Everest Expedition, 2013 - Alpenglow Expeditions

Everest ExpeditionNepalApril 5 – June 3, 2013 $74,000land costsLhotse Add-on $16,000Difficulty Level: Advanced- must be able to climb technical terrain with analpine pack on your back. You should be comfortable with camp craft inhigh-altitude camps and be able to perform at a high level for multiple daysin a row at altitude.

Alpenglow Expeditions is excited to offer expeditions to Mount Everest. The tallest mountain inthe world (29,035 feet/8,848 meters) is an incredible challenge and we believe the Alpenglowteam is the only choice when making your dream of reaching the top of the world come true.Alpenglow’s unique format and extensive experience gives us the ability to achieve the highestlevels of both safety and success.Alpenglow offers an exceptional level of competency, safety, and comfort to Everestexpeditions. Our team will be limited to 9 members, with certified guides and the best Sherpaand cooks available (staff we have been working with for more than a decade). The small groupsize allows us to adapt to changing conditions and weather far more easily than manycommercial teams, which have become so large over the last five years that they have becomedifficult to manage. Our ratios of member to sherpa (1:1) and member to guide (1:3), thecomforts of our Base Camp, our fresh and nutritious food, and our use of maximum oxygen aredetails that add up to a far more enjoyable experience and successful climb.Our traditional itinerary to climb Everest allows ample time for conventional acclimatization byhiking up the magnificent Khumbu Valley from Lukla (60 days total expedition). Alpenglow isalso the leader in offering “express” trips to 8,000-meter peaks, and offers an Everest Expressitinerary (48 days) utilizing pre-acclimatization in hypoxic tents, helicopters to and from BaseCamp, and, as with our traditional itinerary, more Sherpa/guide support and oxygen than anyother operator.Alpenglow Expeditions’ logistics, guiding, base camp staff, food, and equipment are of theabsolute highest-level possible. As with all of Alpenglow’s 8,000-meter peak expeditions,Everest is organized and led by IFMGA guide, Adrian Ballinger. Adrian is one of the mostrecognized guides in the Himalaya, with an impeccable safety record and ten 8,000 meter peaksummits, all while guiding or rope-fixing for guided teams. Adrian has extensive experienceorganizing complicated logistics for large Himalayan teams (including 6 years as lead guide forone of the Himalaya’s largest companies), as well as countless hours on the mountain ropefixingwith sherpa, guiding members, and assisting and organizing rescues.While many downplay the difficulty and hazards of climbing Mount Everest, Alpenglowmaintains a deep respect for the nature of this mountain and you will never find usunderestimating its potential dangers. We require a significant amount of experience fromeach of our members to ensure that you will feel comfortable on the peak, both with your ownskills and of those of your teammates.Below are just a few of Alpenglow’s key differences:- 3:1 maximum guide to climber ratio. All guides are IFMGA qualified or aspirantsworking towards finishing their certification. This is the lowest member to guide ratioin the Himalaya.- 1:1 sherpa to climber ratio. This ensures we have the sherpa necessary to carry loads,set camps, and assist climbers. All of our sherpa on Everest have worked with us onmany expeditions.

