Perfect Paddling, A Canoeists Guide to the River Wye - Forest of Dean

IntroductionThe Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) 1Wildlife 2Protected Woodlands 3Himalayan Balsam 3RiversideTrees 4History and heritage 4Industry 5The Picturesque ‘Wye Tour’ 5Overlooking the Wye 6Navigation rights and access 6Canoeists ConductCare for Wildlife 7Stay Safe 8Help Keep a Healthy River 9Be Fishing Friendly 10Consider Other People 11Safety on the River 13River Wye – Hereford to Chepstow 14Map Section 1 – Hereford to Fownhope 15Map Section 2 – Fownhope to Backney 17Map Section 3 – Backney to Kerne Bridge 19Map Section 4 – Kerne Bridge to Symonds Yat 21Map Section 5 – Symonds Yat to Monmouth 23Map Section 6 – Monmouth to Bigsweir 25Map Section 7 – Bigsweir to Lancaut 27Map Section 8 – Lancaut to Chepstow 29New Threats to the River Wye 31

IntroductionWelcome to the River Wye in the Wye Valley Area ofOutstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). This booklet will helpyou discover more about the important wildlife, history andlandscape that you will be passing through on your boat trip.This booklet also contains important safety and navigationinformation as well as the Canoeist’s Code of Conduct. Pleasetake the time to read this information and enjoy your visit tothe Wye Valley AONB.The Wye Valley Area of OutstandingNatural Beauty (AONB)The Wye Valley is an internationally important protectedlandscape containing some of the most beautiful lowlandscenery in Britain. Designated in 1971, this unique landscapestraddles the border between England and Wales. It includesareas within Gloucestershire, Forest of Dean, Herefordshireand Monmouthshire. Covering 326Km 2 there is plenty to seeand do and there are many ways to explore the area shouldyou wish to return in the future.Female Banded Damoiselle1

Otter pair eating fishWildlifeDepending on the stretch of water youtravel along you may be lucky to see someof the special wildlife that inhabits the area.The river supports good populations ofotter, an elusive and largely nocturnalanimal which feeds on fish particularly eels.In other areas you may see peregrinefalcons catching pigeons above their cliffledge haunts. However, for the observant,there is an abundance of wildlife all alongthe river and you can commonly seekingfishers, herons and dragonflies as partof a rich diversity of animals and plants. Inall there are three Special Areas ofConservation (SAC), four National NatureReserves (NNR’s) and over forty Sites ofSpecial Scientific Interest (SSSI) in the WyeValley AONB.Male Banded DamoiselleMute SwansThe River Wye is a particularly uniquehabitat and is highly protected because itcontains internationally importantpopulations of salmon, twait and allis shad,white clawed crayfish, bullhead and otter.Please take care not to disturb wildlife asyou travel downstream.2Moorhen Chick

Wye Valley bluebell woodlandsProtected WoodlandsAs you travel down the valley,particularly between Kerne Bridge andChepstow, you pass through apredominantly wooded landscape. Muchof these woodlands are eitherinternationally protected as SSSI's orSAC. Together they form one of the mostimportant lowland woodland complexesin Britain and support rare species suchas Goshawks and Lesser Horseshoe Bats.Dormouse in torporWild Garlic or RamsomsHimalayan BalsamBetween July and October you willnotice an abundance of pink floweringplants growing tall on the riverbanks.This sweet smelling plant is HimalayanBalsam, an attractive but invasive nonnativespecies that grows dominantstands on streamsides and in woodlands.Concerns are increasing over the plants’expansion both locally and nationally asit threatens to out-compete nativespecies. It is a fast growing annual thatpropagates itself every year from theabundant seed it produces.Himalayan Balsam3

RiversideTreesMost of the trees you will see growingalong the riverbank are either speciesof willow or alder. Both are importanthabitats for birds and bats. Many of thealder trees are suffering from a diseasecalled Phytothorum, a fungi that inhibitstree growth often leading to obviousdead branches.Diseased Alders near FownhopeChepstow CastleEarly HistoryAfter the last Ice Age nomadichunters moved through thearea. By the Iron Age, thedominant Silure tribe had builthillforts at Symonds Yat, GaerHill, Chase Wood and LittleDoward. The Romans exploitediron in the valley and built thetown of Ariconium near Rosson-Wye.Then the Saxons,under King Offa of Mercia, builtOffa’s Dyke, the longestarchaeological ‘Keep Out’ signin Britain. The Normansstamped their mark with stonefortresses at Chepstow,Goodrich and St Briavels. LaterCistercians founded the firstWelsh Abbey at Tintern in 1131.Bow Hauliers on the Wye, Nelson Museum4

