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Chain-of-custody in the diamond and gold jewellery supply chain ...

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1<strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>diamond</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>gold</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> – issues <strong>and</strong> optionsDiscussion Paper – 19 April 2010Prepared by: Fiona Solomon, RJC Director – St<strong>and</strong>ards Development <strong>and</strong> Graham Nicholls,Consultant to RJC.Input from Philip Olden on <strong>gold</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> gratefully acknowledged. Images from iStockphoto.Comment welcome: Please send to consultation@responsible<strong>jewellery</strong>.com1. PurposeThe purpose <strong>of</strong> this paper is to review issues <strong>and</strong> options relat<strong>in</strong>g to cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>diamond</strong><strong>and</strong> <strong>gold</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>. The paper is be<strong>in</strong>g developed to <strong>in</strong>itiate <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>form discussionamong <strong>the</strong> RJC <strong>and</strong> its stakeholders.2. BackgroundThe RJC formally launched its certification system for responsible bus<strong>in</strong>ess practices <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>gold</strong> <strong>and</strong><strong>diamond</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> December 2009. Certification is based on <strong>in</strong>dependent, thirdparty audit<strong>in</strong>g aga<strong>in</strong>st an <strong>in</strong>ternationally‐applicable st<strong>and</strong>ard, <strong>the</strong> RJC Code <strong>of</strong> Practices.In 2010, <strong>the</strong> RJC is <strong>in</strong>vestigat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> feasibility <strong>of</strong> develop<strong>in</strong>g a st<strong>and</strong>ard <strong>and</strong> process for <strong>in</strong>dependent,third party certification <strong>of</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>.The aim is to assist RJC Members <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r stakeholders who may wish to seek voluntarycertification <strong>of</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems as a complementary element to <strong>the</strong> RJC certification <strong>of</strong>responsible bus<strong>in</strong>ess practices.3. Key terms <strong>and</strong> technologiesA number <strong>of</strong> terms are used when talk<strong>in</strong>g about transparency or st<strong>and</strong>ards as applied to <strong>supply</strong>cha<strong>in</strong>s, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g:• <strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong>• Ethical/responsible sourc<strong>in</strong>g• Traceability• Provenance• Product track<strong>in</strong>g• Supply cha<strong>in</strong> management• Stewardshipwww.responsible<strong>jewellery</strong>.comThe Responsible Jewellery Council is <strong>the</strong> trad<strong>in</strong>g name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd, First Floor, Dudley House, 34‐38 Southampton Street, London, UK, WC2E 7HF.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd is registered <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Wales with company number 05449042.


2These all refer to efforts to manage <strong>the</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> to encourage certa<strong>in</strong> objectives, such as fairtrade <strong>and</strong>/or susta<strong>in</strong>able development, agreed st<strong>and</strong>ards <strong>of</strong> production, identification <strong>of</strong> po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong>orig<strong>in</strong>, management <strong>of</strong> product lifecycle, <strong>and</strong>/or customer‐supplier due diligence.The term used <strong>in</strong> this paper is ‘cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong>’, which describes <strong>the</strong> ownership <strong>and</strong> control aspect<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>. The issue <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>terest is how to assure systems for <strong>custody</strong> <strong>of</strong> material withcerta<strong>in</strong> characteristics, as it passes through <strong>the</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> from production to <strong>the</strong> consumer.<strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> – def<strong>in</strong>itions<strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> – <strong>the</strong> custodial sequence that occurs as ownership or control <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> material<strong>supply</strong> is transferred from one custodian to ano<strong>the</strong>r along <strong>the</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>.A ‘cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> system’ comprises a set <strong>of</strong> technologies, procedures <strong>and</strong> documents that areused to provide relevant <strong>in</strong>formation on <strong>the</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> through each step <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong><strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>.A cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> claim is a representation about <strong>the</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> <strong>of</strong> a product, made topurchasers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> product.<strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification is an <strong>in</strong>dependent attestation that a cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> system meetsa st<strong>and</strong>ard.A cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> st<strong>and</strong>ard sets out m<strong>in</strong>imum requirements for <strong>the</strong> design <strong>and</strong> operation <strong>of</strong> acha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> system, for <strong>the</strong> purposes <strong>of</strong> certification.There is a range <strong>of</strong> technologies available, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> development, to support cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems.These usually enable physical product <strong>and</strong>/or <strong>custody</strong> to be tracked, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>clude radio‐frequencyidentification (RFID), <strong>in</strong>scription, material f<strong>in</strong>gerpr<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g, digital imag<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> stones, <strong>and</strong>documentation systems, for example. However <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>dividual technologies, while important, shouldbe understood as enablers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> broader cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> system <strong>and</strong> not seen as <strong>the</strong> system itself.4. Why <strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong>?Driver 1 – Civil society <strong>and</strong> consumers<strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> or traceability systems are <strong>of</strong>ten put forward as a solution to a range <strong>of</strong> issues <strong>in</strong><strong>the</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>. A number <strong>of</strong> civil society campaigns po<strong>in</strong>t to cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong>, <strong>in</strong>association with responsible bus<strong>in</strong>ess practices, as provid<strong>in</strong>g one or more <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g:• Driver to improve m<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g practices;• Driver to <strong>in</strong>crease proportion <strong>of</strong> recycled materials;• Increased visibility <strong>of</strong> material provenance;• Consumer choice as to po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> orig<strong>in</strong>;• Means to avoid ‘conflict’ resources, illegal or crim<strong>in</strong>al practices <strong>and</strong> detrimental impactssuch as human rights abuses. 11 For a broad discussion <strong>of</strong> conflict resources <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g traceability issues, see: Beyond Conflict: Reconfigur<strong>in</strong>gApproaches to <strong>the</strong> Regional Trade <strong>in</strong> M<strong>in</strong>erals from <strong>the</strong> Eastern DRC.www.responsible<strong>jewellery</strong>.comThe Responsible Jewellery Council is <strong>the</strong> trad<strong>in</strong>g name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd, First Floor, Dudley House, 34‐38 Southampton Street, London, UK, WC2E 7HF.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd is registered <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Wales with company number 05449042.