- Expedition doctor, Monica Piris, has been on more than ten 8,000-meter peakexpeditions. She travels with the group and is in Base Camp throughout the expedition.Dr. Piris also works with each member on his or her pre-acclimatization program.- Swiss weather forecasts. Having a quality forecast for Mount Everest maximizes bothour safety and our summit success.- 6 bottles of oxygen per climber. This allows us to use oxygen at Camps 3 and 4, climbon a higher flow than other expeditions (2L from C3-C4, and 4L from C4-Summit),maximizing safety and success. Our sherpa also climb and sleep on oxygen, whichmeans they have more strength to focus on you and your ascent.- Imported and local foods of the highest quality, combined with a western trained cookstaff. Alpenglow has the best food on the mountain, ensuring your strength and healththroughout the expedition.- Unlimited WIFI Internet in Base Camp. We understand the modern need for technology,and this allows you to stay in touch with home and office via email, text message, andphone at no additional expense.-Route DescriptionWe begin our expedition by flying to Lukla, and then trekking through the Khumbu Valley,home to famous Sherpa towns, Buddhist monasteries, and, of course, stunning mountain views.After 7 days of walking and acclimatizing we arrive in Lobuche Base Camp, where we meet thesecond part of our team, members of the Express Everest team. We spend the first week ofclimbing acclimatizing on 6,091 meter Lobuche Peak. We summit the peak twice during theweek, and spend at least 2 nights sleeping on its summit.From Lobuche, we walk one day up the Khumbu Valley to our Everest Base Camp, our home forthe duration of the climb. Alpenglow’s incredible 8,000 meter peak infrastructure, completewith heated dining tents, communications and hangout tents, WIFI internet access, a fullystocked kitchen, and much more, ensures you are extraordinarily comfortable, and conserveyour strength for the actual challenge of climbing.After some necessary rest, enjoying the luxuries of Base Camp, and a number of trainingsessions focused on traveling efficiently in the Icefall, we make one trip through the KhumbuIcefall for acclimatization. On this trip we spend at least 6 nights sleeping above Base Camp,primarily at our comfortable Camp 2 (6,400 meters), with at least one night at Camp 3 (7,250meters) and possibly a night at Camp 1 (6,100 meters).Provided our Camp 2 and 3 acclimatization trip was successful, we are then ready for oursummit bid, and wait for a good weather forecast. Of course, our itinerary also allows foradditional acclimatization as needed.Our summit ascent schedule will depend on weather, route conditions, and managing anycrowds on the mountain. Generally we climb directly to Camp 2, rest 1 night, and thencontinue to Camp 3, Camp 4 at the South Col, and on to the summit. On our summit push weutilize supplemental oxygen sleeping at Camps 3 and 4, climbing between Camp 3 and 4, and,of course, on our summit push. We also provide additional oxygen to continue its use on ourdescent to Camp 2.Summiting Mount Everest is an incredible accomplishment that takes effort, patience, luck,and experience. After fifteen years of guiding in the Himalaya, the Alpenglow team has createdthe best infrastructure available to support your attempt on the world’s tallest mountain. Weencourage you to call us to further discuss our infrastructure, team, and traditional and“express” approaches to climbing Everest. We would also be happy to discuss with you thepossibility of summiting both Everest and Lhotse (the fourth tallest mountain in the world) in a

single season. The two mountains share all but the final summit day, and Alpenglow will haveteams and infrastructure on both peaks.

Everest Expedition ItineraryDay 1Arrive in Kathmandu, Nepal (4,600 feet/1,400 meters). We transfer to ourhotel, and begin the process of getting over jetlag. (Friday)Day 2Explore Kathmandu. Today we explore some of Kathmandu’s most famoussites. These include Swyambunath (the Monkey Temple), Pashupati (Nepal’slargest Hindu temple), Boudanath (Kathmandu’s most important Buddhisttemple) and the old city’s original central square, Durbar. We also have ourfirst team meeting, and organize our bags for the trek.Day 3Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (9,000 feet/2,743 meters), 45 minutes. Trek Luklato Monjo (9,300 feet/2,835 meters), 3-5 hours. One of the most beautifuland memorable mountain flights in the world, our 45-minute flight takes usfrom Kathmandu to Lukla, the town where we begin our trek to Base Camp.After organizing our yaks and porters we begin the half-day hike to the townof Monjo. The trail is excellent, and after descending to the town of Phakding,climbs easily from the river and across our first suspension bridges up to ourlodge in Monjo.Day 4Trek Monjo (9,300 feet/2,835 meters) to Namche Bazaar (11,300feet/3,444 meters), 3-4 hours. The walk begins with a couple of thrillingsuspension bridges and wanders along the banks of the raging Dudh KhosiRiver, before climbing steeply up a 2,000 foot (610 meter) hill into NamcheBazaar. This hill is the first of our challenging climbs. Along the way we arerewarded with our first views of Mt. Everest and plenty of well-built stoneterraces to stop and rest. We have lunch in Namche Bazaar and spend theafternoon exploring the vibrant town. Namche is the most important town inthe Khumbu Valley, and is filled with fun shops, great bakeries, and colorfulwinding streets. We also visit the local monastery and the Sherpa Museum ofCulture and Himalayan Climbing History. The museum’s exhibits chroniclingsherpa climbing history are not to be missed.Day 5Trek Namche Bazaar (11,300 feet/3,444 meters) to Khumjung (12,400feet/3,790 meters), 1 hour. For acclimatization purposes we spend a secondnight near Namche Bazaar. After a relaxing morning exploring town andenjoying our first stunning views of Ama Dablam from a viewpoint abovetown, we have lunch and then take a one-hour walk to Khumjung and one ofour sherpa’s homes. We spend the night his family in their comfortable lodge,and possibly visit the Hillary School in Khumjung, and the Khunde hospital,both projects of Sir Edmund Hillary, and significant centers of Sherpa life.Day 6Rest Day in Khumjung (12,400 feet/3,790 meters). Countless day hikessurround the town of Khumjung. Options include a 1,600-foot (500 meter)climb to an ancient sky burial site, a visit to the Everest View Hotel for tea, orjust resting and enjoying the hospitality of our sherpa’s family and lodge.

