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central iowa's guide to all things diningAn issue dedicated to turkeyLook inside for dining ideas, profiles and a guide of restaurant listingswww.dmcityview.com/relish WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong> 1


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the PLACESSam & Gabe’s Italian BistroAt Sam & Gabe’s they specialize in homemade,northern Italian cuisine, high-touchservice and menu-friendly prices. Enjoy yourmeal in our warm, intimate candlelit diningsetting or book your next event or party inthe party room. We have live music Mon.-Sat. Enjoy our delicious pizza in our loungeMon.-Thur. 8631 Hickman Road, Urbandale.271-9200. www.samandgabes.com.Tumea & SonsTumea & Sons is a Des Moines southsidelandmark. It has been serving up greatItalian cuisine since its opening in 1998.Stop in for lunch or dinner to enjoy abundantbowls of pasta, fresh rolls and wideselection of delicious homemade Italiandishes in a casual, relaxed atmosphere.1501 SE 1st St., Des Moines. 282-7964.www.tumeaandsons.com.MexicanSeafoodSplash Seafood Bar & GrillSplash Seafood Bar & Grill is a great placeto enjoy fresh sh, oysters and hand-cutsteaks all in a fun and vibrant surroundingright in downtown Des Moines. Visit ouroyster bar for some of the freshest originalmenu items or our famous clam chowder.303 Locust St. #100, Des Moines. 244-5686. www.splash-seafood.com.RELISHthe juices and avors. All our steaks areseasoned with black pepper, salt and nishedwith a touch of smoked garlic butter.2601 Adventureland Drive, Altoona. 957-9727. www.jethrosdesmoines.comJohn and Nick’sEnjoy the famous 60 item salad bar forlunch or dinner at John and Nick’s. Enjoy avariety of menu items including sandwiches,steak, seafood, pork chops, chickenand the house specialty, prime rib. Johnand Nick’s cozy atmoshphere and deliciousfood will make your dining experience unforgettable.15970 Hickman Road, Clive.987-<strong>11</strong>51. www.johnandnicks.com.Dos RiosDos Rios Cantina and Tequila Lounge isconveniently located in the entertainmentdistrict across from the skywalk on CourtAvenue in downtown Des Moines. Fromafter-work margaritas to a esta-friendlylunch, dinner or event, Dos Rios has earneda place among Des Moines’ hot spots. Letthe celebration at Dos Rios begin. 316Court Ave., Des Moines. 282-2995. www.dosriosrestaurant.com.El Blue BurritoEl Blue Burrito is now serving the nest,authentic Mexican food in Des Moines. Itis open for both lunch and dinner sevendays a week. With a beautiful restaurant,you will certainly enjoy eating in or takinga meal on the go. The location is convenientto Downtown lunch diners and isopen late night Fridays and Saturdays to3a.m. to accommodate those hungry afterthe bars close. Located next door to LaTapatia Mexican Grocery Store, 1434 DesMoines St, Des Moines. 265-8660. www.elblueburrito.comLa HaciendaWe have two convenient Des Moines locationsserving great authentic Mexican dishes.900 E. Army Post Road, Des Moines.256-8901. 3121 Ingersoll Ave., DesMoines. 255-9059. www.lahaciendamexicanrestaurant.com.SteakhouseAJ’s SteakhouseLocated at Prairie Meadows Racetrack andCasino, AJ’s Steakhouse features awesomeIowa steaks and chops, seafood, pasta andthe best prime rib in town. The atmosphereis elegant, but never stuffy. From boots tosuits, this is your place for great steak.I-80, Exit 142, Altoona. 957-3535. www.prairiemeadows.com.Iowa Beef SteakhouseOpen seven days a week, you can enjoythe nest steaks central Iowa has to offer.Voted No. 1 Steak House in Des Moines bythe 2009 Iowa Beef Backer Award and “BestOf” award winner for Best Steak House in2005 by Cityview readers. Choose from ahuge selection of cuts and cook your ownor we’ll cook it for you. All dinners includesalad bar, baked potato and garlic bread.Located just two blocks west of E. 14th onEuclid Ave. 1201 E. Euclid Ave. 262-<strong>11</strong>38.www.iowabeefsteakhouse.com.Jethro n’ Jake’s Smokehouse SteaksNow in Altoona. Still at Drake. No Australianor Texan spoken here. These steaksare corn fed, Iowa raised, USDA Choicemeat, hickory smoked over a campre andbroiled to perfection in our 1,600 degreeJethro ‘n Jake’s re machine. This seals inTexas RoadhouseOur hand-cut steaks, award winning ribs,fresh baked bread and made from scratchitems are all standard at Texas Roadhouse.But we’re not just serving steaks. We havea full menu of ribs, chicken dishes, sh,salads and lots more and can satisfy almostany appetite. 8744 Northpark Drive,Johnston. 251-4597. www.texasroadhouse.com.Wine & SpiritsCasa di VinoDistinctively eclectic, Casa di Vino carriesmore than 700 hand-selected wines fromacross the globe. Specializing in food/winepairings, the owner is always on hand toanswer questions and provide recommendations.CDV has many interesting recipesavailable both in-shop as well as online.Check out www.casadivinowine.com forscheduled tastings, recipes and a link toour Des Moines Wine and Food Connectionblog. Conveniently located in Johnston.253-9463. www.casadivino.com. RELISH26WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong>www.dmcityview.com/relish


