an in depth study of an escape from india - the collected writings of ...
an in depth study of an escape from india - the collected writings of ...
an in depth study of an escape from india - the collected writings of ...
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1<br />
AN IN DEPTH STUDY OF AN<br />
ESCAPE FROM INDIA<br />
by<br />
Rabbi Dr. Chaim Simons<br />
Kiryat Arba, Israel<br />
chaimsimons@gmail.com<br />
2012<br />
© Copyright. Chaim Simons. 2012
3<br />
NOTE TO THE READER<br />
Needless to say, this book should not be taken as <strong>an</strong> endorsement for<br />
drug smuggl<strong>in</strong>g. It is a very serious crime. However, <strong>the</strong>re have been a<br />
number <strong>of</strong> cases where highly respected people with good hearts, were<br />
asked to take a suit case to <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r country, which <strong>the</strong>y were told<br />
conta<strong>in</strong>ed, for example, clo<strong>the</strong>s, but completely unknown to <strong>the</strong> carriers,<br />
drugs had been secreted <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> suit case. This has <strong>of</strong>ten resulted <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />
<strong>in</strong>nocent carriers f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>mselves <strong>in</strong> jail <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>n be<strong>in</strong>g put on trial,<br />
<strong>of</strong>ten after several years <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>carceration. Should, however, after a fair<br />
trial, a person be found guilty <strong>of</strong> know<strong>in</strong>gly smuggl<strong>in</strong>g drugs, that person<br />
should, unquestionably be punished accord<strong>in</strong>gly.
5<br />
Ronen Dvash, <strong>the</strong>n a young Israeli <strong>in</strong> his early 30s, married <strong>an</strong>d one young daughter,<br />
was arrested at Mumbai airport <strong>in</strong> June 2004, on suspicion <strong>of</strong> try<strong>in</strong>g to smuggle drugs<br />
<strong>in</strong>to India. Whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>in</strong> fact this was <strong>the</strong> case, or he was just <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>nocent person<br />
carry<strong>in</strong>g for someone as a favour a suitcase whose contents he was unaware <strong>of</strong>, is<br />
outside <strong>the</strong> scope <strong>of</strong> this book.<br />
What is relev<strong>an</strong>t is that a person suspected <strong>of</strong> committ<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>y crime is entitled as a<br />
basic hum<strong>an</strong> right to a speedy trial. Periodically, dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> Ronen’s<br />
<strong>in</strong>carceration, he was taken to <strong>the</strong> courthouse, but <strong>in</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> judge arr<strong>an</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g for a<br />
trial, he was repeatedly rem<strong>an</strong>ded. It is reported that <strong>in</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> judge listen<strong>in</strong>g to<br />
<strong>the</strong> details <strong>of</strong> his case, <strong>the</strong> judge kept doz<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>f!<br />
Me<strong>an</strong>while he was kept <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Mumbai Arthur Road Jail under <strong>the</strong> most <strong>in</strong>hum<strong>an</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d<br />
life threaten<strong>in</strong>g conditions, which were <strong>in</strong> complete violation <strong>of</strong> even a convicted<br />
prisoner’s most basic rights. In this jail <strong>the</strong>re was a gross overcrowd<strong>in</strong>g; <strong>the</strong> food<br />
conta<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>an</strong>ts <strong>an</strong>d stones; both <strong>the</strong> s<strong>an</strong>itary conditions <strong>an</strong>d medical treatment could<br />
well be described as nonexistent, so much so, that prisoners regularly contracted life<br />
threaten<strong>in</strong>g diseases <strong>from</strong> which some died. All <strong>the</strong>se above mentioned facts will be<br />
subst<strong>an</strong>tiated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> this book.<br />
It was <strong>in</strong> this jail, that Ronen contracted malaria <strong>an</strong>d his life was <strong>in</strong> serious d<strong>an</strong>ger. His<br />
only salvation was to <strong>escape</strong>. This fact was also realised by highly respected Rabbis<br />
<strong>an</strong>d Org<strong>an</strong>isations who would try <strong>an</strong>d assist him to achieve this objective. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to<br />
Ronen’s book “Escape <strong>from</strong> India” <strong>an</strong>d his subsequent lectures, <strong>the</strong>se <strong>in</strong>cluded Rabbi<br />
Yitzchak Grossm<strong>an</strong> <strong>of</strong> Migdal Haemek, <strong>the</strong> Rishon Lezion <strong>an</strong>d former Chief Rabbi<br />
Ovadiah Yosef, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Chabad <strong>an</strong>d Habayit Hayehudi Org<strong>an</strong>isations.<br />
A positive result <strong>of</strong> Ronen’s <strong>in</strong>carceration was that he went <strong>in</strong>to jail as a “secular” Jew<br />
<strong>an</strong>d came out as a Jew who despite <strong>the</strong> horrendous prison conditions observed as<br />
m<strong>an</strong>y mitzvot (Jewish religious precepts) as he could.<br />
The purposes <strong>of</strong> this book are:<br />
1. To use <strong>the</strong> text <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> book “Escape <strong>from</strong> India” <strong>in</strong> order to reconstruct details<br />
<strong>of</strong> Ronen’s <strong>escape</strong> journey <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> JJ hospital <strong>in</strong> Mumbai (Bombay) until Ben<br />
Gurion Airport <strong>in</strong> Israel. To accomplish this aim, maps <strong>an</strong>d various timetables <strong>an</strong>d<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r <strong>in</strong>formation were utilised. The book <strong>of</strong>ten gave very sketchy details <strong>of</strong><br />
Ronen’s <strong>escape</strong> route <strong>an</strong>d it was <strong>the</strong>refore not always possible to reconstruct <strong>the</strong><br />
precise route, <strong>an</strong>d sometimes some guesses had to be made or several alternative<br />
routes put forward. It was also found that <strong>the</strong> times given for gett<strong>in</strong>g between
6<br />
various places were sometimes <strong>in</strong>correct, but this is underst<strong>an</strong>dable, s<strong>in</strong>ce Ronen<br />
could not be expected to remember such details precisely.<br />
2. To give detailed background <strong>in</strong>formation on <strong>the</strong> various places Ronen passed<br />
through, <strong>the</strong> various org<strong>an</strong>isations he came <strong>in</strong> contact with, <strong>the</strong> different modes <strong>of</strong><br />
tr<strong>an</strong>sport he utilised, <strong>the</strong> Jewish religious practices he observed on his journey, <strong>an</strong>d<br />
m<strong>an</strong>y more th<strong>in</strong>gs.<br />
The method which will be used <strong>in</strong> this book will be to br<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> italics brief quotes<br />
toge<strong>the</strong>r with <strong>the</strong> page number <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> book “Escape <strong>of</strong> India” (by Avigail Myzlik,<br />
English tr<strong>an</strong>slation, second edition, 2009) <strong>an</strong>d this will be followed by comments <strong>in</strong><br />
normal pr<strong>in</strong>t.<br />
This book is meticulously documented <strong>an</strong>d where <strong>in</strong>ternet references are given, <strong>the</strong><br />
prefix http:// is omitted. It should be po<strong>in</strong>ted out that s<strong>in</strong>ce this book is “<strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>depth</strong><br />
<strong>study</strong>” <strong>an</strong>d not <strong>an</strong> “advertis<strong>in</strong>g brochure”, as far as possible, <strong>the</strong> names <strong>of</strong> bus<strong>in</strong>esses,<br />
restaur<strong>an</strong>ts, hotels etc. have been <strong>in</strong>tentionally omitted. S<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong> names <strong>of</strong> such<br />
places are <strong>of</strong>ten to be found on <strong>the</strong> various websites quoted, such names have been<br />
replaced by ***.<br />
Ronen’s <strong>escape</strong> was clearly hashgacha pratit (Div<strong>in</strong>e providence) – a journey with<br />
miracle after miracle. There were so m<strong>an</strong>y opportunities on this long <strong>escape</strong> journey<br />
for Ronen to have been <strong>in</strong>tercepted by <strong>the</strong> authorities <strong>an</strong>d returned to <strong>the</strong> jail <strong>in</strong><br />
Mumbai. But despite this, he succeeded <strong>in</strong> return<strong>in</strong>g to Israel.<br />
Ronen’s <strong>escape</strong> <strong>from</strong> India beg<strong>an</strong> on Tuesday, 27 September 2005, at <strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital <strong>in</strong><br />
Mumbai …<br />
**************************************<br />
[Because <strong>of</strong> his malaria, Ronen was taken to <strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital.] When we arrived at <strong>the</strong> hospital<br />
we went to <strong>the</strong> reception desk at <strong>the</strong> entr<strong>an</strong>ce. (p.319)<br />
There are a large number <strong>of</strong> hospitals, both governmental <strong>an</strong>d private 1 , <strong>in</strong> Mumbai.<br />
Amongst <strong>the</strong>m is <strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital, which is situated <strong>in</strong> a large campus near <strong>the</strong><br />
Ramch<strong>an</strong>dra Bhatt Marg (Babula T<strong>an</strong>k Road) <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Sir Jamshedjee Jejeebhoy Road<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Byculla area <strong>of</strong> South Mumbai. 2<br />
It was <strong>in</strong> 1834, that Sir Robert Gr<strong>an</strong>t, <strong>the</strong> Governor <strong>of</strong> Bombay (Mumbai), see<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />
lack <strong>of</strong> medical care <strong>in</strong> his city, proposed <strong>the</strong> establishment <strong>of</strong> a medical school <strong>an</strong>d a<br />
teach<strong>in</strong>g hospital. A few years later, <strong>the</strong> First Indi<strong>an</strong> Knight & Baronet, Sir Jamshedjee<br />
1 Mumbai onl<strong>in</strong>e: Hospitals (www.mumbaionl<strong>in</strong>e.<strong>in</strong>/EmergencyServices/Hospitals/ - accessed 21<br />
December 2009); 95 Private Hospitals <strong>in</strong> Mumbai (www.karmayog.com/lists/mumpvthospitals.htm -<br />
accessed 21 December 2009).<br />
2 Mumbai City Map, (Eicher Goodearth: New Delhi, 2009) [henceforth: Mumbai Map], p.17.
7<br />
Jejeebhoy, <strong>of</strong>fered <strong>an</strong> enormous donation for this purpose. Simult<strong>an</strong>eously, with <strong>the</strong><br />
foundation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Gr<strong>an</strong>t Medical College (named after Robert Gr<strong>an</strong>t), a hospital (known<br />
as <strong>the</strong> Sir JJ Hospital after <strong>the</strong> donor), was <strong>the</strong>n built <strong>an</strong>d it was opened <strong>in</strong> May 1845. In<br />
1958, <strong>the</strong> whole JJ Hospital build<strong>in</strong>g was torn down <strong>an</strong>d replaced by a seven story<br />
build<strong>in</strong>g. Today <strong>the</strong>re are numerous build<strong>in</strong>gs on this campus which extend over 44<br />
acres <strong>of</strong> ground. S<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong> various build<strong>in</strong>gs were added over a long period <strong>of</strong> time,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y are <strong>of</strong> various styles <strong>of</strong> architecture. In addition to <strong>the</strong> Ma<strong>in</strong> Build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> JJ<br />
Hospital, <strong>the</strong>se build<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong>clude <strong>the</strong> Gr<strong>an</strong>t Medical College, <strong>the</strong> Central Medical<br />
Library, a Pharmacology Department, a Pathology Department, <strong>an</strong> Anatomy Hall, <strong>an</strong>d a<br />
number <strong>of</strong> residential facilities for doctors, nurses, hospital workers <strong>an</strong>d medical<br />
students. 3<br />
The hospital has 30,000 admissions each year <strong>an</strong>d treats over half a million outpatients,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d be<strong>in</strong>g a Government hospital, all this is free <strong>of</strong> charge to <strong>the</strong> patients. There are 45<br />
wards with a total <strong>of</strong> 1,352 beds. An average <strong>of</strong> 57 operations are performed <strong>the</strong>re each<br />
day. 4<br />
They gave me a small cup to br<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>m a ur<strong>in</strong>e sample. (p.319)<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> non-<strong>in</strong>vasive medical tests performed on a patient is to <strong>an</strong>alyse a sample <strong>of</strong><br />
his ur<strong>in</strong>e. This is known as ur<strong>in</strong>alysis. These tests <strong>in</strong>clude: colour <strong>an</strong>d appear<strong>an</strong>ce,<br />
measur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> specific gravity to determ<strong>in</strong>e whe<strong>the</strong>r a person is dehydrated, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>an</strong><br />
<strong>an</strong>alysis <strong>of</strong> whe<strong>the</strong>r certa<strong>in</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r subst<strong>an</strong>ces such as ketone bodies, bilirub<strong>in</strong>, glucose<br />
<strong>an</strong>d hemoglob<strong>in</strong> are present <strong>an</strong>d/or at what concentrations. 5<br />
Ur<strong>in</strong>e tests (<strong>in</strong> addition to o<strong>the</strong>r tests, such as saliva <strong>an</strong>d blood tests) are also performed<br />
if a person has, or is suspected <strong>of</strong> hav<strong>in</strong>g malaria. 6 Malaria is a mosquito-borne<br />
<strong>in</strong>fectious disease tr<strong>an</strong>smitted <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> bite <strong>of</strong> a mosquito <strong>in</strong>fected with <strong>the</strong> parasite. It<br />
c<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong>n take a week or even months for <strong>the</strong> symptoms <strong>of</strong> malaria, such as fever,<br />
shiver<strong>in</strong>g, vomit<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>an</strong>aemia, ret<strong>in</strong>al damage <strong>an</strong>d convulsions to appear. Malaria is<br />
widespread <strong>in</strong> tropical <strong>an</strong>d subtropical regions, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Americas, Asia,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d Africa. Each year, <strong>the</strong>re are approximately 250 million cases <strong>of</strong> malaria <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
world, <strong>of</strong> which about one million are fatal. 7<br />
3 Gr<strong>an</strong>t Medical College & Sir J.J. Group <strong>of</strong> Hospitals (www.gr<strong>an</strong>tmedicalcollegejjhospital.org/history.htm);<br />
Wikipedia: Gr<strong>an</strong>t Medical College <strong>an</strong>d Sir James Jamshedjee Jeejeebhoy<br />
Group <strong>of</strong> Hospitals. (accessed 18 May 2010); Gr<strong>an</strong>t Medical College: A Fragile Heritage<br />
(www.gr<strong>an</strong>tmedicalfriends.com/Images/pdf/CONSERVATION_ARCHITECT_REPORT_AND_ESTIMATES.pdf - accessed<br />
25 December 2011).<br />
4 Gr<strong>an</strong>t Medical College & Sir J.J. Group <strong>of</strong> Hospitals (www.gr<strong>an</strong>tmedicalcollege-<br />
jjhospital.org/present.htm)<br />
5 Wikipedia: Ur<strong>in</strong>alysis - accessed 25 December 2011.<br />
6 “Qu<strong>an</strong>titative detection <strong>of</strong> Plasmodium falciparum DNA <strong>in</strong> saliva, blood <strong>an</strong>d ur<strong>in</strong>e”, Journal <strong>of</strong><br />
Infectious Diseases, 2009 Jun 1, 199 (11):1567.<br />
7 Wikipedia: Malaria – accessed 25 December 2011.
8<br />
Tests <strong>an</strong>d experiments which have been performed with<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> last 20 years show a<br />
correlation between <strong>the</strong> contents <strong>of</strong> a person‟s ur<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> presence <strong>of</strong> malaria. For<br />
example, experiments performed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> year 1991, on ur<strong>in</strong>e samples <strong>of</strong> patients with a<br />
certa<strong>in</strong> species <strong>of</strong> malaria showed that 85 per cent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m had elevated levels <strong>of</strong><br />
prote<strong>in</strong>s <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir ur<strong>in</strong>e. 8 Experiments performed <strong>in</strong> Sud<strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> year 2000 on 600<br />
patients whose cl<strong>in</strong>ical picture was suggestive <strong>of</strong> malaria, suggested that malaria might<br />
have a signific<strong>an</strong>t effect on <strong>the</strong> ur<strong>in</strong>e, especially <strong>the</strong> presence <strong>of</strong> album<strong>in</strong>uria. 9<br />
In a paper which was received by <strong>the</strong> editorial board <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “Americ<strong>an</strong> Journal <strong>of</strong><br />
Tropical Medic<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d Hygiene” <strong>in</strong> August 2006, it stated that <strong>in</strong> India “about 2 million<br />
confirmed malaria cases <strong>an</strong>d 1,000 deaths are reported <strong>an</strong>nually.” However, it goes on<br />
to strongly dispute <strong>the</strong>se figures <strong>an</strong>d quotes <strong>the</strong> WHO [World Health Org<strong>an</strong>ization]<br />
South East Asia Regional Office, who estimate that <strong>the</strong>re are “15 million cases <strong>an</strong>d<br />
20,000 deaths” <strong>an</strong>nually. 10 More specifically, “The Times <strong>of</strong> India” gives numbers for<br />
Mumbai for <strong>the</strong> period 1 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2005 to 15 September 2005 – <strong>the</strong> period when Ronen<br />
contracted malaria <strong>in</strong> Mumbai. The figures given <strong>in</strong> this paper are 1,117 cases. 11 It was<br />
suggested that <strong>the</strong> record monsoon ra<strong>in</strong> towards <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> July that year – more th<strong>an</strong><br />
65cms <strong>in</strong> one day, <strong>the</strong> heaviest recorded <strong>in</strong> India‟s history! – had caused <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>crease <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> cases <strong>of</strong> malaria. This caused water-logg<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d hence <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>creased<br />
breed<strong>in</strong>g ground for <strong>the</strong> mosquitoes. The city workers <strong>the</strong>refore sprayed <strong>in</strong>secticide to<br />
try <strong>an</strong>d prevent <strong>the</strong> spread <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> malaria. 12<br />
However, high numbers <strong>of</strong> cases <strong>of</strong> malaria were also reported <strong>in</strong> Mumbai <strong>in</strong> 2002 13<br />
<strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> 2006. 14 The high numbers <strong>of</strong> malaria cases <strong>in</strong> Mumbai led to “Travel Medic<strong>in</strong>e”<br />
<strong>of</strong> 2008 stat<strong>in</strong>g “Malaria risk occurs year-round <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> tropical cities <strong>of</strong> Mumbai ...” 15<br />
Ronen was suffer<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> malaria <strong>an</strong>d thus one c<strong>an</strong> see why he required a ur<strong>in</strong>e test.<br />
However, <strong>the</strong>re is no mention <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book <strong>of</strong> <strong>an</strong>y o<strong>the</strong>r tests such as blood or saliva, but<br />
it is possible that <strong>the</strong>y would have performed o<strong>the</strong>r tests had Ronen <strong>the</strong>n not <strong>escape</strong>d.<br />
The guards took me to <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hall where <strong>the</strong>re were three bathroom stalls. Despite<br />
<strong>the</strong> fact that India toilets are noth<strong>in</strong>g more th<strong>an</strong> holes <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> ground, two out <strong>of</strong> three were<br />
broken. (p.319)<br />
8<br />
“Detection <strong>of</strong> <strong>an</strong>tigens <strong>an</strong>d <strong>an</strong>tibodies <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> ur<strong>in</strong>e <strong>of</strong> hum<strong>an</strong>s with Plasmodium falciparum malaria”.<br />
Journal <strong>of</strong> Cl<strong>in</strong>ical Microbiology 1991 Jun; 29(6):1236-42.<br />
9<br />
Letter to Editor, Saudi Journal <strong>of</strong> Kidney Diseases <strong>an</strong>d Tr<strong>an</strong>spl<strong>an</strong>tation, 2000, 11(2) pp. 208-09.<br />
10<br />
“Burden <strong>of</strong> Malaria <strong>in</strong> India: Retrospective <strong>an</strong>d Prospective View”, Americ<strong>an</strong> Journal <strong>of</strong> Tropical<br />
Medic<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d Hygiene, 77 (6 suppl.) 2007 p.69.<br />
11<br />
“Dengue D<strong>an</strong>ger”, The Times <strong>of</strong> India, 3 October 2006.<br />
12<br />
“Millions suffer <strong>in</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> monsoon”, BBC News, 1 August 2005; “Indi<strong>an</strong> monsoon death toll soars”,<br />
BBC News , 28 July 2005.<br />
13<br />
“Malaria outbreak <strong>in</strong> Mumbai” SiliconIndia, 14 October 2002.<br />
14<br />
Dengue D<strong>an</strong>ger, op. cit.<br />
15<br />
Travel Medic<strong>in</strong>e, India, 2008, (www.travmed.com/guide/country.php?c=India – accessed 1 August<br />
2010).
9<br />
Almost all toilets found <strong>in</strong> Western countries are <strong>the</strong> sitt<strong>in</strong>g toilet. However, <strong>the</strong><br />
majority <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world uses “squat toilets”, which essentially consists <strong>of</strong> a hole <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
ground. As <strong>the</strong> name suggests, <strong>the</strong>se toilets are used by squatt<strong>in</strong>g ra<strong>the</strong>r th<strong>an</strong> by sitt<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
Except for <strong>the</strong> most primitive <strong>of</strong> places, <strong>the</strong>re is a system to flush water <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong>se squat<br />
toilets.<br />
These toilets are ma<strong>in</strong>ly to be found <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Middle East <strong>an</strong>d countries such as India,<br />
Ch<strong>in</strong>a <strong>an</strong>d Jap<strong>an</strong>. Depend<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong> country, <strong>the</strong>y are <strong>of</strong> slightly different design, but<br />
<strong>the</strong> common denom<strong>in</strong>ator is that <strong>the</strong>y are all essentially consist<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> a hole <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
ground. 16 Accord<strong>in</strong>g to a BBC News report <strong>of</strong> July 2010, a few <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se squat toilets<br />
were <strong>in</strong>stalled <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> a Greater M<strong>an</strong>chester shopp<strong>in</strong>g centre after its bosses went<br />
on a cultural awareness course. 17<br />
Numerous arguments have been put <strong>in</strong> favour <strong>of</strong> us<strong>in</strong>g this type <strong>of</strong> toilet ra<strong>the</strong>r th<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
sitt<strong>in</strong>g type. These <strong>in</strong>clude: <strong>the</strong>y are less expensive; <strong>the</strong>y are easier to cle<strong>an</strong>; <strong>the</strong>y<br />
elim<strong>in</strong>ate physical contact between <strong>the</strong> body <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> toilet; <strong>the</strong> body posture when<br />
us<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>m protects <strong>the</strong> nerves that control <strong>the</strong> prostate, bladder <strong>an</strong>d uterus <strong>from</strong><br />
becom<strong>in</strong>g stretched <strong>an</strong>d damaged <strong>an</strong>d relaxes <strong>the</strong> puborectalis muscle. 18<br />
There are also arguments aga<strong>in</strong>st this type <strong>of</strong> toilet. These <strong>in</strong>clude: <strong>the</strong>ir use requires<br />
certa<strong>in</strong> bal<strong>an</strong>c<strong>in</strong>g skills; <strong>the</strong>y c<strong>an</strong> be difficult to use by <strong>the</strong> elderly, those with jo<strong>in</strong>t<br />
problems or limited mobility <strong>an</strong>d those recover<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> leg <strong>in</strong>juries. 19<br />
[Whilst <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> toilet, Ronen] noticed a small w<strong>in</strong>dow around twelve <strong>in</strong>ches [30<br />
centimeters] wide. It had glass shutters <strong>an</strong>d a wire screen. ... I took <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>ner shutters <strong>an</strong>d<br />
tried lift<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>m out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> track. They broke <strong>in</strong> two <strong>in</strong> my h<strong>an</strong>ds … I decided to check out<br />
<strong>the</strong> strength <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> screen. I pushed it lightly with my h<strong>an</strong>d <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> bottom support flew out<br />
wildly … The next section <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> shutters … also [easily] broke <strong>in</strong>to two. … There was only<br />
one layer <strong>of</strong> glass left. I took <strong>the</strong> screen <strong>an</strong>d gave it a little knock. The right support flew<br />
outside. (pp.320-21)<br />
In a properly looked after build<strong>in</strong>g, especially a public build<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>the</strong> shutters <strong>an</strong>d screen<br />
should not break with just <strong>the</strong> slightest <strong>of</strong> pressure! But <strong>the</strong>se were not <strong>the</strong> only<br />
deficiencies with this immediate area <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g. Two out <strong>of</strong> three <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> toilets<br />
were broken. The build<strong>in</strong>g was not ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>ed as it should have been. This was not <strong>the</strong><br />
only part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital that was <strong>in</strong> a state <strong>of</strong> disrepair. Adjacent to <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong><br />
build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital is <strong>the</strong> “Gr<strong>an</strong>t Medical College.”<br />
16<br />
Wikipedia: Squat toilet – accessed 19 May 2011.<br />
17<br />
“Squat toilets <strong>in</strong> Rochdale shopp<strong>in</strong>g centre”, BBC News M<strong>an</strong>chester, 15 July 2010.<br />
18<br />
Wikipedia: Squat toilet, op. cit.<br />
19<br />
Squat Toilet: (www.docstoc.com/docs/6244425/Squat_toilet - accessed14 December 2011).
10<br />
In his book “Bombay Gothic”, which was published <strong>in</strong> 2002, Christopher W. London<br />
wrote, “<strong>the</strong> Gr<strong>an</strong>t Medical College is <strong>in</strong> a state <strong>of</strong> serious disrepair.” 20 The trustees <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital realized <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Gr<strong>an</strong>t Medical College build<strong>in</strong>g, that <strong>the</strong>y<br />
brought <strong>in</strong> a team <strong>of</strong> “Conservation Architects <strong>an</strong>d Historic Build<strong>in</strong>g Consult<strong>an</strong>ts” to<br />
survey it <strong>an</strong>d submit <strong>the</strong>ir prelim<strong>in</strong>ary recommendations for repairs <strong>an</strong>d renovations.<br />
Their report is undated, but s<strong>in</strong>ce it quotes <strong>from</strong> Christopher London‟s book, it is<br />
obviously dated later th<strong>an</strong> 2002. There <strong>the</strong>y give a long list <strong>of</strong> repairs <strong>an</strong>d renovations<br />
that were <strong>in</strong> need. These <strong>in</strong>clude structural repairs, elim<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>of</strong> water seepage <strong>an</strong>d<br />
repairs to w<strong>in</strong>dows. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se defects <strong>the</strong>y attributed to atmospheric conditions. 21<br />
It is true that this build<strong>in</strong>g was constructed <strong>in</strong> 1845, whereas <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> JJ<br />
Hospital only <strong>in</strong> 1958 <strong>an</strong>d thus one would thus expect a greater deterioration if <strong>the</strong><br />
older build<strong>in</strong>g had not been looked after. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se deteriorations <strong>in</strong> both <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />
build<strong>in</strong>g would be rust<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
“Rust” is a general term used for a series <strong>of</strong> iron oxides. However <strong>the</strong> term is generally<br />
used for <strong>the</strong> red oxides which are formed by <strong>the</strong> reaction <strong>of</strong> iron <strong>an</strong>d oxygen <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
presence <strong>of</strong> water or air moisture. Given sufficient time, <strong>the</strong> oxygen <strong>an</strong>d water will<br />
convert <strong>an</strong>y iron entirely <strong>in</strong>to rust caus<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> iron to dis<strong>in</strong>tegrate. 22<br />
Thus after nearly 50 years (until 2005, <strong>the</strong> year <strong>of</strong> Ronen‟s <strong>escape</strong>), monsoon ra<strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r wea<strong>the</strong>r conditions would have certa<strong>in</strong>ly caused <strong>the</strong> metal bars on <strong>the</strong> outside<br />
w<strong>in</strong>dows <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital to become thoroughly rusted over <strong>an</strong>d shutters to become<br />
very brittle. Thus <strong>the</strong> little pressure exerted by Ronen, was sufficient to cause <strong>the</strong>m to<br />
break. The rust<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se w<strong>in</strong>dow bars was also referred to <strong>in</strong> a newspaper article<br />
quoted later.<br />
[Although Ronen had not prepared himself to <strong>escape</strong> that day, s<strong>in</strong>ce he had already broken<br />
<strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dows <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> shutters, a fact which he could not disguise, he decided to <strong>the</strong>n<br />
<strong>escape</strong>.] There was one th<strong>in</strong>g prevent<strong>in</strong>g me, <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dow was at <strong>the</strong> height <strong>of</strong> my head <strong>an</strong>d<br />
<strong>the</strong>re was no toilet to climb onto to hoist myself through <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dow. Suddenly I noticed<br />
that protrud<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> wall two metal pipes coated with cement. (pp.321-22)<br />
As already stated, <strong>the</strong> toilets <strong>the</strong>re were <strong>the</strong> squat type <strong>an</strong>d not <strong>the</strong> seat type <strong>an</strong>d hence<br />
Ronen had no seat to st<strong>an</strong>d on.<br />
What were <strong>the</strong>se two metal pipes do<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> this toilet? Maybe <strong>the</strong>se pipes were for <strong>the</strong><br />
water for a s<strong>in</strong>k <strong>in</strong> this toilet cubicle, (or maybe one was for a s<strong>in</strong>k <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r to<br />
flush <strong>the</strong> toilet) <strong>an</strong>d over <strong>the</strong> years <strong>the</strong>se pipes had broken <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> repair<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>the</strong>m, <strong>the</strong>y had been cemented over <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> s<strong>in</strong>k removed. We have already seen <strong>the</strong><br />
20 Christopher W. London, Bombay Gothic, (India Book House: Mumbai, 2002), p.15.<br />
21 Gr<strong>an</strong>t Medical College: A Fragile Heritage, op. cit.<br />
22 Wikipedia: Rust – accessed 3 July 2011.
11<br />
neglect <strong>of</strong> at least this part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g. Two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> three squat toilets were broken,<br />
<strong>the</strong> bars <strong>an</strong>d shutters on <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dow were <strong>in</strong> a very derelict state <strong>an</strong>d this very likely<br />
expla<strong>in</strong>s why <strong>the</strong>re were <strong>the</strong> remn<strong>an</strong>ts <strong>of</strong> two pipes <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> wall <strong>of</strong> this cubicle.<br />
I climbed up <strong>the</strong> pipes [<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> toilet cubicle] … I pulled myself up slowly until my legs were<br />
already out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dow. (p.322)<br />
The next day, Wednesday, 28 September, Ronen‟s <strong>escape</strong> was reported <strong>in</strong> several<br />
Indi<strong>an</strong> newspapers. “The Times <strong>of</strong> India” wrote “around 12.30 pm, Ronak (sic) told <strong>the</strong><br />
policem<strong>an</strong> he needed to use <strong>the</strong> toilet. The duo escorted him <strong>an</strong>d waited outside <strong>the</strong><br />
toilet <strong>an</strong>d asked him not to bolt <strong>the</strong> door. Investigat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>spector Laxm<strong>an</strong> Vakhare said<br />
Ronak, however, m<strong>an</strong>aged to bolt <strong>the</strong> door <strong>from</strong> <strong>in</strong>side. The policem<strong>an</strong> waited outside<br />
for a few m<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>n beg<strong>an</strong> knock<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong> door. When <strong>the</strong>y realised that Ronak<br />
was try<strong>in</strong>g to break out through a w<strong>in</strong>dow, <strong>the</strong>y raised <strong>an</strong> alarm. However, <strong>the</strong> wellbuilt<br />
Israeli had by <strong>the</strong>n broken <strong>the</strong> rusted iron rods on <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dow <strong>an</strong>d fled. The<br />
policem<strong>an</strong> reported <strong>the</strong> matter to <strong>the</strong> JJ police station.” (One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>gs on this<br />
campus is <strong>the</strong> JJ Police Station which is situated about 150 metres to <strong>the</strong> west <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> JJ<br />
Hospital. 23 ) This paper also commented that “this is <strong>the</strong> third such <strong>in</strong>cident <strong>in</strong> one<br />
month” <strong>an</strong>d also that <strong>the</strong> police commissioner had given “<strong>in</strong>structions to his men to<br />
take extra care while escort<strong>in</strong>g foreign nationals under trial.” 24<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r Indi<strong>an</strong> newspaper report<strong>in</strong>g, also on 28 September, this <strong>in</strong>cident was “DNA”<br />
(Daily News <strong>an</strong>d Analysis). They described this <strong>in</strong>cident <strong>in</strong> a similar m<strong>an</strong>ner, “[Ronen]<br />
was brought to <strong>the</strong> hospital along with o<strong>the</strong>r deta<strong>in</strong>ees under police escort for regular<br />
medical check-up. After <strong>the</strong> check-up he requested two Local Armoury police<br />
personnel to allow him to use <strong>the</strong> washroom. In <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>terven<strong>in</strong>g period, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
constables went to <strong>the</strong> Pathology department, while <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r escorted him to <strong>the</strong> toilet.<br />
When he did not come out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> toilet after a few m<strong>in</strong>utes, <strong>the</strong> constable suspected foul<br />
play. Even after b<strong>an</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> door, <strong>the</strong> accused did not relent. The constable climbed <strong>the</strong><br />
door to peep <strong>in</strong>side <strong>an</strong>d was shocked to f<strong>in</strong>d <strong>the</strong> accused bend<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> iron grills <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
toilet w<strong>in</strong>dow <strong>an</strong>d sneak<strong>in</strong>g out.” 25<br />
There are two signific<strong>an</strong>t differences between Ronen‟s account <strong>an</strong>d both newspapers‟<br />
account <strong>of</strong> his <strong>escape</strong> <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> toilet. Firstly, he had to give a sample <strong>of</strong> ur<strong>in</strong>e, <strong>an</strong>d this<br />
is always done <strong>in</strong> a modest m<strong>an</strong>ner <strong>in</strong> a toilet <strong>an</strong>d this was obviously <strong>the</strong> reason he was<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> toilet, <strong>an</strong>d not that he had asked to use it. Secondly, it would seem accord<strong>in</strong>g to<br />
Ronen‟s account, that he had already <strong>escape</strong>d <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> toilet before <strong>the</strong> police<br />
discovered he was no longer <strong>the</strong>re – he does not mention <strong>an</strong>y b<strong>an</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong> door <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> toilet; <strong>in</strong> contrast, accord<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> newspaper reports he was still break<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />
w<strong>in</strong>dow bars when <strong>the</strong> police caught on to what he was do<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
23 Mumbai Map, p.17.<br />
24 “Israeli arrested <strong>in</strong> drug case flees”, The Times <strong>of</strong> India, 28 September 2005.<br />
25 “Israeli drug peddler flees JJ Hospital”, DNA (Daily News <strong>an</strong>d Analysis), 28 September 2005.
12<br />
I [r<strong>an</strong>]… to <strong>the</strong> [boundary] wall [<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hospital], but I realised it was too high to climb. ...<br />
I looked to my right … <strong>an</strong>d saw two armed guards … guard<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> entry <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
hospital.… I turned to my left <strong>an</strong>d I saw … a mound <strong>of</strong> s<strong>an</strong>d piled next to <strong>the</strong> wall. I r<strong>an</strong> up<br />
<strong>the</strong> hill <strong>an</strong>d jumped with all my strength <strong>an</strong>d l<strong>an</strong>ded on top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wall. (p.322)<br />
In <strong>the</strong> long list <strong>of</strong> repairs given <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> above mentioned Report, which needed to be<br />
done on <strong>the</strong> Gr<strong>an</strong>t Medical College build<strong>in</strong>g is <strong>an</strong> item which concerns <strong>the</strong> entire JJ<br />
Hospital campus: “Boundary Wall, fenc<strong>in</strong>g, gate restoration” at a cost <strong>of</strong> one million<br />
Indi<strong>an</strong> rupees. 26 For security reasons, <strong>in</strong> order that terrorists should not enter <strong>the</strong><br />
campus, <strong>an</strong>d that prisoners who had be brought to <strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital for medical reasons<br />
should not use <strong>the</strong> opportunity to <strong>escape</strong>, one needs to have a boundary wall <strong>an</strong>d also<br />
armed guards at <strong>the</strong> gates.<br />
It is thus most import<strong>an</strong>t that <strong>the</strong> boundary wall be <strong>in</strong> top condition <strong>an</strong>d repairs to it<br />
should be given top priority. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> components required to repair a wall is s<strong>an</strong>d,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d it is likely that this was <strong>the</strong> reason that <strong>the</strong>re was a “mound <strong>of</strong> s<strong>an</strong>d piled next to <strong>the</strong><br />
wall.” This conveniently placed mound <strong>of</strong> s<strong>an</strong>d enabled Ronen to climb over <strong>the</strong> high<br />
wall.<br />
There are 14 gates <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> boundary wall around <strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital campus, 27 each gate<br />
hav<strong>in</strong>g a number. For example, Gate 3 is on Ramch<strong>an</strong>dra Bhatt Marg opposite a motor<br />
cycle dealer 28 ; Gate 12 is on JJ Road opposite a hotel. 29 Due to <strong>the</strong> deteriorat<strong>in</strong>g<br />
security situation, it was reported <strong>in</strong> 2010, that 8 <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 14 gates had been closed. 30<br />
I jumped down to <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side [<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boundary wall]. … I saw that I had l<strong>an</strong>ded <strong>in</strong> a<br />
busy street. (p.322)<br />
The front entr<strong>an</strong>ce to <strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital is on a road called Ramch<strong>an</strong>dra Bhatt Marg.<br />
Orig<strong>in</strong>ally this road was called Babula T<strong>an</strong>k Road. 31 In fact m<strong>an</strong>y roads <strong>in</strong> Mumbai<br />
have had <strong>the</strong>ir names ch<strong>an</strong>ged. This was as a result <strong>of</strong> nationalist sentiment which<br />
prompted <strong>the</strong> removal <strong>of</strong> old Europe<strong>an</strong> names <strong>in</strong> favour <strong>of</strong> ones that honour Indi<strong>an</strong><br />
heritage. 32 The orig<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> orig<strong>in</strong>al street name “Babula T<strong>an</strong>k Road” is that it is<br />
26<br />
Gr<strong>an</strong>t Medical College: A Fragile Heritage, op. cit.<br />
27<br />
Wikipedia: Gr<strong>an</strong>t Medical College…, op. cit.<br />
28<br />
m.sulekha.com/mumbai/***ch<strong>in</strong>ch-bunder_contact-address/379924.htm – accessed 25 December<br />
2011.<br />
29<br />
70.86.139.42/mumbai/list<strong>in</strong>g/travel-<strong>an</strong>d-tr<strong>an</strong>sportation/accommodation/hotel***-<br />
4c93639b84c57.html - accessed 25 December 2011.<br />
30<br />
“CCTVs to keep <strong>an</strong> eye on J.J. Hospital”, DNA (Daily News <strong>an</strong>d Analysis), 3 March 2010.<br />
31<br />
Mumbai Map, p.17. [Henceforth, if <strong>the</strong> orig<strong>in</strong>al names <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> roads are known, <strong>the</strong>y will be added <strong>in</strong><br />
brackets after <strong>the</strong> current name.]<br />
32<br />
“Censorship battle rages <strong>in</strong> India over Mistry novel”, The Globe <strong>an</strong>d Mail (Toronto, C<strong>an</strong>ada) 15<br />
October 2010.
13<br />
called after <strong>the</strong> babul or acacia Arabica – a thorny mimosa tree found <strong>in</strong> most parts <strong>of</strong><br />
India. 33 Ano<strong>the</strong>r reason for this name, possibly more plausible, is given below.<br />
On both sides <strong>of</strong> Ramch<strong>an</strong>dra Bhatt Marg are build<strong>in</strong>gs. These house m<strong>an</strong>y diverse<br />
activities. There are shops which <strong>in</strong>clude those sell<strong>in</strong>g cloth<strong>in</strong>g for men <strong>an</strong>d women,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>re is also one which sells ladies, gents <strong>an</strong>d children‟s footwear. Also amongst<br />
<strong>the</strong>se shops is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> biggest bookstores <strong>in</strong> Mumbai provid<strong>in</strong>g medical books, <strong>an</strong>d<br />
whilst on <strong>the</strong> medical subject, <strong>the</strong>re is also a medical store. One who desires dried fruit<br />
will f<strong>in</strong>d a shop sell<strong>in</strong>g it <strong>the</strong>re. In addition to <strong>the</strong> shops, <strong>the</strong>re are several m<strong>an</strong>ufacturers<br />
whose factories are located on this street. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m m<strong>an</strong>ufactures all sorts <strong>of</strong> nozzles<br />
for mak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d decorat<strong>in</strong>g cakes, <strong>an</strong>d also ic<strong>in</strong>g sets, dessert moulds <strong>an</strong>d m<strong>an</strong>y o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
similar accessories. There are o<strong>the</strong>r m<strong>an</strong>ufacturers who produce pr<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g materials such<br />
as brochures, catalogues, diaries <strong>an</strong>d calendars, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>re is also a m<strong>an</strong>ufacturer for<br />
carbon seals. If one w<strong>an</strong>ts to org<strong>an</strong>ise a party or a wedd<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>the</strong>re is a wedd<strong>in</strong>g hall on<br />
this road for this purpose. F<strong>in</strong>ally, Municipal Office build<strong>in</strong>gs are to be found <strong>the</strong>re. 34<br />
From all <strong>the</strong> above, we c<strong>an</strong> see that <strong>the</strong>re would <strong>the</strong>refore be numerous workers,<br />
customers <strong>an</strong>d public <strong>of</strong>ficials go<strong>in</strong>g along this road dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> daytime. Thus we c<strong>an</strong><br />
easily underst<strong>an</strong>d Ronen describ<strong>in</strong>g it as “a busy street”.<br />
We might also mention <strong>in</strong> pass<strong>in</strong>g, that Ramch<strong>an</strong>dra Bhatt Marg has been <strong>the</strong> scene <strong>of</strong><br />
some skirmishes between <strong>the</strong> Shias <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Wahhabis (Sunnis), but such skirmishes<br />
have been limited to just <strong>the</strong> throw<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> soda water bottles. 35 Shia <strong>an</strong>d Sunni are <strong>the</strong><br />
two major denom<strong>in</strong>ations <strong>of</strong> Islam, <strong>an</strong>d over <strong>the</strong> years Shia-Sunni relations have been<br />
marked by both cooperation <strong>an</strong>d conflict, with conflict predom<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g. 36<br />
I gl<strong>an</strong>ced quickly across <strong>the</strong> street <strong>an</strong>d noticed a small alleyway. I r<strong>an</strong> towards it <strong>an</strong>d went<br />
down its narrow conf<strong>in</strong>es. (p.323)<br />
On <strong>the</strong> opposite side <strong>of</strong> Ramch<strong>an</strong>dra Bhatt Marg opposite <strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital about 60<br />
meters east <strong>of</strong> Laxm<strong>an</strong> Naray<strong>an</strong> Jadhav Marg <strong>an</strong>d parallel to it, <strong>the</strong>re is a very narrow<br />
road. 37 This very narrow road is <strong>of</strong> length about 250 meters. 38 About half way along<br />
this very narrow road is situated a municipal secondary school. At <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> this road<br />
is Imamwada Road <strong>an</strong>d situated at <strong>the</strong> junction, is a municipal primary school. 39 It is<br />
33<br />
Samuel T. Sheppard, Bombay Place-Names <strong>an</strong>d Street-Names: Excursion <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> By-ways <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
History <strong>of</strong> Bombay City, (Bombay: The Times Press, 1917), 23 - Bombay Place Names.<br />
34<br />
via google – Rachm<strong>an</strong>dra Bhatt Marg <strong>an</strong>d /or Babula T<strong>an</strong>k Road.<br />
35<br />
The Sunnis <strong>an</strong>d Shia Moharam, (www.flickr.com/photos/firozeshakir/557183524/ - accessed 4 August<br />
2010).<br />
36<br />
Wikipedia: Shi’a-Sunni relations – accessed 25 December 2011.<br />
37<br />
Mumbai Map, p.17.<br />
38<br />
Ibid.<br />
39<br />
Ibid; List <strong>of</strong> Schools I.J.K.L. (as at 10.11.02), Municipal Schools I.J.K.L., (www.karmayog.com/lists/sch-<br />
ijkl.htm - accessed 25 December 2011).