Day 7Trek Khumjung (12,400 feet/3,790 meters) to Phortse (12,450 feet/3,800meters), 3 hours. Phortse is home to most of our sherpa team. It is anincredible mountain town perched on the walls of a massive river valley andsees almost no Western visitors. To get there we set off from Khumjung onsmall trails, featuring a long stone staircase through vertical rock cliffs thatends at the Mong La, a high pass with striking 360 degree views of AmaDablam, Thamserku, and Kantegri. From the pass we descend to the river, andthen climb easily to Phortse, arriving in time for lunch. We spend theafternoon visiting our sherpa team in their homes, drinking tea and tasting thelocally made yak yogurt.Day 8Trek Phortse (12,450 feet/3,800 meters) to Dingboche (14,800 feet/4,530meters), 5-7 hours. We begin today’s trek far from other trekkers on the trailfrom Phortse to upper Pangboche. In Pangboche we visit the oldest monasteryand temple in the region and explore its paintings and statues. If we arefortunate, we may also receive blessings from the local lama. Once finished,we continue hiking to Dingboche, a small seasonal town perched at the baseof Lhotse’s South Face that has incredible views of Ama Dablam’s North Ridge.Day 9Rest day in Dingboche (14,800 feet/4,530 meters). Optional climb ofChukkung Ri (17,600 feet/5,364 meters), 6-8 hours. Chukkung Ri is notglaciated, but provides an excellent way for us to gain additionalacclimatization, as well as stunning views of the Lhotse South Face and thehuge glaciers filling the Amphu Valley. In the afternoon we return toDingboche. As needed, this day also makes for a great rest and recuperationday prior to continuing higher in the Khumbu Valley. Many shorter day hikesalso exist around the town of Dingboche offering an opportunity to explorewithout attempting the complete climb of Chukkung Ri.Day 10Trek Dingboche (14,800 feet/4,530 meters) to Lobuche (16,109 feet/4,910meters), 4-6 hours. We take our time and move slowly as we moveconsiderably higher in the valley. The walk to Lobuche follows a high plateauwith beautiful views of the surrounding peaks and yak herders’ huts, beforecrossing a small river and climbing steeply above the town of Dughla to theEverest memorial zone. Here there are stone memorials and plaques to manyof the local and international climbers who have been lost climbing Everestand the Khumbu’s other big peaks. After some time here to take in the beautyof this place, we continue up the valley to our camp at Lobuche.Day 11-12Rest days in Lobuche (16,109 feet/4,910 meters). Important days for ouracclimatization and getting used to being in the mountains. We enjoy the foodof our local Nepali chefs since we are now in our own camp. Optional dayhikes include a long walk to the Kongma La, a high pass below Nuptse’sCobweb Wall, or a shorter walk to the actual town of Lobuche.

