Plait and twist hair - Pearson Schools

Unit GH13 

Plait and twist hair 

What you will learn: 

How to maintain effective and safe methods 

of working when plaiting and twisting hair 

Plaiting and twisting hair techniques 

How to provide aftercare advice 

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Unit GH13 


306 

NVQ/SVQ Level 2 Hairdressing 

Fact or fiction? 

Is this statement fact or fiction? 

Cornrow plaiting originated 

in India. 

To check your answer see page 

474. 

Gown client correctly for 

plaiting and twisting 

 

Correct posture is essential 

whilst plaiting and twisting hair 

Introduction 

Plaiting and twisting hair is an art and can take a long time to perfect. You will need 

a huge amount of practice of creating the five different looks necessary to gain this 

unit of your Level 2 qualification. This unit consists of using plaiting and twisting 

techniques to achieve a variety of different looks multiple cornrows, French plait, 

fishtail plait, two strand twists and flat twists. You will need to have a high level of 

manual dexterity to become competent at these techniques as many require the use 

of very small sections of hair being worked in a very intricate, methodical sequence. 

At one time plaits were only seen on small children and were personified by the 

character Heidi in the 1970’s TV programme. Plaits and twists have become more 

fashionable lately due to high profile stars such as Kylie and Fergie (from the Black 

Eyed Peas) wearing a combination of plaits and twists within their hairstyles for their 

music videos and for major events like red carpet award ceremonies. The trend has 

also been widely used on catwalks during the unveiling of the new season’s fashion 

ranges and has made its way down to the High Street. The great advantage of plaits 

and twists is that they keep the hair away from the face so a plait around the front 

hairline is practical as well as providing a funky focal point to the hairstyle. 

How to maintain effective and safe 

methods of working 

Preparing and protecting your client 

It is vital to the well-being of your client that you follow your salon’s rules for 

preparing and protecting your client during plaiting and twisting services. You must 

always consider the effects of the products you are using and their potential for 

harming your client. This will help you evaluate any risks and prevent accidents 

happening. 

Task 1 

Write down your salon’s requirements for client preparation for plaiting and twisting 

hair and keep in your portfolio for evidence. 

Posture 

You must make sure your posture is good whilst plaiting and twisting hair, as 

these services require you to bend in awkward positions so that you can get in 

the correct position to plait and twist the hair really closely into the scalp. As 

hairdressers we stand for long periods of time and poor posture can lead to fatigue 

and more permanent risks of bodily injury, especially back and shoulder problems. 

Clients should be sat comfortably and squarely in the salon chair with both feet 

on the floor or footrest for even posture. If your client has her legs crossed, ask her 

politely to uncross them, or her plaits or twists may be unevenly positioned. 

Health and safety issues 

It is also very important to protect yourself from the occupational hazard of 

the skin complaint dermatitis, which has caused such severe skin problems for 

some hairdressers that they have had to change careers. If you always wear 

gloves when necessary, this will help prevent dermatitis happening to you. 

Effective working methods 

As a salon employee or college trainee, you will be expected to use all 

products carefully and effectively. Safe and effective working methods will 

include the following: 

● Minimising the wastage of products – always use the right amount of 

product for the individual client’s hair. Never overload the hair with plaiting and 

twisting products as the excess will drip off the hair onto the client and the floor, 

causing potential health and safety risks. Wastage of product is not cost effective to 

the salon and will result in the salon’s profits declining. 

● Minimising the risk of cross-infection – during the consultation for plaiting and 

twisting hair, you will need to evaluate the condition of your client’s hair and 

scalp prior to the service. If you find any risk of cross-infection to yourself, your 

colleagues and other clients, you must not continue with the service. These 

would be classed as contraindications (see Facts about hair and skin, page 00). 

● Making effective use of your working time – you should always make the best use 

of your time in the salon. If you were an employer paying an hourly rate, would you 

pay someone for wasting time? If you do not make the most effective use of your 

working day, you will not be deemed competent for your Level 2 qualification and a 

salon owner with a business to run will not want to employ you. 

● Ensuring the use of clean resources – would you like to sit in a dirty salon or 

have dirty brushes or towels used on you? All clients have the right to know that 

the salon tools, equipment and resources used on them are totally clean and 

sterilised if necessary. A dirty salon will not attract or keep clientele. 

● Minimising the risk of harm or injury to yourself and your clients – you and your 

salon have an obligation to your clients and visitors to ensure their safety. Your 

salon also has an obligation to you as an employee to ensure your safety whilst 

you are at work. All members of the salon team must make sure they know how 

to work safely to avoid accidents happening in the salon. This can be done by 

following all of the salon’s health and safety rules and regulations. 