the PLACESIowa CubsOpening season is just around the corner. It’stime to put winter behind us and start lookingforward to warmer weather and greatIowa Cubs baseball. Opening night is April15. Call now for season tickets, group outings,skyboxes, and more. 515-243-5<strong>11</strong>1.1-800-GO-ICUBS. www.iowacubs.com.Fine DiningBosBos features unique selections and traditionalfavorites with a contemporary air.We pride ourselves on featuring local productswhenever possible. Enjoy the magnicentwine collection or try one of ourspecialty cocktails. A private dining room isavailable to accommodate up to 36 guests.Located downtown near the Civic Centerand Wells Fargo Arena with access to theskywalk. 4th & Locust. 284-1BOS. www.bosdemoines.com.SbroccoSbrocco is Des Moines’s best one-stop-shopfor all things wine. We are a neighborhoodrestaurant, wine bar and wine shop in aninformal, yet sophisticated setting. ChefAndrew Meek has created a menu that emphasizedfresh and local foods, carefullyprepared and matched with excellent winesand terric service. 208 Court Ave., DesMoines. 282-3663. www.sbroccowine.com.Trostel’s DishYou’ll love the unique dining experience offeredat this restaurant. Small dishes withfresh avors from around the world, pluswine and cheese ights. Private dining areafor business meetings or intimate gatherings.Dinner: Monday – Saturday. Openfor lunch Monday-Friday <strong>11</strong> a.m. - 2 p.m.Call for reservations for six or more. 12854University Ave., Ste. 400, Clive. 221-DISH.www.dishtrostels.com.Trostel’s GreenbriarTrostel’s Greenbriar is offering a SaturdayNight Special (starting Jan. 22) that will enticeall meat lovers... Slow Roasted PrimeRib au Jus, Country Hash Brown Potatoes,Chef’s Seasonal Vegetable, House GardenSalad...$22 special price. Plus a House Redor White Wine in a Bottomless Glass...$8.The Regular Dinner Menu is also offered.Reservations accepted for any size group.Call 253-0124.Food & RestaurantProductsBD HILL WOOD Restorations LLCI focus on restaurant wood table tops, woodbar tops, wood ledges and wood edges torestore the original look your restaurantdeserves. No down time with any restoredarea. Areas restored the night prior are dryand ready for normal use the very next daybefore <strong>11</strong> a.m. Nothing is moved, no tablesare removed from restaurant. Equipmentis dust free, and materials are non-toxic. Iprovide a three-year guarantee that my restoredareas will keep their restored look.References available. www.bdhillwood.com. 991-9250.Bolton and HayEstablished in 1920, Bolton & Hay is alocally-owned and family-operated foodserviceequipment business. Whether youare a large scale institution, contract foodservice provider, ve-star full-service nedining restaurant, a fast food casual quickservediner or a person who just enjoyscooking, “We can really make you cook.”2701 Delaware Ave., Des Moines. 265-2554. www.boltonhay.com.Law EquipmentServes all your restaurant, food service andbar equipment needs. New and used equipment,smallwares and glasswares in stock.Full line dealer. If we don’t have it, we canget it. Ground up design services available.Special orders welcome from one piece tocomplete build out. Law Equipment, 10095Hickman Court, Ste. B, Clive. 334-5036.www.lawequipment.comIndianIndia StarStop by India Star and enjoy the avorsof some of the best Indian Cuisine in DesMoines. Lunch buffet Monday – Saturdayfrom <strong>11</strong>:15 a.m. - 2:15 p.m. Dinner 5 -9:30 p.m. 5514 Douglas Ave., 279-2<strong>11</strong>8.www.indiastardm.com.ItalianRELISHBiaggi’s Ristorante ItalianoBiaggi’s is a fun, casual, white-tableclothrestaurant that offers an extensive menufeaturing a full selection of house-madeand imported pasta, soups, salads, pizza,seafood, fresh sh, chicken, veal, steaksand desserts. Fresh. Affordable. Italian.5990 University Ave., West Des Moines.221-9900. www.biaggis.com.Gino’s West GlenAn Italian family tradition for nearly 45years. Our classic menu features Steak,Prime Rib, Chicken, Seafood, Pasta andmuch more. We serve lunch daily startingat <strong>11</strong>am. We have an extensive wine listand on Thursday’s you can purchase anybottle of wine at ½ price. Wednesday’s are$5 martini’s all day and night. We featurelive music Thur-Sat. We have a trendy barwith a fun restaurant atmosphere. Pleasecall 226-2320. Located in the West Glenshopping district in West Des Moines. www.ginosfoods.com.Noah’s Ark RistoranteNoah’s Ark Ristorante has been a wellknownIngersoll tradition for decades. Itoffers a comfortable, relaxed, inviting atmospherecombined with a friendly andhelpful staff. Serving up a full menu of deliciousItalian cuisine you are sure to ndsomething you love. 2400 Ingersoll Ave.,Des Moines. 288-2246.www.dmcityview.com/relish WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong> 25


the PLACESAmericanBig City Burgers and GreensLocated on the rst level in Capital Squarein Downtown Des Moines, Big City is fresh,healthy and socially responsible. Servinglocal meats and greens, using organic beefand free-range poultry and being one of Iowa’srst 100% compostable restaurants,Big City is “green.” Catering also available.400 Locust Street, Suite 195, Des Moines,515-537-8433 Order Online www.BigCity-BurgersAndGreens.com.Boston’sBoston’s has the winning combination ofa full-service dining room and a sportsbar, all under one roof. It has one of themost extensive menus in the area, andare open late seven days a week, with fullmenu served until close. TVs are placedall around the restaurant and sports bar,making it the perfect place to watch thegame, or bring your family for dinner. Thisis a place with a cheerful and upbeat atmospherethat keeps customers coming back.Take out, delivery and party-to-go servicesare available. 12401 University Ave., Clive.440-6051. www.bostons.comClub CarAt the Club Car we’ve been serving hungryappetites for more than 14 years. Décorof railroad memorabilia, original framedposters, model train cars and signs adornour walls. Menu includes appetizers, salads,sandwiches, burgers, pastas, seafood,chicken, pork and gluten-free dishes. Openfor lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday.13435 University Ave., Clive. 226-1729. www.clubcardining.com.West End DinerWith our ’50s style décor, we serve freshangus burgers, sandwiches, salads, meatloaf,turkey, chicken, steaks, ribs and ouraward-winning chili. Breakfast served allday. Dine inside or on our new patio. Dinnerspecials offered every day. Mon-Sat6:30 a.m. - 10:30 p.m. Sunday 6:30 a.m. -9:30 p.m. Located in the Valley West Inn at3535 Westown Parkway, West Des Moines,222-3131. www.westenddiner.com.24WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong>AsianSakari Sushi LoungeSakari Sushi Lounge is the newest sushibar in Des Moines. Sakari offers the freshestand most tasteful rolls and appetizers.The inviting atmosphere and friendly staffwill make your dining experience a remarkableone, whether for lunch or dinner. Meetyour friends after work at Sakari’s happyhour, 5-7 p.m. Monday-Thursday, featuring$4 house rolls, $2 Kirin drafts, domesticbottled beer and sake bombs. 2605 IngersollAve. www.sakarisushilounge.com.515.288.3381.www.dmcityview.com/relishBBQJethro’s BBQIf you’re looking for some of the best BBQin town, this Drake neighborhood sportsbar is the place to go. Jethro’s racked upthe awards in Cityview’s 2009 “Best Of”readers’ poll winning Best BBQ and runnerupfor Best Sports Bar, Chicken Wings andNew Restaurant. Serving ribs, pork, beefbrisket, whole chickens, and turkey that issmoked daily in our 750 lb. capacity smoker.Stop by and see why we are the best.3102 Forest Ave., Des Moines, 279-3300.www.jethrosdesmoines.com.Uncle Wendells’s BBQ“A word-of-mouth legend.” They do qualitypig butts and beef brisket sandwichesmade on fresh challah. The subtle but insistentsmoke and sweet spice from the killerrub embolden the ribs. They’re suck-offthe-boneirresistible. Voted Cityview “BestOf” Winner in 2010. Catering, dine-in andtake-out. 2716 Ingersoll Ave., Des Moines.228-3207. www.unclewendells.com.Woody’s Smoke ShackSweet Tea isn’t just for Southerner’s. Stepinto Woody’s Smoke Shack where authenticsouthern BBQ and down home valuescollide. The complimentary corn bread andaward winning Baby Back Ribs will have youlicking your ngers for days. Also offered:Texas Style Sliced Beef Brisket, Hand PulledSmoked Pork, Smoked Chicken and a TwiceSmoked Pit Ham that will make you Squeal.Pair your meat with our favorite side disheslike Cheesy Potatoes, Jalapeno Grits, CollardGreens or try our daily specials. Rememberto save room for some homemade pie. VisitWoody’s Smoke Shack and nd your BBQ“home”. Grab a rack at the SHACK and youwill ALWAYS come back. 515-277-0005.25<strong>11</strong> Cottage Grove, Des Moines. woody@woodyssmokeshack.com.CateringCateringDSMCatering DSM, located in Capital Square inDowntown Des Moines, offers a full rangeof catering services, and cuisine options.With partnerships with venues such as DosRios and Big City Burgers and Greens, CateringDSM can do it all; from playoff partiesto ofce parties to wedding receptions.Contact us to plan your next event! 400Locust Street, Suite 193, Des Moines, 515-508-0829 www.CateringDSM.com.DeliPalmer’s DeliA consistent winner in Cityview’s “Best Of”voting for the past seven years. We featurethe best in deli meats and homemadesoups and salads. We have an extensivelunch and catering menu and feature animpressive breakfast menu at our Ingersolllocation only. We have ve locations in themetro area. Now you can order online. ThePalmer’s Catering + Event Planning teamcan help you plan whatever event youdream up. Big or small, social or corporate.We can orchestrate everything from quietdinners to raucous estas for hundreds.Please visit our website for more information,www.palmersdeliandmarket.com.FamilyRELISHChipsIndulge yourself with an oak-red pizza atthe lakeside location, or treat your friendsand family to their world-famous rotisseriechicken and complimentary “chips.” Partyrooms available for special events. Lunchand dinner served seven days a week.2502 S.E. Tones Drive, Ankeny. 964-2<strong>11</strong>2.www.chipsrestaurant.com.


