br />
etc.) are available with their calorie count. A meal deal has<br />
OJ and air cooked potatoes. Enjoy their desert and coffee<br />
too. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (60 - 150Kč).<br />
Chez Amis H-5, Praha 1, Spálená 15, MNárodní<br />
třída, tel. 224 93 22 77. Fast food milieu with home<br />
cooked flavour from this Turkish place that serves up<br />
cheap and delicious gyro, felafel and lamb mains. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Thai Spice Praha 3, Palác Flóra, Vinohradská 151,<br />
MFlóra, tel. 222 74 20 38. The always busy fast food<br />
outlet of Orange Moon. Watch the Thai guys cook up your<br />
noodle or curry dishes in front of you. Chillies on the menu<br />
indicate the heat quotient, which is as ever, less than we<br />
hope for, as is the flavour unfortunately. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 22:00. (65 - 120Kč).<br />
Thai<br />
Arzenal D-2, Praha 1, Valentinská 11, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 224 81 40 99, www.arzenal.cz. This unusual and quality<br />
mix of Thai restaurant and glass design shop hosts a limited<br />
though excellent brunch/lunch buffet daily for just 170Kč. A<br />
special gourmet section of the menu is available for those who<br />
do not mind shelling out a little more for shellfish and other such<br />
luxuries. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (150 - 600Kč). AP<br />
Lemon Leaf H-5, Praha 2, Na Zderaze 14, MKarlovo<br />
nám., tel. 224 91 90 56, www.lemon.cz. The large photo<br />
of a rice paddy at sunset sets the tone for this international<br />
restaurant whose speciality is Thai cuisine although their<br />
menu offers excellent non-Thai dishes. Steamed rice in tiny<br />
woven baskets and the special symbols next to spicy dishes<br />
on the menu are welcome touches, but the Lemon Leaf’s<br />
most alluring quality is its affordable prices, which seldom<br />
rise above the 150Kč mark. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri<br />
11:00 - 00:30, Sat 12:30 - 00:30, Sun 10:30 - 23:00. (100<br />
- 200Kč). ABTU<br />
April - May 2007<br />
43
44<br />
RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
Wine bars<br />
Beer might be the great Czech tradition but wine is<br />
also produced here - and while it is not one of the best<br />
vintners in the world, there are some good wine bars<br />
around.<br />
Bandol F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 32 15 21, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. Located<br />
in the quaint brick cellar of a medieval building across<br />
the narrow street from Týn Church, Bandol offers a good<br />
selection of local and European wines as well as a full<br />
menu of international dishes from the restaurant on the<br />
ground floor. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. AE<br />
Bokovka H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 8, tel. 605 22 86<br />
68. Czech and international wines in the heart of Prague<br />
opened by film directors Jan Hřebejk (Pupendo, Horem<br />
pádem) & David Ondřiček (Samotári). Large wine list and<br />
there is no smoking to mess with the taste buds. QOpen<br />
16.00 - 01.00, Fri, Sat 16.00 - 03.00. G<br />
Cellarius J-5, Praha 2, Budečská 29, MMuzeum,<br />
tel. 222 51 52 43, www.cellarius.cz. Wine bar with<br />
summer garden and wine cellar with stock from Moravia<br />
and Burgundy. QOpen 10:30 - 21:00, Sat 12:00<br />
- 21:00. Closed Sun. Also at I-4, Praha 1, Štěpánská<br />
61 (pasáž Lucerna). Open Mon-Sat 09:30 - 21:00; Sun<br />
15:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Monarch D-4, Praha 1, Na Perštýně, MNárodní<br />
třída, tel. 224 23 96 02, www.monarch.cz. Wine bar<br />
and shop featuring classic and novice wine from all over<br />
the world. Settle into its warm wooden interior and don’t<br />
worry about the rather ripe smell, it’s the cheese. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at I-5, Václavské<br />
nám. 64, tel. 222 21 03 82, open 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
Pavelka H-5, Praha 1, Spálená 8, MNárodní třída,<br />
tel. 604 76 08 66, www.pavelkavino.cz. Pavelka is<br />
one of the most renowned vineyards of the Malokarpatské,<br />
the Small Carpathian Mountains, just outside<br />
Bratislava. Pavelka’s home is Pezinok, the regional<br />
capital of this Slovak wine region, and Pavelka’s excellent<br />
wines are now available to try and buy in this shop<br />
and bar. It’s small but delicious, and the owner will open<br />
at other times by appointment. QOpen 13:00 - 20:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
U Sudu Praha 1, Vodičkova 10, MMůstek, tel. 222<br />
23 22 07, www.usudu.cz. What looks like a small wine<br />
bar from street level descends into a labyrinth of deeper,<br />
darker and often dirtier rooms and corridors packed full<br />
of students (old and young) and smoke. You might need<br />
to employ Ariadne’s trick to get out of here again… Wine<br />
is the forte but beer and other drinks are available too.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. K<br />
Viniční Altán K-7, Praha 2, Havlíčkovy sady,<br />
Gröbovka, MNám. Míru, www.vinicni-altan.cz.<br />
Small wine bar in the park overlooking Nusle valley<br />
which in the summer becomes one of the coolest spots<br />
to hang out, drink some wine, chat with friends and<br />
generally take in the fantastic view from their rooftop<br />
pagoda. With art shows on the walls and even tango<br />
and salsa nights (tel. 602 44 75 03 for details) right in<br />
the middle of the park, this is a great place. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 21:00. B<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Modrý zub F-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská 5, MMůstek, tel.<br />
222 21 26 22, www.modryzub.com. The Blue Tooth<br />
looks like an Ikea café until you notice the bowls of spicy<br />
noodles and curry being served by cheerful waitresses<br />
and devoured by happy punters. This noodle bar takes<br />
Thai fast food to a higher level with delicious curries,<br />
made to order glass, rice and yellow noodle dishes, sushi,<br />
maki, soups and salads. Excellent service, lovely spot.<br />
Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. Thu, Fri & Sat 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
(60 - 180Kč). ST<br />
Siam Orchid I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 21, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 222 31 94 10, www.siamorchid.cz. Evocative<br />
aromas entice to this hidden first floor restaurant. While the<br />
authenticity of the place is not added to by the décor, the Thai<br />
massage next door (600Kč/hr), Singha beer and mention of<br />
farangs on the menu point to a real Thai dining experience.<br />
And the food doesn’t disappoint. A true and delicious slice<br />
of Siam in a very Czech courtyard. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
(120 - 200Kč). B<br />
Vegetarian<br />
Beas F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 19, MStaroměstská, tel.<br />
777 16 54 78, www.beas-dhaba.cz. Original Indian<br />
metal trays hold your chosen veggie menu - small or large<br />
curry meal, noodles, parantha menu, the massive thali and<br />
more. Desserts and lassi are also available and tables have<br />
jugs of free water to quench the small fires the somewhat<br />
spicy dishes produce. Excellent and deservedly popular.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (70 - 130Kč).<br />
PGBS<br />
Clear Head (Lehká hlava) D-4, Praha 1, Boršov 2,<br />
MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 06 65, www.lehkahlava.cz.<br />
Healthy and delicious, this veggie place doesn’t take itself<br />
too seriously and despite the name, does serve alcohol. The<br />
open kitchen produces ratatouille, pasta, salads, burritos and<br />
more, with tofu (try it smoked) and eggplant high on the menu.<br />
Fresh juices can be combined to detox while you sit and chill,<br />
eat and chat in the cool décor of their three distinct rooms.<br />
Tricky to find, down a small alley, but worth it. Q Open 11:30<br />
- 24:00. (80 - 150Kč). GN<br />
Country Life E-3, Praha 1, Melantrichova 15,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 224 21 33 66, www.countrylife.cz.<br />
From humble beginnings as a take-away bar, this place is<br />
packed at lunchtimes with long queues at the caféteriastyle<br />
counter. That’s because even non-vegetarians are<br />
impressed by the salads, pizza and soups, although some<br />
are bland. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 20:30. Closed Sat. Also at H-4, Jungmannova 1. (75<br />
- 150Kč). GPTU<br />
Franz Kafka D-2, Praha 1, Široká 12, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 31 89 45. Inscriptions from the Great Man, and<br />
black and white photographs of old Prague adorn the walls.<br />
There’s a room out back for discussing the implications of<br />
The Trial or Metamorphosis in muted privacy. Chess and<br />
backgammon boards available. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (40<br />
- 100Kč). T<br />
Klub architektů D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské nám. 5a,<br />
MNárodní třída, tel. 224 40 12 14. The enormous, wideranging<br />
menu and wonderful location are reasons enough to<br />
give this place a try, but the Escher-esque tangle of superfluous<br />
copper piping and machinery, and the scary spiders that<br />
make them their home, are the focal point of an evening in<br />
this designer cavern. Comfort food at decent prices. QOpen<br />
11:30 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč). ABG<br />
The best way to celebrate springtime<br />
EASTER<br />
7–9 April 2007<br />
Warm starter • Gratinated goat‘s cheese in a fine batter served on a prune salad<br />
Soup • Cream of vegetable soup with poached quail‘s egg<br />
Main dish • Roast lamb cutlets with rosemary and thyme in a crust of olive<br />
tapenada, patissons stuffed with spinach leaves and potato crepes<br />
with parmesan<br />
Dessert • Easter almond cake served with English cream and fruits<br />
890 CZK<br />
Hotel President <br />
For reservation please call: + 420 234 614 138<br />
Náměstí Curieových 100 | 110 00 Prague 1 | www.hotelpresident.cz
46<br />
CAFÉS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
This chapter only reviews our selection of cafés in the Old<br />
and New Town, the well-touristed area between the river<br />
and Wilsonova road. For cafés in other areas of Prague turn<br />
to pages 58 - 70.<br />
Érra D-4, Praha 1, Konviktská 11, MNárodní třída,<br />
tel. 222 22 05 68. Small, funky and perfectly formed, this<br />
semi-sunken treasure trove is full to brimming with the hip and<br />
hungry. Salads, pasta and palačinky (crepes) jostle with the<br />
temptations of the desserts for your favours. The basement<br />
is popular with the gay community. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.<br />
(100 - 250Kč). AI<br />
Café Café E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 10, MMůstek, tel. 224<br />
21 05 97, www.cafe-cafe.cz. Café Café is a well-known gay<br />
hangout, but it also attracts hetero hipsters who look the<br />
look, talk the talk and wear the ware. Coffee, cocktails, large<br />
salads and the Mediterranean menu provide lubrication and<br />
sustenance. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(150 - 450Kč). AB<br />
Café Louvre D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní třída,<br />
tel. 224 93 09 49, www.cafelouvre.cz. In true French style,<br />
this historic café is for anything but bourgeois tastes. Café<br />
Louvre is a true slice of Czech life where a great breakfast is<br />
served that one can enjoy with an international newspaper.<br />
Whether you want to play a game of pool in the swank billiard<br />
hall or indulge in some fresh pastries over coffee, this is the<br />
perfect place to have a great café experience. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 23:30. (100 - 500Kč). AGPT<br />
Café Revive I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 36 (Marks<br />
& Spencer 2nd floor), MMůstek. M&S food is famous<br />
for its decadence and while Prague’s food hall is actually<br />
more of a food corridor, the traditional M&S café exists in<br />
truly delectable fashion. Fair trade coffee, fresh cakes and<br />
pastries join mammoth sandwiches in the place that truly<br />
does revive. Worth a visit even if you’re not shopping. Q<br />
Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:30 - 19:00.<br />
(60 - 200Kč). P<br />
Café WOW E-2, Praha 1, Kozí 5, MStaroměstská, tel.<br />
222 31 30 91, www.cafewow.cz. Chef Petr Bednář brings<br />
an interesting Mediterranean, Czech, Asian fusion menu to<br />
this now-standard café layout. The diversity of the menu<br />
(wings to fried cheese to homemade pasta, Thai salads,<br />
woks and sandwiches) belies the size of this café cum bar<br />
but is testament to Bednář’s experience in the UK, Finland<br />
and Berlin’s excellent VAU restaurant. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (99 - 350Kč). A<br />
Cafeterapie H-7, Praha 2, Na Hrobci 3, tel. 224 91 60<br />
98, www.cafeterapie.o1.cz. If you are in need of some<br />
healthy, tasty vegetarian offerings after a heavy night or just<br />
for sustenance during a walk along the river, Friendly staff<br />
serves up delicious offerings of salads, sandwiches, Mediterranean<br />
platters, tofu and tempeh, with some good seasonal<br />
specials always on offer. Take tram 3, 7, 16, 17 & 21 to Výtoň.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. BG<br />
Cigars and Coffee I-4, Praha 1, Vodíčkova 39,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 224 94 91 33, www.coffeeandcigars.<br />
cz. Orange theme, white leather, Očko on TVs, cinematic<br />
images of the eponymous objects line this ubercool café<br />
near Cinema Světozor. The expanse of glass leads to perfect<br />
people watching, but the media types inside don’t want to do<br />
the watching. Breakfast, cakes, baguettes, salads, pasta and<br />
even steaks are small and tasty but slightly overpriced (100<br />
- 240Kč). But if you want cool, you’ve got to be wiling to pay<br />
for it. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. W<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Coffee Fellows E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 20,<br />
MStaroměstská. Famous for their pastries, tea, coffee<br />
and syrups. Sandwiches, bagels, cookies etc. all vie for your<br />
attention but try the caramel slice for a taste of heaven<br />
with some toffee mixed in. Seating is high and low, the few<br />
armchairs have their backs to the room and the banquette<br />
seating proves a tad uncomfortable. There is little privacy<br />
too, but it is tasty. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. W<br />
Coffeeheaven E-1, Praha 1, Pařížská 1, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 31 19 67, www.coffeeheaven.cz. While Starbucks<br />
is snoozing in Seattle, a cunning Polish franchise outfit has<br />
sneaked two excellent albeit somewhat faceless cafés into<br />
Prague. The coffee comes in paper cups and ranges from<br />
32Kč for an espresso to 84Kc for the large white chocolate<br />
mocha. The sandwiches, panini and cakes are tasty and reasonably<br />
priced, and there’s a 120Kč breakfast offer. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 21:00. Also at E-4, Praha 1, Na příkopě 3, Palác Flóra<br />
shopping mall and other mall locations. AGPS<br />
Creperie Café Praha 1, Národn, E-4, MNárodní třída.<br />
Not just crepes in this delightfully rustic rambling French<br />
farmhouse kitchen of a café/bar decorated with knick-knacks<br />
galore and tucked in a quiet courtyard. Enjoy boar goulash,<br />
salmon and octopus in addition to a choice of well-sized<br />
and expertly cooked sweet and savoury crepes to an appropriate<br />
soundtrack. Homemade soups are a great winter<br />
warmer. The wine cellar might keep you here longer than<br />
anticipated. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.<br />
(85 - 180Kč). B<br />
DISK Café D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 26, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 221 11 10 65. A superior café on the Royal Way belies its<br />
sleek design by actually being the café for the DISK Theatre,<br />
the place of study for the Czech Academy of Performing Arts<br />
(DAMU). Join wannabe thesps, stage hands and directors<br />
for well-priced (especially when you consider the location)<br />
sandwiches, salads and calorie-laden but superb desserts.<br />
A full bar is of course available too – Staropramen is 40Kč.<br />
QOpen 09:30 - 22:00. (85 - 115Kč).<br />
Ebel E-3, Praha 1, Týn 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222<br />
22 20 18, www.ebelcoffee.cz. Some of the best coffee in<br />
town, sandwiches and salads, plus excellent smoothies and<br />
cheesecake to die for. Wooden warmth inside beckons you in<br />
the winter months, and in the evenings you’ll be serenaded by<br />
some good jazz from Ungelt in the basement. Beware of wandering<br />
stag parties from Legends across the square. Check<br />
out their shop almost next door. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (60<br />
- 160Kč). Also at D-2, Karprová 11, open 07:00 - 20:00; D-3,<br />
Řetězová 9, open 09:00 - 22:00. ABT<br />
Emporio Café F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 19,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 255 74 21 87, www.emporiocafe.cz. The<br />
latest outlet of this chain café inside it is the most grand; two<br />
floors of sleek designer chairs, slowly revolving metal strip<br />
lamps and a whole wall imaginatively decorated with, yes,<br />
broken egg shells. The menu sports everything from salads<br />
to snacks and meals. Service is still somewhat lacking so<br />
make sure you sit well within view of the waiter. DJs spin at<br />
weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200Kč). APS<br />
Andy Studio<br />
Sokolovská 153, Praha 8<br />
tel. 266 314 184, 266 316 484<br />
www.andystudio.cz. Solarium<br />
and café.QOpen 9:00 - 22:00.<br />
Ethno D-3, Praha 1, Husova 10, MStaroměstská, tel.<br />
222 32 79 40, www.ethno.cz. Who knows the voodoo<br />
that they do? Well, we have a pretty good idea. They cast a<br />
spell over the drinks menu, raising the prices as if by magic<br />
and thus keeping the natives at bay. Still, this means that<br />
amongst the smiling, gigantic crocodile benches, they do<br />
offer good value salads and pastas. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.<br />
(65 - 155Kč). AP<br />
Fuzion I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 38, MMůstek, tel. 224<br />
21 51 56, www.fuzion.cz. Breakfast, baguettes, sandwiches,<br />
wraps, delicious smoothies and coffee have eat in<br />
and take out prices. Fuzion is small; a steep spiral staircase<br />
leads to the warm leather and wood seating area. Friendly<br />
and deserving of the word nice. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 19:00. GW<br />
Globe H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 6, MNárodní třída, tel.<br />
224 93 42 03, www.globebookstore.cz. Darker walls<br />
indicate an edgier characterisation to this bastion of expat<br />
life which had become a tad stuffy in its middle age. The<br />
good food, books (new and second-hand) and internet café<br />
remain but now we also have Gambrinus on tap as well as live<br />
music and events spicing things up. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.<br />
(40 - 120Kč). AEU<br />
Grand Café Orient F-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19,<br />
MNáměstí Republiky, tel. 224 22 42 40, www.grandcafeorient.cz.<br />
The first floor of the Cubist House of the Black<br />
Madonna is home to a truly unique Cubist-style café. Even<br />
café-capital Vienna doesn’t have one of these. The simple<br />
menu lists pancakes, sandwiches and some good coffee.<br />
Try to get a seat on the balcony overlooking Celetná street.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AP<br />
Grand Café Praha E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 22,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 221 63 25 20, www.grandcafe.<br />
cz. The Grand Café produces cakes, tortes and other sweet<br />
delicacies for clock-watchers on Old Town Square and for<br />
visiting dignitaries at the castle. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.<br />
(95 - 490Kč). A<br />
NoD F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224<br />
82 63 30, www.roxy.cz/nod. Fabulous experimental space<br />
with funky furniture, an art gallery, music, film and four terminals<br />
of free internet.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (25 - 65Kč). W<br />
Nordica I-3, Praha 1, Zlatnická 10, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 222 32 39 00, www.scandinavianhouse.cz. The<br />
clean-cut, well-lit café in the Scandinavian House is a mellow<br />
place for some herring and vodka. Nordica provides more than<br />
that though, with breakfast, toasties, salads and sandwiches<br />
providing a well-priced snack menu. Readings, live music and<br />
art events occur here occasionally. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00,<br />
Sun 09:30 - 18:00. (42 - 130Kč). A<br />
Shabu H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 11, MMůstek, tel. 603<br />
84 75 34. Tiny and crouched down a passage, Café Shabu is<br />
a wooden, welcoming and laid-back. Sandwiches and salads<br />
are good, fruit juices and smoothies abound, as do relaxed<br />
patrons. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 150Kč). B<br />
Slavia C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 1, MNárodní třída,<br />
tel. 224 21 84 93. Slavia has a beautiful art deco interior<br />
and photos of celebrity patrons. Its location can’t be beaten,<br />
with large windows open to Národní Divadlo and the Vltava.<br />
Service is fine, but you can sit here for quite a while without<br />
purchasing much from the very well-priced menu. Good coffee,<br />
tasty meals, snacks and pastries are all available. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 24:00. (45 - 320Kč). APU<br />
CAFÉS IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
Velryba H-5, Praha 1, Opatovická 24, MNárodní třída,<br />
tel. 224 93 23 91. Packed and popular, The Whale has delicious<br />
aromas wafting from the kitchen into the main seating<br />
and eating area out front. Vegetarians will delight in the extent<br />
of options available here and waiting diners of all proclivities<br />
are often out of luck as people tend to linger. Go down the<br />
hall and emerge into a sofa-laden café for less upstanding<br />
evenings. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 200Kč).<br />
NEW<br />
Yessi Café I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 222 21 25 85, www.yessicafe.cz. From the makers of<br />
Pravda, Hot and Bellevue comes a casual café for the masses.<br />
Purple and green dominate the upholstered sofas and stools.<br />
Smoothies and juices are sadly pre-made, sandwiches too for<br />
the lunch rush but you can also build your own. Italian water<br />
ups the price, but the veggie and hummos sandwich (99Kč)<br />
is superb. Alcohol and Illy coffee also served. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. PBS<br />
Tea houses<br />
Dobrá čajovna E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 14,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 224 23 14 80, www.cajovna.com. A<br />
purple-robed Buddha watches over the garden to ensure<br />
outer peace amongst the youthful customers whilst inside<br />
the place is naturally full of candles, crockery and joss sticks,<br />
for sale too. The largest tea selection we’ve seen and some<br />
of the highest prices too. Colonial echoes with the ring-thebell-for<br />
-ervice ethos. QOpen 12:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 15:00<br />
- 21:30. BG<br />
Růžová čajovna F-4, Praha 1, Růžová 8, MMůstek,<br />
tel. 222 24 58 94, www.pangea-tea.cz. Enjoy a cuppa<br />
in the bright natural wood filled tea room and then buy supplies,<br />
including the crockery, to make it yourself. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10.00 - 22:00, Sat 11:30 - 22:00, Sun<br />
11:30 - 21:00. G<br />
U Dvou šálků J-5, Praha 2, Blanická 8, MNám. Míru,<br />
tel. 222 51 52 22, www.cajiky.cz. One of the best tea<br />
rooms around although the fact that it is so busy means it<br />
can take a while to get served. Small eastern inspired food<br />
menu and vast tea selection. Play games, chat and lounge.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 14:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 14:00 - 22:00. Also at U Kostela, J-1, Praha 7, Strossmayerovo<br />
náměstí 9, tel. 266 71 14 30.<br />
April - May 2007<br />
47
48 NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
This chapter only reviews our selection of nightlife venues<br />
in the Old and New Town, the well-touristed area between<br />
the river and Wilsonova road. Prices are higher in the Old<br />
Town as a rule but that doesn’t stop the party people.<br />
For nightlife in Malá Strana, Vinohrady & Žižkov, Letná &<br />
Holešovice and Smíchov turn to pages 58 - 70.<br />
Bars<br />
Atmosphere C-3, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábřeží 14,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 22 21 14. Cool spot with<br />
courtyard terrace, foosball table and excellently functional and<br />
filling food. With posters extolling bongs, skateboarding and<br />
the fact that beer has been helping ugly people have sex for<br />
years, this is not a sophisticated night out. It is appropriately<br />
atmospheric though and has an extensive and cheap food<br />
menu. One of the best aspects is Hoegaarden for just 30Kč<br />
oh, so close to the river. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B<br />
Bar and Books F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 19, MNám.<br />
Republiky, tel. 224 80 82 50, www.barandbooks.net.<br />
Deep red walls and ceilings, leather benches, dark wood<br />
finishing, books filling one complete wall and impeccable<br />
service typify Bar & Books. Cocktails vie with an astounding<br />
array of whiskey, wine and cigars in this classy setting with<br />
cool tunes and Bond on TV. Salmon and club sandwiches,<br />
caviar and chocolate fondue are on the small but inspired<br />
menu. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun<br />
18:00 - 03:00. AP<br />
Barock H-3, Praha 1, Pařížská 24, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 32 92 21. Not a rock bar at all. Swing with the<br />
smart set in this flash and polished bar/restaurant with<br />
huge windows and chandeliers - all the better to see the<br />
beautiful models sipping and sashaying. The aprons will<br />
come buzzing around you to offer expertly crafted drinks,<br />
succulent sushi, and a reassuringly expensive bill. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 01:00. APU<br />
Bombay Cocktail Bar E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 13,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 721 882 557, www.rasoi.cz.<br />
One of the city’s best late night hot spots, Bombay seldom<br />
disappoints with a wide range of cocktails, DJs who actually<br />
play what the crowd wants to hear and a diverse clientele in<br />
the right frame of mind to have fun. Enough said. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 04:00. ABP<br />
Bugsy’s E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 10, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 224 81 02 87, www.bugsysbar.cz. Bugsy’s has been<br />
around for a fair while now, but it has managed to keep the<br />
‘it’ that means it is a place to go if you wanted everyone who<br />
has ‘it’ to think that you have ‘it’ too. A trendy and hip crowd<br />
guaranteed then, as is a menu featuring plenty of decent<br />
cocktails. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. AEP<br />
Cabestro D-4, Praha 1, Spálená 47, MNárodní třída.<br />
Although in its infancy, canny owners are already sounding<br />
out excellent DJs and even some live music, the location will<br />
attract the punters and the real party will begin. Follow the<br />
bare corridor into Cabestro.QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. E<br />
De Brug F-2, Praha 1, Masná 5, MNám. Republiky, tel.<br />
224 81 92 83. Not quite an authentic Amsterdam bar – for<br />
obvious reasons, but it is Dutch owned and operated and<br />
they serve traditional finger food. English breakfast and the<br />
usual bar staples of burgers and Mexican bites accompany<br />
38Kč Staropramen, DJ at weekends and the varied set of<br />
locals and tourist that wander into this dark, wooden nook.<br />
Quiet early, but then it can and often does kick off. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 02:00. KW<br />
Bugsy’s E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská<br />
10, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81<br />
02 87, www.bugsysbar.cz. Bugsy’s<br />
has been around for a fair while now,<br />
but it has managed to keep the ‘it’<br />
that means it is a place to go if you wanted everyone who<br />
has ‘it’ to think that you have ‘it’ too. A trendy and hip crowd<br />
guaranteed then, as is a menu featuring plenty of decent<br />
cocktails. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. AEP<br />
Duende C-3, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 30,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 604 26 97 31, www.duende.cz.<br />
A small split-level bar containing casually sophisticated folks<br />
who sip and do not gulp their drinks. The odd snack occasionally<br />
makes an appearance to liven things up. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. G<br />
Fat Boy’s F-3, Praha 1, Malá Štupartská 5/636,<br />
MNám. Republiky, www.fatboys.cz. Not a full English<br />
breakfast in sight, but they did stay open all night for the<br />
Ashes... A small bar with good staff and quieter than most in<br />
the area has just begun live music nights. With only darker<br />
granát and Stella beers on offer, even the spill off from Chateau<br />
don’t always linger, but it is usually riff-raff free. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 02:00.<br />
Gecko H-5, Praha 1, Mikulandská 2, MNárodní třída, tel.<br />
776 11 72 93. Gecko could be mistaken for a chameleon as it<br />
appears to be a fine place for a quiet drink then suddenly you’re<br />
having a crazy time in what was the smallest bar in Prague. A<br />
kitchen (good, cheap eats) and small music club downstairs<br />
plus more tables have almost quadrupled the bar space. The<br />
fun factor has not been diluted. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00.<br />
Harley’s E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 18, tel. 227 19 51 95,<br />
www.harleys.cz. Interesting mix of bikers, locals and tourists,<br />
this long, long bar has emerged on the scene not just<br />
because of their large US style food, well mixed drinks or Wild<br />
Cats (shot shifting girls) but due to the presence of two of<br />
Dusk till Dawn’s barmen. Check it out. Shots around 60Kč and<br />
Jack 80Kč. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. (120 - 350Kč). A<br />
Chateau Rouge F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 2, MNám.<br />
Republiky, tel. 222 31 63 28, www.chateaurouge.cz. A<br />
local legend. This large, dark red bar continues to be the place<br />
to head for to indulge a multitude of vices. A deeper and darker<br />
cellar room kicks in later in the evening as a DJ and dance<br />
venue, thus giving dedicated nocturnalists another central<br />
venue to frequent. Early on it provides a quiet alternative for<br />
a bit of chilling. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. AE<br />
Kozička E-2, Praha 1, Kozí 1, MStaroměstská, tel.<br />
224 81 83 08, www.kozicka.cz. Tagged out front by the<br />
sculpture of an iron goat, Kozička is entered via heavy red<br />
curtains, down the stairs and into the labyrinthine set of<br />
rooms. Good food adds to the late night party vibe and this<br />
is one of the kitchens that’ll feed us late into the Prague night<br />
- till 01:45 in fact. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00,<br />
Sun 18:00 - 03:00. AIP<br />
K.U.Bar.Cafe E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 13, MMůstek,<br />
tel. 221 18 10 81. There’s a fine line between trendy and<br />
pretentious and this bar from the Café-Café company and<br />
the people in it tips to the side of plastic pretence. If you<br />
are trendy, cool, beautiful, wear the right labels and want to<br />
hang out with like-minded folk, head on down for higher than<br />
average prices, DJ tunes and small bar menu. QOpen 17:00<br />
- 03:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 04:00.<br />
NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
PAŘÍŽSKÁ 10<br />
<strong>PRAGUE</strong> 1<br />
DAILY 7 p.m. - 2 a.m.<br />
Recognized by Newsweek<br />
International as one of the<br />
World‘s Best Bars<br />
„The most popular bar in the<br />
Czech Republic“<br />
Playboy Award 2003<br />
Partner in the OK PLUS<br />
AirRestaurant program<br />
Phone: +420 - 224 810 827<br />
Email: bar@bugsysbar.cz<br />
www.bugsysbar.cz<br />
For the twelfth year<br />
now Bugsy‘s Bar has<br />
been a living Czech<br />
bartending legend.<br />
It‘s wide selection of<br />
perfectly created<br />
Martinis served in<br />
chilled cocktail<br />
glasses and a wide<br />
range of<br />
Champagnes,<br />
Whiskies, Rums &<br />
Cigars prove it‘s<br />
position in the world.<br />
April - May 2007<br />
49
free reservations line +420 800-1-52672<br />
Watch Out!<br />
So fresh it grabs you<br />
Our French chef, Jerome Lorieux, guarantees daily fresh seafood<br />
in the heart of Prague. Seafood platters from 25 Euro!<br />
Štupartská 9, Praha 1- Staré Město, tel.: +420 296 826 155, www.laprovence.cz<br />
free reservations line +420 800-1-52672
52<br />
NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
La Casa Blů E-1, Praha 1, Kozí 15, MStaroměstská, tel.<br />
224 81 82 70, www.lacasablu.cz. A pleasing and soothing<br />
spirit pervades the darkened corners, which are perfect,<br />
when a little recuperation is needed, for sprawling in but at<br />
the same time you can perch at the bar and find yourself in the<br />
midst of a mini Mardi Gras. Ay caramba the food is great too.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. EK6W<br />
Ocean Drive E-2, Praha 1, V Kolkovně 7, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 224 81 90 89, www.tretters.cz. Basically created for<br />
the overspill from sister establishment Tretters, with the same<br />
calibre of clientele and maestro barkeeps. Join porn stars,<br />
pop stars, suited Czechs and foreigners plus their cohorts for<br />
some superlative cocktails at appropriately high prices. You<br />
might have to wait at the door if they don’t know your face.<br />
QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. AP<br />
Rincón C-3, Praha 1, Na Zábradlí 1, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 22 21 73. Splendidly located along the Vltava with<br />
large windows to catch the evening sun. The menu reflects<br />
the Charles Bridge location with bacon sandwiches and fish<br />
and chips enticing the tourists. Split levels inside give some<br />
privacy, and evenings see a crowd descend, especially when<br />
drink specials are on. Strangely, the logo is a peeing dog.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (60 - 220Kč). ABPS<br />
Tretters E-2, Praha 1, V Kolkovně 3, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 224 81 11 65, www.tretters.cz. The bar certainly<br />
seems sure of its leading role here, swallowing up so much of<br />
the space that it leaves little room for customers. And rightly<br />
so. Committed barmen can rattle up some seriously decent<br />
cocktails and they serve the best Bloody Marys in town.<br />
Wear a suit or the staff will probably sneer at you. QOpen<br />
19:00 - 03:00. AP<br />
Pubs<br />
Caffrey’s E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 10,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 82 80 31, www.caffreys.<br />
cz. Good service and a great location on Staromětské nám.<br />
make this a popular Irish pub for many, including large parties<br />
of stag nighters. Old Town prices are justified by their excellent<br />
food menu (try the authentic Irish breakfast), first rate<br />
Guinness, Bulmer’s cider, Walker’s crisps and more to make<br />
you feel right at home. A good venue to watch all the major<br />
(GAA too) sporting events. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00<br />
- 02:00. ABKP<br />
George & Dragon E-2, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 11,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 61 37. A British pub landed<br />
slap bang in the middle of Old Town Square. TV screens, a big<br />
screen and footy shirts line the walls so it won’t remind you of<br />
the country outside. Good food, including an all day breakfast<br />
with the atmosphere you want to see your team play and win,<br />
with any luck. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. ABK<br />
Jáma D-4, Praha 1, V jámě 7, MMůstek, tel. 224 22 23<br />
83, www.jamapub.cz. The Hollow’s worn wooden seats<br />
are home to expats and locals alike, who frequent this bar<br />
for its burgers, BLTs and Tex-Mex as well as the cheap local<br />
specials and beer. Bring your laptop for free wi-fi. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 01:00. ABGKTW<br />
Molly Malone’s E-2, Praha 1, U Obecního dvora 4,<br />
MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 81 88 51, www.mollymalones.cz.<br />
A quiet, nicely downbeat Irish pub. Odds and ends of<br />
bashed about furniture clutter the scrubbed wooden floors<br />
making it a perfect oasis for fairly well-heeled slumming. Take<br />
your time contemplating the excellent menu over some cider<br />
or a Guinness. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. AKPU<br />
O’Che’s D-3, Praha 1, Liliová 14, MStaroměstská, tel.<br />
222 22 11 78, www.oches.com. Just what you’d expect<br />
an Irish Cuban bar to be. Likenesses of everybody’s favourite<br />
failed revolutionary stare off into space amid a dartboard, TVs,<br />
Guinness ads and football paraphernalia. Yuca con mojo may<br />
be hard to find, but good food, excellent barstaff and all round<br />
fun is readily available. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. KP<br />
Rocky O’Reilly’s I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 32,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 222 23 10 60, www.rockyoreillys.cz.<br />
Photos of prestigious poets and pubs, Guinness on draught<br />
and an ‘O’ in its name all meet the criteria for a classic Irish<br />
watering hole. Other perks include hearty portions of international<br />
food including a huge Irish breakfast served anytime,<br />
Sky Sports broadcast on several TVs and wait staff that can<br />
easily draw your attention away from the football. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 01:00. AKP<br />
The Beer Factory I-5, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 58,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 736 63 08 68. Down see-through steps<br />