14<br />
also opposite <strong>the</strong> Mughal Masjig 40 which is <strong>an</strong> Ir<strong>an</strong>i<strong>an</strong> Mosque. It is at this Mosque that<br />
<strong>the</strong> Shiite Moslems have a ceremony dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> first ten days <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first month, called<br />
Muharram, <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Islamic calendar. This ceremony <strong>in</strong>cludes self mutilation. 41 This is<br />
likely <strong>the</strong> “small alleyway” which Ronen saw.<br />
About half way along this very narrow road is a small garden called Babula T<strong>an</strong>k<br />
Garden 42 . In past generations, water t<strong>an</strong>ks were <strong>the</strong> only source <strong>of</strong> water <strong>in</strong> Mumbai. Of<br />
<strong>the</strong> ten t<strong>an</strong>ks <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> city, one was named Babula T<strong>an</strong>k, <strong>an</strong>d was named after a<br />
phil<strong>an</strong>thropic citizen who donated <strong>the</strong> money for this t<strong>an</strong>k. 43 It could be that this garden<br />
is <strong>the</strong> location <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Babula T<strong>an</strong>k (or at <strong>the</strong> least close to it). The t<strong>an</strong>k was filled up <strong>in</strong><br />
1907. 44 This is thus <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r possibility for <strong>the</strong> orig<strong>in</strong>al name for <strong>the</strong> road now called<br />
Rachm<strong>an</strong>dra Bhatt Marg.<br />
I cont<strong>in</strong>ued runn<strong>in</strong>g for <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r fifty meters… I noticed that ten meters away was a taxi.<br />
The alleyway was so narrow that <strong>the</strong> taxi was block<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> entire street. (pp.323-24)<br />
About 50 metres <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ramch<strong>an</strong>dra Bhatt Marg end <strong>of</strong> this very narrow road is <strong>an</strong><br />
extremely narrow path go<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> west to east. 45 Quite possibly <strong>the</strong> taxi was parked on<br />
this path thus block<strong>in</strong>g it.<br />
I r<strong>an</strong> to <strong>the</strong> taxi, got <strong>in</strong> quickly <strong>an</strong>d ordered <strong>the</strong> driver … „drive‟. (p.324)<br />
The taxis <strong>in</strong> Mumbai are easily recognisable, s<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong>y have dist<strong>in</strong>ctive black <strong>an</strong>d<br />
yellow liveries with <strong>the</strong> bottom half pa<strong>in</strong>ted black <strong>an</strong>d upper half pa<strong>in</strong>ted yellow. There,<br />
<strong>the</strong> taxis c<strong>an</strong> ei<strong>the</strong>r be hailed on <strong>the</strong> street or hired <strong>from</strong> taxi-st<strong>an</strong>ds, <strong>an</strong>d thus Ronen<br />
was easily able to hail <strong>the</strong> taxi <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> street. In <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> city districts <strong>of</strong> Mumbai, autorickshaws<br />
are b<strong>an</strong>ned, thus giv<strong>in</strong>g taxi drivers a monopoly. 46<br />
By <strong>the</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> Government‟s regulations, all taxis are required to have a fare-meter.<br />
However, enforcement <strong>of</strong> this regulation is lax <strong>an</strong>d m<strong>an</strong>y taxis operate ei<strong>the</strong>r without a<br />
fare-meter or with a defunct one. In such a case, <strong>the</strong> fare is decided by barga<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g<br />
between <strong>the</strong> customer <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> taxi-driver. 47 However, on this method, a knowledgeable<br />
user <strong>of</strong> taxis advises <strong>the</strong> public “Chuck him [<strong>the</strong> driver]. There‟s no dearth <strong>of</strong> taxi<br />
40 Mumbai Map, p.17; Google Maps.<br />
41 Muharram <strong>in</strong> Mumbai, (mumbai.metblogs.com/2006/02/11/muharram-<strong>in</strong>-mumbai/ - accessed 20<br />
May 2011).<br />
42<br />
Mumbai Map, p.17; Google Maps.<br />
43<br />
Wikipedia: T<strong>an</strong>ks <strong>of</strong> Bombay – accessed 20 May 2011.<br />
44<br />
Samuel T. Sheppard, op. cit.<br />
45<br />
Mumbai Map, p.17.<br />
46<br />
Wikipedia (as at 17 September 2010): Taxis <strong>in</strong> India – accessed 22 May 2011.<br />
47 Ibid.
15<br />
drivers <strong>in</strong> Mumbai!” 48 In fact it has been said “There are more taxis per square <strong>in</strong>ch<br />
th<strong>an</strong> buses [<strong>in</strong> Mumbai].” 49<br />
M<strong>an</strong>y scams <strong>an</strong>d rip <strong>of</strong>fs by taxi drivers <strong>in</strong> Mumbai have been reported by users <strong>of</strong> such<br />
taxis.<br />
In April 2005, “greenchutney” wrote, “The guy [taxi driver] forgot to put <strong>the</strong> meter …<br />
when I rem<strong>in</strong>ded him he should put it … he said it‟s not work<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d it gives a low<br />
read<strong>in</strong>g ... <strong>an</strong>d said he will settle for 400 rupees for <strong>the</strong> trip to a suburb ... he actually<br />
started yell<strong>in</strong>g at me when I said for him to drop me back to <strong>the</strong> airport s<strong>in</strong>ce this is<br />
illegal <strong>an</strong>d I said I will take him to <strong>the</strong> cops ... <strong>an</strong>yway he settled down when I said I<br />
will pay what <strong>the</strong> meter comes up <strong>an</strong>d it came to 234 rupees for <strong>the</strong> trip ... which<br />
seemed about right...” 50<br />
This comment was <strong>an</strong>swered by “PeakXV” who wrote, “Has <strong>an</strong>yone ever got <strong>an</strong> honest<br />
rate with a metered ride? If it‟s not <strong>the</strong> broken meter, it‟s <strong>the</strong> meter with doctored gear<br />
that sp<strong>in</strong>s around like a watch's second h<strong>an</strong>d on steroids, or <strong>the</strong> curry-sta<strong>in</strong>ed<br />
extrapolation chart that you need a PhD <strong>in</strong> math to get your head around. No th<strong>an</strong>ks,<br />
I‟ll haggle it out before I step <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d not leave <strong>the</strong> f<strong>in</strong>al bill to a meter <strong>an</strong>d a prayer.” 51<br />
The f<strong>in</strong>al word came <strong>from</strong> “go<strong>an</strong>go<strong>an</strong>gone” who wrote, “Best one I've seen is <strong>in</strong> Dubai.<br />
There‟s a notice on <strong>the</strong> dashboard stat<strong>in</strong>g: If <strong>the</strong> meter is not work<strong>in</strong>g, your journey<br />
is free. I th<strong>in</strong>k it‟ll take a while for that to hit India.” 52<br />
A case <strong>of</strong> a rip <strong>of</strong>f by a taxi driver <strong>in</strong> Mumbai was reported <strong>in</strong> J<strong>an</strong>uary 2010 by “Ali-<br />
Monbeam”, a parent <strong>of</strong> a child <strong>from</strong> Bradford <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> north <strong>of</strong> Engl<strong>an</strong>d. The child had<br />
been charged 300 rupees for a journey which would take just five m<strong>in</strong>utes by foot.<br />
“Aadil” who lives <strong>in</strong> Mumbai <strong>an</strong>swered “Even if he took <strong>the</strong> cab he should have paid<br />
by <strong>the</strong> meter <strong>an</strong>d he would have paid just 14 rupees <strong>in</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> 300 rupees!!!” “RPD”<br />
was not so sympa<strong>the</strong>tic <strong>an</strong>d wrote, “It‟s a fair price, because <strong>the</strong> def<strong>in</strong>ition <strong>of</strong> fair price<br />
is whatever both parties freely agree on. US$7 [300 rupees] for a lesson is not bad;<br />
western Universities charge much more th<strong>an</strong> that <strong>an</strong>d teach less.” The f<strong>in</strong>al word came<br />
<strong>from</strong> “jspyder136” who was just about to go on a “massive backpack<strong>in</strong>g adventure all<br />
over India” <strong>an</strong>d he <strong>in</strong>dicated that he had learned a lesson <strong>from</strong> this <strong>in</strong>cident <strong>an</strong>d wrote<br />
48<br />
IndiaMike, fatal_error, (www.<strong>in</strong>diamike.com/<strong>in</strong>dia/mumbai-(www.<strong>in</strong>diamike.com/<strong>in</strong>dia/mumbaibombay-f22/some-questions-about-mumbai-t91432/2<br />
- accessed 5 August 2010).<br />
49<br />
IndiaMike, Taxis <strong>in</strong> Mumbai,<br />
(www.<strong>in</strong>diamike.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/546/size/big/ppuser/external.php?type=RSS2<br />
– accessed 5 August 2010)<br />
50<br />
IndiaMike, Scam Warn<strong>in</strong>g - Bombay Autos/Taxis - Non Work<strong>in</strong>g Meters. - accessed 5 August 2010).<br />
51 Ibid.<br />
52 Ibid.
16<br />
that “now that I read this, I am not lett<strong>in</strong>g ANY taxi driver <strong>in</strong> India charge me 300<br />
rupees for a taxi ride unless he pl<strong>an</strong>s on driv<strong>in</strong>g me back home to America.” 53<br />
He [<strong>the</strong> taxi driver] turned around <strong>an</strong>d looked at me <strong>an</strong>d asked “To where?”... Suddenly I<br />
remembered hear<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>re was <strong>an</strong> Israeli restaur<strong>an</strong>t that was not far <strong>from</strong> where I was. ....<br />
Then I remembered hear<strong>in</strong>g that <strong>the</strong> restaur<strong>an</strong>t was <strong>in</strong> Kolaba [Colaba]… „to Kolaba‟.<br />
(pp.324-25)<br />
There is a restaur<strong>an</strong>t near <strong>the</strong> Colaba area <strong>of</strong> Mumbai, which could loosely be called <strong>an</strong><br />
“Israeli Restaur<strong>an</strong>t”. It advertises its cuis<strong>in</strong>e as “Mediterr<strong>an</strong>e<strong>an</strong>” 54 but <strong>the</strong> “Hotelier<br />
Caterer”, India‟s Only Hospitality Bus<strong>in</strong>ess Weekly, describes its fare as “hovers on<br />
Mediterr<strong>an</strong>e<strong>an</strong> fare with a bent on Turkish, Morocc<strong>an</strong>, Israeli <strong>an</strong>d Itali<strong>an</strong> paired<br />
exclusively with w<strong>in</strong>es” (emphasis added). 55 A video prepared for this restaur<strong>an</strong>t<br />
mentions Israeli dishes several times. 56 Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> patrons <strong>in</strong> a review<br />
written <strong>in</strong> December 2005, writes that <strong>the</strong> “Oaf Memulay was <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g”. 57 “Oaf<br />
Memulay” is <strong>the</strong> Hebrew for stuffed chicken, <strong>an</strong>d it would seem that <strong>the</strong>se Hebrew<br />
words appeared on <strong>the</strong> menu card.<br />
This restaur<strong>an</strong>t is run by a Jew born <strong>in</strong> Mumbai who moved to Israel where he worked<br />
<strong>in</strong> a kibbutz restaur<strong>an</strong>t for 6 months. Dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> his career, he worked <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
kitchens <strong>of</strong> non-Jewish hotels <strong>in</strong> Mumbai <strong>an</strong>d London, <strong>an</strong>d also <strong>in</strong> a Tel-Aviv hotel. 58<br />
In 2003 he opened his own restaur<strong>an</strong>t <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Colaba area <strong>of</strong> Mumbai <strong>an</strong>d s<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong>n has<br />
also opened several cafes <strong>in</strong> Mumbai. 59<br />
From <strong>the</strong> reviews alone <strong>of</strong> people who have eaten at this restaur<strong>an</strong>t, it c<strong>an</strong> be seen that<br />
<strong>the</strong> food does not conform to Jewish dietary laws - it is not a kosher restaur<strong>an</strong>t. The<br />
writer <strong>of</strong> one review written <strong>in</strong> December 2005 wrote, “The Harissa Prawns were<br />
excellent all round... The bread was grilled to <strong>the</strong> right level. Not too hard, but just<br />
firm to hold <strong>the</strong> prawns.” 60 Prawns are seafood which is not kosher. 61<br />
53<br />
IndiaMike, Taxi rip <strong>of</strong>f at Mumbai, - accessed 5 August 2010).<br />
54<br />
India’s Lead<strong>in</strong>g Bus<strong>in</strong>ess Directory Service, (www.askme.com/mumbai/cuffe-parade-restaur<strong>an</strong>tsbars-***-restaur<strong>an</strong>t/list<strong>in</strong>g-pr<strong>in</strong>t/14771085331<br />
- accessed 22 May 2011).<br />
55<br />
Hotelier Caterer, (www.expresshospitality.com/20040112/foodbeverage01.shtml - accessed 5<br />
August 2010).<br />
56<br />
Short video film on <strong>the</strong> restaur<strong>an</strong>t<br />
(www.concierge.com/video/asia/mumbai/mumbairestaur<strong>an</strong>ts/1825938935/***-restaur<strong>an</strong>tmumbai/1832211723<br />
- accessed 26 December 2011)<br />
57<br />
Restaur<strong>an</strong>t Reviews <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> Moon,<br />
(bluesviews.bluesmoon.<strong>in</strong>fo/2005/12/***-cuffe-parade-mumbai.html - accessed 26 December 2011).<br />
58<br />
India’s First Signature Chef, (yourstory.<strong>in</strong>/2009/04/***-<strong>in</strong>dias-first-signature-chef/ - accessed 26<br />
December 2011).<br />
59 Hotelier Caterer, op. cit.<br />
60 Restaur<strong>an</strong>t Reviews <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> Moon, op. cit.<br />
61 Leviticus 11:10; Deuteronomy 14:10; Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Yoreh Deah, 83.
17<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r reviewer gave <strong>the</strong> menu he <strong>an</strong>d his friend had, “We started with a Cheese<br />
Fondue <strong>an</strong>d were busy with it for <strong>the</strong> next 5 m<strong>in</strong>utes... Ma<strong>in</strong> course: 1 Expresso<br />
Chicken ... <strong>the</strong> meat was extremely s<strong>of</strong>t <strong>an</strong>d well cooked ... 1 Beaten Fillet Steak<br />
(Yummy yummy beef) .... And a Baked Philadelphia Cheese Cake with a c<strong>an</strong>dle.” 62<br />
Such a menu does not conform to Jewish dietary laws, s<strong>in</strong>ce one need not look <strong>an</strong>y<br />
fur<strong>the</strong>r th<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong> fact that <strong>the</strong>y served a cheese dish immediately after a meat dish. 63<br />
Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, <strong>the</strong> publicised open<strong>in</strong>g times <strong>of</strong> this restaur<strong>an</strong>t <strong>in</strong>clude Shabbat. 64<br />
This restaur<strong>an</strong>t is situated <strong>in</strong> a refurbished old bungalow. 65 From this alone, it c<strong>an</strong> be<br />
clearly seen that this was not <strong>the</strong> dest<strong>in</strong>ation Ronen was seek<strong>in</strong>g. What he was seek<strong>in</strong>g<br />
was on <strong>the</strong> fourth floor <strong>of</strong> a hotel. (There is today <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r restaur<strong>an</strong>t <strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> Colaba which<br />
could be called <strong>an</strong> “Israeli restaur<strong>an</strong>t”, but it was only opened <strong>in</strong> 2008. 66 )<br />
The [taxi] driver drove <strong>in</strong> a str<strong>an</strong>ge <strong>an</strong>d dizzy<strong>in</strong>g way us<strong>in</strong>g a me<strong>an</strong>der<strong>in</strong>g route. ... We<br />
travelled for a long time on side streets <strong>an</strong>d alleyways <strong>an</strong>d when we reached a ma<strong>in</strong><br />
highway we were a long dist<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> hospital ... <strong>the</strong>n we crossed a big bridge, which<br />
passed right by <strong>the</strong> courthouse. ... The taxi ... crossed over <strong>in</strong>to a different neighborhood,<br />
open, with big modern build<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>an</strong>d filled with tourists. The taxi driver stopped <strong>the</strong> car<br />
<strong>an</strong>d <strong>an</strong>nounced, „This is Kolaba‟. ... I got out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cab <strong>an</strong>d started to look around. I was<br />
<strong>in</strong> a large shopp<strong>in</strong>g area, with m<strong>an</strong>y st<strong>an</strong>ds <strong>an</strong>d stores <strong>an</strong>d a lot <strong>of</strong> tourists all around.<br />
(pp.325-26)<br />
In <strong>the</strong> area where <strong>the</strong> taxi ride beg<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong>re are a whole maze <strong>of</strong> side streets <strong>an</strong>d<br />
alleyways. 67 There are two big bridges <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> area which cross a number <strong>of</strong> parallel<br />
railway l<strong>in</strong>es. The more nor<strong>the</strong>rly bridge is <strong>the</strong> Elph<strong>in</strong>stone Bridge. 68 The second one is<br />
about one kilometre south <strong>of</strong> it, <strong>an</strong>d thus a greater dist<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital, <strong>an</strong>d is<br />
called <strong>the</strong> Carnac Bridge. 69 About one kilometre south <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Carnac Bridge is <strong>the</strong><br />
Chhatrapati Shivaji [Rail] Term<strong>in</strong>us (Victoria Term<strong>in</strong>us]. 70 It is at this term<strong>in</strong>us that all<br />
<strong>the</strong> rail l<strong>in</strong>es f<strong>in</strong>ish <strong>an</strong>d so <strong>the</strong>re is no bridge south <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Carnac Bridge.<br />
There are a number <strong>of</strong> bridges <strong>in</strong> Mumbai. They are made <strong>of</strong> stone <strong>an</strong>d were built <strong>from</strong><br />
1866 onwards. However, after nearly 140 years, <strong>the</strong>ir state <strong>of</strong> preservation has<br />
deteriorated <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> article <strong>in</strong> “The Times <strong>of</strong> India” <strong>in</strong> December 2004 appeared <strong>an</strong><br />
article under a rhymed head<strong>in</strong>g “„Bridges to wealth‟ are <strong>in</strong> poor health”. Towards <strong>the</strong><br />
62<br />
Simply beautiful, (mumbai.burrp.com/list<strong>in</strong>g/***_cuffe<br />
parade_mumbai_restaur<strong>an</strong>ts/153130356__UR__reviews?page=2 – accessed 26 December 2011).<br />
63<br />
Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Yoreh Deah. 89:1.<br />
64<br />
Ra<strong>in</strong>rays, (www.ra<strong>in</strong>rays.com/hotels/pr<strong>of</strong>ile/33 - accessed 22 May 2011); India’s Lead<strong>in</strong>g Bus<strong>in</strong>ess<br />
Directory Service, op. cit.<br />
65<br />
www.***.<strong>in</strong>/ - accessed 26 December 2011.<br />
66<br />
www.hospitalitybiz<strong>in</strong>dia.com/detailNews.aspx?aid=1281&sid=23 – accessed 22 May 2011.<br />
67 Mumbai Map, pp.13, 17.<br />
68 Ibid., p.17.<br />
69 Ibid., p.13.<br />
70 Ibid.
18<br />
beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> this article is written “But <strong>the</strong> city [<strong>of</strong> Mumbai] also has a formidable<br />
eng<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g heritage <strong>in</strong> its historical stone bridges m<strong>an</strong>y <strong>of</strong> which, sadly, are <strong>in</strong> bad<br />
shape today.” The writer goes on to quote heritage enthusiast Ragavendra K<strong>an</strong>n<strong>an</strong> who<br />
asks why <strong>the</strong>y are “not listed along with some <strong>of</strong> Mumbai‟s historic build<strong>in</strong>gs?”<br />
These bridges were built “to enable <strong>the</strong> easy passage <strong>of</strong> large qu<strong>an</strong>tities <strong>of</strong> goods <strong>an</strong>d<br />
people between <strong>the</strong> walled Fort area <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> docks” <strong>an</strong>d also “to avoid <strong>the</strong> [railway]<br />
level cross<strong>in</strong>gs which apparently took hours to traverse because <strong>of</strong> suburb<strong>an</strong> tra<strong>in</strong>s” 71<br />
At <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> this article (December 2004) <strong>the</strong> Eleph<strong>in</strong>stone Bridge, built <strong>in</strong> 1868, was<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> be<strong>in</strong>g rebuilt. This bridge is named after Eleph<strong>in</strong>stone, a former<br />
Governor <strong>of</strong> Bombay (Mumbai). 72<br />
Four years earlier <strong>in</strong> 2001, “The Times <strong>of</strong> India” had reported that <strong>the</strong> Carnac Bridge,<br />
which also sp<strong>an</strong>ned a number <strong>of</strong> railway l<strong>in</strong>es was <strong>in</strong> a state <strong>of</strong> urgent repair. Trucks<br />
would park bumper to bumper on ei<strong>the</strong>r side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bridge, even though this was illegal,<br />
but <strong>the</strong> traffic police did noth<strong>in</strong>g about this <strong>an</strong>d as a result <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> excess weight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />
trucks, this bridge could one day buckle. When <strong>the</strong> assist<strong>an</strong>t commissioner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> police<br />
was confronted with this illegal park<strong>in</strong>g, he <strong>an</strong>swered that “he was not aware <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
problem” add<strong>in</strong>g “However I will look <strong>in</strong>to it <strong>an</strong>d do <strong>the</strong> needful.” The article adds that<br />
<strong>the</strong>re were no pl<strong>an</strong>s for restoration work. 73 This bridge is also named after a former<br />
Governor <strong>of</strong> Bombay – James Rivett Carnac who held this position between 1839-<br />
1842. 74<br />
Much fur<strong>the</strong>r south <strong>in</strong> Mumbai is <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> Colaba, <strong>an</strong>d it <strong>in</strong>deed forms <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
tip <strong>of</strong> Mumbai. The name “Colaba” comes <strong>from</strong> kolabhat which is a word <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kolis<br />
l<strong>an</strong>guage. The Kolis were <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>digenous <strong>in</strong>habit<strong>an</strong>ts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> isl<strong>an</strong>ds before <strong>the</strong> arrival <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Portuguese. At a later date, <strong>the</strong> Portuguese Pr<strong>in</strong>cess, Ca<strong>the</strong>r<strong>in</strong>e <strong>of</strong> Brag<strong>an</strong>za (sister<br />
<strong>of</strong> Alphonso VI, <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>n Portuguese monarch) gave as her dowry <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> Colaba<br />
(<strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> neighbour<strong>in</strong>g cluster <strong>of</strong> isl<strong>an</strong>ds) to her newly wedded husb<strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> British<br />
monarch K<strong>in</strong>g Charles II. 75<br />
Colaba is today a major shopp<strong>in</strong>g district for both tourists <strong>an</strong>d locals <strong>an</strong>d it is regarded<br />
as a “one-stop shop” where one c<strong>an</strong> buy <strong>an</strong>yth<strong>in</strong>g one w<strong>an</strong>ts <strong>an</strong>d it is also <strong>the</strong> place for<br />
<strong>the</strong> cheapest clo<strong>the</strong>s after barga<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g a bit. There, <strong>the</strong>re are numerous <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />
world renowned cha<strong>in</strong> stores sell<strong>in</strong>g all m<strong>an</strong>ner <strong>of</strong> cloth<strong>in</strong>g, such as je<strong>an</strong>s, shoes or<br />
athletic apparel. For food, one c<strong>an</strong> f<strong>in</strong>d numerous grocery stores <strong>an</strong>d supermarkets. The<br />
visitor will have no difficulty <strong>in</strong> f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g fast food shops, pizza stores, cake shops <strong>an</strong>d<br />
restaur<strong>an</strong>ts <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> area. Some are vegetari<strong>an</strong> whilst o<strong>the</strong>rs are not. There are also<br />
71 “’Bridges to wealth’ are <strong>in</strong> poor health”, The Times <strong>of</strong> India, 29 December 2004.<br />
72 Ibid.<br />
73 “Carnac Bridge not fit for tra<strong>in</strong>s”, The Times <strong>of</strong> India, 8 August 2001.<br />
74 Wikipedia: James Rivett-Carnac – accessed 26 December 2011.<br />
75 Wikipedia: Colaba – accessed 22 May 2011.
19<br />
markets <strong>in</strong> Colaba where one c<strong>an</strong> buy such th<strong>in</strong>gs as vegetables, fish <strong>an</strong>d cloth<strong>in</strong>g. The<br />
most famous market <strong>in</strong> Colaba is <strong>the</strong> “Colaba Causeway Market”. There one has a<br />
choice <strong>of</strong> three l<strong>an</strong>guages – H<strong>in</strong>di, English <strong>an</strong>d Marathi. This market is famed for its<br />
silver jewellery, shoes <strong>an</strong>d books. If one w<strong>an</strong>ts one‟s name to be written on a gra<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
rice, <strong>the</strong>y say that this is possible <strong>in</strong> this market! 76<br />
Colaba has been described as hav<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong> old English charm <strong>an</strong>d at <strong>the</strong> same time hav<strong>in</strong>g<br />
a very modern feel. 77<br />
There are a large number <strong>of</strong> hotels <strong>in</strong> Colaba, which as <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>y o<strong>the</strong>r place, are <strong>of</strong><br />
differ<strong>in</strong>g st<strong>an</strong>dards – r<strong>an</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> 5 star to budget. It is now common for visitors at<br />
hotels to write <strong>the</strong>ir comments on <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternet. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se comments will be<br />
favourable, whilst o<strong>the</strong>rs will be o<strong>the</strong>rwise. As <strong>an</strong> example, for hotels <strong>in</strong> Colaba, <strong>in</strong><br />
October 2005, “<strong>the</strong>stens” wrote on a hotel he had stayed at “Scruffy, dirty hole. The<br />
first th<strong>in</strong>g we saw on arrival was a rat - <strong>an</strong>d it didn‟t get <strong>an</strong>y better! We arrived at 3 am<br />
after book<strong>in</strong>g on l<strong>in</strong>e, so had no option but to stay. We have travelled extensively on a<br />
budget <strong>in</strong> India, so aren‟t unrealistic, but this was scruffy rip <strong>of</strong>f! We didn‟t discover<br />
<strong>an</strong>y! The room we had booked with en suite bathroom didn‟t have one.” In <strong>an</strong>swer to<br />
this uncomplimentary comment, “Watson” wrote, “Weird? I stayed at both <strong>the</strong>ir guest<br />
house directly on Colaba road <strong>an</strong>d at <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> complex <strong>an</strong>d I thought that both <strong>the</strong><br />
rooms I had were cle<strong>an</strong>, spacious <strong>an</strong>d sunny. Friendly staff <strong>an</strong>d well <strong>an</strong> all around good<br />
place to spend <strong>the</strong> night. They gave rooms at <strong>the</strong> guesthouse for around 995 rupees. It's<br />
a bit loud, but pretty ok.” 78 In <strong>an</strong> attempt to resolve <strong>the</strong>se two contradictory comments,<br />
it would seem that <strong>the</strong> writers had mixed up two different hotels that happened to have<br />
<strong>the</strong> same name!<br />
The ma<strong>in</strong> road through Colaba is Shahid Bhagat S<strong>in</strong>gh Marg (Colaba Causeway Road).<br />
This is a vibr<strong>an</strong>t road which is full <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fices, shops <strong>an</strong>d restaur<strong>an</strong>ts, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> addition<br />
th<strong>in</strong>gs are sold on its sidewalks. 79<br />
From <strong>the</strong> above it c<strong>an</strong> be seen that <strong>in</strong> Colaba <strong>the</strong>re is, as stated <strong>in</strong> Ronen‟s book, a<br />
“large shopp<strong>in</strong>g area, with m<strong>an</strong>y st<strong>an</strong>ds <strong>an</strong>d stores” <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> presence <strong>of</strong> m<strong>an</strong>y hotels<br />
<strong>in</strong>dicates that <strong>the</strong>re will be “a lot <strong>of</strong> tourists all around.”<br />
76<br />
Ibid; Top 5 Mumbai Markets (go<strong>in</strong>dia.about.com/od/shopp<strong>in</strong>g/tp/best-mumbai-markets.htm –<br />
accessed 23 May 2011) ; Colaba Causeway, (www.famous-<strong>in</strong>dia.com/markets/colaba-causeway.html -<br />
accessed 23 May 2011) ; About Colaba Mumbai (www.hotels<strong>in</strong>colaba.net/ - accessed 10 August 2010).<br />
77<br />
Wikipedia: Colaba, op. cit.<br />
78<br />
IndiaMike, www.<strong>in</strong>diamike.com/<strong>in</strong>dia-hotels/mumbai-bombay-hotelsc58/?sort=rat<strong>in</strong>g&pag=4&dir=next<br />
– accessed 26 December 2011.<br />
79<br />
Frommer’s India, (Wiley Publish<strong>in</strong>g, Hoboken, New Jersey 2010) p.123; via Google – Shahid Bhagat<br />
S<strong>in</strong>gh Marg.
20<br />
Let us now try <strong>an</strong>d reconstruct <strong>the</strong> route taken by Ronen‟s taxi <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> alleyway near<br />
<strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital to Colaba, allow<strong>in</strong>g for <strong>the</strong> fact that <strong>the</strong> details given <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book are<br />
very sketchy. Here is a possible route which conforms to almost all <strong>the</strong>se po<strong>in</strong>ts: The<br />
taxi went southwards through a whole maze <strong>of</strong> side streets <strong>an</strong>d alleyways, cross<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />
ma<strong>in</strong> road Sardar Vallabhai Patel Road, 80 <strong>an</strong>d cont<strong>in</strong>ued until it reached Lokm<strong>an</strong>ya<br />
Tilak Marg (Carnac Road), turned left <strong>an</strong>d after a very short dist<strong>an</strong>ce crossed <strong>the</strong> big<br />
Carnac Bridge <strong>an</strong>d reached <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> highway P.D. Mello Road (Frere Road), which<br />
was several kilometres <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital. The taxi turned right at <strong>the</strong> P.D. Mello<br />
Road <strong>an</strong>d cont<strong>in</strong>ued on it for about one <strong>an</strong>d a half kilometers until it reached Walch<strong>an</strong>d<br />
Hirach<strong>an</strong>d Road. There it turned right <strong>an</strong>d at <strong>the</strong> T-junction with Dr Dadabhai Naoroji<br />
Road (Hornby Road) turned left. It cont<strong>in</strong>ued until <strong>the</strong> T-junction with Mahatma<br />
Gh<strong>an</strong>di Road (Espl<strong>an</strong>ade Road) <strong>an</strong>d veered left <strong>an</strong>d cont<strong>in</strong>ued, pass<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> Sessions<br />
Court, until <strong>the</strong> roundabout. It exited <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> roundabout at Shahid Bhagat S<strong>in</strong>g Mart<br />
(Colaba Causeway Road) <strong>an</strong>d cont<strong>in</strong>ued until it reached Colaba. 81<br />
A problem is that Ronen wrote “<strong>the</strong>n we crossed a big bridge, which passes right by <strong>the</strong><br />
courthouse.” In fact <strong>the</strong>re is no “big bridge” close to a courthouse. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, Ronen<br />
is almost certa<strong>in</strong>ly talk<strong>in</strong>g about <strong>the</strong> “Sessions Court” to which he was regularly taken<br />
for a fur<strong>the</strong>r rem<strong>an</strong>d. This court is several kilometres away <strong>from</strong> even <strong>the</strong> nearest bridge<br />
– <strong>the</strong> Carnac Bridge. It is very likely that <strong>the</strong> taxi went passed this courthouse but it was<br />
at least ten m<strong>in</strong>utes after cross<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> Carnac Bridge <strong>an</strong>d thus his account <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> taxi<br />
ride is <strong>in</strong>accurate <strong>in</strong> this detail.<br />
The “Session Court” <strong>of</strong> Mumbai is <strong>the</strong> court which hears crim<strong>in</strong>al cases. Its decisions<br />
c<strong>an</strong> be appealed to <strong>the</strong> Bombay High Court, which was <strong>in</strong>augurated <strong>in</strong> 1862. It is <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>in</strong>terest to note that even when <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city was ch<strong>an</strong>ged <strong>in</strong> 1995 <strong>from</strong> Bombay<br />
to Mumbai, <strong>the</strong> High Court reta<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>the</strong> name “Bombay High Court”. 82 There are also<br />
m<strong>an</strong>y o<strong>the</strong>r courts <strong>in</strong> Mumbai. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m is <strong>the</strong> “Small Cases Court” which hears<br />
civil cases. O<strong>the</strong>r courts are <strong>the</strong> Coroner Court, <strong>the</strong> Industrial Court <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Juvenile<br />
Court. 83<br />
I ... asked him [a religious Jewish m<strong>an</strong> st<strong>an</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g close by] if he knew if he knew if <strong>the</strong>re was<br />
<strong>an</strong> Israeli restaur<strong>an</strong>t nearby. „Yes it‟s at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> street on <strong>the</strong> left. There is a hotel<br />
<strong>the</strong>re <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> restaur<strong>an</strong>t is on <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>.‟... I r<strong>an</strong> fast follow<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> m<strong>an</strong>‟s directions <strong>an</strong>d<br />
easily found <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g. ... I r<strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>side <strong>an</strong>d pressed <strong>the</strong> button [<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> elevator] for <strong>the</strong><br />
last floor. ... I reached <strong>the</strong> fourth floor <strong>an</strong>d saw a door with “Or HaYisrael” on it. I<br />
knocked on <strong>the</strong> door. ... I went <strong>in</strong>. (pp.326-27)<br />
The “Israeli restaur<strong>an</strong>t” was <strong>in</strong> fact <strong>the</strong> “Bet Chabad” (Chabad House) <strong>of</strong> Mumbai <strong>an</strong>d<br />
<strong>the</strong> sign on <strong>the</strong> door read “Bet Chabad”. 84 It would seem that <strong>the</strong> author <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> book<br />
80 Mumbai Map, p.17.<br />
81 Ibid., pp.17, 13, 10.<br />
82 Wikipedia: Bombay High Court – accessed 27 December2011.<br />
83 Mumbai High Court (www.mumbaionl<strong>in</strong>e.<strong>in</strong>/Adm<strong>in</strong>istration/courts.asp - accessed 10 August 2010).<br />
84 This was stated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> various lectures given by Ronen.
21<br />
made <strong>the</strong>se ch<strong>an</strong>ges so that <strong>the</strong>re would be no repercussions on Chabad for <strong>the</strong>ir hav<strong>in</strong>g<br />
assisted his <strong>escape</strong> <strong>from</strong> jail. However, s<strong>in</strong>ce Ronen, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> lectures he gave, states that<br />
he went to <strong>the</strong> “Bet Chabad” <strong>an</strong>d more especially that Chabad <strong>in</strong> at least two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
publications 85 state this fact, <strong>the</strong>re is no reason not to mention it here.<br />
How did Ronen get to Shelley‟s Hotel, which <strong>the</strong>n housed Chabad House, after<br />
alight<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> taxi? It would seem that Ronen got <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> taxi at Apollo B<strong>an</strong>dar<br />
Road, or maybe <strong>in</strong> Sahid Bhagat S<strong>in</strong>gh Marg opposite Apollo B<strong>an</strong>dar Road. Follow<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>structions he received, he went about 300 meters along Apollo B<strong>an</strong>dar Road till<br />
he reached <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> this road <strong>an</strong>d just around <strong>the</strong> corner after turn<strong>in</strong>g left <strong>in</strong>to <strong>in</strong> P.J.<br />
Ramch<strong>an</strong>d<strong>an</strong>i Marg (Str<strong>an</strong>d Road) was Shelley‟s Hotel. 86<br />
Shelley‟s Hotel (which closed towards <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> 2007 87 ) was situated at <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
end <strong>of</strong> Ramch<strong>an</strong>d<strong>an</strong>i Marg, right on <strong>the</strong> coast, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> proximity <strong>of</strong> three o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
hotels. 88 The build<strong>in</strong>g is four storied <strong>an</strong>d has <strong>an</strong> elevator. It was built <strong>in</strong> 1935, at <strong>the</strong><br />
period <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> British Raj, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g has been declared a “Protected Heritage<br />
Structure”. 89 It had 42 air conditioned bedrooms, which had wall to wall carpets with<br />
private bathrooms. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rooms were de-luxe <strong>an</strong>d had added facilities such as a<br />
refrigerator. The hotel was regarded as one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best budget hotels <strong>in</strong> Mumbai. 90<br />
As with m<strong>an</strong>y hotels, <strong>the</strong>re are both positive <strong>an</strong>d negative reviews on Shelley‟s Hotel.<br />
On <strong>the</strong> positive side, <strong>the</strong>re is “Good location, very nice small colonial hotel, delux (sic)<br />
sea fac<strong>in</strong>g room spacious <strong>an</strong>d well furnished, large comfy bed, good amenities.” On<br />
<strong>the</strong> negative side, “Rude, surly staff at front desk, price I was quoted by email was<br />
<strong>in</strong>creased for <strong>an</strong> additional childs matress (sic) on <strong>the</strong> floor, despite my request<br />
stipulat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> room was for 3.” 91<br />
Chabad House <strong>of</strong> Mumbai was set up at <strong>the</strong> beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> 2003 <strong>in</strong> a rented room on <strong>the</strong><br />
top floor <strong>of</strong> Shelley‟s Hotel, by a newly married couple, Rabbi Gavriel <strong>an</strong>d Rivkah<br />
Holtzberg. It catered to <strong>the</strong> city‟s local Jewish community <strong>an</strong>d travell<strong>in</strong>g Jewish<br />
bus<strong>in</strong>essmen as well as to Israelis, especially those who had just f<strong>in</strong>ished <strong>the</strong>ir army<br />
service, who were on <strong>the</strong> way to “party hotspots” such as Goa <strong>an</strong>d Rajasth<strong>an</strong>. The<br />
85<br />
“Yosef was forgotten <strong>in</strong> prison, but not me”, Beis Moshiach, (Brooklyn, New York: 29 Kislev 5769<br />
(2008)), issue 676, pp.10-11; “Escape <strong>from</strong> India”, L’Chaim (Lubavitch Youth Org<strong>an</strong>ization, Brooklyn<br />
New York: 8 May 2009), issue 1069.<br />
86<br />
Mumbai Map, p.10.<br />
87<br />
Is Shelleys Hotel closed? (www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g304554-i4228-k1695732-<br />
Is_Shelleys_Hotel_closed-Mumbai_Bombay_Maharashtra.html - accessed 25 May 2011)<br />
88<br />
Mumbai Map, pp.9-10.<br />
89<br />
Shelleys Hotel Mumbai (<strong>in</strong>doexpedition.com/shelleys-hotel-mumbai.html - accessed 10 J<strong>an</strong>uary<br />
2010).<br />
90<br />
Hotels Mumbai India (www.hotelsmumbai<strong>in</strong>dia.com/hotel-shelleys.html - accessed 25 May 2011) ;<br />
Shelleys Hotel Mumbai (www.<strong>in</strong>diahotel<strong>an</strong>dresort.com/hotels-<strong>in</strong>-maharashtra/hotels-<strong>in</strong>mumbai/budget-hotels/shelleys-hotel.html<br />
- accessed 25 May 2011).<br />
91 IndiaMike: Hotel Shelleys Mumbai (Bombay) – accessed 10 August 2010.
22<br />
conditions <strong>in</strong> Shelley‟s Hotel were far <strong>from</strong> ideal for <strong>the</strong> needs <strong>of</strong> Chabad. They had no<br />
kitchen, little space <strong>an</strong>d a highly disagreeable owner. However, at a later date, <strong>the</strong>y<br />
m<strong>an</strong>aged to exp<strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>ir space at this hotel. Despite all <strong>the</strong>se difficulties, <strong>the</strong>y would<br />
serve meals. S<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong>re were no kasher chickens available, Gavriel, who was also a<br />
shochet would slaughter hundreds <strong>of</strong> chickens each week. 92 Chabad House <strong>in</strong> Mumbai<br />
<strong>of</strong>fers numerous services which <strong>in</strong>clude <strong>an</strong> Israel Center, a Women‟s Group, Kitchen<br />
Kosher<strong>in</strong>g, Food Package Distribution, a Library, <strong>an</strong>d Medical Services. 93 In addition,<br />
this Chabad House <strong>of</strong>fers Prison Visitation, <strong>an</strong>d on a number <strong>of</strong> occasions Gabriel was<br />
able to visit Ronen when he was <strong>in</strong>carcerated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Arthur Road jail. 94 [At a later date,<br />
<strong>in</strong> 2006, <strong>the</strong> Holtzbergs purchased a nearby build<strong>in</strong>g, Narim<strong>an</strong> House, which became<br />
<strong>the</strong> perm<strong>an</strong>ent Chabad House <strong>of</strong> Mumbai, but tragically, <strong>in</strong> 2008, <strong>the</strong> Holtzbergs were<br />
murdered <strong>in</strong> a terrorist attack. 95 ]<br />
The Chabad House <strong>in</strong> Mumbai is just one <strong>of</strong> several thous<strong>an</strong>d Chabad Houses<br />
worldwide which c<strong>an</strong> be found <strong>in</strong> over one thous<strong>an</strong>d cities throughout <strong>the</strong> world. It<br />
was <strong>the</strong> seventh Lubavitch (Chabad) Rebbe, Rabbi Menachem Mendel Schneerson who<br />
founded <strong>the</strong>se Chabad Houses. Each Chabad House is run by a rabbi <strong>an</strong>d his wife <strong>an</strong>d<br />
provides educational <strong>an</strong>d outreach activities. 96 Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se are to be found <strong>in</strong> well –<br />
known cities with large Jewish population, examples be<strong>in</strong>g, Jerusalem, Tel-Aviv, New<br />
York, London, M<strong>an</strong>chester, Moscow <strong>an</strong>d Melbourne. However, o<strong>the</strong>rs are to be found<br />
<strong>in</strong> more obscure places, examples be<strong>in</strong>g, Tall<strong>in</strong>n <strong>in</strong> Estonia, Seoul <strong>in</strong> South Korea,<br />
Yerev<strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong> Armenia, Lagos <strong>in</strong> Nigeria, K<strong>in</strong>shasa <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Congo, La Paz <strong>in</strong> Bolivia, <strong>an</strong>d<br />
Queenstown <strong>in</strong> New Zeal<strong>an</strong>d. 97<br />
Chabad –Lubavitch is a Chasidic movement which was founded <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> late 18th century<br />
by Rabbi Shneur Zalm<strong>an</strong> <strong>of</strong> Liadi. The name “Lubavitch” comes <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> Russi<strong>an</strong><br />
town Lyubavichi, where <strong>the</strong> group was based until <strong>the</strong> early 20th century. In 1940, it<br />
tr<strong>an</strong>sferred to New York, where <strong>the</strong>y purchased 770 Eastern Parkway, which has been<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir world headquarters s<strong>in</strong>ce that date. Lubavitch Chasidim all over <strong>the</strong> world have<br />
built replicas <strong>of</strong> this build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> locations which <strong>in</strong>clude Kfar Chabad <strong>in</strong> Israel, Los<br />
Angeles, Melbourne, Mil<strong>an</strong>, Brazil <strong>an</strong>d Argent<strong>in</strong>a. 98<br />
92<br />
Wikipedia: Narim<strong>an</strong> House – accessed 22 December 2009; New York News & Features, G-d’s Work<br />
(nymag.com/news/features/56001/<strong>in</strong>dex2.html - accessed 22 December 2009).<br />
93<br />
Chabad.org. Centers, Chabad-Lubavitch <strong>of</strong> Mumbai<br />
(www.chabad.org/centers/default_cdo/aid/118651/jewish/Chabad-Lubavitch-<strong>of</strong>-Mumbai.htm -<br />
accessed 24 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
94<br />
“Murderers <strong>in</strong> my Prison Cell”, Mishpacha, English edition, 12 October 2008, pp.56-57.<br />
95<br />
Wikipedia: Narim<strong>an</strong> House, op. cit.<br />
96<br />
Wikipedia: Chabad – accessed 24 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012; Wikipedia: Chabad house – accessed 24 J<strong>an</strong>uary<br />
2012.<br />
97<br />
Chabad.org, Centers (www.chabad.org/centers/default_cdo/jewish/Centers.htm - accessed 24<br />
J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
98 Wikipedia: Chabad, op. cit.; Wikipedia: 770 Eastern Parkway – accessed 24 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012.
23<br />
[When Ronen arrived, Rivkah Holtzberg was <strong>in</strong> Bet Chabad but not Rabbi Gavriel] She<br />
[Rivkah] prepared for me five thous<strong>an</strong>d rupees, a cle<strong>an</strong> white shirt, a baseball cap ...<br />
[Ronen quickly ch<strong>an</strong>ged his clo<strong>the</strong>s s<strong>in</strong>ce he] was sure that <strong>the</strong> police would show up at<br />
<strong>an</strong>y moment <strong>an</strong>d after th<strong>an</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g her for everyth<strong>in</strong>g r<strong>an</strong> outside. (pp.327-28)<br />
In <strong>an</strong> article <strong>in</strong> “Beis Moshiach” published by <strong>the</strong> Lubavitch <strong>in</strong> New York, Ronen<br />
describes how Rabbi Gavriel Holtzberg did <strong>the</strong> maximum to help him whilst he was<br />
<strong>in</strong>carcerated. Every two weeks, he would visit him <strong>in</strong> jail, or send someone <strong>from</strong><br />
Chabad House. On Succot, he brought him <strong>the</strong> arba‟at ham<strong>in</strong>im, on Purim he read him<br />
<strong>the</strong> megillah, <strong>an</strong>d when he became ill because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> terrible s<strong>an</strong>itary conditions <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
jail, he bought him expensive medic<strong>in</strong>es. Rabbi Holtzberg would also give bribes to<br />
those <strong>in</strong> charge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> jail, so that Ronen <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r Israelis <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> jail would enjoy<br />
certa<strong>in</strong> adv<strong>an</strong>tages – baksheesh was <strong>the</strong> way th<strong>in</strong>gs worked <strong>in</strong> India! With regards to<br />
his <strong>escape</strong> <strong>from</strong> jail, Ronen stated, “When I m<strong>an</strong>aged to <strong>escape</strong> after a year <strong>an</strong>d a half <strong>in</strong><br />
prison, <strong>the</strong> first place I went to was <strong>the</strong> Chabad House, although R‟ Gabi [Rabbi<br />
Gavriel Holtzberg] had asked me not to do so s<strong>in</strong>ce it could jeopardize <strong>the</strong>ir work. Only<br />
his wife was <strong>the</strong>re, <strong>an</strong>d when she saw what condition I was <strong>in</strong> she let me <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d gave<br />
me some <strong>of</strong> her husb<strong>an</strong>d‟s warm clo<strong>the</strong>s, money, food <strong>an</strong>d a water bottle.” 99<br />
The courageous assist<strong>an</strong>ce given to Ronen by Rivkah, after he had m<strong>an</strong>aged to <strong>escape</strong><br />
<strong>from</strong> jail, is also mentioned <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> article which appeared <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> magaz<strong>in</strong>e “Mishpacha”<br />
follow<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> brutal murder <strong>of</strong> her <strong>an</strong>d her husb<strong>an</strong>d. “[Ronen] Dvash made his way to<br />
Chabad House. Rivka was home alone at <strong>the</strong> time. Despite her fears, she calmly gave<br />
[Ronen] Dvash food <strong>an</strong>d dr<strong>in</strong>k, provided him with money <strong>an</strong>d even gave him some <strong>of</strong><br />
Gavriel‟s clo<strong>the</strong>s <strong>an</strong>d a hat.” 100<br />
Accord<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> Israeli newspapers, <strong>the</strong> police learned dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>ir search for Ronen<br />
that follow<strong>in</strong>g his <strong>escape</strong>, he had been at <strong>the</strong> Chabad House, where he had been given<br />
cle<strong>an</strong> clo<strong>the</strong>s. 101<br />
I decided to try <strong>an</strong>d hide <strong>in</strong> a private hospital called George Kennedy Britz, which is on a<br />
small street near <strong>the</strong> oce<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d I hoped <strong>the</strong>y [<strong>the</strong> police] wouldn‟t look for me <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
(p.328)<br />
Although <strong>the</strong>re are numerous hospitals <strong>in</strong> Mumbai, some governmental, some<br />
municipal, <strong>an</strong>d o<strong>the</strong>rs private, <strong>the</strong>re is no hospital with <strong>the</strong> name “George Kennedy<br />
Britz”. It is a mis-hear<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “Breach C<strong>an</strong>dy Hospital”, which is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major<br />
private hospitals <strong>in</strong> Mumbai. 102 It is likely that <strong>the</strong> miswrit<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> this<br />
hospital arose as follows. The word “Breach” tr<strong>an</strong>sliterated <strong>in</strong>to Hebrew letters would<br />
be bet-reish-yud-tsadi with <strong>an</strong> apostrophe symbol after it to give it <strong>the</strong> sound “ch”.<br />
99<br />
“Yosef was forgotten <strong>in</strong> prison, but not me”, op. cit.<br />
100<br />
“Murderers <strong>in</strong> My Prison Cell”, Mishpacha, English edition, 10 December 2008, p.57.<br />
101<br />
“Yisraeli barach mehakele hahodi”, Yediot Acharonot, 29 September 2005, p.13; “Ezrach Yisraeli<br />
nimlat mimatzar behodu”, Ma’ariv, 29 September 2005, p.16.<br />
102<br />
Acknowledgements to “Ghmyrtle’ via Wikipedia Reference desk – Hum<strong>an</strong>ities, 31 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2010 for<br />
this <strong>in</strong>formation.