3Driver 2 – Bus<strong>in</strong>ess to bus<strong>in</strong>ess<strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> may also be useful <strong>in</strong> a bus<strong>in</strong>ess to bus<strong>in</strong>ess context, as a means to protectreputation <strong>and</strong> to promote responsible bus<strong>in</strong>ess practices. For example, retailers may seekassurance about <strong>the</strong> orig<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong>/or process<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> products <strong>the</strong>y purchase, without necessarily mak<strong>in</strong>gcha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> or o<strong>the</strong>r claims when sell<strong>in</strong>g those products. This may be as a result <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>irbr<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g strategy, commitment to due diligence, <strong>and</strong>/or due to <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>herent complexity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>s.Similarly, cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems are already applied by many bus<strong>in</strong>esses <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong> sector<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r <strong>in</strong>dustries for quality control, safety <strong>and</strong> security purposes, to ensure that productmanufactur<strong>in</strong>g st<strong>and</strong>ards are met, even though no claim about cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> is made to <strong>the</strong>consumer. Experience by this <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r <strong>in</strong>dustries <strong>in</strong> manag<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>tegrity <strong>of</strong> complex <strong>supply</strong>cha<strong>in</strong>s may provide useful benchmarks for <strong>the</strong> design <strong>of</strong> a cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification system.5. Why <strong>the</strong> RJC?The RJC is well positioned hav<strong>in</strong>g established <strong>and</strong> agreed st<strong>and</strong>ards with an assurance system whichcovers responsible bus<strong>in</strong>ess practices across <strong>the</strong> entire <strong>jewellery</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> from m<strong>in</strong>e to retail.The RJC system, launched <strong>in</strong> 2009, certifies Members’ bus<strong>in</strong>ess practices, but it does not certifyproduct or its movement through <strong>the</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>. If developed, RJC cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certificationcould provide a common, mutually recognised, <strong>in</strong>dustry‐wide platform that could be accessed tosupport on‐product <strong>and</strong>/or bus<strong>in</strong>ess‐to‐bus<strong>in</strong>ess claims as to <strong>the</strong> sourc<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong>/or responsibleproduction <strong>of</strong> <strong>diamond</strong>s <strong>and</strong>/or <strong>gold</strong> <strong>and</strong>/or <strong>jewellery</strong>.The role <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> RJC would be to develop a st<strong>and</strong>ard for cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems <strong>and</strong> systems forassurance, via <strong>in</strong>dependent third party verification by accredited auditors, that <strong>the</strong> st<strong>and</strong>ard wasbe<strong>in</strong>g met. Ideally <strong>the</strong> st<strong>and</strong>ard would be developed such that <strong>the</strong> base requirements are agreed<strong>in</strong>ternationally as applicable generically across <strong>the</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>, but with flexibility forMembers <strong>and</strong> stakeholders to apply additional requirements for <strong>in</strong>dividual <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>s or specificpo<strong>in</strong>ts <strong>of</strong> orig<strong>in</strong>.The RJC recognises that while cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems can be a valuable strategy <strong>in</strong> response to arange <strong>of</strong> drivers, <strong>the</strong>y are not a panacea. Even a well‐designed cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> system can bedefeated if unscrupulous operators have <strong>the</strong> will <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> technical means to do so. However forlegitimate actors <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>, cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems can provide an important po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong>differentiation <strong>and</strong> confidence <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> bus<strong>in</strong>ess practices <strong>in</strong>volved <strong>in</strong> production.6. ChallengesDevelop<strong>in</strong>g a cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification system would present a number <strong>of</strong> challenges, some <strong>of</strong>which are <strong>in</strong>ter‐connected.Technical constra<strong>in</strong>ts. The physical characteristics <strong>of</strong> <strong>diamond</strong>s <strong>and</strong> <strong>gold</strong>, <strong>the</strong> extent <strong>of</strong>mix<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> products from different sources, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> overall complexity <strong>of</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>spresent many challenges for effective cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems. Stages <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>such as <strong>gold</strong> ref<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g, metals recycl<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> trade <strong>of</strong> smaller <strong>diamond</strong>s may presentunique technical <strong>and</strong>/or economic challenges.www.responsible<strong>jewellery</strong>.comThe Responsible Jewellery Council is <strong>the</strong> trad<strong>in</strong>g name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd, First Floor, Dudley House, 34‐38 Southampton Street, London, UK, WC2E 7HF.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd is registered <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Wales with company number 05449042.