the FEATUREFamily traditionfor more than40 years!www.iowaturkey.orgRELISHTamales made with turkey lard and turkey meat were partof festivals that later became The Day of the Dead.Turkey stock is catching on with top chefs beyondIowa. Celebrity chefs Michael Rulhman and Paul Bertollitout its superiority to chicken broth, particularlyfor risotto and jook (Chinese rice congee). Severalrestaurant consultants think the next big turkey applicationto invade America will come from Israel. Israelisconsume far more turkey than any other nationality(22 pounds a year per capita compared to 17in the U.S.). Most all turkey in Israel though is consumedas either schnitzel (think pork tenderloins withturkey) or at shawarma (gyros) stands, where it’s cutoff the outside of a rotisserie style spit and served onlafa (pita) with amba (mango pickle). Turkey outsellsall other meats at shwarma stands in Israel and isgaining popularity in other Middle Eastern countries.Do you think turkey is strictly for savory applications?Not in this age of bacon mania. JenStrauss at Carefree Patisserie uses turkey bacon inher brownies.“Turkey bacon is leaner and works much betterin brownie mixes than any other kind of bacon,”she explained.Old notions about wine with turkey are becomingobsolete, too. KFMG Wine Gal Abbe Hendricks (GatewayMarket) thinks that the traditional pairing withchardonnay is a knee jerk misunderstanding.“Depending on whether the drinker prefers whiteor red wines, I’d much rather go with a Syrah, redor rose, or a Pinot Blanc. Syrah’s earthy and fruitytones bring out turkey avors, and Pinot Blanc has afuller body but is more focused. Its low acidity worksreally well with turkey,” Hendricks said. RELISHBuon Appetito!Classic menu featuring Steak • Prime RibChicken • Seafood • Pasta and more!WEST GLEN• LIVE MUSICThursday–Saturday 7–10pm• Serving LUNCH DAILYStarting at <strong>11</strong>am• MARTINI WEDNESDAY$5 all day!• VINO THURSDAYAll bottles of wine are 1/2 price all day!Extensive wine listEnjoyGino’s OwnPrivate LabelWine!Follow us onand@ginosinwestglenWEST GLEN TOWN CENTER • 5513 Mills Civic Pkwy. • WDM • 226-2320 • www.ginosfoods.comwww.dmcityview.com/relish WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong> 23


the FEATUREtion into the afterlife. Even today, most of America’sturkey exports go to Mexico.At Tamales Industry in Des Moines, Chef M. AngelicaTejada makes tamales with pulled turkey stuffedinside her unique masa (corn meal), which she handgrinds coarsely in the kitchen exclusively with whitecorn. Her masa is steamed inside cornhusks and hasa very different avor and texture from typical neground, yellow masa. Tejeda’s tamales are servedwith both red and green chile salsa. In 20<strong>11</strong>, her restaurantis adding corundas to their repertoire. Thosetriangular-shaped corn our dumplings are made withturkey or chicken stock and usually eaten with soup.Their culinary history goes back to the PurhepechaIndians. They are a wonderful Iowa-Michoacan takeon tortellini en brood, which made Bologna famous.Shad Kirton and Darren Warth (Cityview FoodDude’s “Restaurateurs of the Year”) treat turkey withreverence. They smoke both 4-pound breasts and 12-14 pound whole birds at their Smokey D’s Barbecue.Kirton, who won the $100,000 Pitmaster Challengeon national TV last year, reminds home cooks to usethe entire turkey. “Carcasses make great stock, soup,turkey and noodles,” he said. He makes “turkey pinwheels”with cream cheese, chipotle hot sauce, slawand smoked turkey stuffed in a our tortilla. They arerolled and sliced into nger food sized pieces. Shadbrines his turkeys in salt, sugar and Montreal Seasonings(black pepper, red pepper, onion, garlic, fennel,thyme and rosemary). They are a super value at$39.95.Baru chef David Baruthio (Cityview Food Dude’s“2010 Chef of the Year”) likes using inexpensive turkeylegs instead of beef or pork in his personal takeon braccioli — savory rolls that can be cut like sausagerings.“I de-bone the legs with the skin on, soak themin milk, add a little sage and dried cranberries. ThenI blend cream with eggs and mix that together withbreading, and season it with sage and thyme, shallotsand brandy. Lay it down, roll it all together. Tieit up and brush it with olive oil. Cook it, cool it andrefrigerate it,” he explained.Centro’s George Formaro (a James Beard Awardseminalist four years in a row) thinks turkey contis one of the best-kept secrets in cooking.“You don’t miss duck at all when you make turkeycont, and it doesn’t cost nearly as much money. It’sfabulous stuffed in pasta — ravioli or tortellini. Probablythe most popular employee meal in our kitchens(South Union, Gateway, Django and Centro) iswww.iowaturkey.orgRELISHDavid Baruthio makes a braccioli-like dish with turkey legsinstead of beef or pork.‘turkey cont tacos.’ In fact, turkey cont lends itselfperfectly to tacos,” Formaro said.He added that Centro also serves homemade turkeybratwurst and homemade turkey sausages ontheir brunch menu.“Turkey makes fabulous sausage. It acts like duckat a fraction the cost. I think you can substitute turkeyfor duck, or pork, in almost any application. Thereally cool thing about it is that you can manipulatethe dark and white meats to change the avor andtexture. I use turkey instead of veal in scallopine andpicatta. Both those recipes incidentally are way easierto make at home with turkey than they are withveal,” he added.Formaro’s favorite turkey application is also mucheasier with turkey. “I love making osso buco withturkey legs. Just have the legs butchered like anosso buco shank, braise them and serve them withpolenta or cous cous,” he said.Smearing the BirdCyd Koehn of Hy-Vee Conference Center and Cyd’sCatering has been getting rave reviews for a recipeshe started making to use leftover turkey parts.“Turkey smears are fabulous. I just roast the livers,gizzards, necks and hearts and toss them alltogether in a food processor with roasted garlic, wildmushrooms, thyme and espresso salt from All Spice(sea salt smoked with dark roasted coffee beans),then sautée in butter, turkey stock and balsamic vinegar.I serve them on grilled toast points and topthem with macadamia nuts and a little fresh arugula.They don’t taste anything like what people expect.There’s no mineral-like avor at all from the innards,”Koehn said.22WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong>www.dmcityview.com/relish