Task 2 

Write down what dermatitis is and explain how to avoid developing it whilst carrying out 

plaiting and twisting services. 

Practical skills – Hairdressing 

Dermatitis 

Contact dermatitis 

An inflammation or allergy of 

the skin, usually affecting the 

hands of hairdressers. It causes 

the hands to crack and bleed 

due to constantly being wet 

and coming into contact with 

certain chemicals. Drying hands 

thoroughly after shampooing, 

using a good barrier cream and 

always wearing gloves when 

touching chemicals will help 

to avoid this. Sometimes called 

contact dermatitis. 

Contraindication 

The presence of a condition that 

prevents you from carrying out 

the service, for example skin 

sensitivities, history of previous 

allergic reaction to colour 

products, known allergies, skin 

disorders, incompatible products 

or medical advice, or instructions 

not to have this service. In this 

unit a contraindication would be 

the presence of traction alopecia 

(see page 307) or folliculitis. 

Folliculitis 

Inflammation of the hair follicles. 

This can occur when the hair is 

pulled tight into plaits or twists 

which opens the follicle slightly, 

allowing bacteria to enter. The 

follicle will then become infected 

and yellow pustules will form at 

the base of the follicle. 

Plait and twist hair Unit GH13 

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Top tips 


A clean and tidy working area 

helps you work efficiently and 

presents a good professional 

image to your client. 

Working area 

Your working area must be kept clean and tidy at all times to prevent hazards and 

potential accidents. Always wipe up any spillages of water, plaiting and twisting 

products immediately to avoid slippery patches on the floor. Once you have finished 

with a piece of equipment, always put it away so you have as much space as 

possible to work in. Used towels should be placed immediately in a towel bin, so 

that it is obvious to staff and clients that they are ready for washing. 

Task 3 

What would you consider to be contraindications to plaiting and twisting hair? List five 

contraindications and explain why they would prevent you from carrying out a plaiting 

or twisting service. 

A worksheet for this task is provided on the CD-ROM for you to complete and add to 

your portfolio. 

Task 4 

How might wastage happen in your salon? How can you help to minimise wastage? 

Write down three methods and keep in your portfolio for evidence. 



Commercial timing 

It takes skill and accuracy to plait and twist hair perfectly, and you will need a great 

deal of practice before you become competent. As a Level 2 Hairdressing student, 

you have Performance Criteria (PCs) and range statements (Ranges) for plaiting and 

twisting to meet before your assessor can be sure you are competent. In addition to 

these PCs and Ranges, you also need to prove you can plait and twist the hair neatly 

and precisely in a commercially acceptable time. 

 

Plaiting and twisting hair techniques 

Consultation and communication 

A vital part of this service, as always, is a thorough consultation. You need to use 

all the good communication skills you have learned to be as confident as possible 

when asking your client questions before and during the plaiting and twisting service. 

The plaiting or twisting style chosen must be completely clear to both you and your 

client so that the finished style has been agreed. You do not want to spend time and 

effort completing intricate plaits to be told when finished that the style is not what 

the client wanted! 

A client’s lifestyle can influence the choice of style when plaiting and twisting hair. If 

the client is an active sportsperson, a style which keeps the hair away from the face 

and that needs little maintenance (cornrows) may suit the client more than twists 

which may come loose/out as they are competing in a sports event. However, some 

plaiting or twisting styles which result in the hair being tightly secured to the scalp 

may not be suitable to certain employers. 

Tools for plaiting and twisting 

It is important to use the correct tools to achieve good 

results. When plaiting and twisting you need to have a 

good quality pintail or tail comb which will have fine teeth 

for sectioning and a pointed tail which will not scratch 

the scalp. Another tool which may help you is a postiche 

brush, which is a thin brush specifically for use during long 

hair work. It has narrow bristles and a pointed end (similar 

to a tail comb) which is good for sectioning. You will also 

need a wide-toothed comb and sectioning clips to secure 

hair out of the way whilst you are working. 

Sectioning and securing 

Neat and precise (known as clean) sectioning is an important part of both plaiting 

and twisting services to ensure you work neatly and accurately and produce precise 

work. Even if your plaits and twists are perfect, if your sectioning is uneven your 

finished design will not been deemed competent. You must have a plan of the 

finished plaiting and twisting direction and design so that you can section cleanly and 

evenly. This is so you have a vision of the pattern and where you want the hair to go. 