is this industrial-looking and functional, as the name suggests,<br />
beer factory. Well located and easily locatable by the<br />
square’s landmark statue, this beer hall’s cavernous space<br />
should be packed daily – just look at those opening hours.<br />
Taps at your table serve Pilsner Urquell (at 39Kč) while mix<br />
drinks, coffee and hearty Czech dishes are served up by the<br />
staff. TVs offer music and sport. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00.<br />
(150 - 350Kč). KP<br />
Tlustá koala F-3, Praha 1, Senovážná 1394/8, MNám.<br />
Republiky, tel. 222 24 54 01. The Fat Koala boasts (if<br />
that’s the word) Foster’s lager, but everything else is more<br />
international than Aussie. With 11 beers on tap and more<br />
in bottles, this place is a dream and prices (Staropramen<br />
31Kč) are not that high considering its location. Two floors<br />
of pub ambience and private rooms keep people lingering<br />
long after the hearty meals have been sufficiently washed<br />
down. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. (100<br />
- 800Kč). AKP<br />
U Zlatého tygra D-3, Praha 1, Husova 17,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 22 11 11. Havel took Bill<br />
Clinton here to demonstrate Czech drinking culture (and let’s<br />
face it, if there’s one thing Havel knows, it’s his booze). Get<br />
there by opening time to have any chance of getting in. The<br />
Pilsner brewery makes special deliveries here - the beer is<br />
pumped directly into the large tanks below the bar. A national<br />
institution. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00. K<br />
Sport bars<br />
Jágr’s Sport Bar F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 56,<br />
MMuzeum, tel. 224 03 24 81, www.jagrsportbar.cz. The<br />
renowned owner, Jaromír Jágr, number 68 himself, is a great<br />
ambassador for Czech ice-hockey in the United States. Back<br />
in Prague meanwhile, he entrusts a variety of countrymen to<br />
pour beer and turn on dozens of TVs for loud and raucous<br />
cheering. Reservations for big game nights are a must. Excellent<br />
screens and fairly priced beer. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
(100 - 350Kč). AKP<br />
Legends F-2, Praha 1, Týn 1, MStaroměstská, tel. 224<br />
89 54 04, www.legends.cz. Twenty, count ‘em, twenty TVs<br />
plus two plasma screens and a private room for your viewing<br />
pleasure in this bastion of expat sport bars. An excellent menu<br />
features great burgers and the ever-popular hangover-busting<br />
breakfast. Descend into this sleek cellar for a maul to rival that<br />
on the screens on any given Saturday, Wednesday, Sunday...<br />
Popular with visiting celebs too. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (100<br />
- 400Kč). AEK<br />
NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
April - May 2007<br />
53
54<br />
NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
The Pack I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 21, MMuzeum,<br />
tel. 222 21 02 80, www.thepack.cz. Tailor made for its<br />
fans with scantily clad waitresses, flat screen TVs in every<br />
room, Guinness and Strongbow (90/85Kč) on tap, and full<br />
English breakfast. A higher class of pub food is also available<br />
from wings (150Kč) and burgers (250Kč) to the massive<br />
double filet mignon (950Kč).Q Open Mon & Fri 09:00 - 02:00;<br />
Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00; Sat, Sun 06:30 - 02:00. AJK<br />
Three Lions I-5, Praha 1, Krakovská 19, MMuzeum,<br />
tel. 222 21 09 56, www.threelionsprague.com. Huge<br />
with 15 plasma screens and 2 big screens in the cellar. Their<br />
capacity is 420, plus a summer terrace and their menu of<br />
trad favourites such as full breakfast and Sunday roast should<br />
entice the punters. Newcastle Brown, Fosters, Strongbow and<br />
Guinness on tap (95Kč) and Krusovice (60Kč). QOpen 11:00<br />
- 01:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. (200 - 350Kč). A<br />
Venue 73 I-1, Praha 7, Veletržní 73, MVltavská, tel. 728<br />
13 99 03, www.venue73.cz. A venue in the making, but it<br />
looks to be great. In addition to two (real) dart boards, 7 TVs<br />
and one big screen, semi-private booths in the VIP room with<br />
individual screens, English bacon, sausages (full breakfast from<br />
99Kč), Colman’s mustard and Branston pickle, and authentic<br />
Indian dishes. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (30 - 200Kč).<br />
Zlatá hvězda I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 12,<br />
MMuzeum, tel. 296 22 22 92, www.sportbar.cz. This<br />
dedicated sports bar remains open until the final whistle<br />
blows. Appropriately buxom servers deliver 21Kč Gambrinus,<br />
pizza and wings etc. around the TV-filled room. Reservations<br />
necessary. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Mon 11:00 - 24:00,<br />
Fri 11:00 - 04:30, Sat 12:00 - 04:30, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
ABEIPU<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Jazz clubs<br />
AghaRTA Jazz Centrum E-3, Praha 1, Železná 16,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 222 21 12 75, info@agharta.cz, www.<br />
agharta.cz. This beautiful arched medieval cellar is the perfect<br />
place to appreciate some of the very fine bands on the<br />
Prague jazz circuit, cut with the odd night of heavy blues. Arrive<br />
early to claim a seat at a table. There’s a jazz shop, where<br />
they sell CDs including their own compilations of visiting talent.<br />
QOpen 18:00 - 24:30. Concerts daily at 21:00. Admission<br />
200Kč. Reservations via email only before 15:00. E<br />
Blues Sklep D-3, Praha 1, Lilliová 10, MNárodní třída, tel.<br />
774 27 70 60, www.bluessklep.cz. A varied roster of blues, jazz<br />
plus some deep funk stalwarts of and newcomers to the scene<br />
play nightly. Ferdinand waters the thirsty crowd for 25Kč. Admission<br />
100Kč. Concerts begin at 21:00. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.<br />
Jazz Boat D-1, Praha 1, Čechův most, Kotva boat,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 603 55 16 80, www.jazzboat.cz. Take a<br />
musical journey on the low seas of the Vltava. The Jazz Boat sets sail<br />
each evening from Čechův most and for only 590Kč you’re afforded a<br />
two and a half hour cruise around Prague to the accompaniment of<br />
excellent jazz performed by some of the city’s finest musicians. A bar<br />
and restaurant are also at your disposal, but their services are not<br />
included in the bill.QOpen 20:30 - 23:00. AEGBK<br />
Reduta D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní třída, tel.<br />
224 93 34 87, www.redutajazzclub.cz. Reduta has not<br />
changed much since 1958; you don’t come for the brown<br />
interior or the uncomfortable bench seating; Reduta still brings<br />
in quality performers and even attracts a president or two.<br />
Václav Havel has brought Bill Clinton here twice now, and yes,<br />
he did play his sax. QOpen 21:00 - 24:00. EP<br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />
Casinos<br />
There are lots of places in which you can lose your<br />
shirt - just make sure it’s a smart shirt or you won’t<br />
even get in in the first place! All of these places will<br />
gladly receive your cash in Czech crowns or US dollars<br />
and give you free booze with which to drown your<br />
sorrows. You’ll need to be over 18, well-dressed and in<br />
posession of ID to play.<br />
Ambassador Casino E-4, Václavské nám. 5,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 224 19 36 81, www.vipclub.cz. Poker,<br />
roulette, blackjack, pontoon and slots attract a sophisticated<br />
crowd with the casino’s excellent, knowledgeable staff,<br />
and appropriate atmosphere. Q Open 24hrs. AK<br />
Casino Monaco Praha 4, Kongresová 1,<br />
MVyšehrad, tel. 261 19 11 70, www.vipclub.cz.<br />
The Corinthia Towers Hotel hosts another of the VIP<br />
casinos (see also the Panorama and Ambassador), with<br />
their trademark talented croupiers, usual games and good<br />
times. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. AL<br />
Casino Panorama Praha 4, Milevská 7, MPankrác,<br />
tel. 261 16 40 61, www.vipclub.cz. The Corinthia<br />
Panorama Hotel hosts another winning casino from the VIP<br />
group. The usual games and slot machines are on offer, with<br />
drinks and refreshments. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. AL<br />
See advertisement on p. 53<br />
Banco Casino F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 27, MNám.<br />
Republiky, tel. 221 96 73 80, www.bancocasino.cz. One<br />
of Prague’s favourite casinos, set in a central location difficult to<br />
beat. All your favourite games are available, there are state of<br />
the art slot machines, a private salon and a general atmosphere<br />
of unadulterated luxury that entices even James Bond: it was<br />
used in Casino Royale... Q Open 24 hours. A<br />
Bohemia Praha 4, 5. května 65 (Congress Centre),<br />
MVyšehrad, tel. 241 41 25 87. Prague’s first casino.<br />
With slot machines, poker, Blackjack and the usual suspects<br />
both on and off the tables, Bohemia is as good a<br />
place as ever to gamble your crowns away. Smart dress<br />
and ID required. QOpen 17:00 - 05:00. AKL<br />
Casino de Prague Le Hilton J-2, Praha 8, Pobřežní<br />
1 (Hotel Hilton), MFlorenc, tel. 224 81 09 88. One<br />
of the favoured casinos for Prague expats, the Hilton provides<br />
roulette, poker, blackjack, pontoon, Punto Banco,<br />
and slots with the worldwide standards of the Hilton chain.<br />
QOpen 14:00 - 06:00. A<br />
Casino Duplex E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 224 49 04 30, www.casinoduplex.cz. One<br />
of the few places for poker, in its various forms, to be played. Live<br />
games here from 20:00 - 06:00.Q Open 24hrs. AK<br />
Casino Palais Savarin F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 224 22 16 36, www.czechcasinos.<br />
cz. The home of Prague entertainment for over 10 years,<br />
come try your hand at Poker, American Roulette, Black<br />
Jack and more. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. A<br />
NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
Na Příkopě 10, Praha 1<br />
Open daily from 4 p.m.<br />
♦<br />
American/Touch Bet<br />
Roulettes ● Black Jack<br />
Pontoon ● Poker<br />
SLOT ROOM<br />
TRY YOUR LUCK!<br />
♦<br />
Free entry<br />
Photo ID required<br />
No dress code<br />
♦<br />
Tel.: +420 224 221 636<br />
www.czechcasinos.cz<br />
April - May 2007<br />
55
56<br />
NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN<br />
Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club E-2, Praha 1, Týnská ulička<br />
2, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 89 57 48, www.jazzblues.<br />
cz. Wander to the pub upstairs, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised<br />
by the cheerful atmosphere and cheap drinks. Go down<br />
the stairs and you descend into the more expected territory<br />
of clinging onto your cash for dear life, though it does host<br />
some good bluesy jazz. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00; club open<br />
20:00 - 02:00. Admission free.<br />
U Staré paní H-4, Praha 1, Michalská 9, MMůstek,<br />
tel. 603 55 16 80, www.jazzlounge.cz. An elevated<br />
stage, a fancy Petrov grand piano and a regular schedule<br />
of quality, contemporary jazz make U Staré paní a favourite<br />
venue for Prague’s serious jazz aficionado, local, expatriate<br />
and tourist alike. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. AEGP<br />
Clubs<br />
Batalion E-4, Praha 1, 28. října 3, MMůstek, tel. 220 10<br />
81 47, www.batalion.cz. The live music venue which goes<br />
on all night providing music, rock videos, drinking, internet,<br />
dancing, foosball, and copious amounts of drunken debauchery.<br />
This is the place to go when all others close. Downstairs<br />
offers a more intimate milieu. Q Open 24hrs. E<br />
Lucerna Music Bar I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 224 21 71 08, www.musicbar.cz. The<br />
more popular local bands and the smaller international groups<br />
ply their trade here fairly regularly. Every Saturday you can find<br />
an un-hip, unpretentious crowd cavorting at their disarmingly<br />
popular 1980s night, which has led to the doors being closed<br />
because of sheer numbers. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. Admission<br />
50 - 150Kč. EP<br />
M1 E-2, Praha 1, Masná 1, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 87<br />
42 56. Grey and industrial looking, this railroad car of a bar<br />
is an ideal place to lounge around. Swamped barmen deftly<br />
pour drinks in front of the glow of illuminated spirits on the wall.<br />
New owners have shifted the scene some at Prague’s M1,<br />
with nightly themes from the increasingly popular Sunday chill<br />
out sessions to ladies’ night and DJ Big J’s Smokin’ Fridays.<br />
QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A<br />
Rock Café D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní<br />
třída, tel. 224 93 39 47, www.rockcafe.cz. The front<br />
bar remains the same, but inside, all has changed. The<br />
main stage has been moved down a level, meaning that<br />
this always great venue has effectively removed the 22:00<br />
live curfew so many clubs here are curtailed by. Three bars<br />
and a funky, boxy lounge with cool mural graffiti and screen<br />
to watch the band well away from the mosh pit make Rock<br />
Café the suave new place for live music. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 03:00, Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Admission<br />
50 - 100Kč. EW<br />
Roxy E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám. Republiky, tel.<br />
224 82 62 96, www.roxy.cz. Probably the best club in<br />
Prague, years of kudos keep the place hopping despite some<br />
sound issues. Live acts and DJs plus the divinely eclectic Free<br />
Mondays. Q Box office open 16:00. Club open for concerts<br />
19:00, for club nights 22:00. EP<br />
Sixth Sense E-2, Praha 1, Dušní 3, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 777 57 72 99, www.sixsense.cz. White leather seats,<br />
long bar, dark corners for assignations and space enough<br />
for large groups make Sixth Sense a classy addition to Old<br />
Town choices, especially with the well laid out music club<br />
downstairs and cool bar staff. However, on the downside are<br />
the cheesy Europop tunes and somewhat syrupy cocktails.<br />
QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. P<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Casinos, part II<br />
Casino President E-1, Praha 1, Nám. Curieových<br />
100 (President Hotel), MStaromětská, tel. 234 61<br />
41 13, www.casinopresident.cz. Roulette, black jack,<br />
poker, pontoon and slots available at this luxurious new<br />
casino. Minimum bets are 100Kč for black jack, et al.<br />
and 25Kč on roulette. Free soft drinks while you gamble.<br />
QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A<br />
Century Casino Millennium I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici<br />
10, MNám. Republiky, tel. 221 03 34 01, www.millenniumcasino.cz.<br />
Catering to the likes of the Marriott<br />
Hotel, the Century Casino in the Millennium Plaza boasts<br />
excellent croupiers who will help out beginners and take<br />
anyone’s money. The usual roulette, poker and blackjack<br />
are available. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. AL<br />
Spearmint Casino D-1, Praha 1, U Plovárny 8, tel.<br />
257 535 755, www.spearmintcasino.cz. Come to<br />
the only English-style casino in Prague. Spearmint has<br />
the highest limits available in the city. Try your luck at<br />
roulette, pontoon, blackjack and poker or play in the<br />
private gaming room. If mechanics are more your thing,<br />
head for the new slot machines upstairs. Free transport<br />
to the casino is also available. Admission is free. QOpen<br />
16:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue 17:00 - 05:00. A<br />
Studio 54 J-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 38, www.studio54.<br />
cz. Where the crowds go for the after party, things often don’t<br />
kick off here till well into the morning, so be cool and arrive<br />
fashionably late. Don’t forget your sunglasses. QOpen 05:00<br />
- 15:00. Admission 100Kč.<br />
Vagon D-4, Praha 1, Národní 25, MNárodní třída, tel.<br />
221 08 55 99, www.vagon.cz. Vagon was a dancing hall<br />
during communist times so if your parents are too old to<br />
boogie here come yourself and check out the dedication to<br />
the artwork, if not exactly the spirit, of the decadent 1960s.<br />
An excellent live venue renowned for quality cover bands,<br />
local and international acts plus an open mic night on select<br />
Mondays. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. E<br />
Vertigo E-4, Praha 1, Havelská 4, MMůstek, tel. 774<br />
74 42 56, www.vertigo-club.cz. Whether by design or by<br />
accident, this club does indeed spin the mind… split levels<br />
and balconies loiter under low ceilings while some of the<br />
weirdest video footage ever accompanies the tracks to create<br />
a space that lures your mind and your feet. Excellent DJs<br />
and unusual theme nights attract a disparate group of folk.<br />
Q Club: Thu - Sat 21:00 - 04:00; café: 08:00 - 21:00 except<br />
club nights open to 04:00. Admission free. P<br />
Zero E-2, Praha 1, Dušní 8, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 84<br />
97, www.myspace.com/zeroprague. Classy joint in town with<br />
long bar, private room at the rear and limited booth seating in order<br />
to keep those feet tapping. The music scene in Zero has settled into<br />
some of the deadliest beats in the city, with local names attracting<br />
loyal hipsters to their nights – check out the new Minimal Sunday<br />
sessions as well as any other day. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. P<br />
Zlatý strom D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 6, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 22 04 41, www.zlatystrom.cz. Famous throughout<br />
the city for, well, being a disco and having a dance floor<br />
straight out of Saturday Night Fever. Down in an historical<br />
basement, the large dancefloor is usually full - except when<br />
the strip shows start. The restaurant serves 24 hours a day.<br />
QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission 100Kč. AKP<br />
Late eats<br />
It’s nearing the witching hour, and the liquid dinner is just<br />
not cutting it anymore. You need some food in your stomach,<br />
but (apart from the 24hr kiosks on Václavské nám.)<br />
where can you go to eat at this time of night? Right here...<br />
Bandol F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MStaroměstská, tel.<br />
222 32 15 21, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. Bandol offers<br />
a good selection of local and European wines as well as a<br />
full menu of international dishes from the restaurant on the<br />
ground floor which serves until 01:30. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.<br />
(100 - 400Kc). AP<br />
Kozička E-2, Praha 1, Kozí 1, MStaroměstská, tel. 224<br />
81 83 08, www.kozicka.cz. A labyrinthine set of rooms,<br />
where good food adds to the late night party vibe and this is<br />
one of the kitchens that’ll feed us late into the Prague night,<br />
until 01:45 in fact. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00,<br />
Sun 18:00 - 03:00. (90 - 400Kč). AKP<br />
Picante Fresh-Mex F-2, Praha 1, Revoluční 4, MNám.<br />
Republiky, tel. 222 32 20 22, www.picante.cz. What<br />
was the freshest Mexican in town has raised prices and now<br />
charges for the salsa, jalapeno and other extras waiting to be<br />
ladled onto your flautus, burrito or taco. But it does remain<br />
fast and 24hr - but on weekends only now. Q Open 10:00<br />
- 23:00, Thu - Sat 24hrs. (30 - 200Kč). S<br />
Solidní nejistota H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 21,<br />
MNárodní třída, tel. 224 93 30 86, www.solidninejistota.cz.<br />
A meat market in more ways than one. The girls<br />
and guys do their thing round the large bar and small dance<br />
floor while the kitchen does its thing until 05:00. QOpen<br />
19:00 - 06:00. (110 - 350Kč). AKP<br />
LATE EATS<br />
Trilobit H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 715/15, MMůstek, tel.<br />
224 94 60 65. Cellar bar with Czech and international dishes<br />
as well as a few vegetarian options. It’s a good place to sneak<br />
in a drink in relative anonymity, or grab a late meal. Kitchen<br />
closes at 01:30, except Sun 23:30. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250Kč). AKP<br />
U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23,<br />
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen.<br />
cz. Good Czech-Mex standards jostle for space with salads,<br />
sandwiches and hot pitas. Kitchen closes at 24:00 and 01:00<br />
at weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. (50 - 300Kc). E<br />
U Sadu K-5, Praha 3, Škroupovo nám., MJiřího z<br />
Poděbrad, tel. 222 72 70 72. U Sadu is a local legend<br />
for many things, including the fact they serve beer till dawn<br />
and food till 04:00. Love it. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. (60<br />
- 300Kč). K<br />
Vysmátý zajíc E-3, Praha 1, Michalská 13,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 21 69 99, www.vysmaty-zajic.cz.<br />
Part Czech pub, music club, restaurant<br />
and internet café, where you can work up a hunger and<br />
enjoy their menu until 05:00. A decent deal for its Old<br />
Town location. QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. (100 - 250Kč).<br />
AKPU<br />
Zlatý strom D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 6, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 22 04 41, www.zlatystrom.cz. Home to a hotel<br />
and a music club (itself home to a dancefloor straight<br />
out of Saturday Night Fever). The restaurant’s kitchen is<br />
nonstop, serving up salads, pizza, pasta and the usual<br />
international and Czech standards. Q Open 24 hrs. (100<br />
- 350Kč). AKP<br />
April - May 2007<br />
57
58 FOOD & DRINK AROUND <strong>PRAGUE</strong><br />
Prague is comprised of lively neighbourhoods which can<br />
be as fun and diverting to dine and party in as the Old<br />
Town, and cheaper. The area-based listings enable a night<br />
of dining and drinking with venues that are within walking<br />
distance.<br />
Malá Strana and the castle area are more upmarket than<br />
the Old Town; east of the Old Town lie two excellent residential<br />
districts; Vinohrady, with plenty of trendy venues<br />
and grungy Žižkov, which is for the adventurous. North<br />
of the Old Town, Letná & Holešovice have some gems.<br />
Finally Smíchov, south of Malá Strana, is an upcoming<br />
area for restaurants, bars and clubs.<br />
Malá Strana & The Castle<br />
Gastronomically, Malá Strana (A/B-2/3) and the area<br />
around the castle is a sprucer version of Old Town, with<br />
many upmarket and tourist restaurants, plus great bars<br />
and jazz clubs, but not many clubs. To get there, walk<br />
across Charles Bridge, take the metro to Malostranská or<br />
hop on trams N°18, 22 or 23. Crawl onto night tram N°57<br />
to get back to the Old Town.<br />
American<br />
Cowboys Steaks & Cocktails A-1, Praha 1, Nerudova<br />
40, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 50 50, www.kampagroup.com.<br />
Bazaar has morphed into the Kampa Group’s<br />
sublime version of an American steakhouse. Premium-tequila-laden<br />
cowgirls on the bar, quality and affordable cuts of<br />
steak, seafood and even lobster (1,250Kč), complementary<br />
wine list, myriad salad and side offerings, cool bar, tunes and<br />
atmosphere. A fabulous cellar space, classy design, exellent<br />
cuisine and staff round out another Kampa success. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (250 - 750Kč)<br />
ABEIPW<br />
U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23,<br />
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen.cz.<br />
Renowned for the tiny though classy jazz joint downstairs, the<br />
street level bar has entertaining barmen, free-flowing beer<br />
and cocktails, and good food. Czech-Mex standards jostle<br />
for space with salads, sandwiches and hot pitas, although<br />
the menu has no breakfast dishes, except (Bohemia) bagels.<br />
Kitchen closes at 24:00 and 01:00 at weekends. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 02:00. (50 - 300Kc). EP<br />
Balkan<br />
Gitanes A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 7, MMalostranská, tel.<br />
257 53 01 63, www.gitanes.cz. A vast and fairly expensive<br />
selection of local and international wines precede a vastly<br />
unusual menu for a Prague restaurant. Octopus and mussels<br />
vie for space with veal and lamb, served in a marked Balkan<br />
slant, see sač, kajmak and sarma sauerkraut. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 24:00. (130 - 400Kč). AG<br />
Breakfast<br />
Bohemia Bagel A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 16, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 31 06 94, www.bohemiabagel.cz. This<br />
place is always full to the point of bursting with Americans<br />
satisfying their cravings for authentic bagels. The wake and<br />
bake offer for the breakfast bagel & unlimited coffee/coke is<br />
available till 11:00. Other bagels are available all day. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 24:00. Also at E-2, Praha 1, Masná 2. Open 07:00<br />
- 24:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00 & I-6, Praha 2, Tylovo nám.<br />
(50 - 150Kč). BG<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live music S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking<br />
O Casino M Nearest metro station<br />
R Internet W Wi-Fi 6 Animal friendly<br />
Cafés<br />
Café Savoy G-5, Praha 5, Vítězná 5, MAnděl, tel. 257<br />
31 15 62, www.ambi.cz. A fabulously restored grand café<br />
dating back to 1893 with a particularly stunning neo-Renaissance<br />
ceiling. Sit under the chandeliers to order food from<br />
the café menu with traditional Czech dishes or from the more<br />
elaborate French gourmet menu. Don’t skip the pastries and<br />
cakes that are made on the premises though. Great for a lazy<br />
breakfast with a newspaper too. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Sat,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 22:30. (140 - 300Kč). AP<br />
NEW<br />
Cukrkávalimonáda B-2, Praha 1, Lázeňská 7, tel. 257<br />
53 06 28, www.cukrkavalimonada.cz. A small café which<br />
adopts an evening menu at 18:00 and produces delicious<br />
meals such as chicken breast with prosciutto and mozzarella<br />
on balsamic vinegar and fresh baby spinach to go with some<br />
superb (but spendy) new world wines. Daytime offerings are just<br />
as tasty from breakfast to pancakes, sandwiches and homemade<br />
pasta. As relaxed as the tranquil square it is located on.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 350Kč). PG<br />
Downtown Café A/B-4, Praha 1, Újezd 19, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 31 14 11, www.downtowncafe.cz. A<br />
new location for this lovely café with low seats (and some<br />
odd ones), and a semi-open kitchen producing mostly sandwiches,<br />
but we saw a delicious steak being cooked one day.<br />
With DJs playing select nights and the beautiful staff wearing<br />
T-shirts emblazoned with the look better naked and Mecca<br />
logos, Downtown’s role as a pre-party for various club continues.<br />
And it is gay friendly. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun<br />
08:30 - 24:30. (85 - 110Kč). ABPW<br />
Kafíčko C-2, Praha 1, Míšeňská 10, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 724 15 17 95. A haven for the healthy, Kafíčko serves<br />
fabulous coffee and teas in a quiet smoke-free coffeehouse<br />
just off mainstream tourism madness. Rest your soul for a bit<br />
while you browse a newspaper, or try one of the home-made<br />
cakes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. G<br />
U Zavěšenýho kafe Praha 1, Úvoz 6, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 605 29 45 95. The name refers to a time when richer<br />
clients paid for two coffees, leaving one for the next impoverished<br />
artist to arrive. Sit and relax, buy a hanging coffee if<br />
you’re feeling philanthropic, otherwise while away the time in a<br />
space that exists outside the tourist zone around it. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00. BK<br />
For more food and drink go to<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
FOOD & DRINK AROUND <strong>PRAGUE</strong><br />
Czech<br />
Baráčnická rychta A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 23, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 24 61, www.baracnickarychta.<br />
cz. This dark and cosy pub, aglow from the copper lighting<br />
fixtures, may be the perfect place to experience the beauty<br />
of Czech winters, although in the warmer months it may<br />
translate as a little stuffy. Either way the food is as earthy<br />
and homemade as it comes in Prague.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(50 - 150Kč). AE<br />
Lví dvůr A-1, Praha 1, U Prašného mostu 6, MHradčanská,<br />
tel. 224 37 23 61, www.lvidvur.cz. Loitering in a small<br />
house at the northern entrance to the castle, the Lion’s<br />
Court offers Czech cooking fit for royalty at princely prices.<br />
The European wine selection is excellent and their kitchen<br />
does amazing things to pork that we hadn’t dreamed possible.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (150 - 400Kč). ABP<br />
Olympia B-4, Praha 1, Vítězná 7, MNárodní třída, tel.<br />
251 51 10 80, www.olympia-restaurant.cz. This retrofurnished<br />
Pilsner Urquell-owned restaurant provides a more<br />
modern and international slant to Czech staples - including<br />
the prices. It’s firmly on the tourist trail, but authentic, wellpresented<br />
and excellent for a beer, snack or full-on meal.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 300Kč). AT<br />
Sovovy Mlýny B-3, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2,<br />
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 59 00, www.sovovymlyny.<br />
com. The restaurant in the white mill building on Kampa Island<br />
is especially recommended for its riverside terrace. The menu<br />
includes many decent fish dishes but don’t let that distract<br />
you from the views of the weir and Charles Bridge. Excellent<br />
kitchen and astounding location on the river and next to the<br />
Museum Kampa. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. ABGP<br />
U Maltézských rytířů B-2, Praha 1, Prokopská<br />
10, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 36 66, www.umaltezskychrytiru.cz.<br />
A fairly ordinary upstairs bar area does<br />
not prepare you for the maze of tiny, secret passages below.<br />
Here you can dine in practically your own private cave. The<br />
repast is excellent, big and delicious. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(300 - 750Kč). AEG<br />
U Zlaté hrušky Praha 1, Nový svět 3, MHradčanská,<br />
tel. 220 51 47 78, www.zlatahruska.cz. Tucked above the<br />
castle in beautiful grounds on a quiet street, the Golden Pear<br />
is one of the top ten dining establishments in the city. Wood<br />
interior panels and low ceilings make for intimate dining and<br />
alumni include Margaret Thatcher and the Finnish president.<br />
Q Open 11:30 - 15:00; 18:30 - 24:00. (400 - 800Kč).<br />
ABEGPTU<br />
Vikárka A-1, Praha 1, Vikářská 39, tel. 233 31 19 62,<br />
www.vikarka.cz. This collection of delicately restored but<br />
wildly different rooms is a great place to sample Bohemian<br />
and international cuisine; try the grilled duck with honey and<br />
ginger, or the roast venison. The adjoining 16th century emperor<br />
Rudolph’s foundry rooms serve similar food. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 21:00. B<br />
French<br />
Bastille B-4, Praha 1, Újezd 26/426, tel. 257 31 28 30,<br />
www.labastille.cz. A laid back restaurant with excellent food<br />
and atmosphere enough to keep diners lingering for cocktails<br />
well after dessert. Although a French restaurant, Bastille does<br />
produce pasta, Czech and Czech-Mex dishes too. Lamb, pork,<br />
fish, mussels, frog’s legs all served with Gallic flair. Budvar.4l<br />
for 40Kč. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (90 - 380Kč). A<br />
€1 - 27.77Kč, US$1 - 20.88Kč,<br />
£1 - 40.63 Kč (19.03.2007)<br />
Pálffy Palác B-1, Praha 1, Valdštejnská 14, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 05 22, www.palffy.cz. The ambience<br />
of this 100% antique, turn-of-the-century dining room<br />
is shabbily aristocratic, and the clientele seem to feel the<br />
need to keep up appearances. It is, on the other hand, the<br />
perfect place to ask for the hand of your sweetheart. A favourite<br />
weekend brunch treat, the excellent smoked salmon<br />
and spinach pancakes are only surpassed by the stunning<br />
views of the castle gardens. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (400<br />
- 900Kč). ABGPT<br />
U Malířů B-3, Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 11, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 00 00, www.umaliru.cz. This is one of those<br />
restaurants that many acknowledge is a must-do in Prague as<br />
it has the reputation of the best French cuisine in the city. The<br />
pedigree is long, the restaurant was given three stars by an otherwise<br />
difficult to please King Rudolf II - in 1544, if you please. Go<br />
for the sumptuous décor and the ambience of wealth. QOpen<br />
11:30 - 24:00. (1,200 - 2,000Kč). AGPT<br />
U Patrona B-2, Praha 1, Dražického nám. 4, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 07 25, www.upatrona.cz. One of only<br />
fifteen Michelin recommended restaurants in Prague, dining<br />
at U Patrona is a trip into the bygone era of Czech hospitality.<br />
Diners can enjoy the intimate downstairs room or the large<br />
upstairs area where you can watch the chef preparing your<br />
French influenced Czech specialities such as quarter of a<br />
roast goose with almonds, red cabbage and rolled dumplings.<br />
Luxurious surroundings mimic the gracious service, superb<br />
menu and wine list. Euros accepted. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.<br />
(280 - 700Kč). ABEGPTU<br />
Indian<br />
Haveli Praha 6, Dejvická 6, MHradčanská, tel. 233 34 48<br />
00, www.haveli.cz. Have a seat in the bar area on the ground<br />
floor and watch Indian music videos with the staff, or dine in the<br />
beautiful cellar restaurant under vaulted ceilings and the watchful<br />
eyes of ancient gentry in paintings on the walls. Authentic cuisine<br />
and a good selection of vegetarian offerings. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 23:00. Bar open 11:00 - 02:00. (120 - 290Kč). A<br />
Malý Buddha Praha 1, Úvoz 44, MHradčanská, tel. 220<br />
51 38 94. Crammed with enlightenment-seeking students<br />
from the nearby American College, Little Buddha opens its<br />
doors to those who like calm, joss sticks and cleanliness of<br />
liver and lungs. A range of utilitarian dishes from the east<br />
are presented at charitable prices. The desserts were our<br />
favourite part, apart, that is, from the sprint down to the pub<br />
afterwards for a pint and a cigarette. QOpen 13:00 - 22:30.<br />
Closed Mon. (150 - 300Kč). G<br />
International<br />
NEW<br />
Akat Steakhouse B-2, Praha 1, Mostecká 19,<br />
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 03 00. No Czech cows at<br />
Akat, all their excellent beef comes from Argentina and is<br />
served with a smile in 200g or 400g slabs in cuts including<br />
fillet mignon, churrasco, sirloin, entrecote and T-Bone, with<br />
the usual sauce options to choose from. Chicken, pork and<br />
lamb round out their menu which is well complemented<br />
by the wine list. The winter garden setting is unusual and<br />
nicely bright for chilly days. QOpen 11.00 - 23.00. (200<br />
- 1000Kč). AB<br />
April - May 2007<br />
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FOOD & DRINK IN MALÁ STRANA & THE CASTLE<br />
Alchymist B-3, Praha 1, Hellichova 4, MStaromětská,<br />
tel. 257 31 25 18, www.alchymist.cz. Fabulous decor, service<br />
and menu in this opulent restaurant with faintly oriental<br />
leanings in the decor region, plus a few zebra stripes. Although<br />
the menu isn’t extensive, it can’t be faulted; foie gras, sea<br />
bass, lamb, whatever, it’s all good. For dessert, the creme<br />
brulee is divine. A few cheaper options on the wine list would<br />
facilitate a smooth evening, but for a special night out it’ll do<br />
very nicely, thank you. Q (300 - 650Kč). AGP<br />
David A-2, Praha 1, Tržistě 21, MMalostranská, tel.<br />
257 53 31 09, www.restaurant-david.cz. Up a winding<br />
cobbled street, the interior of this small restaurant looks<br />
like a genteel, yet chintzy living room. The wait staff behave<br />
in a butler-like fashion, the food, more Posh than Becks, is a<br />
gourmet’s delight and includes dishes such as chateaubriand<br />
in green pepper sauce and grilled tiger prawns in crab sauce.<br />
QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (190 - 550Kč). AGU<br />
Hergetova Cihelna C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 2b, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 55 34, www.kampagroup.com.<br />
Part of the Kampa Group of restaurants, this is a winner<br />
in every respect. A huge menu of Czech and international<br />
favourites tantalises, with great Neapolitan pizza’s thrown<br />
in for good measure. Sunday brunch with professionals on<br />
hand to look after your kids while you relax. We love it and<br />
you will too. Check out the upstairs lounge complete with pool<br />
table and big screen. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (70 - 400Kč).<br />
ABEGPT<br />
Kampa Park C-2, Praha 1, Na Kampě 8b, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 26 85, www.kampagroup.com. The<br />
legendary restaurant with THE who’s who of diners; Hillary<br />
Clinton et al. (see the decorative photographic evidence). With<br />
a magnificent location on the water just below the Charles<br />
Bridge, a meal here doesn’t come cheap, but you’ll forget<br />
the price once you’ve tasted the delicious nouvelle cuisine.<br />
Reservations recommended. The heated terrace remains<br />
open for your viewing pleasure. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (600<br />
- 750Kč). ABLPT<br />
Mlýnec C-3, Praha 1, Novotného lávka 9,<br />
MStaroměstská, tel. 221 08 22 08, www.pfd.cz. The<br />
Mill has the wonderful setting by the tower on the east end of<br />
Charles Bridge, and as such the terrace is a veritable who’s<br />
who of Prague A-listers. Not surprising when the chef is Marek<br />
Purkart, the first man to receive the Michelin Bibendum twice.<br />
Sample his grilled New Zealand lamb chops with truffle sauce,<br />
green broad beans and coucous. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00;<br />
17:30 - 23:00. (600 - 1,500Kč). ABEPU<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Nostitz B-3, Praha 1, Nosticova 2, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 00 76 81, www.nostitz.cz. A lovely late baroque<br />