4Cost. Systems <strong>and</strong> technologies are available to track <strong>diamond</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>gold</strong> products to a highlevel <strong>of</strong> precision, however <strong>the</strong> direct <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>direct cost <strong>of</strong> application <strong>of</strong> an RJC cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong><strong>custody</strong>st<strong>and</strong>ard needs to be commercially realistic.Scalability. Most cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> claims used <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>diamond</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>gold</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong> <strong>supply</strong>cha<strong>in</strong> operate at a relatively small scale, or “niche” level. This may be due to limitedavailability <strong>of</strong> qualify<strong>in</strong>g product, higher costs, <strong>and</strong> potential negative impacts on nonqualify<strong>in</strong>gproducts. However <strong>the</strong>re may be many opportunities to <strong>in</strong>crease flexibility <strong>and</strong>reduce costs through a cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification that can operate on a larger scale <strong>and</strong>be used by multiple parties for multiple product l<strong>in</strong>es.Meet<strong>in</strong>g expectations – un<strong>in</strong>tended consequences. <strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems may raiseseveral potential pitfalls which should be considered <strong>in</strong> develop<strong>in</strong>g a certification system.• Exclusion <strong>of</strong> certa<strong>in</strong> sources or jurisdictions may lead to fur<strong>the</strong>r deterioration <strong>of</strong>negative human rights or social conditions;• <strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> claims may be used to facilitate misrepresentations aboutresponsible practices;• <strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems can be compromised, potentially caus<strong>in</strong>g greaterreputational risks;• Offer<strong>in</strong>g products with cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> claims may have unduly negativeimplications for generic products;• Common expectations may be that any valid cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> claim must fall under<strong>the</strong> track‐<strong>and</strong>‐trace model (see below);• The development <strong>of</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification may create pressures forwidespread adoption beyond <strong>the</strong> capacities <strong>of</strong> some <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>s to adjust, orcreate perverse impacts.Political. Some NGOs <strong>and</strong> owners <strong>of</strong> exist<strong>in</strong>g cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems could view a systemdeveloped by <strong>the</strong> RJC as be<strong>in</strong>g threaten<strong>in</strong>g or not fulfill<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>ir own agendas. Howevero<strong>the</strong>r system <strong>and</strong> st<strong>and</strong>ard‐owners may be <strong>in</strong>terested <strong>in</strong> work<strong>in</strong>g with <strong>the</strong> RJC to develop an<strong>in</strong>dustry‐wide platform. Various national <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>ter‐governmental <strong>in</strong>itiatives are alsoemerg<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> this area.Legal. All activities must adhere to <strong>the</strong> RJC’s Anti‐trust Statement <strong>and</strong> Policy. For thisreason, <strong>the</strong> RJC cannot require cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification <strong>of</strong> its Members <strong>and</strong> anyst<strong>and</strong>ard developed will be voluntary. Because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> anti‐trust dimension <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se issuesfor <strong>the</strong> RJC, care will be needed to ensure that all communications on <strong>the</strong>se issues are clear.Implications for <strong>the</strong> RJC Br<strong>and</strong>. The development <strong>of</strong> a cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification systemcould have important implications for <strong>the</strong> RJC’s br<strong>and</strong>, which is focussed on responsiblebus<strong>in</strong>ess practices. A cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> system may potentially <strong>in</strong>clude facilities that are notwith<strong>in</strong> any RJC certification scope, or may not <strong>in</strong>volve any claims about responsible bus<strong>in</strong>esspractices. New rules <strong>and</strong> relationships would need to be established between <strong>the</strong> RJC as an<strong>in</strong>stitution, <strong>the</strong> RJC System, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification system.Size <strong>of</strong> task. A cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification system could cover <strong>and</strong>/or <strong>in</strong>terface with awide variety <strong>of</strong> models which have vary<strong>in</strong>g levels <strong>and</strong> types <strong>of</strong> claims. The st<strong>and</strong>ardsdevelopment <strong>and</strong> stakeholder engagement processes, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> ongo<strong>in</strong>g adm<strong>in</strong>istration <strong>of</strong>www.responsible<strong>jewellery</strong>.comThe Responsible Jewellery Council is <strong>the</strong> trad<strong>in</strong>g name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd, First Floor, Dudley House, 34‐38 Southampton Street, London, UK, WC2E 7HF.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd is registered <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Wales with company number 05449042.


5any result<strong>in</strong>g system, would require an <strong>in</strong>stitutional commitment <strong>of</strong> time <strong>and</strong> resources, withpotential risks <strong>and</strong> rewards.These <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r potential challenges would need to be considered <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> evaluation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> feasibility<strong>of</strong> an RJC cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification system.7. Gold <strong>and</strong> Diamond Jewellery Supply cha<strong>in</strong>The <strong>jewellery</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> can be thought <strong>of</strong> as a series <strong>of</strong> h<strong>and</strong>l<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> process<strong>in</strong>g stages that beg<strong>in</strong>with raw materials <strong>and</strong> end with f<strong>in</strong>al <strong>jewellery</strong> products sold to <strong>the</strong> consumer.The <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> for <strong>the</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry is complex <strong>and</strong> fragmented. Raw materials may comefrom many different types <strong>of</strong> sources <strong>in</strong> many different countries; <strong>the</strong>y may be sold several times,mixed, <strong>and</strong> converted <strong>in</strong>to new products before be<strong>in</strong>g sold to <strong>the</strong> end consumer.Figure 1 below illustrates <strong>the</strong> basic stages <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> support<strong>in</strong>g organisations.Figure 1 – Diamond <strong>and</strong> <strong>gold</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> – overviewThe <strong>gold</strong> market is much larger <strong>and</strong> more geographically diversified than <strong>diamond</strong>s. The <strong>gold</strong><strong>jewellery</strong> market is five times larger than <strong>diamond</strong>s at first cost (before any trade marg<strong>in</strong>s) <strong>and</strong> hasmajor volume markets <strong>in</strong> USA, Middle East, India <strong>and</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a. In addition, <strong>the</strong> role that <strong>gold</strong> has as ade facto currency mean that <strong>the</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> is usually more complicated than <strong>diamond</strong>s.At <strong>the</strong> micro level, <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>s for different <strong>jewellery</strong> products can vary considerably <strong>in</strong> scale,diversity, <strong>in</strong>tegration <strong>and</strong> potential drivers. Figures 2, 3 <strong>and</strong> 4 overleaf are hypo<strong>the</strong>tical examplesthat highlight <strong>the</strong> range <strong>of</strong> operators who might form <strong>the</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>s for products <strong>in</strong> three pricepo<strong>in</strong>ts. It should be noted that <strong>the</strong> <strong>gold</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> may be much more complex <strong>in</strong> reality than issuggested <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se examples.www.responsible<strong>jewellery</strong>.comThe Responsible Jewellery Council is <strong>the</strong> trad<strong>in</strong>g name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd, First Floor, Dudley House, 34‐38 Southampton Street, London, UK, WC2E 7HF.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd is registered <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Wales with company number 05449042.