IndustryFor centuries the Wye Valley was exploitedfor its timber, iron ore, stone and coal.Wireworks were established at Tintern in1556, boat-building in Llandogo andBrockweir, paperworks in Whitebrook andnationally important tinplate and copperworks in Redbrook. Echoing to the soundof hammers and forges, smoke wouldhave wreathed the valley and the viewswould have been very different fromtoday – fewer trees and far more people.Brockweir Quay, Nelson MuseumThe Picturesque‘Wye Tour’The Wye Valley is arguably the birth place of Britishtourism. In the 1700’s the first tourists to the areawere artists and writers floating down the Wye,armed with sketch pads and poetic leanings, on whatwas to become known as the Wye Tour. Among thenation’s first tourists were Turner, Coleridge andWordsworth. Reverend Gilpin defined thePicturesque movement from his Wye Tour in 1770,the principles of which were taken up by artists inthe theatre and cinema and are used to this day.Tintern AbbeySymonds Yat, Nelson Museum5View from Eagles Nest, Chepstow Museum

Between 2009 and 2011 theHeritage Lottery Funded‘Overlooking the Wye’ LandscapePartnership Scheme carried out work to conservethe historic environment and increase understandingof the picturesque landscape of the Wye Valley AONB.The scheme had four key themes ‘Hidden Industry’,‘River Connections’, ‘Viewpoints’ and ‘Hillforts’ andmanaged works on 40 sites through the Wye ValleyAONB Partnership. You may pass close to many ofthese sites whilst on your trip, some of which aredescribed in more detail in this booklet.Redbrook Tinworks, Nelson MuseumNavigation rights& accessThe River Wye has been used for navigation formany centuries. In the past the Wye was animportant commercial waterway. Today boatingon the river is mostly canoeing and rowing, butwith some passenger sightseeing boats operatingaround Symonds Yat.A public right of navigation extends from The Severnupstream to Hay Town Bridge on the main RiverWye and on the River Lugg between its confluencewith the Wye and Presteigne Town Bridge. Publicnavigation of this stretch upstream of BigsweirBridge is the responsibility of the EnvironmentAgency. Below Bigsweir Bridge public right ofnavigation is under the auspices of the GloucesterHarbour Trustees. The river is also tidal for thislower stretch and often dangerous for canoeists.Water wheel at Tintern,Nelson MuseumTintern Abbey, Nelson MuseumThe right of navigation does not give a right ofaccess to the riverbank other than at acceptedpublic sites; you must get the permission of thelandowner before launching and landing canoes.Permission is also needed to camp or picnic onthe banks or neighbouring fields.6The Quay at Monmouth, Nelson Museum

CanoeistsConductThe code of conduct is intended to helppeople enjoy the river without reducing theenjoyment of others or damaging theenvironment. It is expected that canoeistsfollow the code on all river trips.Care for WildlifeOne of the joys of a trip on the River Wye is watching its abundant wildlife.We have a responsibility to protect our countryside now and for futuregenerations, so make sure you don’t harm animals, birds, plants and trees.Some fish species are particularly sensitive to disturbance, especially during thespawning seasons. During winter salmon spawn in the upper reaches of the Wye.Between 1st of April and 31st July many coarse fish are breeding and Twait andAllis Shad use shallow gravel beds for egg laying. Please do not land on gravelbeds during this period and at all other times try to:7• Avoid disturbing nestingbirds along the riverbanks, particularly inspring time• Avoid damaging bedsof waterweed• Stop your activity ifyou are clearly disturbingwildlifeThe river habitat and manyof the species it supportsare protected by law.Ignoring this advice couldresult in a criminal offencebeing committed, and youmay be subject toenforcement action

Stay SafeYou are responsible for your own safety and for others in your care, so beprepared for changes in the weather and other events. The river conditions canchange rapidly. We advise you to check the river level just prior to your trip via theEnvironment Agency’s automated telephone service on 0906 6197755 (BTpremium rate). Alternatively the Wye and Usk Foundation provide free river levelinformation on their website www.wyeuskfoundation.org/conditions/index.phpWhen planning or partaking in your river trip always consider:• That you use the river in a safefashion and that you have theappropriate safety equipment• That any groups of young noviceboaters are led by suitablyexperienced responsible persons– preferably a qualified instructor• That you don’t drink alcoholduring and just prior to your tripon the river• That you follow instructionsgiven to you by your canoe hireoperator and/or group leaderAnd finally. …if in doubt, don’t!8

Help Keep aHealthy RiverThe River Wye boasts excellent waterquality in a largely unmodified watercourse. You can help maintain ahealthy river by:• Taking your rubbish away with you• Avoiding damage to banks, theriverbed and bankside vegetation -this can lead to erosion. You canhelp by only launching and landingat purpose made launch points• Avoid dragging boats andequipment over rock slabsand stones.9