24<br />
Were this apostrophe to be omitted, it could be read as “britz”. “C<strong>an</strong>dy” when<br />
tr<strong>an</strong>sliterated <strong>in</strong>to Hebrew letters without vowel po<strong>in</strong>ts c<strong>an</strong> easily be read as<br />
“Kennedy”. Where <strong>the</strong>n does “George” come <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> name? George Kennedy is a<br />
famous person <strong>in</strong> show bus<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>an</strong>d by <strong>the</strong> process association <strong>of</strong> words, <strong>the</strong> word<br />
“George” became, <strong>in</strong> Ronen‟s m<strong>in</strong>d, part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> this hospital!<br />
The Breach C<strong>an</strong>dy Hospital is situated on <strong>the</strong> coast at 60 Bhulabhai Desai Road,<br />
(better known as Breach C<strong>an</strong>dy or Warden Road), <strong>in</strong> a niche up-market residential <strong>an</strong>d<br />
semi-commercial locality <strong>of</strong> South Mumbai, <strong>an</strong> area which has high rise build<strong>in</strong>gs. 103<br />
This hospital was established <strong>in</strong> 1958 <strong>an</strong>d has 173 beds. It has m<strong>an</strong>y departments <strong>an</strong>d is<br />
regarded as a prestigious hospital, so much so, that even a former Prime M<strong>in</strong>ister Atal<br />
Bihari Vajpayee utilised its services. The hospital‟s m<strong>an</strong>y facilities <strong>in</strong>clude pediatric<br />
services, artificial kidney services <strong>an</strong>d a medical research centre. It is renowned for its<br />
medical expertise, excellent nurs<strong>in</strong>g care <strong>an</strong>d quality diagnostics. 104<br />
I exited <strong>the</strong> [Shelley] hotel [where <strong>the</strong> Chabad House was situated] <strong>an</strong>d caught a taxi <strong>an</strong>d<br />
headed towards <strong>the</strong> [Breach C<strong>an</strong>dy] hospital. The taxi traveled along <strong>the</strong> coast far <strong>from</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> streets. When we arrived at <strong>the</strong> hospital I immediately realized that I couldn‟t<br />
hide <strong>the</strong>re. It was a small quiet place <strong>an</strong>d I would st<strong>an</strong>d out too much. (p.328)<br />
Probably <strong>the</strong> shortest route <strong>from</strong> Shelley‟s Hotel to Breach C<strong>an</strong>dy Hospital goes via <strong>the</strong><br />
ma<strong>in</strong> streets <strong>of</strong> Mumbai, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g pass<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> Sessions Court, <strong>an</strong>d only a relatively<br />
small part <strong>of</strong> this route is on <strong>the</strong> coastal road. 105 This does not seem to conform with <strong>the</strong><br />
route taken by this taxi carry<strong>in</strong>g Ronen. Due to <strong>the</strong> lack <strong>of</strong> detail <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book as to <strong>the</strong><br />
route taken, <strong>the</strong>re are a number <strong>of</strong> possibilities that <strong>the</strong> taxi could have taken, to reach<br />
<strong>the</strong> coastal road. One <strong>of</strong> such possibilities was to go along Apollo B<strong>an</strong>der Road, turn<br />
left at Shahid Bhagat S<strong>in</strong>gh Marg, turn right at <strong>the</strong> secondary road Fourth Pasta L<strong>an</strong>e<br />
<strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>n veer right to a road near to <strong>the</strong> coast, Prakash Pe<strong>the</strong> Marg (Cuffe Parade<br />
Road). This road cont<strong>in</strong>ues <strong>in</strong>to Jag<strong>an</strong>nath Bhosle Road; <strong>the</strong>n one turns left at <strong>the</strong><br />
junction with Madame Cama Road, which term<strong>in</strong>ates at <strong>the</strong> coastal road, Netaji<br />
Subhash Ch<strong>an</strong>dra Bose Road (Mar<strong>in</strong>e Drive). One <strong>the</strong>n turns right at this coastal road<br />
<strong>an</strong>d cont<strong>in</strong>ues along it until <strong>the</strong> Breach C<strong>an</strong>dy Hospital; <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road ch<strong>an</strong>ges<br />
several times along this coastal road. 106<br />
I ... looked for a store with <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational public phone [where he telephoned his wife<br />
who was naturally very excited to learn that he had <strong>escape</strong>d <strong>an</strong>d told her his immediate<br />
pl<strong>an</strong>s <strong>an</strong>d asked for <strong>the</strong> family‟s practical help]. (pp.328-29)<br />
The earliest “telephone” c<strong>an</strong> be traced back to 1667 when Robert Hooke <strong>in</strong>vented a<br />
str<strong>in</strong>g telephone that conveyed sounds over <strong>an</strong> extended wire by mech<strong>an</strong>ical vibrations.<br />
103 Wikipedia: Breach C<strong>an</strong>dy – accessed 26 May 2011.<br />
104 Breach C<strong>an</strong>dy Hospital Mumbai (www.<strong>in</strong>di<strong>an</strong>healthguru.com/breach-c<strong>an</strong>dy-hospital-mumbai.htm -<br />
accessed 26 May 2011); Wikipedia: Breach C<strong>an</strong>dy Hospital – accessed 26 May 2011.<br />
105 Google Maps – get directions.<br />
106 For route see Mumbai Map, pp. 10, 13, 12, 16, 12, 11, 15, 16.
25<br />
The electric telephone was <strong>in</strong>vented about two hundred years later, but <strong>the</strong> credit for its<br />
<strong>in</strong>vention is disputed <strong>an</strong>d has been attributed to at least six people! 107<br />
In <strong>the</strong> early days <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> telephone, <strong>the</strong>re was no direct dial<strong>in</strong>g – <strong>the</strong> service was m<strong>an</strong>ual.<br />
The customer lifted <strong>the</strong> receiver <strong>of</strong>f its hook <strong>an</strong>d asked <strong>an</strong> operator to connect him to a<br />
requested number. Automatic dial<strong>in</strong>g only came <strong>in</strong>to existence at <strong>the</strong> beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
20th century. 108 But this was only for relatively short dist<strong>an</strong>ces. Long dist<strong>an</strong>ce calls<br />
known as “trunk” calls still had to be made through <strong>an</strong> operator. Initially, <strong>the</strong>y had to be<br />
booked <strong>in</strong> adv<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> operator would tell <strong>the</strong> customer when it could be put<br />
through. In about 1920, this procedure was shortened allow<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong> immediate<br />
connection, but still via <strong>an</strong> operator. 109<br />
A historic milestone occurred <strong>in</strong> 1958 when <strong>the</strong> Queen <strong>of</strong> Engl<strong>an</strong>d made <strong>the</strong> first long<br />
dist<strong>an</strong>ce telephone call without <strong>an</strong> operator when she telephoned <strong>from</strong> Bristol to<br />
Ed<strong>in</strong>burgh, 110 a dist<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>of</strong> about 600 kilometres. 111 But that was about <strong>the</strong> limit <strong>in</strong><br />
those days. 112 The term “STD” (Subscriber trunk dial<strong>in</strong>g) <strong>the</strong>n came <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> English<br />
l<strong>an</strong>guage <strong>an</strong>d this me<strong>an</strong>s that subscribers c<strong>an</strong> dial trunk calls without us<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong><br />
operator. 113<br />
S<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong> late 20th century, most <strong>in</strong>ternational calls c<strong>an</strong> be dialed directly. 114 Each<br />
country has been given a country call<strong>in</strong>g code, for example for Israel it is 972 <strong>an</strong>d for<br />
India it is 91. 115 This is <strong>the</strong>n followed by <strong>the</strong> area code, for example, Jerusalem area is<br />
02, Haifa <strong>an</strong>d Nor<strong>the</strong>rn area is 04, but <strong>the</strong> 0 is not used when dial<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> outside<br />
Israel, 116 <strong>an</strong>d this is followed by <strong>the</strong> recipient‟s own telephone number.<br />
From this it c<strong>an</strong> be seem that Ronen <strong>in</strong> 2005 was able to dial directly <strong>from</strong> India to<br />
Israel. Incidentally <strong>the</strong> term “STD” is still used <strong>in</strong> India to describe <strong>an</strong>y national call<br />
made o<strong>the</strong>r th<strong>an</strong> one‟s local unit. 117<br />
I decided to walk along <strong>the</strong> beach because I was afraid <strong>of</strong> checkpo<strong>in</strong>ts. ... I walked slowly<br />
for two hours on <strong>the</strong> beach. ... I returned to <strong>the</strong> street, stopped a taxi <strong>an</strong>d ordered him to<br />
take me to <strong>the</strong> Dadar tra<strong>in</strong> station, which is very far <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> hospital <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> prison. After<br />
107<br />
Wikipedia: History <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> telephone – accessed 25 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012.<br />
108<br />
Wikipedia: Telephone exch<strong>an</strong>ge – accessed 25 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012.<br />
109<br />
Wikipedia: Trunk vs. Toll – accessed 25 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012.<br />
110 th<br />
BBC News: 50 <strong>an</strong>niversary <strong>of</strong> historic call (news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/7766631.stm - accessed<br />
25 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
111<br />
Google Maps – get directions.<br />
112 th<br />
BBC News: 50 <strong>an</strong>niversary <strong>of</strong> historic call, op. cit., text <strong>of</strong> Queen’s speech.<br />
113<br />
Yahoo Answers: What does std st<strong>an</strong>d for <strong>in</strong> phone terms?<br />
(uk.<strong>an</strong>swers.yahoo.com/question/<strong>in</strong>dex?qid=20080726054911AAg87Pe – accessed 25 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
114<br />
Wikipedia: International direct dial<strong>in</strong>g – accessed 25 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012.<br />
115 Wikipedia: List <strong>of</strong> country call<strong>in</strong>g codes – accessed 25 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012.<br />
116 Wikipedia: Telephone numbers <strong>in</strong> Israel – accessed 25 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012.<br />
117 Yahoo Answers: What does std st<strong>an</strong>d for <strong>in</strong> phone terms? op. cit.
26<br />
fourty (sic) m<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>of</strong> smooth driv<strong>in</strong>g with no checkpo<strong>in</strong>ts, we arrived at <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> station.<br />
(pp.329-30)<br />
The Breach C<strong>an</strong>dy Hospital is right on <strong>the</strong> coast <strong>an</strong>d for a reconstruction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> route <strong>of</strong><br />
Ronen‟s two hour slow walk on <strong>the</strong> beach, <strong>the</strong>re are a number <strong>of</strong> possibilities. He could<br />
have walked <strong>in</strong> a nor<strong>the</strong>rly direction, <strong>in</strong> a sou<strong>the</strong>rly one, or just backwards <strong>an</strong>d<br />
forwards. Follow<strong>in</strong>g this walk, he returned to <strong>the</strong> street, namely <strong>the</strong> coastal road, <strong>an</strong>d<br />
took a taxi to Dadar Railway Station. The time for a taxi ride between <strong>the</strong> hospital <strong>an</strong>d<br />
<strong>the</strong> railway station is about 14 m<strong>in</strong>utes. 118 S<strong>in</strong>ce his taxi ride took 40 m<strong>in</strong>utes, it would<br />
seem that this two hour walk was <strong>in</strong> a sou<strong>the</strong>rly direction, thus mak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> taxi ride to<br />
Dadar Railway Station much longer th<strong>an</strong> 14 m<strong>in</strong>utes.<br />
Dadar Railway Station is about 8.5 kilometres by road <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> JJ Hospital, <strong>an</strong>d about<br />
5.5 kilometres, also by road, <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> Arthur Road jail. 119 These dist<strong>an</strong>ces would<br />
accord with Ronen‟s expression <strong>of</strong> “very far <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> hospital <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> prison.”<br />
Dadar Railway Station is just one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> numerous stations on Mumbai‟s extensive<br />
suburb<strong>an</strong> railway system. This railway system beg<strong>an</strong> its operations <strong>in</strong> 1857 <strong>an</strong>d today<br />
has a system length <strong>of</strong> over 300 kilometres. The railway has two l<strong>in</strong>es, namely, <strong>the</strong><br />
Western Railway <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Central Railway. The Central Railway also has a br<strong>an</strong>ch l<strong>in</strong>e<br />
known as <strong>the</strong> Harbour L<strong>in</strong>e, s<strong>in</strong>ce it has stations such as Dockyard Road. Each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
l<strong>in</strong>es has both a fast track <strong>an</strong>d a slow track. Hav<strong>in</strong>g two such tracks enables some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
tra<strong>in</strong>s not to stop at every station <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y c<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong>refore overtake tra<strong>in</strong>s us<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> slow<br />
track. The fast tracks are also used by long dist<strong>an</strong>ce (namely, out <strong>of</strong> Mumbai) tra<strong>in</strong>s <strong>an</strong>d<br />
by freight tra<strong>in</strong>s. Both <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> l<strong>in</strong>es beg<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir operations almost at <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn tip <strong>of</strong><br />
Mumbai, <strong>the</strong> Western Railway at a station called Churchgate <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Central Railway<br />
at a station called Mumbai C.S.T. 120<br />
I went to <strong>the</strong> cashier [at Dadar Station] <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>quired about purchas<strong>in</strong>g a ticket to ei<strong>the</strong>r<br />
Amdabar [Ahmadabad], <strong>the</strong> capital <strong>of</strong> [<strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong>] Gujarat ... or [to <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong>]<br />
Rajasth<strong>an</strong> ... The teller <strong>in</strong>formed me that <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> to Rajasth<strong>an</strong> leaves only at night <strong>an</strong>d<br />
<strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> to Gujarat leaves at seven o‟clock <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g [which was <strong>in</strong> four hours‟ time].<br />
(p.330)<br />
In addition to <strong>the</strong> suburb<strong>an</strong> tra<strong>in</strong>s which go through Dadar Station, <strong>the</strong>re are also<br />
<strong>in</strong>terstate tra<strong>in</strong>s which go <strong>from</strong> Mumbai via Dadar Station to states such as Gujarat <strong>an</strong>d<br />
Rajasth<strong>an</strong>. For example, <strong>the</strong>re is a tra<strong>in</strong> called <strong>the</strong> “Gujarat Mail” which starts at<br />
Mumbai Central <strong>an</strong>d goes via Dadar Station, Surat <strong>an</strong>d Vadodara, <strong>an</strong>d whose f<strong>in</strong>al<br />
dest<strong>in</strong>ation is Ahmadabad which is <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Gujarat; this is a journey <strong>of</strong> about 500<br />
118<br />
Google Maps – get directions.<br />
119<br />
Ibid.<br />
120<br />
India Railway Atlas, & Time Table ed. R.P.Arya (India Map Service: Jodhpur, 2003) pp.34-35;<br />
Mumbai Suburb<strong>an</strong> Railway (www.search.com/reference/Mumbai_Suburb<strong>an</strong>_Railway - accessed 26<br />
May 2011).
27<br />
kilometres <strong>an</strong>d takes about eight <strong>an</strong>d a half hours. 121 The Gujarat Mail is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
oldest <strong>an</strong>d most prestigious overnight superfast mail tra<strong>in</strong>s runn<strong>in</strong>g on this route.<br />
Although it is still titled “mail” it does not (at least s<strong>in</strong>ce March 2006) carry postal mail<br />
<strong>an</strong>ymore. 122 An example <strong>of</strong> a tra<strong>in</strong> which starts at Mumbai Central, whose dest<strong>in</strong>ation is<br />
Rajasth<strong>an</strong>, <strong>an</strong>d which goes via Dadar Station is <strong>the</strong> “Jaipur Superfast Special”. This<br />
tra<strong>in</strong> goes via Surat, Vadodara, Ahmadabad, Abu Road, Ajmer Junction <strong>an</strong>d whose<br />
f<strong>in</strong>al dest<strong>in</strong>ation is Jaipur which is <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong>; a journey <strong>of</strong> over 20 hours<br />
<strong>an</strong>d <strong>of</strong> length <strong>of</strong> over 1,100 kilometres. 123<br />
Gujarat <strong>an</strong>d Rajasth<strong>an</strong> are two <strong>of</strong> twenty-eight states which toge<strong>the</strong>r with seven union<br />
territories are collectively called <strong>the</strong> Republic <strong>of</strong> India. These states <strong>an</strong>d territories are<br />
fur<strong>the</strong>r subdivided <strong>in</strong>to districts. Each state has its own legislature, executive <strong>an</strong>d<br />
judiciary, <strong>the</strong> later right up to <strong>the</strong> level <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> state‟s High Court. Situated <strong>in</strong> New Delhi,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Federal capital <strong>of</strong> India, is <strong>the</strong> Central Government, which comprises three<br />
<strong>in</strong>dependent br<strong>an</strong>ches. These are a bicameral Parliament, whose membership are <strong>the</strong><br />
representatives <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> various states <strong>an</strong>d union territories, <strong>the</strong> Executive br<strong>an</strong>ch <strong>of</strong><br />
government, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> India Supreme Court whose functions <strong>in</strong>cludes appeals <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
various state high courts. India is <strong>the</strong> seventh largest country <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world by<br />
geographical area, <strong>the</strong> second most populous country with a population <strong>of</strong> 1.2 billion<br />
people <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> most populous democracy <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world. The name “India” is derived<br />
<strong>from</strong> Indus, which is derived <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> Old Persi<strong>an</strong> word H<strong>in</strong>du. Its <strong>of</strong>ficial l<strong>an</strong>guages<br />
are H<strong>in</strong>di <strong>an</strong>d English <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>re are also numerous recognised regional l<strong>an</strong>guages. 124<br />
I decided that <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> was <strong>the</strong> safest option. The station was full <strong>an</strong>d busy, with<br />
thous<strong>an</strong>ds <strong>of</strong> passengers on <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong>. (p.330)<br />
Dadar is <strong>the</strong> only railway station which is common to both <strong>the</strong> Western <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Central<br />
l<strong>in</strong>es on <strong>the</strong> Mumbai Suburb<strong>an</strong> Railway <strong>an</strong>d this makes it a tr<strong>an</strong>sit po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>from</strong> one l<strong>in</strong>e<br />
to <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>an</strong>d as a result, this railway station is <strong>the</strong> most crowded one on <strong>the</strong> Mumbai<br />
Suburb<strong>an</strong> Railway. Thus Ronen felt that this station would be <strong>the</strong> safest way <strong>from</strong><br />
which to leave Mumbai. In total, this suburb<strong>an</strong> railway carries over six million<br />
passengers every day <strong>an</strong>d it has <strong>the</strong> highest passenger density <strong>of</strong> <strong>an</strong>y urb<strong>an</strong> railway<br />
system <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world. Ano<strong>the</strong>r record which this railway holds, but far less pleas<strong>an</strong>t, is<br />
that more th<strong>an</strong> 3,500 people get killed <strong>an</strong>nually due to <strong>the</strong>ir trespass<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong> railway<br />
121<br />
Gujarat Mail (<strong>in</strong>diarail<strong>in</strong>fo.com/tra<strong>in</strong>/570/297/60 – accessed 27 May 2011).<br />
122<br />
Wikipedia: Gujarat Mail (as at 29 March 2006) – accessed 27 May 2011; Gujarat Mail/12901<br />
(<strong>in</strong>diarail<strong>in</strong>fo.com/tra<strong>in</strong>/570/298/60 – accessed 27 May 2011).<br />
123<br />
Mumbai Jaipur SF Special/0237 (<strong>in</strong>diarail<strong>in</strong>fo.com/tra<strong>in</strong>/7713/297/272 – accessed 27 May 2011).<br />
124<br />
Wikipedia: India – accessed 27 May 2011; Wikipedia: Government <strong>of</strong> India – accessed 27 May 2011;<br />
Our Parliament (parliament<strong>of</strong><strong>in</strong>dia.nic.<strong>in</strong>/Is/<strong>in</strong>tro/p1.htm – accessed 1 February 2012); Supreme Court<br />
<strong>of</strong> India (supremecourt<strong>of</strong><strong>in</strong>dia.nic.<strong>in</strong>/jurisdiction.htm – accessed 1 February 2012).
28<br />
tracks, or are electrocuted by <strong>the</strong> overhead electric wires when <strong>the</strong>y sit on <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong><br />
ro<strong>of</strong>s to avoid <strong>the</strong> crowds. 125<br />
I decided to wait until seven o‟clock, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> me<strong>an</strong>time I left <strong>the</strong> station <strong>an</strong>d went to a<br />
market nearby. The market was crowded with m<strong>an</strong>y Indi<strong>an</strong>s shopp<strong>in</strong>g. (p.330)<br />
Senapat Bapat Marg (Tulsi Pipe Road) is <strong>the</strong> road outside Dadar (Western) Railway<br />
Station. On exit<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> this station <strong>an</strong>d turn<strong>in</strong>g left <strong>an</strong>d after go<strong>in</strong>g about 300 meters<br />
along this road, one reaches <strong>the</strong> Dadar M<strong>an</strong>ish Market. 126 It is thus likely that this is <strong>the</strong><br />
market that Ronen refers to <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book.<br />
Dadar M<strong>an</strong>ish Market is open every day <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> week with <strong>the</strong> exception <strong>of</strong> Sunday. 127<br />
There are numerous cloth<strong>in</strong>g shops <strong>of</strong> all sorts <strong>in</strong> this market, with clo<strong>the</strong>s for men,<br />
wom<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d children 128 <strong>an</strong>d one also c<strong>an</strong> buy computer accessories <strong>the</strong>re. 129 It is also a<br />
wholesale market for fruit, vegetables <strong>an</strong>d flowers. 130 A visitor who was at this market<br />
early one morn<strong>in</strong>g wrote, “People <strong>of</strong> all ages, <strong>in</strong> colourful dresses were mill<strong>in</strong>g about,<br />
negotiat<strong>in</strong>g price <strong>an</strong>d pick<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> best fruit <strong>an</strong>d veg that <strong>the</strong>y could f<strong>in</strong>d. Dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />
night lorries arrive <strong>from</strong> all over India with <strong>the</strong> fresh produce. Men <strong>in</strong> shabby <strong>an</strong>d worn<br />
shirts, with scarfs <strong>in</strong> bright colours cover<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>ir heads were busy unload<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />
produce <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> backs <strong>of</strong> lorries. Eager h<strong>an</strong>ds receiv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> nylon bags <strong>an</strong>d carry<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>the</strong>m over to <strong>the</strong> sell<strong>in</strong>g ground. O<strong>the</strong>rs were load<strong>in</strong>g small v<strong>an</strong>s, even taxi cabs with<br />
<strong>the</strong> day‟s purchases to sell at o<strong>the</strong>r markets around Mumbai.” 131 Dadar M<strong>an</strong>ish Market<br />
is just one <strong>of</strong> more th<strong>an</strong> seventy markets <strong>in</strong> Mumbai. There is even <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r market <strong>in</strong><br />
Munbai with <strong>the</strong> name “M<strong>an</strong>ish Market”. Of <strong>the</strong> Mumbai markets “Frommer‟s India”<br />
writes “it‟s worthwhile to spend a couple <strong>of</strong> hours explor<strong>in</strong>g at least one, not so much<br />
for <strong>the</strong> shopp<strong>in</strong>g as for <strong>the</strong> hum<strong>an</strong> spectacle <strong>of</strong> it all.” 132 From a list <strong>of</strong> “import<strong>an</strong>t tips”<br />
given to <strong>the</strong> shopper <strong>in</strong> Dadar, one c<strong>an</strong> see how crowded this area is: “While <strong>the</strong> area is<br />
generally crowded at <strong>an</strong>y given time <strong>of</strong> day, it is best to avoid go<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>re after 5p.m. If<br />
children are <strong>in</strong> tow, keep a tight grip on <strong>the</strong>ir h<strong>an</strong>ds as <strong>the</strong>y c<strong>an</strong> easily get lost <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
crowds. Keep <strong>an</strong> equally tight grip <strong>of</strong> your h<strong>an</strong>dbags; ensure that <strong>the</strong> outer pockets are<br />
125<br />
Dadar (www.search.com/refernce/Dadar - accessed 26 May 2011); Mumbai Suburb<strong>an</strong> Railway, op.<br />
cit;, Wikipedia - Mumbai Suburb<strong>an</strong> Railway – accessed 29 May 2011.<br />
126<br />
Mumbai Map, p.7.<br />
127<br />
WikiAnswers (wiki.<strong>an</strong>swers.com/Q/What_days_is_<strong>the</strong>_m<strong>an</strong>ish_market_<strong>of</strong>_dadar_open –accessed<br />
29 May 2011)<br />
128<br />
Via Google – M<strong>an</strong>ish market – cloth<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
129<br />
www.asklaila.com/list<strong>in</strong>g/Mumbai/Dadar+West/RR+Enterprises/14fUXWsl/ - accessed 28 December<br />
2011.<br />
130<br />
Dadar M<strong>an</strong>ish Market 26 April 2011 (akhtarissak.blogspot.com/2011/04/dadar-m<strong>an</strong>ish-market-26th-<br />
april-2011.html – accessed 29 May 2011).<br />
131 Ibid.<br />
132 Frommer’s India, op. cit., p.130.
29<br />
properly zipped up.” 133 Aga<strong>in</strong>, because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> crowds at this market, Ronen felt that it<br />
was a safe place to pass <strong>the</strong> time until <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> left.<br />
I went <strong>in</strong>to a c<strong>of</strong>fee shop <strong>an</strong>d ordered a dr<strong>in</strong>k ... I sat <strong>the</strong>re for three m<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>an</strong>d suddenly<br />
I got a nervous sensation. I was frightened that maybe someone <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee shop would<br />
realize who I was or maybe <strong>the</strong> police would come look<strong>in</strong>g for me. ... I had to move<br />
const<strong>an</strong>tly <strong>an</strong>d not stop for a m<strong>in</strong>ute. (pp.330-31)<br />
The book does not state <strong>an</strong>y identification details <strong>of</strong> this “c<strong>of</strong>fee shop”. However, it is<br />
possible that Ronen looked for a place which was vegetari<strong>an</strong> s<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>an</strong>y kashrut<br />
concerns would have been m<strong>in</strong>imised. Although <strong>the</strong>re are a number <strong>of</strong> eateries <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
area <strong>of</strong> M<strong>an</strong>ish Market, it would seem <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> word<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book that <strong>the</strong> “c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />
shop” he went to was situated <strong>in</strong>side <strong>the</strong> market. There, <strong>the</strong>re is a snack bar situated on<br />
<strong>the</strong> ground floor <strong>of</strong> a build<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>an</strong>d it is open <strong>from</strong> n<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g until n<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
even<strong>in</strong>g on every day except Sunday. This snack bar states that it is pure vegetari<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d<br />
its menus are advertised as “fast food, Indi<strong>an</strong>, Punjabi, snacks”. It is possible that<br />
Ronen went to this snack bar, but it is <strong>of</strong> course by no me<strong>an</strong>s certa<strong>in</strong>. 134<br />
I had three hours to pass [until go<strong>in</strong>g to Dadar station at six o‟clock to buy a ticket for <strong>the</strong><br />
tra<strong>in</strong>]. ... It was f<strong>in</strong>ally six o‟clock <strong>an</strong>d I headed towards <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> station. At <strong>the</strong> exact<br />
moment I crossed <strong>the</strong> street I saw a large truck with <strong>the</strong> words „Mumbai Security‟ stop fifty<br />
meters away <strong>from</strong> me. The doors swung open <strong>an</strong>d dozens <strong>of</strong> police <strong>of</strong>ficers started pour<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> truck. ... Some explored <strong>the</strong> station <strong>an</strong>d some searched <strong>the</strong> market <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong><br />
surround<strong>in</strong>g streets ... They were look<strong>in</strong>g for me! (pp.332-33)<br />
At about six o‟clock Ronen went back along Senapati Bapat Marg until he reached<br />
opposite Dadar Western Railway Station <strong>an</strong>d he <strong>the</strong>n crossed this road <strong>in</strong> order to get<br />
to this station, 135 <strong>an</strong>d it was <strong>the</strong>n that he saw numerous members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local police<br />
force.<br />
The Mumbai Police, which is also known as <strong>the</strong> Brih<strong>an</strong>mumbai Police (<strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>se<br />
words appear on <strong>the</strong>ir logo) is <strong>the</strong> police force <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> Mumbai. It has <strong>the</strong> primary<br />
responsibilities <strong>of</strong> law enforcement <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>vestigation <strong>in</strong> Mumbai <strong>an</strong>d its motto<br />
“Sadrakṣaṇāya Khal<strong>an</strong>igrahaṇāya”, which appears <strong>in</strong> S<strong>an</strong>skrit on its logo, when<br />
tr<strong>an</strong>slated is “To protect <strong>the</strong> good <strong>an</strong>d to punish <strong>the</strong> evil”. It is said that although it is<br />
considered to be one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best police forces <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world for solv<strong>in</strong>g high pr<strong>of</strong>ile, high<br />
stakes crimes, it is also thought to be <strong>in</strong>fluenced by local politici<strong>an</strong>s. It has a large<br />
m<strong>an</strong>power <strong>of</strong> over 40,000 policemen <strong>of</strong> various r<strong>an</strong>ks <strong>an</strong>d has 89 police stations under<br />
its jurisdiction. Its m<strong>an</strong>y vehicles have <strong>the</strong> sign, <strong>in</strong> Marathi which is <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> l<strong>an</strong>guage<br />
spoken <strong>in</strong> Mumbai, “Mumbai Police”. It has more th<strong>an</strong> 20 units, which <strong>in</strong>clude Crime<br />
133<br />
Shopp<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Mumbai (www.mumbaispider.com/resources/2160-Shopp<strong>in</strong>g-Mumbai.aspx - accessed<br />
28 December 2011).<br />
134<br />
www.buzz<strong>in</strong>town.com/mumbai/restaur<strong>an</strong>t-***-snacks-bar/id--35710.html - accessed 30 May 2011<br />
135 Mumbai Map, p.7.
30<br />
Br<strong>an</strong>ch, Traffic Police, Narcotics Cell, Miss<strong>in</strong>g Persons Bureau <strong>an</strong>d Riot Control<br />
Police. Each unit has its own Comm<strong>an</strong>der. 136<br />
I saw that to my left was a small crowded alleyway which seemed to be a cont<strong>in</strong>uation <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> market. I quickly turned around <strong>an</strong>d headed <strong>in</strong> that direction. ... I cont<strong>in</strong>ued walk<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>an</strong>d suddenly I saw at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> alley was a checkpo<strong>in</strong>t <strong>an</strong>d police <strong>of</strong>ficers were<br />
check<strong>in</strong>g every passerby. I quickly turned around. ... But twenty meters ahead I saw two<br />
groups <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>ficers spread<strong>in</strong>g out across <strong>the</strong> alleyway com<strong>in</strong>g slowly towards me. ... I<br />
walked straight towards <strong>the</strong>m. ... I cont<strong>in</strong>ued to walk <strong>an</strong>d I <strong>the</strong>n passed <strong>the</strong>m. They didn‟t<br />
see me. (p.333)<br />
St<strong>an</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g outside Dadar Western Railway Station <strong>an</strong>d look<strong>in</strong>g across <strong>the</strong> road towards<br />
<strong>the</strong> left, one c<strong>an</strong> see a whole maze <strong>of</strong> alleyways between Dr. D‟Silva Road <strong>an</strong>d MC<br />
Jawle Marg (Dadar Road), <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y are situated about 150 metres to <strong>the</strong> right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Dadar M<strong>an</strong>ish Market. 137<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se alleyways is called Smruti Kunj 138 <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> it <strong>the</strong>re is a restaur<strong>an</strong>t which<br />
recently celebrated its centenary <strong>an</strong>d it describes itself as “<strong>the</strong> t<strong>in</strong>y hole-<strong>in</strong>-<strong>the</strong>-wall<br />
restaur<strong>an</strong>t; it is one <strong>of</strong> Mumbai‟s oldest surviv<strong>in</strong>g restaur<strong>an</strong>ts. 139<br />
Also <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se alleys is <strong>the</strong> Kirtikar Market, 140 which was built by <strong>the</strong> Pathare Prabhu.<br />
They are one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> H<strong>in</strong>du communities <strong>of</strong> Mumbai <strong>an</strong>d were amongst <strong>the</strong> earliest<br />
settlers <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> city. They were amongst <strong>the</strong> first <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> H<strong>in</strong>dus to adopt to British<br />
educational practice. They advocate widow re-marriage which was <strong>an</strong> act considered a<br />
taboo <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> orthodox H<strong>in</strong>du society at that time. 141<br />
There are also a large variety <strong>of</strong> shops <strong>in</strong> D‟Silva Road <strong>an</strong>d Jawle Marg. These <strong>in</strong>clude,<br />
amongst m<strong>an</strong>y o<strong>the</strong>rs, those sell<strong>in</strong>g clo<strong>the</strong>s, electronics, medical supplies, jewellery,<br />
stationery, <strong>of</strong>fice furniture <strong>an</strong>d household appli<strong>an</strong>ces. 142 Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, <strong>the</strong>se same two<br />
roads, have for m<strong>an</strong>y years been a place where illegal hawkers would sell <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
products, but <strong>the</strong> police <strong>an</strong>d local council lacked <strong>the</strong> will to stop <strong>the</strong>m. 143<br />
It c<strong>an</strong> thus be seen that <strong>an</strong>y time <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day <strong>the</strong>re are crowds <strong>in</strong> this area <strong>an</strong>d this is<br />
especially so <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g hours, <strong>the</strong> time when Ronen was <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
136<br />
Wikipedia: Mumbai Police – accessed 23 February 2010.<br />
137<br />
Mumbai Map, p.7.<br />
138<br />
Google Maps.<br />
139<br />
khojguru.com/mumbai/***-restaur<strong>an</strong>t-restaur<strong>an</strong>t-<strong>in</strong>-dadar-w-mumbai_uqs3y - accessed 30 May<br />
2011; www.<strong>in</strong>di<strong>an</strong>express.com/news/<strong>in</strong>-100th-year-mama-k<strong>an</strong>es-<strong>in</strong>-for-a-menu-cha/577236/ -<br />
accessed 30 May 2011.<br />
140<br />
Google Maps.<br />
141<br />
Wikipedia: Pathare Prabhu – accessed 31 May 2011.<br />
142<br />
via Google – Mumbai - D’Silva Road <strong>an</strong>d Jawge Marg.<br />
143<br />
“For those <strong>in</strong> Dadar, hawkers are a perpetual menace”, The Times <strong>of</strong> India, 10 August 2005;<br />
“Merch<strong>an</strong>ts asks BMC to remove D’Silva Road hawkers”, The Times <strong>of</strong> India, 19 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2002.
31<br />
It would seem <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> description given <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book, that <strong>the</strong> police checkpo<strong>in</strong>t at “<strong>the</strong><br />
end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> alley” was at <strong>the</strong> junction with <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> road Saraswatibai Joshi Marg or a<br />
little before it. On see<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> police, Ronen made <strong>an</strong> about turn <strong>an</strong>d cont<strong>in</strong>ued back<br />
towards <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> road Senapati Bapat Marg, 144 without <strong>the</strong> police notic<strong>in</strong>g him.<br />
I left <strong>the</strong> alleyway <strong>an</strong>d returned to <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> street next to <strong>the</strong> station. ... [On <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong><br />
street] I saw a taxi wait<strong>in</strong>g at <strong>the</strong> side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road. I jumped <strong>in</strong>side <strong>an</strong>d told <strong>the</strong> driver ...<br />
<strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> a different tra<strong>in</strong> station located near <strong>the</strong> city‟s [Mumbai‟s] exit <strong>an</strong>d I told <strong>the</strong><br />
driver to go <strong>the</strong>re. (p.334)<br />
At Dadar Railway station, <strong>the</strong> two l<strong>in</strong>es <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Mumbai suburb<strong>an</strong> railways, namely <strong>the</strong><br />
Western L<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Central L<strong>in</strong>e, converge. The Western L<strong>in</strong>e which is <strong>of</strong> length 120<br />
kilometres goes through <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn suburbs <strong>of</strong> Mumbai <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>n exits <strong>the</strong> city;<br />
stations on this l<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong>clude B<strong>an</strong>dra, Borivali, Vasal Road, Virar, Palghar <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> f<strong>in</strong>al<br />
station is Dah<strong>an</strong>u Road. The Central L<strong>in</strong>e goes <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> easterly direction <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>n<br />
br<strong>an</strong>ches <strong>of</strong>f <strong>in</strong>to two l<strong>in</strong>es, one <strong>in</strong> a north-east direction to Kasara station <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
<strong>in</strong> a south-east direction to Khopoli station, both <strong>of</strong> which stations are outside <strong>the</strong> city<br />
<strong>of</strong> Mumbai; stations before <strong>the</strong> br<strong>an</strong>ch<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>f <strong>in</strong>clude Sion, Th<strong>an</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d Kaly<strong>an</strong>. 145<br />
The book does not give <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> railway station that Ronen requested <strong>the</strong> taxi<br />
driver to go to. It just states “located near <strong>the</strong> city‟s exit”. Geographically, <strong>the</strong>re is<br />
Mumbai City <strong>an</strong>d adjo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g it <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> north is Mumbai Suburb<strong>an</strong> District <strong>an</strong>d outside<br />
that area is Th<strong>an</strong>e District <strong>an</strong>d Navi Mumbai. Taken literally, a station near <strong>the</strong> exit <strong>of</strong><br />
Mumbai City could be, for example, Mahim or B<strong>an</strong>dra.<br />
[Follow<strong>in</strong>g some thought] I was afraid that <strong>the</strong>re would be more <strong>of</strong>ficers search<strong>in</strong>g for me<br />
at <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r tra<strong>in</strong> stations ... I ...[<strong>in</strong>structed] <strong>the</strong> driver ... „F<strong>in</strong>d me a bus station with<br />
busses [sic] to <strong>the</strong> North [<strong>of</strong> India]‟, He cont<strong>in</strong>ued driv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d we found a tour comp<strong>an</strong>y<br />
which operated bus l<strong>in</strong>es. There was a bus filled with tourists which was about to leave for<br />
Goa [which is south <strong>of</strong> Mumbai.]. ... The driver went to ask <strong>the</strong> travel agent where we<br />
could f<strong>in</strong>d a bus head<strong>in</strong>g north <strong>an</strong>d he directed us to <strong>an</strong> area called Sim [Sion] where <strong>the</strong>re<br />
were m<strong>an</strong>y buses leav<strong>in</strong>g for <strong>the</strong> north. I asked <strong>the</strong> driver to po<strong>in</strong>t to <strong>the</strong> direction <strong>of</strong> Sim to<br />
make sure we would not return to <strong>the</strong> search area. It was towards <strong>the</strong> city exit so we<br />
headed <strong>of</strong>f for Sim <strong>an</strong>d arrived <strong>the</strong>re twenty m<strong>in</strong>utes later. It was already seven o‟clock <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g. (pp.334-335)<br />
The details given here <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book are vague <strong>an</strong>d thus <strong>the</strong>y beg a number <strong>of</strong> questions.<br />
At what stage was <strong>the</strong> taxi driver <strong>in</strong>structed by Ronen to ch<strong>an</strong>ge route <strong>an</strong>d go to a bus<br />
station with buses to <strong>the</strong> north? Where was this travel agency situated? Which route<br />
was taken to reach Sion?<br />
There was one hour, namely <strong>from</strong> 6 to 7 o‟clock <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> time he returned to Dadar<br />
Railway Station until he arrived <strong>in</strong> Sion. Let us try <strong>an</strong>d reconstruct what Ronen did<br />
144 Mumbai Map, p.24.<br />
145 Indi<strong>an</strong> Railway Atlas, op. cit., p.35; Mumbai Suburb<strong>an</strong> Railway, op. cit.
32<br />
dur<strong>in</strong>g this hour. At six o‟clock, he saw <strong>the</strong> Mumbai police arriv<strong>in</strong>g at Dadar Station,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d he accord<strong>in</strong>gly hurried back to <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> M<strong>an</strong>ish Market. After m<strong>an</strong>ag<strong>in</strong>g to<br />
avoid <strong>the</strong> police checkups <strong>the</strong>re, he succeeded <strong>in</strong> return<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> road <strong>an</strong>d he<br />
boarded a taxi. One could estimate this to have taken about 15-20 m<strong>in</strong>utes.<br />
He <strong>the</strong>n <strong>in</strong>structed <strong>the</strong> taxi to go to a station located near <strong>the</strong> city‟s exit. It is possible<br />
that <strong>the</strong> taxi went along Senapati Bapat Marg, s<strong>in</strong>ce this road runs parallel to <strong>the</strong><br />
Western L<strong>in</strong>e railway track. 146 At some period dur<strong>in</strong>g this journey, he decided that it<br />
was safer to take a bus, ra<strong>the</strong>r th<strong>an</strong> a tra<strong>in</strong>, northwards, s<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong>re were sure to be<br />
police checks for him at all <strong>the</strong> Mumbai stations. He <strong>the</strong>refore <strong>in</strong>structed <strong>the</strong> taxi to f<strong>in</strong>d<br />
such a suitable bus. As we shall see, that <strong>in</strong> order to fit <strong>in</strong> with <strong>the</strong> time schedule given<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book, it is possible that he came to this conclusion somewhere <strong>in</strong> or approach<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> B<strong>an</strong>dra. 147<br />
The taxi driver looked for a tour comp<strong>an</strong>y <strong>an</strong>d found one where a bus with tourists was<br />
about to leave for Goa. In <strong>the</strong> Kalar Nagar area <strong>of</strong> B<strong>an</strong>dra East, <strong>the</strong>re is a tour comp<strong>an</strong>y<br />
which has <strong>an</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice <strong>the</strong>re. 148<br />
There are numerous bus comp<strong>an</strong>ies who run bus l<strong>in</strong>es between Mumbai <strong>an</strong>d Goa. M<strong>an</strong>y<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m have a board<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>in</strong> B<strong>an</strong>dra. Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se buses beg<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir journeys <strong>from</strong><br />
Borivali, which is <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> north <strong>of</strong> Mumbai, or <strong>from</strong> Dhobi Talao, which is <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> south<br />
<strong>of</strong> this city, or <strong>from</strong> Mumbai Central. These buses are also <strong>of</strong> different degrees <strong>of</strong><br />
comfort. Some are Volvo, some are air-conditioned, some have sleep<strong>in</strong>g berths, whilst<br />
o<strong>the</strong>rs have slumber seats. 149<br />
Goa is <strong>the</strong> smallest by area <strong>of</strong> India‟s 28 states <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> fourth smallest by population.<br />
Per capita it is <strong>the</strong> richest <strong>of</strong> India‟s states. It is located south <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong><br />
Maharashtra (where Mumbai is situated). For about 450 years it was a Portuguese<br />
territory. In 1961, <strong>the</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> army conquered it <strong>an</strong>d <strong>an</strong>nexed it to India. Goa is<br />
renowned for its beaches <strong>an</strong>d is visited by numerous tourists each year. 150 This <strong>in</strong>cludes<br />
m<strong>an</strong>y young Israelis after <strong>the</strong>ir army service <strong>an</strong>d some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m visit <strong>the</strong> Chabad House<br />
<strong>in</strong> Mumbai on <strong>the</strong>ir way to Goa. 151<br />
146<br />
Mumbai Map, pp.24, 25, 33.<br />
147<br />
Ibid., p.41.<br />
148<br />
www.askme.com/mumbai/b<strong>an</strong>dra-east-travel-tours-***-tours-travels/list<strong>in</strong>g/70142859918 -<br />
accessed 28 December 2011.<br />
149<br />
Mumbai to Goa Bus Tickets Book<strong>in</strong>g (www.makemytrip.com/bus-tickets/mumbai-goa-book<strong>in</strong>g.html<br />
- accessed 31 May 2011); Travel to Goa by Air-Conditioned Luxury Volvo make coaches<br />
(www.amchogoa.com/volvo-bus-service-<strong>from</strong>-mumbai-to-goa.htm - accessed 28 December 2011).<br />
150<br />
Wikipedia: Goa – accessed 31 May 2011.<br />
151 Wikipedia: Narim<strong>an</strong> House – accessed 27 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012.
33<br />
Let us now try <strong>an</strong>d reconstruct a possible route that this taxi took. The dist<strong>an</strong>ce by road<br />
<strong>from</strong> Dadar Railway Station to Kala Nagar is about 6 kilometres <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> journey time is<br />
about 13 m<strong>in</strong>utes. 152 The route <strong>of</strong> this journey beg<strong>in</strong>s along Senapti Bapat Marg; one<br />
<strong>the</strong>n cont<strong>in</strong>ues along Mahim Sion L<strong>in</strong>k Road <strong>an</strong>d turns left to Sion B<strong>an</strong>dra L<strong>in</strong>k Road<br />
where one cont<strong>in</strong>ues until one reaches Kala Nagar. 153<br />
There are three ways to travel <strong>from</strong> Kala Nagar to Sion. In one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m, one starts by<br />
travell<strong>in</strong>g northwards, namely <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> direction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> exit <strong>from</strong> Mumbai. The fact that<br />
<strong>the</strong> driver po<strong>in</strong>ted <strong>in</strong> that direction <strong>in</strong>dicates that this was <strong>the</strong> route <strong>the</strong> taxi took. For<br />
this route, one travels <strong>in</strong> a north-easterly direction along B<strong>an</strong>dra Kurla Complex Road<br />
(MMRDA Road) <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>n turns a very sharp right <strong>an</strong>d cont<strong>in</strong>ues <strong>in</strong> a sou<strong>the</strong>rly<br />
direction along Lal Bahadur Shastri Road (Agra Road) until one reaches Sion. 154 (The<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r two routes beg<strong>in</strong> by travell<strong>in</strong>g southwards, namely <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> direction <strong>of</strong> deep <strong>in</strong>to<br />
Mumbai. 155 ) The travel time <strong>from</strong> Kalar Nagar to Sion on this (first stated) route is<br />
about 14 m<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> dist<strong>an</strong>ce by road about 7 kilometres 156 <strong>an</strong>d we c<strong>an</strong> assume<br />
that this was <strong>the</strong> approximate time taken for <strong>the</strong> taxi to go between <strong>the</strong>se two po<strong>in</strong>ts.<br />
When allow<strong>in</strong>g for <strong>the</strong> time for <strong>the</strong> ch<strong>an</strong>ge <strong>in</strong> route (namely, <strong>in</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> go<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>an</strong><br />
outly<strong>in</strong>g tra<strong>in</strong> station, go<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>stead to a bus station) <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> time taken to make<br />
<strong>in</strong>quiries <strong>of</strong> a bus to <strong>the</strong> north, <strong>the</strong> total time <strong>of</strong> one hour (<strong>from</strong> 6 to 7 o‟clock) seems<br />
reasonable.<br />
In conclusion, one c<strong>an</strong>not however exclude o<strong>the</strong>r solutions for <strong>the</strong> route <strong>of</strong> this taxi<br />
journey <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> travel agency visited.<br />
There were m<strong>an</strong>y travel agents <strong>the</strong>re [<strong>in</strong> Sion] <strong>an</strong>d … I found a comp<strong>an</strong>y that operated bus<br />
l<strong>in</strong>es to Gujarat with a bus scheduled to depart for Amdabar [Ahmadabad] at eight thirty<br />
[that even<strong>in</strong>g], arriv<strong>in</strong>g at seven thirty <strong>the</strong> next morn<strong>in</strong>g. It cost five hundred Rupees.<br />
(p.335)<br />
Numerous tours <strong>an</strong>d travels agents are to be found <strong>in</strong> Sion. Although most are open for<br />
about n<strong>in</strong>e hours each day <strong>an</strong>d are closed on Sundays, <strong>the</strong>re are a few who are open for<br />
24 hours a day, seven days a week. The rat<strong>in</strong>gs by users for <strong>the</strong>se Sion travels agents<br />
vary <strong>from</strong> “excellent” to “average”. 157 One reviewer wrote, “Very good travel agency<br />
for <strong>an</strong>y k<strong>in</strong>d <strong>of</strong> travel. Personal approach <strong>an</strong>d hassle free job.” 158 For a different travel<br />
agency, a reviewer wrote, “They are govt. authorized travel agency. My passport was<br />
submitted on time <strong>an</strong>d I got it <strong>in</strong> 28 days, door delivery, timely update was given to me<br />
152<br />
Google Maps - get directions.<br />
153<br />
Ibid.; Mumbai Map, pp.25, 33, 41.<br />
154<br />
Ibid. ; Ibid. pp.41, 42, 49, 42.<br />
155<br />
Google Maps – get directions.<br />
156<br />
Ibid.<br />
157<br />
via Google – travel agents <strong>in</strong> Sion Mumbai.<br />
158<br />
Mumbai.justdial.com/***-travels_sion_Mumbai_kyvivelFPrsq.htm – accessed 1 June 2011.