6Figure 2,3 <strong>and</strong> 4 – Examples <strong>of</strong> different <strong>diamond</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>gold</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>sThe story <strong>of</strong> a <strong>diamond</strong> r<strong>in</strong>g: 18 K <strong>gold</strong>, 10 side stones, 1+ ct centre stone. £ 6,800 (approx. US$10,200)DiamondsMetalsCentre stone, 1+ ct 10 side stones, mixed sources Gold Silver, Copper, Plat<strong>in</strong>umM<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>gBotswana Russia Angola South Africa Peru, USA, South AfricaRough Trad<strong>in</strong>gProcess<strong>in</strong>gSold to DTC client,who sells to amanufacturer <strong>in</strong>AntwerpSold by Alrosa toa rough trader,<strong>the</strong>n sold to amanufacturerCutt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> Polish<strong>in</strong>gSold by Ascorp to amanufacturerM<strong>in</strong>e produces<strong>gold</strong> dore sent toref<strong>in</strong>er <strong>in</strong> Dubaito producebullionM<strong>in</strong>e concentrates sold tosmelters <strong>and</strong> ref<strong>in</strong>eries <strong>in</strong> variouslocationsTrad<strong>in</strong>gIsrael, <strong>the</strong>nconsigned directlyto retailer <strong>in</strong> USAIndia, reta<strong>in</strong>ed<strong>in</strong>‐houseArmenia, sold towholesaler <strong>in</strong>AntwerpBullion sold bybullion bank to<strong>gold</strong> dealerJewellery Manufactur<strong>in</strong>g, Thail<strong>and</strong>Metals sold to metals dealersSide stones sourced by manufacturer <strong>in</strong>house<strong>and</strong> from polished wholesaler converts to 18KManufacturer sources <strong>gold</strong> <strong>and</strong> metals from dealers,Manufacturer casts r<strong>in</strong>g, sets side stones <strong>and</strong> prongs <strong>in</strong>accordance with st<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g order, ships to retailer.Retailer mounts centre stone on r<strong>in</strong>g for sale to f<strong>in</strong>al customer. Payment made forcentre stone. F<strong>in</strong>al price <strong>of</strong> <strong>gold</strong> content determ<strong>in</strong>ed by spot price at time <strong>of</strong> sale.High proportion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> value is attributable to <strong>the</strong> rough <strong>diamond</strong> used for <strong>the</strong> centrestone.The story <strong>of</strong> a necklace: 10 K white <strong>gold</strong>, <strong>diamond</strong>s. US$249DiamondsMetals57 <strong>diamond</strong>s, mixed sources, average .004 ct. Gold SilverM<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>gAustralia Namibia South Africa Ch<strong>in</strong>a, variety <strong>of</strong> Canadam<strong>in</strong>esRough Trad<strong>in</strong>gProcess<strong>in</strong>gSold to Rio Sold to a DTC Sold to a DTC Ref<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a Lead m<strong>in</strong>e,T<strong>in</strong>to client / client, <strong>the</strong>n sold client /locally smelted <strong>and</strong>manufacturer to polished manufacturerref<strong>in</strong>edmanufacturerCutt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> Polish<strong>in</strong>gTrad<strong>in</strong>gRecycled from<strong>in</strong>dustrial scrapRef<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>in</strong> DubaiIndia India Ch<strong>in</strong>a Silver bullion sold to a metals dealer <strong>in</strong> Hong KongGold bullion traded through Shanghai Gold ExchangeJewellery Manufactur<strong>in</strong>g, Ch<strong>in</strong>aPolished manufacturer sources <strong>diamond</strong>s <strong>in</strong>‐house <strong>and</strong>from o<strong>the</strong>r manufacturers, <strong>and</strong> consigns to <strong>the</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong>manufacturer, a related companyJewellery manufacturer casts pendant, sets stones, manufacturescha<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> ships to retailer.Retailer stocks <strong>the</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>s as a separate <strong>in</strong>ventory item for use <strong>in</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r f<strong>in</strong>ished products.Relatively high proportion <strong>of</strong> value is attributable to cutt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong>polish<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong> manufactur<strong>in</strong>g.Jewellery manufacturer sources <strong>gold</strong> <strong>and</strong> silver, converts to 10K<strong>gold</strong>, us<strong>in</strong>g credit advanced by <strong>the</strong> retailer.www.responsible<strong>jewellery</strong>.comThe Responsible Jewellery Council is <strong>the</strong> trad<strong>in</strong>g name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd, First Floor, Dudley House, 34‐38 Southampton Street, London, UK, WC2E 7HF.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd is registered <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Wales with company number 05449042.