summer palace built by the Jesuits in the 17th century<br />
is now a lovely restaurant with a gorgeous terrace along<br />
the Čertovka canal that creates Kampa Island. The usual<br />
chicken, steak, pork and Czech classics menu has some<br />
more international slants, such as shaslík. Private parties<br />
and weddings are catered for inside and/or outside where a<br />
grill adds to the garden party feel. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
(100 - 300Kč). ABL<br />
Square B-2, Praha 1, Malostranské nám. 5, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 21 09, www.squarerestaurant.cz. The<br />
only squares in this hip restaurant are the tourists who can’t<br />
help but wander in, given its excellent location. Cocktails, coffee,<br />
tapas, breakfast and primarily Italian cuisine given an inventive<br />
twist by the chef, can all be had in this maroon and white shrine<br />
to all that’s trendy. And the wine list, food and service lives<br />
up to the impeccable surroundings. One of the Kampa Group<br />
restaurants so ask for details of their frequent dining program.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. (155 - 500Kč). PAB<br />
U Zlaté studně B-1, Praha 1, U Zlaté studně 4,<br />
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 33 22, www.zlatastudna.<br />
cz. U Zlaté studně is still making waves in Prague’s restaurant<br />
scene after a successful opening. Sitting high above the city<br />
thanks to its roof-top elevation, it still manages to snuggle<br />
beneath the castle, and the classic architectural lines set the<br />
scene for quality cuisine and vintage wines. QOpen 07:00<br />
- 23:00. (400 - 690Kč). PTAB<br />
Medieval<br />
U Císařů Praha 1, Loretánská 5, tel. 220 51 84 84,<br />
www.ucisaru.cz. Top-class medieval dining in the centre of<br />
cobbled, old world Prague. A beautiful Gothic wine cellar is at<br />
your disposal to really make you feel that your rightful place is<br />
down the road at the castle. The chefs have catered various<br />
state dinners, and the prices tend to illustrate this. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00. (250 - 950Kč). ABEILP<br />
U Sedmi Švábů A-2, Praha 1, Jánský vršek 14,<br />
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 14 55, info@svabove.cz,<br />
www.svabove.cz. Yet more medieval shenanigans in the<br />
requisite cellar space where fire-eating, dueling and even<br />
torture takes place as you dine. Traditional recipes employing<br />
only authentic 15th and 16th century ingredients means no<br />
tomatoes or potatoes. Fun, games and lots of meat. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 450Kč). AEGIP<br />
Mexican<br />
Azteca B-4, Praha 1, Říční 9, tel. 257 32 73 89, www.<br />
azteca.cz. The menu offers the standard Mexican fare with<br />
drinks in the same vein: mojitos and margaritas, in fact, the bar<br />
does a fair business on its own, apart from the spicy food on<br />
offer in the restaurant. Excellent, spicy nachos. Although we’re<br />
not too sure about the OTT neo-Alamo décor, Azteca offers<br />
good fajitas, enchiladas and quesadilla, along with over 25<br />
types of tequila. Lunch menu 70Kč but there’s nothing Mexican<br />
on it. Good wine list, Staropramen for 25Kč and Corona<br />
70Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 380Kč). A<br />
Cantina A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 38, MMalostranská, tel.<br />
257 31 71 73. A warm and atmospheric Mexican, serving<br />
Texan-sized portions of decent grub and small swimming<br />
pool sized margaritas that slip down far too easily. The fajitas<br />
are exellent, although we suggest you may want some<br />
extra salsa to add some zing. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (120<br />
- 300Kč). ABE<br />
FOOD & DRINK IN MALÁ STRANA & THE CASTLE<br />
Spanish<br />
El Centro B-2, Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 9, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 33 43. This warm and bright Spanish<br />
eatery, slightly hidden in an discreet alleyway at Malá Strana,<br />
is an amazing choice if you are looking for a fiesta in your<br />
mouth. The paella is savoury and fresh, the tortilla espanola<br />
is piquant, and the gazpacho is delectable. It’s a spicy change<br />
from the routine. Sombreros off to this place. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 24:00. (120 - 300Kč). ABGU<br />
Bars<br />
Barbar B-4, Praha 1, Všehrdova 17, MNárodní třída,<br />
tel. 257 31 22 46, www.bar-bar.cz. Underground bar<br />
offering snacks, beers and slightly odd art pieces scattered<br />
under a large wooden propeller. The staff smile widely and<br />
the customers slouch because they feel at home. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.<br />
Shadow Bar B-4, Praha 1, Újezd 14, tel. 227 19 52 35.<br />
In the space once occupied by Bohemia Bagel’s internet café<br />
and the shortlived 8Ball, Shadow Bar is home to two foosball<br />
tables, some funky, hallucinogenic murals, long, low tables<br />
and a youthful hedonist crowd. Eclecticism is the name of<br />
this shadowy place. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00.<br />
St. Nicholas Café A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 10, MMalostranská.<br />
Purportedly a wine bar, St. Nick’s has been attracting<br />
drinkers of all vogues for years and his allure hasn’t waned.<br />
Dedicated drinkers keep the vibe going late and jazzy live<br />
music adds to the cellar ambience. Snacks available. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.<br />
The Blue Light B-2, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 224 93 22 49, www.ultramarin.cz. An older crowd<br />
jostles, jokes and jives late into the night in this supposed<br />
jazz club. It seldom has live music, but it does play chill tunes,<br />
from Barry White to Prince to jazz standards and well mixed<br />
cocktails. It’s a cool hot spot with very interesting interior<br />
design. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. E<br />
Zanzibar B-2, Praha 1, Lázeňská 6, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 602 78 00 76, www.monin.cz. The cocktails here are<br />
good – although we got a margarita in a martini glass – but<br />
make sure to sit at the bar. Wait staff are appalling with service<br />
running the gamut from brusque to nonexistent. The Rolling<br />
Stones improved the atmosphere but décor appears of the<br />
Mexican restaurant ilk. Cocktails are 85-150Kč, and Pilsner<br />
50Kč. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. P<br />
Pubs<br />
J.J.Murphy’s A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 4, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 53 55 75, www.jjmurphys.cz. Don’t worry, they<br />
also have Guinness. If you pine for the days when you could<br />
enjoy a pint, a good meal and your favourite sporting event<br />
without screaming Englishmen in dresses working on their<br />
20th beer, then belly up to this Irish bar. Watch live sport from<br />
one of the sofas in the attic lounge or have a proper breakfast<br />
with pudding or a real American burger on the ground floor.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. AK<br />
U Černého vola Praha 1, Loretánské nám. 1, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 220 51 34 81. It’s almost unbelievable to find<br />
a genuine, top-quality, great priced Czech pub just up the<br />
hill from the castle. Yet here it is. A tiled hall full of wooden<br />
benches, sextagenerians and the best Kozel on the planet.<br />
Walk up Nerudova (A-2), continue up Úvoz and make a right.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.<br />
Jazz<br />
U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23,<br />
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen.cz.<br />
Little Glen’s is, appropriately, a tiny venue downstairs from a<br />
scrubbed wooden Irish-type bar, and hosts a wide spectrum<br />
of local bands, with a particularly strong roster of jazz and<br />
blues acts turning up regularly. You can book one of the 20<br />
or so spots crammed in around the tables. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 02:00. Admission Mon, Tue & Thu 120Kč; Wed, Fri & Sat<br />
150Kč; Sun 70Kč. AEP<br />
Clubs<br />
Újezd A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 18, MNárodní třída, tel. 257<br />
31 65 37. Yes, the ambience is young, shabby and hedonistic,<br />
but Újezd’s three floors and especially the bizarre wrought<br />
iron sculptures are a tonic to eyes and ears. Friendly staff and<br />
hot (most of them smoking) people throng here any night for<br />
live music and/or DJs. The cellar is punk, and upstairs is a<br />
more eclectic chill zone. Don’t bring your posh frock, do bring<br />
some energy. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. E<br />
Out there clubs<br />
Abaton Praha 8, Na Košince 8 / Povltavská 2175,<br />
MPalmovka, tel. 602 32 44 34, www.prostorabaton.<br />
cz. Very cool club a tad out of town but with one of the<br />
best programs in the city, be it drum n bass DJs or live<br />
music to the tune of Chumbawamba, Natacha Atlas,<br />
The Dresden Dolls or Free Monday local heroes such as<br />
Dirty Airlines. Beer hall downstairs with video feed from<br />
the stage upstairs. Open for gigs only and closing time<br />
depends on the band/after party. Tram 10, 24, 25 to<br />
stanice Stejskalova QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. E<br />
Hany Bany Praha 4, 5. května 1640 (Congress<br />
Centre), MVyšehrad, tel. 261 17 42 41, www.<br />
discohanybany.cz. A disco reminiscent of the ‘heyday’<br />
of the 80s sits in the car park of the Congress Centre<br />
but manages to attract a fairly good-looking bunch of<br />
young locals and tourists to its massive underground<br />
space. Vanilla Ice played here, they cater for private parties<br />
and and host events such as Miss RnB. Pop muzak<br />
is pumped out to the ever increasing crowds. QOpen<br />
21:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Admission 100Kč. PE<br />
April - May 2007<br />
61
62<br />
FOOD & DRINK AROUND <strong>PRAGUE</strong><br />
Vinohrady & Žižkov<br />
Vinohrady (J/K-5/6) has everything from cheap ethnic<br />
restaurants, trendy bars and a fabulous beer garden to<br />
one of Europe’s top clubs. Neighbouring Žižkov (K-4/5) is<br />
a working-class district that’s proud to have the highest<br />
number of places serving alcohol in the country. Vinohrady<br />
is best explored from the Jiřího z Poděbrad (JzP), Náměstí<br />
Míru or I. P. Pavlova metro stations; night trams N°51, 57<br />
and 59 roll to and from the Old Town. Žižkov is a short<br />
steep walk past the TV Tower from JzP metro, or a short<br />
ride on trams N°5, 9 or 26. Stagger home on night trams<br />
N°55 or 58.<br />
American<br />
Ambiente Living K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 59, MNám.<br />
Míru, tel. 222 72 78 51, www.ambi.cz. One of the Ambiente<br />
chain, and as eternally popular as the others, this place<br />
serves up fresh salad, great stuffed peppers, ribs and of<br />
course chicken wings. This is billed as a ‘lifestyle’ restaurant<br />
and serves delicious dishes with their distinctive brand of<br />
style. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (150<br />
- 300Kč). A<br />
Australian<br />
Bumerang J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 52, MNám. Míru,<br />
tel. 222 51 70 47, www.52.cz. In addition to a wealth of<br />
international dishes, there are several varieties of kangaroo<br />
– fried, sautéed, grilled and mercilessly skewered – for those<br />
who have a craving for the island continent’s equivalent of<br />
deer. Only Foster’s is in evidence. Lively and often full, although<br />
there have been recent reports of mysterious additions to<br />
bills. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. (150<br />
- 250Kč). PAB<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Brewery restaurants<br />
U Vodárny K-5, Praha 3, Korunní 75, MJiřího z<br />
Poděbrad, tel. 222 52 25 40, www.restaurace-uvodarny.<br />
cz. At the Water Tower is famous for another liquid: fresh<br />
Gambrinus, Pilsner Urquell and Kozel from tanks rather than<br />
barrels – pubs must consume a certain amount of beer to be<br />
given this honour. It is also famous for excellent and cheap<br />
home cooked traditional food and that superb habit of singing<br />
rock n roll and country and western songs in Czech. Plus they<br />
have an adjacent non-stop herna with saloon doors. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 200Kč). BE<br />
Cafés<br />
Café Pavlač K-4, Praha 3, Víta nejedlého 23, tel. 222<br />
27 17 31, www.cafepavlac.cz. Healthy eating comes to<br />
Žižkov? Café Pavlač, named for the courtyard gallery out the<br />
back, which staff and artist are happy for you to explore,<br />
serves up good breakfast, snacks and meals, including pasta<br />
and salmon steak. Nights can happen too, with a full bar<br />
and Gambrinus at 22Kč. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00<br />
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (55 - 180Kč). B<br />
Kaaba J-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 20, MMuzeum, tel.<br />
222 25 40 21. This über-funky café and attached tabak on<br />
eclectic Mánesova is the perfect spot for their sinfully thick<br />
hot chocolate, varied selection of premium teas and coffees,<br />
plus breakfast, cakes and alcohol, of course. An assortment<br />
of design furniture, light fixtures and ashtrays allow the varied<br />
clientele to feel as cool as this place looks. Enjoy. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
NEW<br />
Maluj Creative Café Praha 3, Korunní 105, MJiřího z<br />
Poděbrad, tel. 774 62 58 51, www.studio-maluj.cz. Do it<br />
yourself chic at this new café that serves up unglazed pottery<br />
(plates, bowls, ashtrays, objects) in addition to the usual café<br />
food and beverage items. Roll up your sleeves and get creative<br />
with their paints, then they’ll glaze your work of art for you to take<br />
home. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. P<br />
Noel’s J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 18, MNám. Míru, tel.<br />
608 27 74 33, www.noels.cz. So far, new ownership of the<br />
Metropole has had little impact, with only a bluesier soundtrack<br />
in its mellow space and an increasing line up of live music, but<br />
Noel promises a gradual conversion into a rawer music club in<br />
the coming months. The food, drinks and laid back atmosphere<br />
remain, so head down for the talented live acts, mostly at the<br />
weekends at the moment. Reservations are necessary for the<br />
free live acts. Anagram Bookshop remains for the moment.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. EW<br />
Rybanaruby K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 87, MJiřího z<br />
Poděbrad, tel. 731 57 07 01, www.rybanaruby.cz. Part<br />
café, part live music venue, part shop it goes into the café<br />
section because of its opening hours. Underground music in a<br />
very literal sense – down the stairs you’ll find legalize cannabis<br />
proponents selling world music CDs, djembes, didgeridoos,<br />
etc. and hosting similar veined live acts (admission 51 -<br />
111Kč). Very cool space. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.<br />
Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymská 12, tel. 271<br />
74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thousands of handpicked new<br />
and used English titles, earnest poetry and prose readings<br />
and performance, newspapers, chess and backgammon,<br />
Bernard beer, some funky original art and mosaics, plus coffee,<br />
tea and cakes. Tram N°4, 22 or 23 to the Krymská stop.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. E<br />
FOOD & DRINK AROUND <strong>PRAGUE</strong><br />
Czech<br />
Hlučná samota J-6, Praha 2, Záhřebská 14, MNám.<br />
Míru, tel. 222 52 28 39, www.hlucnasamota.cz. Exposed<br />
brick walls and dark wood embrace all comers. The food<br />
though is the real reason to be here - quality fish and meat,<br />
crisp vegetables, and a few more side order options than<br />
usual plus real French fries.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun<br />
12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 250Kč). AB<br />
Koliba U Pastýřky J-7, Praha 4, Bělehradská 15, MI.P.<br />
Pavlova, tel. 222 56 43 35, www.pastyrka.cz. The<br />
Shepherdess’s Cottage caters to Czechs and tour groups with<br />
trestle type dining to the tune of traditional dulcimer Gypsy<br />
music. The wooden cottage was built as a representative<br />
Czechoslovak restaurant for the 1967 World Exhibition in Montreal<br />
and shipped over here for to continue the Czech dining<br />
pleasure. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. (90 - 300Kč). BE<br />
U Kalicha I-6, Praha 2, Na Bojišti 12, MI.P. Pavlova, tel.<br />
296 18 96 00, www.ukalicha.cz. The pub that features at the<br />
beginning of the Czech literary classic ‘The Good Soldier Švejk’ as<br />
the planned location of the never-to-be meeting “...at six in the<br />
evening after the war.” An oompah band keeps the atmosphere<br />
rolling. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). AEGP<br />
French<br />
L’Ardoise J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 29, MI.P. Pavlova,<br />
tel. 602 27 95 11, www.lardoise.cz. The kitchen, the staff<br />
and owner make diners feel suitably important for the calibre<br />
of cuisine and superlative wine list. Daily blackboard specials,<br />
such as soup, foie gras and fresh fish, join the succulent veal,<br />
beautifully caramelised salmon and sinful desserts.QOpen<br />
11:00 - 01:00. (180 - 420Kč). AB<br />
La Lavande J-6, Praha 2, Záhřebská 24, tel. 222 51 74<br />
06, www.lalavande.wz.cz. Behind the rather unwelcoming<br />
barred windows lies this gem of classic French cuisine that<br />
has one of the best lunch deals in the city. Chefs have years<br />
experience in 4 and 5 Star hotels and whatever you order, be<br />
it the goat cheese millefeuille, mussels, or crème caramel, it’ll<br />
be good. The mostly French wine list runs from 200 - 2000Kč.<br />
Q Open 11:30 - 15:00 & 18:30 - 23:00. Sat 18:30 - 23:00.<br />
Sun by request. (150 - 450Kč). PAB<br />
U Bílé krávy I-5, Praha 2, Rubešova 10, MI. P. Pavlova,<br />
tel. 224 23 95 70, www.bilakrava.cz. Although such<br />
classic French appetisers as frogs’ legs and escargot are<br />
served, the restaurant’s claim to fame, as one might surmise<br />
from the illuminated bull’s head hanging outside, is Charolais<br />
beef. Fantastic atmosphere, great service and even better<br />
food make reservations essential most evenings. Print out a<br />
10%discount card from the website. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. (125 - 600Kč). AP<br />
Greek<br />
Olympos K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 9, MJiřího z Poděbrad,<br />
tel. 222 72 22 39, www.tavernaolympos.cz. Rightfully the<br />
most famous Greek restaurant in Prague. Excellent Grecian<br />
starters, a haul of fresh seafood, and friendly, hard working<br />
staff. Superb. The massive garden may be closed but Olympos<br />
does have a lovely winter garden. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun<br />
11:30 - 23:00. (200 - 500Kč). ABT<br />
Chinese<br />
Huang He K-7, Praha 10, Vršovická 1, tel. 271 74 66<br />
51, www.huanghe.cz. Chinese as good as it should be;<br />
they spice the food up properly then warn Czech clients not<br />
to order that dish. Enjoy the hot and sour soup, but everything<br />
else on the menu is worth ordering, too. Tram N°6 from from<br />
I.P. Pavlova to the Nádrazí Vršovice stop. Reservations recommended.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also in Prague 9, Kolbenova<br />
1, tel. 283 89 05 18. (100 - 300Kč). AGP<br />
Indian<br />
Himalaya I-5, Praha 2, Mikovcova 7, MI.P. Pavlova,<br />
tel. 224 23 15 81, www.himalayagroup.cz. A functional<br />
take-away curry house with one table and a couple of stools<br />
if you really can’t wait. Excellent samosas, spicy jalfrezi,<br />
creamy korma, dal and chapattis make fairly cheap appearances.QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (60<br />
- 200Kč). S<br />
Manni Mini Praha 3, Seifertova 11, MHlavní nádraží, tel.<br />
222 51 16 60. A small, functional but very tasty Indian to fill<br />
the gap in the market. Curries of every hue and origin (tandoori,<br />
biryani, Punjabi, dopiaza, Madras, jalfrezi and vindaloo come in<br />
vegetarian, chicken, lamb and prawn variations with basmati rice<br />
and a wide smile. Good not brilliant, but oh, what a price. Wine for<br />
just 150Kč too.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (100 - 170Kč).<br />
Taj Mahal I-5, Praha 2, Škrétova 10, MMuzeum, tel.<br />
224 22 55 66, www.tajmahal.cz. It’s pricey, but the<br />
Indian décor, the pleasant service and the separate halls<br />
for smokers and the nicotine-free are all as worthy of the<br />
price as the authentic dishes they serve. At Taj Mahal, if it<br />
says spicy, then by Vishnu, it is spicy, and the same goes for<br />
the milder curries. An excellent place, although they don’t<br />
have draught beers, but they do have three Indian beers. If<br />
your curry was a tad hot, cool down with a lassi. QOpen<br />
11:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:30. (200 - 500Kč).<br />
AEGPTU<br />
April - May 2007<br />
63
64<br />
FOOD & DRINK IN VINOHRADY & ŽIŽKOV FOOD & DRINK IN VINOHRADY & ŽIŽKOV<br />
International<br />
Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, MJiřího z<br />
Poděbrad, tel. 296 33 09 90, www.palacakropolis.cz.<br />
We feel we have found the best chicken wings in Prague and<br />
Akropolis’ new management, while changing the menu, have<br />
kept the super spicy wings. Other reasons to come: it’s next<br />
to Akropolis, it serves other well-priced and excellent food<br />
till 00:30, it has funky, award-winning decor and fish tanks<br />
filled with anything but fish. Join the hip, late night crowd at<br />
this cool spot. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00.<br />
(80 - 200Kč). 6W<br />
Baang! Praha 4, Nuselská 46, tel. 241 00 06 66,<br />
www.baang.cz. We don’t normally like exclamation marks,<br />
but as this place serves one of the best pepper steaks in<br />
town, provides a menu which they are willing to adapt to any<br />
personal preference and has French Chardonnay for 120Kč<br />
a bottle, we’re going to let them keep it. It may be a quite a<br />
trek (tram N°11 or 56 to V horkach) but it’s worth it. QOpen<br />
11:30 - 01:00. (100 - 250Kč). AP<br />
Kuře v hodinkách K-4, Praha 3, Seifertova 26, tel. 222<br />
73 42 12, www.kurevhodinkach.cz. Industrial chic in this<br />
hip hospoda with an intriguing fusion-inspired kitchen: a wide<br />
range of salads, pasta, specialties ranging from chicken, duck<br />
and salmon to Texas steak, with onion rings and tzatziki rounding<br />
out the side dishes. Vegetarians are well catered for too.<br />
Take tram N°5, 9, 26 to Husinecká. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (110 - 300Kč). AE<br />
Le Club J-6, Praha 2, Belgická 42, MNám. Míru, tel. 222<br />
51 31 19, www.leclub.cz. The place that was Japanese/<br />
French fusion has moved to another cuisine, Lebanese. Classy<br />
and pricey, the decidedly Lebanese-looking menu offers<br />
mezze and main favourites with that French tri-coleurs twist<br />
in the methodology. Portions are a tad small and the décor<br />
not quite up to scratch; but impeccable service and unusual<br />
cuisine tips the scales in its favour though despite the prices.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (250 - 650Kč). ABP<br />
Los v Oslu Praha 3, Perunova 15, MJiřího z Poděbrad,<br />
tel. 222 51 32 95, www.losvoslu.cz. The Moose from<br />
Oslo doesn’t have moose on its wildly varied menu, but<br />
it does serve Norwegian gulaš. Wild boar, snails, duck,<br />
octopus, rabbit and quail round out the imaginative mains<br />
that are complemented by unusual side combos. The<br />
sirloin carpaccio is divine, the steak tender and cooked to<br />
perfection, somehow without even asking. More seating in<br />
the cellar. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 01:00.<br />
(85 - 345Kč). A<br />
Mozaika K-5, Praha 3, Nitranská 13, MJiřího z<br />
Poděbrad, tel. 224 25 30 11. At Mozaika every dish is so<br />
delicious that it’s difficult to make a choice. The seafood<br />
bouillabaisse is a hearty starter, tandoori chicken is piquant<br />
and tasty, while pasta dishes are rich and flavourful. The<br />
hamburger is touted as the best in Prague. Judge for yourself,<br />
but reserve a table first. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun<br />
16:00 - 24:00. (100 - 350Kč). B<br />
Retro J-6, Praha 2, Franzouzská 4, MNám. Míru, tel. 603<br />
17 61 11, www.kavarnaretro.cz. Excellent prices in a cool,<br />
vibrant space, with some pretty efficient wait staff. The menu<br />
is huge and French/Mediterranean with good vegetarian options,<br />
crepes, and huge salads. Pasta, fish, chicken and beef<br />
are all imaginatively prepared and well priced. Club downstairs<br />
and now live music next door too seems to be turning it into<br />
a slow-burning hot spot. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun<br />
09:00 - 23:00. (105 - 230Kč). AGP<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Sahara Café J-5, Praha 2, Ibsenova 1, MNám. Míru, tel.<br />
222 514 987. This corner café on Nám. Miru is sublime, from<br />
its huge interior complete with appropriately exotic teak and<br />
mahogany tables, rattan chairs, Buddhas, masks and other<br />
oriental objects on the walls, a gorgeous fireplace and outside<br />
seating in a quiet garden, to the menu of vaguely Middle<br />
Eastern dishes. A good expensive wine list, Parma ham on<br />
the bone and tall windows for seeing and being seen. A lovely<br />
spot. QOpen 11:00 - 00:30. (180 - 500Kč). ABIK<br />
Techtle mechtle J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 47, MJiřího<br />
z Poděbrad, tel. 222 25 01 43, www.techtle-mechtle.<br />
cz. New restaurant and bar which has the elements to make<br />
it work: good Mediterranean menu and wine list – although<br />
neither of these have been finalised yet, friendly staff, deep<br />
cellar to keep noise in and prying eyes out – well, it is called<br />
Hanky Panky after all… and plasma screens showing fashion<br />
& MTV (DJs we hope will come soon). Large circular main bar<br />
with a cosy cocktail bar deeper down. Check it out. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 04:00. (140 - 450Kč).<br />
Wings Club Praha 3, Lucemburská 11, MJiřího z<br />
Poděbrad, tel. 222 71 31 51. The Wings Club is a slice of<br />
aviation history served with humour, reverence and culinary<br />
delights – the latter from a chef formerly of the Four Seasons<br />
Hotel. Items from the owner’s collection of mostly WWII<br />
artefacts decorate the space, and interested guests will be<br />
shown around. Staff and menu are welcoming and bilingual<br />
and meals are large, beautifully presented and tasty. Fascinating.<br />
QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (120 - 300Kč). AB<br />
Italian<br />
Aromi K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 78, MJiřího z Poděbrad,<br />
tel. 222 71 32 22, www.aromi.cz. At Aromi there’s a<br />
compact choice of excellent pasta, meat and fish dishes,<br />
complemented by an equally good wine list. As a result,<br />
the spacious L-shaped space holds happy locals and<br />
expats enjoying the moment. Reservations recommended.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (95 - 395Kč).<br />
AGP<br />
Magická zahrada Praha 4, Nuselská 114, tel. 261<br />
21 42 52, www.magickazahrada.cz. The Magic Garden<br />
is indeed a magical little place, offering a real slice of Little<br />
Italy, with our personal highlight being the super selection of<br />
(we counted no less than six) steaks. Recommended. Take<br />
tram N°11 to the Michelská stop. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 11:30 - 23:00. (200 - 400Kč). ABP<br />
Roca J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 32, MNám. Míru, tel.<br />
222 52 00 60. The best service we’ve ever had in Prague by<br />
far was at this small neighbourhood trattoria; an enthusiastic<br />
girl who was clearly enjoying her job – a rarity in this town. And<br />
then there’s the food, which is exceptionally good for these<br />
price levels; no wonder it’s booked full every night.QOpen<br />
10:00 - 23:30. (100 - 800Kč). A<br />
Japanese<br />
Hanil Praha 3, Slavíkova 24, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel.<br />
222 71 58 67. Politicians could learn a few things from<br />
this casual restaurant serving both Korean and Japanese<br />
cuisine. Asian businessmen, locals and expats are all unified<br />
in their hunger for steaming bowls of pibimbap (a concoction<br />
of beef, rice, vegetables and egg) and mouth-watering platters<br />
of fresh sashimi. The attentive wait staff sport genuine<br />
smiles and even make a joke or two at no-one’s expense.<br />
Q Open 11:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 23:00; Sun 17:00 - 23:00.<br />
(250 - 500Kč). AIP<br />
Mediterranean<br />
Fluidum Praha 3, Lucemburská 1497/6, MJiřího z<br />
Poděbrad, tel. 222 221 702, www.fluidumrestaurant.cz.<br />
Fluidum is as smooth as its name suggests; a good wine list<br />
complements the small yet varied menu. We sampled perfect<br />
calamari, steak, pork tenderloin and salmon, all prime cuts.<br />
Vegetable sides are a welcome sight and the bread is warm<br />
and served with garlic oil. Czech dishes and pasta make slightly<br />
cheaper choices and there is a gourmet menu available. Subtle<br />
lighting, comfortable seating and service. QOpen 11:00 -<br />
24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (200 - 450Kč). AGP<br />
Mexican<br />
Amigos J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 16, MNám. Míru,<br />
tel. 222 25 05 94, www.texmex.cz. The menu is enormous,<br />
amusing, and with some topless shots to keep you<br />
turning the pages. The spice in the air and eyes bodes well<br />
for chilli-ed authenticity. Chimichanga is as tasty as it’s fun to<br />
say, steaks are large and tender, vegetarian options abound,<br />
cocktails are cheap and delivery is available. What more do<br />
you want? QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 160Kč). ES<br />
Amores Perros K-4, Praha 2, Kubelíkova 33, MJiřího<br />
z Poděbrad, tel. 222 73 39 73, www.amoresperros.cz.<br />
Amores Perros is no worse than any other Czech-Mex zone<br />
and they do have a very cool contraption to keep your tacos<br />
upright. Many a family group have weekend brunch here. Not<br />
authentic, but good enough. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (100<br />
- 300Kč). APS<br />
Banditos I-6, Praha 2, Melounová 2, MI.P. Pavlova,<br />
tel. 224 94 10 96, www.banditos.cz. More than just a<br />
Mexican as their copy rightly claims; try the super sandwiches<br />
and slaw. The Tex-Mex and burger standards remain at good<br />
prices, along with an amazing all-day full breakfast. Cool barkeeps,<br />
clientele and tunes. The kitchen is open until 24:00.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (100 - 300Kč). AS<br />
Sonora Praha 3, Radhoštská 5, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel.<br />
222 71 10 29. Tightly packed tables and immense popularity<br />
make Sonora a cosy spot where you will end up sharing<br />
your table. The menu is huge and daunting; go for burritos,<br />
chimichangas, flautas and nachos. The Native American tribal<br />
mural is interesting, but not as interesting as the massive<br />
selection of tequila. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 15:00<br />
- 24:00. (100 - 350Kč). B<br />
Pakistani<br />
Mailsi Praha 3, Lipanská 1, tel. 222 71 77 83. Prague’s<br />
only sit-down Pakistani restaurant is a leading light for those<br />
lusting real cumin in their dinner. The service is light yet<br />
deliciously attentive. Although still nowhere near the extravagances<br />
of most spiced offers in the city, their prices are starting<br />
to creep up a little. Take tram N°9 to the Lipanská stop. Q<br />
Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (150 - 400Kč).<br />
Russian<br />
Ruský Salón K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 79, MJiřího z<br />
Poděbrad, tel. 224 22 47 20, www.ruskysalon.cz. Ruský<br />
Salón’s cellar café space is clean-lined and classy, with raised<br />
armchair seating around the more usual wooden chairs. Russian<br />
staples such as bread and herring (“drink some vodka”<br />
they advise), blinis (pancakes) pelmeni (like pirogi), Sobraine<br />
cigarettes and of course caviar. Delicious light meals, breakfast,<br />
salads plus a deli and CD, DVD, video rentals. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (55 - 160Kč). PS<br />
Slovak<br />
U Krbu K-5, Praha 3, Nitranská 9, MJiřího z Poděbrad,<br />
tel. 728 70 27 97. Open the small menu of schnitzels and<br />
halušky (small dough balls with meat and gravy) and be rewarded<br />
with an illustration of a boisterous Slovakian woman<br />
missing the top half of her folk costume. Warm and smoky,<br />
this place is half grandmother’s living room, half decked out<br />
in paintings of peasants and walking sticks for Carpathian<br />
adventures. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 150Kč).<br />
Thai<br />
Tiger Tiger J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 5, MNám.<br />
Míru, tel. 222 51 20 84, www.tigertiger.cz. Burning bright<br />
on a quiet residential street, Tiger Tiger sports Thailand’s<br />
national colours and more Buddhas than you can shake an<br />
incense stick at. Exotic and authentic cuisine is the key to its<br />
popularity although the prices are not so popular (pad Thai<br />
for 215Kč). Velkopopovický Kozel beer on draught. Daily lunch<br />
specials for 100Kč. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:00<br />
- 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). AP<br />
Vegetarian<br />
NEW<br />
Beas J-6, Praha 2, Bělehradská 90, MI.P. Pavlova, tel.<br />
608 03 57 27, www.beas-dhaba.cz. The vegan Krishna<br />
type Northern Indian meals served on a metal tray migrates<br />
to Vinohrady. With a small garden and the same interior,<br />
Beas 2 will no doubtr continue the success of the original<br />
Old Town Beas - although choices, desserts and servings<br />
appear smaller at this location. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 18:00. (80 - 200Kč). PGB<br />
RadostFX I-5, Praha 2, Bělehradská 120, MI.P. Pavlova,<br />
tel. 224 25 47 76, www.radostfx.cz. Delicious and<br />
large portions of well prepared all-vegetarian offerings await in<br />
this hip cafe, restaurant, bar, club and video and music store<br />
hybrid. One of Prague’s best spaces, their menu is ecletic<br />
and imaginative. Check out their excellent weekend brunch,<br />
Mexican and Thai specials, salads, sandwiches, and pasta.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. (120 - 245Kč). A<br />
Pavel Vítek<br />
April - May 2007<br />
65
66<br />
FOOD & DRINK IN VINOHRADY & ŽIŽKOV FOOD & DRINK IN VINOHRADY & ŽIŽKOV<br />
Bars<br />
Žlutá pumpa<br />
J-6, Praha 2, Belgická 12, MNám. Míru, tel. 608 18 43<br />
60. The beer is well kept, but best of all, for anyone who<br />
has a big crush on white Russians, this place makes them<br />
as they should be; short and fat with a fistful of ice cubes.<br />
Loud, smoky fun and good value food. Make a reservation<br />
- this place is always full. Burritos are fabulous. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. K<br />
Blind Eye K-4, Praha 3, Vlkova 26, MJiřího z Poděbrad,<br />
www.blindeye.cz. You can’t keep a Blind Eye down… having<br />
been forced into speakeasy mode following a visit from the<br />
cops, Blind Eye is back on legal street so doors and windows<br />
will be open again to welcome the mixed crowd into its cellar<br />
interior. Friendly folk on both sides of the bar keep the vibe<br />
going late with help from well mixed drinks (try their signature<br />
McFly) and cool tunes. Video rental and foosball also. QOpen<br />
19:00 - 04:00. E6<br />
Hapu<br />
Praha 3, Orlická 8, MFlóra, tel. 222 72 01 58. The<br />
owner/barman creates magnificent drinks with studious care,<br />
there’s no tossing of shakers here, just mountains of fresh<br />
fruit and shots that would floor an elephant. Get here early if<br />
you want a seat or stand until you hit the deck because this<br />
place is tiny, has sounds the chilly end of cool and is therefore<br />
constantly packed. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.<br />
Harlequin J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 25, MMuzeum,<br />
tel. 224 21 72 40, www.harlequin.zde.cz. This<br />
combo would probably never happen anywhere else, but<br />
when you feel like having a few beers then shoot some<br />
arrows, we have found the place for you. With pool hall<br />
and new roulette wheel upstairs and laser golf, laser<br />
karaoke and archery down in the black walled cellar,<br />
Harlequin will keep the most dysfunctional group happy.<br />
Archery tuition on various bows for a lot of fun from<br />
19:00 - 24:00 is 200Kč per bow per hour. Golf 400Kč.<br />
Well priced but bottled only beer downstairs, Krušovice<br />
upstairs for 24Kč. An intriguing gem of a place. QOpen<br />
14:00 - 04:00. K<br />
Cheers J-6, Praha 2, Belgická 116, MNám. Míru, tel.<br />
222 51 31 08. The beer-drinking ethos that Cheers epitomises<br />
with its unaffiliated-to-any-brewery full range of beers<br />
is working well with a new generation of Czech and foreign<br />
drinkers. It isn’t the cheapest beer in town (Gambrinus 29Kč,<br />
Pilsner Urquell 36Kč) but the food is good (fish and chips<br />
135Kč) and they now serve a full Englsih breakfast for 355Kč.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. A<br />
Medúza J-6, Praha 2, Belgická 17, MNám. Míru, tel.<br />
222 51 51 07, www.meduza.cz. Decked out with myriad<br />
bits and bobs from the twenties and thirties, this is a fine<br />
place to sink in their soft furnishings, enjoy their good wine<br />
list (120 - 260Kč) and relax. The best pierogi in Prague apparently<br />
served with a smile from calm and efficient staff.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PU<br />
Mu Café K-5, Praha 3, Mánesova 87, MJiřího z<br />
Poděbrad. A less than obvious cellar bar that becomes a<br />
gem once found. The vibe is dictated by who is there, chilling<br />
smokers or the Tramix after party. DJs play at weekends and<br />
sometimes people dance. Staff are as relaxed as the patrons,<br />
and conviviality is the name of the game. Salads and hermelin<br />
are the only food groups available, but beer is 19Kč and a<br />
mojito is 85Kč. See you there. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 13:00 - 04:00. I<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Popocafepetl J-5, Praha 2, Italská 18, MNám. Míru,<br />
tel. 777 94 46 72, www.popocafepetl.cz. Cheap and<br />
cheerful, this hangout is always busy with the locals, from<br />
the supercool hip to the sometimes grungy. This isn’t a beer<br />
guzzling den; just 0.4 beers are served and their fair selection<br />
of international wines begins at just 260Kč. The food front<br />