THANK YOU FOR VOTING USTHE BEST BBQ IN DES MOINES!COME TASTETHE BEST!OPEN FOR LUNCH AND DINNERMonday <strong>11</strong>–2Tuesday & Wednesday <strong>11</strong>–7Thursday, Friday & Saturday <strong>11</strong>–82010RIBS – 1/2 rack with 2 sidesRIBS – Full rack with 2 sidesCHICKEN DINNER 3 pieces with one sideHOT JAMBALAYA with Hot Pepper CornbreadSPICY CREOLE with choice of meat plus Hot Pepper CornbreadSMOKED BEEF BRISKET CHILI with Hot Pepper CornbreadSAMPLE PLATTER Choice of 2 Meats and 2 SidesPULLED PORK SANDWICHSLICED BEEF BRISKET SANDWICHPULLED CHICKEN SANDWICHINGERSOLL SANDWICHFEAST FOR 4 Everything you want and need...FEAST FOR 6 and then some more!DINNERS•SANDWICHES•A LA CARTESIDES•DRINKS•SWEETSSIDES Baked Beans, Cole Slaw, Potato Salad,Hot Pepper Cornbread plusFire and Ice (our special cucumber salad).Ask to see if our Special Side is available!DRINKS Millstream Keg Soda (Root Beer, Black Cherry, Cream Soda),cans of pop and bottled waterSWEETS Cookies, Cookie Sundaes, FloatsDINE-IN•TAKE-OUTCATERINGSEE OUR FULL MENU ONLINE!2716 Ingersoll Avenue www.unclewendells.com 288-3207www.dmcityview.com/relish WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong> 21


Beyond ThanksgivingNothing about the turkey has been more confusedthan its culinary image. First of all, it’s not just forthe holidays anymore. A quarter century ago, halfof all U.S. turkey was consumed during the holidayseason. That share has eroded ever since as turkeyparts became more available, and low fat turkeysandwiches became popular year around at restaurantslike Subway and Jimmy John’s. Close to half ofall U.S. turkey consumption (48 percent) is now attributedto such sandwiches.Some of the best chefs in central Iowa are embracingturkey with exciting, multi ethnic applications.Turkey’s culinary history has been mostly Mexican.When Spaniards arrived, the entire Yucatan peninsulawas called “Ulumil cuz yetel ceh,” meaning “theland of the turkey and the deer.” Mayans were makingpumpkin soup with turkey broth. That’s something Ido in my own kitchen each winter after discoveringthe deeper avors of turkey stock. “Pibikutz” (turkeytamales) were prepared during the festival of HanalPixan, which became the Day of the Dead after Mayanculture was assimilated into Roman Catholicism.The symbolism of “burying” a tamale in a pit andthen “resurrecting” it corresponded with the ancientMayan idea of burying the dead before their transi-www.iowaturkey.orgthe FEATURETurkey: the all-American proteinBy Jim DuncanRELISHWith apologies to Sir Winston Churchill, Indiais not the quintessential “mystery wrappedin an enigma.” Turkey is — the bird not thecountry. For starters, we still call it turkey nearly 500years after it was learned that Columbus had “discovered”these 10 million-year-old birds in America,not Asia as he assumed. It’s been several centuriessince it was learned that they are not guinea (Turkish)fowls as the rst Europeans assumed. No, turkeyis a unique all-American source of protein. Infact, it’s THE all-American protein. Yet, it’s still lostin cultural myopia despite the fact that chicken, beefand pork have more incidences of bacteria-transmitteddisease without any nutritional trade-off.It’s time for turkey to come out of obscurity, particularlyin Iowa. Most Iowans aren’t even awarethat turkey is a major component of the state’s agricultureand economy. Iowa’s 135 turkey farmersraise 10.5 million birds a year with 207 full-timeemployees. That accounts for $78 million a year,just on the farm. Processing doubles its economicimpact. Another 1,750 employees work in Iowa turkeyproduction facilities, which import an additional6 million turkeys a year for neighboring states.Though Iowa is the seventh ranking state in turkeyproduction, it’s a huge turkey processor, particularlyfor deli chains.Some people misunderstand turkey nutritionally.It was infamously stigmatized by “Naked Chef” JamieOliver, who campaigned against England’s “turkeytwizzlers,” which are only about one third turkeyand get most all their “unhealthy” qualities from theother two thirds. In reality, turkey has more proteinthan certain cuts of beef or chicken, is low in caloriesand fat, contains less cholesterol than most othermeats, and is full of important nutrients. Shape UpAmerica found an average savings of 108 caloriesper meal just by substituting turkey for typical cutsof beef, pork or chicken in popular recipes. Visit thewww.iowaturkey.org website to learn how to upgradeyour meals with turkey. Iowa State women’sbasketball coach Bill Fennelly endorses turkey as ahealthy food for athletes. “Turkey is a favorite of ourteam and myself as well. Great taste and good foryou — it cannot get much better than that,” he told<strong>Relish</strong>.20WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong>www.dmcityview.com/relishSmoked turkey in Smokey D’s smoker.