34<br />
<strong>an</strong>d I found <strong>the</strong>m to be <strong>the</strong> best travel agency so far for <strong>the</strong>ir good work <strong>an</strong>d good<br />
service to <strong>the</strong>ir customer.” 159<br />
There are a large number <strong>of</strong> buses which run each day between Mumbai <strong>an</strong>d<br />
Ahmadabad. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se buses beg<strong>in</strong> at Mumbai Central but have no fur<strong>the</strong>r<br />
board<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>ts <strong>in</strong> Mumbai, whilst o<strong>the</strong>rs have additional board<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>ts, which on<br />
some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> buses is at Sion, <strong>an</strong>d a few even beg<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir journey <strong>in</strong> Sion. 160 There is<br />
also <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>terstate bus depot adjacent to Sion Circle. 161<br />
I w<strong>an</strong>dered around amongst <strong>the</strong> stores <strong>an</strong>d restaur<strong>an</strong>ts [<strong>in</strong> Sion] <strong>an</strong>d bought some<br />
b<strong>an</strong><strong>an</strong>as, apples <strong>an</strong>d cigarettes. (p.335)<br />
In <strong>the</strong> immediate area <strong>of</strong> Sion Circle are to be found a large number <strong>of</strong> stores which sell<br />
a variety <strong>of</strong> products, such as men‟s, women‟s <strong>an</strong>d kid‟s footwear, furnish<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>an</strong>d<br />
carpets, novelty stores, <strong>an</strong>d computers <strong>an</strong>d laptops. There are also shops sell<strong>in</strong>g cakes,<br />
sweets <strong>an</strong>d dried fruits. 162<br />
Numerous restaur<strong>an</strong>ts are also to be found <strong>in</strong> this immediate area <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y serve all<br />
m<strong>an</strong>ner <strong>of</strong> foods, both vegetari<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d non-vegetari<strong>an</strong>. 163 One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se restaur<strong>an</strong>t‟s<br />
specialty is South Indi<strong>an</strong>, Ch<strong>in</strong>ese <strong>an</strong>d Punjabi foods “<strong>an</strong>d special mention must be<br />
made about <strong>the</strong> CHAATS <strong>an</strong>d MINI MEALS”. On this restaur<strong>an</strong>t a reviewer wrote,<br />
“The Southy stuff served with Sambhar <strong>in</strong> small copper kadhais <strong>an</strong>d red <strong>an</strong>d white<br />
coconut chutney. I tried <strong>the</strong> Rava Masala Dosa which was really yummy, no excess oil<br />
<strong>an</strong>d tasted perfect. I just hope <strong>the</strong>y wouldn‟t make <strong>the</strong> Sambhar sweet.” He added that<br />
at peak times this restaur<strong>an</strong>t is very crowded, so much so, that one must expect to wait<br />
15-20 m<strong>in</strong>utes. 164 Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> restaur<strong>an</strong>ts even <strong>of</strong>fer a home delivery service. 165<br />
The book gives no <strong>in</strong>dication where Ronen bought <strong>the</strong> fruit <strong>an</strong>d cigarettes. It could<br />
possibly be <strong>in</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> restaur<strong>an</strong>ts, or <strong>from</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> m<strong>an</strong>y stores <strong>in</strong> Sion Circle. In<br />
addition, <strong>the</strong>re is a shopp<strong>in</strong>g centre at <strong>the</strong> junction <strong>of</strong> Road No. 8 <strong>an</strong>d Road No. 29<br />
which is just a few m<strong>in</strong>utes‟ walk <strong>from</strong> Sion Circle 166 <strong>an</strong>d, just a little fur<strong>the</strong>r out at <strong>the</strong><br />
junction <strong>of</strong> Road No. 8 <strong>an</strong>d Jaish<strong>an</strong>kar Yagnik Road (Fl<strong>an</strong>k Road West), <strong>the</strong>re is a<br />
159<br />
www.justdial.com/Mumbai/***-travels-<strong>an</strong>d-cargo-%3Cnear%3E-Sion/022PXX22-XX22-<br />
000352335757-G3X5 - accessed 28 December 2011.<br />
160<br />
via Google – Mumbai to Ahmedabad – bus.<br />
161<br />
Mumbai Map, p.34.<br />
162<br />
via Google – Sion circle – shops.<br />
163<br />
via Google – Sion circle – restaur<strong>an</strong>ts.<br />
164<br />
www.mouthshut.com/review/Central-Pen<strong>in</strong>sula-Sion-Bombay-Mumbai-review-susqstsnp - accessed<br />
2 June 2011.<br />
165 www.onyomo.com/mumbai/200135827-durga-restaur<strong>an</strong>t-sion - accessed 2 June 2011.<br />
166 Mumbai Map, p.34.
35<br />
Bazaar, which has a co-operative departmental store. 167 Ronen was w<strong>an</strong>der<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> this<br />
area for <strong>an</strong> hour <strong>an</strong>d a half <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>refore had plenty <strong>of</strong> time to go to <strong>the</strong>se areas or even<br />
fur<strong>the</strong>r afield for <strong>the</strong>se purchases.<br />
At exactly eight thirty a new luxury bus pulled up. I got on <strong>the</strong> bus … <strong>an</strong>d was amazed at<br />
<strong>the</strong> luxury! … I le<strong>an</strong>ed back <strong>an</strong>d felt like a millionaire. (p.335)<br />
There are numerous firms who run buses between Mumbai <strong>an</strong>d Ahmadabad. Some <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>se firms are private firms. In addition to <strong>the</strong> private firms, <strong>the</strong>re are also public road<br />
tr<strong>an</strong>sport corporations runn<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>terstate services. As with <strong>the</strong> buses runn<strong>in</strong>g between<br />
Mumbai <strong>an</strong>d Goa, <strong>the</strong>re are different degrees <strong>of</strong> comfort on <strong>the</strong> private buses runn<strong>in</strong>g<br />
between Mumbai <strong>an</strong>d Ahmadabad; some are air-conditioned whilst o<strong>the</strong>rs are not;<br />
some have sleepers, o<strong>the</strong>rs semi-sleepers (chairs which tilt backwards), whilst o<strong>the</strong>rs<br />
have just seats. As to be expected, <strong>the</strong> fares on <strong>the</strong> public buses (<strong>an</strong>d almost certa<strong>in</strong>ly<br />
<strong>the</strong> degree <strong>of</strong> comfort) are lower th<strong>an</strong> those on <strong>the</strong> private firms. 168<br />
After a year <strong>an</strong>d a half <strong>in</strong> jail with its horrendous overcrowded conditions, Ronen could<br />
really appreciate a luxury bus, that he could honestly say that he “felt like a<br />
millionaire”.<br />
The bus was … mostly filled with Indi<strong>an</strong> bus<strong>in</strong>essmen. After a few m<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>the</strong> bus pulled<br />
out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> station [<strong>in</strong> Sion]. (pp.335-36)<br />
The location <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> board<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>ts <strong>in</strong> Sion might depend on which firm‟s bus is<br />
selected <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> locations <strong>in</strong>clude cafes, hotels, travel agents <strong>an</strong>d possibly also <strong>the</strong> bus<br />
station. 169 It is not clear whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> word “station” which is used <strong>in</strong> Ronen‟s book<br />
me<strong>an</strong>s <strong>the</strong> Sion Bus Station or one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se various firms‟ board<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>ts.<br />
Occasionally police <strong>of</strong>ficers came on <strong>the</strong> bus <strong>an</strong>d ask passengers to present <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
passports. … [This caused Ronen to be afraid.] … I said <strong>the</strong> prayer for wayfarers more<br />
<strong>in</strong>tently th<strong>an</strong> I ever had before. (pp.336-37)<br />
S<strong>in</strong>ce most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> passengers on this journey were Indi<strong>an</strong>s why should <strong>the</strong>y be asked to<br />
produce a passport? Maybe it was some sort <strong>of</strong> identification that <strong>the</strong>y had to show.<br />
When beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g a journey, one has to recite <strong>the</strong> “Prayer <strong>the</strong> Wayfarers”. In this prayer,<br />
one asks <strong>the</strong> Almighty that <strong>the</strong> desired dest<strong>in</strong>ation will be reached safely <strong>an</strong>d that one<br />
should be rescued <strong>from</strong> <strong>an</strong>y enemy, ambush, robbers <strong>an</strong>d wild beasts which one might<br />
encounter on <strong>the</strong> journey. One only has to say this prayer once <strong>in</strong> a particular day <strong>an</strong>d it<br />
167<br />
Ibid. ; www.asklaila.com/list<strong>in</strong>g/Mumbai/Sion+East/***+Bazaar+Cooperative+Departmental+Store/5a6HjTB2/<br />
- accessed 2 June 2011.<br />
168<br />
Gujarat to Mumbai by road (www.<strong>in</strong>diatr<strong>an</strong>sit.com/<strong>in</strong>dia_bus_routes/luxury-bus-gujarat-<br />
mumbai.html - accessed 2 June 2011).<br />
169 via Google – Mumbai to Ahmedabad – bus.
36<br />
should preferably be recited dur<strong>in</strong>g about <strong>the</strong> first four kilometres after leav<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> city<br />
limits. 170 Ronen was <strong>in</strong> far more <strong>of</strong> a d<strong>an</strong>ger th<strong>an</strong> most travelers <strong>an</strong>d one c<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong>refore<br />
underst<strong>an</strong>d why he recited it more <strong>in</strong>tently th<strong>an</strong> he had ever said it before.<br />
[After about four hours travel] <strong>the</strong> bus f<strong>in</strong>ally stopped next to <strong>the</strong> guardhouse [at <strong>the</strong> border<br />
between <strong>the</strong> states <strong>of</strong> Maharashtra <strong>an</strong>d Gujarat] on <strong>the</strong> side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road. The driver got <strong>of</strong>f<br />
<strong>the</strong> bus with all <strong>the</strong> receipts with <strong>the</strong> names <strong>of</strong> all <strong>the</strong> passengers <strong>an</strong>d brought <strong>the</strong>m to <strong>the</strong><br />
border guards. … After a few m<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>the</strong> driver returned to <strong>the</strong> bus alone … <strong>an</strong>d we<br />
cont<strong>in</strong>ued our journey … <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> Gujarat State. (p.337)<br />
The details given <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book on <strong>the</strong> cross<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>terstate border raise m<strong>an</strong>y<br />
questions. It states that <strong>the</strong> driver gave <strong>the</strong> border guards a list <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> names <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
passengers. The book would surely have stated if Ronen had been asked his name when<br />
buy<strong>in</strong>g his bus ticket <strong>an</strong>d if so, did he give a fictitious name, s<strong>in</strong>ce it would be very<br />
unadvisable to give his own name. In <strong>an</strong>y case, one does not have to produce <strong>an</strong><br />
identity card or passport to cross a state border with<strong>in</strong> India. 171 Sometimes one has to<br />
pay a tax to br<strong>in</strong>g a vehicle <strong>in</strong>to a state. 172 Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, customs duties have to be paid<br />
for certa<strong>in</strong> goods if <strong>the</strong>y are tr<strong>an</strong>sferred across states. 173 Any border checks would thus<br />
be for customs charges. In addition, <strong>in</strong> Gujarat alcohol is forbidden except for non-<br />
Indi<strong>an</strong>s. This is <strong>the</strong> only state <strong>in</strong> India with such a law. 174 As a result, it is smuggled <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> neighbour<strong>in</strong>g states which <strong>in</strong>clude Maharashtra. 175 Even truckloads <strong>of</strong> alcohol<br />
are smuggled <strong>in</strong>! 176 It was probably connected with <strong>the</strong>se taxes, customs duties <strong>an</strong>d<br />
alcohol smuggl<strong>in</strong>g that <strong>the</strong> bus driver was speak<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> border <strong>of</strong>ficials. Due to<br />
mental stra<strong>in</strong>, Ronen obviously thought <strong>the</strong> worst <strong>an</strong>d that <strong>the</strong>y were check<strong>in</strong>g who <strong>the</strong><br />
passengers <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> bus were.<br />
The location <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> border between <strong>the</strong> states <strong>of</strong> Maharashtra <strong>an</strong>d Gujarat is just before<br />
Bhilad, which is on <strong>the</strong> Gujarat side. Bhilad is a village whose population is about<br />
7,000 <strong>in</strong>habit<strong>an</strong>ts <strong>an</strong>d it is situated with<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> district <strong>of</strong> Valsad. It is named after a<br />
small nearby hill called Bhilkhai hill. This village even has its own railway station <strong>an</strong>d<br />
this is also utilised by those liv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> nearby villages. S<strong>in</strong>ce it is surrounded on all sides<br />
by <strong>in</strong>dustrial areas, it is very popular for residential purposes. 177<br />
170<br />
Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 110:4, 5, 7.<br />
171<br />
Acknowledgements to “nyc<strong>an</strong>k” via IndiaMike for <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>formation.<br />
172<br />
Acknowledgements to “obione980” via IndiaMike for <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>formation.<br />
173<br />
Acknowledgments to Wikipedia Reference Desk – Hum<strong>an</strong>ities for <strong>in</strong>formation.<br />
174<br />
Dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Ahmedabad (travel.myyog.com/question/42701943-Dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g-<strong>in</strong>-Ahmedabad - accessed<br />
29 December 2011).<br />
175<br />
Prohibition – Gujarat’s worst kept secret. (www.rediff.com/election/2002/dec/11guj4.htm -<br />
accessed 5 June 2011).<br />
176<br />
Not so dry <strong>in</strong> dry Gujarat (www.mer<strong>in</strong>ews.com/article/not-so-dry-<strong>in</strong>-dry-gujarat/206.shtml -<br />
accessed 5 June 2011).<br />
177 Wikipedia : Bhilad – accessed 3 June 2011.
37<br />
The journey by road <strong>from</strong> Mumbai to Ahmadabad goes almost entirely along National<br />
Highway 8. The total extent <strong>of</strong> this Highway is <strong>from</strong> Mumbai, <strong>the</strong> f<strong>in</strong><strong>an</strong>cial capital <strong>of</strong><br />
India, to New Delhi, <strong>the</strong> federal capital. Its total length is nearly 1,400 kilometres. The<br />
first 550 kilometres <strong>of</strong> this highway is <strong>from</strong> Mumbai to Ahmadabad. In <strong>the</strong> stretch <strong>of</strong><br />
Highway 8 with<strong>in</strong> Mumbai, it is popularly known as <strong>the</strong> “Western Express<br />
Highway”. 178 On <strong>the</strong> portion between Mumbai <strong>an</strong>d Ahmadabad, <strong>the</strong> National Highway<br />
8 goes through a large number <strong>of</strong> small cities <strong>an</strong>d towns. These <strong>in</strong>clude Kasa Khurd,<br />
Vapi, Chikhli, Bharuch <strong>an</strong>d Vasad. 179 The various settlements on this route are on <strong>the</strong><br />
whole spread out <strong>an</strong>d each one is tens <strong>of</strong> kilometres <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> neighbor<strong>in</strong>g settlement. 180<br />
This National Highway 8, is just one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> numerous highways <strong>in</strong> India. They are<br />
ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>ed by <strong>the</strong> National Highways Authority <strong>of</strong> India <strong>an</strong>d each Highway has been<br />
designated by a number – <strong>the</strong> Mumbai-New Delhi Highway as number 8. The majority<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se Highways are just two l<strong>an</strong>es wide, namely, one <strong>in</strong> each direction. However, <strong>in</strong><br />
more developed areas, <strong>the</strong>y may broaden <strong>in</strong>to four l<strong>an</strong>es <strong>an</strong>d closer to big cities, even to<br />
as m<strong>an</strong>y as eight l<strong>an</strong>es. Although <strong>the</strong> Highways <strong>in</strong> India are only about two per cent <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> total road network, <strong>the</strong>y <strong>in</strong> fact carry nearly 40 per cent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> total road traffic. 181<br />
One might mention that <strong>in</strong> addition to <strong>the</strong> National Highways, India has also begun to<br />
construct National Expressways, which are usually four l<strong>an</strong>es wide. The first one,<br />
which was opened <strong>in</strong> 2004, <strong>an</strong>d goes <strong>from</strong> Vadodara to Ahmadabad, is about 100<br />
kilometres long, <strong>an</strong>d is, on part <strong>of</strong> its route parallel with National Highway 8. When<br />
travell<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> Mumbai to Ahmadabad, one c<strong>an</strong> tr<strong>an</strong>sfer <strong>from</strong> National Highway 8 to<br />
this Expressway 1, <strong>an</strong>d shorten <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> one‟s journey by about <strong>an</strong> hour <strong>an</strong>d a half. 182<br />
The bus travelled through dark forests, far away <strong>from</strong> urb<strong>an</strong> life. (p.338)<br />
There are m<strong>an</strong>y areas <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Gujarat <strong>in</strong> which <strong>the</strong>re are forests, some <strong>of</strong> which<br />
are classed as dense forests; <strong>the</strong>se areas <strong>in</strong>clude Bharuch, Surat <strong>an</strong>d Valsad. 183 It was<br />
presumably through <strong>the</strong>se forest areas that <strong>the</strong> bus that Ronen travelled on <strong>from</strong><br />
Mumbai to Ahmadabad travelled.<br />
We reached Amdabar [Ahmadabad] early <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g. (p.338)<br />
178 Wikipedia: National Highway 8 (India) – accessed 5 June 2011; Google Maps – get directions.<br />
179 National Highway No. 8 (www.maps<strong>of</strong><strong>in</strong>dia.com/driv<strong>in</strong>g-directions-maps/nh8-driv<strong>in</strong>g-directions-<br />
map. html - 3 June 2011).<br />
180 Google Maps – get directions.<br />
181 Wikipedia: List <strong>of</strong> National Highways <strong>in</strong> India – accessed 5 June 2011.<br />
182 Wikipedia: Ahmedabad Vadodara Expressway – accessed 4 February 2012.<br />
183 A4 District Wise Forest Cover (vfor.nic.<strong>in</strong>/fsi/sfr97/A4.html – accessed 10 March 2011).
38<br />
The duration <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bus journey is between between Mumbai <strong>an</strong>d Ahmadabad is about<br />
9 –14 hours. 184 The book states that <strong>the</strong>y departed <strong>from</strong> Sion <strong>in</strong> Mumbai at eight thirty<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g. Thus <strong>the</strong>y arrived <strong>in</strong> Ahmadabad “early <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g”. On that<br />
Wednesday, 28 September, sunrise <strong>in</strong> Ahmadabad was just before 6.30 <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
morn<strong>in</strong>g 185 <strong>an</strong>d thus it would be reasonably light soon after six o‟ clock.<br />
The book did not state where exactly <strong>in</strong> Ahmadabad Ronen alighted <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> bus.<br />
There are <strong>in</strong> fact a number <strong>of</strong> bus stops (for example: Ankur, Gulab Tower,<br />
Laxm<strong>in</strong>aray<strong>an</strong> Nagar, Wadaj) <strong>an</strong>d bus stations (for example: AMTS Nava Vadaj, Lal<br />
Darwaja, Naroda, Vasna) <strong>in</strong> different parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city (although it is unlikely that <strong>an</strong><br />
<strong>in</strong>terstate bus whose route is Mumbai to Ahmadabad will go to <strong>the</strong> parts <strong>of</strong> Ahmadabad<br />
where some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se bus stops are situated). 186 S<strong>in</strong>ce Ronen <strong>in</strong>tended cont<strong>in</strong>u<strong>in</strong>g his<br />
journey as quickly as possible, it is likely that he alighted close to Ahmadabad Railway<br />
Station or <strong>the</strong> Central Bus Station. (Incidentally, adjacent to <strong>the</strong> Central Bus Station<br />
<strong>the</strong>re is a leprosy hospital. 187 )<br />
Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> residents <strong>of</strong> Amdabar [Ahmadabad] <strong>the</strong> capital city <strong>of</strong> Gujarat are Muslim.<br />
(p.339)<br />
The city <strong>of</strong> Ahmadabad was founded <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> year 1411 <strong>an</strong>d is named after its founder<br />
Sult<strong>an</strong> Ahmad Shah. The city is renowned as a great textile <strong>an</strong>d commercial centre <strong>an</strong>d<br />
is referred to as <strong>the</strong> “M<strong>an</strong>chester <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> East”. It is a prosperous, thriv<strong>in</strong>g city <strong>an</strong>d is <strong>the</strong><br />
largest <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Gujarat <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> seventh largest <strong>in</strong> India. It has a population <strong>of</strong><br />
over four million <strong>in</strong>habit<strong>an</strong>ts <strong>an</strong>d is <strong>the</strong> fastest grow<strong>in</strong>g city <strong>in</strong> India. The <strong>of</strong>ficial<br />
l<strong>an</strong>guages <strong>in</strong> this city are H<strong>in</strong>di, English <strong>an</strong>d Gujariti. Dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year, a<br />
number <strong>of</strong> fairs are held <strong>in</strong> Ahmadabad, most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m bear<strong>in</strong>g some relev<strong>an</strong>ce to some<br />
religious belief or event.<br />
Ahmadabad was <strong>the</strong> capital city <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Gujarat between <strong>the</strong> years 1960 <strong>an</strong>d<br />
1970. Dur<strong>in</strong>g that period, <strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> G<strong>an</strong>dh<strong>in</strong>agar, named after Mahatma G<strong>an</strong>dhi, <strong>an</strong>d<br />
situated 23 kilometres <strong>from</strong> Ahmadabad, was built. In 1970, G<strong>an</strong>dh<strong>in</strong>agar became <strong>the</strong><br />
capital city <strong>of</strong> Gujarat <strong>in</strong> place <strong>of</strong> Ahmadabad. 188<br />
As with almost every city <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world, Ahmadabad‟s <strong>in</strong>habit<strong>an</strong>ts practiced a variety <strong>of</strong><br />
religions, with not all <strong>the</strong> religions hav<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> same number <strong>of</strong> adherents. It is <strong>in</strong>correct<br />
to state that most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> population <strong>of</strong> Ahmadabad are Muslims. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> 2001<br />
184<br />
Onl<strong>in</strong>e bus ticket book<strong>in</strong>g _ Mumbai to Ahmedabad.<br />
(bustickets.makemytrip.com/BusIntegration/bus/book<strong>in</strong>g?execution=e1345350s2 – accessed 1 June<br />
2011).<br />
185<br />
Rabbi Meir Posen, Ohr Meir, (London 1973), Hebrew text p.327 <strong>an</strong>d Tables p.123.<br />
186<br />
Map <strong>of</strong> Ahmadabad, (TTK Healthcare, Tamil Nadu, India).<br />
187<br />
Ibid.<br />
188<br />
A Road Guide to Ahmadabad, (TTK Healthcare, 2009), pp.4, 6, 8; Gujarat Road Atlas (Indi<strong>an</strong> Map<br />
Service, Jodhpur, 2007) p.4; Wikipedia: Ahmedabad – accessed 20 June 2011
39<br />
census <strong>of</strong> that city 84.62% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> population <strong>in</strong> Ahmadabad are H<strong>in</strong>du, whilst only<br />
11.4% are Muslim. However, despite its relatively small size, <strong>the</strong> community <strong>of</strong><br />
Muslims is culturally signific<strong>an</strong>t <strong>in</strong> Ahmadabad, <strong>an</strong>d dates <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> times <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
sult<strong>an</strong>ate. 189 The riot<strong>in</strong>g between Muslims <strong>an</strong>d H<strong>in</strong>dus <strong>in</strong> Ahmadabad has resulted <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>re be<strong>in</strong>g separate Muslim <strong>an</strong>d H<strong>in</strong>du areas <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> city. 190 The H<strong>in</strong>du areas are<br />
beautifully kept <strong>an</strong>d are cle<strong>an</strong>, whereas <strong>the</strong>re is a stench <strong>of</strong> overflow<strong>in</strong>g garbage <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Muslim areas, as a result <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> municipality garbage workers refuse to enter <strong>the</strong>se<br />
areas fear<strong>in</strong>g for <strong>the</strong>ir lives. 191 However, despite this racial tension <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> city, <strong>in</strong> April<br />
2003 a Muslim wom<strong>an</strong> was elected as mayor <strong>of</strong> Ahmadabad, <strong>an</strong>d what is more, this<br />
occurred just a year after <strong>the</strong> city was ravaged by its worst communal riots <strong>in</strong> recent<br />
times. 192<br />
I w<strong>an</strong>ted to buy cloth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> stores so I could disguise myself as a Muslim.<br />
(p.339)<br />
Muslim dress is different <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> dress <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r religions, s<strong>in</strong>ce under Islamic law,<br />
<strong>the</strong>re are strict regulations regard<strong>in</strong>g modest dress<strong>in</strong>g for both women <strong>an</strong>d men. A<br />
wom<strong>an</strong> must cover her entire body with <strong>the</strong> exception <strong>of</strong> her face <strong>an</strong>d h<strong>an</strong>ds. For a m<strong>an</strong>,<br />
<strong>the</strong> m<strong>in</strong>imum amount to be covered is between <strong>the</strong> naval <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> knees. Although this<br />
may seem sparse compared with a wom<strong>an</strong>‟s cloth<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>the</strong>re are pert<strong>in</strong>ent reasons for<br />
this rul<strong>in</strong>g. M<strong>an</strong>y Muslim men are employed as construction workers, farmers, <strong>an</strong>d<br />
some spend most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day work<strong>in</strong>g under a hot sun, <strong>an</strong>d thus <strong>the</strong> wear<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> as much<br />
cloth<strong>in</strong>g as a wom<strong>an</strong> would be impractical. The term “hijab” refers to <strong>the</strong> way a<br />
Muslim m<strong>an</strong> or wom<strong>an</strong> dresses. For both women <strong>an</strong>d men, <strong>the</strong> cloth<strong>in</strong>g must be thick<br />
enough not to be see-through. It must also be loose so as not to outl<strong>in</strong>e or dist<strong>in</strong>guish<br />
<strong>the</strong> shape <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> body. For this reason men <strong>of</strong>ten wear a loose, long-sleeved robe<br />
extend<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> neck to <strong>the</strong> <strong>an</strong>kles, which comes <strong>in</strong> various colours. Such a garment<br />
is known as a “thobe” or a “thawb”. 193 It is normally made <strong>of</strong> cotton, but heavier<br />
materials, such as sheep‟s wool is used dur<strong>in</strong>g colder seasons. 194 This thobe was quite<br />
possibly <strong>the</strong> garment that Ronen w<strong>an</strong>ted to buy <strong>an</strong>d it would have been quite different<br />
<strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> garments he was <strong>the</strong>n wear<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d thus it would act as a disguise.<br />
189<br />
Wikipedia: Demographics <strong>an</strong>d culture <strong>of</strong> Ahmedabad, op. cit. - accessed 20 June 2011.<br />
190<br />
“Ahmedabad’s ghettos”, Frontl<strong>in</strong>e, (India’s National Magaz<strong>in</strong>e <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> publishers <strong>of</strong> “The H<strong>in</strong>du”)<br />
vol.20, issue 20, 27 September – 10 October 2003.<br />
191<br />
“A polarised society that is Gujarat”, Bus<strong>in</strong>ess L<strong>in</strong>e (F<strong>in</strong><strong>an</strong>cial daily <strong>from</strong> “The H<strong>in</strong>du” group <strong>of</strong><br />
publications) 20 May 2002.<br />
192<br />
“Ahmedabad elects India’s 1st Muslim wom<strong>an</strong> Mayor” Indi<strong>an</strong> Express, 17 April 2003.<br />
193<br />
Def<strong>in</strong>ition <strong>of</strong> Hijab for Muslim Men. (maria-za<strong>in</strong>.suite101.com/def<strong>in</strong>ition-<strong>of</strong>-hijab-for-muslim-men-<br />
a44107 - accessed 30 December 2011); Islamic Cloth<strong>in</strong>g Requirements<br />
(islam.about.com/od/dress/p/cloth<strong>in</strong>g_reqs.htm – accessed 22 June 2011).<br />
194 Wikipedia: Thaub – accessed 21 June 2011.
40<br />
I hired a rickshaw <strong>an</strong>d asked <strong>the</strong> boy to take me to <strong>an</strong> area where I could f<strong>in</strong>d a cloth<strong>in</strong>g<br />
store. We circled <strong>the</strong> empty streets for about forty m<strong>in</strong>utes, go<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> one closed store to<br />
<strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r. (p.339)<br />
There is no shortage <strong>of</strong> ways to travel around <strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> Ahmadabad. Although <strong>the</strong><br />
black <strong>an</strong>d yellow coloured taxis that are found <strong>in</strong> Mumbai are rare <strong>in</strong> Ahmadabad, <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are private taxis which c<strong>an</strong> be hired. With regards to public tr<strong>an</strong>sport, <strong>the</strong>re are<br />
numerous municipal buses run by <strong>the</strong> Ahmadabad Municipal Tr<strong>an</strong>sport Services <strong>an</strong>d<br />
<strong>the</strong>y cover all <strong>the</strong> areas <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city. Also <strong>the</strong>y charge a very nom<strong>in</strong>al price for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
services. Although <strong>the</strong>y do not have a fixed time schedule, <strong>the</strong>y operate on a regular<br />
basis. 195<br />
For short dist<strong>an</strong>ce, people prefer rickshaws. Orig<strong>in</strong>ally, <strong>the</strong>se were two or three<br />
wheeled vehicles which seats one or two persons <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y would be physically pulled<br />
along by a hum<strong>an</strong>. In fact <strong>the</strong> word “rickshaw” orig<strong>in</strong>ates <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> Jap<strong>an</strong>ese word<br />
“j<strong>in</strong>rikisha” which literally me<strong>an</strong>s “hum<strong>an</strong>-powered vehicle”. 196 Such rickshaws were<br />
later replaced by a three wheeled tricycle rickshaw which was pedal driven by a<br />
driver. 197 At a still later date, this was replaced by a motorized version – <strong>of</strong>ten called <strong>an</strong><br />
“auto”. Today this latest version is common all over India <strong>an</strong>d provides cle<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d<br />
efficient tr<strong>an</strong>sportation. 198<br />
Every rickshaw driver has a fare chart which states how much <strong>the</strong> fare should be for<br />
different dist<strong>an</strong>ces. There is also a meter to measure <strong>the</strong> dist<strong>an</strong>ces travelled. The<br />
passenger is advised when enter<strong>in</strong>g such a vehicle to ensure that <strong>the</strong> driver sets <strong>the</strong><br />
meter to zero <strong>an</strong>d he should also look at <strong>the</strong> fare chart <strong>an</strong>d pay accord<strong>in</strong>gly. 199<br />
It was early <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g that Ronen went around Ahmadabad with <strong>the</strong> rickshaw<br />
driver but <strong>the</strong>y found that <strong>the</strong> cloth<strong>in</strong>g shops were not yet open. Although a few shops<br />
might open at about ten o‟clock, most do not open until about eleven o‟clock or even<br />
eleven thirty 200 <strong>an</strong>d thus it was not surpris<strong>in</strong>g that Ronen did f<strong>in</strong>d one which was open<br />
so early <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
The book does not specify <strong>in</strong> which area <strong>of</strong> Ahmadabad <strong>the</strong>y looked for a shop sell<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Muslim clo<strong>the</strong>s but it was quite possibly <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Central Bus Station. One <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> shopp<strong>in</strong>g malls <strong>in</strong> this area which sells, amongst m<strong>an</strong>y o<strong>the</strong>r commodities, cloth<strong>in</strong>g,<br />
is M<strong>an</strong>ek Chowk. These <strong>in</strong>clude several men‟s cloth<strong>in</strong>g shops, although it is not known<br />
195<br />
Ahmadabad Local Tr<strong>an</strong>sport (www.ahmedabad.org.uk/travel-tips/local-tr<strong>an</strong>sport.html - accessed 21<br />
June 2011; Road Guide <strong>of</strong> Ahmadabad, op. cit., pp.40-43.<br />
196<br />
Wikipedia: Rickshaw – accessed 21 June 2011.<br />
197<br />
Wikipedia: Cycle rickshaw – accessed 21 June 2011.<br />
198<br />
Wikipedia: Auto rickshaw – accessed 21 June 2011.<br />
199<br />
Ahmadabad Local tr<strong>an</strong>sport, op. cit.<br />
200<br />
Acknowledgements to “i<strong>an</strong>scott”, a resident <strong>of</strong> Ahmedabad, via IndiaMike for <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>formation.
41<br />
whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>y stock Muslim garments. 201 However, <strong>in</strong> this area is situated <strong>the</strong> mosque<br />
Jama Masjid. This mosque is described as <strong>the</strong> most beautiful mosque <strong>in</strong> India <strong>an</strong>d it<br />
was built <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> year 1423. It has 260 pillars which support 15 domes <strong>of</strong> vary<strong>in</strong>g<br />
heights. It also conta<strong>in</strong>s <strong>the</strong> mausoleum <strong>of</strong> Sult<strong>an</strong> Ahmed Shah, <strong>the</strong> founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city<br />
<strong>of</strong> Ahmadabad, <strong>an</strong>d also <strong>the</strong> graves <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> three great rulers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Shah dynasty <strong>in</strong><br />
Gujarat. Until this day, this mosque serves as a prayer place for hundreds <strong>of</strong><br />
Muslims. 202<br />
S<strong>in</strong>ce large numbers <strong>of</strong> Muslims come to pray <strong>in</strong> this mosque <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>re are five daily<br />
services <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Muslim ritual, this could <strong>in</strong>dicate that Muslim cloth<strong>in</strong>g could be bought<br />
<strong>in</strong> this area.<br />
I went <strong>in</strong>side <strong>the</strong> station ... I went to <strong>the</strong> cashier <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>quired about <strong>the</strong> next tra<strong>in</strong> to Jaipur<br />
<strong>in</strong> [<strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong>] Rajasth<strong>an</strong>. (p.339)<br />
Jaipur is <strong>the</strong> capital <strong>an</strong>d also <strong>the</strong> largest city <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong>. It was founded <strong>in</strong><br />
1727 <strong>an</strong>d today has a population <strong>of</strong> nearly four million <strong>in</strong>habit<strong>an</strong>ts. It is situated on <strong>the</strong><br />
eastern side <strong>of</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d is <strong>in</strong> a semi-desert area. The streets are very well pl<strong>an</strong>ned<br />
<strong>an</strong>d are laid out <strong>in</strong>to six sectors separated by broad streets. H<strong>in</strong>di <strong>an</strong>d Rajasth<strong>an</strong>i are <strong>the</strong><br />
most common l<strong>an</strong>guages spoken <strong>the</strong>re, with English, Punjabi <strong>an</strong>d S<strong>in</strong>dhi also be<strong>in</strong>g<br />
widely spoken. When <strong>the</strong> Pr<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>of</strong> Wales visited Jaipur <strong>in</strong> 1853, <strong>the</strong> whole city was<br />
pa<strong>in</strong>ted p<strong>in</strong>k <strong>in</strong> his honour <strong>an</strong>d until this day <strong>the</strong> avenues rema<strong>in</strong> pa<strong>in</strong>ted <strong>in</strong> p<strong>in</strong>k, thus<br />
giv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> city <strong>the</strong> nickname <strong>the</strong> “P<strong>in</strong>k City”. 203<br />
To travel to Jaipur <strong>from</strong> Ahmadabad, one has a choice <strong>of</strong> a number <strong>of</strong> tra<strong>in</strong>s each day.<br />
The route taken by <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong>s is via Mehes<strong>an</strong>a, Abu Road <strong>an</strong>d Ajmer. 204 The length <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> journey is about 625 kilometres <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> time taken for <strong>the</strong> journey is about 12<br />
hours. At <strong>the</strong> vast majority <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>termediate stations, <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong>s‟ stop time is 2<br />
m<strong>in</strong>utes, but both Abu Road <strong>an</strong>d Ajmer, it is 10 m<strong>in</strong>utes. 205<br />
However, for some reason, <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> which <strong>the</strong> cashier <strong>in</strong>formed Ronen was one which<br />
went on a longer route, namely via Udaipur, <strong>an</strong>d it took much longer. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, as<br />
we shall now see, it was not a through tra<strong>in</strong>, but one that one would have to ch<strong>an</strong>ge at<br />
Udaipur.<br />
201<br />
via Google - M<strong>an</strong>ek Chowk – cloth<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
202<br />
Road Guide to Ahmadabad, op. cit. p.26, Jama Masjid Ahmedabad.<br />
(www.ahmedabad.org.uk/religious-places/jama-masjid.html - accessed 1 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012); Jamar Masjid<br />
<strong>in</strong> Ahmedabad (www.asiarooms.com/en/travel-guide/<strong>in</strong>dia/ahmedabad/sightsee<strong>in</strong>g-<strong>in</strong>ahmedabad/jama-masjid-<strong>in</strong>-ahmedabad.html<br />
- accessed 1 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
203<br />
Wikipedia: Jaipur – accessed 22 June 2011.<br />
204<br />
India Railway Atlas, Railway Time Table, op. cit., pp.22, 23.<br />
205<br />
Ashram Express (12915), (www.mustsee<strong>in</strong>dia.com/tra<strong>in</strong>s/Ashram-Express-12915 - accessed 23 June<br />
2011.
42<br />
In fact it was not possible to have a through tra<strong>in</strong> <strong>from</strong> Ahmadabad to Jaipur, due to<br />
different rail gauges. The rail gauge on <strong>the</strong> l<strong>in</strong>e between Ahmadabad <strong>an</strong>d Udaipur is not<br />
<strong>the</strong> same as that between Udaipur <strong>an</strong>d Jaipur. 206 One must <strong>the</strong>refore ch<strong>an</strong>ge tra<strong>in</strong>s at<br />
Udaipur.<br />
Rail gauge is <strong>the</strong> dist<strong>an</strong>ce between <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>ner sides <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> heads <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> two load bear<strong>in</strong>g<br />
rails that make up a s<strong>in</strong>gle railway l<strong>in</strong>e. Sixty per cent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world‟s railways use a<br />
st<strong>an</strong>dard gauge <strong>of</strong> 1.435 metres. 207 However, <strong>in</strong> India it was determ<strong>in</strong>ed that, due to <strong>the</strong><br />
local climatic conditions, a wider gauge <strong>of</strong> 1.676 metres, known as broad gauge, was<br />
advisable, 208 <strong>an</strong>d this is <strong>the</strong> gauge between Udaipur <strong>an</strong>d Jaipur. 209 However this is not<br />
<strong>the</strong> only gauge on <strong>the</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> railways. In fact, three o<strong>the</strong>r gauges are to be found, 210 one<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m be<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> metre gauge on <strong>the</strong> l<strong>in</strong>e between Ahmadabad <strong>an</strong>d Udaipur. 211<br />
I bought a ticket [to Jaipur] <strong>an</strong>d r<strong>an</strong> … <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> direction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong>. ... I went <strong>in</strong>to a<br />
carriage p<strong>an</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g… I went <strong>from</strong> car to car look<strong>in</strong>g for a place to sit. All <strong>the</strong> cars were full,<br />
but after a long search I found <strong>an</strong> empty seat. … I sat on a bench opposite <strong>an</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong><br />
family. (p.340)<br />
As at 2005, <strong>the</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> railway system sp<strong>an</strong>ned over 63,000 route kilometres. It<br />
comprised more th<strong>an</strong> 8,000 stations <strong>an</strong>d more th<strong>an</strong> 13 million passengers travelled each<br />
day on 14,000 tra<strong>in</strong>s. 212<br />
The tra<strong>in</strong>s run on diesel fuel or electricity depend<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong> route. At <strong>the</strong> front <strong>of</strong> each<br />
tra<strong>in</strong> are <strong>the</strong> driver <strong>an</strong>d his assist<strong>an</strong>t, <strong>an</strong>d at <strong>the</strong> tail end is <strong>the</strong> guard who is <strong>in</strong> charge <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong>. As with o<strong>the</strong>r countries <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world, <strong>in</strong> India <strong>the</strong>re are various classes <strong>of</strong><br />
travel <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> more ones pays for one‟s ticket, <strong>the</strong> better travell<strong>in</strong>g conditions one<br />
receives, but compared with western prices, <strong>the</strong> fares are very cheap <strong>in</strong>deed! These<br />
classes <strong>of</strong> travel <strong>in</strong>clude second class general compartment, second class sleeper<br />
compartment, air-conditioned second class sleeper, <strong>an</strong>d first class compartments. The<br />
second class sleeper class is <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> chunk <strong>of</strong> a typical express tra<strong>in</strong> with each coach<br />
hold<strong>in</strong>g about 72 passengers <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> bunks which are three tier with each three tiers<br />
fac<strong>in</strong>g a <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r three. Each tra<strong>in</strong> has a luggage v<strong>an</strong> attached at <strong>the</strong> ends <strong>of</strong> each tra<strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>an</strong>d most long dist<strong>an</strong>ce tra<strong>in</strong>s also have a p<strong>an</strong>try car which serves meals, snacks <strong>an</strong>d<br />
dr<strong>in</strong>ks.<br />
206 Samit Roychoudhury, The Great Indi<strong>an</strong> Railway Atlas, (Calcutta Art Studies: India, 2005), p,19;<br />
Wikipedia: Udaipur (Rail) – accessed 20 June 2011.<br />
207 Wikipedia: Track gauge – accessed 22 June 2011.<br />
208 Wikipedia: Indi<strong>an</strong> Gauge – accessed 22 June 2011.<br />
209<br />
Wikipedia: Udaipur, op. cit.<br />
210<br />
Great Indi<strong>an</strong> Railway Atlas, op. cit., p.86.<br />
211<br />
Wikipedia: Udaipur, op. cit.<br />
212<br />
Great Indi<strong>an</strong> Railway Atlas, op. cit., p.2.