is limited to pizzas, toast and hermelin cheese. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 15:30 - 02:00. Also at H-5, Praha<br />
1, Na Struze. AP<br />
Zvonařka J-6, Praha 2, Šafaříkova 1, MI.P. Pavlova, tel.<br />
224 25 19 90. Zvonařka has a tasty menu of grilled items,<br />
all cooked within sight on a BBQ atop their amazing terrace<br />
perched alongside Nusle valley; one of the best spots in the<br />
city to enjoy the weather and sup on cocktails or Budvar<br />
(25kč). Inside ain’t bad either, clean lines and high and low<br />
tables with three rooms, two bars and a big screen for televised<br />
events. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. ABK<br />
Pubs<br />
Martin’s Irish Pub I-6, Praha 2, Lublaňská 57, MI.P.<br />
Pavlova, tel. 222 51 81 17. This is an Irish bar for locals who<br />
crave the beer and atmosphere of the Emerald Isle without<br />
the English-speakers. The menu lists Czech-style international<br />
dishes and some of the cheapest Guinness in town at 59Kč.<br />
It’s probably also the only pub of its genre to offer Kung Pao<br />
pork and only one TV. Odd, yet refreshing. QOpen 11:30<br />
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. BKP<br />
Merlin J-6, Praha 2, Bělehradská 68a, MI.P. Pavlova,<br />
tel. 222 52 20 54, http://merlin-pub.hyperlink.cz. Merlin<br />
the magician shares brick wall space with Guinness posters<br />
and other emblems of Irishness, intermingled with antique<br />
agricultural contraptions. The long bar resembles that of an<br />
authentic pub and the sofas add to the laid-back feel. The<br />
lower level houses the restaurant, which serves the usual<br />
options with more than a dash of a varied Mexican menu.<br />
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. K<br />
U Sadu K-5, Praha 3, Škroupovo nám., MJiřího z<br />
Poděbrad, tel. 222 72 70 72. A very Czech pub with cool<br />
ice hockey game, pool downstairs, terrible toilets, spotty<br />
service, amazing collection of objets, or trash depending on<br />
your state of mind, and a pretty good kitchen. U Sadu is a<br />
local legend for all the above plus the fact they serve beer<br />
till dawn and food till 04:00. Love it. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00.<br />
(60 - 300Kč). BK<br />
U Vystřeleného oka K-3, Praha 3, U Božích<br />
bojovníků 3, tel. 222 54 04 65. Named for one-eyed<br />
hero Jan Žižka, whose statue dominates the skyline of<br />
Žižkov. The walls of this place ooze a childish sense of<br />
humour, covered as they are in nonsense and art by<br />
illustrator Martin Velísek. They look after you (if you’re in<br />
the gents), by providing large padded headrests above<br />
the urinals. Trams N°5,9,26,55,58 to Husinecká. QOpen<br />
16:30 - 01:00. Closed Sun. BE<br />
Clubs<br />
7 Vlků K-4, Praha 3, Vlkova 7, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel.<br />
222 71 17 25, www.sedmvlku.cz. Cucumber-like and<br />
bustling with a young Czech crowd, this combination of café,<br />
bar and club has been set up as the epitome of a relaxed<br />
night-spot for those that can’t be bothered to glam it up. Local<br />
artists have their work on display upstairs accompanied<br />
by smooth beats, whilst down in the cellar, the brickwork is<br />
the backdrop for giant angels, ragga and drum ‘n’ bass DJs.<br />
QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. E<br />
Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, MJiřího z<br />
Poděbrad, tel. 296 33 09 11, www.palacakropolis.<br />
cz. Akropolis goes a long way to saving the world on those<br />
humdrum nights in the winter. A sprawling den of scruffy<br />
delights with great and often unusual live music and DJs.<br />
There are two bars, an adjoining café, plus the excellent<br />
gig space offering some of the most intriguing music in<br />
Prague on offer. Gigs have to finish at 22:00 so start times<br />
here are punctual. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. Admission 30<br />
- 400Kč. EKW<br />
Bordo Praha 2, Vinohradská 40, MMuzeum, tel. 774<br />
03 99 91, www.bordo.cz. A new club making waves on the<br />
scene by booking varied acts to keep the youthful audience<br />
on their toes. This second floor venue hosts reggae, live<br />
punk and underground acts, crunk dance-offs and anything<br />
else in between, plus DJs spinning discs when no bands play.<br />
Admission depends on the gig. Q Open 17:00 - 02:00, Fri &<br />
Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. P<br />
NEW<br />
Bunkr Parukářka Praha 3, Prokopova ul., tel. 776<br />
36 64 10, www.parukarka.cz. The pub on the hill here<br />
has been keeping the resident homeless (work that out)<br />
awake for years, but with the opening of the nuclear bunker<br />
under the hill as a venue, silence will descend as we all<br />
descend down the 100 foot spiral staircase to join the fun<br />
in a place where fun was presumably not ever supposed<br />
to occur. Q Open for events only - check the website for<br />
details. E<br />
Infinity Praha 3, Chrudimská 2a, MFlóra, tel. 272 17<br />
65 80, www.infinitybar.cz. Infinity is a long time, and<br />
that’s usually how long lovely locals and leering expats<br />
linger in the cellar music bar/club. This is an unsophisticated<br />
hedonists’ den - descend and enjoy with everyone else. A<br />
decent restaurant of the same name sits on ground level<br />
and serves till midnight. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00<br />
- 01:00. PA<br />
Kain Praha 3, Husitská 1, MFlorenc, www.kain.cz.<br />
Loud and rough with a good line up of live music and DJs<br />
from international acts to the favourites of local revival bands.<br />
QOpen 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. E<br />
Le Clan J-5, Praha 2, Balbínova 23, MNám. Míru, tel.<br />
222 25 12 26. The shape-throwing in-crowd of Prague ebb<br />
and flow here on the weekend, depending on what’s happening<br />
at the larger clubs in town. Anything goes in this place,<br />
and usually does. Chill out on the numerous sofas, chat at<br />
the bar, or do the dance downstairs if it’s open. QOpen<br />
22:00 - 03:00, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. 100Kč<br />
admission for men.<br />
Le Mirage I-6, Praha 2, Lublaňská 48, MI.P. Pavlova,<br />
tel. 222 51 11 86. Hopping spot full of local bright and<br />
beautiful young things. The youth of the average punter is<br />
illustrated by the drunken mess visible by the end of the<br />
night but it is always busy and always an interesting night<br />
out. Champion foosball players congregate here. QOpen<br />
17:00 - 02:00.<br />
Matrix Praha 3, Koněvova 13, MFlorenc, tel. 608 70<br />
67 91, www.matrixklub.cz. Very cool club in Žižkov which<br />
has the characteristics of a young Akropolis. A large space is<br />
utilised by varied bands (a recent punk night had a three hour<br />
mosh session) and good equipment ensures the volume that<br />
their soundproofing requires. Cheap drinks, good crowd and<br />
excellent playlist. Check it out by taking a tram to Olšanská.<br />
QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. E<br />
Meli-Melo Music Club I-5, Praha 2, Žitná 41, MI.P.<br />
Pavlova, www.meli-melo.ic.cz. A new name, face-lift and<br />
line-up for the old African/United Nations bar known as<br />
Ridgeback. Deep beats and dnb is often spun by DJs, but<br />
there is still regular Afro rhythms, ethno and live music keeping<br />
the faith. Admission up to 70Kč for live music. QOpen<br />
16:00 - 04:00. EX<br />
RadostFX I-5, Praha 2, Bělehradská 120, MI.P. Pavlova,<br />
tel. 603 18 15 00, www.radostfx.cz. Unquestionably<br />
the glitziest club in town, RadostFX seems to be attempting<br />
to be more of a brand name entertainment centre, for those<br />
seeking an experience, than merely a club. Downstairs in<br />
the large housey club, the beautiful people of Prague mingle,<br />
entertained by a troupe of innovatively and often provocatively<br />
presented dancers. Glam it up with the roster of well<br />
known local and international guest DJs. Q Café open 11:00<br />
- 04:00. Closed Mon. Lounge open 11:00 - 04:00; club 22:00<br />
- 06:00. EP<br />
Retro Music Hall J-6, Praha 2, Franzouzská 4, MNám.<br />
Míru, tel. 603 47 67 47, www.retropraha.cz. A new<br />
and rising star of a club of the same name as the adjacent<br />
restaurant and music bar. The club has a good and varied<br />
roster of local and international bands and DJs rocking the<br />
decent floor, balcony and stage space. Open for gigs only and<br />
closing time depends on the band/after party. Admission 30<br />
- 500Kč depending on the band. Q Open Thu - Sat 17:00<br />
- 05:00. EP<br />
NEW<br />
XT3 Praha 3, Rokycanova 29, MFlóra, tel. 222 78 34<br />
63, www.xt3cz. A short walk from Flóra or JzP, this fabulous<br />
cavern space of a club in Žižkov has become the new home of<br />
XT3 (it was, and will always be to many, Guru). Come early or<br />
be lucky, but get one of the balcony booths. Live music and/or<br />
DJs plus foosball, flippery (pinball),and a café upstairs with cool<br />
sofas. The eclectic crowd accompanies the talent. QOpen<br />
19:00 - 05:00. Admission from 30Kč for live acts. E<br />
April - May 2007<br />
67
68<br />
FOOD & DRINK AROUND <strong>PRAGUE</strong><br />
Letná & Holešovice<br />
North of town, Holešovice (K-1) is slightly scruffy while<br />
Letná (H/I-1) is centred around Letenské náměstí with<br />
some worthwhile restaurants and bars and fabulous beer<br />
garden. The Vltavská metro station lies at the edge of the<br />
area; otherwise trams N°3, 5, 8, 14 and 26 rumble north<br />
across the bridges. Night trams N°51, 53 and 54.<br />
French<br />
La Creperie J-1, Praha 7, Janovského 4, MVltavská,<br />
tel. 220 87 80 40, www.lacreperie.cz. If you fancy a<br />
culinary change of scene, try a taste of Brittany in the heart<br />
of Holešovice. The galettes and crepes are paper-thin, and although<br />
the fillings are not as plentiful as you’d like, it does give<br />
you the excuse to try a couple of them. Vegetarians are well<br />
catered for. They do some very reasonable wines, and even<br />
Breton cider. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (30 - 120Kč). P<br />
Le Bistro de Marléne Praha 6, Schwaigerova 59/3,<br />
tel. 224 92 18 53, www.bistrotdemarlene.cz. Staple of<br />
the French expat and diplomat scene for a number of years,<br />
its diminutive menu is is a major plus. Crafted French country<br />
recipes can be accompanied by beautiful wines - although<br />
these will empty your pockets. Others have come and gone,<br />
this place is the real thing although it has now moved to the<br />
Villa Schwaiger hotel. Q Open 11:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 22:30;<br />
Sat 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (370 - 570Kč). AGP<br />
International<br />
Fraktal H-1, Praha 7, Šmeralova 1, MHradčanská, tel.<br />
777 79 40 94, www.fraktalbar.com. Fraktal has grown up<br />
into Mexican-leaning eatery with massive portions while the<br />
night time onus is definitely still into beer drinking. Brunch runs<br />
till 15:30 at weekends. Daily menu includes burgers (some<br />
heading to the boutique end of the scale; see goat cheese<br />
and pistachio) and steaks. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun<br />
11:30 - 01:00. (60 - 200Kč). BEK<br />
Letenský zámeček I-2, Praha 7, Leteské sady 341,<br />
MHradčanská, tel. 233 37 82 00, www.letenskyzamecek.cz.<br />
A mock castle perched high above the city in<br />
Letná park, this is a great place to come in the summer. To<br />
one side, the cheaper tables are served by the grill sheds, to<br />
the other, decent salads, pastas and fish are escorted from<br />
the chateau itself. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (100 - 300Kč).<br />
PTAGB<br />
Svatá Klára Praha 7, U Trojského zámku 35, tel. 233<br />
54 01 73, www.svataklara.cz. For something completely<br />
different, descend 16m underground in this natural cave<br />
made into a wine cellar and restaurant. The rough stone is<br />
cheered up with classical furniture and artworks, and the<br />
classy menu features Czech game dishes such as pheasant<br />
breast with forest herbs and sage. Find Svatá Klára near<br />
Trojska castle, a short taxi ride from town. QOpen 18:00<br />
- 01:00. (300 - 1,440Kč)<br />
Spanish<br />
La Bodega Flamenca H-1, Praha 7, Šmeralova 5,<br />
MVltavská, tel. 233 37 40 75. A colourfully-tiled cellar that<br />
replicates the small-dish-rattling ways of a tapas bar. The food<br />
is a delight, and the staff are genuinely happy to see you. And<br />
should you fancy some salsa on the dancefloor rather than<br />
on your plate, then this is the place for you. QOpen 17:00<br />
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. (150 - 300Kč). EGP<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Bars<br />
Irish Club Prague H-1, Praha 7, Keramická 4, tel. 233<br />
37 11 28, www.irishclubprague.com. An Irish bar in the<br />
heart of Letná rather than Old Town allows for friendlier prices<br />
and local attendance. Live (Irish & Czech country, blues and<br />
more) music (there is also a piano for punters), quiz nights,<br />
foosball and warm wooden interior. Gambrinus 20Kč. Accommodation<br />
available upstairs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
Le Tram H-1, Praha 7, Šmeralova 12, tel. 233 370<br />
359. The French owner of this red-lit funky bar has bits of<br />
trams all over the place – from the plastic chairs to the hand<br />
railings. Better yet are the cheap beers and cocktails that<br />
the wizards behind the bar conjure up, and the great French<br />
multi-culti music which is DJed or played live in the rear corner.<br />
QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.<br />
Un Chien Andalou H-1, Praha 7, Korunovační 4, tel.<br />
731 22 11 67. Red and louche, this spot is perfect for some<br />
decadent though faintly sophisticated boozing. It’s dark and<br />
boudoir-like, with sofas mingling with tables and the bar<br />
crowd. Live music rears its head occasionally though cool<br />
tunes make an appearance nightly. Go for a looksee and you<br />
might never leave. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.<br />
Wakata I-1, Praha 7, Malířská 14, MVltavská, tel. 233<br />
37 05 18, www.wakata.cz. You’ll have plenty of time to<br />
admire the owner’s welding work, in the form of outlandish<br />
bar stools, whilst waiting for them to relocate your order in<br />
the scrambled minds which they nonchalantly nod to a great<br />
soundtrack of hip-hop and other assortments. QOpen 17:00<br />
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. E<br />
Clubs in Letná<br />
Cross Club Praha 7, Plynární 23, tel. 736 53 50 53,<br />
www.crossclub.cz. An underground legend has emerged<br />
into legal luminescence as the cool kid on the block. Jungle,<br />
drum ‘n base, house and chill have their own rooms and<br />
the music, whether DJ or live, has to compete with some of<br />
the funkiest, most inventive décor around. QOpen 14:00<br />
- 03:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 05:00. EK<br />
Face To Face Praha 7, Ostrov Štvanice 1125, MVltavská,<br />
tel. 242 49 83 53/607 18 03 31, www.facetoface.cz.<br />
Rub shoulders and, if you play your cards right,<br />
perhaps more with the young Czech crowd at this club which<br />
hosts theme nights on and around its 3 dance floors, many<br />
bars and viewing balcony. Huge and popular, the music runs<br />
from classic hits of the 80s to the best of Czech pop. Q Open<br />
Thu - Sat 20:00 - 06:00. Admission 100Kč. BP<br />
Mecca Praha 7, U Průhonu 3, MNádraží Holešovice,<br />
tel. 283 87 05 22, www.mecca.cz. One can hardly shuffle<br />
from one foot to other without falling into the lap of some<br />
super-model clubbing lass lying back on one of the huge white<br />
sofas. Great music and vibe, check out free Wednesdays<br />
and the superb selectro nights.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri<br />
11:00 - 06:00, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Admission<br />
150 - 200Kč. AEPU<br />
Misch Masch I-1, Praha 7, Veletržní 61, MVltavská,<br />
tel. 603 22 22 27, www.mischmasch.cz. The legendary<br />
club of Prague of old, well, Prague of 2002 anyway, has been<br />
refurbed and reopened to much noise, fanfare and acclaim.<br />
A good line up of local and international DJs keep the beats<br />
going on the dance, oldies and black music zones. Q Open<br />
Thu - Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Admission 50Kč/100Kč Fri & Sat<br />
22:00 - 04:00.<br />
Smíchov & Anděl<br />
FOOD & DRINK AROUND <strong>PRAGUE</strong><br />
Long a disregarded industrial area (with the fabulous Staropramen<br />
brewery still in its midst), Smíchov (G-5/6 and westwards)<br />
is making amazing steps towards becoming another<br />
funky area. Countless restaurants and bars cater to a young<br />
Czech crowd. Anděl metro station is in the district’s heart;<br />
night trams N°54,58 and 59 will take you away from it all.<br />
American<br />
TGI Fridays Praha 5, Nádražní 110, MAnděl, tel. 257 28<br />
62 61, www.tgifridays.cz. Another location for the same as<br />
it ever was slice of Americana although this one has cheaper<br />
prices than its Old Town sibling and shares its bathrooms with<br />
Planet Sushi next door. The rejuvenation of this area is underlined<br />
by the location here of Prague’s second TGIF. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00. (120 - 400Kč). AGPTW<br />
Brewery restaurants<br />
Na Verandách Praha 5, Nádražní 84, MAnděl, tel. 257<br />
19 11 11, www.ppivovary.cz. Enjoy Czech and regional specialties<br />
with the freshest Staropramen in town at the brewery<br />
restaurant. The basic furniture seats tourists, businessmen,<br />
hair-of-the-dog drinkers and even ladies who lunch. The<br />
halůsky, a variation of spätzl noodles, with goat cheese and<br />
crispy bacon, and the gulaš, of course, are recommended. For<br />
the beer, try the turbid Kvasničák, an unfiltered, unpasteurised<br />
yeast beer (25Kč). All Interbrew’s other beers are available<br />
too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200Kč). B<br />
Cafés<br />
Káva Káva Káva G-6, Praha 5, Lidická 42, MAnděl. The<br />
future of the café for Prague with internet in the back (free 15<br />
minutes with purchase), Wi-Fi all over and superlative staff. Czech<br />
or English, it matters not for these always happy-to-serve girls.<br />
Smoothies and café frappé will prove more popular as summer<br />
arrives. Cheap Czech Mex standards make up the menu after the<br />
more usual cakes and bagels. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat<br />
09:00 - 22:00. Also at (E-4), Národní 31. (40 - 250Kč). W<br />
Czech<br />
Czech Folklore Na Zlíchově 18, tel. 251 522 255,<br />
www.folkloregarden.cz. If you’re not one to sit still during<br />
a meal, then this is the restaurant for you. At Czech Folklore,<br />
you’re fed large portions of traditional Czech food and beer,<br />
and simultaneously entertained with a three-hour show with<br />
live music and folk dancing. Great fun if you’re in for a countrystyle<br />
party; active participation is welcomed. Czech Folklore is<br />
south of Smíchov; tram N°12, 14 or 20 to Hlubočepy. QOpen<br />
20:00 - 22:30. (550 - 990Kč). ABEP<br />
Grotta Praha 5, Ostrovského 7, MAnděl, tel. 251 56<br />
27 50, www.grotta.mtbike.cz. Just up the hill from Anděl<br />
bus station, this cellar restaurant is a great find. Attentive<br />
staff are welcoming as the arched and alcoved room. Food<br />
is large, filling, delicious and curiously named. Try Bloodied<br />
squirrel with asparagus or Knight’s sword with chicken steak.<br />
Alternatively, go for the Czech regulars. Excellent. And the<br />
beer is cheap. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.<br />
(99 - 225Kč). AP<br />
€1 - 27.77Kč, US$1 - 20.88Kč,<br />
£1 - 40.63 Kč (19.03.2007)<br />
International<br />
Mirage G-1, Praha 5, Náměstí 14. října 17, MAnděl,<br />
tel. 257 31 13 84, www.miragebar.cz. The service<br />
matches the classy décor and menu and the Bloody Mary is<br />
pretty damn good too. Mirage offers quality sushi, breakfast,<br />
baguettes, fondue, a 99Kč daily special, plus the usual<br />
international menu items. Good cocktails, perfect espresso<br />
and wines from 120Kč make this a great spot for a chat or<br />
dinner. QOpen 08.00 - 24.00, Sat, Sun 10.00 - 24.00. (60<br />
- 350Kč). PAB<br />
Pizzeria U Tučňáků Praha 5, Nádražní 19, MAnděl,<br />
tel. 257 31 66 50. Colourful yet sterile, but the food is<br />
well prepared, large and well priced. The pizza oven keeps<br />
the place warm, although is more than pizza on their menu.<br />
Chicken steak with beautifully poached salmon and spinach is<br />
delicious and comes with a tasty cheese sauce. The plate of<br />
chicken, roast broccoli and potatoes au gratin a huge meal for<br />
139Kč. All in all a great place. The interesting looking music<br />
bar downstairs is open from 16:00 - 04:00. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 23:00. (85 - 260Kč).<br />
Wigwam G-5, Praha 5, Zborovská 54, MAnděl, tel. 603<br />
50 81 20, www.cafebarwigwam.cz. Vaguely Aztec/Latino<br />
décor but with an international menu leaning towards the<br />
Oriental side of the globe and with no Mexican dishes at all.<br />
Excellent burgers and crisp fries join pasta, salads, steak,<br />
duck and chicken plus Thai curry and noodles dishes on their<br />
good menu. Sit in the garden complete with guardian angel<br />
or inside in one of their many rooms. Cool photography, one<br />
of the best waitresses yet and well priced drinks, including<br />
Mezcal. Budvar 29Kč make this a great find. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 01:00. (95 - 255Kč). B<br />
Japanese<br />
Nagoya Praha 5, Stroupežnického 23, MAnděl, tel.<br />
251 51 17 24, www.nagoya.cz. The first genuine Japanese<br />
restaurant in Prague. Nagoya comes complete with its<br />
authentic Japanese chef and food that has quickly become<br />
very popular with Prague foodies and visitors alike. Sushi,<br />
sashimi, tempura, noodles... all are here, and all are well done.<br />
Thoroughly recommended. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00<br />
- 23:00. Closed Tue. (140 - 440Kč). AGP<br />
Planet Sushi Praha 5, Nádražní 110, MAnděl, tel. 257<br />
28 62 61. An oasis of Japanese calm among the urban<br />
bustle of Anděl/Smíchov’s busy thoroughfare, although the<br />
ambience is marred slightly by the proximity and shared<br />
bathrooms of the adjacent TGI Friday. Attentive staff and<br />
complete menu including yami rolls and deserts provide an<br />
alternative to the Japanese restaurants already in the area.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (200 - 750Kč). AGP<br />
Pool Café Praha 5, Ralická 1/B (Anděl City), MAnděl,<br />
tel. 226 08 21 32/737 04 91 58, www.sushigohome.cz.<br />
From the makers of SushiPoint at the Myslbek centre comes<br />
the same menu in more laid back surroundings. It’s all a tad<br />
Hockney inside with a refracting pool-like paint job, but the<br />
sushi, sashimi and nigiri are the same high quality.QOpen<br />
10:00 - 12:00. (180 - 600Kč). A<br />
Sushi Bar G-5, Praha 5, Zborovská 49, MAnděl, tel. 603<br />
24 48 82, www.sushi.cz. The freshest fish for the best sushi,<br />
this place does it - but for a price. Try the sushi menu for a selection<br />
sampler - the three piece Temaki Sushi set and nine piece<br />
Sashimi set was handsomely presented and deliciously refreshing.<br />
Superb service and intimate setting make this a continual<br />
favourite. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (250 - 500Kč). AP<br />
April - May 2007<br />
69
70<br />
FOOD & DRINK IN SMÍCHOV & ANDĚL<br />
Lebanese<br />
Safir Obchodní centrum Nový Smíchov, Praha 5, Plzeňská<br />
8, MAnděl. It’s true, Safir is in a mall and it is self service, but<br />
for vine leaves, hummus, baba gannoush, tabouleh, fatoush,<br />
falafel and gyros, you cannot complain with the flavour or price.<br />
Hot meals such as grilled fish, chicken in Mediterranean veggies<br />
etc. are daily specials and for the real fast foodies, grab a<br />
sandwich. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 200Kč). PTU<br />
Mexican<br />
Hombre del Mundo Mexicano Praha 5, Nádražní 21,<br />
MAnděl, tel. 257 32 69 02. From the makers of Corleone Pizza<br />
comes this pseudo-Czech-Mex playing Sade, serving hit and miss<br />
meals and some mean cocktails. The margarita is excellent, not<br />
made of the too-sweet mix, mojitos similarly well crafted and all<br />
cocktails can be virginised if you so wish. The food, tender chicken<br />
steak, sizzling & spicy fajitas (not enough guac or salsa – although<br />
the latter is spicy), odd quesadillas, dry nachos, like we say, hit and<br />
miss. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (90 - 100Kč).<br />
Seafood<br />
La Cambusa Praha 5, Klicperova 2, MAnděl, tel. 257<br />
31 79 49, www.lacambusa.cz. This provincial Italian<br />
kitchen serves up a small range of saltwater fish (as opposed<br />
to shellfish). In a landlocked country such as this, it’s a good<br />
sign, albeit an expensive one. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00. Closed<br />
Sun. (300 - 1,300Kč). AGP<br />
Bars<br />
Back Doors Praha 5, Na Bělidle 30/310, MAnděl,<br />
tel. 257 31 58 24, www.backdoors.cz. This space is<br />
part restaurant, part bar and part club in the cellar of an old<br />
Smíchov house. Massive wooden furniture and forged iron<br />
work complement the brick walls and parquet floor of its<br />
historical setting. Good for their lunch specials and fabulous<br />
for the night time change to music bar with high quality audio<br />
system, where you can hear various styles of music from<br />
famous Czech DJs. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00,<br />
Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. AE<br />
Jet Set Praha 5, Radlická 1c, MAnděl, tel. 257 32 72<br />
51. The central square bar is low enough for all drinkers to<br />
scan the crowd and check out who’s who this evening, the split<br />
levels ensure dancers with confidence will be centre stage,<br />
and the DJs make sure everyone has to get close together for<br />
any conversation. It’s sleek, chic and designed to empty NYC<br />
wannabes’ pockets with style. The great menu has a Mediterranean<br />
influence. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. ABGP<br />
Lokalblok Praha 5, nám. 14. října 10, MAnděl, tel.<br />
777 24 24 76, www.lokalblok.cz. A climbing bar in Anděl,<br />
with air conditioned walls, claiming to be the third largest in<br />
Europe. With good overhangs and some tough lines, the wall<br />
will create a thirst that is easily and cheaply quenched in the<br />
popular bar upstairs, where the prime sport is vertical flirting.<br />
A weird foosball table downstairs too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
Climbing wall open 09:00 - 22:00; Sat & Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
60Kč per day. BP<br />
Pekelnej Bar Praha 5, Na Bělidle 38, MAnděl, tel. 257 32<br />
24 10, www.pekelnejbar.cz. Anděl might mean angel in Czech,<br />
but this part of town is acquiring a devilish reputation. Pekelnej,<br />
meaning Hellish, is heavy on chains, red drapery and attitude. DJs<br />
spin nightly although the lack of dance floor means you have to<br />
jostle with one another. Excellent Bloody Mary for just 80Kč and<br />
Czech wine from 160Kč a bottle. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00.<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
The Swamp Praha 1, Ujezd 5/558. The anarchic spirit of<br />
Hawkeye’s tent at the Mash 4077 lives on in this cavernous<br />
bar in Smíchov where the phat beats emanating from the<br />
DJ seem to shift the smoky air while a varied set of drinkers<br />
fill the many rooms, nook and crannies. Head down, down,<br />
down the stairs and join the fun from early to late – or vice<br />
versa. Excellent bar staff. Tram to Švandovo divadlo. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 04:00.<br />
Clubs<br />
Futurum G-6, Praha 5, Zborovská 7, MAnděl, tel.<br />
257 32 85 71, www.musicbar.cz. Smíchov is on its<br />
way to glory, and the way is paved by Futurum’s, er,<br />
futuristic rooms. Its ultra modern conversions with eccentric<br />
lighting and exposed metal and brick is inventive.<br />
The place hosts launch parties for Czech bands, the<br />
odd cultural festival and half-decent DJs. Fridays host<br />
their popular 80s & 90s night. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00.<br />
Admission 100Kč. E<br />
Klub 007 Strahov<br />
Praha 6, Vaníčkova 7, Koleje ČVUT blok 7, tel. 257 21<br />
14 39, www.klub007strahov.cz. Skulking in the basement<br />
of a block of student accommodation near Stadion Strahov,<br />
this hardcore/punk and hip-hop club has been keeping study<br />
results bad for years. QOpen 19:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:30<br />
- 02:00. E<br />
Popocafepetl Music Club Praha 1, Újezd 19,<br />
www.popocafepetl.cz. New cellar music club from<br />
Popocafeptel who have cool bars at two other locations.<br />
The club has a wine bar attached which can double as a<br />
chill out room. The space is small but well utilised and<br />
already drawing the crowds. Located by trendy Downtown<br />
Café, this block is a new hotspot. Their bookings<br />
are an international bunch from homegrown talent to<br />
bands/members from SCO/FRA/SK/HU. Sundays have<br />
proved a good night for Gitans (CZ) and their gypsy<br />
nights. Gigs begin at 20.30. Admission up to 150Kč.<br />
QOpen 16.00 - 02.00. E<br />
Punto Azul Praha 5, Kroftova 1, MAnděl, tel. 257 32<br />
85 94, www.puntoazul.cz. If you tire of laughing at coked-up<br />
Martini people as the raison d’etre of your night life, try, as a<br />
suitable antidote, a long night with scruffy local ragamuffins<br />
playing tunes ranging between drum’n’bass, underground<br />
techno and deep house. A fine selection of cheap beers in a<br />
comfy budget bar/club with plenty of space to lounge around.<br />
QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 03:00. Admission<br />
50 - 100Kč. E<br />
U Bukanýra<br />
G-6, Praha 5, Hořejší nábřeží, MAnděl, tel. 608 97 35<br />
82, www.bukanyr.cz. Find Bukanýra, a houseboat-looking<br />
floating bar and club at it’s new address under Palackého<br />
most. It’s small but friendly and always busy with chilled<br />
groups lounging in the comfortable group seating arrangements.<br />
Various DJs spin discs while boozers smooze.<br />
QOpen 16:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. Club open Thu - Sat<br />
19:00 - 03:00. B<br />
U Buldoka Praha 5, Preslova 1, MAnděl, tel. 257<br />
32 91 54, www.ubuldoka.cz. Straddling the fence<br />
between a munched out smokey dive of a bar and a<br />
club because it’s open late and has DJs, The Bulldog, in<br />
the same vein that it was started in a few years ago, is<br />
the receptacle for the flotsam and jetsam from Chateau<br />
across the river. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Admission 50 - 100Kč.<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
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ISSN 1641-5264<br />
TIRANA<br />
WARSAW<br />
2005 - 2006<br />
December 2006 - January 2007<br />
Boom town<br />
Tirana‘s new face<br />
On the road<br />
Driving around southern<br />
Albania<br />
Monopoly<br />
Warsaw style<br />
Get your fill<br />
Secrets of the Polish<br />
kitchen<br />
Europe’s leading publisher<br />
of locally produced city guides<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
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N°40 - 8.00 lei<br />
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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°9 - Free copy<br />
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BELFAST<br />
December 2006 - January 2007<br />
April - May 2006<br />
A New Look<br />
We‘ve never looked<br />
better: In Your Pocket<br />
gets a makeover<br />
Blogging<br />
Bucharest<br />
Our guide to the best<br />
politically incorrect<br />
comment online<br />
Including<br />
LISBURN<br />
Spend, Spend,<br />
Spend<br />
The best shops for<br />
Christmas gifts and<br />
New Year bargains<br />
Hard Hat Tours<br />
& Public Art<br />
Trails<br />
The city revealed...<br />
inside and out<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°47 - 35kr<br />
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TALLINN<br />
RIGA<br />
April - May 2006<br />
April - May 2006<br />
Touring Narva<br />
Cool sights at the EU‘s<br />
eastern border<br />
IYP gets a new<br />
look<br />
The inside scoop on the<br />
new look inside<br />
Hockey Fever<br />
Everything you need to<br />
know about IIHF World<br />
Championship in Riga<br />
Explore Latvia<br />
Take a day trip to<br />
the seaside towns of<br />
Jūrmala and Liepāja<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
ST. PETERSBURG<br />
BELFAST BERLIN BUCHAREST BUDAPEST DORTMUND<br />
FRANKFURT GDAŃSK HAMBURG KAUNAS KLAIPEDA<br />
KRAKÓW KYIV LEIPZIG PÄRNU MUNICH<br />
POZNAŃ <strong>PRAGUE</strong> RIGA RIJEKA ST. PETERSBURG<br />
SKOPJE SOFIA STUTTGART TALLINN TARTU<br />
VILNIUS WARSAW WROCLAW ZADAR ZAGREB<br />
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April 2006<br />
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Culture & Events<br />
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<strong>PRAGUE</strong><br />
December 2006 - January 2007<br />
BERLIN<br />
December 2006 - February 2007<br />
Love it or hate it<br />
Christmas is pretty<br />
(and) crowded<br />
Puck off<br />
A midwinter night’s<br />
entertainment<br />
Christmas<br />
Markets<br />
See Berlin through<br />
Glühwein goggles<br />
Shopping<br />
Fashion, bags and<br />
souvenirs
Generally, you’ll have to pay an entrance fee (around<br />
500Kč) to sit at the bar; this fee is waived if you are there<br />
to pay for other services immediately. Many of the central<br />
clubs pay men and women to entice you off the street and<br />
into their nearby establishments, but if you’re heading<br />
somewhere by taxi, make sure you’re taken to the one<br />
you want to go to rather than the one the taxi driver gets<br />
commission from.<br />
Big Sister Praha 5, Nádražní 46, tel. 257 31 00 43/257<br />
31 00 44, bigsister@bigsister.net, www.bigsister.net. Forget<br />
about big brother watching you, this is voyeurism Big Sister<br />
style. Prague’s first online brothel has 40 girls, 58 cameras and<br />
you being beamed live onto the internet via 17 videostreams.<br />
Pay €10 entrance, sign away your anonymity (masks are not<br />
allowed) and the girls are free. Add the theme rooms, pool,<br />
sauna, a new restaurant and live shows in the club downstairs<br />
for a unique experience. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. A<br />
Club 161 K-2, Praha 8, Sokolovská 161, MKřižíkova,<br />
tel. 284 81 02 62, 161@nightclub161.cz, www.club161.<br />
cz. A small residential house hosts from two (in the day) to<br />
12 lovely girls for your pleasure. Downstairs is a bar and<br />
pole for strip and lesbian shows, while upstairs you can take<br />
your pick of four rooms and/or a Jacuzzi. An S&M room has<br />
toys, PVC everything and whips if that’s your bag, baby. Free<br />
entrance and decent bar prices.QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 18:00 - 06:00. AL<br />
Club 600 Praha 3, Koněvova 66, tel. 269 76 128, www.<br />
c600.cz. All the fun of the fair from three in the afternoon to<br />
the very early hours of the morning. Always a good number of<br />
Czech girls on hand to provide you with whatever assistance<br />
and relaxation you may need. QOpen 15:00 - 05:00.<br />
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT<br />
K5 Relax Club J-5, Praha 2,<br />
Korunní 5, MNám. Míru, tel.<br />
224 25 05 05, www.k5relax.<br />
cz. The best club in Prague, and<br />
considered by experts as one of<br />
the top sex clubs anywhere in<br />
Central Europe. From friendly doormen to the hands-on<br />
management who will answer all of your questions in as<br />
many languages as you can imagine, to the lovely girls<br />
who will look after your every wish, this place has it all. A<br />
computerised payment system ensures that you will not<br />
be ripped off. We cannot recommend K5 more. QOpen<br />
16:00 - 04:00. A<br />
Darling Cabaret<br />
I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 32a, MMuzeum, www.kabaret.cz.<br />
One of the biggest and most popular of the adult clubs<br />
in town but it’s not cheap as it caters for the comparatively<br />
rich tourists. Head over to Václavské nám. and just try to miss<br />
it... you’ve probably seen and been photographed next to their<br />
limo too. Watch cabaret, lesbian shows, Thai Fire shows and<br />
table dancing courtesy of 150-200 girls a night. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 05:00, Tue 20:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.<br />
Desire Cabaret<br />
I-5, Praha 1, V Jámě 8, MMůstek, tel. 296 338 539,<br />
info@desire-cabaret.cz, www.desire-cabaret.cz.<br />
Centrally located night club with all the usual attractions,<br />
including erotic dancers, striptease, lesbian shows and full<br />
service massage. Popular with visitors, pay them a visit and<br />
you will discover why.<br />
April - May 2007<br />
73
74<br />
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Escade I-7, Praha 4, Křesomyslova 5, tel. 241 40 98<br />
88, www.escade.cz. Escade is home to thirty girls every<br />
night for your viewing (and more) pleasure. Get comfortable<br />
in the sofa-laden bar before taking your pick of one of their<br />
spacious rooms, sauna or whirlpool. The usual strip and erotic<br />
shows are crowd pleasers, and Escade also offers soft S&M,<br />
services for couple, special private arrangements and an<br />
escort service.Q Open 24 hrs. AP<br />
Extasy Cabaret Praha 3, Chlumova 13, tel. 222 78<br />
00 48/777 206 006, www.extasy.cz. Extasy offers a<br />
courtesy car from anywhere in Prague and a free welcome<br />
drink for punters. This is a well-known place for quality girls<br />
and imaginative shows, for example, Cheryl and her drill.<br />
Anyway, it’s all air conditioned, they have a bar with dance,<br />
erotic and lesbian shows, massage, plus various rooms and<br />
even a waterbed. Extasy also hosts film and photo shoots.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 06:00. A<br />
FKK Prague Budějovická 159, Jesenice, tel. 234 09 56<br />
66/608 82 40 23, www.fkk-prague.cz. A total experience<br />
from arrival, when your clothes and valuables enter a locker<br />
and you enter a world of pools, saunas and erotic shows<br />
featuring over 20 girls. Rooms have free porn, mirrors and<br />
themes. Admission is 500Kč with free buffet. FKK is 15km<br />
south of town; their taxi will fetch you for 200-300Kč. See the<br />
website for a discount coupon. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00. A<br />
Follow Me Praha 7, Na Šachtě 5, tel. 608 84 41 43,<br />
www.followme.cz. Follow me to a place where you can get<br />
away from it all and enjoy the delights of erotic girls there<br />
just to please you. And believe us, they will. Food, drinks,<br />
free transport but above all, hot chicks. Near the Výstaviště<br />
grounds in Holešovice. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.