the DISHity on 2nd Avenue… Tommy Farrell opened a concessionstand on the east side of Wells Fargo Arenafeaturing Graziano sausage and his Italian beef sandwiches.Farrell also was ready at press time to openan Italian beef sandwich and hot dog kitchen inThe Gas Lamp which is due to open next week in theold Blues on Grand… The former Fiesta Cancun on S.E.14th Street is now Cinco de Mayo restaurant.AccoladesCityview Food Dude name La Mie the “Restaurant ofthe Year,” Baru the “Best New Restaurant,” David Baruthiothe “Chef of the Year,” and Smokey D’s partnersShad Kirton and Darren Warth “Restaurateursof the Year”… The Des Moines Register’s Datebook Dinernamed Baru her “Restaurant of the Year”… PrairieMeadows Executive Chef Patricia Weidner was namedIowa Restaurant Association’s (IRA) chef of the year.She also won the “People’s Choice Award” at the IRAannual convention… Hy-Vee ranked No. 41 on Forbeslist of the largest private companies in the USA, aheadof Levi Strauss, Hallmark Cards, Neiman Marcus, Petcoand Bass Pro Shops.PC Events of the QuarterNot so happy San Francisco (duh) became the rst majorU.S. city to outlaw free toys with children’s meals…Medora introduced “air-popped pop corn chips.”Politically Incorrect Eventof the QuarterTo prove that weight loss had little or nothing to do withnutritional mythology, Kansas State University Professorof Nutrition Mark Haub completed a 10-week diet,eating nothing but Hostess and Little Debbie cakes,Doritos chips, sugary cereals and Oreos. He shed 27pounds on his “Convenience Store Diet” simply bycounting calories.RELISHComing EventsDes Moines Metro Opera hosts its Food & Wine ShowcaseFeb. 18 at the Downtown Marriott… Iowa CulinaryInstitute’s annual Fleur de Lys Gala French dinner andauction will be April 16, $125. Reservations 964-6655...Des Moines super chef George Formaro teaches a seriesof themed cooking demonstrations this winter followedby full dinners with wine pairings. Feb. 18 considers“Rustic Italian Cooking” and March 4 “EntertainingItalian Style.” Both events cost $75. Reservations248-1780... Waterfront sushi chefs teach a dinner/class on Feb. 27 at the West Des Moines Waterfront.$75 tuition includes dinner, wine and beer. Sign up atany Waterfront.Quote of the Quarter“McDonald’s has to explain why it can only bring theMcRib back for a limited time. Are they afraid of spoilingus? Is there a global shortage of pork scrapings andsmoke-avored sugar sauce? Or are they afraid if theyput it back on the menu permanently, their customerswill die off even quicker than they already are?” — BillMaherIrony of the QuarterOn “Kitchen Nightmares,” celebrity chef Gordon Ramseytold restaurateur Joseph Cerniglia that the latter’sdebt-ridden eatery would “swim down the Hudson.”Cerniglia’s dead body was pulled out of that river afterhe jumped off the George Washington Bridge. RELISHBEEF UP!HUGE SELECTION! IOWA CUTS COOKED OVER HARDWOOD CHARCOALAll dinners include salad bar, baked potato and garlic bread! 14 oz. FILET 20 oz. BEEF KABOB 20 oz. RIBEYE 20 oz. NEW YORK STRIP 24 oz. SIRLOIN 24 oz. SIRLOIN TERIYAKI 28 oz. T-BONE 2-7 oz. CHICKENBREASTS 2-14 oz IOWA PORKCHOPS FRESH SAUTÉEDMUSHROOMSIOWA BEEFSTEAKHOUSEEstablished 198213HD TVsOPEN7NIGHTS A WEEKat 5pm1201 E. Euclid Ave.2 blocks west of E. 14th & Euclid Ave.262-<strong>11</strong>38www.iowabeefsteakhouse.comVoted # 1 Steak House in Des Moines!2009 Iowa Beef Backer Awardwww.dmcityview.com/relish WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong> 19


the DISHUrbandale with lunch buffets and Bosnian dishes… JoeFalbo (Big Leagues Skybox Deli ) opened Boss Hawg’sin the former Sonic Drive-In on S.E. 14th Street witha motorcycle theme, heated patios and car hops… TheLam family opened Saigon Market on Euclid and MartinLuther King Parkway, with the most fully stockedAsian supermarket shelves in town… Hal Jasa (Underground)opened Zingaro in Sherman Hill.Corporate NewsPanera (Missouri) Bread Downtown opened onstreet level of the Davis Brown Tower… MontanaMike’s (Texas) steakhouse opened in the old CountryKitchen locale on N.E. 14th Street… Darden restaurantsInc. (Florida) opened a brand new 7,400-square-footOlive Garden outlet on Oralabor Road in Ankeny. Onlythe massive chain’s second central Iowa store, the newplace features heavily advertised new “Rustic TuscanFarmhouse” design. But is it enough to end the caucusseason joke, “He’s about as Presidential as Olive Gardenis Italian?”Sad NewsThe West Des Moines Amici Espresso closed… SouthernHills Winery, marketed as the state’s rst winecooperative, led to liquidate its assets under federalbankruptcy laws… Oasis closed… Stella’s Blue SkyDiner closed... Happy Joe’s closed their outlet on EPTrue Parkway in West Des Moines… Tres Hermanosclosed their brick and mortar venue by Lincoln HighSchool… Kin Folks Texas Style BBQ closed its Altoonavenue… Ban Thai closed in East Village… IndianGrill shut down in the skywalk… Jimmy’s Pizza closedRELISHin Urbandale… AK O’Connor’s shut down on WestownParkway… Black Market Pizza closed after just threemonths and despite a national TV feature on the TravelChannel’s “Man v. Food.” The worry now is that theepisode will not be replayed with the frequency of other“Man v. Food” shows due to Black Market’s demise. Whoresearched Des Moines for that show?TransitionsQuinton’s Bar & Deli (Iowa City) is moving into the oldGrand Piano Bistro locale in East Village… Douglas IvanEscalona and Catalina Barreto (Margarita’s) preparefor a March opening of Des Moines rst churrascaria —Volcano Bar & Grill in the old Toad Holler/Cotton EyedJoe’s… Escalona and Barreto also prepped to re-openthe former Black Cat Café on Ingersoll… Tony Lemmoput nishing touches on Gusto Pizza Co. in IngersollSquare… Taco John’s moved half a block to biggerquarters on Grand Avenue in West Des Moines but wereheld up on their opening because cold weather retardedreconstruction of a right turn lane they had removed…Capital Pub & Hot Dog approached an opening onEast Sixth and Martin Luther King Parkway, promising agala sausage bar… Fucaloro’s pizza, an east side institutionbefore closing in 2000, is now served at the Bennigan’sGrill & Tavern on Army Post Road… Kyl Cabbagereturned to the wine business, at Wine and SpiritsGallery… El Chisme moved to the former Café Su inValley Junction… Mama Lacona’s relocated in the oldMaverick on Douglas Avenue… Village Bean moved tolarger digs without leaving East Village… Smokey D’smoved two blocks on the map but a moon shot away insize, class and notoriety, to the Harley Davidson facil-2605 Ingersoll Ave. • 288-3381 • www.sakarisushilounge.comM-F: <strong>11</strong>am-2pm & 5-10pm • Sat: 5-10pmFEATURING THE CITY’S BEST MARTINIS AND JAPANESE CUISINE18WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong>www.dmcityview.com/relish