Be Fishing FriendlyCanoeing and kayaking can have a bigger impact on anglers than any other riverusers, particularly if you are in a large group. By following a few simpleguidelines you can limit the effect your boating will have on anglers and theirenjoyment. If you are travelling in a group please keep together and pass anglersin one go to prevent prolonged disturbance, and in all instances try to:• Pass anglers with as little noise and disturbance as possible• Keep away from banks being fished and fishing tackle• Avoid loitering in pools if anyone is fishing• Comply with reasonable directional requestsPlease also note that fishing from a boat is not allowed unless you have a validrod licence and permission from the owner/tenant of the fishery rights.10

Consider Other PeopleShowing consideration and respect for other people makes the countryside apleasant environment for everyone. Pay particular respect to local residents andavoid situations that may result in argument and remember to always:• Park sensibly without causing obstruction, do not block gatewaysor load and unload vehicles in awkward places• Keep noise to a minimum• Get changed out of public view• Whenever possible come ashore at recognised landing places;do not trespass on private property or moorings11

• When canoeing have special regard for beginners, as you wouldfor learner drivers on the road• Remember that larger boats are less manoeuvrable and cannot usesuch shallow waters as canoes, rafts and rowing boats• Give way to those engaged in organised competition and have regardto any instructions given by officials• Hail to draw a person’s attention to a situation which might otherwiseresult in inconvenience, damage or collision. Please treat a hail as afriendly warning and not as an insultThere is an agreement for canoeing on the upper river. Details can be found atwww.wyeuskfoundation.org/navigation/index.php12

Safety on the RiverTintern Abbey in the mist, Linda WightThe Wye can be dangerous and has been the cause of many accidents. It is at itsmost dangerous when there are strong currents, high water levels or cold weatherconditions. Don’t take risks and never underestimate the power of the river. The Wyeis a fast flooding river, which can rise after heavy rain at a rate of over 30cm an hour.TidesBelow Bigsweir Bridgethe Wye is tidal and canbe very dangerous,especially below Tintern.If you intend to canoethis stretch, leaveTintern no later thanone hour after highwater and travel downwithout stopping.Inexperienced canoeistsare advised to avoid thisstretch and should on noaccount travel belowChepstow, as currents inthe Severn Estuary areextremely dangerous.Health and HygieneThe water quality of the Wye is generally good, but containsnatural bacteria and other micro-organisms. Although the risk ofcontracting an illness is small, there are sensible precautions whichcan help you stay healthy:• Do not swallow river water;• Cover cuts or sores with gloves or waterproof plasters;• Where possible, wash or shower after taking part inwater sports, especially if you have capsized;• Wash your hands before eating;• See your doctor if you feel ill after exposure to thewater. If you develop flu like symptoms it is possibleyou may have contracted Leptospirosis(a rare disease, but one which can have seriouscomplications).Have a good trip!13

A 49MAP SECTION 1Herefordto FownhopeMAP SECTION 2Fownhopeto Backney- - - -River WyeHereford toChepstowyMAP SECTION 3Backneyto Kerne Bridge∞MAP SECTION 4Kerne Bridgeto Symonds YatMAP SECTION 5Symonds Yatto Monmouth∞‹Ÿæ∞©z9åt∞9∞MAP SECTION 6Monmouthto Bigsweirå∞‹∞å©‹∞å‹Ÿ æås9∞s- - - -MAP SECTION 7Bigsweirto Lancaut∞∞å‹‹‹∞ ‹åŸ‹ ‹å∞ å‹9‹ z‹trMAP SECTION 8Lancautto Chepstow‹Ÿæ∞©z9ååRiver Wyet814© Crown copyright. All rightsreserved. 100024168. (2011)

River LuggMAP SECTION 1Hereford to FownhopeDISTANCE • 9 miles • 4 hours• HerefordRiver WyeLucksall Camp SiteSituated 200m downstream ofthe modern Holme LacyBridge is Lucksall camp site,open 1 March – 30 November.Landing at the site is by priorpermission only (tel. 01432870213). The site has a shop,shower, toilets and water.Mordiford• Lucksall Camp SiteHolme Lacy •• Fownhope© Crown copyright. All rightsreserved. 100024168. (2011)15View from Capler Viewpoint