43<br />
In almost all <strong>the</strong> classes <strong>of</strong> travel, tickets c<strong>an</strong> be booked up to 60 days <strong>in</strong> adv<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>of</strong><br />
travell<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d a reservation made. In fact, <strong>the</strong> only tickets that one c<strong>an</strong> buy at <strong>the</strong><br />
railway station, <strong>an</strong>d one c<strong>an</strong> even do so when <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> is st<strong>an</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g at <strong>the</strong> platform ready<br />
for departure, is for a second class general compartment. There are no seat reservations<br />
<strong>in</strong> this class <strong>of</strong> travel. In this class, <strong>the</strong>re are <strong>of</strong>ten two such carriages at <strong>the</strong> front <strong>of</strong> a<br />
tra<strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d two at <strong>the</strong> back. The seats are wooden <strong>an</strong>d are <strong>in</strong> rows <strong>of</strong> two fac<strong>in</strong>g each<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r. There are no sleep<strong>in</strong>g berths <strong>an</strong>d thus if one was on a long journey, one would<br />
have to sleep <strong>in</strong> a sitt<strong>in</strong>g position. The physical conditions on this class are a bare<br />
m<strong>in</strong>imum. There are four squat toilets for each carriage, two wash bas<strong>in</strong>s <strong>an</strong>d f<strong>an</strong>s. 213<br />
S<strong>in</strong>ce Ronen purchased his ticket immediately before travel, he obviously travelled <strong>in</strong> a<br />
second class general compartment. This is confirmed by his comments that he “sat on a<br />
bench opposite <strong>an</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> family” which is <strong>the</strong> layout <strong>of</strong> seats <strong>in</strong> this class <strong>of</strong> travel.<br />
These carriages are <strong>of</strong>ten overcrowded <strong>an</strong>d one will have to search for a seat. Even after<br />
f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g a seat, <strong>the</strong>re is no guar<strong>an</strong>tee that you will be able to hold on to it for <strong>the</strong> entire<br />
journey. Should one leave it unattended even for a few m<strong>in</strong>utes, someone else may<br />
me<strong>an</strong>while occupy it! 214 It <strong>in</strong>deed took Ronen a long time to f<strong>in</strong>d a seat due to <strong>the</strong><br />
overcrowd<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
It was a nerve wrack<strong>in</strong>g trip which lasted <strong>the</strong> whole day. The tra<strong>in</strong> stopped every twenty<br />
m<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>in</strong> a different village. … At m<strong>an</strong>y stations <strong>the</strong> locals would come on to <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>an</strong>d sold [light refreshments]. (p.340)<br />
On which tra<strong>in</strong> did Ronen travel? A tra<strong>in</strong> which <strong>in</strong> September 2005, “stopped every<br />
twenty m<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>in</strong> a different village” was <strong>the</strong> Mewar Fast Passenger. 215 This tra<strong>in</strong><br />
started <strong>from</strong> Ahmadabad <strong>an</strong>d its f<strong>in</strong>al dest<strong>in</strong>ation was Udaipur. As stated above, <strong>the</strong>re<br />
could physically not be <strong>an</strong>y through tra<strong>in</strong>s <strong>from</strong> Ahmadabad to Jaipur, due to <strong>the</strong><br />
ch<strong>an</strong>ge <strong>in</strong> railway gauges, <strong>an</strong>d as a result one would have to ch<strong>an</strong>ge tra<strong>in</strong>s at Unaipur.<br />
This tra<strong>in</strong> departed <strong>from</strong> Ahmadabad at 7.05 <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d arrived at Udaipur at<br />
17.15 <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> late afternoon. Between Ahmadabad <strong>an</strong>d Udaipur <strong>the</strong>re were thirty stops,<br />
<strong>the</strong> average dist<strong>an</strong>ce between each stop was about twenty m<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> waited<br />
at each stop for two m<strong>in</strong>utes. The stops <strong>in</strong>cluded Naroda, Talod, Sunak, Lusadiya,<br />
Jagabor, Shalashah Th<strong>an</strong>a, Semari, Zawar <strong>an</strong>d Umra. An exception was Himmatnagar<br />
which was a junction, where <strong>the</strong> stop was for ten m<strong>in</strong>utes. 216 Himmatnagar, which<br />
literally me<strong>an</strong>s <strong>the</strong> “Town <strong>of</strong> Courage” has two palaces <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> town <strong>an</strong>d is also famous<br />
for Asia‟s best Horse Tra<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g Centre. 217 For <strong>the</strong> first part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> journey <strong>from</strong><br />
213<br />
IndiaMike: A Guide to <strong>the</strong> India Railway System <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> Tra<strong>in</strong>.<br />
214<br />
Ibid.<br />
215<br />
IndiaMike: Tra<strong>in</strong> - RT CLS Suspended before book<strong>in</strong>g opens!!, “vsp27759”.<br />
216 Ibid.<br />
217 Wikipedia: Himatnagar – accessed 20 June 2011.
44<br />
Ahmadabad, this tra<strong>in</strong> only stopped at every o<strong>the</strong>r station. For stations such as Sahijpur,<br />
Jaliya Math <strong>an</strong>d Khari Amrapur, 218 it did not stop. Only local tra<strong>in</strong>s that travelled<br />
relatively short dist<strong>an</strong>ces stopped at <strong>the</strong>se stations. 219<br />
Between Lusadiya <strong>an</strong>d Jugabor is <strong>the</strong> border between Gujarat <strong>an</strong>d Rajasth<strong>an</strong>, 220 but<br />
Ronen made no special mention <strong>of</strong> cross<strong>in</strong>g this border. He does however comment<br />
that at each station on this entire route, police looked at <strong>the</strong> passengers <strong>in</strong> each carriage,<br />
but almost certa<strong>in</strong>ly not specifically for him.<br />
One may well ask why Ronen did not take a direct express tra<strong>in</strong> all <strong>the</strong> way <strong>from</strong><br />
Ahmadabad to Jaipur.<br />
In 2005 (<strong>the</strong> period <strong>of</strong> Ronen‟s <strong>escape</strong>) <strong>the</strong>re were several tra<strong>in</strong>s each day which went<br />
between Ahmadabad <strong>an</strong>d Jaipur. There was <strong>the</strong> Ahmadabad-Delhi Mail which departed<br />
on this route every day at about 10 o‟clock every morn<strong>in</strong>g. There was also <strong>the</strong> Ashram<br />
Express which made this daily run, depart<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> Ahmadabad at 17.45. The first <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>se two tra<strong>in</strong>s took about thirteen <strong>an</strong>d a half hours for <strong>the</strong> journey, whilst <strong>the</strong> second<br />
was a little faster <strong>an</strong>d took just under eleven hours. 221<br />
In addition <strong>the</strong>re were <strong>the</strong> B<strong>an</strong>dra-Jaipur Express <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Bhuj-Bareilly Express which<br />
beg<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir journeys before Ahmadabad where <strong>the</strong>y arrived at 5.45 <strong>an</strong>d 19.15<br />
respectively <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y <strong>the</strong>n went on to Jaipur. 222<br />
There were also <strong>the</strong> Uttar<strong>an</strong>chal Express, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Portb<strong>an</strong>dar–Delhi Sarai Rohilla<br />
Express, which took this route but <strong>the</strong>y did not make this journey on Wednesday,<br />
which was <strong>the</strong> day that Ronen travelled by tra<strong>in</strong> <strong>from</strong> Ahmadabad. 223<br />
All <strong>the</strong>se tra<strong>in</strong>s would have been much quicker that go<strong>in</strong>g via Udaipur. On <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
h<strong>an</strong>d, Ronen would have had to wait about <strong>an</strong> additional three hours <strong>in</strong> Ahmadabad for<br />
<strong>the</strong> earliest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se tra<strong>in</strong>s, namely <strong>the</strong> Ahmadabad-Delhi Mail. Not hav<strong>in</strong>g secured <strong>the</strong><br />
Muslim garments to act as a disguise, Ronen obviously w<strong>an</strong>ted to travel as far away<br />
218<br />
Great Indi<strong>an</strong> Railway Atlas, op. cit., p.29.<br />
219<br />
e.g. Himmatnagar Ahmedabad Passenge/ 52919<br />
(www.onefiven<strong>in</strong>e.com/<strong>in</strong>dia/Rail/RailDetails/52919 - accessed 1 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012);<br />
N<strong>an</strong>dol Dehegam Ahmedabad Passenger / 52915 (www.onefiven<strong>in</strong>e.com/<strong>in</strong>dia/Rail/RailDetails/52915 -<br />
accessed 1 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
220<br />
Great Indi<strong>an</strong> Railway Atlas, op. cit., p.30.<br />
221<br />
Ahmadabad-Delhi Mail (as at 1 December 2005) (www.<strong>in</strong>dia9.com/i9show/Ahmedabad-Delhi-Mail-<br />
60025.htm - accessed 23 June 2011); Ashram Express (as at 7 June 2005),<br />
(www.<strong>in</strong>dia9.com/i9show/Ashram-Express-52282.htm - accessed 23 June 2011); India Railway Atlas,<br />
op. cit., Railway Time Table (2003-2004), p.22, 23.<br />
222<br />
India Railway Atlas, Railway Time Table, op. cit., pp.23, 29.<br />
223 Ibid., pp.23, 24.
45<br />
<strong>from</strong> Mumbai as quickly as possible. It is also possible that <strong>the</strong> only <strong>in</strong>formation that<br />
<strong>the</strong> cashier gave him was for <strong>the</strong> next tra<strong>in</strong>, namely, <strong>the</strong> slow tra<strong>in</strong> via Udaipur.<br />
[A passenger <strong>in</strong>formed Ronen that] <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> wouldn‟t reach Jaipur until one o‟clock <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
morn<strong>in</strong>g. ... Everyone [<strong>in</strong> Jaipur] would be sleep<strong>in</strong>g [at that hour] <strong>an</strong>d I wouldn‟t f<strong>in</strong>d a<br />
place to sleep. It would be very d<strong>an</strong>gerous to sleep <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> street without a passport. I<br />
decided to get <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> at Udaipur, a big city that <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> would reach at eight thirty<br />
at night. [p.341]<br />
From a <strong>study</strong> <strong>of</strong> railway timetables, it seems that <strong>the</strong> times <strong>of</strong> day given <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book are<br />
not accurate. Ronen left Mumbai on a bus to Ahmadabad at eight thirty <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
He arrived <strong>in</strong> Ahmadabad “early <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g”. The earliest time that this could have<br />
been, when tak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to account both <strong>the</strong> m<strong>in</strong>imum time a bus would take to go <strong>from</strong><br />
Mumbai to Ahmadabad <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> sunrise that day, would be soon after six<br />
o‟clock. Ronen states that he <strong>the</strong>n drove around <strong>in</strong> a rickshaw <strong>in</strong> Ahmadabad look<strong>in</strong>g<br />
for a shop sell<strong>in</strong>g Muslim clo<strong>the</strong>s for a period <strong>of</strong> forty m<strong>in</strong>utes. He <strong>the</strong>n went to <strong>the</strong><br />
railway station, made enquiries regard<strong>in</strong>g a tra<strong>in</strong> to Jaipur, <strong>an</strong>d later returned to <strong>the</strong><br />
station <strong>an</strong>d just m<strong>an</strong>aged to catch this tra<strong>in</strong>. It would seem that <strong>the</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> was <strong>the</strong> Mewar<br />
Fast Passenger which departed at 7.05. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> book, <strong>the</strong>re was a lot <strong>of</strong><br />
activity between soon after six o‟clock <strong>an</strong>d 7.05. It is thus quite possible th<strong>an</strong> his time<br />
on <strong>the</strong> rickshaw was ra<strong>the</strong>r less th<strong>an</strong> forty m<strong>in</strong>utes.<br />
A fur<strong>the</strong>r time <strong>in</strong>accuracy was regard<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> time he arrived <strong>in</strong> Udaipur. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to<br />
<strong>the</strong> timetable, <strong>the</strong> scheduled time was quarter past five, whereas he stated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book<br />
that it was half past eight. It is also possible that this tra<strong>in</strong> arrived much later th<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
timetable time, namely at eight thirty - someth<strong>in</strong>g which is not unusual for tra<strong>in</strong>s <strong>in</strong><br />
India! 224 However, as we shall soon see, <strong>the</strong> next stage <strong>in</strong> Ronen‟s journey seems to<br />
confirm that he arrived <strong>in</strong> Udaipur well before eight thirty.<br />
Ronen states that a passenger told him that <strong>the</strong>y would arrive <strong>in</strong> Jaipur at one o‟clock <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g. Ei<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> passenger was <strong>in</strong>correct or <strong>the</strong> time he told Ronen is <strong>in</strong>correctly<br />
reported <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book. S<strong>in</strong>ce Ronen adds that he was worried that he would not f<strong>in</strong>d a<br />
place to sleep at that time <strong>of</strong> night <strong>in</strong> Jaipur, it would seem, as we shall now see, that<br />
<strong>the</strong> passenger erred regard<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> arrival time.<br />
In 2005, around <strong>the</strong> period <strong>of</strong> Ronen‟s <strong>escape</strong>, <strong>the</strong> Chetak Express departed daily <strong>from</strong><br />
Udaipur at 18.15 hours <strong>an</strong>d arrived <strong>in</strong> Jaipur at 5.20 <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g 225 – a journey <strong>of</strong><br />
436 kilometres <strong>an</strong>d <strong>of</strong> duration about eleven hours. This would have been a reasonably<br />
good connection with a tra<strong>in</strong> arriv<strong>in</strong>g at Udaipur at 17.15 hours. A less good connection<br />
was <strong>the</strong> Lake City Express which departed daily <strong>from</strong> Udaipur at 20.50 hours <strong>an</strong>d<br />
224 via Google – Indi<strong>an</strong> tra<strong>in</strong>s – late.<br />
225 Chetak Express (as at 7 June 2005), (www.<strong>in</strong>dia9.com/i9show/Chetak-Express-54874.htm - accessed<br />
24 June 2011); India Railway Atlas, Railway Time Table, op. cit., p.11.
46<br />
arrived <strong>in</strong> Jaipur at 7.15 <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g. 226 Thus, even on <strong>the</strong> earlier <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se two tra<strong>in</strong>s,<br />
Ronen could not have arrived at Jaipur at one o‟ clock <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Udaipur, which is situated at <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong>, is known as <strong>the</strong><br />
“City <strong>of</strong> Lakes”. It was founded by Mahar<strong>an</strong>a Udai S<strong>in</strong>gh II <strong>in</strong> 1559. It is also known as<br />
<strong>the</strong> “Venice <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> East” <strong>an</strong>d is also nicknamed <strong>the</strong> “Lake City”. The lakes <strong>in</strong> this city<br />
<strong>in</strong>clude Fateh Sagar Lake <strong>an</strong>d Lake Pichola <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y are considered as some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
most beautiful lakes <strong>in</strong> this state. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, <strong>the</strong> city is also rated as one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />
beautiful cities <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world. There are also a number <strong>of</strong> palaces <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> city, <strong>the</strong> largest<br />
palace complex be<strong>in</strong>g known as <strong>the</strong> “City Palace”. This palace was built on a hill top<br />
which gives it a p<strong>an</strong>oramic view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city <strong>an</strong>d its surround<strong>in</strong>gs. O<strong>the</strong>r beautiful<br />
palaces <strong>in</strong>clude <strong>the</strong> Monsoon Palace which is also known as Sajj<strong>an</strong> Garh Palace.<br />
Udaipur has a population <strong>of</strong> just over half a million. 227<br />
[From Udaipur, Ronen telephoned his wife – Wednesday, 28 September - <strong>an</strong>d she told<br />
him] This morn<strong>in</strong>g all <strong>the</strong> newspapers [<strong>in</strong> India] were filled with articles about you <strong>an</strong>d<br />
your <strong>escape</strong> along with pictures. Even here <strong>in</strong> Israel <strong>the</strong> Yediot Achronot had <strong>an</strong> article<br />
about you this morn<strong>in</strong>g [which <strong>in</strong>cluded details <strong>of</strong> Ronen‟s <strong>escape</strong> <strong>an</strong>d <strong>of</strong> details <strong>of</strong> his<br />
family.] (pp.342-43)<br />
On Wednesday, 28 September, <strong>the</strong>re were <strong>in</strong>deed articles on Ronen‟s <strong>escape</strong> <strong>in</strong> at least<br />
two English l<strong>an</strong>guage Indi<strong>an</strong> newspapers, 228 but no articles appeared that day <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Israeli newspaper Yediot Acharonot, nor did <strong>the</strong>y appear that day <strong>in</strong> Ma‟ariv. However,<br />
on <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g day, <strong>the</strong>re were articles <strong>in</strong> both <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se newspapers, but not <strong>in</strong><br />
Ha‟aretz nor <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Jerusalem Post.<br />
The larger by far <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> two articles was <strong>in</strong> Yediot Acharonot <strong>an</strong>d occupied about a<br />
third <strong>of</strong> a page with a massive headl<strong>in</strong>e “Israeli flees <strong>from</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> Jail”. It beg<strong>an</strong> by<br />
stat<strong>in</strong>g that “<strong>the</strong> Mumbai police were mak<strong>in</strong>g a massive m<strong>an</strong>hunt after Ronen Dvash<br />
aged 33, who had been arrested with a suitcase full <strong>of</strong> hashish <strong>an</strong>d had succeeded two<br />
days earlier to <strong>escape</strong> <strong>from</strong> under <strong>the</strong> noses <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> police.” The article cont<strong>in</strong>ued that<br />
Ronen “had denied <strong>an</strong>y connection with <strong>the</strong> drugs which had been found <strong>in</strong> his<br />
possession <strong>an</strong>d argued that he had arrived <strong>in</strong> India <strong>in</strong> order to purchase clo<strong>the</strong>s for his<br />
bro<strong>the</strong>r‟s shop.” The article <strong>the</strong>n went on to state how he had been sitt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> jail for<br />
over a year await<strong>in</strong>g trial <strong>an</strong>d how <strong>in</strong> India one c<strong>an</strong> wait m<strong>an</strong>y years until <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong><br />
one‟s trial. On his family status, it said that Ronen was married <strong>an</strong>d had two children. It<br />
<strong>the</strong>n reported how he was not feel<strong>in</strong>g well, was taken for tests to a hospital, asked to<br />
226<br />
Lake City Express (as at 7 June 2005), (www.<strong>in</strong>dia9.com/i9show/Lake-City-Express-59707.htm -<br />
accessed 25 June 2011); India Railway Atlas, Railway Time Table, op. cit., p.11.<br />
227<br />
Rajasth<strong>an</strong> Tourist Road Atlas (Indi<strong>an</strong> Map Service: Jodhpur, 2008), p.16; Wikipedia: Udaipur –<br />
accessed 26 June 2011; Wikipedia: City Palace, Udaipur – accessed 26 June 2011.<br />
228 The Times <strong>of</strong> India, op. cit.; DNA, op. cit. – contents <strong>of</strong> articles have been given above.
47<br />
use <strong>the</strong> toilet, closed <strong>the</strong> door <strong>an</strong>d fled through <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dow, without <strong>the</strong> police guard<strong>in</strong>g<br />
him realis<strong>in</strong>g what had happened. 229<br />
The article <strong>in</strong> Ma‟ariv was just a small part <strong>of</strong> a s<strong>in</strong>gle column <strong>an</strong>d was headed “Israeli<br />
Citizen Escaped <strong>from</strong> Jail <strong>in</strong> India”. This paper also stated Ronen‟s family status, <strong>an</strong>d<br />
that several months earlier he had contracted malaria <strong>an</strong>d had been brought for<br />
treatment to a local hospital. The article <strong>the</strong>n commented that <strong>the</strong> guard<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> him was<br />
not as efficient as it should have been <strong>an</strong>d thus he m<strong>an</strong>aged to <strong>escape</strong>. 230<br />
[In this telephone conversation, Ronen‟s wife also told him about a m<strong>an</strong> called] Avraham<br />
who lives <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi. He has a place <strong>the</strong>re called „Ohel Avraham‟ … He is wait<strong>in</strong>g for<br />
you. (p.343)<br />
As <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> case mentioned above <strong>in</strong> Mumbai, where <strong>the</strong> book ch<strong>an</strong>ges <strong>the</strong> “Chabad<br />
House” to “Israeli restaur<strong>an</strong>t‟, <strong>the</strong> author also here ch<strong>an</strong>ges <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> place to<br />
“Ohel Avraham” <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> person runn<strong>in</strong>g it as “Avraham”. However, <strong>in</strong> his lectures he<br />
identifies <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> place as “Habayit Hayehudi” (<strong>the</strong> Jewish House) <strong>an</strong>d also<br />
gives <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> person <strong>the</strong>n runn<strong>in</strong>g it as Eliezer Botzer. We shall <strong>the</strong>refore also<br />
use <strong>the</strong>se names.<br />
[S<strong>in</strong>ce all tra<strong>in</strong>s to Var<strong>an</strong>asi went via New Delhi, Ronen was afraid that <strong>the</strong> police would<br />
be look<strong>in</strong>g for him <strong>the</strong>re. He <strong>the</strong>refore opted for a taxi.] I went to <strong>an</strong> area with a lot <strong>of</strong> taxis<br />
… <strong>an</strong>d I found a driver who agreed to take me [to Var<strong>an</strong>asi]. ....We left at ten o‟clock. The<br />
driver told me it would take around thirty hours to get to Var<strong>an</strong>asi. ... At four <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
morn<strong>in</strong>g we reached <strong>the</strong> border between [<strong>the</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> states] Rajasth<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d Uttar Pradesh.<br />
... [The border guards told <strong>the</strong> taxi driver] that he would have to pay three thous<strong>an</strong>d five<br />
hundred rupees to get a permit to enter Uttar Pradesh. … even if we comb<strong>in</strong>ed all our<br />
money it would not be enough [to cover this amount]. (pp.344-45)<br />
It would seem that <strong>the</strong> shortest <strong>an</strong>d quickest route <strong>from</strong> Udaipur which is <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong><br />
Rajasth<strong>an</strong> to Var<strong>an</strong>asi, which is <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Uttar Pradesh is to travel almost due east<br />
<strong>an</strong>d go via Chittaurgarh, Kota, Shivpuri, Jh<strong>an</strong>si, Orai <strong>an</strong>d Fatehpur. This is a dist<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>of</strong><br />
about 1,120 kilometres <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> journey takes over 16 hours. 231<br />
The disadv<strong>an</strong>tage <strong>of</strong> this route, as far as Ronen was concerned, was that it <strong>in</strong>volves<br />
cross<strong>in</strong>g two state borders - Rajasth<strong>an</strong> to Madhya Pradesh <strong>an</strong>d Madhya Pradesh to Uttar<br />
Pradesh - with <strong>the</strong> consequent additional possible border <strong>in</strong>spections.<br />
The book clearly states that <strong>the</strong> border Ronen <strong>in</strong>tended cross<strong>in</strong>g was between Rajasth<strong>an</strong><br />
<strong>an</strong>d Uttar Pradesh. No fur<strong>the</strong>r details <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> route taken are given, but <strong>the</strong>re are several<br />
229<br />
Yediot Acharonot, op. cit.<br />
230<br />
Ma’ariv, op. cit.<br />
231<br />
Tourist Map Rajasth<strong>an</strong> (Indi<strong>an</strong> Map Service: Jodhpur, 2008); a TTK map Uttar Pradesh (TTK<br />
Healthcare: Tamilnadu, 2009); Google map – get directions.
48<br />
possibilities based on a reasonable assumption that <strong>the</strong> border cross<strong>in</strong>g chosen by<br />
Ronen was <strong>the</strong> one just beyond Bharatpur.<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se routes <strong>in</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong> is via Beawar, Ajmer, Jaipur, Mahwa <strong>an</strong>d Bharatpur;<br />
<strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r is via Bhilwara, Shahpura, Kekri, Chaksu, Dausa <strong>an</strong>d Bharatpur; a third is<br />
via Bhilwara, Shahpura, Tonk, G<strong>an</strong>gapur, Bay<strong>an</strong>a <strong>an</strong>d Bharatpur. After cross<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />
border <strong>in</strong>to Uttar Pradesh, to reach Var<strong>an</strong>asi one goes via Agra, K<strong>an</strong>pur <strong>an</strong>d Fatehpur.<br />
The journey is about 1,250 kilometres, which is only slightly longer th<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong> above due<br />
east route <strong>an</strong>d takes about 18 hours. 232 Ronen had obviously preferred to m<strong>in</strong>imise <strong>the</strong><br />
number <strong>of</strong> state border cross<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>an</strong>d chose a longer route <strong>in</strong> which <strong>the</strong>re was to be only<br />
one state border cross<strong>in</strong>g, namely direct <strong>from</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong> to Uttar Pradesh.<br />
The journey by car (or taxi) <strong>from</strong> Udaipur to <strong>the</strong> border with Uttar Pradesh, just beyond<br />
Bharatpur, is about 600 kilometres <strong>an</strong>d takes nearly n<strong>in</strong>e hours. 233 As stated above, <strong>the</strong><br />
tra<strong>in</strong> <strong>from</strong> Ahmadabad to Udaipur arrived at 17.15 hours ra<strong>the</strong>r th<strong>an</strong> 20.30 as stated <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> book, <strong>an</strong>d thus <strong>the</strong> arrival at <strong>the</strong> state border at about four o‟clock <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g<br />
could be a reasonable approximation.<br />
The dem<strong>an</strong>d by <strong>the</strong> border guards to <strong>the</strong> taxi driver that he would have to pay three<br />
thous<strong>an</strong>d five hundred rupees to get a permit to enter Uttar Pradesh is not at all clear.<br />
As stated earlier, <strong>the</strong>re is no fee to cross a state border <strong>in</strong> India. A fee c<strong>an</strong> be dem<strong>an</strong>ded<br />
to take certa<strong>in</strong> vehicles across or to tr<strong>an</strong>sport certa<strong>in</strong> produces. It could well be that <strong>the</strong><br />
border guards were dem<strong>an</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g this money for <strong>the</strong>ir own pockets!<br />
The only th<strong>in</strong>g [solution for a source <strong>of</strong> money to pay <strong>the</strong> border guards] was to f<strong>in</strong>d a<br />
br<strong>an</strong>ch <strong>of</strong> Western Union <strong>an</strong>d ask my family to send money. The [taxi] driver made a uturn<br />
<strong>an</strong>d we started look<strong>in</strong>g for a Western Union. [p.345]<br />
The Western Union Comp<strong>an</strong>y is a f<strong>in</strong><strong>an</strong>cial services <strong>an</strong>d communications comp<strong>an</strong>y<br />
which is based <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> United States. It was founded <strong>in</strong> 1851 <strong>in</strong> Rochester, New York as<br />
<strong>the</strong> “The New York <strong>an</strong>d Mississippi Valley Pr<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g Telegraph Comp<strong>an</strong>y”, but five<br />
years later ch<strong>an</strong>ged its name to “Western Union Telegraph Comp<strong>an</strong>y”. Its function was<br />
to tr<strong>an</strong>smit telegrams all over <strong>the</strong> world <strong>an</strong>d this service cont<strong>in</strong>ued until 2006, <strong>an</strong>d it<br />
was <strong>the</strong> best known United States comp<strong>an</strong>y <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> bus<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>of</strong> exch<strong>an</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g telegrams. In<br />
1871, <strong>the</strong> comp<strong>an</strong>y <strong>in</strong>troduced its person to person money tr<strong>an</strong>sfer service, based on its<br />
extensive telegraph network. As <strong>the</strong> telephone replaced <strong>the</strong> telegraph, money tr<strong>an</strong>sfers<br />
became its primary bus<strong>in</strong>ess. As <strong>of</strong> December 2005, <strong>the</strong> comp<strong>an</strong>y had 250,000 Western<br />
232 Tourist Map Rajasth<strong>an</strong>, op. cit.; TTK map Uttar Pradesh, op. cit.; Google Maps – get directions.<br />
233 Google Maps – get directions.
49<br />
Union agent locations <strong>in</strong> over 195 countries <strong>an</strong>d territories. 234 This <strong>of</strong> course <strong>in</strong>cluded<br />
m<strong>an</strong>y agents <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong> 235 where Ronen <strong>the</strong>n was.<br />
After <strong>an</strong> hour <strong>an</strong>d a half we reached a little village <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> desert. … It was a<br />
wealthy village with huge, well-kept homes. The houses had private swimm<strong>in</strong>g pools <strong>an</strong>d<br />
f<strong>an</strong>cy cars next to <strong>the</strong>m.… I couldn‟t believe how a village <strong>of</strong> millionaires blossomed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong> desert. (p.345)<br />
About sixty percent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> total geographical area <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong> consists <strong>of</strong><br />
desert. This desert is <strong>the</strong> Thar Desert, (it is also known as <strong>the</strong> Great Indi<strong>an</strong> Desert) <strong>an</strong>d<br />
it also extends <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn portions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> states <strong>of</strong> Hary<strong>an</strong>a <strong>an</strong>d Punjab <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>to<br />
<strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Gujarat. The desert also forms a natural boundary<br />
which runs along <strong>the</strong> border between India <strong>an</strong>d Pakist<strong>an</strong>. The area <strong>of</strong> this desert is more<br />
th<strong>an</strong> 200,000 square kilometres <strong>an</strong>d is <strong>the</strong> seventh largest desert <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world. There are<br />
three pr<strong>in</strong>cipal l<strong>an</strong>dforms is this desert region. They are <strong>the</strong> predom<strong>in</strong><strong>an</strong>tly s<strong>an</strong>d<br />
covered Thar, <strong>the</strong> pla<strong>in</strong>s with hills <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> central dune free country <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> semiarid<br />
area surround<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> Aravalli r<strong>an</strong>ge. 236<br />
The book gives no fur<strong>the</strong>r details as to <strong>the</strong> identity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> village that Ronen reached, or<br />
even more precise details as to its location. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, to state that that village is<br />
situated only <strong>an</strong> hour <strong>an</strong>d a half‟s drive <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> border with Uttar Pradesh, <strong>an</strong>d that it<br />
is <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong> desert c<strong>an</strong>not be correct. The Thar Desert does not<br />
extend so far east as to even approach <strong>the</strong> border with Uttar Pradesh. One would need<br />
to travel far more th<strong>an</strong> one <strong>an</strong>d a half hours to reach this desert at all, <strong>an</strong>d even<br />
considerably more to reach <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> this desert.<br />
I submitted <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g question <strong>in</strong> April 2010 to IndiaMike <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> hope that this<br />
village might be identified: “Wealthy village <strong>in</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong>: I read about a certa<strong>in</strong> little<br />
village situated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> desert <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong> about one <strong>an</strong>d a half hours drive<br />
<strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> border with <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Uttar Pradesh. This village is very wealthy <strong>an</strong>d has<br />
large houses with luxurious furniture, carpets, televisions <strong>an</strong>d private swimm<strong>in</strong>g pools,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> owners have expensive cars. C<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>yone please help me identify this village?<br />
Th<strong>an</strong>k you.” However, even after about 450 people had viewed this question over a<br />
long period <strong>of</strong> time, <strong>the</strong>re was not even one suggested <strong>an</strong>swers to this question. 237<br />
Some days after I had submitted my question to IndiaMike, “chooper786” sent my<br />
question to “Phasor”. There, <strong>the</strong>re were a couple <strong>of</strong> replies to this question.<br />
“NucleusFermi” wrote that “<strong>the</strong>re c<strong>an</strong> be m<strong>an</strong>y such [<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> east <strong>of</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong>], <strong>an</strong>d<br />
234 Wikipedia: Western Union (as <strong>of</strong> 1 February 2006 <strong>an</strong>d 11 June 2010) – accessed 27 June 2011.<br />
235 via Google – Western Union – Rajasth<strong>an</strong>.<br />
236 Wikipedia : Thar Desert –accessed 27 June 2011.<br />
237 IndiaMike, “Wealthy village <strong>in</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong>” – question submitted on 25 April 2010.
50<br />
“nikjerry” wrote “I have heard about this wealthy village <strong>in</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong>”. 238 However, as<br />
c<strong>an</strong> been seen, <strong>the</strong>se two <strong>an</strong>swers did not adv<strong>an</strong>ce my identification <strong>of</strong> this village,<br />
A possibility that could be put forward is that this village is situated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Shekhawati<br />
area <strong>of</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong>. This area, whose size is nearly 13,800 square kilometres, is situated<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> north-eastern part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>an</strong>d it is a semi-desert area. 239<br />
The name Shekhawati is named after a great warrior named Rao-Shekha, who<br />
established this area. He ruled over this territory for m<strong>an</strong>y years <strong>an</strong>d died <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> year<br />
1488, near Ralawta. 240<br />
The Shekhawati area <strong>in</strong>cludes <strong>the</strong> districts <strong>of</strong> Sikar <strong>an</strong>d Jhunjhunu. There <strong>the</strong><br />
Shekhawats built m<strong>an</strong>y impos<strong>in</strong>g build<strong>in</strong>gs. Some specific examples are Roop Niwas<br />
Kothi, which was established as a large country house by Rawal Mad<strong>an</strong> S<strong>in</strong>gh who was<br />
<strong>the</strong> former ruler <strong>of</strong> Nawalgarh. This house sits on <strong>an</strong> area <strong>of</strong> over 0.4 square kilometres<br />
<strong>an</strong>d its facade is pa<strong>in</strong>ted <strong>in</strong> charm<strong>in</strong>g colour ochre. Ano<strong>the</strong>r example is Mukundgarh<br />
Fort, which today has been converted <strong>in</strong>to a hotel. It was built <strong>in</strong> 1859 <strong>in</strong> a traditional<br />
style <strong>an</strong>d spreads over over 8,000 square metres. It has several courtyards, balconies<br />
which look as if <strong>the</strong>y are h<strong>an</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> air, arched w<strong>in</strong>dows <strong>an</strong>d corridors which<br />
display <strong>the</strong> richness, diversity <strong>an</strong>d tradition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Shekhawati wall pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs. 241<br />
However, <strong>the</strong>re are numerous villages with<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se two districts <strong>an</strong>d it is impossible<br />
<strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> book to know which one Ronen is referr<strong>in</strong>g to. It c<strong>an</strong> be said, however, that<br />
with<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se two districts <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Shekhawati are to be found <strong>the</strong> types <strong>of</strong> homes<br />
described <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book. There, wealthy bus<strong>in</strong>ess magnates live <strong>in</strong> palatial build<strong>in</strong>gs<br />
adorned with fresco pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong> different colours <strong>an</strong>d shades. 242 Artists were<br />
commissioned to pa<strong>in</strong>t frescos <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se houses <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>se frescos are noted for depict<strong>in</strong>g<br />
mythological <strong>the</strong>mes. The build<strong>in</strong>gs are known as “havelis”, which is <strong>the</strong> term used for<br />
a build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> personal residence <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Shekhawati area. This word is <strong>of</strong> Persi<strong>an</strong> orig<strong>in</strong>,<br />
me<strong>an</strong><strong>in</strong>g “<strong>an</strong> enclosed place”, s<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong>y used to be closed <strong>from</strong> all sides with one big<br />
strong ma<strong>in</strong> gate. The largest havelis could have up to three to four courtyards <strong>an</strong>d were<br />
two to three stories high. 243<br />
238<br />
Phasor, “Wealthy village <strong>in</strong> Rajasth<strong>an</strong>” – question submitted on 30 April 2010.<br />
239<br />
Wikipedia: Shekhawati – accessed 26 June 2011.<br />
240<br />
History [<strong>of</strong> Jhunjhunu]<br />
(www.myjhunjhunu.com/jhunjhunu/History%20<strong>of</strong>%20District%20Jhunjhunu.htm – accessed 8 J<strong>an</strong>uary<br />
2012).<br />
241<br />
Wikipedia: Shekhawati, op. cit.; History [<strong>of</strong> Jhunhunu], op. cit.; Heritage Hotels <strong>in</strong> Mukundgarh<br />
(www.<strong>in</strong>dia-heritage-hotels.com/hotels-<strong>in</strong>-<strong>in</strong>dia/heritage-hotels-<strong>in</strong>-<strong>in</strong>dia/heritage-hotels-<strong>in</strong>mukundgarh-<strong>in</strong>dia.html<br />
- accessed 28 June 2011).<br />
242<br />
History [<strong>of</strong> Jhunhunu], op. cit.<br />
243<br />
Tourisum Places – M<strong>an</strong>dawa-Jaipur (webtourisum.blogspot.com/2011/06/m<strong>an</strong>dawa-jaipur.html -<br />
accessed 8 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).
51<br />
The dist<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> border to <strong>the</strong>se areas is just over 300 kilometres <strong>an</strong>d it would<br />
take about five hours to reach <strong>the</strong>m, (by avoid<strong>in</strong>g cross<strong>in</strong>g state borders) 244 <strong>an</strong>d not just<br />
<strong>an</strong> hour <strong>an</strong>d a half as stated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book, although <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> night, when <strong>the</strong>re<br />
is very little traffic on <strong>the</strong> roads, as it was <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> Ronen, it could well be less.<br />
We asked someone if <strong>the</strong>re was a br<strong>an</strong>ch <strong>of</strong> Western Union <strong>the</strong>re <strong>an</strong>d he told us that a few<br />
houses down <strong>the</strong> road lived <strong>the</strong> m<strong>an</strong>ager <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local Western Union br<strong>an</strong>ch. ... We went to<br />
<strong>the</strong> house that we were directed to. [The m<strong>an</strong>ager fed Ronen with fruit salad, allowed him<br />
to take a shower <strong>an</strong>d made <strong>the</strong> necessary arr<strong>an</strong>gements for money to be tr<strong>an</strong>sferred to<br />
Ronen via Western Union.] (pp.345-349)<br />
S<strong>in</strong>ce we do not know <strong>the</strong> location <strong>of</strong> this village, it is not possible to identify which<br />
Western Union br<strong>an</strong>ch, he was m<strong>an</strong>ager <strong>of</strong>. There are numerous Western Union agents<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Jhunjhunu area, some <strong>of</strong> which are located <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> Jhunjhunu, <strong>an</strong>d o<strong>the</strong>rs<br />
located <strong>in</strong> Chirawa, Bagar <strong>an</strong>d Dhundlod. There are also a large number <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Sikar<br />
area, some <strong>of</strong> which are located <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> Sikar, <strong>an</strong>d o<strong>the</strong>rs located at Jakhal <strong>an</strong>d<br />
Nawalgarh. These br<strong>an</strong>ches are to be found <strong>in</strong> a whole variety <strong>of</strong> places - b<strong>an</strong>ks, post<br />
<strong>of</strong>fices, travel agents, various stores, cafes, gas service stations. They are usually open<br />
each day <strong>from</strong> about 9 or 10 <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g until <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g hours, with m<strong>an</strong>y be<strong>in</strong>g<br />
closed on Sundays. 245 It is possible that it was at one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se br<strong>an</strong>ches that he was <strong>the</strong><br />
m<strong>an</strong>ager.<br />
„I [<strong>the</strong> Western Union m<strong>an</strong>ager speak<strong>in</strong>g to Ronen] have a driver who I work with who<br />
would be happy to take you to Var<strong>an</strong>asi. ... I am go<strong>in</strong>g to jo<strong>in</strong> you on <strong>the</strong> trip. ... We have<br />
twenty-four hours travel ahead <strong>of</strong> us.‟ ... We travelled on for m<strong>an</strong>y long hours through <strong>the</strong><br />
desert. [Several stops were made dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> journey so that <strong>the</strong>y could take<br />
short naps.] (pp.347-352)<br />
A route <strong>from</strong> Jhunjhunu to Var<strong>an</strong>asi goes via Alwar, Agra, K<strong>an</strong>pur <strong>an</strong>d Fatehpur. 246<br />
The world famous Taj Mahal is <strong>in</strong> Agra. This build<strong>in</strong>g is regarded as one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />
beautiful build<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world, <strong>an</strong>d it is reported that <strong>in</strong> 2003, more th<strong>an</strong> three million<br />
people visited it. In 2007, this build<strong>in</strong>g was voted as one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “New Seven Wonders<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> World”. It was built as a mausoleum by <strong>the</strong> Mughal emperor Shah Jah<strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong><br />
memory <strong>of</strong> his third wife <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> first half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> seventeenth century. It took over twenty<br />
years to build <strong>an</strong>d utilised thous<strong>an</strong>ds <strong>of</strong> artis<strong>an</strong>s <strong>an</strong>d craftsm<strong>an</strong>. 247<br />
244<br />
Google Maps – get directions.<br />
245<br />
Western Union <strong>in</strong> Sik<strong>an</strong>dra, India (www.wu-store.com/western-union-<strong>in</strong>dia-sik<strong>an</strong>dra.php - accessed<br />
8 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012); Western Union <strong>in</strong> Jhunjhunu, India (www.wu-store.com/western-union-<strong>in</strong>diajhunjhunu.php<br />
- accessed 8 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012); via google – westernunion – <strong>in</strong>fonow.net – select country,<br />
India – enter city, Jhunjhunu <strong>an</strong>d Sikar.<br />
246<br />
Google Maps – get directions.<br />
247<br />
Wikipedia: Taj Mahal – accessed 29 June 2011; Wikipedia: New Seven Wonders <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> World –<br />
accessed 29 June 2011.
52<br />
The dist<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>from</strong> Jhunjhunu to Var<strong>an</strong>asi is just under 950 kilometres <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> journey<br />
normally takes a little over 13 hours. 248 Even if <strong>the</strong> time taken when <strong>the</strong>y stopped <strong>an</strong>d<br />
slept amounts to 4 hours, it still leaves about 7 hours unaccounted for. However, <strong>the</strong><br />
book states that <strong>the</strong>y travelled for m<strong>an</strong>y long hours through <strong>the</strong> desert. But Jhunjhunu is<br />
right at <strong>the</strong> edge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> desert. However, it is possible that <strong>the</strong> m<strong>an</strong>ager did not go<br />
directly to Var<strong>an</strong>asi but attended to various items <strong>of</strong> his own bus<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>in</strong> places situated<br />
with<strong>in</strong> this desert for <strong>the</strong>se 7 hours.<br />
„Ohel Avraham‟ [Habayit Hayehudi <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi] ... [is] surrounded by a maze <strong>of</strong> narrow<br />
alleyways that are restricted to pedestri<strong>an</strong> traffic. The driver brought me as close as<br />
possible. ... I found <strong>an</strong> old m<strong>an</strong> who agreed to escort me <strong>the</strong>re ... It was a relief when I<br />
saw a build<strong>in</strong>g with Hebrew letters say<strong>in</strong>g „Welcome to Ohel Avraham <strong>of</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi‟.<br />
(pp.352-53)<br />
Var<strong>an</strong>asi is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> oldest <strong>in</strong>habited cities <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world <strong>an</strong>d it is reputed to be at least<br />
three thous<strong>an</strong>d years old, <strong>an</strong>d it is situated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> south eastern side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Uttar<br />
Pradesh. This state is <strong>the</strong> most populous state <strong>in</strong> India <strong>an</strong>d accounts for over sixteen<br />
percent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> total population <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country. O<strong>the</strong>r names for Var<strong>an</strong>asi are Benares<br />
<strong>an</strong>d Kashi. It has a population <strong>of</strong> over 1,300,000 people <strong>an</strong>d it is situated on <strong>the</strong> b<strong>an</strong>ks<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> G<strong>an</strong>ges River, 320 kilometres <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> state capital Lucknow. It is a holy city for<br />
H<strong>in</strong>dus <strong>an</strong>d is one <strong>of</strong> seven most holy places for <strong>the</strong>m <strong>in</strong> India, with more th<strong>an</strong> a million<br />
pilgrims visit<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> city every year. 249<br />
Var<strong>an</strong>asi is famed for its “ghats”. A ghat is a very special type <strong>of</strong> emb<strong>an</strong>kment, which<br />
is actually a long flight <strong>of</strong> wide stone steps lead<strong>in</strong>g down to <strong>the</strong> river. H<strong>in</strong>dis will use<br />
some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se ghats to go <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> River G<strong>an</strong>ges for a ritual bath<strong>in</strong>g. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ghats<br />
are used for cremation purposes. In <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> nearly seven kilometres on <strong>the</strong><br />
G<strong>an</strong>ges waterfront are to be found nearly one hundred ghats. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m are big,<br />
whilst o<strong>the</strong>rs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m are small. They were built dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> eighteenth <strong>an</strong>d n<strong>in</strong>eteenth<br />
centuries. 250<br />
This city is also a pilgrimage site for Buddhists <strong>an</strong>d Ja<strong>in</strong>s. In addition, <strong>the</strong> city is<br />
famous for its f<strong>in</strong>e arts <strong>an</strong>d crafts <strong>an</strong>d especially so <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> field <strong>of</strong> silk weav<strong>in</strong>g. It is also<br />
a seat <strong>of</strong> learn<strong>in</strong>g, hav<strong>in</strong>g several universities <strong>an</strong>d colleges teach<strong>in</strong>g a whole variety <strong>of</strong><br />
subjects. 251<br />
Var<strong>an</strong>asi's “Old City”, which is situated near <strong>the</strong> b<strong>an</strong>ks <strong>of</strong> G<strong>an</strong>ges, consists <strong>of</strong> a maze <strong>of</strong><br />
crowded narrow w<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g l<strong>an</strong>es that are fl<strong>an</strong>ked by road-side shops <strong>an</strong>d scores <strong>of</strong> H<strong>in</strong>du<br />
248 Google Maps – get directions<br />
249 Wikipedia: Var<strong>an</strong>asi – accessed 29 June 2011; Var<strong>an</strong>asi (s<strong>an</strong>katmoch<strong>an</strong>.tripod.com/Var<strong>an</strong>asi.htm –<br />
accessed 29 June 2011); A Road Guide to Uttar Pradesh (TTK Healthcare: K<strong>an</strong>chipuram, 2009), p.4.<br />
250 The Ghats <strong>of</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi (h<strong>in</strong>duism.about.com/od/temples/a/var<strong>an</strong>asi_ghats.htm – accessed 29 June<br />
2011); Tourist Guide & Map Var<strong>an</strong>asi ((Indi<strong>an</strong> Map Service: Jodhpur [n.y.], p.4.<br />
251 Wikipedia: Var<strong>an</strong>asi, op. cit.; Tourist Guide & Map Var<strong>an</strong>asi, op. cit., p.2; Var<strong>an</strong>asi, op. cit.
53<br />
temples. 252 Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> alleys are so narrow that cars c<strong>an</strong>not fit through. 253 In fact,<br />
taxis are only allowed to go up to a certa<strong>in</strong> po<strong>in</strong>t, <strong>an</strong>d thus Ronen‟s taxi could not go as<br />
far as Habayit Hayehudi. These alleys are full <strong>of</strong> m<strong>an</strong>y pedestri<strong>an</strong>s, motorcyclists,<br />
bicyclists <strong>an</strong>d cows. In fact cows are quite common <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi <strong>an</strong>d o<strong>the</strong>r forms <strong>of</strong><br />
traffic have to work around <strong>the</strong>m. 254 There are numerous advertisement boards <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />
l<strong>an</strong>es. Naturally, some are <strong>in</strong> H<strong>in</strong>di, but <strong>the</strong>re are also m<strong>an</strong>y <strong>in</strong> English to attract <strong>the</strong><br />
tourists <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>re are even some <strong>in</strong> Hebrew. 255 One restaur<strong>an</strong>t even advertises <strong>in</strong> its<br />
menu “Israeli pitza”. 256<br />
This maze <strong>of</strong> streets <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Old City is confus<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> tourist, one <strong>of</strong> whom wrote <strong>in</strong> a<br />
review, “We would not venture to <strong>the</strong> Old City ourselves because it is a maze <strong>of</strong><br />
extremely narrow streets <strong>an</strong>d we knew we would never be able to f<strong>in</strong>d our way out. The<br />
guide was well worth it or I would still be lost <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>re <strong>in</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> writ<strong>in</strong>g this<br />
review.” 257 It was thus fortunate that Ronen found <strong>an</strong> old m<strong>an</strong> who was prepared to<br />
escort him to Habayit Hayehudi!<br />
In summary, Var<strong>an</strong>asi is <strong>of</strong>ten referred to “<strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> temples”, “<strong>the</strong> holy city <strong>of</strong> India”,<br />
“<strong>the</strong> religious capital <strong>of</strong> India”, “<strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> lights”, <strong>an</strong>d “<strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> learn<strong>in</strong>g”. 258<br />
As stated above, we see <strong>from</strong> Ronen‟s lectures that <strong>the</strong> book ch<strong>an</strong>ged <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
place Ronen went to <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi <strong>from</strong> “Habayit Hayehudi” to “Ohel Avraham”.<br />
Although <strong>in</strong> most places <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world, Chabad were <strong>the</strong> pioneers to set up houses to<br />
draw people back to Judaism, <strong>in</strong> India <strong>the</strong> first org<strong>an</strong>isation to do so was “Habayit<br />
Hayehudi” who beg<strong>an</strong> its work <strong>the</strong>re <strong>in</strong> 1997.<br />
The first Habayit Hayehudi established <strong>in</strong> India was set up by Rabbi Michi Yosefi <strong>in</strong><br />
Dharamsala <strong>in</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn India, <strong>an</strong>d at a later date <strong>the</strong>y were directed by Rabbi Eliezer<br />
Botzer, who orig<strong>in</strong>ally came <strong>from</strong> Safed <strong>in</strong> Israel. 259 Their activities <strong>in</strong>cluded lectures,<br />
252<br />
Wikipedia: Var<strong>an</strong>asi, op. cit.<br />
253<br />
Var<strong>an</strong>asi – old city alleys (www.<strong>an</strong>gelfire.com/<strong>in</strong>die/widowshome/var<strong>an</strong>asialleys.html - accessed 9<br />
J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
254<br />
Var<strong>an</strong>asi traffic <strong>an</strong>d people (www.<strong>an</strong>gelfire.com/<strong>in</strong>die/widowshome/traffic.html - accessed 9<br />
J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012); Var<strong>an</strong>asi – old city alleys, op. cit.<br />
255<br />
Var<strong>an</strong>asi – old city alleys, op. cit.<br />
256<br />
Var<strong>an</strong>asi – <strong>the</strong> old city (www.<strong>an</strong>gelfire.com/<strong>in</strong>die/widowshome2/var<strong>an</strong>asi.html - accessed 9 J<strong>an</strong>uary<br />
2012).<br />
257<br />
“Awesome hotel, but get all rates <strong>in</strong> writ<strong>in</strong>g” (www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g297685d307314-r47924296-Hotel_G<strong>an</strong>ges_View-Var<strong>an</strong>asi_Uttar_Pradesh.html<br />
- accessed 9 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
258<br />
Wikipedia: Var<strong>an</strong>asi, op. cit.<br />
259 “From Goa to Gemara”, Mishpacha, English edition, 23 September 2009, p.38.