7The story <strong>of</strong> a set <strong>of</strong> 22K bracelets, 23,000 Indian Rs. (approx. US$500)M<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g, production <strong>of</strong> dore barsScrapSouth Africa Canada Indonesia Dubai IndiaGoldRef<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>gSouth Africa Switzerl<strong>and</strong> Dubai DubaiProduction <strong>of</strong> Dubai Good Delivery BarsTrad<strong>in</strong>gBars Traded at Dubai Commodities Exchange, exported to IndiaGold imported <strong>and</strong> purchased by Indian bankManufactur<strong>in</strong>gIndiaLocal workshops / retailers <strong>in</strong> India source <strong>gold</strong> from bank us<strong>in</strong>g bank credit <strong>and</strong>/or <strong>gold</strong> loans,fabricate <strong>and</strong> sell f<strong>in</strong>ished <strong>jewellery</strong> to consumersRetail sales based on spot price <strong>of</strong> <strong>gold</strong>.Very high proportion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> value is <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>gold</strong>content.Product <strong>and</strong> type <strong>of</strong> sale is representative <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>largest part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> global retail <strong>gold</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong>market.A key po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se examples is that <strong>the</strong> products <strong>of</strong> multiple <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>s, such as precious metals<strong>and</strong> gemstones, comb<strong>in</strong>e, transform <strong>and</strong> converge <strong>in</strong>to a s<strong>in</strong>gle (but highly diversified) product – a<strong>jewellery</strong> item for consumer sale. This creates a quite different cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> prospect than that<strong>of</strong> a s<strong>in</strong>gle‐provenance product (however processed) such as fish, paper or c<strong>of</strong>fee.8. <strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems – <strong>the</strong> four modelsThere is a wide range <strong>of</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems <strong>in</strong> operation across various <strong>in</strong>dustries <strong>and</strong> producttypes. These systems can be categorised <strong>in</strong>to four ma<strong>in</strong> models: track‐<strong>and</strong>‐trace, bulk‐commodity,mass‐balance, <strong>and</strong> book‐<strong>and</strong>‐claim.• Track‐<strong>and</strong>‐trace: traces product from source (producer, region or country), physicallysegregat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> track<strong>in</strong>g it through <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>s. Example: Mar<strong>in</strong>e Stewardship Council(MSC) fish.• Bulk‐commodity: physically segregates certified from non‐certified product to preventmix<strong>in</strong>g, but does not trace back to product orig<strong>in</strong>. Example: GMO <strong>and</strong> non‐GMO soybean.• Mass‐balance: each company keeps track <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> certified product it buys <strong>and</strong>sells. So while <strong>the</strong>re is no physical segregation, <strong>the</strong>re is adm<strong>in</strong>istrative segregation.Example: Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) credit system for mixed sources <strong>of</strong> paper.• Book‐<strong>and</strong>‐claim: The trade <strong>in</strong> physical products is completely decoupled from <strong>the</strong> trade <strong>in</strong>certificates. Usually a central ‘Issu<strong>in</strong>g Body’ is responsible for issu<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> redeem<strong>in</strong>g tradedcertificates. Example: renewable electricity.[Summarised from: Susta<strong>in</strong>able Biomass Scheme]All four are designed to drive improved production practices, though each model has differentmanagement approaches, impacts on markets <strong>and</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> relationships, <strong>and</strong> (consequently)levels <strong>of</strong> stakeholder credibility. Key issues <strong>in</strong>clude transparency <strong>and</strong> clarity <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> different productcertification claims to avoid confusion or deception.www.responsible<strong>jewellery</strong>.comThe Responsible Jewellery Council is <strong>the</strong> trad<strong>in</strong>g name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd, First Floor, Dudley House, 34‐38 Southampton Street, London, UK, WC2E 7HF.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd is registered <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Wales with company number 05449042.