Mordiford VillageMordiford Bridge and ChurchMordiford village grew up around an ancient ford over the River Lugg. The river isnow crossed by the oldest surviving bridge in Herefordshire, dating in part to c. 1352and completed in the 16th century. Legend has it that Mordiford was once terrorisedby a dragon that lived in nearby Haugh Wood. The dragon, green in colour, was said tohave loved a small girl named Maud who resided in Mordiford and had nurtured itfrom infancy. When the dragon grew it desired meat and started devouring sheep andcattle and on occasion even the locals! Only Maud remained safe from its reign upuntil it was eventually slain by a local nobleman.Mordiford is also where the river Lugg flows into the Wye (the Lugg enters from theleft) and the boundary of the Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).Hereford CityRiverbank at FownhopeThe name ‘Hereford’ is said to come fromthe Anglo Saxon ‘here’, an army orformation of soldiers, and the ‘ford’, aplace for crossing a river. The City’s mostfamous landmark is its Cathedral whichdates from 1079 and contains the MappaMundi, a medieval map of the worlddating from the 13th century. It alsocontains the world famous ChainedLibrary. The city is an importantagricultural trading place. Locallydistinctive products include; cider andHerefordshire cattle. The city is alsoknown for being home to the BritishSpecial Air Service (SAS).16

MAP SECTION 2Fownhope to BackneyDISTANCE • 15 miles • 7 hours• FownhopeCamping and launch/landing points aresituated on both banks ofthe river at Hoarwithy.On right bank shortly Ballingham •after bridge take the steps to the top of thebank. Water and toilets available and easyaccess to the village pub. Contact Mrs Roberts,Tresseck Farm (01432 840235)open Easter – endSeptember.Capler CampCapler ViewpointHoarwithyCamp site,the NewHarp InnandHoarwithyChurchKings CapleFoy•Hole inthe WallSellackFootbridgeBackney •HoarwithyThe attractive village of Hoarwithyis dominated by the remarkable ItalianateChurch of St Catherine. The original church,built in 1840 by Reverend Thomas Hutchinson,was a simple rectangular stone structure.When William Poole became vicar in 1854 hewas not impressed and decided to beautify itusing sandstone in a Romanesque style. Thechurch has since been used in many films andis an unusual, eye catching landmark.© Crown copyright. All rightsreserved. 100024168. (2011)17Entrance to Hoarwithy Church

Capler Camp and ViewpointAt this point the wooded slope to your left rises up 150m (500 feet) to the IronAge hillfort of Capler Camp. The camp was occupied from 500BC to approximately200-300AD. Recent Geo-Physical surveys discovered evidence of a round house,possibly with a stone floor and central fire pit. The popular Capler Viewpoint issituated on the nearby Fownhope to Brockhampton Road with spectacular viewswest across the river and rolling Herefordshire countryside.On the riverside below Capler Hill is the remains of a small quarry where stonewas extracted and taken by barge upstream to Hereford for the construction ofthe cathedral.Foy and Hole in the WallFoy footbridgeA single span suspension bridge, builtin 1919, links these two riverside hamlets.According to the Domesday recordsHole in the Wall was originally called‘Turlestone’, a name meaning ‘Hole Stone’.It was the location of the early episodesof the apocalyptic 1970’s TV series‘Survivors’ by Terry Nation. The serieshas recently been remade. It was also thefirst PGL outdoor activity centre. Founder,Peter Gordon Lawrence (PGL) startedwhat is now a multi-million poundcompany in 1957 with canoeing andcamping trips down the Wye.Sellack Boat FootbridgeFoSellack Boat connects Kings Caple withSellack, and as the name suggests itwas a ferry crossing replaced by thefoot bridge in 1895. It is also told thatone vicar in earlier times used stilts toford the Wye here to avoid a lengthydetour. Under the bridge is a stonebuilt into the buttress with theinscription - ‘To the honour of God andthe lasting union of these parishes’.18Sellack foot bridge and church

MAP SECTION 3Backney to Kerne BridgeBackney•DISTANCE • 8 miles • 3.5 hours© Crown copyright. All rightsreserved. 100024168. (2011)View south from Wilton BridgeThe Wye TourUse middle arch ofthe Wilton Bridge,and channel to theright of the islandWilton BridgeRosson-WyeRoss-on-Wye was traditionally thestarting point for the ‘Wye Tour’ whichin the late eighteenth and earlynineteenth centuries was popular withartists and poets. At this time it wasfashionable to take a boat tourdown the Wye Valley, to view itsromantic sites and picturesquelandscape. These early ‘tourists’dined at specific locations, tookwalks to particular viewpointsand visited specific romanticruins, making the ‘Wye Tour’one of the first ‘package holidays’Their historic journey can be repeatedtoday by navigating the river in acanoe or kayak allowing you to viewsights that inspired the likes ofGoodrichColeridge, Turner and Wordsworth.Kerne Bridge LaunchLanding at steps on left bank 800m below ancientroad bridge. Picnic site and car park. No permissionrequired. Please do not land/ launch at the bridge.The ‘Inn on the Wye’ Public House is a shortwalk up the road from the launch. 19GoodrichCastleRoss-on-Wye is situatedon a horseshoe bend inthe river from the A40bridge to Wilton Bridge.Landing steps are situated100m downstream of theHope and Anchor Pub, nopermission required.Please do not land atWilton Bridge furtherdownstream.Kerne Bridge• Canoe launch