54<br />
workshops <strong>an</strong>d s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d were run by suitable young people who were <strong>in</strong>volved <strong>in</strong><br />
education. Those attend<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> activities were <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> non-religious Israelis. 260<br />
A number <strong>of</strong> br<strong>an</strong>ches <strong>of</strong> Habayit Hayehudi were established <strong>in</strong> India, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g one <strong>in</strong><br />
Var<strong>an</strong>asi. The Var<strong>an</strong>asi one was <strong>in</strong> operation over each Pesach <strong>an</strong>d also over <strong>the</strong> period<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Tishri Festivals. 261 It was just a few days before Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah that Ronen<br />
arrived <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi <strong>an</strong>d Habayit Hayehudi was already open for <strong>the</strong> Tishri Festivals.<br />
Habayit Hayehudi <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi would rent a small hotel <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong>s. At first <strong>the</strong>y<br />
rented a certa<strong>in</strong> hotel which is situated about half a kilometre <strong>from</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi Railway<br />
Station <strong>an</strong>d about 3 kilometres <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> River G<strong>an</strong>ges. 262 At a later date <strong>the</strong>y rented <strong>the</strong><br />
G<strong>an</strong>ga Guest House 263 <strong>an</strong>d this was place <strong>the</strong>y were at <strong>in</strong> 2005 when Ronen was <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
On <strong>the</strong> second floor [<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> G<strong>an</strong>ga Guest House] I saw a large balcony. (p.353)<br />
The G<strong>an</strong>ga Guest House is situated amongst a maze <strong>of</strong> streets at B30/250A Nagwa.<br />
This is near Assi Ghat, which is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ghats next to <strong>the</strong> G<strong>an</strong>ges River. 264 The<br />
Tourist Guide booklet for Var<strong>an</strong>asi writes <strong>of</strong> this ghat: “It traditionally constitutes <strong>the</strong><br />
sou<strong>the</strong>rn end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> conventional city. The ghat is located on <strong>the</strong> confluence <strong>of</strong> G<strong>an</strong>ga<br />
<strong>an</strong>d Asi. A dip <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> river at this place is considered very holy, especially <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> month<br />
<strong>of</strong> Chatiya (March/April) <strong>an</strong>d Magh (J<strong>an</strong>/Feb).” 265 This guest house is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Government <strong>of</strong> India‟s approved pay<strong>in</strong>g guest houses <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi. It is privately owned<br />
by Kailash Nishad, who is also a famous musici<strong>an</strong>. 266 The guest house build<strong>in</strong>g consists<br />
<strong>of</strong> five double bedrooms <strong>an</strong>d has three floors <strong>an</strong>d employs two people. 267 It is smaller<br />
th<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong> previous hotel that Habayit Hayehudi rented.<br />
Habayit Hayehudi would rent <strong>the</strong> top two floors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> G<strong>an</strong>ga Guest House which<br />
comprised four rooms. They served food <strong>an</strong>d occasionally allowed people to sleep<br />
<strong>the</strong>re. It was ma<strong>in</strong>ly non-religious Israelis who visited <strong>the</strong> place, some on a daily basis<br />
260<br />
Telephone conversations with Rabbi Oded David 3 February 2010 <strong>an</strong>d Rabbi Eliezer Botzer, 10<br />
February 2010.<br />
261<br />
Telephone conversation with Rabbi Eliezer Botzer, op. cit.<br />
262<br />
Tourist Guide Map Var<strong>an</strong>asi (Indi<strong>an</strong> Map Service: Jodhpur, 2005).<br />
263<br />
Telephone conversations wwith C<strong>an</strong>nu, a resident <strong>of</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi, 17 & 18 February 2010.<br />
264<br />
M<strong>in</strong>istry <strong>of</strong> Tourism India, Executive Summary – Collection <strong>of</strong> Tourism Statistics for <strong>the</strong> State <strong>of</strong><br />
Uttar Pradesh (April 2005 – March 2006), (ACNielsen.Org.Marg), Survey <strong>of</strong> Tourist Accommodation<br />
Unit, Var<strong>an</strong>asi hotel no. 107,<br />
(tourism.gov.<strong>in</strong>/CMSPagePicture/file/marketresearch/statisticalsurveys/06%20up.pdf – accessed 10<br />
J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
265<br />
Tourist Guide & Map Var<strong>an</strong>asi, op. cit., p.4.<br />
266<br />
Pay<strong>in</strong>g Guest Var<strong>an</strong>asi, (www.var<strong>an</strong>asi-g<strong>an</strong>ges.com/pay<strong>in</strong>g-guest-var<strong>an</strong>asi.html -accessed 30 June<br />
2011).<br />
267 M<strong>in</strong>istry <strong>of</strong> Tourism – Tourism Statistics, op. cit.
55<br />
<strong>an</strong>d some for Shabbat <strong>an</strong>d Festivals. They would also utilise <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>an</strong>d for Sukkot<br />
<strong>the</strong>y would build a Sukkah <strong>the</strong>re. 268<br />
A Jewish girl reported on her stay at this guest house: “Happy 24th birthday <strong>in</strong><br />
Var<strong>an</strong>asi, India ... I went <strong>of</strong>f to Var<strong>an</strong>asi for <strong>the</strong> first time. Here I spent Yom Kipur <strong>an</strong>d<br />
Sucot which also was my birthday. It was really nice to spent [sic] it <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> „Jewish<br />
House‟ [Habayit Hayehudi] with a nice family <strong>an</strong>d m<strong>an</strong>y good people .... I went on to<br />
my Daily Yoga class. In <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g I went to <strong>the</strong> Jewish House where I met nice<br />
people, to Celebrate my (<strong>an</strong>d Tal‟s – <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r Israeli birthday girl) birthday ... Under <strong>the</strong><br />
„Suca‟.” 269<br />
A Pesach seder was celebrated yearly at this guest house <strong>an</strong>d it has been hosted by <strong>the</strong><br />
families <strong>of</strong> Rabbi Eliezer Botzer <strong>from</strong> Yitzar <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Shomron <strong>an</strong>d Rabbi Oded David<br />
<strong>from</strong> Pardes Ch<strong>an</strong>a. 270<br />
There were all sorts <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>struments on <strong>the</strong> tables, guitars <strong>an</strong>d drums <strong>an</strong>d m<strong>an</strong>y books <strong>of</strong><br />
Rebbe Nachm<strong>an</strong> [<strong>of</strong> Breslov]. (p.353)<br />
Music holds a central part amongst Breslov Chasidim. The numerous record<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>ir songs are ei<strong>the</strong>r a b<strong>an</strong>d play<strong>in</strong>g, or <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>strumental accomp<strong>an</strong>iment to s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g. 271<br />
Thus we c<strong>an</strong> underst<strong>an</strong>d why <strong>the</strong>re were “all sorts <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>struments on <strong>the</strong> tables, guitars<br />
<strong>an</strong>d drums” <strong>in</strong> this guest house.<br />
There are also m<strong>an</strong>y books which were written by Rebbe Nachm<strong>an</strong>, which were<br />
published <strong>an</strong>d dissem<strong>in</strong>ated ma<strong>in</strong>ly after his death by his closest student Reb Noson.<br />
These <strong>in</strong>clude “Likutey Mohar<strong>an</strong>” which are Rebbe Nachm<strong>an</strong>‟s major Torah discourses<br />
<strong>an</strong>d which were tr<strong>an</strong>scribed by Reb Noson, who <strong>in</strong> m<strong>an</strong>y cases was able to check <strong>the</strong><br />
tr<strong>an</strong>script with <strong>the</strong> Rebbe; “Sippurei Ma‟asiyot” are 13 stories with deep spiritual<br />
lessons; “Tikkun Haklali”, are ten Psalms to be recited as a repent<strong>an</strong>ce for certa<strong>in</strong> s<strong>in</strong>s;<br />
“Sefer Hamidot” is a collection <strong>of</strong> practical advice which has been gle<strong>an</strong>ed <strong>from</strong> Torah<br />
sources <strong>an</strong>d is presented as epigrams or maxims <strong>an</strong>d arr<strong>an</strong>ged alphabetically by<br />
268<br />
Telephone conversations with C<strong>an</strong>nu, Rabbi Eliezer Botzer, Rabbi Oded David, op. cit.<br />
269<br />
Happy 24th birthday <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi India (www.travelblog.org/Asia/India/Uttar-<br />
Pradesh/Var<strong>an</strong>asi/blog-206289.html - accessed 13 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2010).<br />
270<br />
“Where <strong>the</strong> spirit moves <strong>the</strong>m” Ha’aretz onl<strong>in</strong>e , 14 September 2004, (www.haaretz.com/where<strong>the</strong>-spirit-moves-<strong>the</strong>m-1.134813<br />
- accessed 10 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012); Nehama David,<br />
(www.yeshmea<strong>in</strong>.com/47811/abut - accessed 15 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2010).<br />
271<br />
Breslever Shabbat Songs,<br />
(www.breslev.co.il/articles/judaism/jewish_culture/breslever_shabbat_songs.aspx?id=18421&l<strong>an</strong>guage<br />
=english – accessed 6 July 2011).
56<br />
topics. 272 It was probably <strong>the</strong>se books, or at least some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m, which Ronen saw <strong>in</strong><br />
this guest house.<br />
I immediately felt at home. ... Avraham prepared a small room for me next to <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>, with<br />
a bed <strong>an</strong>d a f<strong>an</strong>. The w<strong>in</strong>dow looked out onto <strong>the</strong> G<strong>an</strong>ges River. (pp.353-54)<br />
The G<strong>an</strong>ga Guest House is situated close to <strong>the</strong> G<strong>an</strong>ges River which is on <strong>the</strong> eastern<br />
side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> guest house <strong>an</strong>d thus Ronen could easily see it <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dow <strong>of</strong> his third<br />
floor room. 273<br />
[Ronen telephoned his wife who <strong>in</strong>formed him that she had] called Rabbi Ovadiah Yosef<br />
to ask him how I should proceed on Shabbat. „The Rabbi said that s<strong>in</strong>ce you are <strong>in</strong> a state<br />
<strong>of</strong> pikuach nefesh [d<strong>an</strong>ger to life] you should cont<strong>in</strong>ue travel<strong>in</strong>g on Shabbat.‟ [However<br />
when <strong>the</strong> Rabbi heard that Ronen was <strong>in</strong> a safe place, he said should stay <strong>the</strong>re over<br />
Shabbat.] (p.354)<br />
Rabbi Ovadiah Yosef was born <strong>in</strong> Baghdad <strong>in</strong> 1920 <strong>an</strong>d four years later immigrated to<br />
Jerusalem. Between 1958 <strong>an</strong>d 1965, he served as a day<strong>an</strong> (Rabb<strong>in</strong>ical judge) on <strong>the</strong><br />
Jerusalem District Rabb<strong>in</strong>ical Court. He was <strong>the</strong>n elevated to <strong>the</strong> Supreme Rabb<strong>in</strong>ical<br />
Court <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> 1965 became <strong>the</strong> Sefaradi Chief Rabbi <strong>of</strong> Tel-Aviv, a position which he<br />
held until he was elected <strong>in</strong> 1973 as <strong>the</strong> Sefaradi Chief Rabbi <strong>of</strong> Israel. For <strong>the</strong> next ten<br />
years he held this position. In 1984, <strong>the</strong> Shas political party was founded <strong>in</strong> Israel under<br />
<strong>the</strong> leadership <strong>of</strong> Rabbi Yosef <strong>an</strong>d he rema<strong>in</strong>s its spiritual leader today. This party<br />
represents <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>terests <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> religiously observ<strong>an</strong>t Sefaradi Jews. Rabbi Yosef has<br />
written numerous responsa <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>se are noted for cit<strong>in</strong>g almost every source regard<strong>in</strong>g<br />
a specific topic, <strong>an</strong>d he is regarded as one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> greatest Rabbis <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> generation. 274<br />
Numerous people submit religious questions to Rabbi Yosef for him to <strong>an</strong>swer <strong>an</strong>d<br />
amongst <strong>the</strong>se questions was one by Ronen‟s wife ask<strong>in</strong>g what Ronen should do that<br />
Shabbat <strong>in</strong> view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> life threaten<strong>in</strong>g conditions which he faced. There is a pr<strong>in</strong>ciple<br />
that pikuach nefesh [d<strong>an</strong>ger to life] overrides Shabbat <strong>an</strong>d this is even so when <strong>the</strong>re is<br />
a doubt whe<strong>the</strong>r it is a case <strong>of</strong> pikuach nefesh. Not only may one desecrate Shabbat to<br />
save lives, one is obligated to do so <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> quicker one acts, <strong>the</strong> more one is to be<br />
praised. 275 Even if afterwards it were to be found unnecessary for some reason to have<br />
desecrated Shabbat, one will have still done a great th<strong>in</strong>g. 276 Usually pikuach nefesh is<br />
associated with a person hav<strong>in</strong>g some illness which could even remotely be life<br />
threaten<strong>in</strong>g. However, this is not always <strong>the</strong> case, A person c<strong>an</strong> be completely healthy<br />
but <strong>the</strong> situation could be such that could lead to a d<strong>an</strong>ger to life, Examples could be if<br />
272<br />
Wikipedia: Nachm<strong>an</strong> <strong>of</strong> Breslov – accessed 7 July 2011; Rabbi Nachm<strong>an</strong>: Overview II<br />
(www.azamra.org/Torah/Introduction/Overview2.htm - accessed 7 July 2011).<br />
273<br />
Tourist Guide Map Var<strong>an</strong>asi, op. cit.<br />
274<br />
Wikipedia: Ovadia Yosef – accessed 26 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012; Wikipedia: Shas – accessed 26 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012.<br />
275<br />
Rabbi Yehoshua Neuwirth , Shemirat Shabbat Kehichata (Jerusalem, 1979), vol.1, chap.32, par.1.<br />
276 Ibid., par.7.
57<br />
<strong>the</strong>re were a fire <strong>in</strong> a build<strong>in</strong>g or serious flood<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> area or <strong>an</strong> electric power l<strong>in</strong>e<br />
had fallen <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> street. In all such cases, one c<strong>an</strong> desecrate Shabbat to elim<strong>in</strong>ate such a<br />
d<strong>an</strong>ger. 277<br />
Ronen was <strong>in</strong> such a situation, s<strong>in</strong>ce if he were to be caught by <strong>the</strong> police, he would<br />
have immediately been returned to <strong>the</strong> jail, with <strong>the</strong> life threaten<strong>in</strong>g conditions <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
Were it not for <strong>the</strong> temporary safety <strong>of</strong> Habayit Hayehudi, <strong>the</strong> safest solution for him<br />
would have been to travel as quickly as possible, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g on Shabbat, towards gett<strong>in</strong>g<br />
out <strong>of</strong> India.<br />
Avraham called me to immerse <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> mikvah, which he had improvised on <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>from</strong> a<br />
water t<strong>an</strong>k. ... It was <strong>an</strong> awesome experience. (p.355)<br />
Before each Shabbat <strong>the</strong>re are various preparations which are done <strong>in</strong> honour <strong>of</strong><br />
Shabbat. One should wash one‟s whole body <strong>in</strong> hot water, or at a m<strong>in</strong>imum, one‟s<br />
h<strong>an</strong>ds <strong>an</strong>d face (<strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> places where one goes barefooted one‟s feet). 278 Some people,<br />
especially Chasidim, also immerse <strong>in</strong> a mikvah. 279 A mikvah is a ritual bath made to<br />
certa<strong>in</strong> rigid specifications. In <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> a mikvah for just men, one may use ord<strong>in</strong>ary<br />
tap water, as dist<strong>in</strong>ct <strong>from</strong> non-drawn water which has to be used <strong>in</strong> a women‟s<br />
mikvah. 280 For both a men‟s <strong>an</strong>d women‟s mikvah, <strong>the</strong> water must be “stationery”,<br />
namely <strong>the</strong>re must be no leakage <strong>of</strong> water <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> mikvah, <strong>an</strong>d also <strong>the</strong> mikvah must<br />
not be classed as a “vessel”. 281 The def<strong>in</strong>ition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> term “vessel” <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> mikvah<br />
context will be expla<strong>in</strong>ed below.<br />
The plac<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> a mikvah on a ro<strong>of</strong>, as was <strong>the</strong> case <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi mikvah, is ra<strong>the</strong>r<br />
unusual. However, <strong>in</strong> a book written <strong>in</strong> 1930, Rabbi David Miller writes about mikvahs<br />
<strong>an</strong>d how one c<strong>an</strong> easily build one <strong>in</strong> one‟s home! 282 Incidentally, <strong>the</strong> book came under a<br />
lot <strong>of</strong> criticism, s<strong>in</strong>ce he argued that <strong>the</strong> New York tap water did not come under <strong>the</strong><br />
category <strong>of</strong> “drawn water” <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>refore could be used <strong>in</strong> a women‟s mikvah. 283<br />
However, here we are talk<strong>in</strong>g about a men‟s mikvah, where one c<strong>an</strong> use tap water, <strong>an</strong>d<br />
so even if one does not accept Rabbi Miller‟s views on this po<strong>in</strong>t, it does not affect <strong>the</strong><br />
validity <strong>of</strong> his o<strong>the</strong>r po<strong>in</strong>ts.<br />
For <strong>the</strong> materials for <strong>the</strong> construction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> vessel for <strong>the</strong> mikvah, Rabbi Miller<br />
suggested amongst o<strong>the</strong>r th<strong>in</strong>gs wood which was suitably l<strong>in</strong>ed to prevent water<br />
277<br />
Ibid., par.16.<br />
278<br />
Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 260:1 <strong>an</strong>d Rema; Mishnah Berurah 260:1.<br />
279<br />
Rabbi Simchah Rab<strong>in</strong>owitz, Piskei Teshuvot, vol.1. 88:1.<br />
280<br />
Ibid., 88:6.<br />
281<br />
Ibid.; Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Yoreh Deah 201: 2, 6.<br />
282<br />
Rabbi David Miller, The Secret <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Jew, (Oakl<strong>an</strong>d, California, 1930), chap.19.<br />
283<br />
Rabbi David Miller’s The Secret <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Jew (www.homemikveh.org/sotj/sotj.html - accessed 1 July<br />
2011).
58<br />
leakage, or galv<strong>an</strong>ized sheet-metal. (“Galv<strong>an</strong>iz<strong>in</strong>g” is done by electroplat<strong>in</strong>g a layer <strong>of</strong><br />
z<strong>in</strong>c on to <strong>the</strong> iron <strong>in</strong> order to prevent rust<strong>in</strong>g.) 284<br />
Even though mikvahs are usually built at ground level or below <strong>the</strong> ground level, to<br />
avoid <strong>the</strong> problem <strong>of</strong> it be<strong>in</strong>g a “vessel”, Rabbi Miller expla<strong>in</strong>s how it c<strong>an</strong> be built even<br />
at a higher level. He gives a list <strong>of</strong> rules <strong>an</strong>d conditions to make a vessel <strong>in</strong>to a<br />
permitted receptacle to be used as a mikvah. It must first be made <strong>in</strong>capable <strong>of</strong> hold<strong>in</strong>g<br />
water by mak<strong>in</strong>g a certa<strong>in</strong> size hole at <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> vessel. It is <strong>the</strong>n set<br />
perm<strong>an</strong>ently on <strong>the</strong> ground or build<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>an</strong>d only <strong>the</strong>n is <strong>the</strong> hole mended, but <strong>in</strong> such a<br />
way that when <strong>the</strong> vessel is lifted <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> ground or build<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>the</strong> repair<strong>in</strong>g material<br />
will come <strong>of</strong>f leav<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> orig<strong>in</strong>al hole. 285<br />
This is very likely <strong>the</strong> method that Eliezer used to construct this mikvah. S<strong>in</strong>ce he<br />
constructed it <strong>from</strong> a water t<strong>an</strong>k, it was obviously made <strong>of</strong> metal.<br />
A similar op<strong>in</strong>ion c<strong>an</strong> also be found <strong>in</strong> Rabbi Simchah Rab<strong>in</strong>owitz series <strong>of</strong> books<br />
“Piskei Teshuvot”, where he writes that a bath tub which has a hole <strong>of</strong> 3.8 centimetres<br />
<strong>in</strong> diameter <strong>an</strong>d is attached to <strong>the</strong> ground c<strong>an</strong> be used accord<strong>in</strong>g to all op<strong>in</strong>ions as a<br />
men‟s mikvah provided it holds <strong>the</strong> correct m<strong>in</strong>imum qu<strong>an</strong>tity <strong>of</strong> water, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> hole is<br />
plugged up to prevent <strong>an</strong>y leakage. 286<br />
To be able to go to a mikvah after a year <strong>an</strong>d a half <strong>in</strong> jail, was clearly to Ronen “<strong>an</strong><br />
awesome experience”.<br />
I dressed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> new Shabbat clo<strong>the</strong>s I was given, org<strong>an</strong>ized my room <strong>in</strong> honour <strong>of</strong><br />
Shabbat. (p.355)<br />
The Talmud states that one‟s Shabbat garments should not be like one‟s weekday<br />
garments. 287 The outer garments, such as a jacket <strong>an</strong>d hat should be reserved especially<br />
for Shabbat <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y should be nicer th<strong>an</strong> one‟s weekday ones. They should be cle<strong>an</strong><br />
<strong>an</strong>d laundered, but if <strong>the</strong>y are not dirty <strong>the</strong>y don‟t have to be washed each week. The<br />
<strong>in</strong>ner garments, provided <strong>the</strong>y are cle<strong>an</strong>, need not be reserved for Shabbat. However, it<br />
is nice that one‟s o<strong>the</strong>r garments, o<strong>the</strong>r th<strong>an</strong> underwear, also be reserved for Shabbat. 288<br />
284<br />
Rabbi David Miller, op. cit.<br />
285<br />
Ibid.<br />
286<br />
Piskei Teshuvot, op. cit., vol.1 chap. 88 fn.44.<br />
287 Babyloni<strong>an</strong> Talmud, Shabbat 113a.<br />
288 Piskei Teshuvot, op. cit., vol.3, 262:4.
59<br />
It is stated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch that <strong>the</strong> house must also be arr<strong>an</strong>ged <strong>in</strong> honour <strong>of</strong><br />
Shabbat. All <strong>the</strong> tables should be covered with tablecloths, which are left on<br />
throughout Shabbat. The beds should also have covers over <strong>the</strong>m. 289<br />
Ronen followed all <strong>the</strong>se <strong>in</strong>structions with regards to his clo<strong>the</strong>s <strong>an</strong>d to his room.<br />
When <strong>the</strong> sun beg<strong>an</strong> to set, Avraham went up to <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> dressed splendidly <strong>in</strong> complete<br />
Chasidic garb, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g a shtreimel. (p.355)<br />
Shabbat beg<strong>in</strong>s just before sunset on a Friday. The duration <strong>of</strong> Shabbat is about 25<br />
hours. On <strong>the</strong> face <strong>of</strong> it, it might seem str<strong>an</strong>ge that it is longer th<strong>an</strong> 24 hours – <strong>the</strong><br />
normal length <strong>of</strong> a day. The reason is that it has not been resolved as to when <strong>the</strong><br />
Jewish day beg<strong>in</strong>s. It could be at sunset, or it could be when it is dark, namely, when<br />
one c<strong>an</strong> see 3 medium stars. In addition, one must add some m<strong>in</strong>utes to both before <strong>the</strong><br />
commencement <strong>an</strong>d after <strong>the</strong> term<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>of</strong> Shabbat. One <strong>the</strong>refore beg<strong>in</strong>s Shabbat,<br />
some m<strong>in</strong>utes before sunset <strong>an</strong>d f<strong>in</strong>ishes it some m<strong>in</strong>utes after dark. 290 All this makes<br />
its length about 25 hours. On 30 September 2005, <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> sunset <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi was<br />
17.45, <strong>an</strong>d accord<strong>in</strong>g to custom, <strong>the</strong> commencement <strong>of</strong> Shabbat was at about 17.25. 291<br />
Before <strong>the</strong> commencement <strong>of</strong> every Shabbat, Chasidim put on <strong>the</strong>ir traditional Shabbat<br />
garb. Chasidism is a movement which was founded <strong>in</strong> Eastern Europe <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> 18th<br />
century by Rabbi Yisrael Baal Shem Tov. 292 Today <strong>the</strong>re are numerous different groups<br />
<strong>of</strong> Chasidim, who are named after <strong>the</strong> town <strong>in</strong> Eastern Europe where <strong>the</strong>y orig<strong>in</strong>ated<br />
<strong>from</strong>. These <strong>in</strong>clude Gerrer, Belz, Satmar, Lubavitch, Breslov, Amsh<strong>in</strong>ov <strong>an</strong>d m<strong>an</strong>y<br />
m<strong>an</strong>y o<strong>the</strong>rs. Almost all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se groups have <strong>the</strong>ir own Rebbe, which is a hereditary<br />
<strong>of</strong>fice. 293 A notable exception is Breslov. Their only Rebbe was Rabbi Nachm<strong>an</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
Breslov (a great gr<strong>an</strong>dson <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Baal Shem Tov) who lived between 1772 <strong>an</strong>d 1810,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d he had no successor. Until this day, <strong>in</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> appo<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g a new Rebbe, <strong>the</strong> Breslov<br />
Chasidim cont<strong>in</strong>ue to turn to Rebbi Nachm<strong>an</strong>'s teach<strong>in</strong>gs for <strong>in</strong>spiration <strong>an</strong>d guid<strong>an</strong>ce<br />
<strong>an</strong>d still look on him as “<strong>the</strong> Rebbe”. 294<br />
M<strong>an</strong>y <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> various Chasidic groups have a dress code for both weekdays <strong>an</strong>d Shabbat,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>re are some subtle <strong>an</strong>d also not so subtle differences between <strong>the</strong> way different<br />
groups dress. Contrary to popular belief, <strong>the</strong> Chasidic garb has little or even noth<strong>in</strong>g to<br />
do with <strong>the</strong> way <strong>the</strong> Polish nobles once dressed. A common general feature <strong>of</strong> dress is<br />
that Chasidim wear black jackets <strong>an</strong>d trousers <strong>an</strong>d white shirts. (Gerrer Chasidim tuck<br />
289 Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 262:1 <strong>an</strong>d gloss <strong>of</strong> Rema; Mishnah Berurah 262:1-2; Biur Halachah on<br />
Mishnah Berurah 262 “yesader shulch<strong>an</strong>”.<br />
290 Ibid., 261:1, 2; Mishnah Berurah 261:19, 23.<br />
291 Acknowledgements to Rabbi Dr. Eliyahu Simons <strong>of</strong> Haifa for <strong>in</strong>formation.<br />
292 Wikipedia: Hasidic Judaism - accessed 3 July 2011.<br />
293 Wikipedia: List <strong>of</strong> Hasidic dynasties – accessed 11 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012.<br />
294 Wikipedia: Breslov (Hasidic group) – accessed 3 July 2011.
60<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir trousers <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong>ir socks <strong>an</strong>d this is called hoyzn-zokn. 295 ) On weekdays, <strong>the</strong><br />
jackets <strong>of</strong> Chasidim are <strong>of</strong>ten made <strong>of</strong> cloth <strong>an</strong>d are called a rekel <strong>an</strong>d on Shabbat <strong>an</strong>d<br />
Yom-Tov, <strong>the</strong>y are made <strong>of</strong> silk <strong>an</strong>d is called a bekishe or kaft<strong>an</strong>. When pray<strong>in</strong>g, all<br />
Chasidim wear a gartel, which is like a belt, <strong>an</strong>d this is worn to separate <strong>the</strong> upper part<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> body <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> lower part. 296<br />
With regards to <strong>the</strong> headgears <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> different Chasidic groups, <strong>the</strong>re are m<strong>an</strong>y<br />
differences. Although on weekdays <strong>the</strong>y all wear black hats, <strong>the</strong>y are <strong>of</strong> different<br />
designs depend<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong> Chasidic group. Some, such as Gerrer <strong>an</strong>d Slonimer wear a<br />
round hat, Stol<strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d Emunas Yisrael a p<strong>in</strong>ched hat, while Satmer have a hat which<br />
resembles a bowler hat with rounded edges on <strong>the</strong> brim. 297<br />
On Shabbat <strong>an</strong>d Yom Tov, most Chasidim, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Breslov, Belz, Satmar, Bobov<br />
wear a shtreimel. A “shtreimel” is a fur hat made out <strong>of</strong> sable tails. It is very expensive<br />
<strong>an</strong>d each one c<strong>an</strong> cost m<strong>an</strong>y thous<strong>an</strong>d dollars. Gerrer, Amsh<strong>in</strong>ov <strong>an</strong>d a few o<strong>the</strong>rs wear<br />
a spodik, which is also made <strong>of</strong> fur but is narrower <strong>an</strong>d taller th<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong> shtreimel. The<br />
Lubavitch, however, wear <strong>the</strong> same type <strong>of</strong> hat as is worn on a weekday. 298<br />
Eliezer was a Breslov Chasid. Although <strong>the</strong> book only directly mentions his shtreimel,<br />
<strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> expression “dressed splendidly <strong>in</strong> complete Chasidic garb”, we c<strong>an</strong> conclude<br />
that he almost certa<strong>in</strong>ly wore a bekishe with a gartel <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> middle.<br />
M<strong>an</strong>y Israeli trekkers came, with long hair, covered <strong>in</strong> tattoos, <strong>an</strong>d t<strong>an</strong>ned <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir long<br />
hours on <strong>the</strong> beaches. (p.355)<br />
In Israel <strong>the</strong>re is m<strong>an</strong>datory army service for three years for all youth reach<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> age<br />
<strong>of</strong> 18. After this m<strong>an</strong>datory service, m<strong>an</strong>y <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> youth, particular those who are far<br />
<strong>from</strong> Jewish religious observ<strong>an</strong>ce, trek to India. They are known as “backpackers”. The<br />
number, 50,000 Israelis, has been quoted as those travell<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>nually to India, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y<br />
are aged ma<strong>in</strong>ly between 22 <strong>an</strong>d 35. They travel to <strong>the</strong> Far East search<strong>in</strong>g for<br />
“spirituality”. However, this “spirituality” is not that <strong>of</strong> Judaism. It is yoga, meditation,<br />
karma, ayurvetic heal<strong>in</strong>g, Buddhism <strong>an</strong>d H<strong>in</strong>duism. All <strong>the</strong>se th<strong>in</strong>gs c<strong>an</strong> be found <strong>in</strong><br />
abund<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> thous<strong>an</strong>ds <strong>of</strong> ashrams (religious retreats) which are scattered across<br />
India. M<strong>an</strong>y <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se ashrams have a guru, who is a spiritual leader whose comm<strong>an</strong>ds<br />
must be followed. There was even a case <strong>of</strong> a Lub<strong>in</strong>er chasid who became a guru!<br />
There are numerous Jews <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se Indi<strong>an</strong> ashrams, some say even a greater number th<strong>an</strong><br />
295<br />
Wikipedia: Ger (Hasidic dynasty) – accessed 3 July 2011.<br />
296<br />
Wikipedia: Hasidic Judaism, op. cit.<br />
297<br />
Ibid., The Hats <strong>of</strong> Borough Park (www.werrnercohen.com/hats.html - accessed 3 July 2011).<br />
298<br />
Wikipedia: Hasidic Judaism, op. cit.; Wikipedia: Shtreimel – accessed 11 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012.
61<br />
Indi<strong>an</strong>s. 299 When <strong>in</strong>terviewed, <strong>an</strong> Israeli army veter<strong>an</strong> aged 24 said, “Our souls need a<br />
perm<strong>an</strong>ent break <strong>from</strong> Israel... There‟s noth<strong>in</strong>g for us back <strong>in</strong> Israel.” 300<br />
In some places, <strong>the</strong>re are so m<strong>an</strong>y young Israelis that <strong>the</strong>re are signs <strong>in</strong> Hebrew <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
stores. Frequently, some proprietors c<strong>an</strong> speak some Hebrew. 301 Food <strong>an</strong>d board are<br />
cheap <strong>in</strong> India. A room with a pl<strong>an</strong>k bed <strong>an</strong>d a p<strong>in</strong>k mosquito net costs just five dollars<br />
a night <strong>an</strong>d sleep<strong>in</strong>g under a tree is free. Kitchens with names like <strong>the</strong> “Outback Indi<strong>an</strong><br />
Israeli Restaur<strong>an</strong>t” come with Hebrew-speak<strong>in</strong>g H<strong>in</strong>dus who ladle vegetari<strong>an</strong> fare for a<br />
few cents a plate. (The reason for vegetari<strong>an</strong> food is that H<strong>in</strong>dus are strict vegetari<strong>an</strong>s<br />
<strong>an</strong>d probably not because m<strong>an</strong>y <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Israelis trekk<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> India are concerned with<br />
kashrut.) 302<br />
The Israelis have almost taken over Pahar G<strong>an</strong>j which is a neighbourhood located just<br />
<strong>in</strong> front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> New Delhi Railway Station. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> signs <strong>in</strong> front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cafes <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are <strong>in</strong> Hebrew <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> fare is Israeli salad (cucumbers, tomatoes, cori<strong>an</strong>der) <strong>an</strong>d falafel,<br />
made by desis (a term which refers to people, cultures, <strong>an</strong>d products <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong><br />
subcont<strong>in</strong>ent) taught by Israelis. 303<br />
Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se Israeli youth have been tattooed <strong>in</strong> India. It has been written <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />
Israelis <strong>in</strong> India, “... a gaily decorated group <strong>of</strong> Israelis ... brightly coloured hair,<br />
multiple tattoos, more pierc<strong>in</strong>gs th<strong>an</strong> a p<strong>in</strong> cushion <strong>an</strong>d tot<strong>in</strong>g requisite drums <strong>an</strong>d o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
b<strong>an</strong>gles, <strong>the</strong>y grew greater attention th<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong> b<strong>an</strong>gled Rajasth<strong>an</strong>is. It might have been<br />
because <strong>the</strong>y were so loud that everyone turned to stare, or was it <strong>the</strong>ir attire?” 304 In <strong>the</strong><br />
Indi<strong>an</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Goa <strong>the</strong>re is even <strong>an</strong> Israeli tattoo parlour. 305 Not only are <strong>the</strong> Israelis<br />
tattooed but almost every o<strong>the</strong>r Israeli ones meets <strong>in</strong> Pahar G<strong>an</strong>j has dreads (long<br />
matted hair) <strong>an</strong>d multiple body pierc<strong>in</strong>gs. 306<br />
The various beaches <strong>in</strong> Goa, such as Anjuna beach, which is famous for its tr<strong>an</strong>ce<br />
parties, are full <strong>of</strong> Israelis who are sunbath<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>re. 307 They are <strong>of</strong>ten on <strong>the</strong>se beaches,<br />
sometimes for 24 hours a day, with beach parties accomp<strong>an</strong>ied by music go<strong>in</strong>g on<br />
299<br />
From Goa to Gemara, op. cit.<br />
300<br />
Karma Kosher Conscripts <strong>in</strong> New-Age Diaspora Seek Refuge <strong>in</strong> Goa<br />
(www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=newsarchive&sid=a12JnKt1Pwlc – accessed 11 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
301<br />
Ay<strong>an</strong>a Shira Haviv, “Next Year <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du”, Israeli Backpackers <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>ir Society” ed. Chaim Noy<br />
<strong>an</strong>d Erik Cohen, (State University <strong>of</strong> New York Press New York, 2005), p.64.<br />
302<br />
Karma Kosher conscripts ..., op. cit.<br />
303<br />
India as backdrop for Israeli debate, (sepiamut<strong>in</strong>y.com/blog/2009/04/15/<strong>in</strong>dia_as_backdr/ -<br />
accessed 11 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
304<br />
Bikebrats: Triplogue – Delhi to Agra (www.bikebrats.com/<strong>in</strong>dia/tr<strong>in</strong>dia1.htm – accessed 25 May<br />
2010).<br />
305 Karma Kosher Conscripts, op. cit.<br />
306 India as backdrop for Israeli debate, op. cit.<br />
307 Karma Kosher Conscripts, op. cit.; Wikipedia: Anjuna – accessed 4 July 2011.
62<br />
throughout <strong>the</strong> night. The noise was such that <strong>the</strong> local population lodged compla<strong>in</strong>ts to<br />
<strong>the</strong> authorities about it, s<strong>in</strong>ce it disturbed <strong>the</strong>ir sleep. 308<br />
Vagator Beach is <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rnmost beach <strong>of</strong> Bardez Taluka, Goa. This beach is divided<br />
<strong>in</strong>to three parts, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m be<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>ten called <strong>the</strong> “Tel Aviv beach” s<strong>in</strong>ce it is almost<br />
entirely occupied by Israelis. It is reported that <strong>the</strong> Israelis tried to prevent <strong>the</strong> local<br />
population <strong>from</strong> us<strong>in</strong>g this beach, but <strong>the</strong>y were warned that <strong>the</strong>y would be expelled en<br />
masse if <strong>the</strong>y cont<strong>in</strong>ued to act this way. 309<br />
Places like Habayit Hayehudi <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi gave a traditional Jewish retreat for <strong>the</strong>se<br />
Israelis.<br />
Avraham conducted <strong>the</strong> prayers with <strong>an</strong> amaz<strong>in</strong>g unity <strong>an</strong>d succeeded <strong>in</strong> reach<strong>in</strong>g<br />
everyone‟s heart. (p.355)<br />
The ma‟ariv (even<strong>in</strong>g) service for Shabbat is preceded by a “Kabbalat Shabbat”<br />
(Welcom<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> Sabbath) service. This Kabbalat Shabbat prelude is <strong>of</strong> relatively late<br />
orig<strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d dates back only to <strong>the</strong> 16th century. It beg<strong>in</strong>s with six Psalms, which<br />
symbolises <strong>the</strong> six week days. This is followed by <strong>the</strong> s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hymn “Lecha<br />
Dodi” which was composed by Rabbi Shlomo Halevi Alkabetz, a Safed Kabbalist<br />
liv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> 16th century. The verses <strong>of</strong> Lecha Dodi are <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> acrostic format with <strong>the</strong><br />
first letter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first eight st<strong>an</strong>zas spell<strong>in</strong>g out <strong>the</strong> author‟s name. Orig<strong>in</strong>ally, <strong>in</strong> Safed<br />
<strong>the</strong>y would go out <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> fields <strong>an</strong>d face <strong>the</strong> western horizon where <strong>the</strong> sun was<br />
sett<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> order to greet <strong>the</strong> Shabbat bride as she arrives. Today, dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> last verse, <strong>the</strong> congregation turns round to face <strong>the</strong> sett<strong>in</strong>g sun on <strong>the</strong> western<br />
horizon, or accord<strong>in</strong>g to o<strong>the</strong>r customs, <strong>the</strong> door. 310<br />
There are numerous tunes which are sung for Lecha Dodi, depend<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong><br />
community. The Breslov have a dist<strong>in</strong>ctive melody for Lecha Dodi which was<br />
composed by Rebbe Nachm<strong>an</strong>, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>re is a record<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> it with Rabbi Lazar Brody<br />
s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g with a musical accomp<strong>an</strong>iment by <strong>the</strong> Kisufim Trio. 311 There are some<br />
feedbacks on this record<strong>in</strong>g: “It br<strong>in</strong>gs tears <strong>in</strong> my eyes when I watch this always”,<br />
“much love <strong>an</strong>d respect ... breslov is a great <strong>in</strong>spiration to me ... moshiach soon!”.<br />
“MARAVILLOSO nigun!”, “one <strong>of</strong> my favourite videos everrrrr (sic)”. 312 It is very<br />
likely that this was <strong>the</strong> tune that Eliezer sung <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi.<br />
308<br />
India as backdrop for Israeli debate, op. cit.<br />
309<br />
Ibid.; A brief <strong>in</strong>troduction to <strong>the</strong> Vagator Beach, (travelgoa.co.uk/a-brief-<strong>in</strong>troduction-to-<strong>the</strong>vagator-beach/<br />
- accessed 4 July 2011).<br />
310<br />
Siddur – Kabbalat Shabbat service; Piskei Teshuvot, op. cit., 267:3 <strong>an</strong>d footnotes; Wikipedia: Lekhah<br />
Dodi – accessed 5 July 2011.<br />
311<br />
Rebbe Nachm<strong>an</strong>’s Lecho Dodi Niggun (www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fejk0AED0S8- accessed 5 July<br />
2011).<br />
312 Ibid.
63<br />
A fundamental <strong>of</strong> Breslov teach<strong>in</strong>gs is to always be happy <strong>an</strong>d Reb Noson (who was<br />
Rebbe Nachm<strong>an</strong>‟s closest student) told a m<strong>an</strong> who had a lot <strong>of</strong> trouble, to d<strong>an</strong>ce every<br />
day. Indeed, Breslov Chasidim d<strong>an</strong>ce after almost every service, <strong>an</strong>d this <strong>of</strong> course<br />
<strong>in</strong>cludes <strong>the</strong> Shabbat eve service. Based on kabbalistic pr<strong>in</strong>ciples, <strong>the</strong> d<strong>an</strong>c<strong>in</strong>g is done<br />
<strong>in</strong> a counter-clockwise direction. 313 It is likely that it was <strong>the</strong> melodies <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> d<strong>an</strong>c<strong>in</strong>g<br />
which “succeeded <strong>in</strong> reach<strong>in</strong>g everyone‟s heart” that Friday night <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi.<br />
The popularity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Breslov Shabbat eve service may be illustrated <strong>from</strong> that held <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Breslov Synagogue <strong>in</strong> Safed, Israel, which is <strong>the</strong> largest Synagogue <strong>in</strong> that city. It is<br />
reported that <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> summer, for this service <strong>the</strong> synagogue is filled to capacity with<br />
some worshippers hav<strong>in</strong>g to st<strong>an</strong>d throughout <strong>the</strong> service. 314<br />
Afterwards Avraham <strong>an</strong>d his wife served a delicious meal. (p.355)<br />
Follow<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> Shabbat even<strong>in</strong>g service, <strong>the</strong>re is <strong>the</strong> Shabbat even<strong>in</strong>g meal. This meal<br />
beg<strong>in</strong>s with <strong>the</strong> recitation <strong>of</strong> kiddush (s<strong>an</strong>ctification over <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>e). 315 The meals eaten<br />
on Shabbat should be more elaborate th<strong>an</strong> those eaten on weekdays. It is recommended<br />
to have meat, fish <strong>an</strong>d o<strong>the</strong>r nice dishes at <strong>the</strong> Shabbat meals. If one is f<strong>in</strong><strong>an</strong>cially<br />
strapped, it is suggested that one cuts down on one‟s weekday budget for food, <strong>in</strong> order<br />
to honour Shabbat with nice food. It is written <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Talmud that if one detracts <strong>from</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> money spent for food for Shabbat, one will have a lower <strong>in</strong>come that year, <strong>an</strong>d<br />
conversely, if one spends more, one will have a greater <strong>in</strong>come dur<strong>in</strong>g that year. 316<br />
With regards to eat<strong>in</strong>g on Shabbat, Rebbe Nachm<strong>an</strong> <strong>of</strong> Breslov said, “One should be<br />
extremely joyous on <strong>the</strong> holy Shabbos [Shabbat] <strong>an</strong>d not show even <strong>the</strong> slightest trace<br />
<strong>of</strong> sadness or worry. Simply „take delight <strong>in</strong> G-d‟ <strong>an</strong>d enjoy all <strong>the</strong> pleasures <strong>of</strong><br />
Shabbos, <strong>in</strong> food <strong>an</strong>d dr<strong>in</strong>k, as well as <strong>in</strong> f<strong>in</strong>e cloth<strong>in</strong>g accord<strong>in</strong>g to one‟s me<strong>an</strong>s. For<br />
<strong>the</strong> eat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> Shabbos is entirely spiritual, entirely holy, <strong>an</strong>d it ascends to a completely<br />
different place th<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong> eat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ord<strong>in</strong>ary days <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> week.” 317<br />
Hence <strong>the</strong> delicious meal served on Shabbat at Habayit Hayehudi <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi.<br />
Avraham shared sweet, beautiful, Torah <strong>in</strong>sights <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>n we all jo<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>in</strong> s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />
Shabbat zemirot. (p.356)<br />
It is customary dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> Shabbat meals to s<strong>in</strong>g zemirot <strong>an</strong>d to discuss words <strong>of</strong> Torah.<br />
Shabbat zemirot are hymns sung at <strong>the</strong> table on Shabbat. Some are especially for <strong>the</strong><br />
313<br />
Breslov eikh she-hu (www.scribd.com/doc/27747171/Breslov-Customs-Weekdays -accessed 28 May<br />
2010).<br />
314<br />
The Breslov Synagogue (www.safed.co.il/breslov-synagogue.html - accessed 5 July 2011).<br />
315<br />
Mishnah Berurah 271:1.<br />
316<br />
Babyloni<strong>an</strong> Talmud, Beitzah 16a; Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 242:1; Mishnah Berurah 242:1, 2, 4.<br />
317<br />
A Simple Jew – Eat<strong>in</strong>g on Shabbos (asimplejew.blogspot.com/2005/09/eat<strong>in</strong>g-on-shabbos.html –<br />
accessed 11 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).