Days 13-19Climbing on Lobuche Peak (6,090 meters). Lobuche is the perfect peak toacclimatize on before moving on the Everest. The climbing includes fixed-linetravel on small rock steps, open glaciers, steep snow headwalls, and airyridges. After summiting using a traditional camp just below the glacier, wewill climb a second time summiting directly from Base Camp, and then sleepon Lobuche’s summit ridge for two nights. These nights provide incredibleviews of Everest, and important acclimatization at 6,000 meters.Day 20Trek Lobuche (16,109 feet/4,910 meters) to Everest Base Camp (17,575feet/5,360 meters), 4-6 hours. We follow the valley next to the KhumbuGlacier all the way to the final Sherpa settlement of Gorak Shep. After a restand tea we continue up the valley on rocky and occasionally icy trails throughglacial moraines. At the head of the valley, we arrive into base camp, homefor at least the next month. This incredible camp will offers excellent food,comfortable tents, and important amenities (heated dining tents, electricity,etc.).Day 21-35Acclimatization. This time of the expedition will include training sessions inand around the Icefall and Base Camp, rest, and at least one trip through theIcefall to Camps 2 and 3.Day 36-50Summit Window. Over the past decade, summits of Mount Everest havealmost always fallen within the timeframe of May 15-30. We plan on havingour camps, the route, and our acclimatization ready to take advantage of thiswindow. Of course, we also have contingencies in place should the seasonprove unusual.Day 51-54Descend to Base Camp, celebrate the season, pack and organize our homes ofthe past month.Day 55Trek Everest Base Camp (17,575 feet/5360 meters) to Pangboche (12,894feet/3,930 meters), 5-7 hours. After loading our duffle bags on yaks, wedescend from base camp. We pass through Gorak Shep, Lobuche, and Phericheon our way to Pangboche for the night. We spend the night in one of oursherpa’s lodges.Day 56Trek Pangboche (12,894 feet/3,930 meters) to Namche Bazaar (11,300feet/3,444 meters), 4-6 hours. We leave Pangboche in the morning and hikedown the valley and through thick rhododendron forests to Thyangboche.Thyangboche is home to the most important and active monastery in theKhumbu and we will have time for a quick visit and lunch. We then continuewalking with a big drop down to the Dudh Khosi River and a stunningsuspension bridge. After crossing the bridge we climb again to Sanasa, andthen contour along hillsides and over small ridges until finally dropping intoNamche Bazaar.

Day 57Trek from Namche Bazaar (11,300 feet/3,444 meters) to Lukla (9,000feet/2,743 meters), 4-6 hours. Our final day of walking covers the sameground we spent 2 days climbing on the way in. Now that we are acclimatizedwe cover the distance easily, and enjoy the many suspension bridges,tumultuous rivers, small towns and monasteries. After lunch in Phakding, thetrail climbs a final 600 vertical feet (180 meters) to the airstrip in Lukla, andour final lodge where we spend the night.Day 58Fly Lukla (9,000 feet/2,743 meters) to Kathmandu. This 45-minute flightbegins with one of the most exciting takeoffs in the world. Once airborne, theflight offers incredible views of the mountains, the foothills, and finally thecity. After landing in Kathmandu we return to our hotel for an afternoon ofcelebration, great food, and perhaps much needed massages. Night in hotel.Day 59Contingency day for flights from Lukla to Kathmandu. Since the flights toand from Lukla are often delayed or cancelled due to bad weather in themountains, this is an essential extra day. If we arrive back in Kathmandu ontime, this day can be used for sightseeing in the city, shopping for souvenirs,or sleeping in and enjoying the fantastic pool at the hotel.Day 60Depart Kathmandu for home. After a final group breakfast, return to theairport to catch international flights home (Monday).*Please note the above schedule is only one possible scenario. A mountain like Everest requiresflexibility, and every year our climb is different.