Goodrich CastleGoodrich CastleGoodrich stands majestically on a woodedhill commanding the passage of the RiverWye as it enters the Wye gorge. The castle’sconstruction began in the late 11th centuryand is considered to be one of the mostcomplete sets of medieval domesticbuildings surviving in any English castle.During the Civil War, Goodrich was heldsuccessively by both sides, Sir HenryLingen's Royalists eventually surrendered in1646 from threats of undermining the castleand a deadly Parliamentarian canon, thefamous 'Roaring Meg', the only survivingCivil War canon.Wilton CastleWilton Castle was originally aNorman earthwork motte and baileyfortress. It was originally built toguard the important strategicposition where the road betweenAnglo-Saxon England and Walescrossed the River Wye. As part oftheir plan to consolidate their holdon their newly acquired land theNormans embarked on a vastprogram of castle building whichincluded, in the Twelfth Century,construction of a new castle atWilton using the locally availablesandstone. In the 16th Century,Charles Brydges built an Elizabethanmansion on the site of the keep andgatehouse but it was attacked andburnt during the Civil War. Part ofthe ruined mansion wassubsequently rebuilt and is nowinhabited, parts of the Castle areopen to the public periodically.20Wilton WharvesWilton CastleAt one time Wilton had wharves bothupstream and downstream of the bridgeon the western bank of the river. This iswhere barges were loaded and unloadedwith goods. Large warehouses were onceassociated with these wharves to storegoods, but little evidence of theseremain. Only one wharf downstream ofthe bridge is now visible.

Map Section 4Kerne Bridge to Symonds YatDISTANCE • 8 miles • 2.5 hoursSymonds Yat West Please look out forpassenger carrying pleasure boats and arope ferry for crossing the river that arebased here. Landing at Ye Olde Ferrie Inneon the right bank. Permission required fromthe Inn (Tel 01600 890 232).Kerne Bridge• Canoe launch© Crown copyright. All rightsreserved. 100024168. (2011)LydbrookRailway BridgeWelsh BicknorYouth HostelSymondsYat WestNew WeirForgeYatRockViewPointColdwellRocksSymondsYat EastLydbrook• English BicknorLowerLydbrookWelsh Bicknor Church and Youth Hostel on rightbank followed by a railway bridge, now used as afootbridge. This is an important fishing stretch anda good place to see salmon. Please pass throughquietly and do not linger.Lower Lydbrook Inn on left bank above rapids.Keep to the left of the island down Lydbrookshallows. Landing on the left bank at the steps to thepicnic site and car park. Launching for individualsbut NOT groups. Donations requested in honesty box.Lydbrook was once a hive of metal working industry and abusy river port, although little evidence of these survive.Parts of the Trans Atlantic cable were manufactured in theLydbrook cable works just downstream from the old railwaybridge. There used to be a large railway viaduct thatstraddled the village but this was dismantled in the 1960s.Welsh Bicknor Church21

Yat RockAs you follow the sweep of the river underColdwell Rocks the Yat Rock viewpoint comes intoview, noticeable by its flagpole. The most famousof the Wye Valley viewpoints, it is visited byhundreds of thousands of visitors a year toappreciate the scenery and watch the peregrinefalcons. It is also an Iron Age hillfort and theramparts of the hillfort are still visible asconcentric ‘curves’ which cross the pathway fromthe car park to the log cabin. It was also verypopular on the Wye Tour as many tourists lefttheir boats and walked up to the viewpoint at YatRock whilst the crew rowed the boat around thefour mile loop to meet them on the other side.Coldwell Rocks near Symonds YatLinda WrightPeregrine Falconsand Coldwell RocksThe impressive cliffs thattower up to your left at thispoint are called ColdwellRocks and since 1982 haveprovided home to successivefamilies of peregrine falcons.From April to August theycan frequently be seen fromthe river as they hunt andraise their young. Theperegrine is the fastestanimal in the world. The birdspair for several years andraise broods of up to fouryoung. They live on mediumsizedbirds often catchingwood pigeons in flight. Otherbirds of prey such asgoshawks and buzzards canalso be seen here.New Weir Forge, Symonds Yat WestNew Weir Forge is located on the right bank,opposite the island by the rapids and was in usefrom at least the 1590s and up until the 1800s.This was one of the many sites in the Wye Valleyand Forest of Dean involved in iron production.The site would have been chosen because of theproximity of iron ore from the Forest, charcoalfrom the woodland and water to power thewaterwheels. New Weir is so named because ofthe weir that controlled water flow into theironworks. Boats would have navigated the rivervia a lock which was on the left bank. The slagfrom the furnace and the remains of the Weirare now part of the island and rapids.22Pleasure cruises at Symonds Yat