89. Examples <strong>in</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong> <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r sectorsTo illustrate <strong>the</strong> diversity <strong>of</strong> approaches <strong>in</strong> different sectors, Table 1 provides an overview <strong>of</strong> a range<strong>of</strong> examples <strong>of</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems <strong>and</strong> claims, based on publicly available <strong>in</strong>formation.Comments are welcome to improve <strong>the</strong> accuracy <strong>of</strong> this table.Table 1 – Examples <strong>of</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> models <strong>in</strong> <strong>diamond</strong>s, <strong>gold</strong>, <strong>jewellery</strong> <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>sDiamonds<strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>-<strong>of</strong><strong>custody</strong>modelApproachCertify<strong>in</strong>g / claim<strong>in</strong>gthat ...CommentsKimberley Process /World Diamond CouncilSystem <strong>of</strong> WarrantiesForevermark (DeBeers)Canada Mark (BHPBilliton)Canadian DiamondCode <strong>of</strong> ConductGoldAlliance forResponsible M<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g –Fairm<strong>in</strong>ed / FairtradeGold from Artisanal <strong>and</strong>Small-Scale M<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g(ASM) (also silver <strong>and</strong>plat<strong>in</strong>um)Oro Verde – <strong>gold</strong> <strong>and</strong>plat<strong>in</strong>umRetailer direct sourc<strong>in</strong>g<strong>of</strong> <strong>gold</strong>Bulkcommodity(Entry throughKPCS signatorygovernments)Bulkcommodity(Proprietarybr<strong>and</strong>)Track-<strong>and</strong>-trace(Proprietarybr<strong>and</strong>)Track-<strong>and</strong>-trace(Entry to Codesignatories)Mass balance -m<strong>in</strong>imumst<strong>and</strong>ard.Bulkcommodity –Physicalsegregationpromoted.Track-<strong>and</strong>-trace“EcologicalGold”.(Open st<strong>and</strong>ardfor ASM m<strong>in</strong>ers)Track-<strong>and</strong>-trace(Proprietarybr<strong>and</strong> forartisanal m<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>gregion)Track-<strong>and</strong>-trace(Bus<strong>in</strong>essrelationship)Packages <strong>of</strong> stones certifiedby export<strong>in</strong>g governments tobe conflict-free. System <strong>of</strong>warranties cont<strong>in</strong>uesconflict-free warrantythrough <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>.Individual <strong>in</strong>scription onstones <strong>and</strong> identificationnumber used to identifystones through <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>to consumer.Individual <strong>in</strong>scription onstones <strong>and</strong> serial numberused to identify stones fromCanadian orig<strong>in</strong> through<strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> to consumer.Establishes a m<strong>in</strong>imumst<strong>and</strong>ard required to validatea Canadian Diamond claimbased on a paper trail <strong>and</strong> acha<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> warranties.All operators <strong>in</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>from m<strong>in</strong>e to consumer mustbe certified Fairtradeoperators to use Fairtradelabel. Documentarytraceability must be ensuredby any operator at any po<strong>in</strong>t<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>.Purchasers pay pricepremium on <strong>the</strong> LondonGold Price to <strong>the</strong> artisanalm<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g organisation.Local ref<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Medell<strong>in</strong>with physical segregation;some clients do subsequentref<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> raw <strong>gold</strong>.Certificate which attests to<strong>the</strong> orig<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> method <strong>of</strong>extraction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> metal.Website with certificatenumber entry.Retailer buys some or all <strong>of</strong>its <strong>gold</strong> needs from selectedm<strong>in</strong>es, with physicalsegregation dur<strong>in</strong>g ref<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>gstage achieved throughvertical <strong>in</strong>tegration.Diamonds are conflictfree.De Beers’ BestPractice Pr<strong>in</strong>ciplesapply throughout <strong>the</strong>pipel<strong>in</strong>e. Productquality.Canadian orig<strong>in</strong>.Canadian orig<strong>in</strong>.Fairtrade / Fairm<strong>in</strong>edproduction <strong>of</strong> ASMGold as per St<strong>and</strong>ardZero.Additional st<strong>and</strong>ardsapply to “EcologicalGold”, (eg <strong>gold</strong>extraction withoutchemicals <strong>and</strong> trac<strong>in</strong>gto known sourcesmall-scale m<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>garea).Fair trade <strong>and</strong>ecological criteria.Alluvial <strong>gold</strong> m<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>gtechniques.Known source.Some claims aboutpractices at source.Stones are not traced toorig<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> System <strong>of</strong>Warranties.While <strong>the</strong> Forevermarkcha<strong>in</strong>-<strong>of</strong>-<strong>custody</strong> systemuses track-<strong>and</strong>-trace<strong>in</strong>ternally, it does notidentify producers ororig<strong>in</strong>s <strong>in</strong> its claim toconsumersPortion <strong>of</strong> Ekati m<strong>in</strong>eproduction tracked stoneby stone. Not <strong>in</strong>tendedto be <strong>the</strong> f<strong>in</strong>al br<strong>and</strong>.O<strong>the</strong>r Canadian m<strong>in</strong>esare eligible.Voluntary Codedeveloped forcompliance with <strong>the</strong>Canadian CompetitionAct. Covers issues thatmay be relevant to RJC.Post-m<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>supply</strong>cha<strong>in</strong> will need to pay fortraceability costs.Where full compliance tophysical traceabilityrequirements imposesdisproportional costs,ref<strong>in</strong>ers <strong>and</strong>manufacturers may beexempt from thisrequirement. FirstFairtrade/Fairm<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>gold</strong>anticipated by end 2010.Small-scale production -approx 24kg <strong>gold</strong> <strong>and</strong>6kg plat<strong>in</strong>um per annum.Likely to becomecertified underARM/FLO system.Examples: Cartiersources some <strong>of</strong> its <strong>gold</strong>from Eurocantera, whichm<strong>in</strong>es <strong>in</strong> Honduras <strong>and</strong>has a group ref<strong>in</strong>ery <strong>in</strong>Europe. Tiffany & Copurchases all <strong>of</strong> its <strong>gold</strong>from B<strong>in</strong>gham Canyon,www.responsible<strong>jewellery</strong>.comThe Responsible Jewellery Council is <strong>the</strong> trad<strong>in</strong>g name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd, First Floor, Dudley House, 34‐38 Southampton Street, London, UK, WC2E 7HF.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd is registered <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Wales with company number 05449042.