76<br />
<strong>PRAGUE</strong> CASTLE<br />
The largest collection of wonders in the city, Prague castle<br />
is an amalgamation of architecture from different periods.<br />
From the almost pastoral serenity of St. George’s Basilica,<br />
to the awe-inspiring Gothic power of St. Vitus Cathedral,<br />
the castle has attractions for all - history and architecture<br />
plus marching soldiers and entertainment.<br />
Approach & Entry A-1, Praha 1, Hradčany, tel. 224<br />
37 33 68, www.hrad.cz. There’s an information centre in<br />
the second courtyard, where you can find out what time the<br />
changing of the guard takes place, buy tickets and get audio<br />
guides. There are four ways to approach the castle. By far<br />
the best way is to take tram N°22 or 23 to the Pohořelec stop,<br />
where you start with breathtaking views of Prague from Strahov<br />
Monastery; then walk down through beautiful Hradčanská<br />
district along Loretánská towards the main castle entrance<br />
on Hradčanské náměstí. You can skip the Hradčanská walk<br />
by getting off the tram earlier, at the Pražský hrad stop, from<br />
where you enter the second courtyard. Alternatively, walk up<br />
Nerudova and the steep hill from Malostranské náměstí. The<br />
worst approach is up the Staré zámecké schody steps near<br />
Malostranská metro station; these are best kept for the way<br />
down. Q Buildings & Info open 09:00 - 17:00. Courtyards<br />
(admission free) open 05:00 - 24:00. Castles gardens and<br />
Jeleni prikop 10:00 - 18:00. Admission to the Cathedral, Old<br />
King’s Palace, St. George’s, Powder Tower and Golden Lane:<br />
350Kč. Cathedral, Old King’s Palace & Golden Lane: 220Kč.<br />
St. Vitus Cathedral 100Kč. Reductions for families.<br />
Schwarzenberg Palace Hradčanské nám. 2. The most<br />
distinctive and largest of the buildings on the cobbled square<br />
sweeping into the castle is this palace with decorated bricks.<br />
Built between 1545 -1563, the building has been home to<br />
the Museum of Military History since 1945. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Sternberg Palace Hradčanské nám. 15. Sharing an entrance<br />
with the Archbishop’s Palace is the Šternberský palác<br />
from 1698, part of the National Gallery and home of the collection<br />
of European art, including Rubens and Rembrandt. In<br />
1991 thieves stole US$2.6 million worth of Picassos. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50/20Kč.<br />
First courtyard Pause at the castle gates to admire the<br />
soldiers’ uniforms (designed by the wardrobe designer of the<br />
film Amadeus), and hopefully see the changing of the guard.<br />
Then, move into the courtyard flanking the presidential rooms,<br />
which are not open to the public. These are numerous and<br />
include the Spanish Hall, once the venue for meetings of the<br />
Czechoslovak Communist Party.<br />
Second courtyard Reconstructed by Empress Maria<br />
Theresa, this courtyard acts as an intersection point for two of<br />
the entrances into the castle. Exit under the archway to reach<br />
the Stag Moat, Royal Gardens and trams N°22 & 23.<br />
St. Vitus Cathedral St. Vitus is the spiritual heart of the<br />
nation as the mausoleum of Bohemian kings and the city’s<br />
greatest landmark. Entrance is no longer free, 100Kč gets you<br />
across the threshold. A ticket gets you entrance into the royal<br />
crypt; another ticket grants access to the 287 steps to the<br />
top of the tower. Work on the present cathedral was started<br />
in 1344 but it wasn’t consecrated until 1929. Don’t miss the<br />
beautiful mosaic depicting the Last Judgement of Christ on<br />
the exterior of the cathedral.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Old Royal Palace One of the oldest and most impressive<br />
parts of the castle, the Old Royal Palace dates from 1135<br />
and was the seat of Bohemian princes. From the 13th to<br />
the 16th century it was the king’s palace. The magnificent<br />
Vladislav Hall was used for banquets, councils, coronations<br />
and even jousting. All presidents have been sworn in here, and<br />
this building was where the 1618 defenestration took place.<br />
The palace contains The Story of Prague Castle exhibition.<br />
Don’t forget to have a look at the Rampart Gardens below.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
St George’s Basilica The small Romanesque church lurking<br />
behind a Baroque facade in the courtyard behind St. Vitus.<br />
Now deconsecrated, it serves as a concert hall. In the chapel<br />
on the right of the entrance are the bones of St. Ludmila, the<br />
first Czech saint. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 50Kč.<br />
Golden Lane The phrase ‘picturesque street’ might have<br />
been invented to describe this tiny cobbled lane with its miniature<br />
workers’ cottages - now shops. It was on this street,<br />
or so legend has it, that 16th-century alchemists laboured to<br />
discover the Philosopher’s Stone to make gold from lead. Franz<br />
Kafka spent evenings at his sister’s house, N°22. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 17:00. Admission 50Kč.<br />
Daliborka Tower Built in 1496 and used as a prison till<br />
the end of 18th century, the tower stands on your left as<br />
you exit the Golden Lane. It is so named for its first prisoner,<br />
Dalibor of Kozojedy, whose story was told by Smetana in his<br />
1868 opera Dalibor. The underground cell is truly terrifying.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Royal Gardens & Stag Moat North of the castle walls<br />
are a succession of orderly and manicured gardens, laid<br />
out in 1534 and are home to the Ball Game Hall. The Stag<br />
Moat below the ramparts of the castle was reopened to the<br />
general public by Havel. Despite the name there hasn’t been<br />
a stag here since ravenous soldiers gobbled up the last of<br />
them by the 17th century. The gardens on the southern side<br />
of the castle can be entered via steps to the right of the main<br />
castle gate. The main garden on the southern side is the<br />
ramparts garden (Zahrada Na Valech), which overlooks Malá<br />
Strana. The Rampart Gardens are bordered to the west by<br />
the Paradise Garden (Rajská zahrada) and on the south to<br />
the Hartig Garden (Hartigovská zahrada), which surrounds the<br />
Music Pavilion (Hudební pavilon). In the 1920s and 30s the<br />
Rampart Gardens were redesigned by the Slovak architect<br />
Josip Plečnik. Unfortunately, his work was only seen for a<br />
brief time before they were closed to the spying masses,<br />
and again, Havel insisted that they be reopened. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Palace Gardens B-1, Valdštejnská 12. A large set of<br />
steeply terraced gardens leading up to the castle, punctuated<br />
with pavilions, galleries and fountains. The steep climb up to<br />
the castle is rewarded by fitness, some beautiful landscaping<br />
and stunning views of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Admission 80/40Kč, families 180Kč.<br />
Charles Bridge (Karlův most) C-3, Praha 1,<br />
MStaroměstská. Karlův most joins Staré Město (Old Town)<br />
and the Malá Strana (Little Quarter) and is one of the world’s<br />
most beautiful bridges. The bridge was built in 1357, but the<br />
figures of saints were added during the 17th century. They<br />
symbolise the confidence of the Catholic Austrian’s triumph<br />
over the Protestant Hussites. The bridge is thronged all day<br />
with tourists, while at night it offers wonderful views of the<br />
illuminated castle and Old Town. Go at dawn to be alone and<br />
witness the saints emerging from the mist.<br />
Municipal House (Obecní Dům) F-3, Praha 1, nám.<br />
Republiky 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 00 21 27, www.<br />
obecni-dum.cz. This magnificent building holds two restaurants,<br />
a super café, an American bar, a gallery, shop and classical<br />
music venue. Built between 1905 and 1910 in a stunning Art<br />
Nouveau style, the Municipal House has been painstakingly<br />
restored to its former glory. It was here that the Czechoslovakian<br />
state was signed into being on October 28, 1918. It was also<br />
here in 1989 that communist bureaucrats and revolution leaders<br />
of the Civic Forum discussed the velvet transfer of power and<br />
the state’s transformation to democracy.<br />
Tourist information<br />
Around Prague Information Centre E-3, Praha<br />
1, Celetná 14, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 49 17<br />
64/224 49 17 22, www.aroundprague.cz. Tickets,<br />
accommodation, sightseeing tours, guidebooks, maps<br />
and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.<br />
Prague Info E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 1,<br />
(Old Town Hall), MStaroměstské, tel. 236 00 25<br />
62, www.prague-info.cz. This excellent official tourist<br />
information centre provides vocal and written information<br />
in various languages from helpful and knowledgeable<br />
staff, plus tickets, excursions, and accommodation. For<br />
general information in English, Czech or German call tel.<br />
124 44. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Also at I-3, Praha hlavní nádraží & B-2, Praha 1, Malá<br />
Strana Tower, open 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
THE ESSENTIALS<br />
If you see nothing else, do not miss these sights.<br />
Obviously in this city that has been a destination for<br />
hundreds of years, there is much to see and do, and<br />
one of the most enjoyable aspects is just wandering<br />
around. Don’t forget to look up as the gilded spires<br />
are rightfully what Prague is renowned for. But<br />
keep an eye of the ground too - dog owners are not<br />
renowned for their cleaning-up ability.<br />
National Theatre (Národní divadlo) C-4, Národní 2,<br />
MNárodní třída, tel. 224 90 16 68. This lavish neo-Renaissance<br />
building on the bank of the Vltava, with its golden crown<br />
of chariot-driving women, is Prague’s National Theatre. The<br />
building was completed in 1881 and was almost immediately<br />
destroyed by fire. It reopened in 1883.<br />
Old Town Square (Staroměstská náměstí) E-3,<br />
Praha 1, MStaroměstská. The indisputable heart of<br />
Prague. This vast open space is flanked by a pleasing blend<br />
of carefully restored architectural styles: Gothic, Renaissance,<br />
Baroque and neo-styles. The square is notable for its<br />
constant hum of activity, day and night, and a long history<br />
as centre stage for so many of the city’s defining moments.<br />
Towering above the square, half-hidden behind a row of<br />
houses, is the fairy-turreted Týn Church. The centrepiece of<br />
the square is a memorial to Jan Hus. It was draped in swastikas<br />
by the Nazis and in black cloth to mourn the passing<br />
of the Prague Spring.<br />
Town Hall & Astronomical clock E-3, Praha 1,<br />
Staroměstské nám., MStaroměstská. The 14th century<br />
Town Hall complex features a tower with an astronomical<br />
clock, added in the 15th century. Every hour on the hour<br />
Jesus and his disciples lead a pageant that includes the<br />
allegorical figures of Death, the Turk, the Miser, the Fool and<br />
the Rooster. It sounds more impressive than it actually is.<br />
The climb or lift up the tower is rewarded by the stunning<br />
views. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Admission<br />
50/40/10Kč.<br />
Vyšehrad H-7, Praha 2, Soběslavova 1, MVyšehrad.<br />
The rocky cliff-top boasts Prague’s second castle. In the<br />
hearts and minds of many Czechs, Vyšehrad symbolises the<br />
birth of the Czech nation and is shrouded in legend and myth.<br />
This is apparently the spot where Princess Libuše stood and<br />
predicted the rise of a great city. Literally translated as ‘high<br />
castle’, it was probably founded in the middle of the 10th<br />
century. In 972 Prince Boleslav II built the royal mint here,<br />
and in 1085 Vratislav II selected it as his residence. Over the<br />
following centuries successive kings remodelled the palace<br />
and fortress, but moved their permanent home across the<br />
river. Within the fortress confines is the national cemetery<br />
(Vyšehradský hřbitov), which from the 1870s became the<br />
final resting place of many of the most famous Czech writers<br />
and composers, including Jan Neruda, Bedřich Smetana and<br />
Antonín Dvořák. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30.<br />
Wenceslas Square F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám.,<br />
MMůstek. Václavské náměstí is actually a boulevard<br />
running down from the National Museum and the equestrian<br />
statue of Saint Wenceslas to Můstek, formerly the site of of<br />
a city gate and drawbridge. This is where crowds traditionally<br />
come to demonstrate against their incompetent rulers, and<br />
this was where, in 1989, thousands gathered to shake their<br />
keys in celebration of the death of the Communist Party.<br />
Rows of shops, hotels (note the Art Nouveau glory of Hotel<br />
Europa) and nightclubs flank the pavements, and by night<br />
it can get a bit sleasy. Thankfully, there are plans to rid the<br />
square of cars, bury the highway in front of the museum in a<br />
tunnel and have tram N°11 make a come-back.<br />
April - May 2007<br />
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WHAT TO SEE<br />
Museums & Galleries<br />
Aviation Museum Praha 9, Mladoboleslavská, tel. 220<br />
20 75 13, www.militarymuseum.cz. A meticulous historical<br />
collection of the Czech airforce. 275 airplanes, ranging<br />
from MIG fighters to those alarming looking constructions of<br />
paper and wood that madmen once flew in.QOpen 10:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/15Kč.<br />
Cubism Museum F-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19, MNám.<br />
Republiky, tel. 224 21 17 46, www.ngprague.cz. The angular<br />
grace of 1920s cubism is apparent in the minimalist and<br />
abstract lines of the sculptures, paintings, furniture, ceramics<br />
and architecture on show at this small but delightful museum.<br />
Cubism in the Czech Republic permeated all aspects of design,<br />
applied arts and graphics, which is beautifully illustrated<br />
by the variety of exhibits. The House at the Black Madonna,<br />
which houses the museum, was built in 1911 as a department<br />
store and is itself a monument to Cubism. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100/50Kč.<br />
Walking Tours<br />
City Walks, tel. 608 20 09 12/222 24 45 31,<br />
www.praguer.com. For 450Kč you can take the four<br />
hour Insider Tour of the city including Staroměstská, Nové<br />
Město, Josefov, Malá Strana and Prague Castle. The tour<br />
also provides complimentary refreshments and a ride on<br />
the funicular. Tours begin daily at the statue at the top of<br />
Václavské nám. at 09:45 and 13:30.<br />
Daily Walks J-3, Praha 1, Na Florenci 20, tel. 281<br />
91 76 42/603 15 70 01, www.walks.cz. These cool<br />
cats will walk you around town for 300 - 1,000Kč, less if<br />
you are a student, and introduce you to various aspects of<br />
Prague. The meeting point is in front of the Astronomical<br />
Clock at the blue umbrella.<br />
Prague Travel Praha 2, Vinohradská 28, tel. 222<br />
51 60 64/777 07 07 84, fax 222 52 05 73, www.<br />
praguetravel.cz. Several themed umbrella-led walks starting<br />
at the Astronomical clock at various times; just look for<br />
the orange umbrella. Go for a short tour of the city centre or<br />
on the 6-hour megawalk. Prices from 200 - 1,000Kč.<br />
Real Tour I-5, tel. 602 45 94 81, www.walkingtoursprague.com.<br />
Englishman Paul and Czech Michal do the<br />
four-hour, 300Kč Real Tour of Prague starting at 12:30<br />
at the horse statue at the top of Václavské nám. The<br />
walk includes a break at a pub and ends at the castle.<br />
Pick-ups at 12:00 from the Traveller’s Hostel on Dlouhá<br />
and the Clown and Bard. Walks on Mon, Wed, Thu & Sat<br />
only. NB, no tours from 20 - 31 Oct.<br />
Velotrixi, www.velotrixi.com. These modern rickshaws<br />
are powered by young bilingual men with strong<br />
legs – although a small electric motor does kick in to<br />
help them up hills. From past successes since launching<br />
in Berlin in 1997, velotrixis are now transporting tourists<br />
and locals alike in 40 towns in 17 countries and now they<br />
are in Prague. These two passenger pseudo-vehicles<br />
run 45 minute routes round the tourist areas of town for<br />
600Kč. If you see an empty one, flag him down - short<br />
rides are available for a 200Kč minimum - or call free on<br />
800 88 08 41. The drivers have cell phones and will pick<br />
you up. It can get bumpy on the cobbles, but it’s a lazy,<br />
airy way to see the sights (and get your photo taken).<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Decorative Arts Museum (UpM) D-2, Praha 1, 17.<br />
listopadu 2, tel. 251 09 31 35, www.upm.cz. Basically,<br />
this is a museum of stuff. Its permanent exhibit showcases<br />
what normal articles (clocks, ceramics, glass, clothing, photographs,<br />
furniture) from the 19th-20th century. You won’t<br />
bump into philosopher Emmanuel Kant here; he believed that<br />
an esthetic object is only art if it has no use (he’s also long<br />
dead). Built in 1899 in commemoration of Franz Josef becoming<br />
emperor, the building itself is impressive, too. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 80/30Kč. A<br />
Historical Museum A-1, Praha 1, Pražský hrad, Jiřská<br />
3, tel. 257 53 59 79, www.nm.cz. Lobkovický Palac,<br />
in the castle area, dates back to the 9th century and the<br />
origins of the castle itself. The palace, which was restored<br />
during the Renaissance, now houses the Historical Museum,<br />
which, as its name implies, gives a detailed history of the<br />
country until 1848. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Admission 40Kč.<br />
Jewellery Collection C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 2b, tel.<br />
221 45 13 33. The Hergetova cihelna (brickyard building)<br />
near Karlův most, houses an exhibition from the collection<br />
of the Museum of Decorative Arts. This incredible array of<br />
pieces illustrating the the art of jewellery design from the 17th<br />
century includes items from Fabergé and Tiffany. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Kafka Museum C-2, Praha 1, Hergetova Cihelna,<br />
Cihelná 2b, tel. 257 53 55 07, www.kafkamuseum.cz.<br />
This museum illuminates the crucial relationship between the<br />
man and the city. It is divided into Existential Space where<br />
we see what Prague did with and to Kafka, and Imaginary<br />
Topography which looks at how Kafka creates enigmatic<br />
layers of his city through first editions and letters, diaries and<br />
manuscripts, and audiovisual pieces. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Admission 120/60Kč.<br />
Kampa Museum B-3, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2,<br />
tel. 257 28 61 47, www.museumkampa.cz. Sitting prettily<br />
on the west bank of the Vltava is this large collection of<br />
Central European modern art with exhibitions of works by<br />
painter František Kupka, cubist sculpture by Otto Gutfreund<br />
and the works of collage artist and poet Jiří Kolář. The cafe<br />
overlooking the river is fabulous. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Admission 100/50Kč.<br />
Lapidarium Praha 7, Výstaviště, tel. 233 37 56 36,<br />
www.nm.cz. A superb permanent exhibition of stone<br />
sculpture in the Czech lands from 11th to 19th century. In<br />
an international competition in 1995, the collection ranked<br />
among the ten most beautiful expositions in Europe. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission<br />
20/10Kč.<br />
Miniatures Museum Praha 1, Strahovské nádvoří<br />
11, tel. 233 35 23 71, www.muzeumminiatur.cz. This<br />
museum contains odd scribblings on grains of rice, the<br />
Lord’s Prayer written on one human hair, the world’s smallest<br />
book, and minitures of masterpieces. They have magnifying<br />
glasses. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 40Kč.<br />
Mucha Museum F-4, Praha 1, Panská 7, MMůstek,<br />
tel. 221 45 13 33, www.mucha.cz. A fitting tribute to<br />
artistic genius, whether you prefer his pastel seasons, the<br />
accusing desperation of the Slav Epic (his incomplete and<br />
huge magnum opus of which there are strangely no photos),<br />
or modern prints on everything from coasters to mousepads.<br />
Don’t miss the short biographical film. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Admission 120Kč.<br />
National Museum F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 68, tel.<br />
224 49 71 11, www.nm.cz. Permanent exhibitions include<br />
pre-historical, mineralogical, palaeontological, zoological,<br />
and there is a good collection of bronze statues of famous<br />
Czechs is in the pantheon of the building. One of the most<br />
celebrated buildings in Prague, but its exhibits are not nearly<br />
as impressive. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed every first Tue<br />
of the month. Admission 80/40Kč.<br />
Transport Museum Praha 6, Patočkova 4, MHradcanská,<br />
tel. 296 12 49 00, www.dp-praha.cz/en/hist-muz.<br />
htm. See beautifully restored classic trams and buses from<br />
the glory days of Prague trolleys in this converted depot. Read<br />
the history and see the uniforms, old advertising hoardings,<br />
maps and photographs. The historical tram (N°91, hourly<br />
from 12:00 - 18:00) leaves from here on a journey past the<br />
castle and Václavské náměsti. Q Open Sat, Sun and public<br />
holidays only 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Troja Chateau Praha 1, U trojského zámku 1, MNádraží<br />
Holešovice, tel. 283 85 16 14, www.citygalleryprague.<br />
cz. A grand 17th century summer palace built for Count<br />
Václav Vojtěch Šternberg, Troja has French gardens littered<br />
with Baroque sculptures right on the river below the Botanical<br />
gardens and next to the Zoo.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Mon. Admission 120/60Kč, gardens free.<br />
Veletržní Palace (National Gallery) I-1, Praha 7,<br />
Dukelských hrdinů 47, MVltavská, tel. 224 30 11 11,<br />
www.ngprague.cz. The stunning modernist Veletržní Palace<br />
houses the National Gallery’s collection of modern and<br />
contemporary art, including works by Klimt and Frank Gehry.<br />
The building is so big that they split entrance fees by how<br />
many of its three floors you wish to visit. Tram N°5,12,17 to<br />
Veletržní. The space also hosts concerts now. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 300Kč.<br />
Waxwork Museum H-4, Praha 1, 28. října 13, tel.<br />
224 22 98 52, www.waxmuseumprague.cz. Come and<br />
test your knowledge of famous Czechs or study the rostrum<br />
of world dictators and communist leaders - either way this<br />
is a wonderful opportunity to utilise your imagination to its<br />
fullest extent. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Also at Mostecká 18<br />
and Melantrichova 5. Admission 250/80Kč.<br />
Churches<br />
Bethlehem Chapel (Betlémská Kaple) D-3, Praha<br />
1, Betlémské náměstí, MStaroměstská. From 1402 to<br />
1412, Jan Hus preached at the Bethlehem Chapel, hence it’s<br />
significance for non-Catholics, but in 1622, the Jesuits took<br />
control of the chapel and Catholic mass became the service<br />
of the day. Then in 1786 it was levelled, only to be rebuilt<br />
(somewhat strangely) by the communists, who had preserved<br />
its architectural plans in 1950. Apparently, they were keen<br />
to exploit ithe chapel’s symbolism as an historic emblem of<br />
Czech national pride. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Church of Our Lady Victorious B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská<br />
9, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 36 46. This house of<br />
worship was built by German Lutherans between 1611-1615.<br />
To the right of the entrance is a commemorative site to the<br />
16th century Spanish nun, St. Therese of Avila, who along with<br />
friar John of the Cross, reformed the Carmelite order into what<br />
is known as the Discalced Carmelites. Further inside is the<br />
church’s claim to fame, a 45cm high wax statuette of Jesus<br />
known as the Infant Jesus of Prague, which is a pilgrimage<br />
site of sorts - for its historical and religious importance, and<br />
a couple of unnamed miracles that have been attached to<br />
it. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00.<br />
WHAT TO SEE<br />
Loreta A-1, Praha 1, Lorentánské nám. 7. One of the<br />
country’s most famous places of pilgrimage, this chapel is<br />
just a quick walk from the main entrance to the castle. Built<br />
between 1626-1720, this Baroque building contains, among<br />
other icons and objects, a painting of a bearded lady, ornate<br />
friezes, bejewelled icons and a high quota of chubby-cheeked<br />
cherubs. The small museum also houses a collection of<br />
diamond ostensories. Within the main chapel there is the<br />
brickwork supposedly from the original Loreto in Italy which<br />
was flown over from Italy by some well-meaning angels.<br />
Blasphemers take note - the split in the wall was supposedly<br />
caused by a thunderbolt fired off at one of your kind. Q Open<br />
09:15 - 12:15, 13:00 - 16:30. Admission 80/60Kč.<br />
Our Lady of Snow E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám,<br />
MMůstek. The towering Gothic torso hidden near Václavské<br />
náměstí was started off in 1347 by Charles IV as a Carmelite<br />
order monastery. Construction was stopped by the Hussites<br />
in 1419, and only the 34m-high choir of the planned 110mlong<br />
church was finished. The Franciscans renovated the ruins<br />
of the church in 1604, adding the magnificent Renaissance altar.<br />
The peaceful adjacent monastery gardens (Františkánská<br />
zahrada) are an excellent place to soak up the sun.<br />
Ss. Cyril and Methodius Church H-5, Praha 1,<br />
Resslova 9, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. 224 92 06 86. This<br />
Orthodox church was built in honour of St. Cyril and Methodius,<br />
the men responsible for the Slavonic alphabet. However, most<br />
people know about this church because of what happened<br />
here at 04:10 on the morning of June 18, 1942 when the<br />
Nazis had discovered that the seven Czech parachutists<br />
involved in the assassination of Reichsprotektor Heydrich<br />
were hiding in the crypt.Q Crypt open 10:00 - 17:00; Sun<br />
12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.<br />
St. Ignatius Church H-5, Praha 2, Ječná 2, MKarlovo<br />
náměstí, tel. 224 92 12 54. The construction of what<br />
was intended to be a basilica began in 1665 on these very<br />
grounds. In 1671 the church alongside Karlovo Square was<br />
finally completed and the large statue of Saint Ignatius, the<br />
founder of the Jesuit order, was placed on top. The church is<br />
still active and run by Jesuit monks.<br />
St. Nicholas Church B-2, Praha1, Malostranské nám.<br />
38, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 42 15. Construction of<br />
this Baroque pile began in 1673, but it would be nearly another<br />
80 years until the Jesuits completed it. Peer closely at the copper<br />
statue of St. Nicholas above the gold coated altar; the two<br />
statues below him are of St. Ignatius Loyola and St. Francis Xavier.<br />
The ceiling fresco depicts the apotheosis of St. Nicholas. Also<br />
of interest is the organ, which has 2500 pipes and 44 registers,<br />
and it was these very ivories that Mozart tinkled on his visit to<br />
Prague. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30. Admission 25/50Kč.<br />
Strahov Monastery Praha 1, Strahovské nádvoří 1, tel.<br />
233 10 77 18, www.strahovskyklaster.cz. The Strahov<br />
Monastery has stood on the approach to the castle since<br />
1140. Today, this Romanesque monastery houses various<br />
museums for religious arts and is home to the quite stunning<br />
central chapel. The Museum of Czech Literature (open<br />
09:00 - 12:00; 13:00 - 17:00, admission 50Kč), is housed<br />
in the monastic libraries. The Theological and Philosophical<br />
Halls are superb but can only be viewed from the doorways.<br />
Items available for closer inspection are manuscripts from<br />
the 14th century, a stuffed dodo, and a large collection of<br />
crabs, fish, shells and insects. The Strahov Gallery in the<br />
central courtyard (open 09:00 - 17:00, admission 35Kč)<br />
has one of the finest collections of monastic art in Central<br />
Europe. Trams N°22,23 to Pohořelec. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Admission 60/40Kč.<br />
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WHAT TO SEE<br />
Jewish Prague<br />
Prague’s Jewish community was one of the oldest in Europe,<br />
and rich in history, legend and tragedy. Here, the story goes,<br />
Rabbi Loew created the Golem nearly half a millennium ago.<br />
The community was confined to a ghetto until 1781 when<br />
Josef II issued the Edict of Tolerance, which permitted the<br />
free exercise of religion and the secularisation of education,<br />
science and art. The Jewish town is called Josefov<br />
to this day in his honour. From the 1880s, in the name of<br />
slum-clearing, most of Josefov was razed to the ground and<br />
only a few synagogues, the cemetery and the Josefov town<br />
hall remained. Wide new streets with grand Art Nouveau<br />
buildings emerged in place of the decrepit old tenement<br />
buildings. Later still, the Nazis all but annihilated Prague’s<br />
Jewish legacy and the post-war communists did little to<br />
alleviate the persecution - many of the remaining Jewish<br />
inhabitants chose to emigrate.<br />
Jewish Museum E-2, Praha 1, U Staré školy 1, tel.<br />
221 71 15 62, www.jewishmuseum.cz. The starting<br />
point for an exploration of Prague’s Jewish past and present.<br />
Unfortunately, the idea for a museum encompassing<br />
the Jewish Quarter is not new. The reason that the main<br />
buildings and cemetery in the Jewish Quarter are still intact,<br />
is that Hitler intended to transform the quarter into an epitaph<br />
to a vanished culture. The Jewish Museum supervises<br />
the Old Jewish Cemetery, the Old Ceremonial Hall, and the<br />
Pinkas, Klausen, Maisel and Spanish Synagogues, but not<br />
the Old New Synagogue, although you can buy a combined<br />
ticket for entry to all. You’ll need to go early to avoid the<br />
crowds. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat. Admission<br />
300/200Kč for all sights.<br />