Map Section 5Symonds Yat to MonmouthDISTANCE • 5 miles • 2 hoursExcavations at New Weir ForgeSeven SistersThe Lower Wye landscape was formed by the riveracting on a series of rock layers that dip towards theeast and the Forest of Dean. The river cuts throughcarboniferous limestone to form a gorge withsubstantial river cliffs such as the Seven Sisters.Monmouth and its QuayRainbow over Wyastoneand the River Wye23Canoe Launch •MonmouthMonmouthThe river runsalongside the A40 forapproximately 1 mileon the approach toMonmouth. Landingat the second set ofsteps on the rightimmediatelydownstream of rowingclub by the car park.No permissionrequired. The town isa short walk from thecanoe launch wherethere are numerousshops and services.Dixton ChurchMonmouth was the half way stage on the Wye Tour wheretravellers would stop overnight in one of the town’s manyhotels and inns. The impressive and recently restored ShireHall is situated in Monmouth’s Agincourt Square. Erected in 1724, the building wasdesigned to house two "Courts ofJudicature" and a room for the Grand Jury atAssizes and Sessions. One of the most famous trials held here was that of theleaders of the Chartists, originally condemned to death but subsequentlytransported to Van Diemen´s Land.The Quay that is visible today is only a small part of the river port that existedhere since Roman times, in the 19th century warehouses dominated the riversidescene. These were demolished in the 1960s when the dual carriageway was built.The remaining quay was restored in 2009.

© Crown copyright. All rights reserved. 100024168. (2011)• Little Doward HillfortSymonds Yat WestLimekilnKing Arthurs Cave •SevernSistersRocksNew WeirForgeSymondsYatEastKing Arthurs CaveBiblinsFootbridgeHigh above the present day River Wye on Little Doward Hill is evidencethat the river once flowed far from its current course. Limestone cliffshave been eroded and worn smooth by the Wye’s running water andformed numerous caves. One of these is King Arthur’s Cave, an importantsite showing early human occupation from Palaeolithic times (during theStone Age, 10,000 to 12,000 years ago). Early excavations by the Revd W SSymond in 1871 also found the remains of hyena, lion, cave and brownbears, giant Irish elk, reindeer, mammoth, woolly rhino and a horse! Manyof the bones had been gnawed by hyenas.Little Doward HillfortLittle Doward to your right has an Iron Age Hillfort at its summit and alimekiln at the foot of the hill, close by the Wye Valley Walk alongside theriver. This hillfort is protected by arampart and steep cliffs. Thesurrounding landscape was changedfrom common land in the early 19thcentury into a private deer park and‘designed landscape’ by RichardBlakemore, an ironmaster at WyastoneLeys. In 2008 conifers were cleared toreveal the features of the hillfort, openup viewpoints and restore the site tonatural limestone grassland habitat.Little Doward Hillfort24

Map Section 6Monmouth to BigsweirDISTANCE • 6 miles • 2.5 hoursJunction of RiverMonnow River Monnowjoins the Wye from theright. Beware ofunderwater obstructionsresulting from thedemolition of the tworailway bridges. Rockyshallows in this area.RedbrookMonmouthRiver MonnowCanoe •LaunchKymin© Crown copyright. All rightsreserved. 100024168. (2011)RedbrookVillage with shop onleft and inn on right.Large boulders inriver. Disused railwaybridge now used as afootbridge.The village of Redbrook has a long industrialpast at one time home to more than 40 forges andmills for both iron and copper production (more than26 copper furnaces were at work in 1725). Ironworkings turned many of the tributary streams redgiving the village its name. Later the village becameworld renowned for manufacturing high quality tinplatewhich continued until 1962. Railways also made theirimpact on the village with the Penallt viaduct crossingthe river and a tramway and railway bringing coal downfrom the Forest of Dean. In 1880 an act of piracy tookplace in Redbrook when a mob captured a barge andseized its cargo of wheat and flour.Prisk WoodPenallt ViaductRedbrookBigsweir BridgeElegant roadbridge on theA466. Note thatthis is the upstreamlimit of tidal water.Rapids 800mdownstream ofbridge.WhitebrookBigsweirView north from Penallt viaduct Linda Wright25