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the DISHIowa is in good shape for 20<strong>11</strong>RELISHBy Jim DuncanIf the food sector is indicative of the general economy,then Iowa is in good shape going forward in 20<strong>11</strong>. Lastyear ended with the most restaurant openings and expansionsfor any quarter in the last four years.The Good NewsHarry Bookey, Pam Bass Bookey and Jeff Duncanopened Big City Burger & Greens in the Capitol Center,where Battani’s ruled for years. The lunch-only restaurantshares space with Catering Des Moines, anevent planning business also run by Duncan… YannisMiras opened 2Fer’s Grill on Merle Hay Road featuringBalkan cuisine and two dinners for the price of one…Alexander Rhoads opened All Spice in East Village,selling bulk spices, olive oils and vinegars, and hostingseminars, private tastings and cooking demos... PlazaAcapulco opened on Sixth Avenue… Ignacio Perezand Rafael Martinez opened Isla Cozumel in the oldMama Lacona’s on 85th Street in Urbandale… PhonexayVilavongsa and Chad Lovan (Lemongrass) openedTaste of Thai in the East Village venue most famousas Taste of Thailand… At press time, Patton’s Restaurantwas due to open on East Grand serving soulfulAmerican cuisine… El Blue Burrito opened by La Tapatiasupermarket bringing late night, El Rey style to theeastside… Viva La Bamba opened their second store inthe old Happy Joe’s on N.W. 86th Street in Urbandale…Rajan Devan, Fadi Nijem and Kenji Nakata opened Club2060 in the Clive venue that previously housed Margarita’s.Nay Baccam (Alohanna) opened Hawaiian Grillin the same place… Findlay’s Smokehouse returnedto Indianola Avenue… Players Bar & Grill opened onBeaver Avenue with family style ambiance and friendlyprices… Kula Grill & Café opened on 100th Street in16ALWAYS FRESH•ALWAYS GOOD•CASUAL DINING•GREAT FOR FAMILIES•COMFORT FOODDAILY SPECIALS2502 SE TONES DRIVE • ANKENY964.2<strong>11</strong>2 • www.chipsrestaurant.comWINTER | 20<strong>11</strong>FABULOUS FOODGREAT WINE LISTSPECIAL BAR MENUWEDNESDAYNIGHTHALF PRICE WINEWhether you’re inblue jeans or wearinga tie, you’ll love us!5810 MERLE HAY ROADwww.greenbriartrostels.comwww.dmcityview.com/relishWhat’s New?Now Openfor LunchSeasonal Salads & SandwichesMon-Fri • <strong>11</strong>am to 2pm•“Big” PlateSelectionsat Night•A Unique Dining &Sharing Experience12851 university avenue • clivephone: 221.dishwww.dishtrostels.com


1the FACESRELISH12345678John JeagerJohn & Nick’sPatricia WeidnerPrairie MeadowsJimmy SandersGino’s West GlenTroy TrostelGreenbriarAndrew MeekSbroccoWendell GarretsonUncle Wendell’sJulio GamboaDos RiosBlake WenzelJethro ‘n Jake’s1 2 34 5 69 TimothyKommavongsaSakari Sushi7 8 9SEE IT ALLONLINE AT:RELISHcentral iowa's guide to all things diningAn issue dedicated to turkeyLook inside for dining ideas, profiles and a guide of restaurant listingswww.dmcityview.comTaco Tuesdays99¢ each2-for-<strong>11</strong>6 oz. Margaritas$2.99 all day Monday!MondaysLunch Fajitas $5.99Dinner Fajitas $7.993121 Ingersoll Ave. 255.9059900 E. Army Post Rd. 256.8901www.dmcityview.com/relish WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong> 15


the CHEFKim BurowCORPORATE EXECUTIVE CHEF OF HY-VEE CONFERENCE CENTERRELISHBy Matt MillerQAQAQAWhat is your favorite food?I really enjoy Iowa-grownproducts like our sweetcorn. Anywhere you cantouch home and experiencesomething that is grown andraised in Iowa is wellworth it.What is yourfavorite dish toprepare?One of thenew trends iscold-smokedsteaks. They aredifferent becausethey are infusedwith the smoke,and then you canuse additionalseasonings if youlike. The steakshave a delicate avoryou can’t nd a lot ofplaces.Where do you like to eatwhen not at work?My favorite place is Sam andGabe’s Italian Bistro. It has agreat atmosphere, good music anddynamite food.QAQAQAQAQIs there a seasonal ingredientyou like working with?We use a lot of lavender when bakingand poaching chicken and sh. It’san unusual avor, and it reminds meof spring and summer.Why do you like working withturkey?Turkey isn’t just a food you can eatin November and December — it isa very versatile produce that can beprepared in a variety of ways. I thinkthe word is starting to get out onhow good it tastes and the nutritionalbenets it has.What do you like to do whenyou’re not cooking?I enjoy taking the jet ski out on thelake and golng. I also like visitingValley Junction and shopping at thelocal farmers’ markets.How do you recommendpreparing turkey?Some people aren’t a big fan ofsauces, so another way to preparethem is to marinade. It also tastesgreat when you roast or grill it.What’s the best cooking tip youcan share with readers?ASimplicity is key. More ingredientsaren’t always necessary —sometimes less ingredients equalsmore avor. RELISH14WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong>www.dmcityview.com/relish


the FARMERwww.iowaturkey.orgThe perfect proteinRELISHBy Matt MillerJohn and Andria Volkmann understand there is alot more to the turkey industry than just carvinga bird on Thanksgiving Day. The industry hasbecome a way of life and something the two takegreat pride in since they started the family businessin 2002.“Yes, we’re busy around Thanksgiving, but that’sno different than any other time of year,” John said.“The hours don’t just pick up the fourth Thursday inNovember or only during the holiday season; it’s a fulltimejob.”These are the words of a successful, knowledgeableturkey farmer who helps to contribute to the more than10.5 million turkeys produced annually in the state.Located southwest of Jewel, the Volkmann family farm,The Volkmann family has beenwhich includes two children, raises approximately 100,000involved in the turkey industryturkeys each year.since 2002.“It really is a family business,” Andria said. “John takes careof the turkeys that are just about ready for market, which arein the larger barns, and I tend to the baby turkeys, called poults.”The family sees the birds daily from the time they are hatched through 19 weeks.“It’s rewarding to see the birds to market at more than 40 pounds,” John said. “It’s a lot of work, butit’s well worth it.”Over the years, the Volkmanns have also become advocates by spreading the word about the healthfulbenets of turkey. Known as the “perfect protein,” turkey has fewer calories and less fat than chickenand beef.“People can use turkey in a variety of ways,” John said. “It tastes great, and people are quicklydiscovering its high nutritional value. Our family takes great pride in providing a high-quality protein forothers.” RELISHPhoto courtesy of Iowa Turkey Federation Monday-Friday www.dmcityview.com/relish WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong> 13