When securing your plaits and twists you should never use normal elastic bands, as 

these will rip and tear the cuticle scales. You should only use bands for professional 

use such as covered elastics or mini silicone bands, which are specially designed to 

hold the hair securely but will also be kind to it at the same time. There are lots of 

different kinds of either covered elastic bands or silicone bands which are less abrasive 

to the cuticle scales when securing hair. Some stylists like to use pipe cleaners as 

they twist around and secure the ends of the hair without damaging it. Twists can be 

secured with grips, tiny jaw clips or bands depending on the look you are creating. 


Tools for plaiting and 

twisting – pintail comb, mini 

silicone bands and hair grips 


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Factors affecting plaiting and twisting 

Hair density 

The amount of hair your client has needs to be taken into account before plaiting or 

twisting. Sometimes the hair is too sparse for a particular style and this will need to 

be explained to your client. Also, if the client has lots of hair it will not only increase 

difficulty in sectioning but will also take longer for you to achieve the finished result. 

Hair texture 

The thickness or thinness of your client’s hair will have an effect on the finished 

plaiting or twisting style. Some hair textures are deceiving and the hair looks thicker 

than it actually is. Fine hair left long and loose can look quite normal in texture, but 

if you plait this type of hair it can look really thin and wispy. Thick hair can cause 

problems when sectioning, especially if you are doing really small and complex 

sectioning, as the thickness of the hair can get in your way. Try to be as dominant 

with the hair as you can (hold the hair with good tension and be as firm as you can 

without causing your client discomfort) and keep the hair you are not working with 

sectioned out of your way. 

Head and face shape 

When assessing your client’s head and face shape you need to take into account 

any prominent features or shapes. For example, if a client has an excessively large 

nose you would not want to give them a full head of multiple cornrows as this will 

only emphasise the client’s nose. The idea is to try to maximise any good features or 

shapes and minimise the focus on any negative features. 

Hair elasticity 

Assessing the hair’s elasticity is something you have learned about in Unit G7. 

(Go back to page 113 to refresh your memory if necessary.) The hair’s elasticity is 

important to this unit as any service that puts tension on the hair has the potential 

to break or snap delicate hair or hair with little elasticity. For this reason you should 

be wary of plaiting hair with tension or hair that you feel is weak, delicate or lacking 

in good elasticity. Some children’s hair is delicate as the protein of the hair (keratin) 

sometimes doesn’t harden fully until children reach their teenage years. 

Hair length 

The hair needs to be long enough to enable you to plait or twist it into a style. If the 

hair is not long enough it will be really difficult to create the style and the plaits or 

twists may fall out during the special occasion! Be honest with your client to avoid 

disappointment. If the hair is too long it may be too heavy to hold twists and they 

may also fall out. You would not want this to happen whilst your client is dancing at 

a special occasion ball or during the first dance at her wedding! Be honest with your 

client once you have assessed the viability of the chosen style. 

Scalp condition 

If your client has any scalp condition that is infectious (for example scabies, head 

lice, ringworm, impetigo) you must not proceed with the plaiting or twisting service 

as this will be putting you, your colleagues and the rest of the salon’s clients at risk 

of cross-infection. If your client has a condition that is not infectious but that can be 

unsightly, for example psoriasis in its dry state, then it may not be advisable to show 

the scalp by plaiting into multiple cornrows or by sectioning into small twists, which 

would make the scalp condition visible to all. 

Desired look 

Magazines and style books are ideal visual aids to show your 

client before deciding on a chosen style. It also allows you to 

be confident in knowing the style the client has chosen is the 

same style you have in your mind to create. Sometimes clients 

are not aware of the correct names for styles or techniques, so 

make sure you are both positive about the intended style result. 

Controlling the hair when plaiting 

and twisting 

To ensure you produce even plaits and twists, it is important 

to maintain a comfortable and even tension whilst working. If 

your tension is too loose, the plaits and twists will be too loose 

and may fall out. However, if your tension is excessively tight 

you will cause pain to your client and may even cause traction 

alopecia. If a client comes into the salon and you notice broken 

hair around the hairline where the hair has been plaited, you 

should advise your client to have a break from plaiting so 

that the tension in this area is relieved. If you plait hair with 

this condition you may well contribute to the breakage and a 

worsening of the condition. The client may need to see her GP 

for a referral to a trichologist. 

Task 5 

Write down the meaning of traction alopecia and explain how this condition is caused. 


Tension 

How firmly a mesh of hair 

is held during plaiting and 

twisting the hair. Tension should 

always be kept even, as uneven 

tension will produce uneven 

plaits or twists. 