The KyminThe small two-storey circular Georgianbanqueting house, also known as theRound House, that stands on top ofThe Kymin was built in 1794 by theMonmouth Picnic Club. Guests whocame here received instructions onhow to observe the views in the‘correct’ Picturesque manner. A NavalTemple was built in 1801 and whenNelson visited Monmouth the followingyear guns boomed out from theTemple to greet him as his boat cameinto view on the river below. Nelson itis said enjoyed a ‘handsome’ breakfastin the Round House. The site is nowowned by The National Trust and isopen to the public.The Kymin Roundhouse, Linda WrightWhitebrookAt this point the Whitebrook streamflows into the river on your right. TheWhitebrook Valley was an importantwater-powered industrial basebetween the 17th and 19th centuries.A branch of Tintern wireworks wasestablished here in 1606, and wireworking continued to be the mainindustry of the valley until about 1720.By about 1760, paper mills had takenover, and much of the housing in thevalley was built for millworkersaround that time. Pollution from thepaper mills turned the brook whitegiving the village its name.26Remains of the old viaduct at Monmouth

Map Section 7Bigsweir to LancautBigsweirDISTANCE • 9 miles • 4 hoursBrockweir (and downstream)Village on left with shop and an inn. Landingat Brockweir Quay on left bank just upstreamof the bridge. Can be awkward and muddy. Nopermission required. Old Station Tintern, now ateashop , information centre and picnic site, canbe accessed by crossing the bridge and walkinghalf a mile along the old railway trackLlandogo •Important: Downstream from Brockweir, the rivershould only be used by canoeists with reasonableexperience. There is currently no landing site atTintern or downstream until Chepstow. Dangerousweirs are exposed at low water. The tide isconsiderable and canoeists should leave no laterthan one hour after high water and travelstraight through to Chepstow. High water atTintern is four hours before Dover.LowerWireworksOld StationTinternAbbey •Mill TinternLimekiln AbbeyBrockweirQuayDevilsPulpitTintern AbbeyTintern AbbeyBuilt by Cistercian monks in 1131, TinternAbbey was the architectural highlight ofthe Wye Tour, a tourist destination sincethe 1750s when The Duke of Beaufortcleared the interior of the Abbey andlaid a lawn to make it easier forvisitors to view the ruins.27Lancaut Church© Crowncopyright. Allrights reserved.100024168.(2011)

Brockweir QuayBrockweir QuayBrockweir Quay is the last remaining functional quayon the Wye. In the 17th and 18th centuries, large trowsnavigated from Bristol and Chepstow on a high tide tounload goods on to smaller barges. These were pulledupstream by teams of men called ‘bow hauliers’ toMonmouth, Ross and Hereford. Ships were built here inthe 17th and 18th centuries. It was a busy port withvessels loading and unloading cargoes, sailors andcrew working the trows and steamers, and the noise ofconstruction and repairs.The Angidy ValleyIndustrial activity began in the Angidy Valley in the 1500s. By 1800 up to 20waterwheels powered furnaces and mills along the river. Two of these sites arestill accessible using the footpath which follows the route of the leat from LowerWireworks upstream to Angidy Furnace. In 1568 the first brass in Britain wasproduced in Tintern, whilst later part of the trans-atlantic cable wasmanufactured in Lower Wireworks. The site was convenient, as the Wye offeredtransportation, the Angidy stream water power, trees in nearby woods providedcharcoal fuel and the Forest of Dean iron ore.Abbey MillAbbey Mill was an important part of the industrial heritage of Tintern wheregoods were loaded on to vessels in the tidal dock that was here until the dockwas filled in as part of a flood alleviation scheme. Originally the site was used tomill corn for the nearby Tintern Abbey and was possibly also used as a woollenmill. Finally the site was used as a wood turnery and saw mill until the 1970s.Today the Abbey Mill complex houses craft shops and a licensed restaurant.Devil’s PulpitView of Tintern Abbey fromDevil’s Pulpit, Linda Wright28Nestled high in the trees to the southeast of Tintern Abbey is ‘Devil’s Pulpit’a popular viewpoint on the Offa’s DykePath National Trail. Devil’s Pulpit itselfis a small rocky outcrop that overlooksthe Abbey. According to local legend,the Devil used to preach from theoutcrop and attempt to seduce theabbey's monks away from Christianity.