the DESSERTwww.iowaturkey.orgRELISHTurkey Bacon BrowniesBy Jared CurtisAlmost as American as apple pie, brownies are a staplefor any dessert. The gooey, chocolate goodness cancure any sweet tooth. Over the past ve years, dessertmakers have incorporated unique ingredients never imaginedbefore, including the use of turkey bacon. Jennifer Strauss,co-owner/chef of Carefree Patisserie, is using turkey baconin one of her brownie recipes, creating a truly unique, buttasty dessert.“It’s the perfect match of sweet and salty,” Strauss said.“Using the turkey bacon creates a healthier option, and itworks really well with the recipes because it has less fat.” Find Turkey Bacon Browniesat Carefree Patisserie, 516Although some dessert makers will only top their dessertElm St. (Valley Junction). Callwith a sliver of bacon, Strauss adds hers to the batter.ahead for orders, 277-0705.“I cook the bacon before and then crumble it into thebatter,” she said. “It is cooked twice, and the avor andtexture it creates is unique.”Strauss says customers were hesitant to try the dessert but have warmed up to the idea of turkeybacon in a brownie.“The customers like it because it’s something different,” she says. “Some people worry about havingbacon in their dessert, but I always tell them to give it a try because they might like it.”Strauss enjoys how the turkey bacon creates that extra taste to an already classic dessert.“To me, it adds to the brownie because I like the saltiness in my dessert, and the chewy pieces addto texture and avor,” she said. “The idea of using turkey bacon in desserts is growing, and we havebeen working on some new ideas as well.” RELISHJohnNickENJOY THE FAMOUSSALAD BARat John & Nick’sit’s bigger and better withover 60 fresh homemade items.the best part is the salad barcomes with your meal!enjoy black angus steaks,great selection of incredibleseafood, chops, pasta andour house specialty: prime rib!family-friendlyprices!15970 Hickman Rd • Clive • 987.<strong>11</strong>51just 3 miles west of i-35 on Hickman • www.johnandnicks.com12WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong>www.dmcityview.com/relish


the RECIPESRELISHApple roasted turkeytenderloin with ciderpan saucePair with a light, fruity, and unoaked red Iowa wine such asFrontenac, Marechal Foch, St. Croix or Marquette.Yield: 6Marinade2 Pounds TURKEY TENDERLOINS1 Cup apple cider1/3 Cup apple vinegarButtery tenderloin and pound it to an even thickness of¼-inch. Mix apple cider and cider vinegar. Add tenderloinand cover. Set aside to marinate in the refriderator.Apple Stufng2 Cups plain crutons½ Cup tart apples, peeled, cored and diced¼ Cup pecan pieces, toasted1 Tablespoon fresh thyme1 Teaspoon salt1 Teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 Teaspoon minced fresh garlic¼ Cup apple cider¼ Cup heavy creamMix croutons, apples, pecans, thyme, salt, pepper, garlic,cider and heavy cream together. Allow to macerate 10minutes then mix again. Spread stufng atop tenderloin,leaving 1 inch of space along the edges. Tightly rolltenderloin and tie with butcher’s twine.Sear and Oven Finish2 Tablespoons canola oilHeat oil in roasting pan and sear tenderloin until lightlybrown. Finish cooking tenderloin in preheated 350 degreeF oven until the internal temperature reaches 165 degreesF. Remove tenderloin from the pan and allow to rest.Cider Pan Sauce1 Cup dry white wine1 Cup apple cider1 Teaspoon minced fresh garlic1 Teaspoon freshly ground black pepper¼ Cup heavy cream½ Cup cold water1 Teaspoon fresh sage, chopped1 Tablespoon TURKEY OR CHICKEN BASE2 Tablespoons rouxDeglaze roasting pan with wine and remaining cider;reduce by 1/2. Reduce the heat and stir in garlic, pepper,cream, water, sage and turkey base. Mix well, and whenjust below a simmer, thicken with the roux. Continue tocook until smooth and thicken.This recipe, along with others, may be found atwww.eatturkey.com.presentsLIVE LOCAL MUSICMONDAYS –SATURDAYS6:30PMTUES/WEDSAMSALAMONEJazzIowa Jazz Hallof Fame InducteeFRIDAYJOHNKRANTZJazzMONDAYJANEYHOOPERBluesJazzR&BHOMEMADE PIZZAIN THE LOUNGE MONDAY–THURSDAY• Award-Winning Cuisine• Full Bar with Complete Wine Menu• Tremendous AtmosphereA FAMILY TRADITION FOR 75 YEARS!MONDAY–THURSDAY: 5PM–9PMFRIDAY AND SATURDAY: 5PM–10PMTHURSDAYFREDGAZZOBANDBig Band/Rat PackCroonerSATURDAYTONYVALDEZBest of ‘70sto the Present8631 HICKMAN ROAD • URBANDALE(Just north of Dahl’s on Hickman)271-9200WWW.SAMANDGABES.COMwww.dmcityview.com/relish WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong> <strong>11</strong>


the ENTREEwww.iowaturkey.orgRELISHTurkey TamaleBy Jared CurtisWe live in a turkey culture thanks to thestory of Christopher Columbus breakingbread with the Native Americans andunknowingly beginning the tradition known asThanksgiving. We learn about this growing up,and once a year we sit down with our familiesand celebrate the holiday, usually enjoying turkeywith the meal. But for M. Angelica Tejeda, chefat Tamale Industry, 2728 2nd Ave., “turkey day”did not take place while growing up in Mexico, sousing turkey in tamales was unheard of. That isuntil she moved to Des Moines.“In Mexico, it’s not common to celebrate Thanksgiving,so we rarely ate turkey,” Tejeda said. “My oldest child broughthome a frozen turkey from school and we didn’t know what todo with it, so we stuck it in a freezer. Then one day we had anorder for chicken tamales, and we were out, so we cooked theturkey and used it instead. We shredded it, and the customersreally enjoyed it.”From there, the popularity of the turkey tamale has grown.Find turkey tamales at TamaleIndustry, 2728 2nd Ave. Callahead for special orders ($18a dozen, $10 for a half-dozen),288-<strong>11</strong>35.“We like working with the turkey because it has more meat, is juicier and healthier for you than chicken,”Tejeda said. “Plus, mixing the white and dark meat creates a unique avor that works well with our red andgreen chile salsa.”Tamale Industry’s unique masa is coarsely hand ground in the kitchen exclusively with white corn and issteamed inside cornhusks, creating some of the best tamales in town.“It wasn’t our intention to create an Americanized tamale, but the turkey offers a similar taste to ourother tamales, and our customers have enjoyed them,” she said. RELISH woodyssmokeshack.com2010Good Morning America'sTop 4 BBQRestaurants in AmericaBrisket Pulled PorkPulled Chicken Smoked HamBaby Back Ribs Baked BeansCheesy Potatoes Pasta SaladPotato Salad Sweet Hot ApplesCreamy Mac ‘n’ CheeseCole Slaw & much more!LET WOODY’S PLAN YOUR NEXT EVENT!Full service catering availableTables Tents Music Decorations10WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong>www.dmcityview.com/relish