64<br />
Shabbat eve meal, o<strong>the</strong>rs for <strong>the</strong> Shabbat morn<strong>in</strong>g meal, o<strong>the</strong>rs for <strong>the</strong> third Shabbat<br />
meal, whilst o<strong>the</strong>rs c<strong>an</strong> be sung at <strong>an</strong>y <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Shabbat meals. The melodies vary greatly<br />
<strong>from</strong> community to community. M<strong>an</strong>y <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se zemirot were composed dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />
Middle Ages; <strong>in</strong> some cases <strong>the</strong> authorship is known <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs it is not. 318 Some <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> zemirot are universally known <strong>an</strong>d appear <strong>in</strong> almost every zemirot book <strong>an</strong>d siddur.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>rs such as “Shalom lecha Yom Hasheviyi” by Rabbi Yehudah Halevi are much<br />
more difficult to f<strong>in</strong>d. 319<br />
The Breslov Chasidim are famous for <strong>the</strong>ir treasury <strong>of</strong> rich <strong>an</strong>d varied melodies. They<br />
have brought out a large number which appear on CDs, <strong>an</strong>d also on <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternet <strong>an</strong>d<br />
<strong>the</strong>y c<strong>an</strong> sometimes be downloaded. Music has <strong>in</strong> fact held a central part amongst <strong>the</strong><br />
Breslov Chasidim <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>ir families place a tremendous emphasis on s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />
zemirot on Shabbat. M<strong>an</strong>y <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se melodies were composed by Rebbe Nachm<strong>an</strong>. 320<br />
On <strong>the</strong> subject <strong>of</strong> zemirot, it is written <strong>in</strong> “Likutei Mohar<strong>an</strong>” that Rebbe Nachm<strong>an</strong><br />
would repeatedly tell Jews to s<strong>in</strong>g zemirot on Shabbat <strong>an</strong>d would get <strong>an</strong>gry at <strong>an</strong>yone<br />
who did not make <strong>the</strong> effort to s<strong>in</strong>g zemirot on Shabbat <strong>an</strong>d motzaei Shabbat. Until his<br />
f<strong>in</strong>al illness, he himself would throughout his lifetime s<strong>in</strong>g m<strong>an</strong>y zemirot on Shabbat<br />
<strong>an</strong>d motzaei Shabbat. 321<br />
No details are given <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> book <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “Torah <strong>in</strong>sights” which Eliezer gave that night,<br />
but it is quite possible that he gave material <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> Rebbe Nachm<strong>an</strong>‟s “Sippurei<br />
Ma‟asiyot”, stories with deep spiritual lessons, 322 <strong>an</strong>d/or <strong>from</strong> “Likutei Mohar<strong>an</strong>” 323 on<br />
that particular week‟s parashah (Read<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Torah) which was Nitzavim.<br />
I saw how <strong>the</strong> Israelis enjoyed <strong>the</strong>mselves, chatt<strong>in</strong>g toge<strong>the</strong>r. (p.356)<br />
S<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong> policy <strong>of</strong> Habayit Hayehudi is to provide meals for all those Israelis<br />
attend<strong>in</strong>g, it is most likely that most, if not almost all, <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Israelis who came to <strong>the</strong><br />
service stayed for <strong>the</strong> meal. It addition, places like Habayit Hayehudi <strong>an</strong>d Chabad<br />
Houses act as meet<strong>in</strong>g places for <strong>the</strong> various Israeli backpackers <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> area to meet<br />
each o<strong>the</strong>r <strong>an</strong>d exch<strong>an</strong>ge news.<br />
Even outside <strong>the</strong> framework <strong>of</strong> Habayit Hayehudi <strong>an</strong>d Chabad Houses, Israeli<br />
backpackers who were completely secular <strong>in</strong> Israel, would get toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Far East<br />
<strong>an</strong>d have a Shabbat service <strong>an</strong>d d<strong>in</strong>ner toge<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong> service <strong>of</strong>ten be<strong>in</strong>g conducted by a<br />
318<br />
Wikipedia: Zemirot – accessed 6 July 2011.<br />
319<br />
Rabbe<strong>in</strong>u Simchah, Machzor Vitri (Ish Hurwitz edition), pp.147-48.<br />
320<br />
Breslever Shabbat Songs<br />
(www.breslev.co.il/articles/judaism/jewish_culture/breslever_shabbat_songs.aspx?id=18421&l<strong>an</strong>guage<br />
=english – accessed 6 July 2011).<br />
321<br />
Likutei Mohar<strong>an</strong> vol.2, par.104.<br />
322 Wikipedia: Nachm<strong>an</strong> <strong>of</strong> Breslov, published works – accessed 7 July 2011.<br />
323 Likutei Mohar<strong>an</strong> p.54b par.44; p.109a par.181.
65<br />
person who was formerly religious. One <strong>of</strong> those who attended such a service wrote “I<br />
never went to synagogue <strong>in</strong> my life [<strong>in</strong> Israel] <strong>an</strong>d I‟m sure I‟ll never go when I come<br />
back. I‟m not religious <strong>an</strong>d I th<strong>in</strong>k <strong>the</strong> haredim [ultra-Orthodox Jews] (bracketed words<br />
<strong>in</strong> orig<strong>in</strong>al) are one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> biggest problems <strong>in</strong> Israel ... But here, it‟s a whole o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
th<strong>in</strong>g...” 324 Ano<strong>the</strong>r secular Israeli wrote, “In Israel I c<strong>an</strong>‟t get <strong>in</strong>to this without putt<strong>in</strong>g<br />
myself <strong>in</strong> a bad situation. It‟s ei<strong>the</strong>r all or noth<strong>in</strong>g over <strong>the</strong>re ... Tonight was different.<br />
I‟m really <strong>in</strong>terested <strong>in</strong> my Jewish side, <strong>an</strong>d I love all those old Hasidic songs too ... I<br />
c<strong>an</strong> th<strong>in</strong>k about religion <strong>in</strong> a completely different way here. In <strong>the</strong> East it‟s OK for me<br />
to be with o<strong>the</strong>r hilonim [secular Jews] at a Shabbath (sic) service. And it‟s a k<strong>in</strong>d <strong>of</strong> a<br />
relief, to tell you <strong>the</strong> truth, to see that I don‟t have to go to <strong>an</strong> ashram to be spiritual.” 325<br />
There is also a comradeship between Israeli backpackers, who meet for <strong>the</strong> first time <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Far East. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m wrote that when he had severe food poison<strong>in</strong>g, a “group <strong>of</strong><br />
Israeli str<strong>an</strong>gers” nursed him back to health, even though this caused <strong>the</strong>m a two day<br />
delay <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir trip. He described this as “Israelis stick toge<strong>the</strong>r.” 326<br />
After <strong>the</strong> meal I went to sleep on a real bed! (p.356)<br />
In addition to eat<strong>in</strong>g at Habayit Hayehudi, <strong>the</strong>y would occasionally let people sleep<br />
<strong>the</strong>re over night. 327 Needless to say, this was a world <strong>of</strong> difference <strong>from</strong> sleep<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong><br />
Arthur Road Jail!<br />
This jail was built <strong>in</strong> 1926 <strong>an</strong>d is Mumbai‟s largest <strong>an</strong>d oldest jail. 328 It is located <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
sou<strong>the</strong>rn part <strong>of</strong> Mumbai on S<strong>an</strong>e Gurugi Marg (Arthur Road), <strong>an</strong>d very near to a<br />
Jewish Cemetery. 329 In 1994 it was upgraded to become a central prison <strong>an</strong>d its <strong>of</strong>ficial<br />
name became Bombay Central Prison. However, it is still popularly known as “Arthur<br />
Road Jail”. 330<br />
The conditions for those <strong>in</strong> Arthur Road Jail were (<strong>an</strong>d still are) horrendous <strong>an</strong>d do not<br />
even meet <strong>the</strong> m<strong>in</strong>imum conditions for hum<strong>an</strong> dignity, which even a person convicted<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most he<strong>in</strong>ous crimes is entitled to. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, a person could wait for a number<br />
<strong>of</strong> years just for his trial, whilst <strong>in</strong>carcerated <strong>in</strong> that very same jail.<br />
To beg<strong>in</strong> with, this jail which houses most <strong>of</strong> Mumbai‟s prisoners, is <strong>in</strong>famous for its<br />
overcrowd<strong>in</strong>g. Its <strong>of</strong>ficial capacity is 820 yet <strong>the</strong>re more th<strong>an</strong> 3,400 <strong>in</strong>mates. In a cell<br />
designed to house 50 prisoners are crammed 180 prisoners! There is certa<strong>in</strong>ly no room<br />
324<br />
Israeli Backpackers, op. cit., p.67.<br />
325<br />
Ibid., p.68.<br />
326<br />
Ibid., p.66.<br />
327<br />
Telephone conversation with Rabbi Eliezer Botzer, op. cit.<br />
328<br />
Only Mumbai, 29 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2007, Arthur Road Jail, (onlybombay.blogspot.com/2007/01/arthur-road-<br />
jail.html – accessed 12 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012); Wikipedia: Arthur Road Jail – accessed 10 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2011.<br />
329 Mumbai Map, p.20.<br />
330 Only Mumbai, op. cit.
66<br />
for beds for all <strong>the</strong>se prisoners. They <strong>the</strong>refore have to sleep <strong>in</strong> awkward positions or<br />
have to sleep <strong>in</strong> shifts <strong>of</strong> about three hours. 331<br />
Dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> previous year <strong>an</strong>d a half, Ronen had been <strong>in</strong>carcerated <strong>in</strong> Arthur Road Jail<br />
<strong>in</strong> Mumbai, await<strong>in</strong>g a trial. There he never had “a real bed” <strong>an</strong>d one c<strong>an</strong> thus fully<br />
underst<strong>an</strong>d when Ronen said that that night <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi he slept on a “real bed”.<br />
Apart <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> lack <strong>of</strong> sleep<strong>in</strong>g accommodation, <strong>the</strong> cells are grossly uns<strong>an</strong>itary. A<br />
prisoner <strong>the</strong>re <strong>in</strong> 2006 described it “<strong>the</strong> dirtiest place <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world.” 332 Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
toilets do not have doors <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>mates have to take showers <strong>in</strong> groups as <strong>the</strong> water<br />
supply is limited. 333 Because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se uns<strong>an</strong>itary conditions, <strong>the</strong>re are life threaten<strong>in</strong>g<br />
illnesses such as HIV, tuberculosis, <strong>an</strong>d malaria, which are rife <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> jail, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>se<br />
sometimes result <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> prisoners. 334 It was <strong>in</strong> this jail that Ronen<br />
contracted malaria.<br />
The medical facilities, if one c<strong>an</strong> call <strong>the</strong>m that, are ludicrous. As one prisoner summed<br />
it up, “Even if we have 10 different ailments, we are given <strong>the</strong> same medic<strong>in</strong>e. This has<br />
become a joke amongst all prisoners.” 335<br />
This type <strong>of</strong> “medical treatment” was not limited to Arthur Road Jail. A similar<br />
comment was made at about <strong>the</strong> same period by a prisoner <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r Mumbai jail,<br />
“The medical conditions were horrendous. Doctors gave you paracetamol for <strong>an</strong>y<br />
illness, no matter how serious.” 336<br />
A young wom<strong>an</strong> <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> South <strong>of</strong> Engl<strong>an</strong>d, who spent five years <strong>in</strong> Mumbai jails<br />
before be<strong>in</strong>g found <strong>in</strong>nocent, described <strong>the</strong> food given <strong>in</strong> Arthur Road Jail, “All we<br />
ever ate was lentils <strong>an</strong>d rice which were full <strong>of</strong> stones which cracked my teeth. And it<br />
wasn‟t unusual to f<strong>in</strong>d maggots <strong>an</strong>d o<strong>the</strong>r <strong>in</strong>sects <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> food.” 337<br />
A report issued by “Amnesty International” <strong>in</strong> August 2000, stated that <strong>in</strong>mates at this<br />
prison had repeatedly been beaten <strong>an</strong>d tortured by <strong>the</strong> guards <strong>an</strong>d had been threatened<br />
by reprisals if <strong>the</strong>y compla<strong>in</strong>ed to <strong>the</strong> authorities. 338 Although this report is <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
331<br />
My experience <strong>in</strong> Police custody <strong>an</strong>d Jail (www.ispsquash.com/MCOCA_Jail.HTM – accessed11 July<br />
2011); Wikipedia: Arthur Road Jail, op. cit.; “Indi<strong>an</strong> prisons – rhetoric <strong>an</strong>d reality”, The H<strong>in</strong>du, onl<strong>in</strong>e<br />
edition 20 April 2004; Only Mumbai, op. cit.<br />
332<br />
My experience <strong>in</strong> Police custody <strong>an</strong>d Jail, op. cit.<br />
333<br />
“HIV stalks Arthur Road jail”, Indi<strong>an</strong> Express, 21 November 2004.<br />
334<br />
Wikipedia: Arthur Road Jail, op. cit; HIV stalks Arthur Road jail, op. cit.; “Free after 5 years”, Sunday<br />
Mirror (London), 13 May 2007.<br />
335<br />
My experience <strong>in</strong> Police custody <strong>an</strong>d Jail, op. cit.<br />
336<br />
Free after 5 years, op. cit.<br />
337<br />
Ibid.<br />
338<br />
“Deta<strong>in</strong>ees <strong>in</strong> Arthur Road Jail <strong>in</strong> Mumbai”, PUCL Bullet<strong>in</strong>, August 2000,<br />
(www.pucl.org/reports/Maharashtra/arthur_road.htm - accessed 12 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).
67<br />
year 2000, this had not ch<strong>an</strong>ged by <strong>the</strong> time Ronen was <strong>the</strong>re. We c<strong>an</strong> see this <strong>from</strong> <strong>an</strong><br />
article written by someone who was <strong>in</strong> this jail <strong>in</strong> July 2006 who wrote “If you<br />
compla<strong>in</strong> you are beaten mercilessly.... The warden c<strong>an</strong> beat you, push you around...<br />
No body is <strong>the</strong>re to question him actually.” 339 Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, towards <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> 2008, a<br />
judicial report strongly condemned <strong>the</strong> brutal beat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> prisoners for two hours by <strong>the</strong><br />
prison authorities us<strong>in</strong>g batons, lathis, belts <strong>an</strong>d stones, <strong>in</strong> June 2008 at Arthur Road<br />
Jail. 340<br />
However, <strong>in</strong> complete contrast, for members <strong>of</strong> crime syndicates who are <strong>in</strong>carcerated<br />
<strong>in</strong> this prison, <strong>the</strong>ir life is one <strong>of</strong> luxury! They generously bribe <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>ficers <strong>an</strong>d guards<br />
<strong>in</strong> this jail <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> return c<strong>an</strong> live <strong>in</strong> style! As a prisoner summed this up, “If you have<br />
money <strong>an</strong>d are highly <strong>in</strong>fluential <strong>the</strong>n you c<strong>an</strong> enjoy jail life.” 341 Ronen was not <strong>in</strong> this<br />
category!<br />
I appreciated <strong>the</strong> f<strong>an</strong> as <strong>the</strong> heat <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi was unbearable. (p.356)<br />
Var<strong>an</strong>asi experiences a humid subtropical climate with large variations between<br />
summer <strong>an</strong>d w<strong>in</strong>ter temperatures. The summers are long <strong>an</strong>d extremely hot, with<br />
temperatures r<strong>an</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g between 32 – 46 degrees Celsius <strong>an</strong>d last <strong>from</strong> April to October.<br />
The summers are also humid, s<strong>in</strong>ce Var<strong>an</strong>asi lies at <strong>the</strong> Tropic <strong>of</strong> C<strong>an</strong>cer. Torrential<br />
ra<strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d high humidity accomp<strong>an</strong>y <strong>the</strong> monsoons which usually come <strong>in</strong> late June or<br />
early July <strong>an</strong>d last for about two months. There are also hot dry w<strong>in</strong>ds. Dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />
w<strong>in</strong>ter <strong>the</strong>re are warm days <strong>an</strong>d cold nights <strong>an</strong>d fog is common. 342 Accord<strong>in</strong>g to<br />
historical wea<strong>the</strong>r records, on 30 September 2005, <strong>the</strong> day Ronen arrived <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi,<br />
<strong>the</strong> temperature <strong>the</strong>re r<strong>an</strong>ged <strong>from</strong> 25 – 35.7 degrees Celsius, which c<strong>an</strong> be classed as<br />
very hot. The me<strong>an</strong> humidity was 71 per cent, which is relatively high <strong>an</strong>d makes<br />
sweat<strong>in</strong>g less effective <strong>an</strong>d makes one feel hotter. The me<strong>an</strong> w<strong>in</strong>d speed just 2.8<br />
kilometres per hour, namely almost no w<strong>in</strong>d. 343<br />
There is a journal written by someone who was <strong>in</strong> Sunauli which is on <strong>the</strong> border with<br />
Nepal <strong>an</strong>d is situated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> north <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Uttar Pradesh. On <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r<br />
conditions <strong>of</strong> 1 October 2005, he writes, “... it is broil<strong>in</strong>g hot <strong>an</strong>d muggy here. There‟s<br />
339<br />
My experience <strong>in</strong> Police custody <strong>an</strong>d Jail, op. cit.<br />
340<br />
Arthur Road jail <strong>in</strong>mates beaten without provocation: judicial report, (reported <strong>in</strong> twocircles.net., 28<br />
November 2008),<br />
(twocircles.net/2008nov27/arthur_road_jail_<strong>in</strong>mates_beaten_without_provocation_judicial_report.ht<br />
ml – accessed 12 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
341<br />
My experience <strong>in</strong> Police custody <strong>an</strong>d Jail, op. cit.<br />
342<br />
Wikipedia: Var<strong>an</strong>asi, op. cit., climate; Climate <strong>of</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi (www.var<strong>an</strong>asicity.com/climatevar<strong>an</strong>asi.html<br />
- accessed 11 July 2011).<br />
343<br />
Historical Wea<strong>the</strong>r: Var<strong>an</strong>asi / Babatpur, September 2005,<br />
(www.tutiempo.net/en/Climate/Var<strong>an</strong>asi_Babatpur/09-2005/424790.htm - accessed 12 July 2011).
68<br />
so much humidity that you c<strong>an</strong>‟t see very far, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> sun is reddish near <strong>the</strong> horizon.<br />
Sitt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> shade, I c<strong>an</strong> feel <strong>the</strong> sweat pour<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>f <strong>of</strong> my body.” 344<br />
The question to be asked is whe<strong>the</strong>r one could make <strong>the</strong> same comments on <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r<br />
that day <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi? Unfortunately, <strong>the</strong>re are no ext<strong>an</strong>t records for 30 September 2005<br />
or <strong>the</strong> days around it, for <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> Sunauli, so that one c<strong>an</strong>not make a direct<br />
comparison with <strong>the</strong> records for Var<strong>an</strong>asi. However, <strong>the</strong>re are ext<strong>an</strong>t records for that<br />
day for Gorakhpur, 345 which is about 70 kilometres south <strong>from</strong> Sunauli, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong>m<br />
one c<strong>an</strong> see that <strong>the</strong> temperatures were similar to those <strong>of</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi. The ext<strong>an</strong>t records<br />
for <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> Sunauli are extremely patchy, but a direct comparison c<strong>an</strong> be made for<br />
<strong>the</strong> temperatures dur<strong>in</strong>g September 1999 between Var<strong>an</strong>asi 346 <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> Sunauli 347<br />
<strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y c<strong>an</strong> be seen to be reasonably similar. One c<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong>refore underst<strong>an</strong>d Ronen‟s<br />
comments that “<strong>the</strong> heat <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi was unbearable.”<br />
After two hours I suddenly awoke. There was no air ... Everyth<strong>in</strong>g around me was dark ...<br />
[Eliezer <strong>the</strong>n <strong>in</strong>formed Ronen] It seems <strong>the</strong>re is a power outage. It happens all <strong>the</strong> time.<br />
(p.356)<br />
In <strong>the</strong>ir review on <strong>the</strong>ir stay at a hotel, which is situated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> same area as <strong>the</strong> G<strong>an</strong>ga<br />
Guest House, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> visitors who had stayed <strong>in</strong> this hotel <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> year 2006,<br />
commented regard<strong>in</strong>g power outages, “<strong>the</strong>re is a large <strong>an</strong>d noisy generator outside that<br />
gets go<strong>in</strong>g whenever <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong>s electricity goes (quite <strong>of</strong>ten)” (brackets <strong>in</strong> orig<strong>in</strong>al). 348<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r reviewer <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> same year on <strong>the</strong> same hotel wrote, “The air condition<strong>in</strong>g<br />
kept go<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> entire 1st night because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water filtration <strong>the</strong> city <strong>in</strong>stalled that<br />
dra<strong>in</strong>s <strong>the</strong> power ... so that wasn't good because it‟s India hot over <strong>the</strong>re ... but <strong>the</strong> f<strong>an</strong><br />
stayed on!” 349<br />
A power outage on Shabbat c<strong>an</strong> cause <strong>an</strong> unpleas<strong>an</strong>t situation, s<strong>in</strong>ce it is not permitted<br />
to turn on <strong>an</strong> electric light or appli<strong>an</strong>ce on Shabbat. For this reason, it is thus extremely<br />
likely that <strong>in</strong> a place like Habayit Hayehudi, some corridor <strong>an</strong>d/or bathroom light<br />
would be left on throughout Shabbat. In addition, by look<strong>in</strong>g out <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dow at <strong>the</strong><br />
surround<strong>in</strong>g area, one would see some lights. However, with a power outage,<br />
344<br />
October Journal, (www.azothdesign.com/ch<strong>in</strong>aoctober.html - accessed 11 July 2011).<br />
345<br />
Historical Wea<strong>the</strong>r: Gorakhpur, September 2005, (www.tutiempo.net/en/Climate/Gorakhpur/09-<br />
2005/423790.htm - accessed 12 July 2011).<br />
346<br />
Historical Wea<strong>the</strong>r: Var<strong>an</strong>asi / Babatpur, September 1999,<br />
(www.tutiempo.net/en/Climate/Var<strong>an</strong>asi_Babatpur/09-1999/424790.htm - accessed 12 July 2011).<br />
347<br />
Historical Wea<strong>the</strong>r: Bhairawa Airport Nepal, September 1999,<br />
(www.tutiempo.net/en/Climate/Bhairawa_Airport/09-1999/444380.htm - accessed 12 July 2011).<br />
348<br />
Reviews <strong>from</strong> our community “Grumpy staff, unpleas<strong>an</strong>t bathroom”<br />
(www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g297685-d307314-r4985425-Hotel_***-<br />
Var<strong>an</strong>asi_Uttar_Pradesh.html - accessed 12 July 2011).<br />
349 Reviews <strong>from</strong> our community “great location <strong>an</strong>d terrace”,<br />
(www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g297685-d307314-r5019091-Hotel_***-<br />
Var<strong>an</strong>asi_Uttar_Pradesh.html - accessed 12 July 2011).
69<br />
everyth<strong>in</strong>g would be <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> dark. Due <strong>the</strong> heat <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> high humidity, without a f<strong>an</strong>, one<br />
would, as Ronen stated, feel a lack <strong>of</strong> air.<br />
[Eliezer <strong>the</strong>n said to Ronen] I w<strong>an</strong>t to ask <strong>the</strong> [non-Jewish] l<strong>an</strong>dlord to turn on <strong>the</strong><br />
generator, because I have a small baby <strong>an</strong>d it‟s d<strong>an</strong>gerous for him to sleep without a f<strong>an</strong><br />
<strong>in</strong> this heat … [but] on Shabbat you c<strong>an</strong>‟t ask him directly, but only with a h<strong>in</strong>t [Follow<strong>in</strong>g<br />
this h<strong>in</strong>t <strong>the</strong> l<strong>an</strong>dlord replied] I am already turn<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong> generator for you. (pp.356-57)<br />
It c<strong>an</strong> be seen <strong>from</strong> this, that just as <strong>the</strong> above hotel (<strong>an</strong>d most likely o<strong>the</strong>r hotels <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
area) had <strong>the</strong>ir own generator, so did <strong>the</strong> G<strong>an</strong>ga Guest House, due to <strong>the</strong> regular power<br />
outages <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> area.<br />
Not only is it forbidden for a Jew himself to switch on <strong>the</strong> generator on Shabbat, it is<br />
also, <strong>in</strong> general, forbidden for a non-Jew to do this (or <strong>in</strong>deed <strong>an</strong>y o<strong>the</strong>r forbidden<br />
labour) on behalf <strong>of</strong> a Jew. There are several reasons for this which <strong>in</strong>clude that by<br />
allow<strong>in</strong>g a non-Jew to work for a Jew on Shabbat, it would cause a laxity <strong>of</strong> attitude<br />
towards <strong>the</strong> s<strong>an</strong>ctity <strong>of</strong> Shabbat. 350 Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, should a non-Jew do such a labour for<br />
a Jew it would be forbidden for <strong>the</strong> Jew to benefit <strong>from</strong> that labour throughout that<br />
Shabbat <strong>an</strong>d even for a certa<strong>in</strong> period after Shabbat. 351<br />
However, it is permitted to h<strong>in</strong>t to a non-Jew <strong>in</strong> a passive m<strong>an</strong>ner to do a forbidden<br />
labour, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> a case where <strong>the</strong> Jew does not get direct benefit <strong>from</strong> this labour, he<br />
could utilise <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>direct benefit. For example, if a Jew would h<strong>in</strong>t to a non-Jew, “<strong>the</strong><br />
light is on <strong>an</strong>d I c<strong>an</strong>not sleep” <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> non-Jew would turn <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> light, <strong>the</strong> Jew could<br />
rema<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> room <strong>an</strong>d go to sleep, s<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong> non-Jew did not <strong>in</strong>troduce a new benefit,<br />
but just elim<strong>in</strong>ated a nuis<strong>an</strong>ce. If however, a Jew would h<strong>in</strong>t to a non-Jew, “it is dark <strong>in</strong><br />
this room <strong>an</strong>d I c<strong>an</strong>not see to read” <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> non-Jew would turn on <strong>the</strong> light, s<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong><br />
Jew would now be gett<strong>in</strong>g direct benefit <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> light, he would be forbidden to utilise<br />
this light to read. 352<br />
However, <strong>the</strong>re are some cases where a Jew c<strong>an</strong> directly <strong>in</strong>struct a non-Jew to do a<br />
labour for him on Shabbat. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m is for a non-life threaten<strong>in</strong>g illness. (For a lifethreaten<strong>in</strong>g<br />
illness, a Jew himself may, or <strong>in</strong> fact must, do <strong>the</strong> labour himself. 353 )<br />
Included <strong>in</strong> this category <strong>of</strong> non-life threaten<strong>in</strong>g illnesses is putt<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong> heat on a<br />
cold day, 354 or dur<strong>in</strong>g a heat wave, putt<strong>in</strong>g on a f<strong>an</strong> or <strong>the</strong> air-condition<strong>in</strong>g, 355 <strong>an</strong>d this is<br />
especially so for a young child. 356 For this reason, Eliezer did not have to h<strong>in</strong>t to <strong>the</strong><br />
350 th<br />
Rabbi Dovid Ribiat, The 39 Melochos, (Feldheim: Jerusalem, 6 ed. 2001), vol.1, p.63.<br />
351<br />
Rambam. Mishnah Torah, Zem<strong>an</strong>im, Hilchot Shabbat, chap.6, halachah 2.<br />
352<br />
Rabbi Ribiat, op. cit., vol.1, pp.70-71.<br />
353<br />
Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 328:12.<br />
354<br />
Rabbi Ribiat, op. cit., p.74; Rabbi Neuwirth, op. cit., vol. 1, chap.30, par.11.<br />
355<br />
Rabbi Yitzchak Weiss, M<strong>in</strong>chat Yitzchak, vol.3, responsum 23; Rabbi Ribiat, op. cit., vol.4, p.1231;<br />
Rabbi Neuwirth, op. cit, vol.1, chap.13, par.34 <strong>an</strong>d chap.30, par.11.<br />
356<br />
Based on Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 276:5, which allows a non-Jew to light a fire on Shabbat for<br />
children when it is cold. (For adults this may be done when it is very cold.)
70<br />
non-Jewish l<strong>an</strong>dlord but could have asked him directly to turn on <strong>the</strong> generator.<br />
However, had <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r been such that putt<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>an</strong> air conditioner would have<br />
given no benefit even for a small baby, <strong>the</strong>n h<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g to a non-Jew regard<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong> outage<br />
<strong>of</strong> electricity would not be permitted.<br />
Around twenty Israelis came for <strong>the</strong> afternoon meal. We all enjoyed <strong>the</strong> delicious cholent<br />
<strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> meal lasted until havdala. (p.357)<br />
On Shabbat morn<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>re is a longish service 357 which <strong>in</strong>cludes Read<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Torah. 358 This is followed by <strong>the</strong> Shabbat morn<strong>in</strong>g meal. 359<br />
The book does not refer to a morn<strong>in</strong>g service held <strong>the</strong>re or to <strong>the</strong> meal eaten afterwards.<br />
It would thus seem that Eliezer <strong>an</strong>d Ronen prayed <strong>in</strong>dividually <strong>an</strong>d ate <strong>the</strong>ir morn<strong>in</strong>g<br />
meal without outside comp<strong>an</strong>y.<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> import<strong>an</strong>t requirements <strong>of</strong> Shabbat is hot food <strong>an</strong>d s<strong>in</strong>ce one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 39<br />
forbidden labours on Shabbat is cook<strong>in</strong>g, m<strong>an</strong>y communities make a cholent before<br />
Shabbat. The basic <strong>in</strong>gredients <strong>of</strong> cholent amongst Ashkenazi (Europe<strong>an</strong>) Jews are<br />
meat, potatoes, be<strong>an</strong>s <strong>an</strong>d barley <strong>an</strong>d some add a kishke (a chicken neck sk<strong>in</strong> stuffed<br />
with a flour based mixture). Sefaradi (Oriental) Jews <strong>of</strong>ten use rice <strong>in</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> be<strong>an</strong>s <strong>an</strong>d<br />
barley, <strong>an</strong>d chicken <strong>in</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> meat <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y also <strong>in</strong>clude eggs <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir shell. These<br />
<strong>in</strong>gredients are cooked before Shabbat <strong>in</strong> a pot which is kept on <strong>the</strong> boil on a permitted<br />
type <strong>of</strong> covered gas or hotplate until required dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> daytime <strong>of</strong> Shabbat. 360<br />
This meal with <strong>the</strong> twenty particip<strong>an</strong>ts eat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> cholent, obviously was accomp<strong>an</strong>ied<br />
by zemirot <strong>an</strong>d fur<strong>the</strong>r Torah <strong>in</strong>sights<br />
It was once <strong>the</strong> custom for people to eat just two meals each day, one at <strong>the</strong> beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> night <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r about midday. S<strong>in</strong>ce one is comm<strong>an</strong>ded to make Shabbat <strong>in</strong>to<br />
<strong>an</strong> enjoyable day, one adds a third meal which is consumed usually dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> latter<br />
part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> afternoon <strong>of</strong> Shabbat, 361 <strong>an</strong>d it <strong>of</strong>ten cont<strong>in</strong>ues until after <strong>the</strong> term<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>of</strong><br />
Shabbat. 362<br />
At <strong>the</strong> term<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>of</strong> Shabbat, one makes <strong>the</strong> havdalah ceremony. This ceremony<br />
makes <strong>the</strong> formal separation between Shabbat <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> weekday. This ceremony is made<br />
us<strong>in</strong>g w<strong>in</strong>e, <strong>an</strong>d also <strong>in</strong>cludes <strong>the</strong> smell<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> spices, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> bless<strong>in</strong>g over a flame 363<br />
357<br />
Siddur – Shabbat services.<br />
358<br />
Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 282.<br />
359<br />
Ibid., 289.<br />
360<br />
Wikipedia: Cholent – accessed 18 July 2011.<br />
361<br />
Ibid., 291.<br />
362<br />
Piskei Teshuvot, op. cit. Vol.3. 291:1 <strong>an</strong>d fn,11.<br />
363 Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 296:1.
71<br />
which by tradition was first made by <strong>the</strong> first m<strong>an</strong>, Adam, follow<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> first Shabbat<br />
after <strong>the</strong> Creation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> World. 364<br />
After havdalah, Avraham took out drums <strong>an</strong>d guitars <strong>an</strong>d everyone played <strong>an</strong>d s<strong>an</strong>g on <strong>the</strong><br />
porch. (p.357)<br />
Ronen was <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi for Shabbat 1 October 2005. The term<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>of</strong> Shabbat is<br />
determ<strong>in</strong>ed by <strong>the</strong> time one c<strong>an</strong> see three medium stars which are <strong>in</strong> close proximity.<br />
M<strong>an</strong>y communities calculate this as <strong>the</strong> time when <strong>the</strong> solar depression is eight <strong>an</strong>d a<br />
half degrees below <strong>the</strong> horizon. For that Shabbat <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi it was at 6.19 p.m. India<br />
St<strong>an</strong>dard Time, which is Greenwich Me<strong>an</strong> Time plus five <strong>an</strong>d a half hours. 365<br />
After <strong>the</strong> term<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>of</strong> Shabbat, a fourth meal called a melave malka is eaten 366 <strong>an</strong>d<br />
like <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r meals on Shabbat, it is accomp<strong>an</strong>ied by zemirot. 367 M<strong>an</strong>y <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />
zemirot are built around Eliyahu H<strong>an</strong>avi (Elijah <strong>the</strong> Prophet) who by tradition will <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> future arrive at <strong>the</strong> term<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>of</strong> Shabbat. 368 Although play<strong>in</strong>g a musical<br />
<strong>in</strong>strument is not directly one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> forbidden labours <strong>of</strong> Shabbat, <strong>the</strong>re is a Rabb<strong>in</strong>ical<br />
enactment not to play such <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>strument, s<strong>in</strong>ce one might come to repair it should it go<br />
wrong. 369 Thus on Shabbat, one c<strong>an</strong>not have a musical accomp<strong>an</strong>iment to <strong>the</strong> zemirot.<br />
Naturally, this is not <strong>the</strong> case with <strong>the</strong> zemirot at <strong>the</strong> melave malka.<br />
As stated above, music plays <strong>an</strong> import<strong>an</strong>t part <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> life <strong>of</strong> Breslov <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>re are songs<br />
for all occasions, some dat<strong>in</strong>g back two centuries. These <strong>in</strong>clude a number <strong>of</strong> songs<br />
which are sung at a melave malka, with a number <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m about Eliyahu H<strong>an</strong>avi. One<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Breslov‟s m<strong>an</strong>y record<strong>in</strong>gs is a DVD entitled “Breslov Melave Malka”. 370<br />
It is very likely that <strong>the</strong> songs sung that even<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi were <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong>se songs.<br />
The porch referred to was probably <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> G<strong>an</strong>ga Guest House.<br />
I sent Avraham‟s worker to <strong>the</strong> taxi station to f<strong>in</strong>d out <strong>the</strong> dist<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>from</strong> here [Var<strong>an</strong>asi] to<br />
Sunami [Sunauli], <strong>an</strong>d to f<strong>in</strong>d a driver who would take me. He returned <strong>an</strong>d told me <strong>the</strong><br />
trip would take eight hours, <strong>an</strong>d that <strong>the</strong>re was a driver who could take me at midnight.<br />
(p.357)<br />
The dist<strong>an</strong>ce between Var<strong>an</strong>asi <strong>an</strong>d Sunauli is just over 300 kilometres <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> journey<br />
between <strong>the</strong>m takes between four <strong>an</strong>d a half <strong>an</strong>d five hours. 371 One c<strong>an</strong> go almost all<br />
<strong>the</strong> way on National Highway 29 by tak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> route Var<strong>an</strong>asi, Saidpur, Ghazipur,<br />
Ghosi, Chillipur, Kauriram, Gorakhpur, Pharenda <strong>an</strong>d f<strong>in</strong>ally Sunauli. There is also a<br />
364 Babyloni<strong>an</strong> Talmud, Pesachim 54a.<br />
365 Acknowledgements to Rabbi Dr. E.liyahu Simons <strong>of</strong> Haifa for <strong>in</strong>formation.<br />
366<br />
Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 300:1.<br />
367<br />
Mishnah Berurah 300:3.<br />
368<br />
Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 295:1 gloss <strong>of</strong> Rema.<br />
369<br />
Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 338:1; Mishnah Berurah 338:1<br />
370 Breslov Melave Malka (www.breslov.com/music/).<br />
371 Google Maps – get directions.
72<br />
slightly shorter route, which for much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> way utilizes several State Highways <strong>in</strong><br />
Uttar Pradesh. This route goes via Lalg<strong>an</strong>j, Azamgarh <strong>an</strong>d Jiy<strong>an</strong>pur <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>n jo<strong>in</strong>s up<br />
with National Highway 29 just before Chillipur. 372<br />
We do not know which route Ronen took. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> above routes, 8 hours is<br />
plausible because one c<strong>an</strong>not discount that s<strong>in</strong>ce it was <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> night, <strong>the</strong> taxi<br />
stopped on route so that <strong>the</strong>y could take a rest.<br />
Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, <strong>in</strong> contrast to <strong>the</strong> four <strong>an</strong>d a half to five hours suggested by “Google<br />
Maps” for this journey, a traveler <strong>in</strong> November 2005 reported on a 10 hour bus ride<br />
<strong>from</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi to Sunauli, also comment<strong>in</strong>g that it was “very uncomfortable”. 373<br />
Similarly, <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r traveler <strong>in</strong> March 2009, reported that a direct bus <strong>from</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi to<br />
Sunauli took 9 hours, but did not add <strong>an</strong>y comment regard<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> comfort! 374<br />
Sunauli is a very small town <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> district <strong>of</strong> Maharajg<strong>an</strong>j <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> north-eastern area <strong>of</strong><br />
Uttar Pradesh, a district which came <strong>in</strong>to existence <strong>in</strong> October 1989. 375 The<br />
<strong>in</strong>ternational border between India <strong>an</strong>d Nepal passes through Sunauli.<br />
[After Ronen expla<strong>in</strong>ed to Eliezer his pl<strong>an</strong> to cross <strong>the</strong> border at Sunauli, Eliezer replied]<br />
„You c<strong>an</strong>‟t even try to cross a border without a good passport <strong>an</strong>d without a serious pl<strong>an</strong>.<br />
… <strong>the</strong> only th<strong>in</strong>g I could th<strong>in</strong>k <strong>of</strong> is giv<strong>in</strong>g you my passport … <strong>an</strong>d five hundred dollars <strong>in</strong><br />
case you need to bribe <strong>the</strong> guards.‟ … [Ronen] looked at <strong>the</strong> picture on Avraham‟s<br />
[Eliezer‟s] passport.[<strong>an</strong>d saw that] he has red hair <strong>an</strong>d red beard <strong>an</strong>d blue eyes. I didn‟t<br />
underst<strong>an</strong>d how <strong>an</strong>yone <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world could th<strong>in</strong>k that this passport belonged to me.<br />
(pp.358-60)<br />
A passport is a document, issued by a country which certifies, for <strong>the</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>in</strong>ternational travel, <strong>the</strong> identity <strong>an</strong>d nationality <strong>of</strong> its holder. Amongst <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>formation<br />
conta<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> passport is <strong>the</strong> name, date <strong>of</strong> birth, sex, <strong>an</strong>d place <strong>of</strong> birth. A passport<br />
does not itself entitle <strong>the</strong> holder to enter <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r country. 376<br />
All passports have a formal request pr<strong>in</strong>ted at <strong>the</strong> beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g which takes <strong>the</strong> format:<br />
The Foreign Secretary requests <strong>an</strong>d requires all those whom it may concern to allow <strong>the</strong><br />
bearer to pass freely without let or h<strong>in</strong>dr<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>an</strong>d to afford <strong>the</strong> bearer such assist<strong>an</strong>ce<br />
<strong>an</strong>d protection as may be necessary. 377 A similar request c<strong>an</strong> even be found <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Bible, “Moreover I said unto <strong>the</strong> k<strong>in</strong>g, „If it please <strong>the</strong> k<strong>in</strong>g, let letters be given to me<br />
372 Ibid.; TTK map Utter Pradesh, op. cit.<br />
373 Short <strong>an</strong>d Sweet-WOW, I’m <strong>in</strong> Nepal, (blog.travelpod.com/travel-blogentries/luc<strong>in</strong>ate/whatwedid/1132357500/tpod.html<br />
– accessed 18 July 2011).<br />
374 IndiaMike - India to Nepal simple best route.<br />
375 Welcome to <strong>the</strong> district Mahrajg<strong>an</strong>j, (maharajg<strong>an</strong>j.nic.<strong>in</strong>/ - accessed 22 July 2011).<br />
376 Wikipedia: Passport – accessed 20 July 2011.<br />
377 Ibid., Passport message.
73<br />
to <strong>the</strong> governors beyond <strong>the</strong> River, that <strong>the</strong>y may let me pass through till I come to<br />
Judah‟.” 378<br />
A passport also has a photograph <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bearer <strong>an</strong>d such a photograph has to be made to<br />
a number <strong>of</strong> rigid specifications. These generally <strong>in</strong>clude that <strong>the</strong> photograph must be<br />
<strong>in</strong> colour <strong>an</strong>d not black <strong>an</strong>d white, a light grey or cream background, free <strong>from</strong><br />
shadows, eyes open <strong>an</strong>d clearly visible, no hair across eyes, <strong>the</strong> subject look<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> a<br />
forward direction, a neutral expression, mouth closed <strong>an</strong>d a sharp focus. 379<br />
As c<strong>an</strong> be seen, although <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> past, black <strong>an</strong>d white photographs were used <strong>in</strong><br />
passports, this is no longer <strong>the</strong> case <strong>in</strong> almost all countries <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> photographs must be<br />
<strong>in</strong> colour. It would thus seem that <strong>the</strong> photograph <strong>in</strong> Eliezer‟s passport was <strong>in</strong> colour<br />
<strong>an</strong>d thus <strong>an</strong>y border <strong>of</strong>ficial would immediately see that <strong>the</strong> colour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hair, beard<br />
<strong>an</strong>d eyes <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> passport photograph did not match that <strong>of</strong> Ronen‟s!<br />
In addition to Eliezer giv<strong>in</strong>g Ronen his passport, he also gave him money, <strong>in</strong> case he<br />
would have to bribe a guard. From a report issued precisely at <strong>the</strong> period <strong>of</strong> Ronen‟s<br />
<strong>escape</strong> (September 2005) by <strong>the</strong> “Indi<strong>an</strong> Institute <strong>of</strong> Pl<strong>an</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d M<strong>an</strong>agement” it c<strong>an</strong><br />
be seen that bribery was <strong>the</strong> norm <strong>in</strong> India. On this it states, “Our bureaucracy is<br />
equally corrupt to <strong>the</strong> core <strong>an</strong>d thrives on bribery. 23% <strong>of</strong> city dwellers <strong>in</strong> India<br />
(assum<strong>in</strong>g Mumbai is typical) [bracketed words <strong>in</strong> orig<strong>in</strong>al] are victims <strong>of</strong> bribery,<br />
whereas only 0.2% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> citizens <strong>in</strong> USA have <strong>the</strong> same experience. Thus <strong>in</strong>cidence <strong>of</strong><br />
bribery <strong>in</strong> India is more th<strong>an</strong> 100 times that <strong>in</strong> a country like USA.” 380<br />
A statistical survey <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bribery <strong>in</strong> India came out <strong>in</strong> a report entitled “India Report<br />
2009”, which was brought out by “Bus<strong>in</strong>ess Registry for International Bribery <strong>an</strong>d<br />
Extortion (BRIBEl<strong>in</strong>e)”. This is a project which collects data about “bribe solicitations<br />
made by <strong>of</strong>ficial, quasi-<strong>of</strong>ficial <strong>an</strong>d private sector <strong>in</strong>dividuals <strong>an</strong>d entities.” Of <strong>the</strong> bribe<br />
dem<strong>an</strong>ds, 91% orig<strong>in</strong>ated <strong>from</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> government <strong>of</strong>ficials. In order <strong>of</strong> decreas<strong>in</strong>g<br />
frequency, <strong>the</strong>y were <strong>from</strong> national level government <strong>of</strong>ficials, <strong>the</strong> police,<br />
state/prov<strong>in</strong>cial <strong>of</strong>ficials <strong>an</strong>d employees, <strong>an</strong>d city <strong>of</strong>ficials. Bribe dem<strong>an</strong>ds were also<br />
reported be<strong>in</strong>g made <strong>from</strong> <strong>in</strong>dividuals affiliated with <strong>the</strong> Justice System, Visas <strong>an</strong>d<br />
Immigration, M<strong>in</strong>es <strong>an</strong>d M<strong>in</strong>erals, Construction, Defense, Energy, Foreign Affairs,<br />
Forestry, Health Service, Information/Communication <strong>an</strong>d L<strong>an</strong>d. Almost everyone who<br />
had been solicited once had been solicited on fur<strong>the</strong>r occasions, even as m<strong>an</strong>y as twenty<br />
378 Nehemiah 2:7<br />
379 UKBA Photograph Guid<strong>an</strong>ce;<br />
(www.ukba.home<strong>of</strong>fice.gov.uk/sitecontent/applicationforms/ecaa/photo-guid<strong>an</strong>ce.pdf - 20 July 2011);<br />
smarttraveller, General photograph guidel<strong>in</strong>es (www.passports.gov.au/web/requirements/photos.aspx<br />
- accessed 20 July 2011).<br />
380 Systemic Failure: Nexus between Netas <strong>an</strong>d Naukars (www.iipm.edu/iipm-old/systemic-failure.html<br />
- accessed 20 July 2011).
74<br />
times! The forms <strong>of</strong> bribes <strong>in</strong>variably requested were cash. Just over three quarters <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> bribes were related to <strong>the</strong> avoid<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>of</strong> harm. 381<br />
I ... got <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> wait<strong>in</strong>g taxi <strong>an</strong>d was on <strong>the</strong> way to Sunami [Sunauli]. ... We arrived at ...<br />
eight o‟clock <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g ... at <strong>the</strong> entr<strong>an</strong>ce to <strong>the</strong> village [<strong>of</strong> Sunauli]. (p.362)<br />
Sunauli is situated about 70 kilometres north <strong>of</strong> Gorakhpur <strong>an</strong>d 3 kilometres south <strong>of</strong><br />
Bhairawa (which is <strong>in</strong> Nepal), <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>re is only one ma<strong>in</strong> road to it. The nearest railway<br />
station is Naut<strong>an</strong>wa which is about 7 kilometres away. 382 Sunauli‟s does not appear on<br />
“Google Maps” even with maximum magnification – namely 2.8 cms for 20 metres,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d “Google Maps” c<strong>an</strong>not even identify <strong>the</strong> name. Its claim to “fame” is that it<br />
straddles <strong>the</strong> border between India <strong>an</strong>d Nepal. The Nepal side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> village is <strong>of</strong>ficially<br />
called Belahiya <strong>an</strong>d this does appear on <strong>the</strong> “Google Maps”. Sunauli‟s total population<br />
(on both sides <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> border) is about 70,000. 383<br />
It is not easy to f<strong>in</strong>d accommodation <strong>in</strong> Sunauli <strong>an</strong>d most <strong>of</strong> what <strong>the</strong>re is, is geared<br />
towards cater<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> truck drives. These accommodations have been described as not<br />
<strong>the</strong> nicest <strong>of</strong> places to stay <strong>an</strong>d are not recommended to women travell<strong>in</strong>g alone,<br />
Sunauli also has a government hotel for pilgrims. 384 Needless to say, Sunauli is not a<br />
popular place for tourists <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>re is no shortage <strong>of</strong> non-complimentary comments<br />
about it. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m says, “Most people will w<strong>an</strong>t to stay here for <strong>the</strong> least amount <strong>of</strong><br />
time possible. In fact, most people would wish <strong>the</strong>y never came here.” 385 A tourist<br />
writes, “The border town [Sunauli] looks like a wild west m<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g settlement, noisy<br />
dirty, confus<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>in</strong>timidat<strong>in</strong>g. You‟ll be assailed by rickshaw wallahs as soon as you<br />
get <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> bus ...” 386 “Wikitravel” describes this place as “small, congested, dusty <strong>an</strong>d<br />
dirty ... <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> quicker” one c<strong>an</strong> get out <strong>of</strong> it “<strong>the</strong> better”. 387 A tour operator writes on<br />
tours to Sunauli, “Sunauli tours are not about a pleasurable <strong>an</strong>d l<strong>in</strong>ger<strong>in</strong>g tour. It is a<br />
signific<strong>an</strong>t border cross<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t where one c<strong>an</strong> avail few services <strong>an</strong>d which features<br />
negligible Sunauli attractions.” 388<br />
381 India Report 2009<br />
(secure.trace<strong>in</strong>ternational.org/data/public/documents/IndiaReportPressKit011009-64642-1.pdf –<br />
accessed 20 July 2011).<br />
382 Wikipedia: Sonauli – accessed 20 July 2011; Wikitravel: Sunauli – 20 July 2011; Tours to Sunauli<br />
(www.<strong>in</strong>di<strong>an</strong>holiday.com/uttar-pradesh/cities-<strong>in</strong>-uttar-pradesh/tours-to-sunauli.html - accessed 20 July<br />
2011).<br />
383 Tours to Sunauli, op. cit.<br />
384 Ibid.<br />
385 Spiritual Guides : Natural Nirv<strong>an</strong>a Vegetari<strong>an</strong> & Spiritual Shopp<strong>in</strong>g<br />
(www.naturalnirv<strong>an</strong>a.com/Nepal/Nepal-O<strong>the</strong>rs/Sunauli-Bhairawa.htm - 21 December 2009).<br />
386 IndiaMike : Cross<strong>in</strong>g overl<strong>an</strong>d at Sonauli <strong>in</strong>to Nepal - accessed 20 July 2011.<br />
387 Wikitravel: Sunauli, op. cit.<br />
388 Tours to Sunauli, op.cit.
75<br />
There were three stone gates on <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> road [mark<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> border cross<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to Nepal] ...<br />
The ma<strong>in</strong> road was crammed with stores ... The merch<strong>an</strong>dise partially spilled onto <strong>the</strong><br />
road. The road was already filled with locals with colourful shopp<strong>in</strong>g baskets. (p.363)<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major cross<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>ts, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>deed <strong>the</strong> most popular 389 between India <strong>an</strong>d<br />
Nepal runs through <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> Sunauli. This cross<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t has been described as<br />
“one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> liveliest <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world”. 390 One c<strong>an</strong> also clearly see this <strong>from</strong> photographs<br />
taken at this cross<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t. There, <strong>the</strong>re are numerous pedestri<strong>an</strong>s, bicycle riders <strong>an</strong>d<br />
rickshaws <strong>an</strong>d large lorries cross<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> border. One c<strong>an</strong> also see <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se photographs<br />
how <strong>the</strong> streets <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> immediate area <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> border cross<strong>in</strong>g is cluttered up with<br />
merch<strong>an</strong>dise <strong>an</strong>d unattended bicycles. In addition, <strong>the</strong>re are numerous pedestri<strong>an</strong>s,<br />
some <strong>of</strong> whom are carry<strong>in</strong>g shopp<strong>in</strong>g baskets <strong>an</strong>d have obviously come to do <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
shopp<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d carry it across <strong>the</strong> border. 391 Ronen‟s description <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> scene at Sunauli<br />
almost exactly corresponds with what c<strong>an</strong> be seen <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se photographs.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> border, on both sides, <strong>the</strong>re are numerous signposts <strong>in</strong> English with<br />
<strong>in</strong>structions. An example is “Stop. India Immigration. Check post Sonauli. Maharajgadj<br />
U.P.” <strong>an</strong>d directly underneath this board, <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r board read<strong>in</strong>g, “Foreigners are<br />
requested to stop <strong>an</strong>d get <strong>the</strong>ir passports stamp on arrival/departure <strong>in</strong> India. Check post<br />
<strong>of</strong>ficer. Sonauli. Maharajg<strong>an</strong>j U.P.” The upper board has a l<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong> written <strong>in</strong> H<strong>in</strong>di after<br />
<strong>the</strong> English <strong>in</strong>struction. 392 U.P. st<strong>an</strong>ds for Uttar Pradesh, <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> State.<br />
Maharajg<strong>an</strong>j is a District <strong>in</strong> Uttar Pradesh <strong>in</strong> which Sunauli is situated. Sunauli is<br />
spelled Sonauli on <strong>the</strong>se boards. There is also a rect<strong>an</strong>gular archway on which is<br />
written <strong>in</strong> English “India Border Ends”, but this time <strong>the</strong> H<strong>in</strong>di written on this board<br />
precedes <strong>the</strong> English. Although <strong>the</strong> me<strong>an</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> words <strong>in</strong> English is not that clear, it<br />
me<strong>an</strong>s that at that po<strong>in</strong>t one is leav<strong>in</strong>g India. Some metres fur<strong>the</strong>r away, <strong>the</strong>re is a board<br />
say<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> English “Welcome to Nepal”. A few metres fur<strong>the</strong>r on is a V shaped archway<br />
which also has on it <strong>in</strong> English, <strong>the</strong> words “Welcome to Nepal”. 393<br />
These are not <strong>the</strong> only boards welcom<strong>in</strong>g arrivals to <strong>the</strong>se countries. Examples <strong>of</strong><br />
additional boards state “Wel come (sic) to Nepal. Nepal Police” <strong>an</strong>d “Welcome to<br />
Nepal. Nepal Indo Friendship Association” <strong>an</strong>d beside <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong>re is also a small board<br />
on which is written “Belhiya” which is <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>ficial name <strong>of</strong> Sunauli on <strong>the</strong> Nepal side<br />
389<br />
Bradley Mayhew, Joe B<strong>in</strong>dloss <strong>an</strong>d St<strong>an</strong> Arm<strong>in</strong>gton, Nepal Lonely Pl<strong>an</strong>et, (Lonely Pl<strong>an</strong>et Publications,<br />
7 th edition 2006), p.289.<br />
390<br />
itravelabout: Sunauli, <strong>the</strong> border cross<strong>in</strong>g between India <strong>an</strong>d Nepal (www.itravelabout.com/sunauli<strong>the</strong>-border-cross<strong>in</strong>g-between-<strong>in</strong>dia-<strong>an</strong>d-nepal<br />
- accessed 22 July 2011)..<br />
391<br />
numerous photographs via Google e.g. Sonauli - India-Nepal border<br />
392<br />
Border signpost, (www.matt<strong>an</strong>dbeckysm<strong>in</strong>iadventure.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/bordercoss<strong>in</strong>g-011208.jpg<br />
- 20 July 2011).<br />
393<br />
Border signpost (farm4.static.flickr.com/3577/3657312917_b9f3c5cd38.jpg?v=0 – 20 July 2011).