Traction alopecia 

Traction alopecia 

Hair thinning or hair loss due 

to excessive tension on the hair 

follicle. This can be a result of 

wearing the hair in tight plaits 

or twists. The source of the 

tension needs to be removed 

and the client may need to be 

referred to a trichologist. 

Trichologist 

A person who is qualified to 

diagnose and treat hair and 

scalp disorders and diseases. 


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Spray, serum and gel for plaiting and twisting 

 

Multiple cornrows, lots of three-strand plaits which sit 

on top of their base. This is also known as a cane row. 

Products for plaiting and 

twisting 

There are certain products developed especially for 

helping to control the hair whilst plaiting and twisting. 

These products also help to keep the hair in shape 

once the finished result has been achieved. You need 

to follow the manufacturer’s directions when applying 

these products so that you do not overload the hair, 

making it appear greasy or too hard and crispy. This will 

also ensure you use plaiting and twisting products cost 

effectively, which will mean better profits for your salon. 

Products for plaiting and twisting are: 

● Sprays – used before or after plaiting and twisting 

hair to keep the style in place. 

● Serums – these are silicone-based products used 

before plaiting or twisting to smooth the cuticle 

scales when styling. 

● Gels – strong liquid-based products used before 

plaiting or twisting hair which dry hard to keep hair in 

place. 

Plaits and twists 

To be deemed competent in this unit you need to 

practise and create the looks below. Once you have 

practised and feel confident to produce the looks neatly 

and cleanly, you are ready for assessment. 

Fact or fiction? 

Is this statement fact or fiction? 

Cornrow plaiting is also known as cane row. 

To check your answer see page 474. 

Step-by-step French plait 

A French plait is a single inverted plait using all the client’s hair. 

1 

5 

3 

2 

6 


4 


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1 

5 

Step-by-step fishtail plait 

A fishtail plait is achieved by crossing even sections of hair over each other to create 

a herringbone look. 

3 

2 

6 

4 

Step-by-step two-strand twist 

In this style, the hair is twisted left over right, left over right until the twist is 

complete. This can be done on wet or dry hair and can be used before a twist out. 

1 

caption - tbc 

 

2 

Task 6 


Twist out 

A two-strand twist which is 

untwisted after it has dried. 

Use the Internet or magazines to research plaiting and twisting 

styles and patterns. Use the images you find to create a visual 

aid to show clients the plaiting and twisting styles available. Try 

www.virtualhaircare.com and Hairdresser’s Journal as well as 

hairstyling magazines. 


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1 

5 

Step-by-step flat twists 

In this style, the hair is rolled and twisted by hand flat to the scalp. 

3 

2 

6 

4 

How to provide aftercare advice 

In order to maintain the plaits or twists, it is important to give your client clear advice 

on suitable homecare products and their use. If your client goes home without 

knowing how to care for her plaits or twists, they are unlikely to last for the time 

generally expected. Anything rubbing or causing friction on the hair will have a 

detrimental (harmful) effect on plaits or twists. 

To ensure the condition of the hair is maintained, it is important to give guidance on 

how to remove the plaits and twists. If your client is unaware of the correct procedure 

and rips out the bands securing the plaits and tries to pull the plait out from the root, 

this will not only cause knotting but will also be painful and damage the hair. 

You should advise your client to be methodical about removing plaits and twists. Using 

a tail comb, always work from the points of the hair, undoing the plait and working up 

to the root. Use a wide-toothed comb to comb through the hair once all the plaits have 

been removed. It is advisable to carry out a deep conditioning treatment once the plaits 

or twists are removed to replace moisture and strengthen the cortex. 

Advise your client that a lot of hair may fall out once the plaits or twists are removed 

and that this is quite normal. The longer the plaits or twists have been in, the more 

hair will fall out. Explain that this is only natural hair fall which would have ended 

up in the client’s brush if the hair had not been in plaits or twists. Everyone loses 

between 80 and 100 hairs a day, and if these hairs are not able to fall out because 

they are stuck in a plait or twist, then you will see them all fall out once the plait or 

twist is removed. 

Always recommend homecare advice and products to your client so that she can 

maintain the hard work that you have carried out. For cane row plaits which may 

stay in the hair for weeks, it is advisable to recommend a light oil to keep the scalp 

moisturised. Your client may wish to shampoo the hair whilst in cane row plaits, and 

you should recommend light gentle shampooing movements using a moisturising 

shampoo to avoid drying the scalp. 

Task 7 

Write down the types of products available in your salon for plaiting and twisting. 

State when and why you would use these products. Make a note of the manufacturers’ 

instructions on how to use these products economically. 




Top tips 

A satin or silky pillow case may 

help prolong the life of plaits 

or twists. 