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the SANDWICHwww.iowaturkey.orgRELISHTurkey sandwichBy Gretta IrwinTurkey sandwiches are the No. 1 way Americans enjoyturkey. And why not with the limitless ways turkeycan be seasoned and paired with new avorings? Theconvenience and leanness of turkey deli meat ts well into yourmeals. Sandwiches are now acceptable and appreciated for ourbusy evening meal as well as lunch time. Sandwich shops likeSubway are evening pairing deli meat with eggs, vegetablesand bread for a delicious breakfast sandwich.Iowa’s turkey farmers and processors specialize in delimeat. In fact Iowa produces enough turkey deli meat for everyAmerican to have one 3-ounce turkey sandwich every year. Ifwe kept all that turkey in Iowa, we would have to eat twoturkey sandwiches a week!Cooking with turkey deli meat is fun, especially when youuse your creativity to blend and create new avors. RecentlyI took on the challenge of converting a favorite appetizer,Turkey Poppers, into a sandwich. The Turkey Popper sandwichis a delightful blend of spicy avors and warm satisfyingturkey. It will satisfy any winter-time hunger. RELISHTurkey Popper SandwichLayer 2 ounces sliced turkey breast on bread. Pour lowfat Italian dressing over the deli meat. Top with bananaor jalapeno peppers. Add 1 slice of turkey bacon, cut inhalf that has been cooked in the microwave for 1 minute.Top with 1 slice jalapeno cheese. Top with a slice of breadthat has been rubbed with a little Italian dressing on topslice of the bread. Bake in preheated 375 degree F oven 10minutes until cheese is melted.“Like the Cyclones, Iowa turkeyfarmers represent what is specialabout our great state in so manyways. It’s a group of great peopledoing things the right way to benetour state.” – Coach Bill FennellyISU Women’s basketball coach BillFennely enjoys his “Turkey PopperSandwich.”Enjoy Old World Pasta, Pizza, Salads & MoreFeaturing FREE Range8One Owner, One Name,Family Run Since 1946WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong>2400 Ingersoll Ave. • Des Moines288-2246The Original Lacona Family Restaurant! • www.NoahsDesMoines.comwww.dmcityview.com/relishAngus Beef


New menufeaturing 20 socialplates under $8to be sharedamong friends.Book your private party in the Chef’s Cellar, a privatedining room where Chef Meek will offer his signaturedishes, ‘farm to table’ dining events, and demonstrations.award winning chefandrew meek•"no chef in Iowa understandsseafood better than Andrew Meek."– jim duncan•"top 100 farm to table chef"– Gourmet magazine•Anthony Bourdain golden clogaward nominee•James Beard ‘Best of the Midwest’ Nominee•four star restaurant– datebook208 court avenuedowntown ~ 282.3663 [food]sbroccowine.comwww.dmcityview.com/relish WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong> 7


the DRINKwww.iowaturkey.orgRELISH2010 Iowa NouveauBy Jared CurtisPairing a wine with a meal is a common occurrence, but with every dish there is apossibility to create something unique. When pairing food and wine, consumerswant to have different tastes that either complement or contrast, soboth the food and wine can stand out. The standard pairings of red winewith beef or white wine with sh are long gone. A variety of wines canbe paired with any dish, but we’re not talking about just any dish,we’re talking turkey.“I think there are a lot of wines that pair well with turkey,” saidDennis Ver Mulm, IowaWines.org. “But which one you selected wouldbe determined in large part by how the turkey was prepared.”Pairing a wine with a Turkey tenderloin dish, Ver Mulm suggestedthe Iowa Nouveau from Tassel Ridge Winery.“The pairing recommendation for this meal is for a dry, yet lightand fruity,unoaked red Find Iowa Nouveau atwine,” he said. “But Tassle Ridge Winery,remember, how the Ingersoll Wines &turkey is prepared Spirits and Hy-Veeand seasoned will Wine & Spirits.have a lot to dowith which wine ischosen to go with them.”Tassle Ridge says the Iowa Nouveau, is a lightand fruity red wine, made entirely from grapesgrown in Mahaska County, which is exactly whyVer Mulm likes the pairing.“Wine is now so popularly consumed with sucha wide spectrum of foods, it’s no longer valid tolook at the standard pairings,” he said. “The overallgoal in selecting a wine to accompany a meal is tohave the wine and food balance. You don’t wantthe wine to overpower the food or vice versa. Andthis wine offers the balance needed for a turkeyinspired dish.” RELISH6WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong>www.dmcityview.com/relish


the CONTENTSRELISH6 the DRINK8 the SANDWICH10 the ENTREE<strong>11</strong> the RECIPES12 the DESSERTHandicap Accessible • Bocce Ball Court located on PatioHours:Lunch: Mon-Fri • <strong>11</strong>am-2pmDinner: Mon-Thurs • 4:30-9:30pmFri-Sat • 4:30-10pm1501 SE 1st Street • Des Moines282-7964 • www.tumeaandsons.comFind us on13 the FARMER14 the CHEF15 the FACES16 the DISH20 the FEATURE24 the PLACESwww.dmcityview.com/relish WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong> 5


from the EDITORRELISHThe all-American protein$Monday–Thursday 4–6pmwith a FREE APPETIZERwith the coupon below7.99MEALS!Call Ahead Seating251-4597Give us a call before youcome and we’ll add yourname to our waiting list.Hoof it on over ten minutesbefore your quoted time andyou’ll be eating – instead ofwaiting – that much quicker!Turkeys are woefully misunderstood. Start withtheir name. Early Europeans in the Americasthought they had discovered a short cut to Asiaand mistakenly identied the birds as guinea fowls, whichwere popularly known as “Turkey fowls” at the time becausethey were imported to Europe through Turkey. Eventhe scientic name for turkeys got it wrong — “meleagris”is Greek for guinea fowl. The incorrect names allstuck though, even after it was discovered that turkey is auniquely American species.Ben Franklin admired the character of turkeys, callingthem a “bird of courage,” and lamented that they were notchosen as America’s national symbol in lieu of the morallydepraved eagle. Abraham Lincoln’s son Todd kept a petturkey in the White House. When it was suggested that petbecome a holiday meal, President Lincoln, who also proclaimedthe rst Thanksgiving, issued the rst Presidentialpardon for a turkey. Iowa turkey farmers provided the nation’sofcially pardoned turkey in 2008.Nothing about the turkey though is as misunderstoodas its culinary brilliance. As our cover story declares, it’snot just for holidays any more. This issue of <strong>Relish</strong> looksat many creative ways turkey is being used by Iowa’s bestchefs, how different ethnic groups have expanded applicationsfor the bird, how turkey is an under appreciated butvital part of Iowa agriculture, and how to best enjoy theall-American protein. RELISH— Jim Duncan, CVFDude@aol.com, Twitter.com/foodude8744 Northpark Drive JohnstonJust north of the Interstate West of 86th StreetFREE APPETIZERWith purchase of any 2 entrees. Limit 1 per customer. Excludes combo appetizer. Offer good through 3/31/<strong>11</strong>.Publisher: Shane GoodmanEditor:Jim DuncanContributors: Jared CurtisMatt MillerGretta IrwinSales mgr: Anthony BonannoAccount executive: Dave MableDesign mgr: Celeste JonesGraphic designers: Karen EricsonLindy MogrenBusiness mgr: Brent AntisdelDistribution: Brent AntisdelPhone: 515.953.4822Fax: 515.953.1394Address: 414 61st StreetDes Moines, IA, 50312Website: www.dmcityview.com/relishE-mail: editor@dmcityview.comRELISH magazine is a quarterly publication of BigGreen Umbrella Media, Inc., an Iowa corporation.Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part withoutpermission of the publisher. Copies of past issues, asavailable, may be purchased for $3 each (plus shippingif required).4WINTER | 20<strong>11</strong>www.dmcityview.com/relish


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