Klausen Synagogue D-2, Praha 1, U Starého<br />
hřbitova 3A. A Judaic Baroque building which houses a<br />
permanent exhibition showing Jewish customs and traditions<br />
- and the occasional art exhibition. Next door is the<br />
Ceremonial Hall.<br />
Maisel Synagogue E-2, Praha 1, Maiselova 10. Maisel<br />
Synagogue is home to a large collection of silverware, previously<br />
confiscated from Jewish families by the Nazis. Their<br />
permanent exhibition, The History of Jews in Bohemia<br />
and Moravia, is definitely worth a visit.<br />
Pinkas Synagogue D-2, Praha 1, Široká 3. The walls<br />
inside Pinkas Synagogue are chillingly covered with the<br />
names of 77,297 Jewish Holocaust victims from Bohemia<br />
and Moravia. There is also a permanent exhibition of<br />
children’s drawings from Terezin concentration camp, drawn<br />
between 1942 and 1944.<br />
Old Jewish Cemetery D-2, Praha 1, Široká 2, (entrance<br />
from Pinkas Synagogue). From the 14th century<br />
until 1747, this was the final resting place for Prague’s<br />
Jewish community; some 12,000 graves are said to be piled<br />
one on top of the other. Oldest and most famous is that of<br />
Rabbi Loew, which is the grave with the most pebbles piled<br />
on top of it. To visit the cemetery, men will have to cover<br />
their heads; kippas are provided at the entrance.<br />
Spanish Synagogue E-2, Praha 1, Dušní 12. This<br />
neo-Moorish structure was built in 1868 to replace the<br />
previously demolished Old Synagogue. It is a beautiful building<br />
outside and in, with a domed ceiling, Islamic motifs and<br />
stained glass. Restored in 1998, the synagogue houses an<br />
exhibition on the history of Czech Jews.<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Old New Synagogue E-2, Praha 1, Červená 2. Of<br />
all the synagogues in Prague, this is perhaps the most<br />
important. It has stood here since the 13th century, and<br />
despite fires, floods and the Nazi occupation, remains today<br />
the functional, spiritual centre of the Jewish community.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 16:30, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat.<br />
Admission 200Kč.<br />
High Synagogue E-2, Praha 1, Červená 4. The High<br />
Synagogue is no longer open to the public. It is next to the<br />
Old New Synagogue - note the clock on the façade of the<br />
pink building next door; it has Hebrew numbers and turns<br />
counter-clockwise.<br />
Jubilee Synagogue I-4, Praha 1, Jeruzalémská<br />
1310/7, tel. 222 31 90 02. The newest, biggest, and<br />
arguably most spectacular of Prague’s synagogues, the<br />
Jubilee Synagogue is so called because it was decided upon<br />
on the 50th anniversary of the accession of Franz Joseph<br />
I. Built in pseudo-Moorish style and dedicated on 16 Sept<br />
1906 during the festival of Simhat Torah, the synagogue has<br />
a service on Sat at 09:00 and is open to visitors from 23<br />
Apr - 31 Oct from 13:00 - 17:00 (except Saturdays).<br />
New Jewish Cemetery Praha 3, Vinohradská,<br />
MŽelivského, tel. 272 74 18 93. Much larger and much<br />
less visited than the Old Town Cemetery. Founded in 1890,<br />
it has some impressive graves from the early 1900s. Franz<br />
Kafka is buried at grave N°137.<br />
Žižkov Jewish Cemetery Prague 3, Fibichova. Only<br />
a peaceful small corner remains of this Jewish cemetary<br />
at the foot of the TV tower. Originally a plague cemetary<br />
established well away from the city limits in 1680, 40,000<br />
people were buried here until 1890. Baroque, Empire and<br />
Romantic style tombstones survived the ages. Q Open<br />
Tue, Thu 09:00 - 13:00. Admission 20Kč.<br />
Prague’s Schindler Three trainloads of Jewish children<br />
were able to escape from German-occupied Prague in the<br />
spring and summer of 1939, before war broke out, thanks<br />
to the efforts of the man dubbed (post-Spielberg, of course)<br />
the Schindler of Prague. Bill Barazetti, together with a British<br />
stockbroker, arranged papers and transport for three<br />
trainloads of children - the Kindertransporte - to leave the<br />
city and travel via the Netherlands to safety in London. A<br />
fourth train left Prague on the eve of the war but it never<br />
reached the Netherlands and was not heard of again. In<br />
August 1939 Barazetti fled to Britain, but it was 50 years<br />
before his story became known.<br />
City tours<br />
Čedok F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 18, tel. 224 19 72 42,<br />
www.cedok.cz. The three and a half-hour city tour leaves<br />
daily at 09:30 from Nám. Republiky. Prices from 560Kč per<br />
person. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed<br />
Sun. A<br />
Best Tour Praha 7, U Uranie 17, tel. 284 81 41 41,<br />
www.besttour.cz. Their basic two-hour bus tour of the city<br />
costs 350Kč/person and leaves daily at 10:00, 14:00 and<br />
16:00 from F-4, Václavské nám. 27. Q 24 hours. A<br />
Bohemia Travel Service I-3, Praha 1, Revoluční 25,<br />
tel. 224 82 62 62, www.citytours.cz. The three-hour city<br />
tour costs 560Kč. Tours leave from Národní 38. You may<br />
request a free pick-up and drop-off at your hotel. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Cityrama Prague I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 21, tel.<br />
222 23 02 08, 602 218 469, fax 222 23 24 29,<br />
office@cityrama.cz, www.cityrama.cz. Explore the<br />
Golden Heart of Europe with various sightseeing tours in<br />
Prague and beyond. The City Tour (daily 09:30 and 14:00)<br />
joins boat tours, night explorations, excursions around the<br />
country and the region. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun<br />
08:00 - 14:00. A<br />
Martin Tour I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 61, tel. 224 21 24<br />
73, fax 224 23 97 52, www.martintour.cz. Their short<br />
city bus tour starts at 250Kč per person.<br />
Prague Passenger Shipping H-6, Praha 2, Rašínovo<br />
nábřeží, tel. 224 93 00 17/605 29 51 11, fax 224 93<br />
00 22, www.paroplavba.cz. All aboard the skylark for slow,<br />
salubrious trips either round the corner to the zoo or to see<br />
the wildlife in exotic locations such as Hamburg.<br />
Prague Sightseeing Tours I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská<br />
52, tel. 222 31 46 61/602 37 55 52, fax 222 31 80<br />
17, www.pstours.cz. City tours, boat trips and excursions.<br />
Q A<br />
Precious Legacy Tours D-2, Praha 1, Široká 9, tel.<br />
222 32 19 51, fax 222 32 19 54, www.legacytours.cz.<br />
Besides doing the run-of-the-mill city tours this company also<br />
organises an extensive array of Jewish history and culture<br />
tours in Prague and throughout Eastern Europe.<br />
Premiant City Tour H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 1, tel.<br />
296 24 60 70, www.premiant.cz. A variety of tours for<br />
a variety of tourists, there are combination bus and walking<br />
tours, brief tours, in-depth tours, the rest of the Czech<br />
Republic tours and many more. The cheapest is Brief Prague<br />
at 250Kč. Q A<br />
WHAT TO SEE<br />
Landmarks<br />
Funicular Railway A-4, Újezd tram stop. The funicular<br />
runs up Petřin Hill providing beautiful views of Prague and the<br />
castle. There are two restaurants sitting at the half-way point<br />
- there is a station there. Use regular 20Kč tickets. Trams run<br />
at 15 min intervals. QOpen 09:00 - 11:20.<br />
Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 1. The Klementinum<br />
dates to 1232. The building was used as a Jesuit college<br />
until 1773 when it was given to Charles University. An<br />
important astronomical observation tower was completed<br />
in 1722 and the Chapel of Mirrors was created in 1724.<br />
Today, the Klementinum houses the National Library, 12<br />
hard-to-find sundials, musical concerts, a unique view of<br />
Prague and daily tours of its Baroque architecture. See<br />
Culture & Events on page 10 for the venue’s classical<br />
music concerts.<br />
National Memorial K-3, Praha 3, Na Vrchu Žižkově.<br />
One of the largest equestrian statues in the world dominates<br />
the hill overlooking the north eastern district of Žižkov. The<br />
16.5 ton statue commemorates the Hussite hero, Jan Žižka.<br />
Behind the statue is the national mausoleum, built originally<br />
as a memorial to World War I Czechoslovak legions, and<br />
then taken over as the resting place for the great and the<br />
not very good Communists. The first working class president,<br />
Klement Gottwald, was pickled in slivovice and put on<br />
display here. Unfortunately the preservation was not wholly<br />
successful and the body started to putrefy from the feet up,<br />
shocking the odd visiting school party as their national hero<br />
literally started to fall apart before their very eyes. His body<br />
was returned to his family in 1990 and later buried in the<br />
cemetery in Olšanské.<br />
TV Tower K-4, Praha 3, Mahlerovy sady 1, MJiřího z<br />
Poděbrad, tel. 267 00 57 78, fax 222 72 40 14, www.<br />
tower.cz. This huge silver tower with funny-looking boxes<br />
attached to it was built between 1985 and 1992. Swift lifts<br />
whisk you to a fantastic panorama of the city, then descend<br />
a few floors to dine whilst contemplating the intricacies of<br />
vertigo. The scary black babies crawling all over the tower are<br />
an art installation by David Černy that became permanent.<br />
And now the tower is lit up in rather fetching hues of pink<br />
and purple. Try and miss it now... QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
Admission 150/75Kč.<br />
KLEMENTINUM<br />
The most beautiful view of<br />
Prague from the<br />
Astronomical Tower.<br />
The jewels of Baroque<br />
architecture in Baroque Library<br />
Hall and Mirror Chapel.<br />
Daily tours from 10:00<br />
Daily classical music concerts in the<br />
unique Mirror Chapel,<br />
except for Monday.<br />
For details and times for concerts,<br />
see the classical music programme<br />
on page 10.<br />
The Klementinum may be accessed from Karlova ulice,<br />
Krizovnicke namesti and Marianske namesti.<br />
Tickets, reservations and information are available in the lobby of the<br />
Mirror Chapel, by calling +420 222 220 879 and at www.klementinum.cz<br />
April - May 2007<br />
81
82 GETTING AROUND<br />
Ta xis<br />
Taxi drivers in Prague are notorious for trying it on with anyone.<br />
To see how bad it is, Prague’s mayor recently dressed<br />
up as an Italian tourist and hailed a taxi for a short ride, and<br />
was promptly overcharged five times the official rate. The<br />
starting rate should be about 25Kč, and 20Kč per kilometre<br />
after that (34Kč/25Kč respectively if you hail an honest one<br />
on the street). From central Prague, a ride to the airport has<br />
risen to about 600Kč; a short ride in the city centre should<br />
be about 130Kč, a ride to one of the surrounding districts<br />
up to 200Kč. There’s really no need to agree beforehand on<br />
a price (a good way to get ripped off) if you simply phone<br />
one of the reliable taxi companies listed below who will usually<br />
have a car ready under ten minutes. Else, hail only their<br />
cars if you must.<br />
AAA - Radiotaxi, tel. 222 33 32 22, www.aaa.<br />
radiotaxi.cz. The most reputable company in town. Ordering<br />
by SMS is possible at tel. 606 99 90 69 but requires<br />
preregistration.<br />
Airport Cars P.O.Box 100, 160 08 Praha 6, tel. 220<br />
11 38 92, www.airport-cars.cz. The silver cars with AVIS<br />
stickers waiting outside the airport arrivals hall charge 650Kč<br />
for a ride to the city centre. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.<br />
City Taxi Zelený Pruh 52, Praha 4, tel. 257 25 72 57,<br />
www.citytaxi.cz. Another of the most reputable firms.<br />
Ordering by SMS is possible at tel. 777 25 72 57 but without<br />
a Czech mobile number, they usually don’t send a cab. Now<br />
with a van for cargo transport.<br />
Halotaxi Praha 3, Vinohradská 160, tel. 244 11 44 11,<br />
www.halotaxi.cz.<br />
Prague Airport Shuttle, www.prague-airport-shuttle.<br />
com. A family-run business with some superlative customer<br />
feedback. They wait if your flight is delayed, they give info on<br />
sights and transport on the way into the city, and if there’s<br />
more than one of you, it’s a steal. 1-3 pax 650Kč, 4-5 pax<br />
950Kč, 6-8 pax 1,200Kč. Contact them if you need a limo<br />
or have more passengers.<br />
Sedop Praha 10, Švehlova 25, tel. 271 72 22 22, www.<br />
sedop.cz.<br />
Taxi Praha Praha 5, Vrchlického 9, tel. 222 11 10 00,<br />
www.taxi-praha.cz.<br />
Buses<br />
Florenc Bus Station J-3, Praha 8, Křižíkova 4, tel. 900<br />
14 44 44, www.idos.cz. Most international buses arrive<br />
at Prague’s Florenc bus station (Autobusové nádraží Praha<br />
Florenc, open 05:00 - 23:00), which is also the watering hole<br />
of several endemic species living solely on alcohol. For information<br />
on bus times inquire at window N°8 (open 06:00 - 21:00).<br />
Alternatively, use the handy computer in front of window N°8<br />
to search for your specific bus from the timetables online at<br />
the excellent www.idos.cz, which searches all forms of land<br />
transport. Window N°6 (open 05:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 19:30) sells tickets for the ever popular Czech National<br />
Express (Český Národní Expres) buses to Brno. The kiosk<br />
between window N°4 and 5 (open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00<br />
- 15:00, Sun 08:30 - 15:30) is an exchange office and also sells<br />
public transport tickets, maps and guides. The nearest ATM is<br />
at Florenc metro, next to the bus station.<br />
Capital Express Praha 7, U Výstaviště 3, tel. 220 87<br />
03 68, fax 220 87 02 49, www.capitalexpress.cz. Buses<br />
from Ostrava, Olomouc, Brno, Prague, Plzen to London. They<br />
also offer connecting UK National Express tickets. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Eurolines J-3, Praha 8, Křižíkova 6 (Florenc bus station),<br />
tel. 224 21 86 80, www.bei.cz. The main European bus<br />
operator. They also sell various travel passes. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Car rental<br />
Expect to pay from 450Kč/day for a car but this one will<br />
come emblazoned in advertising and if you’re not fussy<br />
about perceived image, the Škoda Fabia is a great and cheap<br />
drive. You must be over 18 to drive, and you must carry your<br />
driving licence, a vehicle registration card and an ownership<br />
certificate or rental agreement at all times. Most foreign<br />
driving licences are honoured, including those issued in<br />
Canada, USA and the EU. New Zealand and Australian drivers<br />
should have an international driving licence. In the city, the<br />
speed limit is 50km/h, while outside urban areas, the speed<br />
limit is 90km/h and for highways 130km/h. Seatbelts are<br />
compulsory in the front and back seats and lights must be<br />
switched on at all times.<br />
Alimex K-1, Praha 7, Tusarova 39, MVltavská, tel.<br />
233 35 00 01/800 15 01 70, www.alimexcr.cz. The<br />
best-value car rental company in Prague, with prompt, efficient<br />
service although the cheapest cars (by a third) come<br />
emblazoned with self advertising. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 17:00. Airport office, Parking C, tel. 220 11<br />
48 60, open 08:00 - 22:00.<br />
A-Rent Car I-5, Praha 1, V Celnici 8 (Millennium Plaza),<br />
tel. 224 21 15 87, fax 224 21 20 32, www.arentcar.cz.<br />
Excellent rental company, with competitive rates and city<br />
central pickups. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Airport office tel.<br />
220 11 43 70, open 07:00 - 19:00.<br />
Avis I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 46, tel. 221 85 12 25,<br />
fax 221 85 12 29, www.avis.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Budget E-1, Praha 1, nám. Curierových 5 (Intercontinental<br />
Hotel), tel. 296 63 09 95, fax 222 31 95 95,<br />
www.budget.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Airport office, tel.<br />
220 11 32 53, open 08:00 - 22:00. Reservation centre tel.<br />
235 32 57 13. A<br />
Czechocar CS F-3, Praha 4, 5. května 65 (Congress<br />
Centre), tel. 261 22 20 79, fax 261 17 24 32, www.<br />
czechocar.cz. One-way rental to certain foreign destinations<br />
is also possible. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 -<br />
16:00. Also at (F-3) Na příkopě 23, tel. 224 22 81 41, open<br />
10:00 - 18:00, closed Sat, Sun; Airport office tel. 220 11 34<br />
54, open 07:00 - 21:00.<br />
Dvorak Rent a Car F-1, Praha 1, Revoluční 25, tel. 224<br />
82 62 60, fax 224 82 62 61, www.dvorak-rentacar.cz.<br />
Limousines and chauffeurs also available. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office, tel. 220 11 36 76,<br />
open 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
Europcar E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 28, tel. 224 81 12<br />
90, fax 224 81 00 39, www.europcar.cz. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00. Airport office tel. 235 36 45 31, open 08:00<br />
- 22:00. A<br />
Hertz H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo nám. 15, tel. 225 34 50<br />
31, fax 225 34 50 39, www.hertz.cz. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 20:00. Also at Praha 6, Evropská 15<br />
(Diplomat Hotel), tel. 225 34 50 41,<br />
open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat & Sun.<br />
Airport office tel. 225 34 50 21, open<br />
08:00 - 22:00.<br />
Chauffeur CZ Praha 6, Kladenská<br />
36, tel. 602 36 81 82, fax 235 35 91<br />
15, www.chauffeur.cz. Rent a private<br />
chauffeur who is a “gracefully behaving,<br />
altogether winsome young man” for<br />
rides in and out of Prague. He’ll drive<br />
you to Lisbon for 90,000Kc.<br />
JS Car Praha 4, Psohlavců 1360,<br />
tel. 602 21 64 15, fax 241 72<br />
40 32, www.js-car.cz. Not much<br />
Englsih spoken, but service and price<br />
are excellent.<br />
National Car Rental Praha 5, Za<br />
Opravnou 1, tel. 224 92 37 19, fax<br />
224 91 30 51, www.nationalcar.<br />
cz. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. 220 11<br />
45 54, open 08:00 - 22:00, closed<br />
Sat & Sun.<br />
RentPoint Praha 4, Na Chodovci<br />
2457, tel. 267 28 68 22, fax 267 28<br />
68 19, www.rentpoint.cz. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 19:30, Sat 07:00 - 17:00,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Also at Praha 5,<br />
Bucharova 16, tel. 251 02 51 33, open<br />
08:00 - 16:30.<br />
Sixt J-3, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1 (Hilton<br />
Hotel), tel. 222 32 49 95, fax 224<br />
84 23 13, www.e-sixt.cz. Book<br />
online for some of good rental rates.<br />
And check out their even more budget<br />
version at www.sixti.com. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 22:00. Airport office tel. 220<br />
11 53 46, open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Smart Praha 4, Zelený pruh 95/97,<br />
tel. 724 32 23 22, www.e-autopujcovna.com.<br />
Get Smart cars and<br />
others for some good weekend deals.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun.<br />
West Car Praha 6, Veleslavínská<br />
17, tel. 235 36 53 07, fax 235 36 65<br />
52, www.westcarpraha.cz. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Trains<br />
Czech Railways Agency I-3,<br />
Praha 1, V Celnici 6, tel. 972 23<br />
39 30, www.cdtravel.cz. Buy your<br />
train tickets without negotiating the<br />
irritating windows at the stations. They<br />
can do it all here, with a smile and in<br />
English. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Also at<br />
Prague’s main railway stations.<br />
Wasteels J-4, Praha 2, Wilsonova<br />
80 (Hlavní nádraží), tel. 972 24 19<br />
54, www.wasteels.cz. Domestic and<br />
international train ticket sales with the<br />
same prices as Czech Railways, English<br />
spoken and ISIC cards accepted. On<br />
the upper level of the station. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Train schedule<br />
GETTING AROUND<br />
From Prague To Prague<br />
N° Dep. Arr. City N° Dep. Arr.<br />
EC178 06:16 11:12 BERLIN R60379 05:01 9:49<br />
EC176 08:16 13:12 BERLIN EC171 06:44 11:21+<br />
EC370 10:34+ 15:12 BERLIN EC173 08:46 13:21+<br />
EC174 12:34+ 17:12 BERLIN EC175 10:46 15:21+<br />
EC172 14:34+ 19:12 BERLIN EC177 12:46 17:21+<br />
EC170 16:34+ 21:12 BERLIN EC371 14:46 19:34<br />
R60378 18:46 23:42 BERLIN EC179 16:46 21:34<br />
R377 01:01 06:04 BRATISLAVA** SC134 05:41 09:30+<br />
EC 279 07:32 11:42 BRATISLAVA** EC174 08:25 12:25+<br />
R277 07:54 13:18 BRATISLAVA** EC170 12:25 16:25+<br />
EC171 11:35+ 15:42 BRATISLAVA** R276 14:44 20:00<br />
EC175 15:35+ 19:42 BRATISLAVA** R460 15:01 20:30<br />
SC135 17:20 22:13 BRATISLAVA** EC278 16:22 20:30<br />
SC135 18:26+ 22:13 BRATISLAVA** R336 20:07 03:29<br />
R375 23:02 04:22 BRATISLAVA** R376 22:44 03:29<br />
R421 23:02 04:30 BRATISLAVA** R374 23:44 06:05<br />
R377 23:28+ 06:04 BRATISLAVA**<br />
R761 23:37* 06:04 BRATISLAVA**<br />
EC279 07:32 10:15 BRNO R874 06:44 10:04<br />
SC75 10:26+ 12:49 BRNO EC174 09:50 12:25+<br />
EC171 11:35+ 14:15 BRNO R676 10:24 14:05<br />
Ex 571 16:37+ 19:15 BRNO SC74 17:07 19:30+<br />
SC 135 17:20 20:49 BRNO EC278 17:50 20:30<br />
EC 177 17:35+ 20:15 BRNO R684 18:24 22:00<br />
R683 17:54 21:34 BRNO EC70 20:20 22:58<br />
EC279 07:32 14:17 BUDAPEST EC170 09:50 16:25+<br />
EC171 11:35+ 18:17 BUDAPEST R460 12:00 20:30<br />
EC175 15:35+ 22:17 BUDAPEST EC278 13:50 20:30<br />
R375 23:02 07:39 BUDAPEST R336 17:00 03:29<br />
R377 23:28+ 09:58 BUDAPEST R733 20:01 06:05<br />
R202 04:17 06:47 DRESDEN EN353 05:59 08:55<br />
EC178 06:16 08:47 DRESDEN EN353 06:08 08:55<br />
EC176 08:16 10:47 DRESDEN R60379 07:08 09:49<br />
EC370 10:34+ 12:47 DRESDEN EC171 08:46 11:21+<br />
EC174 12:34+ 14:47 DRESDEN EC171 09:09 11:21+<br />
EC172 14:34+ 16:47 DRESDEN EC173 11:09 13:21+<br />
EC170 16:34+ 18:47 DRESDEN EC175 13:09 15:21+<br />
R60378 18:46 21:26 DRESDEN EC177 14:46 17:21+<br />
EN352 20:06 22:51 DRESDEN EC177 15:09 17:21+<br />
EN352 20:06 06:17 FRANKFURT EN353 23:38 08:55<br />
EX101 06:07 17:32 LJUBLJANA EX100 10:18 21:40<br />
EC109 14:07 21:06 KRAKOW EC108 07:10 13:54<br />
R201 20:55 05:47 KRAKOW R52 15:28 07:05<br />
R201 21:06 05:47 KRAKOW LIBEŇ R52 22:24 07:05<br />
R454 09:16 15:16 MUNICH R451 6:43 12:45<br />
R450 17:16 23:26 MUNICH R455 16:44 22:45<br />
EN362 20:06 06:21 MUNICH EN363 22:07 08:55<br />
R454 09:16 14:06 NÜRNBERG EN363 00:30 08:55<br />
R452 13:16 18:10 NÜRNBERG R453 11:40 16:45<br />
EN362 20:06 03:51 NÜRNBERG SP457 17:40 22:45<br />
R377 01:01 06:03 VIENNA EC370 06:08 10:25+<br />
EC71 05:01 09:28 VIENNA EC172 10:08 14:25+<br />
SC73 08:26+ 12:28 VIENNA SC72 13:33 17:30+<br />
SC75 10:26+ 14:28 VIENNA SC74 15:33 19:30+<br />
EC173 13:35+ 18:03 VIENNA EC70 18:33 22:58<br />
EC177 17:35+ 22:03 VIENNA R202 22:33 03:29<br />
R201 20:55 06:03 VIENNA R202 22:33 07:05<br />
R377 23:28+ 06:03 VIENNA<br />
EC107 10:07 18:35 WARSAW EC106 07:10 15:54<br />
R201 20:55 06:40 WARSAW R203 21:35 07:05<br />
R201 21:06 06:40 WARSAW LIBEŇ<br />
All trains to/from Hlavni nádraží station, except: + Holešovice n. * Smíchovská<br />
nádraží. ** All trains from Prague to Bratislava stop in Brno after approx 3 hours.<br />
Schedule supplied by České dráhy. More information: tel. 224 22 42 00, www.<br />
vlak.cz.<br />
April - May 2007<br />
83
84<br />
GETTING AROUND<br />
Hitchiking<br />
Town to Town H-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 9, tel. 222 07<br />
54 07, fax 224 21 63 74, www.spolujizda.cz. The cheapest<br />
way to travel around. The Town to Town agency brings<br />
drivers and passengers together. Go to the website, add<br />
your ride request (or offer) or just call to check the available<br />
destinations, dates and fixed prices, and hit the road. They<br />
speak Czech, English and German. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Parking<br />
Non stop parking I-7, Praha 2, Boženy Němcové, tel.<br />
603 96 34 40. From 60 Kč/day. Q Open 24hrs/day. Also<br />
at Praha 5, Lýskova, tel. 605 87 26 76.<br />
Travel agencies<br />
Čedok F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 18, tel. 800 11 21 12,<br />
www.cedok.cz. Bus and train tickets available with only a<br />
scowl rather than the growl that is offered at the station.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
AVE Travel J-4, Praha 5, Pod Barvířkou 6/747, tel. 251<br />
09 11 11, www.avetravel.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Condor H-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 45, tel. 225 00 02 25,<br />
www.condor.cz. Airline tickets. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Euroagentur Praha Praha 10, K Horkám 23, tel. 271 09<br />
08 31, fax 271 75 02 74, www.euroagentur.cz. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Fischer E-3, Praha 1, Provaznická 13, tel. 800 12 10<br />
10, www.fischer.cz. One of the largest operators in the<br />
Czech Republic. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
GTS International I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 33, tel.<br />
222 11 97 00, www.gtsint.cz. Flight and bus tickets, with<br />
special deals for students and under-24s. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat 9:00 - -4:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Mary’s Travel & Tourist Services J-5, Praha 2, Italská<br />
31, tel. 222 25 40 07, www.marys.cz. Mary’s staff can<br />
book accommodation and tours in seven languages. Specialised<br />
in the Czech republic and Hungary. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Prague Top Tour Praha 8, Pobřežní 21, tel. 222 31<br />
30 35, info@praguetoptour.cz, www.praguetoptour.cz.<br />
Nonstop number: 731 48 66 69. Q A<br />
Rainbow Travel Lidická 569, Roztoky u Prahy, tel.<br />
220 91 08 55, www.rainbowtravel.cz. For the lowdown<br />
on what’s what in Prague, especially Gay Prague, and the<br />
Czech Republic as a whole, contact Karel Ryšán. Gay-owned,<br />
gay-run and straight-friendly.<br />
TBS I-6, Praha 2, Koubkova 13, tel. 222 51 23 05, www.<br />
tbs.cz. Specialised in business and congress travel. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Wolf Travel International K-6, Praha 10, Dykova 31,<br />
tel. 222 51 24 25, fax 222 52 24 14, www.wolff-travel.<br />
com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.<br />
Airport<br />
Praha Ruzyně Airport, tel. 220 11 33 14, fax 235 35<br />
09 22, www.csl.cz. Prague’s airport is 20km from the city<br />
centre. Prague’s new Terminal North 2 will allow for at least<br />
4 million more passengers a year to travel into Prague with<br />
the ability to continue expansion. New bars, restaurants,<br />
shops and services ply their trade in this terminal which accommodates<br />
flights to and from Schengen countries (Austria,<br />
Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Italy,<br />
Greece, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Greece,<br />
Spain & Sweden).There is a left luggage facilty at the airport<br />
which doesn’t close and costs 60Kč per item per day.<br />
Airline offices<br />
Aeroflot E-2, Praha 1, Truhlářská 5, tel. 227 02 00<br />
20, fax 224 81 26 83, www.aeroflot.ru. QOpen 08:30<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
AeroSvit D-3, Praha 1, Husova 5, tel. 224 24 88 28,<br />
fax 224 24 85 14, www.aerosvit.com. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Air Europa F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 21, tel. 224 80 83 86,<br />
fax 224 80 83 88, www.aireuropa.com. Spanish based<br />
airline offering deals.<br />
Air France I-5, Praha 1, Jungmannova 34, tel. 233 09<br />
09 33, fax 233 09 09 03, www.airfrance.com. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office, tel. 220 11 37<br />
37, open 06:15 - 21:00.<br />
Alitalia E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 11, tel. 222 09 09<br />
19, fax 221 43 46 30, www.alitalia.cz. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office, tel. 220 11 45 04,<br />
open 06:30 - 18:30.<br />
Austrian Airlines F-2, Praha 6, Aviatická 12 - Ruzyně<br />
Airport, tel. 227 23 12 31, fax 224 28 10 43, www.<br />
austrianairlines.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
bmibaby, www.bmibaby.com. UK based airline with direct<br />
low cost flights to the UK.<br />
British Airways F-3, Praha 6, Ruzyně Airport (Terminal<br />
North), tel. 239 00 02 99, fax 239 00 02 88, www.britishairways.cz.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Czech Airlines (ČSA) I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 5, tel. 239<br />
00 70 07, fax 224 31 42 73, www.czech-airlines.com.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. Airport office tel. 220<br />
11 11 11, open 24hrs.<br />
Delta Airlines GSA D-4, Praha 1, Národní 32, tel. 224<br />
94 67 33, fax 224 94 67 31, www.delta-air.cz. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
EasyJet, tel. 0044 87 06 00 00 00, www.easyjet.com.<br />
Direct low cost flights to Basel, Dortmund, Bristol, London<br />
Gatwick & Stanstead, Newcastle and Nottingham.<br />
El Al I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 33, tel. 224 22 66<br />
24, fax 224 22 66 23, www.elal.tnet.cz. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Finnair J-5, Praha 2, Španělská 2, tel. 222 25 39 24, fax 222<br />
25 40 99, www.finnair.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. 220 11 38 40, open 06:00 - 19:00.<br />
flyglobespan, www.flyglobespan.com. Low cost airline<br />
with bases in England and Ireland and flights across Europe,<br />
Canada, the US and South Africa.<br />
Germanwings, tel. 800 14 22 87, www.germanwings.<br />
com. Direct budget flights from Prague to Cologne-Bonn and<br />
Stuttgart. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
KLM F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 21, tel. 233 09 09 33, fax<br />
224 21 69 06, www.klm.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Airport<br />
office tel. 220 11 41 48, open 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
GETTING AROUND<br />
LOT (Polish Airlines) I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 14, tel.<br />
222 31 75 24, fax 222 32 68 17, www.lot.com. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Lufthansa Praha 6, Aviatická 1048 - Ruzyně Airport,<br />
tel. 234 00 82 34, fax 234 00 82 95, www.lufthansa.<br />
cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Malév (Hungarian Airlines) F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě<br />
15, tel. 224 22 44 72, fax 224 22 44 73, www.malev.<br />
hu. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office<br />
tel. 220 11 44 87, open 08:00 - 17:00.<br />
SAS (Scandinavian Airlines) Praha 6, Aviatická 12<br />
