July 2013 - Grand Hotel Tremezzo

ITALIAN LAKESwhitewashed beams, beige stonefloors, wheat-colored linen upholsteryand a stylish mix of traditionaland contemporary art and furniture.Our air-conditioned lakeviewJunior Suite came with an extremelycomfortable bed, fine linens and asmallish modern bath stocked withErbario Toscano olive-oil toiletries.Overall, the suite’s simple designscheme and neutral colors served toemphasize original features such asmassive beams, terra-cotta floors and600-year-old frescoes.The hotel’s excellent (and reasonablypriced) restaurant comprisestwo elegant rooms with vaulted ceilingsand marble fireplaces, whichextend onto a sublime terrace wherewrought-iron tables are tuckedamid vine arbors. I particularlyenjoyed the house-made raviolistuffed with Bagoss cheese, madefrom the skimmed milk of the cowsthat graze the alpine pastures aroundnearby Bagolino. Lake fish such aspike are frequently to be found onthe menu, and the wine list featureslocal wines that include enjoyablelight reds such as Groppello andBardolino. Cooking classes are availableon request. Amenities includea fitness area with a Finnish sauna,plus a menu of massage and yoga.The hotel has a classic mahoganyRiva Aquarama Special speedboatfor picnics and full- or half-day trips.(Lake Garda is 32 miles long, so itpresents many opportunities forexploration. However, it is the mostpopular of the Italian lakes withdomestic tourists, so is best visitedin the shoulder seasons of May-Juneand September-October. The southof the lake becomes particularlycrowded with pleasure boaters fromBrescia.)The following day, we headedwest to Lake Como, a 100-mile,two-hour drive. My hope was thatour next stop, the 97-room GRANDHOTEL TREMEZZO, would be justas delightful, and might also providean alternative to the eye-wateringprices of Como’s famous Villa d’Este.The 1910-vintage Tremezzo is builtCONTINUED ON PAGE 1210hideaway report | July 2013