9Jewellery <strong>supply</strong>cha<strong>in</strong>sLeber Jeweler Inc. –Earthwise JewelryOpen Source M<strong>in</strong>erals /Jeweltree Foundation /Wishes JewelsWalmart - Love, EarthO<strong>the</strong>r sectorsForest StewardshipCouncil (FSC) – <strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong><strong>of</strong> <strong>custody</strong> certificationMar<strong>in</strong>e StewardshipCouncil (MSC) – <strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong><strong>of</strong> <strong>custody</strong> certificationTrack-<strong>and</strong>-trace(Proprietaryretail br<strong>and</strong>)Track-<strong>and</strong>-trace(Proprietarybus<strong>in</strong>ess-tobus<strong>in</strong>essbr<strong>and</strong><strong>and</strong> retail br<strong>and</strong>)Track-<strong>and</strong>-trace(Proprietaryretail br<strong>and</strong>)Mass balance –m<strong>in</strong>imumst<strong>and</strong>ardBulkcommodityTrack-<strong>and</strong>-trace(Open st<strong>and</strong>ardfor forestproducts <strong>supply</strong>cha<strong>in</strong>)BulkcommodityGold purchased from USbasedmicro-ref<strong>in</strong>er as f<strong>in</strong>ecast<strong>in</strong>g gra<strong>in</strong>s. Canadian<strong>diamond</strong>s purchased withcertificate <strong>of</strong> orig<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong>laser-<strong>in</strong>scription (except forsmallest stones). Jewelrycan be custom-designed.Jewelry is sold to customerswith Earthwise JewelryCertificate detail<strong>in</strong>gprovenance.Precious metals <strong>and</strong>gemstones are sourced toorig<strong>in</strong>, <strong>and</strong> practices areverified where possible.Assessment frameworkdeveloped for cutt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong>polish<strong>in</strong>g factories. OpenSource M<strong>in</strong>erals is <strong>the</strong>trad<strong>in</strong>g company; JeweltreeFoundation facilitates <strong>the</strong>certification <strong>of</strong> source <strong>and</strong>practices <strong>in</strong> co-operationwith IPIS. Onl<strong>in</strong>e certificateaccess.Each piece <strong>of</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong>carries a tag with a codewhich is unique to amanufactured batch, <strong>and</strong>each item with<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> batch isidentical. Consumers canenter <strong>the</strong> batch code <strong>in</strong>to awebsite to trace <strong>the</strong>production. M<strong>in</strong>ers <strong>and</strong>manufacturers record batchleveltraceability detailsonl<strong>in</strong>e through a platformmanaged by HistoricFutures.FSC cha<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>custody</strong> tracksFSC certified materialthrough all stages <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>production process - from<strong>the</strong> forest to <strong>the</strong> consumer.Only FSC <strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong> <strong>of</strong> Custodycertified operators can labelproducts with FSCtrademarks (FSC Pure, FSCMixed <strong>and</strong> FSC Recycled).There are detailed systemsfor manag<strong>in</strong>g percentagebasedclaims <strong>in</strong> differentproduct types.To sell seafood with an MSCecolabel, all companies <strong>in</strong><strong>the</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> fromRecycled postconsumer<strong>gold</strong>.Canadian orig<strong>in</strong><strong>diamond</strong>s.Traceable goods: Fairtrade <strong>gold</strong> <strong>and</strong>plat<strong>in</strong>um from OroVerde.Known source <strong>of</strong><strong>diamond</strong>s, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>gmelee. Polish<strong>in</strong>gfactories auditedaga<strong>in</strong>st labourst<strong>and</strong>ards <strong>and</strong>applicable law.Known source <strong>and</strong><strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong><strong>in</strong>dividual pieces,batch manufactured.M<strong>in</strong>es <strong>and</strong>manufacturers meetWalmart’s st<strong>and</strong>ards<strong>and</strong> criteria forresponsible sourc<strong>in</strong>g.Source <strong>in</strong>cludesmaterial from a forestthat conforms withFSC ForestManagementSt<strong>and</strong>ard (or FSCControlled Wood /FSC ReclaimedMaterial for mixedsources); <strong>and</strong> all steps<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>conform with FSCcha<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>custody</strong>st<strong>and</strong>ard.Source is an MSCcertified fishery thatconforms with MSCUSA which has its ownon-site ref<strong>in</strong>ery.Example <strong>of</strong> small retailjeweller directpurchas<strong>in</strong>g recycled<strong>gold</strong> <strong>and</strong> knownprovenancegemstones.Recycled <strong>gold</strong> can betraced from ref<strong>in</strong>er stage(ref<strong>in</strong>er = producer).Example <strong>of</strong> small trad<strong>in</strong>g/ distribution companyestablished to sourceknown-provenance<strong>jewellery</strong> components<strong>and</strong>/or <strong>jewellery</strong> madefrom those components;also establishedcertify<strong>in</strong>g body <strong>and</strong>onl<strong>in</strong>e retail br<strong>and</strong>.Example <strong>of</strong> largediversified retailer’s<strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> approachfor one product l<strong>in</strong>e.Partnership betweenWalmart, Rio T<strong>in</strong>to,Newmont M<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g,Auraf<strong>in</strong> (<strong>gold</strong> <strong>jewellery</strong>manufactur<strong>in</strong>g), InterGold (<strong>gold</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>diamond</strong><strong>jewellery</strong> manufactur<strong>in</strong>garm <strong>of</strong> Rosy Blue),ConservationInternational (NGO), <strong>and</strong>Historic Futures(trac<strong>in</strong>g).Different certificationmodels are available –site-based; groupcertification for smallenterprises; multi-site forlarge enterprises; projectbased (eg for build<strong>in</strong>gprojects). These aim toreduce barriers toaccess <strong>and</strong> costs.FSC Controlled Wood<strong>and</strong> Reclaimed Materialst<strong>and</strong>ards provide anoption to use materialfrom non-certifiedforests or reclaimedmaterial.MSC certification <strong>of</strong>fisheries is conceptuallyequivalent to RJCwww.responsible<strong>jewellery</strong>.comThe Responsible Jewellery Council is <strong>the</strong> trad<strong>in</strong>g name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd, First Floor, Dudley House, 34‐38 Southampton Street, London, UK, WC2E 7HF.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd is registered <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Wales with company number 05449042.