- Airport Business Centrum, tel. 220 11 60 31, fax 220<br />
11 53 06, www.scandinavian.net. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
SkyEurope Praha 6, K letišti 1017, tel. 246 09<br />
60 96, www.skyeurope.com. Destinations (some<br />
seasonal) from Prague to Paris, Nice, Amsterdam, Rome,<br />
Naples, Milan, Barcelona, plus many in and out of Slovakia<br />
& Poland. New winter flights from Prague to Grenoble &<br />
Turin. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 22:00.<br />
Smart Wings Praha 6, K letišti 1068/30, tel. 900<br />
16 65 65, www.smartwings.net. Not so low cost flights<br />
to 19 European cities in Holland, Belgium, Denmark, Spain,<br />
Italy, France, Hungary, Greece, Cyprus and Bulgaria. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Swiss International Air Lines H-5, Praha 1, Lazarská<br />
8/13, tel. 221 99 04 44, fax 221 99 04 45, www.swiss.<br />
com. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office<br />
tel. 220 11 38 40, open 06:00 - 19:00.<br />
April - May 2007<br />
85
86<br />
GETTING AROUND<br />
Flight schedule Post<br />
From Prague To Prague<br />
Days Dep. Arr. Destination Days Dep. Arr.<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 08:40 AMSTERDAM (KLM) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:05 08:40<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:45 14:15 AMSTERDAM (KLM) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:45 14:20<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:05 18:40 AMSTERDAM (KLM) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:25 20:50<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 - 07:20 09:00 AMSTERDAM (SkyEurope) 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 09:30 11:00<br />
- - - - - - 7 13:55 15:35 AMSTERDAM (SkyEurope) - - - - - - 7 16:05 17:35<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:25 15:00 ATHENS (CSA) 1 2 - 4 5 6 - 05:05 06:45<br />
1 - 3 4 5 - 7 23:05 02:40 ATHENS (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:55 17:35<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:30 13:00 BARCELONA (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 07:00 10:45<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 19:10 22:55 BARCELONA (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:50 16:25<br />
1 - 3 - 5 6 - 11:50 14:20 BARCELONA (SkyEurope) 1 - 3 - 5 6 - 15:00 17:35<br />
- - 3 - 5 6 7 21:45 02:15 BEIRUT (CSA) 1 - - 4 - 6 7 03:10 06:05<br />
- 2 - 4 - 6 7 11:05 12:35 BELGRADE (JAT) - 2 - 4 - 6 7 08:40 10:15<br />
1 - 3 - 5 - - 12:20 13:50 BELGRADE (JAT) 1 - 3 - 5 - - 14:35 16:05<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 - 07:25 08:20 BERLIN (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 08:55 09:55<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 17:40 18:40 BERLIN (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 19:10 20:10<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:30 12:45 BRISTOL (easyJet) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:50 11:00<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:05 11:10 BUDAPEST (Malev) 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 10:40 11:50<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 17:05 18:05 BUDAPEST (Malev) - - - - 5 6 - 17:25 18:30<br />
1 - 3 4 5 - 7 11:40 14:35 BUCHAREST (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 06:50 07:45<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 19:10 22:05 BUCHAREST (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 15:15 16:10<br />
- - 3 - 5 - 7 21:25 02:10 CAIRO (CSA) 1 - - 4 - 6 - 03:05 06:20<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 - 07:20 08:45 COPENHAGEN (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 09:30 10:45<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:00 18:25 COPENHAGEN (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:10 20:30<br />
1 - 3 - - 6 - 18:55 03:35 DUBAI (CSA) - 2 - 4 - - 7 04:35 08:05<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:15 11:55 DUBLIN (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 07:15 10:45<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 19:15 20:55 DUBLIN (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:40 16:10<br />
1 - 3 4 5 - 7 16:45 20:20 ISTANBUL (Turkish Airlines) - 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:25 09:10<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 - 19:15 22:45 ISTANBUL (Turkish Airlines) 1 - 3 4 5 - 7 14:05 15:45<br />
1 - 3 - 5 - - 09:00 12:05 KYIV (Aerosvit) 1 - 3 - 5 - - 06:55 08:05<br />
1 - 3 4 5 6 7 11:25 14:25 KYIV (Aerosvit) - - - - - - 7 12:25 13:40<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 12:15 13:45 LJUBLJANA (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 06:40 08:10<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 21:10 22:40 LJUBLJANA (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 14:35 16:05<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:35 13:45 LONDON-Heathrow (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:35 10:30<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:45 20:05 LONDON-Heathrow (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:40 17:45<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:15 08:10 LONDON-STN (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:55 11:50<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:00 17:55 LONDON-STN (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:45 21:40<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - - 15:20 16:25 LONDON-GATWICK (easyJet) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 11:55 14:55<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - - 21:55 22:55 LONDON-GATWICK (easyJet) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 18:30 21:30<br />
- - - - - 6 - 11:40 12:45 LONDON-GATWICK (easyJet) - - - - - 6 - 08:10 11:10<br />
- - - - - 6 - 21:30 22:35 LONDON-GATWICK (easyJet) - - - - - 6 - 18:05 21:05<br />
- - - - - - 7 11:50 12:55 LONDON-GATWICK (easyJet) - - - - - - 7 08:20 11:20<br />
- - - - - - 7 21:40 22:45 LONDON-GATWICK (easyJet) - - - - - - 7 18:15 21:15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:45 14:00 MANCHESTER (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 07:30 10:40<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 20:45 21:55 MANCHESTER (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:45 17:55<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:15 19:30 MILAN (SkyEurope) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:00 21:55<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:35 15:00 MONTREAL (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:50 06:30<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:50 15:15 MONTREAL (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:20 09:50<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:10 13:50 MOSCOW (Aeroflot) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 10:00<br />
- - - - - - 7 08:10 10:10 NAPLES (SkyEurope) - - - - - - 7 10:50 13:00<br />
- - - 4 - - - 12:15 14:15 NAPLES (SkyEurope) - - - 4 - - - 14:55 17:05<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:35 15:50 NEW YORK-EWR (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:45 07:55<br />
- 2 - 4 - - 7 07:10 08:55 NICE (SkyEurope) - 2 - 4 - - 7 09:25 11:10<br />
1 - 3 - 5 6 - 07:00 08:50 PARIS (SkyEurope) 1 - 3 - 5 6 - 09:30 11:15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 17:35 19:25 PARIS (SkyEurope) 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 20:05 21:50<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 11:45 14:35 RIGA (CSA) 1 2 3 4 - 6 7 07:00 07:55<br />
1 2 3 - 5 6 7 19:05 21:55 RIGA (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 15:15 16:05<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:30 15:55 ST. PETERSBURG (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 67 16:40 17:15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:00 15:00 STOCKHOLM-Arlanda (CSA) 1 2 - 4 5 - - 08:25 10:25<br />
1 - 3 4 - - 7 19:05 21:05 STOCKHOLM-Arlanda (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:45 17:45<br />
1 - - 4 - 6 - 12:35 17:00 TORONTO (CSA) 1 - - 4 5 - 7 17:30 07:40<br />
1 - - 4 5 - 7 12:50 16:00 TORONTO (CSA) 1 - - 4 - 6 - 18:25 09:50<br />
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 11:50 14:40 VILNIUS (CSA) 1 2 - 4 5 6 7 07:00 07:45<br />
1 - 3 4 5 6 7 19:05 21:45 VILNIUS (CSA) 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 15:20 16:05<br />
Contact the airlines for full details. Be aware that life is inevitably a series of rapidly changing circumstances; therefore,<br />
we at Prague In Your Pocket decline any responsibility for changes to flight times.<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Postage stamps, phone cards and transport tickets can<br />
also be purchased at Tabáks (news stands). Stamps for<br />
post cards & letters (up to 20g) for Czech Rep, EU & US<br />
cost 7.50Kč, 10Kč, 12Kč respectively.<br />
Main Post Office F-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská 14, tel.<br />
800 10 44 10, www.cpost.cz. Take a numbered ticket<br />
(if you just need to mail something, it’s N°1 you want) for<br />
the services you require and don’t miss your turn. QOpen<br />
02:00 - 24:00. Also at A-4, Praha 5, Újezd 15, tel. 257 32<br />
27 92, open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun; D-2, Praha 1,<br />
Kaprova 12, tel. 224 81 15 87, open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun & J-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 15, tel. 224 21 97 14,<br />
open 13:00 - 24:00.<br />
Express mail<br />
Česky Kurýr Interkurýr J-4, Praha 8, Libeňská<br />
183/29, tel. 261 21 60 00, www.ceskykuryr.cz. Courier<br />
service of the railway company. Q Open 24hrs.<br />
DHL Praha 6, Aviatická 1048/12, tel. 800 10 30 00/220<br />
30 01 11, fax 221 51 24 24, www.dhl.cz. QOpen 07:00 -<br />
18:45. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at F-4 Express Centre, Praha 1,<br />
Václavské nám. 47, open 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00<br />
& Praha 1, Klimentská 46, open 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
FedEx Praha 4, Olbrachtova 1, tel. 800 13 33 39/244<br />
00 22 00, fax 241 44 00 24, fedexpraha@fedex.cz,<br />
www.fedex.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
TNT Express Worldwide Praha 5, Na Radosti 413<br />
(Zličín Business Centre), tel. 257 08 33 33/257 08 38<br />
88, fax 257 08 33 09, customer.service.prg@tnt.com,<br />
www.tnt.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
UPS Praha 6, K letišti 57/1049, tel. 800 18 11 11, fax<br />
233 00 33 03, callcentre@europe.ups.com, www.ups.<br />
com. QOpen 07:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Telephone<br />
All fixed-line telephone numbers in Prague begin with a 2,<br />
and have nine digits. The numbers you will find is this guide<br />
can be dialled from abroad simply by placing the Czech<br />
country code (+420) in front of them. Czech mobile numbers<br />
begin with a 6 or a 7, which must always be dialled.<br />
When dialling abroad from the Czech Republic, you need<br />
to dial 00, then the country code, the city code and then<br />
the subscriber’s number.<br />
You can phone abroad directly from any phone box, though<br />
you will need a phone card. There are various types on<br />
sale, all available at newsstands and cigarette kiosks.<br />
O2 Karta X plus, tel. 800 19 01 61, www.cz.o2.<br />
com. The pre-paid cards can be bought in most kiosks in<br />
300, 500, 750 and 1,000Kč denominations. To call, call<br />
the system access number, e.g. 822 11 22 44 followed<br />
by the 14-digit card number then dial the number of your<br />
subscriber.<br />
O2 NetCall *55 Praha 4, Vyskočilova 1442/1b, tel.<br />
800 12 34 56, www.cz.o2.com. Save up to 60% on calls<br />
to the USA and around the world via the internet from your<br />
O2 telephone. Simply dial *55 instead of the 00 international<br />
access code.<br />
Smartcall J-6, Praha 2, Boženy Němcové 5, tel. 296 18<br />
18 18/800 31 73 17, fax 296 18 77 80, info@advantel.<br />
cz, www.smartcall.cz. Pre-paid phone card worth 300 and<br />
500Kč. Calling during off-peak hours is slightly cheaper for<br />
certain countries. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
T-Mobile I-Call, tel. 603 60 36 03, www.t-mobile.<br />
cz. The T-Mobile I-Call service provides you with the most<br />
advantageous minute rates 24 hours a day for calls from the<br />
MAIL & PHONES<br />
Czech Republic to selected countries around the world through<br />
data networks. The T-Mobile I-Call service is available for all<br />
T-Mobile mobile telephones.<br />
Telecard, tel. 822 44 44 45, www.telecard.cz. Up to<br />
70% discount on calling internationally. Buy your Telecard<br />
(150 or 300Kč), scratch the silver panel to reveal your PIN<br />
code, dial 822 44 44 45, then your PIN then the subscriber<br />
number you wish to call. Billing is by the second and mobile<br />
phones can also be called. To make a call from outside the<br />
Czech Republic, dial the toll free number, then 4848, then the<br />
PIN followed by the subscriber number.<br />
Mobile phones<br />
There are three main service providers, all offering basically<br />
the same billing or pre-paid services and price. Vodafone<br />
remains the cheapest, but it also has less coverage<br />
around the country. If you are here for a short time, pick up<br />
the combination SIM and pre-paid card for your phone.<br />
T-Mobile F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 23, info@t-mobile.<br />
cz, www.t-mobile.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -<br />
18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Telefónica O2 I-5, Praha 1, Václavské náměstí 813/57,<br />
tel. 224 22 17 42, www.cz.o2.com. Eurotel has a new<br />
name and a massive advertising campaign. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Vodafone I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 47, tel. 800<br />
77 77 77, www.vodafone.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat<br />
09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Internet cafés<br />
Bohemia Bagel A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 16, MMalostranská,<br />
tel. 257 31 06 94, www.bohemiabagel.cz. Dozens<br />
of terminals and you can also call abroad using its special<br />
system which is dirt cheap, although its high speed access is<br />
not. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Also on E-2, Masná 2. G<br />
Cyber Laundromat J-5, Praha 2, Korunní 14, MNám.<br />
Míru, tel. 222 51 01 80, An internet café and laudromat in<br />
one. The connection may be expensive (30 Kč/15mins) but<br />
at least you come out with clean clothes. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
20:00. Washers and dryers - 65Kč each.<br />
Káva Káva Káva G-6, Praha 5, Lidická 42, MAnděl, tel.<br />
224 22 88 62. A café with internet in the back (free 15 minutes<br />
with purchase), and Wi-Fi all over. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Also at (E-4), Národní 31. AW<br />
NoD F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224<br />
82 63 30, www.roxy.cz/nod. An art gallery, music, film and<br />
four terminals of free internet. QOpen 10:00 - 01:0.<br />
Internet service providers<br />
Czech On Line I-3, Praha 3, U nákladového nádraží 8,<br />
tel. 800 88 08 00, info@col.cz, www.col.cz. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Globe Praha 6, Pláničkova 1, tel. 603 14 56 23/235 36<br />
50 00, fax 235 36 50 09, info@globe.cz, www.globe.cz.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
GTS Novera Praha 4, Hvězdova 33, tel. 800 31 31<br />
31/296 15 71 11, fax 296 15 73 33, info@gtsgroup.cz,<br />
www.gts.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
UPC Praha 3, U nákladového nádraží 6, tel. 241 00 51<br />
00, fax 241 00 51 05, www.upc.cz. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
The Prague<br />
telephone code is +420<br />
April - May 2007<br />
87
88 SHOPPING<br />
Crystal, unique art and beautifully made wooden toys and<br />
objets are the true Prague souvenirs, but the tacky T-shirt<br />
trade is one of the most lucrative. The totally cheesy<br />
Czech Me Out T-shirts and communist slogans tend to<br />
hide a few quality items, such as Mucha, Kafka and others.<br />
Competition, even on Charles Bridge, means prices<br />
are fairly even, but the more tourist areas tend to have<br />
higher prices.<br />
Books<br />
Academia F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 34, tel. 224<br />
22 35 11, www.academia.cz. Educational texts, language<br />
books, maps and guides, with a café upstairs in the professional<br />
department. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00<br />
- 20:00. Also at D-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 7, tel. 224 24 05<br />
47; Praha 1, Na Florenci 3, tel. 224 81 46 21. A<br />
Anagram F-2, Praha 1, Týn 4, tel. 224 89 57 37, www.<br />
anagram.cz. The owner personally selects all the stock at<br />
this excellent bookshop, and he will order any book you need.<br />
It also has second-hand books. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 18:00. Also at J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 18.<br />
Big Ben F-2, Praha 1, Malá Štupartská 5, tel. 224 82<br />
65 65, fax 224 82 65 59, www.bigbenbookshop.com.<br />
English-language books only are sold here, with standard<br />
guides on Prague, plus several shelves of bestsellers, childrens<br />
books, fiction, non-fiction and travel books. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A<br />
Fra J-6, Praha 2, Šafříkova 15, MNám. Míru, tel. 222 52<br />
08 51, www.fra.cz. New café and bookshop with a small<br />
selection of English-language second hand books, bilingual<br />
CZ-EN novels and a wide selection of excellently priced Moleskines.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.<br />
Globe H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 6, tel. 224 93 42 03,<br />
www.globebookstore.cz. English books, second-hand<br />
books, and magazines, internet access, café and restaurant.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Kanzelsberger E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 4, tel.<br />
224 21 92 14, www.kanzelsberger.cz. Bookworm heaven:<br />
four floors of fiction and non-fiction. Helpful staff. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Kiwi H-4, Praha 1, Jungmannova 23, tel. 224 94 84<br />
55, www.kiwick.cz. Good collection of maps and foreignlanguage<br />
travel guides (all titles are online too); beware that<br />
some books are not the latest edition. If you get inspired,<br />
there’s an in-house travel agent.<br />
Palác Knih Luxor F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 41, tel.<br />
221 11 13 64, www.neoluxor.cz. Large shop with a good<br />
selection of foreign-language books. The 28. Října 7 shop has<br />
a good collection of translations from Czech upstairs. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Also<br />
at (E-4) 28. Října 7 and (F-3) Celetná 34. A<br />
Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymska 12, MNám.<br />
Míru, tel. 271 74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thousands<br />
of handpicked new and used English titles, earnest poetry<br />
and prose readings and performance, newspapers, chess<br />
and backgammon plus café. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also<br />
at Praha 1, U Luzickeho seminare 10. Tel. 257 53 18 94.<br />
Open 11:00 - 21:00.<br />
Department stores<br />
Bílá Labuť J-3, Praha 1, Na poříčí 23, tel. 224 81 13 64,<br />
www.bilalabut.cz. An ode to the past, historians and lovers<br />
of kitsch are highly recommended to spend an afternoon here<br />
getting lost in the loot. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00<br />
- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A<br />
Dětský Dům F-3, Praha 1, Na příkopě 15, tel. 272 14<br />
24 01. Megastore offering a bit of everything for children.<br />
QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Debenhams F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21, tel. 221<br />
01 50 57, www.debenhams.cz. The English department<br />
store has made its mark. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Kotva F-2, Praha 1, nám. Republiky 8, tel. 224 80 11<br />
11, www.od-kotva.cz. A variety of well-priced shops and<br />
services, and a special area for children, all in the ugliest<br />
building in central Prague. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00<br />
- 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AL<br />
Tesco D-4, Praha 1, Národní 26, MNárodní třída, tel.<br />
222 00 31 11, www.tesco-shop.cz. Britain’s best store<br />
with a supermarket in the basement. Delivery service<br />
is also available, check the website for details. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Supermarket open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Tesco II Praha 5, Radlická 1, tel. 257 28 41 11, www.<br />
itesco.cz. Fantastic hypermarket (that was Carrefour) with<br />
wide aisles, helpful staff and a full range of goods unavailable<br />
anywhere else in the city. Well worth a trip. QOpen 07:00<br />
- 24:00. Also in the Stodůlky Shopping Centre. A<br />
Fashion<br />
Diesel D-4, Praha 1, Národní 17, tel. 224 22 24 44.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A<br />
H & M I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 19, tel. 234 65 60<br />
51, www.hm.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Also at Praha 5,<br />
Plzeňská 8 (Nový Smíchov Shopping centre). A<br />
Levi’s I-5, Praha 1, Školská 38, tel. 222 23 06 81. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Marks & Spencer I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 36,<br />
tel. 224 23 75 03, www.marksandspencer.com. One of<br />
the outposts of the British Empire, with a small but refined<br />
food department. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sun 10:30 - 19:00. A<br />
New Yorker E-4, Praha 1, Na Můstku 9, www.newyorker.cz.<br />
The German retail giant opens its largest store in<br />
Europe right here. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A<br />
The North Face E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannova 30,<br />
MMůstek, tel. 224 94 68 93, www.thenorthface.com.<br />
Clothing and gear for the upwardly mobile mountaineer. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Vintage E-3, Praha 1, Michalská 18, MMůstek. Very<br />
cool spot for picking those vintage and retro new and used<br />
clothes, bags and other accessories. Cheap it isn’t, hip it is.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Also at Retro,<br />
E-4, Praha 1, Perlová 4. A<br />
Zara F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 15, tel. 224 23 98 61,<br />
www.zara.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Flowers<br />
Annie’s Tulip E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 8, MStaroměstská,<br />
tel. 222 31 10 13, www.anniestulip.cz. Beautiful and<br />
exotic flower arranger for hotels, restaurants, embassies,<br />
weddings and you too. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Bohemia Flowers I-4, Praha 1, Opletalova 22, tel.<br />
224 21 30 33, www.flowers.cz. Global delivery to make<br />
someone very happy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00<br />
- 14:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Květiny Winkler I-3, Praha 1, Na poříčí 6, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 224 23 81 41/800 11 77 55, www.ekytky.<br />
cz. Flower delivery for Prague. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Mário Wild Flowers J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 23,<br />
MMuzeum, tel. 222 25 03 10, www.wildflowers.cz.<br />
More than a florist, Mario Wild designs interiors for hotels and<br />
restaurants around Prague. His gallery contains accessories<br />
and fabulous organic features, a.k.a. cool plants in unique<br />
settings. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.<br />
Gifts<br />
Botanicus E-3, Praha 1, Týnský dvůr 3, tel. 224 89 54<br />
46, www.botanicus.cz. Smelly things, mostly made of wood<br />
that nobody needs but everybody wants. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 18:30. Also at E-3, Praha 1, Michalská 2, tel. 224 21 29 77.<br />
Open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Czech Tradition E-3, Praha 1, Melantrichova 17, tel.<br />
221 63 24 80, www.czech-tradition.com. Traditional<br />
Czech gifts in shops all around the main tourist areas. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 18:00. Also at D-3, Praha 1, Řetězová 10, tel. 221 63<br />
24 80, open 09:00 - 18:00. A<br />
Glass<br />
Artel Praha 3, Vinohradská 164, tel. 271 73 21 61,<br />
www.artelglass.com. Mouth-blown and hand-etched glassware<br />
designed by Karen Feldman. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Arzenal D-2, Praha 1, Valentinská 11, tel. 224 81 40 99,<br />
www.arzenal.cz. Glass from Boris Šípek, the leading Czech<br />
architect and designer. The shop is also a Thai restaurant,<br />
Arzenal, which is strange, but somehow pleasing. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Cristallino F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 12, tel. 224 22 51<br />
73, www.cristallino.cz. Prague’s largest assortment of<br />
Bohemia crystal, glass, porcelan and jewellery in a range of<br />
designs from classic patterns to modern glassware from top<br />
Czech designers. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. A<br />
Moser F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 12, tel. 224 21 12 93,<br />
www.moser-glass.com. Moser is the oldest Czech glass<br />
manufacturer and it’s been in operation since 1857. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Also at E-3, Praha<br />
1, Malé nám. 2, tel. 221 61 15 20. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Sat,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A<br />
Regena D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 44, tel. 224 22 05 60,<br />
www.regena.cz. Lots of things for clumsy people to break<br />
- crystal glass, porcelain, jewellery, chandeliers and glasswork.<br />
Shipping service available. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Shopping centres<br />
Černá růže F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 12, MMůstek, tel.<br />
221 01 41 11, www.cernaruze.cz. All the right shops and<br />
some fine extras in this larger-than-it-appears centre. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.<br />
Centrum Černý Most Praha 9, Chlumecká 6, MČerný<br />
Most, tel. 281 91 81 00, www.centrumcernymost.cz.<br />
Bata, Citizen centrum, DM Drogerie markt, Eiffel Optic, Jasmin,<br />
Kenvelo, McDonald’s, Mustang, Ethno and many more.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Letňany Praha 9, Veselská 663, MNádraží Holešovice,<br />
tel. 284 05 11 11, www.obchodnicentrumletnany.cz.<br />
One of Prague’s biggest and best, with local and international<br />
brand names for retail, food and entertainment. Q Shopping<br />
Centre 09:00 - 21:00, hypermarket 24hrs.<br />
Metropole Zličín Praha 5, Řevnická 1, MZličín, tel. 257<br />
11 15 11, www.metropole.cz. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.<br />
Myslbek F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 21, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 224 23 95 50, www.myslbek.com. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:30.<br />
Nový Smíchov Praha 5, Plzeňská 8, MAnděl, tel. 257<br />
28 41 11, info@novysmichovoc.cz. Home to Carrefour and<br />
more. The games arcade is fabulous and Palace Cinemas are<br />
on the top floor. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Palác Flóra Praha 3, Vinohradská 151, MFlóra, tel. 255<br />
74 17 00, www.palacflora.cz. New and very chic shopping<br />
centre, with over 120 shops, as well as restaurants, cafés,<br />
a cinema multiplex and an IMAX theatre. All in the centre of<br />
Prague. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.<br />
SHOPPING<br />
Shopping Park Praha Praha 5, Skandinávská 1 - 27,<br />
MZličín. IKEA, Tesco, GigaSport, DatArt megastore, La Halle,<br />
Kenvelo, Computer City, Bata, Grand Optical, McDonald’s,<br />
Segafredo Espresso. Pick up the shoppping centre’s bus from<br />
outside Zličin metro station. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Slovanský Dům F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 22, MNám.<br />
Republiky, tel. 221 45 14 00, www.slovanskydum.cz.<br />
High end retail shops, a multiplex cinema and Kogo restaurant<br />
attract the right people at this central shopping centre.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Vinohradský Pavilon J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 50,<br />
MNám. Míru, tel. 222 09 71 11, www.pavilon.cz. After<br />
a lengthy refurbishment, nothing seems to have changed<br />
inside this old market building. There’s an Albert supermarket,<br />
excellent UNICEF shop, dry cleaning, key cutting, café with<br />
bagels, and a few vacant stores. QOpen 09:30 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Speciality shops<br />
Šatna D-4, Praha 1, Konviktská 13, MMůstek. Meaning<br />
cloakroom in English, this retro second hand store has<br />
some gems on their rails - Levi’s, clubbing outfits to knock<br />
‘em dead and more. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Kratochvílovci E-2, Praha 1, Týnská 15, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 222 31 25 16, www.kratochvilovci.cz. Hankering<br />
for some Maker’s Mark, Grey Goose or Pimm’s No. 1? How<br />
about just about every whiskey from Scotland and Ireland,<br />
throw in Cachaca, Pisco and cigars and you got this new, very<br />
fine outlet. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Modernista D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské náměstí 169/5a,<br />
MNárodní třída, tel. 602 30 56 33, www.modernista.cz.<br />
For the retro furniture hunters out there. Beautiful but expensive<br />
collection of modernist, cubist and avant-garde furniture,<br />
objets and lighting. Open by appointment also. QOpen 14:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Naoko I-3, Praha 1, Revoluční 24, MNám. Republiky,<br />
tel. 222 31 25 67, www.naoko.cz. Excellent selection of<br />
design products that you may not need, but which look fantastic.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Qubus F-2, Praha 1, Rámová 3, MNám. Republiky, tel.<br />
222 31 31 51, www.qubus.com. Fabulous design shop off<br />
Dlouhá selling hip goods from bizarre clocks to ceramic Wellington<br />
boots. They are also the Czech distributor of funky-ass<br />
Lomo cameras. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Terryho Ponožky I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 41, MMůstek,<br />