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Salon life 

Joy’s story 

A fragile client 

When I was training I was asked by a client to do multiple 

cornrow plaits. Although I could do cornrows easily, I was a 

bit concerned because the client’s hair looked quite fragile 

at the hairline. I asked the client if she had had problems 

with the hairline before and she said no, so I continued 

with the plaiting service. 

A couple of weeks later the client returned to the salon and 

said her hair had started to break around the hairline. When 

I looked properly at the client’s hairline, I could have cried. 

The hairline had receded right back and what was there was 

really wispy. I felt dreadful to have let this happen. I removed 

the plaits and carried out a deep penetrating conditioning 

treatment to help restore some protein and moisture to the hair. 

The client never returned to the salon and I still feel bad about 

plaiting her hair, as I should have said no to the plaits when 

I saw the hairline was weak. 

I will never make this mistake again! 

Top tips 

Never go against your instincts and 

always rely on your professionalism. 

If you don’t think you should 

carry out a service, state this to 

your client and fully explain the 

reasons why, including outlining the 

possible consequences should you 

carry out the service. 

ASK THE EXPERT 

Q Why do some clients’ hairlines become weak and break when in plaits? 

A This is due to excessive tension being placed on the hair shafts at the 

hairline. It can cause the hair to become weakened at the root, and if 

the pressure continues the hair will be pulled out and break off. It takes 

a long time for the hair to regenerate and therefore the hairline can 

look sparse for a considerable period. 

Check your knowledge 


The following questions will help you to check your understanding of this unit. The answers can be 

found on page 000. 

1 State what traction alopecia means. 

2 Why is it important to minimise the risk of cross-infection and infestation when plaiting and 

twisting hair? 

a) So that you look good to the client 

b) To ensure that you do not pass on any infections or infestations to clients and colleagues 

c) So that you do pass on any infections or infestations to clients and colleagues 

d) So that you stay clean yourself 

3 What are the potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair when plaiting and twisting? 

a) The client may lose hair through a condition called traction alopecia 

b) The client may moan at you for pulling too tight 

c) The client may not tip you if you pull too hard 

d) The client may lose hair through a condition called alopecia areata 

4 Why should you section hair accurately when plaiting and twisting hair? 

5 State three methods of securing plaits and twists. 

6 Why is it important to use products economically when plaiting and twisting hair? 

7 Why is it important to recommend homecare advice to your client after plaiting or twisting services? 

8 Why is it important to give good advice to your client regarding removing the plaits or twists? 

9 How can your client’s lifestyle influence the choice of the style of the plaits or twists? 

10 Why might there be lots of hair fall when the plaits or twists are removed? 


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Getting ready for assessment 

When you have spent a number of hours practising each of the five different looks and you feel 

confident to create the styles specified, you are ready for assessment. You have to prove you 

can create all the plaits and twists in the range: 

• Multiple cornrows – lots of three-strand plaits which sit on top of their base. This 

is also known as a cane row. 

• French plait – a single inverted plait using all the client’s hair. 

• Fishtail plait – a plait achieved by crossing even sections of hair over each 

other to create a herringbone look. 

• Two-strand twists – the hair is twisted left over right, left over right until 

the twist is complete. 

• Flat twists – the hair is rolled and twisted by hand flat to the scalp. 

You must also cover all the other range statements listed. You will be 

assessed on at least four occasions and each occasion must be for a 

different look. 

Task mapping 

When you have completed the tasks in this unit, check the table below 

to see which Performance Criteria (purple), Range (red), Knowledge 

(green) and Key Skills (blue) you have covered within Unit GH13 to use as 

additional evidence within your portfolio. 

Task and page reference Mapping to Performance Criteria, Range, Knowledge and Key Skills 

1 (page 302) Performance Criteria: 1f 

Range: − 

Knowledge: 1, 4 

Key Skills: ((tbc)) 

2 (page 303) Performance Criteria: 1b, 1f 

Range: − 

Knowledge: 3, 5, 6 


3 (page 304) Performance Criteria: 1f, 1g 

Range: − 

Knowledge: 31 


4 (page 304) Performance Criteria: 1f 

Range: − 

Knowledge: 27 


5 (page 307) Performance Criteria: − 

Range: − 

Knowledge: 14, 15, 16, 17 


6 (page 312) Performance Criteria: Practising 2a, 3a 

Range: 2a–e 

Knowledge: 19 


7 (page 313) Performance Criteria: Practising 2g, 3a, 3b 

Range: Practising 4a 

Knowledge: 25, 26, 27, 28 




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