Map Section 8Lancaut to ChepstowEagle'sNestDISTANCE • 2.5 miles • 1.5 hoursPiercefield Park –a designed landscapeThe wooded landscape ofPiercefield Park contains theremains of paths laid out byValentine Morris in the 1750s.Morris’s picturesque walks hadviewpoints and features along theroute and were extremely popularwith tourists on the Wye Tour. Infact, Piercefield became anunmissable attraction on the WyeTour as Gilpin wrote, “Mr Morris’simprovements at Persfield.... aregenerally thought as much worth atraveller’s notice, as anything onthe banks of the Wye.”GiantsCaveMany of Morris’s features remainand underwent substantialconservation works in 2009. TheWye Valley Walk links a sequence ofviewpoints called The Alcove, ThePlatform, The Grotto, Giant’s Cave,Lover’s Leap and Eagle’s NestLover’sLeapThe GrottoPiercefield Park •The PlatformThe AlcoveLancautChurchChepstow CastleChepstowChepstowLanding on slipwaynear Boat Inn. Pleasenote that landing hereusually involves wadingthrough soft mud thatcan be very dangerous.Wyntour'sLeapandViewpointChepstow• Old Bridge& RailwayBridgeImportant: Canoeistsare recommended notto attempt to canoebelow Chepstow as thejunction with the RiverSevern has verydangerous currents© Crown copyright. All rightsreserved. 100024168. (2011)Eagles Nest viewpoint29

Wyntours LeapLancaut ChurchThe remains of Lancaut Church,nestled on the banks of the Wye, canbe seen on your left as you completethe meander around the Lancautpeninsula. The name is derived fromLlan Cewydd, a 6th Century WelshSaint to which the church wasoriginally dedicated although later itsdedication was changed to St James.The church is thought to date from themid-twelfth century but received majorrestoration work in the 18th century. Itcontinued to serve a smallcongregation before falling out of usearound 1865. Conservation works herehave involved the re-construction ofthe churchyard wall.One of the finest viewpoints on the Wye is from Wyntours Leap situated high atop thecliffs on your left. The views can be accessed via the Offa’s Dyke Path National Trail.Legend has it that Sir John Wyntour, an ardent Royalist, burnt Whitecross House in1645 to stop it falling into the hands of the Roundheads. Fleeing the Roundheads onhorseback he was said to have jumped off the cliffs at Woodcroft. However, he mayhave known a ‘secret’ path down to the river and therefore evaded capture, but theescapade gave rise to the name ‘Wyntours Leap’ for the cliff face.Chepstow CastleIn the late eighteenth century the ruins of Chepstow Castle were the highlight at theend of the Wye Tour. The Castle is the oldest surviving stone fortification in Britain.Construction started from 1067 under the instruction of the Norman Lord WilliamFitzOsbern, later made Earl of Hereford and was the southernmost of a chain ofcastles built along the English-Welsh border in the Welsh Marches.Chepstow MuseumLancaut ChurchView from Wyntours LeapTo find out more about the Picturesque tour and the Wye Valley take the time to visitChepstow Museum. This also has extensive material about the Piercefield Estate andits people. Similarly it describes local industries in Chepstow and houses an exampleof a stopnet fishing boat which was used to catch salmon in the Wye. You can alsoexperience a ‘virtual’ Wye Tour to compare to your canoe trip.30

NEW THREATS TO THE RIVER WYEImportant Information for canoeistsAll river users benefit from ahealthy aquatic environment.Clothing and equipment that hasnot been thoroughly dried ordisinfected can carry invasivespecies and diseases that caninfect water bodies, often withdevastating effects. Crayfishplague is just such a disease.Another potentially damagingplague is Gyrodactylus salaris(GS) which affects salmon andthis could and be brought in fromthe continent. It has devastatedrivers in Norway.Another, more recent threat hascome from the killer shrimpDikerogammarus villosus, adestructive species that hasarrived in UK waters from EasternEurope. It too could have adevastating effect on wildlife andfish. They can easily betransported in the webbing andwater in the bottom of canoesand kayaks.To reduce the risk of Crayfishplague ,GS and killer shrimpspreading in UK waters it isimportant to take the followingprecautions.WHAT YOU MUST DOIf you intend to reuse your canoeingequipment on trips to different UKwaters or abroad and there will be lessthan a seven day gap between yourtrips, you must ensure that yourclothing and equipment has beenproperly sterilised through one of thefollowing methods.METHOD ADrying to a minimum of 20 degCfor at least 2 days.Method BHeating to above 60 degCfor at least one hour.Method CDeep freezing for at least one day.Method DImmersion of materials in a solutionof, or addition of one of thefollowing chemicals to theconcentration indicated for aminimum of 10 minutes:• Virkon 1%• Wescodyne 1%• Sodium chloride (common salt) 3%• Sodium hydroxide 0.2%31

Canoeists below Yat Rock

Canoes at Symonds Yat‘This project has been supported by Advantage West Midland’s Natural Assets Programme in partnership with Natural England’Wye Valley A.O.N.B. Office, Hadnock Road, Monmouth, Monmouthshire, NP25 3NGwww.wyevalleyaonb.org.ukwww.environment-agency.gov.uk