tel. 224 94 68 29, www.terryhoponozky.cz. Inside the<br />
Kino Světozor box office lobby is this cool shop for all things<br />
movie-manic: souvenir-tastic Czech language film posters,<br />
cool T-shirts, DVDs and books. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
April - May 2007<br />
89
90 BUSINESS DIRECTORY<br />
Chambers of commerce<br />
American Chamber of Commerce E-1, Praha 1,<br />
Dušní 10, tel. 222 32 94 30.<br />
British Chamber of Commerce K-3, Praha 8,<br />
Pobřežní 3, tel. 224 83 51 61.<br />
Czech - Belgian - Luxenbourg Chamber of Commerce<br />
F-3, Praha 2, Anglická 20, tel. 261 35 20 90.<br />
Czech - Canadian Chamber of Commerce F-3,<br />
Praha 1, Klimentská 46, tel. 225 00 03 45.<br />
Czech - German Chamber of Commerce H-5, Praha<br />
1, Václavské nám. 40, tel. 224 22 12 00.<br />
Economic Chamber of the Czech Republic K-4,<br />
Praha 9, Freyova 27, tel. 296 64 61 11.<br />
French - Czech Chamber of Commerce E-3, Praha<br />
8, Pobřežní 3, tel. 224 83 30 90.<br />
Netherlands Chamber of Commerce J-5, Praha 5,<br />
Nádražní 25, tel. 224 22 23 36.<br />
Swedish Chamber of Commerce I-5, Praha 1,<br />
Štěpánská 57, tel. 222 24 20 00.<br />
Swiss - Czech Chamber of Commerce J-6, Praha<br />
3, Husitská 90, tel. 222 52 11 25.<br />
Cultural institutes<br />
British Council F-4, Praha 1, Bredovský dvůr, tel.<br />
222 99 11 11.<br />
Cervantes Institute I-5, Praha 2, Na Rybníčku 6,<br />
tel. 221 59 52 11.<br />
Goethe Institut G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo nábř. 32,<br />
tel. 221 96 21 11.<br />
Hungarian Cultural Institute E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská<br />
25-27, tel. 224 22 24 24.<br />
Institut Francais I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 35, tel.<br />
221 40 10 11.<br />
Instituto Italiano di Cultura A-2, Praha 1, Šporkova<br />
14, tel. 257 09 06 81.<br />
Scandinavian House I-3, Praha 1, Zlatnicka 10, tel.<br />
251 01 93 69.<br />
Slovak Institute H-4, Praha 1, Jilská 450/16, tel.<br />
224 94 81 35.<br />
Emergency numbers<br />
Ambulance, tel. 155.<br />
City Police, tel. 156.<br />
Fire, tel. 150.<br />
International Emergency, tel. 112.<br />
Police, tel. 158.<br />
Foreign press & Websites<br />
Czech Business Weekly E-3, Praha 1, Provaznická<br />
13, tel. 234 07 13 70.<br />
expats.cz.<br />
Final Word Praha 1, Opletalova 41, tel. 221 00 43<br />
15.<br />
Finance New Europe Praha 7, Dobrovského 10/554,<br />
tel. 233 38 02 69.<br />
Fleet Sheet Praha 1, Opletalova 41, tel. 221 00<br />
43 15.<br />
Prague Daily Monitor.<br />
Provokator.<br />
The New Presence D-4, Národní 11, tel. 222 07<br />
56 00.<br />
The Prague Post I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 20, tel.<br />
296 33 44 00.<br />
Think Again Praha 3, Vinohradská 102, tel. 272 73<br />
14 69.<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Foreign representations<br />
Argentina F-4, Praha 1, Panská 895/6, tel. 224 21<br />
24 48.<br />
Australia I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 10, tel. 251 01<br />
83 50.<br />
Austria Praha 5, Victora Huga 10, tel. 257 09 05 11.<br />
Belarus Praha 7, Sádky 626, tel. 233 54 08 99.<br />
Belgium C-1, Praha 6, Valdštejnská 6, tel. 257 53<br />
35 24.<br />
Brazil F-4, Praha 1, Panská 5, tel. 224 32 19 10.<br />
Bulgaria I-5, Praha 1, Krakovská 6, tel. 222 21 12<br />
58.<br />
Canada G-2, Praha 6, Muchova 6, tel. 272 10 18 00.<br />
Croatia Praha 6, V Průhledu 9, tel. 233 34 04 79.<br />
Denmark B-3, Praha 1, Maltezské nám. 5, tel. 257<br />
53 16 00.<br />
Egypt G-1, Praha 6, Pelléova 14, tel. 224 31 15 06.<br />
Finland B-3, Praha 1, Hellichova 1, tel. 251 17 72<br />
51.<br />
France B-3, Praha 1, Velkopřevorské nám. 2, tel.<br />
251 17 17 11.<br />
Germany A-2, Praha 1, Vlašská 19, tel. 257 11 31<br />
11.<br />
Greece J-5, Praha 2, Helénská 2/1781, tel. 222 25<br />
09 43.<br />
Hungary G-2, Praha 6, Pod hradbami 17, tel. 233 32<br />
35 84.<br />
Chile G-1, Praha 6, U Vorlíků 4, tel. 224 31 50 64.<br />
China G-1, Praha 6, Pelléova 18, tel. 233 02 88 00.<br />
India C-1, Praha 1, Valdštejnská 6, tel. 257 53 34<br />
90.<br />
Indonesia Praha 5, Nad Buďánkami 7/II, tel. 257<br />
21 43 88.<br />
Ireland A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 13, tel. 257 53 00<br />
61-4.<br />
Israel G-2, Praha 7, Badeniho 2, tel. 233 09 75 00.<br />
Italy A-2, Praha 1, Nerudova 20, tel. 233 08 01 11.<br />
Japan B-3, Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 6, tel. 257 53<br />
35 46.<br />
Jordan Praha 4, Branická 416/237, tel. 241 44 04<br />
55.<br />
Kuwait Praha 6, Na Zátorce 26, tel. 220 57 07 81.<br />
Latvia Praha 10, Hradešínská 3, tel. 255 70 08 81.<br />
Lebanon G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo nábř. 14, tel.<br />
224 93 04 95.<br />
Lithuania Praha 5, Pod Klikovkou 2/1916, tel. 257<br />
21 01 22.<br />
Morocco Praha 6, K Starému Bubenči 4, tel. 233<br />
32 56 56.<br />
Netherlands Praha 6, Gotthardská 6/27, tel. 233<br />
01 52 00.<br />
Norway Praha 5, Hellichova 458/1, tel. 257 32 37<br />
37.<br />
Palestine Praha 7, Na Kazance 634/7, tel. 233 55<br />
24 48.<br />
Philippines C-3, Praha 1, Senovážné nám. 8/992,<br />
tel. 224 21 63 97.<br />
Poland I-4, Praha 1, Valdštejnská 8, tel. 257 53 03<br />
88.<br />
Portugal Praha 5, nám. Kinských 7, tel. 257 31 12<br />
30.<br />
Romania A-2, Praha 1, Nerudova 5, tel. 257 53 42<br />
10.<br />
Russia G-1, Praha 6, Pod Kaštany 1, tel. 233 37 41<br />
00.<br />
Slovakia Praha 6, Pod Hradbami 1, tel. 233 11 30<br />
51.<br />
Slovenia Praha 6, Pod Hradbami 15, tel. 233 08 12<br />
11.<br />
South Africa K-6, Praha 10, Ruská 65, tel. 267 31<br />
11 14.<br />
South Korea G-1, Praha 6, Slavíčkova 5, tel. 234<br />
09 04 11.<br />
Spain Praha 7, Bádeniho 4, tel. 224 31 12 22.<br />
Sweden Praha 1, Úvoz 13, tel. 220 31 32 00.<br />
Switzerland Praha 6, Pevnostní 7, tel. 220 40 06<br />
11.<br />
Thailand G-1, Praha 6, Romaina Rollanda 3, tel. 220<br />
57 14 39.<br />
Tunisia Praha 4, Nad kostelem 8, tel. 244 46 06 52.<br />
Turkey Praha 6, Pevnostní 3, tel. 224 31 14 02.<br />
Ukraine Praha 6, Charlese de Gaulla 29, tel. 233 34<br />
20 00.<br />
United Kingdom A-2, Praha 1, Thunovská 14, tel.<br />
257 40 21 11.<br />
Uruguay G-5, Praha 6, Muchova 9, tel. 224 31 47<br />
55.<br />
USA A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 15, tel. 257 53 06 63.<br />
Yemen Praha 6, Pod hradbami 5, tel. 233 33 15 98.<br />
International schools<br />
British International School J-6, Praha 4, K lesu 2,<br />
tel. 226 09 62 00.<br />
Deutsche Schule Prag Praha 5, Schwarzenberská<br />
1, tel. 235 31 17 25.<br />
English College Praha 9, Sokolovská 320, tel. 283<br />
89 31 13.<br />
English International School Praha 4, Na Okruhu<br />
395, tel. 261 91 23 68.<br />
Global Concepts Praha 6, Nad Želivkou 598, tel.<br />
220 96 15 61.<br />
International School of Prague Praha 6, Nebušická<br />
700, tel. 220 38 42 15.<br />
Lycee Français I-5, Praha 5, Drtinova 7, tel. 257<br />
31 76 11.<br />
Language schools<br />
Agentura Educo I-1, Praha 7, Františka Křížka 1, tel.<br />
220 41 21 41.<br />
Berlitz H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo nám. 10, tel. 225 95<br />
25 50.<br />
Camelot languages G-4, Praha 3, Domažlická 15,<br />
tel. 222 51 77 47.<br />
Concep Training Praha 5, Radlická 1C, tel. 257 32<br />
73 39.<br />
ITC - International TEFL Certificate D-2, Praha 1,<br />
Kaprova 14, tel. 224 81 47 91.<br />
London School of Modern Languages J-6, Praha<br />
2, Londýnská 8, tel. 222 51 50 18.<br />
Prague Language Centre I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská<br />
24, tel. 222 23 29 32.<br />
Prague Schools Praha 6, Na Sekyrce 1392/2, tel.<br />
233 32 27 42.<br />
SF Servis D-2, Praha 1, nám. J. Palacha 2, tel. 221<br />
61 92 97.<br />
The Bell School Praha 10, Nedvězská 29, tel. 274<br />
81 53 42.<br />
The Caledonian School D-4, Praha 1, Národní 11,<br />
tel. 224 23 77 31.<br />
Radio<br />
BBC World Service (101.1).<br />
Classic (98.7)<br />
Expres Radio (90.3)<br />
Radio 1 (91.9)<br />
Radio Free Europe, (1233,1287 AM)<br />
BUSINESS DIRECTORY<br />
Laundry & Dry cleaning<br />
Clean Touch E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 20, tel. 224 81<br />
42 99.<br />
Golden Clean Praha 4, Přímětická 1, tel. 241 73<br />
19 94.<br />
Laundry Kings Praha 6, Dejvická 16, tel. 233 34<br />
37 43.<br />
Laundry Land F-3, Praha 1, Na příkopě 12 (Pasáž<br />
Černá Růže), tel. 221 01 46 32.<br />
Cyber Laudromat J-5, Praha 2, Korunní 14, tel. 222<br />
51 01 80.<br />
Locksmiths & Key cutting<br />
Key Nonstop I-1, Praha 7, Dukelských hrdinů 4, tel.<br />
220 87 80 16.<br />
Minit D-4, Praha 1, Národní 26 (Tesco), tel. 222 00<br />
34 73.<br />
Lost credit cards<br />
American Express, tel. 222 21 10 89.<br />
Diners Club, tel. 267 19 74 50.<br />
Eurocard/Mastercard & Visa, tel. 224 24 50 41.<br />
Tailors<br />
Adam Steiner I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 24, tel.<br />
224 22 05 94.<br />
Anne - Marie D-4, Praha 5, Vítězná 15, tel. 251 51<br />
02 77.<br />
Atelier Závěrková F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 19, tel. 224<br />
80 83 66.<br />
April - May 2007<br />
91
92<br />
HEALTHCARE & SPORTS<br />
24-hour pharmacies<br />
Lékárna Modřany Praha 4, Soukalova 3355, tel.<br />
244 40 22 70.<br />
Lékárna Palackého H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 5, tel.<br />
224 94 69 82.<br />
Lékárna U Anděla Praha 5, Štefánikova 6, tel. 257<br />
32 46 86.<br />
Lékárna U Svaté Ludmily J-6, Praha 2, Belgická 37,<br />
tel. 224 23 72 07.<br />
Dentists<br />
American Dental Associates I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici<br />
4, tel. 221 18 11 21.<br />
Dental Emergencies H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 5, tel.<br />
224 94 69 81.<br />
Dental Surgery and Laboratory Praha 4, U družstev<br />
10/1668, tel. 241 40 39 70.<br />
Esthesia Praha 8, Trojská 28, tel. 284 68 05 30.<br />
European Dental Center I-4, Praha 1, Václavské<br />
nám. 33, tel. 224 22 89 84.<br />
Hospitals<br />
Nemocnice Motol Praha 5, V úvalu 84, tel. 224 43<br />
11 11.<br />
Nemocnice na Františku I-2, Praha 1, Na Františku<br />
847, tel. 224 81 05 02.<br />
Nemocnice Na Homolce Praha 5, Roentgenova 2,<br />
tel. 257 27 11 11.<br />
Thomayerova nemocnice Praha 4, Vídeňská 800,<br />
tel. 261 08 11 11.<br />
Medical centres<br />
Asklepion J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 39, tel. 234 71<br />
61 11.<br />
Canadian Medical Care Praha 6, Veleslavínská 1,<br />
tel. 235 36 01 33.<br />
Health Centre Prague I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 28,<br />
tel. 224 22 00 40.<br />
International Medical Services Praha 7, Jankovcova<br />
16, tel. 266 77 37 11.<br />
Medicover I-6, Praha 2, Tylovo nám. 3/15, tel. 234<br />
63 01 11.<br />
Pediatric Health Centre Prague Praha 4, Ke Spofě<br />
7, tel. 244 40 31 14.<br />
Polyclinic D-4, Praha 1, Národní 9, tel. 222 075<br />
120.<br />
Opticians<br />
Decent Optik Praha 4, Nuselská 41, tel. 241 74<br />
27 19.<br />
Eiffel Optics F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 38, tel. 221 61<br />
33 02.<br />
Grand Optical F-3, Praha 1, Na příkopě 19/21, tel.<br />
224 23 83 71.<br />
Bowling<br />
Beer and Bowling Diner Praha 4, Kongresová 1<br />
(Corinthia Towers Hotel), tel. 261 19 11 51.<br />
Bowling Centrum RAN I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 10,<br />
tel. 221 03 30 20.<br />
Bowling Club K-4, Praha 3, Bořivojova 83, tel. 222<br />
72 11 24.<br />
Radava SC Praha 7, Milady Horákové 37, tel. 233<br />
10 12 13.<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Extreme sports<br />
Bobsleigh Praha 9, Prosecká 906/34b, tel. 284 84<br />
05 20.<br />
K. I. Bungee Jump, tel. 608 768 168.<br />
Parašutistická škola Impact Praha 4, Dolni 12,<br />
tel. 261 22 54 31.<br />
Tandem Centrum Praha Praha 6, Na Pěkné vyhlídce<br />
4, tel. 233 34 34 43.<br />
Horse racing<br />
Karlovarské závodiště Karlovy Vary, kpt. Jaroše 29,<br />
tel. 35 356 47 44.<br />
Pardubice Pardubice, Pražská 607, tel. 466 79 71 11.<br />
Velká Chuchle Praha 5, Radotínská 69, tel. 257 94<br />
14 31.<br />
Paintball<br />
Paintball Club Troja Praha 4, Krejnická 2021, tel.<br />
603 44 95 79.<br />
Prague Indoor Paintball Praha 9, Freyova 27, tel.<br />
777 33 49 39.<br />
Football<br />
The Czech premiere league, the Gambrinus liga features<br />
a few Czech national players, but most of the big names<br />
play, as per usual for football stars, overseas where the<br />
bucks are bigger and the weather warmer. Last season,<br />
Liberec won the league, with Mladá Boleslav in second<br />
place, followed by Slavia Praha. Next season might see<br />
one of the country’s oldest football clubs, FK Viktoria<br />
Žižkov, rejoin the big boys in the Gambrinus liga. Games<br />
are cheap (50 - 250Kč) and tickets can be bought at<br />
the gates, unless it is a particularly important game. For<br />
some information in English, go to www.fotbal.cz.<br />
4 Apr 17:00<br />
Slavia Praha - SIAD Most Strahov Stadium<br />
14 Apr 17:00<br />
Sparta Praha - Teplice Toyota Arena<br />
18 Apr 17:00<br />
Slavia Praha - Viktoria Plzeň Strahov Stadium<br />
21 Apr 17:00<br />
Sparta Praha - Slavia Praha Toyota Arena<br />
29 Apr 17:00<br />
Slavia Praha - Kladno Strahov Stadium<br />
5 Apr 17:00<br />
Sparta Praha - Slovácko Toyota Arena<br />
9 Apr 17:00<br />
Slavia Praha - Mladá Boleslav Strahov Stadium<br />
12 Apr 17:00<br />
Sparta Praha - Slovan Liberec Toyota Arena<br />
20 Apr 17:00<br />
Slavia Praha - Tescoma Zlín Strahov Stadium<br />
27 Apr 17:00<br />
Sparta Praha - SIAD Most Toyota Arena<br />
AC Sparta Praha (Toyota Arena) H-1, Praha 7,<br />
Milady Horákové 98, tel. 220 57 03 23.<br />
CU Bohemians Praha Praha 10, Vršovická 31,<br />
tel. 271 72 14 59.<br />
FK Viktorka Žižkov Praha 3, Seifertova, tel. 222<br />
71 25 03.<br />
SK Slavia Praha (Strahov Stadium) Praha 6,<br />
Diskařská 100, tel. 257 21 32 90.<br />
17. listopadu D-2<br />
28. října E-4<br />
Alšovo nábřeží D-2<br />
Anenská D-3<br />
Anenské nám. D-3<br />
Anežská F-1<br />
Bartolomějská D-4<br />
Benediktská F-2<br />
Besední B-4<br />
Betlémská D-4<br />
Betlémské nám. D-4<br />
Bílkova E-2<br />
Boršov D-4<br />
Břehová D-1<br />
Břetislavova A-2<br />
Celetná F-3<br />
Cihelná C-2<br />
Čechův most D-1<br />
Červená E-2<br />
Divadelní C-4<br />
Dlouhá E-2<br />
Dražického B-2<br />
Dražického nám. B-2<br />
Dušní E-1<br />
Dvořákovo nábř. D-1<br />
E. Krásnohorské E-2<br />
Harantova B-3<br />
Haštalská F-2<br />
Haštalské nám. F-2<br />
Havelská E-3<br />
Havelská ulička E-3<br />
Havířská E-3<br />
Hellichova A-3<br />
Hlavsova E-3<br />
Hradčanské nám A-1<br />
Hradební F-2<br />
Hroznová B-3<br />
Husova D-3<br />
Charvátova E-4<br />
Chotkova B-1<br />
Jáchymova E-2<br />
Jakubská F-3<br />
Jalovcová D-3<br />
Jánský vršek A-2<br />
Jilská D-3<br />
Jindřišská F-4<br />
Jiřská B-1<br />
Josefská B-2<br />
K Haštalu F-1<br />
Kamzíková E-3<br />
Kaprova D-2<br />
Karlova D-3<br />
Karlův most C-3<br />
Karmelitská B-3<br />
Karolíny Světlé C-4<br />
Klárov C-1<br />
Klášterská F-1<br />
Konviktská D-4<br />
Kosárkovo náb. D-1<br />
Kostečná E-2<br />
Kozí E-1<br />
Kožná E-3<br />
Králodvorská F-3<br />
Krocínova C-4<br />
Křižovnická D-3<br />
Křižovnické nám. D-3<br />
Lázeňská B-2<br />
Letenská B-2<br />
Liliová D-3<br />
Linhartská D-3<br />
Maiselova D-2<br />
Malá Klášterní F-1<br />
Malé nám. E-3<br />
Malostranské náb. B-4<br />
Malostranské nám. B-2<br />
Maltézské nám. B-3<br />
Mánesův most C-2<br />
Mariánské nám. D-3<br />
Martinská D-4<br />
Masná E-2<br />
Melantrichova E-3<br />
Michalská E-3<br />
Mikovcova I-5<br />
Mikulandská D-4<br />
Mikulášská E-3<br />
Míšeňská B-2<br />
Most Legií C-4<br />
Mostecká B-2<br />
Na Františku E-1<br />
Na Kampě B-3<br />
Na Můstku E-4<br />
Na Opyši C-1<br />
Na Perštýně D-4<br />
Na Příkopě F-3<br />
Na Rejdišti D-2<br />
Na Zábradlí C-3<br />
Náb. Ed. Beneše C-1<br />
Nám. Curieových E-1<br />
STREET REGISTER<br />
Nám. Franze Kafky E-3<br />
Nám. J. Palacha D-2<br />
Nám. U sv. Jiří A-1<br />
Náměstí Republiky F-2<br />
Náprstkova D-3<br />
Národní D-4<br />
Nebovidská B-3<br />
Nekázanka F-3<br />
Nerudova A-2<br />
Nosticova B-3<br />
Novotného lávka C-3<br />
Olivová F-4<br />
Ovocný trh F-3<br />
Panská F-4<br />
Pařížská E-1<br />
Pelclova B-3<br />
Perlová E-4<br />
Plaská B-4<br />
Platnéřská D-2<br />
Pod Bruskou C-1<br />
Politických vězňů F-4<br />
Prašný most A-1<br />
Prokopská B-2<br />
Provaznická E-3<br />
Průchodní D-4<br />
Rámová F-2<br />
Revoluční F-2<br />
Růžová F-4<br />
Rybná F-2<br />
Rytířská E-4<br />
Řásnovka F-1<br />
Řetězová D-3<br />
Říční B-4<br />
Salvátorská E-2<br />
Saská B-2<br />
Seminářská D-3<br />
Senovážná F-3<br />
Skořepka D-4<br />
Smetanovo náb. C-4<br />
Sněmovní B-2<br />
Spálená D-4<br />
Staré zámecké schody B-1<br />
Staroměstské nám. E-3<br />
Stříbrná D-3<br />
Šeříková B-4<br />
Široká D-2<br />
Štefánikův most F-1<br />
Štupartská F-2<br />
Templová F-3<br />
Thunovská A-2<br />
Tomášská B-2<br />
Tržiště A-2<br />
Týnská F-2<br />
Týnská ulička E-2<br />
U Bruských kasáren C-1<br />
U Dobřenských D-4<br />
U Lanové dráhy A-4<br />
U Lužického sem. C-2<br />
U Milosrdných E-1<br />
U Obecního domu F-3<br />
U Obecního dvora E-2<br />
U Plovárny D-1<br />
U Prašné brány F-3<br />
U Radnice E-3<br />
U Sovových mlýnů B-3<br />
U Staré školy E-2<br />
U Starého hřbitova D-2<br />
U Sv. Ducha E-2<br />
U Zlaté studně B-1<br />
U Železné lávky C-1<br />
Uhelný trh E-4<br />
Újezd A-4<br />
V Cípu F-4<br />
V Kolkovně E-2<br />
V Kotcích E-4<br />
Václavské nám. F-4<br />
Valdštejnská C-1<br />
Valdštejnské nám. B-1<br />
Valentinská D-2<br />
Vejvodova D-3<br />
Veleslavínova D-2<br />
Velkopřevorské nám. B-3<br />
Vězeňská E-2<br />
Vikářská A-1<br />
Vítězná B-4<br />
Vlašská A-2<br />
Voršilská D-4<br />
Všehrdova B-4<br />
Za Haštalem F-2<br />
Zámecká A-2<br />
Zámecké schody A-1<br />
Zlatá D-3<br />
Zlatá ulička B-1<br />
Žatecká D-2<br />
Železná E-3<br />
April - May 2007<br />
93
Home of the New York Steak, traditional<br />
Steakhouse Menu with Chops and Seafood.<br />
The best Steaks in Prague<br />
7even | Opening hours<br />
6.30 a.m. - 11.00 p.m.<br />
Reservations: 221 822 431<br />
Renaissance Prague Hotel<br />
V Celnici 7, Prague 1<br />
www.renaissanceprague.com
98<br />
INDEX<br />
7 Vlků 66<br />
Abaton 61<br />
Accord 30<br />
Adalbert 26<br />
Adria 21<br />
Advantage 30<br />
AghaRTA Jazz Centrum 54<br />
Akat Steakhouse 59<br />
Akropolis 64, 67<br />
Alchymist 60<br />
Alchymist Grand Hotel & Spa 20<br />
Allegro 37<br />
Ambassador Casino 55<br />
Ambiente Brasileiro 41<br />
Ambiente Living 62<br />
Ambiente Pasta Fresca 37<br />
Ametyst 21<br />
Amigos 65<br />
Amores Perros 65<br />
Amour Hotel Residence 29<br />
Andel's 21<br />
angelo Hotel 21<br />
Anna 26<br />
Aparthotel Amadeus 26<br />
Apart Karee 29<br />
Apartments in Prague 29<br />
Apartments Oasis CITY 29<br />
Apostolic Residence 22<br />
Appia Residences 29<br />
Apple 31<br />
Approach & Entry 76<br />
Archibald City 26<br />
Arcotel Teatrino 22<br />
Ariana 32<br />
Ariston 26<br />
Ariva Guesthouse 30<br />
Aromi 64<br />
Around Prague Information Centre 77<br />
Arzenal 43<br />
Astoria 22<br />
Atlantic 26<br />
Atmosphere 48<br />
Azteca 60<br />
Baang! 64<br />
Back Doors 70<br />
Bakeshop Diner 32<br />
Banco Casino 55<br />
Banditos 65<br />
Bandol 44, 57<br />
Baráčnická rychta 59<br />
Bar and Books 48<br />
Barbar 61<br />
Barceló Praha 22<br />
Barock 48<br />
Bastille 59<br />
Batalion 56<br />
Beas 44, 65<br />
Bellevue 37<br />
Belvedere 26<br />
Beograd 33<br />
Beránek 26<br />
Best Tour 81<br />
Bethlehem Chapel 79<br />
Big Sister 73<br />
Biskupský dům 22<br />
Blind Eye 66<br />
Blues Sklep 54<br />
Boathouse 31<br />
Bohemia 55<br />
Bohemia Bagel 43, 58<br />
Bohemia Travel Service 81<br />
Bokovka 44<br />
Bombay Cocktail Bar 48<br />
Bordo 67<br />
Brasserie La Provence 35<br />
Brasserie M 35<br />
Brasserie Praha 37<br />
Bredovský dvůr 33<br />
Březina 30<br />
Buffalo Bill's 32<br />
Bugsy's 48, 49<br />
Bumerang 62<br />
Bunkr Parukářka 67<br />
BW Hotel Kampa 22<br />
BW Meteor Plaza 22<br />
Byblos 42<br />
Cabestro 48<br />
Café Café 46<br />
Café Louvre 46<br />
Café Pavlač 62<br />
Café Revive 46<br />
Café Savoy 58<br />
Cafeterapie 46<br />
Café WOW 46<br />
Caffrey's 52<br />
Cantina 60<br />
Carlton 22<br />
Cartouche 42<br />
Casa Marcello 22<br />
Casino de Prague Le Hilton 55<br />
Casino Duplex 55<br />
Casino Monaco 55<br />
Casino Palais Savarin 55<br />
Casino Panorama 55<br />
Casino President 56<br />
Castle Steps 30<br />
Čedok 81<br />
Cellarius 44<br />
Celnice 33<br />
Centrál 26<br />
Century Casino Millennium 56<br />
Černý slon 21, 36<br />
Červená tabulka 36<br />
Charles Bridge 77<br />
Prague In Your Pocket<br />
Chateau Rouge 49<br />
Chateau St. Havel 23<br />
Cheers 66<br />
Chez Amis 43<br />
Chez Marcel 35<br />
Chilli House 31<br />
Church of Our Lady Victorious 79<br />
Cicala 40<br />
Cigars and Coffee 46<br />
City Information 29<br />
City Pension 26<br />
Cityrama Prague 81<br />
City Walks 78<br />
Clarion 27<br />
Claris 27<br />
Clear Head 44<br />
Clementin 22<br />
Cloister Inn 27<br />
Clown & Bard 31<br />
Club 161 73<br />
Club 600 73<br />
Coffee Fellows 46<br />
Coffeeheaven 46<br />
Coloseum 42<br />
Corinthia Panorama 22<br />
Corinthia Towers 20<br />
Country Life 44<br />
Courtyard Marriott Flora 22<br />
Cowboys Steaks & Cocktails 58<br />
Creperie Café 46<br />
Cross Club 68<br />
Crowne Plaza 22<br />
Cubism Museum 78<br />
Cukrkávalimonáda 58<br />
Culinaria 32<br />
Czech Folklore 69<br />
Czech Inn 31<br />
Dahab Yalla 43<br />
Daily Walks 78<br />
Daliborka Tower 76<br />
dANico 40<br />
Darling Cabaret 73<br />
David 60<br />
De Brug 48<br />
Decorative Arts Museum 78<br />
Desire Cabaret 73<br />
Dinitz Café 37<br />
DISK Café 46<br />
Dobrá čajovna 47<br />
Domus Henrici 23<br />
Don Giovanni 40<br />
Don Pedro 41<br />
Downtown Café 58<br />
Duende 49<br />
Ebel 46<br />
El Centro 61<br />
Élite 21<br />
Elysee 27<br />
Emporio Café 46<br />
Endy's 43<br />
Érra 46<br />
Escade 74<br />
Ethno 47<br />
Evropa 27<br />
Extasy Cabaret 74<br />
Extol Inn 27, 31<br />
Face To Face 68<br />
Fat Boy's 49<br />
Ferdinanda 33<br />
First courtyard 76<br />
FKK Prague 74<br />
Flambée 35<br />
Fluidum 65<br />
Follow Me 74<br />
Four Seasons 20<br />
Fraktal 68<br />
Francouzská restaurace 35<br />
Franz Kafka 44<br />
Funicular Railway 81<br />
Futurum 70<br />
Fuzion 47<br />
Gecko 49<br />
George & Dragon 52<br />
Giovanni 40<br />
Gitanes 58<br />
Globe 47<br />
Golden Lane 76<br />
Golden Sickle 31<br />
Grand Café Orient 47<br />
Grand Café Praha 47<br />
Grand Hotel Bohemia 20<br />
Grand Hotel Praha 23<br />
Green Garden 27<br />
Grotta 69<br />
Hanil 64<br />
Hany Bany 61<br />
Hapu 66<br />
Harlequin 66<br />
Harley's 49<br />
Haštal Hotel 28<br />
Haveli 59<br />
Hergetova Cihelna 60<br />
High Synagogue 80<br />
Hilton Prague 20<br />
Himalaya 63<br />
Historical Museum 78<br />
Hlučná samota 63<br />
Hokkaido 41<br />
Hombre del Mundo Mexicano 70<br />
HOT 37<br />
Hotel 16 28<br />
Hotel Anděl 28<br />
Hotel Páv 28<br />
Huang He 63<br />
Ibis Praha Smíchov 28<br />
Infinity 67<br />
INOS 28<br />
InterContinental Praha 20<br />
Irish Club Pension 30<br />
Irish Club Prague 68<br />
J.J.Murphy's 61<br />
Jágr's Sport Bar 53<br />
Jalta Praha 23<br />
Jáma 52<br />
Jazz Boat 54<br />
Jet Set 70<br />
Jewellery Collection 78<br />
Jewish Museum 80<br />
Josef 20<br />
Julián 28<br />
K.U.Bar.Cafe 49<br />
K5 Relax Club 73<br />
Kaaba 62<br />
Kabul Karolina 32<br />
Kafíčko 58<br />
Kafka Museum 78<br />
Kain 67<br />
Kamenný most 33<br />
Kampa Museum 78<br />
Kampa Park 60<br />
Káva Káva Káva 69<br />
Kavalír 28<br />
Khajuraho 36<br />
Klausen Synagogue 80<br />
Klementinum 81<br />
Klub 007 Strahov 70<br />
Klub architektů 44<br />
Kogo 40<br />
Koliba Praha 38<br />
Koliba U Pastýřky 63<br />
Kolkovna 33<br />
Korea House 41<br />
Kozička 49, 57<br />
Kuře v hodinkách 64<br />
L'Angolo 41<br />
L'Ardoise 63<br />
La Boca 32<br />
La Bodega 43<br />
La Bodega Flamenca 68<br />
La Bodeguita del Medio 42<br />
La Boutique 23<br />
La Cambusa 70<br />
La Casa Argentina 32<br />
La Casa Blů 52<br />
La Creperie 68<br />
La Degustation 39<br />
La Lavande 63<br />
La Perle de Prague 38<br />
Lapidarium 78<br />
La Scene 35<br />
La Veranda 39<br />
Le Bistro de Marléne 68<br />
Le Clan 67<br />
Le Club 64<br />
Legends 53<br />
Le Mirage 67<br />
Lemon Leaf 43<br />
Le Saint-Jacques 36<br />
Les Moules 32<br />
Letenské sady 33<br />
Letenský zámeček 68<br />
Le Terroir 36<br />
Le Tram 68<br />
Liberty 23<br />
Lokalblok 70<br />
Loreta 79<br />
Los v Oslu 64<br />
Lucerna Music Bar 56<br />
Luník 28<br />
Lví dvůr 59<br />
M1 56<br />
Made In Japan 41<br />
Magická zahrada 64<br />
Mailsi 65<br />
Maisel Synagogue 80<br />
Maluj Creative Café 62<br />
Malý Buddha 59<br />
Man-na 41<br />
Mandarin Oriental 20<br />
Manni Mini 63<br />
Mansson 32<br />
Maria Prag 24<br />
Marriott 20<br />
Martin's Irish Pub 66<br />
Martin Tour 81<br />
Matrix 67<br />
Matrjoska 42<br />
Maximillian 24<br />
Mecca 68<br />
Medúza 66<br />
Meli-Melo Music Club 67<br />
Merlin 66<br />
Metamorphis 24<br />
Millhouse Sushi-Kaitan 41<br />
Miniatures Museum 78<br />
Mirage 69<br />
Misch Masch 68<br />
Miss Sophie's 31<br />
Miyabi 41<br />
Mlýnec 60<br />
Modrý zub 44<br />
Molly Malone's 52<br />
Monarch 44<br />
Mövenpick 23<br />
Mozaika 64<br />
Mu Café 66<br />
Mucha 24<br />
Mucha Museum 78<br />
Municipal House 77<br />
Museum Pension 30<br />
Mušketýr 30<br />
Nagoya 69<br />
National Memorial 81<br />
National Museum 79<br />
National Theatre 77<br />
Na Verandách 69<br />
Na Zlatém kříži 28<br />
New Jewish Cemetery 80<br />
NoD 47<br />
Noel's Lounge 62<br />
Noodles 39<br />
Nordica 47<br />
Nostitz 60<br />
Nostress 39<br />
Novoměstský pivovar 33<br />
Novotel Praha City 24<br />
O'Che's 53<br />
Ocean Drive 52<br />
Old Jewish Cemetery 80<br />
Old Prague Hostel 31<br />
Old Royal Palace 76<br />
Old Town Square 77<br />
Oliva 39<br />
Olympia 59<br />
Olympos 63<br />
Our Lady of Snow 79<br />
Palace Gardens 76<br />
Palace Praha 20<br />
Pálffy Palác 59<br />
Paris 20<br />
Park Café 33<br />
Parnas 39<br />
Patriot - X 33<br />
Pavelka 44<br />
Pekelnej Bar 70<br />
Pension Atelier Art 12 30<br />
Perfect 39<br />
Perpetuum 34<br />
Petřínské Terasy 38<br />
Petrovič 42<br />
Picante Fresh-Mex 57<br />
Pinkas Synagogue 80<br />
Pivovarský dům 33<br />
Pizza Marzano 42<br />
Pizza Nuova 42<br />
Pizzeria U Tučňáků 69<br />
Planet Sushi 69<br />
Pool Café 69<br />
Popocafepetl 66<br />
Popocafepetl Music Club 70<br />
Posezení U čiriny 43<br />
Potrefená husa 33<br />
Prague's Schindler 80<br />
Prague Info 77<br />
Prague Inn 24<br />
Prague Passenger Shipping 81<br />
Prague Sightseeing Tours 81<br />
Prague Travel 78<br />
Pravda 39<br />
Precious Legacy Tours 81<br />
Premiant City Tour 81<br />
President 21<br />
Punto Azul 70<br />
Radisson SAS Alcron 21<br />
RadostFX 65, 67<br />
Ramada Grand Hotel Symphony 24<br />
Real Tour 78<br />
Red Hot & Blues 32<br />
Reduta 54<br />
Renaissance 21<br />
Retro 64<br />
Retro Music Hall 67<br />
Reykjavík 42<br />
Rezidence Lundborg 24<br />
Rincón 52<br />
Rio's Vyšehrad 38<br />
Roca 64<br />
Rock Café 56<br />
Rocky O'Reilly's 53<br />
Roma 24<br />
Roxy 56<br />
Royal Gardens & Stag Moat 76<br />
Ruský Salón 65<br />
Růžová čajovna 47<br />
Rybanaruby 62<br />
Rybí trh 42<br />
Safir 70<br />
Sahara Café 64<br />
Salvator 28<br />
Sarah Bernhardt 36<br />
Sax 28<br />
Schwarzenberg Palace 76<br />
Second courtyard 76<br />
Seven Angels 34<br />
Seven Days 24<br />
Shabu 47<br />
Shadow Bar 61<br />
Shakespeare & Sons 62<br />
Siam Orchid 44<br />
Sieber 24<br />
Šípek Bistrot 37<br />
Sir Toby's 31<br />
Sixth Sense 56<br />
Slavia 47<br />
SOHO+ 39<br />
Sokol 31<br />
Solidní nejistota 57<br />
Sonora 65<br />
Sovovy Mlýny 59<br />
Spanish Synagogue 80<br />
Spearmint Casino 56<br />
Square 60<br />
Ss. Cyril and Methodius Church 79<br />
St. Ignatius Church 79<br />
St. Nicholas Café 61<br />
St. Nicholas Church 79<br />
St. Vitus Cathedral 76<br />
Sternberg Palace 76<br />
St George's Basilica 76<br />
Století 34<br />
Strahov Monastery 79<br />
Střelecký ostrov 39<br />
Studio 54 56<br />
Sushi Bar 69<br />
SushiPoint 41<br />
Suterén 39<br />
Svatá Klára 68<br />
Taj Mahal 63<br />
Tchaikovsky 29<br />
Techtle mechtle 64<br />
TGI Fridays 69<br />
Thai Spice 43<br />
The Beer Factory 53<br />
The Blue Light 61<br />
The Golden Gate Hotel & Suites 21<br />
The Noodle Bar 43<br />
The Pack 54<br />
The Swamp 70<br />
Three Lions 54<br />
Tiger Tiger 65<br />
Tlustá koala 53<br />
Town Hall & Astronomical clock 77<br />
Transport Museum 79<br />
Travellers' Hostel 31<br />
Tretters 52<br />
Trilobi t 57<br />
Trinidad 24<br />
Tříska 28<br />
Troja Chateau 79<br />
TV Tower 38, 81<br />
U Bílého lva 34<br />
U Bílé krávy 63<br />
U Brány 25<br />
U Bukanýra 70<br />
U Buldoka 70<br />
U Černého vola 61<br />
U Červeného páva 34<br />
U Císařů 60<br />
U Dvou šálků 47<br />
U Fleků 33<br />
Újezd 61<br />
U Kalicha 63<br />
U Klenotníka 29<br />
U Korbele 34<br />
U Krále Karla 25<br />
U Krbu 65<br />
U Malého Glena 57, 58, 61<br />
U Malířů 59<br />
U Maltézských rytířů 59<br />
U Medvídků 30<br />
U Modré růže 34<br />
Un Chien Andalou 68<br />
Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club 56<br />
Unitas Pension 30<br />
U Patrona 59<br />
U Páva 25<br />
U Pinkasů 33<br />
U Sádlů 42<br />
U Sadu 57, 66<br />
U Sedmi Švábů 60<br />
U Staré paní 56<br />
U Sudu 44<br />
U Tří korunek 29<br />
U Tří Pštrosů 25<br />
U Vodárny 62<br />
U Vystřeleného oka 66<br />
U Zavěšenýho kafe 58<br />
U Závoje 36<br />
U Zlatého jelena 29<br />
U Zlatého tygra 53<br />
U Zlaté hrušky 59<br />
U Zlaté studně 25, 60<br />
U Žluté boty 29<br />
Vagon 56<br />
Veletržní Palace 79<br />
Velotrixi 78<br />
Velryba 47<br />
Venue 73 54<br />
Vertigo 56<br />
Vikárka 59<br />
Viniční Altán 44<br />
Vltava 39<br />
Vyšehrad 77<br />
Vysmátý zajíc 57<br />
V Zátiší 40<br />
Wakata 68<br />
Waldstein 25<br />
Waxwork Museum 79<br />
Wenceslas Square 77<br />
Wigwam 69<br />
Wings Club 64<br />
XT3 67<br />
YAMI 41<br />
Yasmin 25<br />
Yessi Café 47<br />
Zahrada v Opeře 40<br />
Zanzibar 61<br />
Zero 56<br />
Žižkov Jewish Cemetery 80<br />
Zlatá hvězda 26, 54<br />
Zlatá Praha 38<br />
Zlatý strom 56, 57<br />
Žlutá pumpa 66<br />
Zvonařka 66<br />
Zvonice 38<br />
Choose from the typical Czech<br />
specialties varying from traditional<br />
to contemporary authentic country<br />
dishes in the ambiance of the best<br />
Czech restaurant in Prague<br />
U korbele | Opening hours<br />
11.00 a.m. - 1.00 a.m.<br />
Reservations: 221 822 433<br />
Renaissance Prague Hotel<br />
V Celnici 7, Prague 1<br />
www.renaissanceprague.com