10Track-<strong>and</strong>-trace- where wholefish or seafoodis sold toconsumers with<strong>in</strong>formation onfishery or region.(Open st<strong>and</strong>ardfor seafood<strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>)certified fishery to consumer(‘boat to plate’) must haveMSC <strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong> <strong>of</strong> Custodycertification. Certified fishmust be physicallysegregated from noncertifiedfish. Every C <strong>of</strong> Ccertified company is given aunique code to use whenpurchas<strong>in</strong>g from anapproved supplier.environmentalst<strong>and</strong>ard forsusta<strong>in</strong>able fish<strong>in</strong>g;<strong>and</strong> all steps <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> conformwith MSC cha<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong><strong>custody</strong> st<strong>and</strong>ard forseafood traceability.certification <strong>of</strong> Memberbus<strong>in</strong>ess practices. In<strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> MSC, <strong>the</strong>certification <strong>of</strong> bus<strong>in</strong>esspractices is only forproducers (<strong>the</strong>fisheries). Unlike FSC,mix<strong>in</strong>g certified with non-MSC certified fish is notallowed under MSCecolabel.The above table illustrates that <strong>the</strong>re is a wide variety <strong>of</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> systems <strong>and</strong> models <strong>in</strong>use. An RJC cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification system will need to consider this variety <strong>and</strong> howdifferent models might be addressed.10. <strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification – some parameters for RJCIn general terms, a cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification system should meet at least <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g criteria:• Robust. A certification st<strong>and</strong>ard should be capable <strong>of</strong> address<strong>in</strong>g a wide variety <strong>of</strong> types <strong>of</strong>systems <strong>and</strong> technologies, <strong>and</strong> types <strong>of</strong> claims.• Compliant with anti‐trust laws ‐ no restra<strong>in</strong>t on competition.• Reasonable cost <strong>of</strong> implementation.• Auditable.• Clear <strong>and</strong> transparent st<strong>and</strong>ards, verification system <strong>and</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> claim.More specifically, development <strong>of</strong> an RJC cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification would need to considervarious parameters that would frame its scope. Each row <strong>in</strong> Table 2 provides potential options forsome <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> parameters <strong>of</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> claims. Each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se options could be <strong>in</strong>cluded orexcluded from RJC cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification – some are not mutually exclusive.Table 2 – <strong>Cha<strong>in</strong></strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐Custody Certification Scope ‐ Options MatrixElementPotential OptionsOrig<strong>in</strong> Individual m<strong>in</strong>e(s) Region or country M<strong>in</strong>e Ownership RecycledModel Track <strong>and</strong> trace Bulk commodity Mass balance O<strong>the</strong>rCertification <strong>of</strong>responsiblepracticesM<strong>in</strong>imumcoverage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>Certification (RJCor o<strong>the</strong>r) for allstagesAll steps, m<strong>in</strong>e toretail (Bus<strong>in</strong>ess toConsumer)Certification (RJC oro<strong>the</strong>r) for somestagesAll prior steps(Bus<strong>in</strong>ess toBus<strong>in</strong>ess)Certification (RJCor o<strong>the</strong>r) atorig<strong>in</strong> onlyOne up / onedownCompany us<strong>in</strong>g cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong><strong>custody</strong>claim withconsumers must be RJCMemberOrig<strong>in</strong> onlyProportion <strong>of</strong>f<strong>in</strong>al product100% <strong>of</strong> acomponentPercentage <strong>of</strong> acomponentEntire <strong>jewellery</strong>itemCerta<strong>in</strong> components <strong>of</strong> a<strong>jewellery</strong> itemClaimanteligibilityOpen to any entityeligible to jo<strong>in</strong> RJCRJC Members only O<strong>the</strong>r criteriaAllowable claimsAllowable claimsdef<strong>in</strong>ed by RJCClaims open to userdef<strong>in</strong>ition, butverified by systemO<strong>the</strong>rwww.responsible<strong>jewellery</strong>.comThe Responsible Jewellery Council is <strong>the</strong> trad<strong>in</strong>g name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd, First Floor, Dudley House, 34‐38 Southampton Street, London, UK, WC2E 7HF.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd is registered <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Wales with company number 05449042.


11There are pros <strong>and</strong> cons for exclud<strong>in</strong>g or <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g each option <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>se will be discussed <strong>in</strong> detail<strong>in</strong> future work by <strong>the</strong> RJC. Design<strong>in</strong>g several cha<strong>in</strong>‐<strong>of</strong>‐<strong>custody</strong> certification levels could beconsidered, to take account <strong>of</strong> different drivers.11. Feedback welcomeThe RJC <strong>in</strong>vites comment <strong>and</strong> feedback on this discussion paper to:Email: consultation@responsible<strong>jewellery</strong>.comFax: +61 3 9874 3243 (Australia) or +44 (0)20 7240 5150 (London)Telephone: +44 (0)20 7836 6376 (London)The comment period for this paper is from Monday April 19 to Friday June 18. Feedback will betaken <strong>in</strong>to account <strong>in</strong> consider<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> activities <strong>and</strong> potential timel<strong>in</strong>es <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> next stage <strong>of</strong><strong>in</strong>vestigations.www.responsible<strong>jewellery</strong>.comThe Responsible Jewellery Council is <strong>the</strong> trad<strong>in</strong>g name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd, First Floor, Dudley House, 34‐38 Southampton Street, London, UK, WC2E 7HF.The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd is registered <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Wales with company number 05449042.

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