76<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> border. 394 Likewise, on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> border on <strong>the</strong> rect<strong>an</strong>gular arch is<br />
written “Welcome to India”. 395<br />
I headed towards <strong>the</strong> [border with Nepal] ... when suddenly a police <strong>of</strong>ficer stood <strong>in</strong> front<br />
<strong>of</strong> me <strong>an</strong>d motioned for me to come forward. ... [The policem<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong>n said] “passport<br />
please‟... [Follow<strong>in</strong>g a short conversation with <strong>the</strong> policem<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d his superior <strong>of</strong>ficer who<br />
had <strong>the</strong>n showed up, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>ficer] gl<strong>an</strong>ced at ... [<strong>the</strong> passport <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Eliezer‟s photograph<br />
<strong>in</strong> it] for a m<strong>in</strong>ute <strong>an</strong>d flipped <strong>the</strong> pages to f<strong>in</strong>d <strong>the</strong> visa [for Nepal, which was not <strong>in</strong> this<br />
passport. Ronen <strong>the</strong>n made a joke <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>] <strong>of</strong>ficer started laugh<strong>in</strong>g ... [Whilst shar<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />
joke with <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r police <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> area Ronen] gently took <strong>the</strong> passport <strong>from</strong> his h<strong>an</strong>d<br />
[crossed through <strong>the</strong> first gate] <strong>an</strong>d walked slowly towards <strong>the</strong> Nepal side [<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> border] ...<br />
I walked forward. ... The Nepali guards looked straight ahead <strong>an</strong>d didn‟t notice me. ...<br />
After a few m<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>of</strong> walk<strong>in</strong>g I realized I was <strong>in</strong> Nepal! Nobody stopped me! (pp.363-65)<br />
To go <strong>from</strong> India to Nepal (<strong>an</strong>d vice versa) <strong>the</strong>re are two border posts each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m<br />
supported by two side pillars. On <strong>the</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> side <strong>the</strong>re is a horizontally placed l<strong>in</strong>tel<br />
<strong>an</strong>d on <strong>the</strong> Nepal side it is V shaped. 396 It is <strong>the</strong>refore not clear why <strong>the</strong> book writes<br />
“three stone gates”. Before <strong>the</strong> border post is a barrier which c<strong>an</strong> be lifted. In all <strong>the</strong><br />
m<strong>an</strong>y photographs where one c<strong>an</strong> see this barrier, it is <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> open position. 397<br />
Needless to say, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>ficial way to cross this border is by present<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> necessary<br />
documents to both <strong>the</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d Nepalese <strong>of</strong>ficials. However, <strong>in</strong> a guide published <strong>in</strong><br />
2001 on travel <strong>in</strong> India <strong>an</strong>d Nepal, it states, “It is possible to walk across <strong>the</strong> border [at<br />
Sunauli] without be<strong>in</strong>g questioned.” 398 A traveller, under <strong>the</strong> nickname <strong>of</strong> “neilpollick”,<br />
relat<strong>in</strong>g his experiences <strong>in</strong> cross<strong>in</strong>g this border <strong>in</strong> November 2008, writes “There‟s <strong>an</strong><br />
archway at <strong>the</strong> border l<strong>in</strong>e that says you are leav<strong>in</strong>g India. But before you get that far<br />
make sure you check <strong>in</strong> with Indi<strong>an</strong> emigration, a small em<strong>in</strong>enetly (sic) overlookable<br />
open fronted <strong>of</strong>fice on <strong>the</strong> right about 100 metres before <strong>the</strong> border itself. Walk under<br />
<strong>the</strong> arch <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>n you‟ll be <strong>in</strong> Nepal, unchallenged. You‟ll need a visa to be <strong>in</strong> Nepal,<br />
one you get at <strong>the</strong> border itself but don‟t expect <strong>an</strong>ybody to stop you, nobody will <strong>in</strong>sist<br />
<strong>the</strong>y stamp your passport or take your money. It‟s actually possible to walk right across<br />
<strong>the</strong> border, right past <strong>the</strong> Neplai (sic) visa <strong>of</strong>fice <strong>an</strong>d disappear <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> dark <strong>in</strong>terior <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> country without ever stopp<strong>in</strong>g to collect your Nepali visa but be warned, if you do<br />
that <strong>an</strong>d you get <strong>in</strong>to trouble with <strong>the</strong> authorities later on you will face a f<strong>in</strong>e big<br />
enough to embarass (sic) even a wealthy westerner.” 399 When summaris<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong><br />
po<strong>in</strong>ts <strong>of</strong> his travelogue, “neilpollick” writes, “you will not be stopped as you cross <strong>the</strong><br />
border, unless your Kalashnikov is show<strong>in</strong>g.” 400 In <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r travelogue <strong>from</strong> November<br />
394<br />
Border signpost (www.myphotographs.net/nepal/picture1.html -accessed 20 July 2011).<br />
395<br />
Border signpost (www.pbase.com/image/37166883 - accessed 20 July 2011).<br />
396<br />
Ibid.<br />
397<br />
Border barrier e.g. Ibid. ; static.p<strong>an</strong>oramio.com/photos/orig<strong>in</strong>al/19918323.jpg – accessed 20 July<br />
2011.<br />
398 Spiritual Guides, op. cit.<br />
399 IndiaMike : Cross<strong>in</strong>g overl<strong>an</strong>d at Sonauli <strong>in</strong>to Nepal, op. cit.<br />
400 Ibid.
77<br />
2003, <strong>the</strong> writer states, “The border cross<strong>in</strong>g [<strong>from</strong> India to Nepal] was a very lax<br />
affair. We knew we needed to get our exit stamp on <strong>the</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> side. There appeared to<br />
be a large archway divid<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational boundary, <strong>an</strong>d most people just walked or<br />
drove through. If <strong>the</strong>re were <strong>an</strong>y guards, <strong>the</strong>y must have gone home.” 401 In a report<br />
brought out <strong>in</strong> 2010 by a body concerned with <strong>the</strong> illicit trade <strong>in</strong> tobacco products, <strong>the</strong>y<br />
state, “International borders between India <strong>an</strong>d Nepal are non-existent; it is no-m<strong>an</strong>‟s<br />
l<strong>an</strong>d. India <strong>an</strong>d Nepal share <strong>an</strong> open border policy.” 402<br />
From all this it c<strong>an</strong> thus be seen how Ronen m<strong>an</strong>aged to cross this border unchallenged.<br />
However, <strong>the</strong> legal way to enter a country is, <strong>in</strong> general, with a visa. A visa is a<br />
document show<strong>in</strong>g that a person is authorised to enter <strong>the</strong> country which issued such a<br />
visa. Sometimes, a visa takes <strong>the</strong> form <strong>of</strong> a document, but more <strong>of</strong>ten it is a stamp<br />
endorsed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> applic<strong>an</strong>t‟s passport. In some cases, <strong>the</strong> visa c<strong>an</strong> be obta<strong>in</strong>ed at <strong>the</strong><br />
border, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs, prior application is required. The country which issues <strong>the</strong> visa<br />
usually attaches various conditions <strong>of</strong> stay such as for which period <strong>the</strong> visa is valid,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> dates <strong>of</strong> validity. Sometimes two countries will have a reciprocal arr<strong>an</strong>gement<br />
which waives <strong>the</strong> visa requirement. In some cases, a visitor to a country has to pass a<br />
security <strong>an</strong>d/or health check on arrival at <strong>the</strong> border. 403<br />
All non Indi<strong>an</strong> citizens (except those <strong>from</strong> Nepal <strong>an</strong>d Bhut<strong>an</strong>) require a visa to enter<br />
India <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y c<strong>an</strong> obta<strong>in</strong> a tourist visa, which <strong>in</strong> general has to be obta<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>in</strong> adv<strong>an</strong>ce,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d it is valid for a period <strong>of</strong> six months <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> date <strong>of</strong> issue. 404 Visas are also<br />
required to travel to Nepal <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>se c<strong>an</strong> be obta<strong>in</strong>ed at <strong>an</strong>y Nepal embassy or consulate<br />
<strong>an</strong>d at <strong>an</strong>y border cross<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t. 405 This <strong>of</strong> course <strong>in</strong>cludes Sunauli. 406 Such tourist<br />
visas are valid for 60 days. 407 It is reported that “cross<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> border [<strong>from</strong> India to<br />
Nepal] c<strong>an</strong> be a slow tedious bus<strong>in</strong>ess unless „baksheesh‟ is <strong>of</strong>fered to <strong>of</strong>ficials.” 408<br />
401<br />
Nepalese Confusion (www.ball<strong>of</strong>dirt.com/entries/846/5396.html - accessed 20 July 2011).<br />
402<br />
Trac<strong>in</strong>g Illicit Tobacco Trade <strong>in</strong> South Asia, section 2: Smoke alarm: Illicit Tobacco <strong>an</strong>d Allied Trade<br />
across Indi<strong>an</strong> Borders (Framework Convention Alli<strong>an</strong>ce, 2010) p.41.<br />
(www.healthbridge.ca/Illicit%20Tobacco%20Trade%20<strong>in</strong>%20South%20Asia.pdf – accessed 15 J<strong>an</strong>uary<br />
2012).<br />
403<br />
Wikipedia: Visa (document) – accessed 24 July 2011.<br />
404<br />
India Mike: Visa Roundup: Tourist visa FAQs – accessed 24 July 2011.<br />
405<br />
Gett<strong>in</strong>g Nepal Visas (Legal Issues <strong>an</strong>d Red Tape)<br />
(www.moonsuntravel.com/nepal/nepal_visaprocedure.php - accessed 24 July 2011).<br />
406<br />
Travel.state.gov: A service <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bureau <strong>of</strong> Consular Affairs – U.S. Department <strong>of</strong> State – Nepal:<br />
Country Specific Information (travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_980.htm - accessed 25 July<br />
2011).<br />
407<br />
Gett<strong>in</strong>g Nepal Visas, op. cit.<br />
408<br />
Buddhist Studies: Lumb<strong>in</strong>i (www.buddh<strong>an</strong>et.net/e-learn<strong>in</strong>g/pilgrim/pg_17.htm - accessed 24 July<br />
2011).
78<br />
At <strong>the</strong> border <strong>the</strong>re are Nepal immigration <strong>an</strong>d customs <strong>of</strong>fices, which are <strong>of</strong>ficially<br />
open for 24 hours a day, although dur<strong>in</strong>g most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> night, one has to wake up <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>of</strong>ficers. There is also a Nepal Tourist Office at this border who will give <strong>in</strong>formation<br />
on <strong>the</strong> best <strong>an</strong>d cheapest ways to where one w<strong>an</strong>ts to go. At this border, one c<strong>an</strong>, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong><br />
fact needs to, ch<strong>an</strong>ge ones money <strong>from</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> Rupees to Nepalese Rupees, s<strong>in</strong>ce Indi<strong>an</strong><br />
Rupees will only rarely be accepted <strong>in</strong> Nepal. There are legal money ch<strong>an</strong>gers <strong>an</strong>d also<br />
black market operators to be found at <strong>the</strong> border, <strong>the</strong> latter not giv<strong>in</strong>g a good rate <strong>of</strong><br />
exch<strong>an</strong>ge. 409<br />
I kept walk<strong>in</strong>g forward until I reached a large area with buses <strong>an</strong>d taxis. (p.365)<br />
Buses do not cross <strong>the</strong> border between India <strong>an</strong>d Nepal, even if one has booked a<br />
through ticket <strong>from</strong> a travel agent! 410 One has to get a bus to <strong>the</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> border, walk<br />
across <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>n get <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r bus on <strong>the</strong> Nepal side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> border. The Sunauli Nepal bus<br />
station is just a few m<strong>in</strong>utes‟ walk <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> border. 411<br />
The travel guides do not talk about <strong>the</strong> Nepal side <strong>of</strong> Sunauli (Belahiya) <strong>in</strong> a<br />
complimentary m<strong>an</strong>ner. They write that it “is a thoroughly disagreeable place – <strong>an</strong><br />
unflatter<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>troduction to Nepal if you‟re just arriv<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>an</strong>d a rude send-<strong>of</strong>f if you‟re<br />
leav<strong>in</strong>g. Trucks backed up wait<strong>in</strong>g to cross <strong>the</strong> border <strong>an</strong>d buses try<strong>in</strong>g to enter <strong>an</strong>d<br />
leave <strong>the</strong> bus park produce appall<strong>in</strong>g traffic jams on <strong>the</strong> Nepal side ... The general<br />
mood among travellers f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>mselves <strong>in</strong> this hell is despair, or <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> those<br />
who discover upon arrival that <strong>the</strong>y were cheated by <strong>the</strong> travel agent <strong>in</strong> Gorakhpur...” 412<br />
Buses are <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> form <strong>of</strong> public tr<strong>an</strong>sport <strong>in</strong> Nepal. They are both <strong>in</strong>credibly cheap<br />
<strong>an</strong>d very <strong>of</strong>ten <strong>in</strong>credibly uncomfortable! The government bus comp<strong>an</strong>y is Sajha<br />
Yatayat <strong>an</strong>d has dist<strong>in</strong>ctive blue <strong>an</strong>d white buses. They are very shabby, poorly<br />
ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>an</strong>d rarely run to schedule <strong>an</strong>d consequently <strong>the</strong>y are not recommended.<br />
There are also dozens <strong>of</strong> private bus comp<strong>an</strong>ies, some <strong>of</strong> which have just one bus. Here<br />
<strong>the</strong>re is a great r<strong>an</strong>ge <strong>of</strong> comfort or discomfort. 413<br />
The bus book<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>fice <strong>in</strong> Sunauli Nepal is at <strong>the</strong> bus st<strong>an</strong>d <strong>an</strong>d it opens at four o‟clock<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g. S<strong>in</strong>ce most buses <strong>in</strong> Nepal travell<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> a nor<strong>the</strong>rly direction start <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
journey <strong>in</strong> Sunauli, if a passenger w<strong>an</strong>ts a good seat he is advised to embark <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
409<br />
Spiritual Guides, op. cit.<br />
410<br />
Ibid.<br />
411<br />
How to travel by tra<strong>in</strong> to <strong>an</strong>d <strong>from</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du & Nepal ... (www.seat61.com/Nepal.htm - accessed<br />
23 June 2010).<br />
412<br />
Travel sl<strong>an</strong>g (www.travelsl<strong>an</strong>g.com/zTravelGuidesSonauli%20(Belahiya).html - accessed 25 July<br />
2011).<br />
413<br />
Nepal Gett<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>re & around – Bus & tram (www.lonelypl<strong>an</strong>et.com/nepal/tr<strong>an</strong>sport/gett<strong>in</strong>g-<br />
around#167016 – accessed 25 July 2011).
79<br />
Buses c<strong>an</strong> be reserved <strong>in</strong> adv<strong>an</strong>ce, but only on <strong>the</strong> day <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir departure. 414 From this<br />
bus station <strong>the</strong>re are also m<strong>an</strong>y daytime buses to <strong>the</strong> capital city, Kathm<strong>an</strong>du. 415<br />
I hired a rickshaw driven by a robust young Nepali. I asked him to take me to <strong>the</strong> closest<br />
hotel. He told me it was around forty [<strong>in</strong>correct tr<strong>an</strong>slation – should be four] kilometres.<br />
We set out for <strong>the</strong> city [<strong>of</strong> Bhairawa]. (p.366)<br />
A h<strong>an</strong>dbook on Nepal writes that “jeeps <strong>an</strong>d rickshaw provide easy <strong>an</strong>d regular<br />
tr<strong>an</strong>sport between <strong>the</strong> two [Sunauli Nepal <strong>an</strong>d Bhairawa]” 416 The 4 kilometre journey<br />
between Sunauli (Belahiya) to Bhairawa (also known as Bhairahawa), goes along <strong>the</strong><br />
Siddhartha Highway (National Highway 29). 417<br />
Ronen had a choice <strong>of</strong> different modes <strong>of</strong> tr<strong>an</strong>sport to go <strong>from</strong> Sunauli to Bhairawa.<br />
S<strong>in</strong>ce he obviously w<strong>an</strong>ted to get as far away <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> border as quickly as possible, it<br />
is likely that he chose <strong>the</strong> first tr<strong>an</strong>sport that was available, <strong>an</strong>d that happened to be a<br />
rickshaw<br />
Bhairawa <strong>an</strong>d Sunauli (Belahiya) Nepal are <strong>in</strong> general only visited by people cross<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>the</strong> border or those visit<strong>in</strong>g or mak<strong>in</strong>g Buddhist pilgrimages to Lumb<strong>in</strong>i. 418 (Lumb<strong>in</strong>i,<br />
<strong>the</strong> birth place <strong>of</strong> Buddha, is about 25 kilometres <strong>from</strong> Bhairawa <strong>an</strong>d about a 50<br />
m<strong>in</strong>utes drive. 419 ) Although Bhairawa was renamed Siddharth<strong>an</strong>agar, after Buddha‟s<br />
childhood name, it is still more commonly referred to as Bhairawa. 420 Bhairawa is a<br />
town with a population <strong>of</strong> about 60,000. Although Nepali is <strong>the</strong> national l<strong>an</strong>guage, most<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bhairawa residents speak <strong>the</strong> local l<strong>an</strong>guage Bhojpuri. 421 A number <strong>of</strong> good<br />
schools are located <strong>the</strong>re <strong>an</strong>d this attracts pupils <strong>from</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r parts <strong>of</strong> Nepal. 422 It has a<br />
better selection <strong>an</strong>d quality hotels <strong>an</strong>d restaur<strong>an</strong>ts th<strong>an</strong> Sunauli. 423<br />
As we neared <strong>the</strong> city [<strong>of</strong> Bhairawa] Nepali guards at a checkpo<strong>in</strong>t stopped us. ...<br />
Fortunately after a short conversation ... <strong>the</strong> guards gestured <strong>the</strong> driver to cont<strong>in</strong>ue. „What<br />
did <strong>the</strong> guards w<strong>an</strong>ted?‟ I asked <strong>the</strong> driver. „In Nepal <strong>the</strong>re is a serious problem <strong>of</strong><br />
rebellion aga<strong>in</strong>st <strong>the</strong> government. Because <strong>of</strong> that <strong>the</strong>re are checkpo<strong>in</strong>ts everywhere <strong>an</strong>d<br />
you‟ll see <strong>the</strong> city is full <strong>of</strong> police <strong>an</strong>d soldiers who are look<strong>in</strong>g for <strong>the</strong> rebels. (p.366)<br />
414<br />
Spiritual Guides, op. cit.<br />
415<br />
How to travel by tra<strong>in</strong> to <strong>an</strong>d <strong>from</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du & Nepal..., op. cit.<br />
416 nd<br />
Tom Woodhatch, Footpr<strong>in</strong>t Nepal H<strong>an</strong>dbook 2 ed. (Footpr<strong>in</strong>t H<strong>an</strong>dbooks: Bath Engl<strong>an</strong>d, 1999)<br />
p.401.<br />
417<br />
Google Maps – get directions.<br />
418<br />
Footpr<strong>in</strong>t Nepal H<strong>an</strong>dbook, op. cit., p.401.<br />
419<br />
Google Maps – get directions.<br />
420<br />
Bhairawa: Gateway to Lumb<strong>in</strong>i (www.nepal.com/central/bhairawa - accessed 24 June 2010).<br />
421<br />
Visit Nepal (visitnepal2008today.blogspot.com/2008/01/siddharth<strong>an</strong>agarbhairahawa.html -<br />
accessed 26 July 2011).<br />
422 Bhairawa: Gateway to Lumb<strong>in</strong>i, op. cit.<br />
423 Footpr<strong>in</strong>t Nepal H<strong>an</strong>dbook, op. cit., p.401.
80<br />
Between <strong>the</strong> years 1996 to 2006, <strong>the</strong>re was <strong>the</strong> Nepali Civil war <strong>in</strong> which <strong>the</strong>re was a<br />
conflict between Nepali government forces <strong>an</strong>d Maoist (Communist Party <strong>of</strong> Nepal)<br />
rebels. The aim <strong>of</strong> this conflict was that <strong>the</strong> Maoists w<strong>an</strong>ted to overthrow <strong>the</strong> Nepalese<br />
monarchy <strong>an</strong>d establish a “People‟s Republic <strong>of</strong> Nepal”. Dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> this<br />
conflict, nearly 13,000 people were killed. F<strong>in</strong>ally, most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Maoist dem<strong>an</strong>ds were<br />
conceded <strong>an</strong>d a peace agreement signed. A Constituent Assembly election was held <strong>an</strong>d<br />
<strong>the</strong> monarchy <strong>in</strong> Nepal was abolished. 424 However, Ronen‟s <strong>escape</strong> was prior to <strong>the</strong><br />
term<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>of</strong> this war <strong>an</strong>d hence <strong>the</strong> numerous police <strong>an</strong>d soldiers on <strong>the</strong> roads. In <strong>the</strong><br />
months prior to Ronen‟s <strong>escape</strong>, a packed passenger bus r<strong>an</strong> over a Maoist l<strong>an</strong>dm<strong>in</strong>e<br />
result<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> kill<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> 38 civili<strong>an</strong>s <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>jur<strong>in</strong>g over <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r 70. In addition, <strong>the</strong><br />
Maoists had killed 40 security men. 425<br />
As a result <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se acts <strong>of</strong> terrorism by <strong>the</strong> Maoists, <strong>the</strong> Nepalese government<br />
established <strong>in</strong> 2001, <strong>an</strong> Armed Police Force, a paramilitary force which was org<strong>an</strong>ised<br />
as combat brigades <strong>an</strong>d whose aim was to crack down on <strong>the</strong>se acts <strong>of</strong> terrorism. Each<br />
combat brigade was responsible for a different region <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country. This Armed<br />
Police Force has 12 roles which <strong>in</strong>clude controll<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>y ongo<strong>in</strong>g or would be armed<br />
conflict, controll<strong>in</strong>g armed rebellion or separatist activities, <strong>an</strong>d controll<strong>in</strong>g terrorist<br />
activities <strong>an</strong>d riots with<strong>in</strong> Nepal. The service is voluntary <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> m<strong>in</strong>imum age for<br />
enrollment is 18 years. It started with 15,000 members taken <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> police <strong>an</strong>d army<br />
personnel <strong>an</strong>d by 2010 it had grown to about 40,000. 426 No figures have been found for<br />
September 2005, but one could estimate it to be over 20,000 members. This Armed<br />
Police Force is distributed throughout <strong>the</strong> country, <strong>an</strong>d around border areas.<br />
Shortly after, we arrived at a hotel. I went <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> hotel <strong>an</strong>d asked at <strong>the</strong> reception desk<br />
for a room for a few hours. They asked me for two hundred Nepali rupees. (p.366)<br />
There are number <strong>of</strong> hotels <strong>in</strong> Bhairawa <strong>an</strong>d m<strong>an</strong>y <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m are situated on B<strong>an</strong>k Road<br />
which runs to <strong>the</strong> west <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> Siddhatha Highway. One first passes Market Road <strong>an</strong>d<br />
just under half a kilometre fur<strong>the</strong>r on, one reaches B<strong>an</strong>k Road. 427<br />
As to be expected, <strong>the</strong> various hotels <strong>in</strong> Bhairawa are <strong>of</strong> different degrees <strong>of</strong> comfort.<br />
For example, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m <strong>in</strong> a h<strong>an</strong>dbook <strong>of</strong> Nepal <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> year 2006 is described as “a<br />
typical no-frills, budget place. Rooms are reasonably large <strong>an</strong>d cle<strong>an</strong> but showers are<br />
cold”; <strong>the</strong> price for a room with a bathroom was quoted as 200 rupees. In contrast, for a<br />
different hotel, this h<strong>an</strong>dbook wrote that it is “<strong>the</strong> best place <strong>in</strong> town.... [It] has attentive<br />
staff, <strong>an</strong> excellent restaur<strong>an</strong>t, huge rooms <strong>an</strong>d properly hot showers. Rooms are pretty<br />
424<br />
Wikipedia: Nepalese Civil War – accessed 27 July 2011.<br />
425<br />
Ibid.<br />
426<br />
Wikipedia: Armed Police Force Nepal – accessed 27 July 2011; Government <strong>of</strong> Nepal Armed Police<br />
Force: Introduction (www.apf.gov.np/<strong>in</strong>troduction/<strong>in</strong>troduction.php - accessed 27 July 2011) , Roles<br />
(www.apf.gov.np/role/role.php - accessed 27 July 2011).<br />
427<br />
Nepal Lonely Pl<strong>an</strong>et, op. cit., p.289.
81<br />
much perfect <strong>an</strong>d you have <strong>the</strong> option <strong>of</strong> air-con [air-condition<strong>in</strong>g]”; here, as to be<br />
expected, <strong>the</strong> price was much higher <strong>an</strong>d was quoted as 500-1,200 rupees. 428 . For this<br />
latter hotel, a feedback by a tourist “karuna” who was <strong>the</strong>re <strong>in</strong> 2007 stated “<strong>the</strong> staff ...<br />
were really, really helpful <strong>an</strong>d friendly. They c<strong>an</strong> arr<strong>an</strong>ge taxis across <strong>the</strong> border to<br />
Gorakhpur if you‟ve had it up to <strong>the</strong> ears with buses, which I had.” 429 For <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r hotel<br />
stayed at <strong>in</strong> 2002, “barbara” wrote that it “is basic but v[ery] friendly & <strong>the</strong> restaur<strong>an</strong>t‟s<br />
pretty good.” 430 However, <strong>the</strong>re are also less complimentary comments on <strong>the</strong> hotels. A<br />
tourist who <strong>in</strong> 2009 w<strong>an</strong>ted a particular hotel which <strong>the</strong> rickshaw driver could not f<strong>in</strong>d<br />
<strong>an</strong>d thus ended up <strong>in</strong> a hotel about half a kilometre away, wrote, “He [<strong>the</strong> rickshaw<br />
driver] ended up tak<strong>in</strong>g me everywhere but my dest<strong>in</strong>ation – <strong>the</strong> idiot! We ended <strong>the</strong><br />
pseudo-journey <strong>in</strong> front <strong>of</strong> a washed-out white Hotel ... Unfortunately, I was too tired to<br />
look for <strong>an</strong>y o<strong>the</strong>r hotel. So I succumbed to <strong>the</strong> charade <strong>an</strong>d got a 1,000 rupee room that<br />
didn‟t even have <strong>an</strong> AC [air-condition<strong>in</strong>g].” 431<br />
Ronen does not give <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel he went to. However, <strong>the</strong> 200 rupees he paid<br />
for <strong>the</strong> room might <strong>in</strong>dicate one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> less luxurious hotels.<br />
[From <strong>the</strong> moment <strong>of</strong> his <strong>escape</strong>, Ronen had been <strong>in</strong> regular telephonic contact with his<br />
family <strong>in</strong> Israel. His bro<strong>the</strong>r Ari travelled to Nepal to meet him <strong>the</strong>re <strong>an</strong>d that morn<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>y<br />
met <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel lobby.] We went up to <strong>the</strong> room <strong>an</strong>d let our emotions out ... we prayed <strong>an</strong><br />
emotional Shacharit. (p.367)<br />
There are three services which a Jew needs to pray on a regular weekday. They are<br />
shacharit – <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g service; m<strong>in</strong>chah – <strong>the</strong> afternoon service; <strong>an</strong>d ma‟ariv – <strong>the</strong><br />
even<strong>in</strong>g service. 432 There are def<strong>in</strong>ite time periods laid down <strong>in</strong> Jewish law for pray<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>the</strong>se services. Shacharit must be recited <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d c<strong>an</strong> be done so up to until<br />
one third <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> light part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day has passed. 433 There are differ<strong>in</strong>g op<strong>in</strong>ions as to<br />
how to calculate this “one third”, <strong>the</strong> op<strong>in</strong>ion which gives <strong>the</strong> latest time uses sunrise as<br />
<strong>the</strong> beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day <strong>an</strong>d sunset as <strong>the</strong> end. 434 In emergency, some allow one to<br />
pray shacharit until midday. 435<br />
The coord<strong>in</strong>ates <strong>of</strong> Bhairawa are: latitude 27.3 N <strong>an</strong>d longitude 83.3 E. 436 The time <strong>in</strong><br />
Nepal is +5 hours 45 m<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>from</strong> GMT 437 <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> 2005 <strong>the</strong>re was no daylight sav<strong>in</strong>g<br />
428<br />
Ibid., pp.290-91.<br />
429<br />
IndiaMike: Anyone used Cosmic Air? – accessed 16 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012.<br />
430<br />
IndiaMike: Tra<strong>in</strong> travel <strong>in</strong> India – accessed 16 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012.<br />
431<br />
Eye <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Sky: Restless <strong>an</strong>d Stuck <strong>in</strong> Bhairawa Nepal (eye-<strong>in</strong>-<strong>the</strong>-bluesky.blogspot.com/2009/11/restless-<strong>an</strong>d-stuck-<strong>in</strong>-bhairawa-nepal.html<br />
- accessed 27 July 2011).<br />
432<br />
Rambam, Mishnah Torah, seder Ahavah, Hilchot Tefillah 1:5, 6, 8.<br />
433<br />
Ibid., 3:1; Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 89:1.<br />
434<br />
Vilna Gaon on Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 459:2 “veshiur mil”; Mishnah Berurah 58:4 ; Aruch<br />
Hashulch<strong>an</strong>, Orach Chaim 58:14.<br />
435<br />
Rambam, Mishnah Torah, seder Ahavah, Hilchot Tefillah 3:1; Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 89:1.<br />
436 Wikipedia: Siddharth<strong>an</strong>agar [Bhairawa] – accessed 16 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012.
82<br />
time throughout <strong>the</strong> year <strong>in</strong> Nepal. 438 On 2 October 2005, <strong>the</strong> latest time for pray<strong>in</strong>g<br />
shacharit under normal conditions was 9.42, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> emergency at midday which was<br />
at 11.42. 439<br />
Ronen does not state <strong>the</strong> time he prayed Shacharit that day. However he states that he<br />
arrived <strong>in</strong> Sunauli at eight o‟clock <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g. He <strong>the</strong>n had to reach <strong>the</strong> border,<br />
cross it, take a rickshaw to Bhairawa, f<strong>in</strong>d a hotel, register <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel <strong>an</strong>d wait for Ari<br />
to arrive. It would thus seem unlikely that Ronen <strong>an</strong>d Ari prayed Shacharit before 9.42,<br />
although noon seems possible.<br />
When pray<strong>in</strong>g shacharit one puts on a tallit <strong>an</strong>d tefill<strong>in</strong>. 440 However, <strong>the</strong> book makes no<br />
mention <strong>of</strong> this, although it is almost certa<strong>in</strong> that Ari had a tallit <strong>an</strong>d tefill<strong>in</strong> with him<br />
when he came to Bhairawa. Ronen did not m<strong>an</strong>age to br<strong>in</strong>g his tallit <strong>an</strong>d tefill<strong>in</strong> with<br />
him when he <strong>escape</strong>d.<br />
[Ari told Ronen that <strong>the</strong>y would] leave <strong>the</strong> country [Nepal] as soon as possible. „Maybe we<br />
we will even make it to Um<strong>an</strong>.‟ ... I knew it wasn‟t possible. It was Sunday <strong>an</strong>d Rosh<br />
Hash<strong>an</strong>ah was <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g night. (p.368)<br />
Dur<strong>in</strong>g his lifetime, Rebbe Nachm<strong>an</strong> <strong>of</strong> Breslov encouraged his followers to spend each<br />
Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah with him. Hundreds <strong>of</strong> his followers would come to him for <strong>the</strong> Rosh<br />
Hash<strong>an</strong>ah prayers, festive meals <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> special Torah lessons which he delivered. He<br />
died <strong>in</strong> 1810 <strong>an</strong>d was buried <strong>in</strong> Um<strong>an</strong> which is now <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ukra<strong>in</strong>e. The follow<strong>in</strong>g year,<br />
his ma<strong>in</strong> disciple, Rebbe Noson, started to org<strong>an</strong>ise a pilgrimage to his grave for Rosh<br />
Hash<strong>an</strong>ah. From <strong>the</strong>n on, every year, hundreds <strong>of</strong> Chasidim would come <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Ukra<strong>in</strong>e, Belarus, Lithu<strong>an</strong>ia, <strong>an</strong>d Pol<strong>an</strong>d to visit his grave on Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah. However,<br />
this pilgrimage came to a halt with <strong>the</strong> Bolshevik Revolution <strong>of</strong> 1917, which sealed <strong>the</strong><br />
border between Russia <strong>an</strong>d Pol<strong>an</strong>d, <strong>an</strong>d Um<strong>an</strong> became a closed city <strong>an</strong>d foreigners<br />
were strictly prohibited <strong>from</strong> enter<strong>in</strong>g it. However, dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> 1920s <strong>an</strong>d 1930s,<br />
Breslover Chasidim <strong>in</strong> Russia cont<strong>in</strong>ued to go every Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah cl<strong>an</strong>dest<strong>in</strong>ely to<br />
Um<strong>an</strong>. The Second World War seems to have put a stop to <strong>the</strong>se pilgrimages <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y<br />
resumed on a small scale <strong>in</strong> 1948 when eleven Breslover Chasidim m<strong>an</strong>aged to travel<br />
<strong>from</strong> various cities with<strong>in</strong> Russia to Um<strong>an</strong>, <strong>an</strong>d until <strong>the</strong> 1970s a similar number went<br />
<strong>the</strong>re. In addition, <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1960s until <strong>the</strong> fall <strong>of</strong> Communism <strong>in</strong> 1989, several hundred<br />
Israeli <strong>an</strong>d Americ<strong>an</strong> Jews would <strong>an</strong>nually make <strong>the</strong>ir way to Um<strong>an</strong>, both legally <strong>an</strong>d<br />
illegally. After <strong>the</strong> fall <strong>of</strong> Communism, <strong>the</strong>re were no bars to go<strong>in</strong>g to Um<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d <strong>from</strong><br />
year to year <strong>the</strong> numbers go<strong>in</strong>g each Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah dramatically <strong>in</strong>creased. In <strong>the</strong> year<br />
437<br />
Time<strong>an</strong>ddate.com (www.time<strong>an</strong>ddate.com/worldclock/city.html?n=117 – accessed 16 J<strong>an</strong>uary<br />
2012).<br />
438<br />
Time<strong>an</strong>ddate,com (www.time<strong>an</strong>ddate.com/worldclock/timezone.html?n=117&syear=2000 –<br />
accessed 16 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
439 Acknowledgements to Rabbi Dr. E.liyahu Simons <strong>of</strong> Haifa for <strong>in</strong>formation.<br />
440 Siddur – before shacharit; Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 25:4.
83<br />
2005, <strong>the</strong> year <strong>of</strong> Ronen‟s <strong>escape</strong>, about 20,000 men <strong>an</strong>d boys <strong>from</strong> all countries <strong>an</strong>d all<br />
backgrounds arrived <strong>in</strong> Um<strong>an</strong> for Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah. 441<br />
Um<strong>an</strong>, (which is a 4 hour bus ride <strong>from</strong> Kiev, <strong>the</strong> capital <strong>of</strong> Ukra<strong>in</strong>e), rests on <strong>the</strong> b<strong>an</strong>ks<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Um<strong>an</strong>ka River <strong>an</strong>d it serves as <strong>the</strong> adm<strong>in</strong>istrative centre <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Um<strong>an</strong>skyi Raion<br />
(district). Its history goes back to <strong>the</strong> year 1616, when it was a defensive fort built<br />
aga<strong>in</strong>st Tatar raids <strong>an</strong>d a Cossack regiment was stationed <strong>in</strong> that town. Amongst <strong>the</strong><br />
famous l<strong>an</strong>dmarks <strong>in</strong> Um<strong>an</strong> is <strong>the</strong> park complex S<strong>of</strong>iyivka, which was founded <strong>in</strong> 1796<br />
by Count St<strong>an</strong>isław Szczęsny Potocki, who named it for his wife S<strong>of</strong>ia. The park<br />
features a number <strong>of</strong> waterfalls <strong>an</strong>d narrow, arch<strong>in</strong>g stone bridges cross<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> streams<br />
<strong>an</strong>d scenic rav<strong>in</strong>es. Of this park Rebbe Nachm<strong>an</strong>n would say “To be <strong>in</strong> Um<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d not<br />
go <strong>the</strong>re?” <strong>an</strong>d it has been suggested that <strong>the</strong> bridges <strong>in</strong> this park may have <strong>in</strong>spired him<br />
for his famous quote: “All <strong>the</strong> world is just a narrow bridge, but <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> th<strong>in</strong>g is not to<br />
fear”. These words <strong>in</strong> Hebrew have been set to music, <strong>an</strong>d it is sung by Jews around <strong>the</strong><br />
world. 442<br />
There was a large Jewish community <strong>in</strong> Um<strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> 18th <strong>an</strong>d 19th centuries. However,<br />
dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> Second World War, <strong>the</strong> Nazis deported <strong>an</strong>d murdered <strong>the</strong> Jews liv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
They also completely destroyed <strong>the</strong> large Jewish cemetery, which <strong>in</strong>cluded <strong>the</strong> grave <strong>of</strong><br />
Rebbe Nachm<strong>an</strong>. After <strong>the</strong> war, a Breslov Chasid located <strong>the</strong> grave by f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g two<br />
metal poles which had been at <strong>the</strong> head <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> foot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> grave. S<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong> fall <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Soviet Union, <strong>the</strong> Breslovs have completely refurbished <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> grave <strong>an</strong>d have<br />
built a number <strong>of</strong> build<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> area which <strong>in</strong>clude a large Synagogue, a number <strong>of</strong><br />
mikvahs (ritual baths) <strong>an</strong>d a n<strong>in</strong>e floor hotel called Shaarei Zion to accommodate at<br />
least some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Jews visit<strong>in</strong>g Um<strong>an</strong>. 443<br />
[Ari said to Ronen] There are two options [to get to Kathm<strong>an</strong>du]. The first is we travel by<br />
car or tra<strong>in</strong>; it‟s a ten hour trip, <strong>the</strong>re are a lot <strong>of</strong> checkpo<strong>in</strong>ts along <strong>the</strong> way, <strong>an</strong>d I don‟t<br />
th<strong>in</strong>k it‟s worth <strong>the</strong> risk. (p.368)<br />
Actually <strong>the</strong>re are no tra<strong>in</strong>s <strong>in</strong> Nepal, o<strong>the</strong>r th<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong> obscure br<strong>an</strong>ch l<strong>in</strong>e <strong>from</strong> India <strong>of</strong><br />
limited <strong>in</strong>terest to travellers, <strong>the</strong> reason be<strong>in</strong>g that <strong>the</strong> l<strong>an</strong>dscape is so mounta<strong>in</strong>ous. 444<br />
One c<strong>an</strong> however travel between Bhairawa <strong>an</strong>d Kathm<strong>an</strong>du by car or bus. In 2012,<br />
“Google Maps” suggested a route for cars which was <strong>of</strong> dist<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>of</strong> about 280<br />
kilometres. It went via Bharatpur <strong>an</strong>d Benighat, <strong>an</strong>d took just over 6 hours. 445<br />
441<br />
Wikipedia: Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>a kibbutz – accessed 30 June 2010.<br />
442<br />
Wikipedia: Um<strong>an</strong> – accessed 14 August 2011; Um<strong>an</strong> city, Ukra<strong>in</strong>e (ukra<strong>in</strong>etrek.com/um<strong>an</strong>-city –<br />
accessed 31 July 2011).<br />
443<br />
Wikipedia: Um<strong>an</strong>, op. cit.; Um<strong>an</strong>! Um<strong>an</strong>! Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah! (Breslov Research Institute: Jerusalem,<br />
1992) (www.breslov.com/bri/um<strong>an</strong>rh.html#chapter4 – accessed 17 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012); hotel Shaarei Zion,<br />
Um<strong>an</strong> (www.stejka.com/4erkasskaja/um<strong>an</strong>/hotel/waarey_cion/ - accessed 14 August 2011).<br />
444<br />
Katham<strong>an</strong>du <strong>an</strong>d Nepal... Country <strong>in</strong>formation (www.seat61.com/Nepal.htm – accessed 14 August<br />
2011); Nepal Tr<strong>an</strong>sport (www.nepaltravelpl<strong>an</strong>.co.uk/nepal-tr<strong>an</strong>sport.htm - accessed 14 August 2011)
84<br />
Buses <strong>from</strong> Bhairawa to Kathm<strong>an</strong>du take about 9 to 12 hours, <strong>an</strong>d cost about 120<br />
Nepalese Rupees (as at 2010). There are m<strong>an</strong>y buses every day, <strong>the</strong> daytime ones<br />
leav<strong>in</strong>g regularly until about eleven o‟clock <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> overnight ones<br />
leav<strong>in</strong>g regularly <strong>from</strong> about four o‟clock until seven o‟clock <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> afternoon. 446<br />
As stated above, at <strong>the</strong> period <strong>of</strong> Ronen‟s <strong>escape</strong>, <strong>the</strong>re was a Maoist <strong>in</strong>surgence <strong>in</strong><br />
Nepal. The terrorists were attack<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> vehicles on <strong>the</strong> road. 447 Thus <strong>the</strong>re were a lot<br />
<strong>of</strong> police checks on <strong>the</strong> roads.<br />
The second option is to take a flight. The airport is fifteen m<strong>in</strong>utes away <strong>from</strong> here, <strong>an</strong>d it‟s<br />
<strong>an</strong> hour <strong>an</strong>d a half flight. ... We immediately hailed a taxi <strong>an</strong>d after fifteen m<strong>in</strong>utes arrived<br />
at <strong>the</strong> small primitive airport. (p.368)<br />
Bhairawa has its own airport, operated by <strong>the</strong> Nepalese government. It is one <strong>of</strong><br />
Nepal‟s busiest airports <strong>an</strong>d its <strong>of</strong>ficial name is Gautam Buddha Airport, be<strong>in</strong>g named<br />
after Buddha who was born <strong>in</strong> nearby Lumb<strong>in</strong>i. The airport is about three kilometres to<br />
<strong>the</strong> west <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotels <strong>in</strong> B<strong>an</strong>k Road. 448 It is a small airport s<strong>in</strong>ce it only has one runway<br />
which is <strong>of</strong> length <strong>of</strong> about one <strong>an</strong>d a half kilometres. The airport does not <strong>of</strong>fer <strong>the</strong><br />
type <strong>of</strong> amenities which tourists are used to <strong>in</strong> larger places. 449<br />
The <strong>in</strong>adequacy <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water at this airport was described <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> article <strong>in</strong> “The<br />
Kathm<strong>an</strong>du Post” <strong>in</strong> May 2008. The article is by Madhav Dhung<strong>an</strong>a (who <strong>of</strong>ten wrote<br />
for this newspaper) <strong>an</strong>d is headed “Bhairahawa airport s<strong>an</strong>s water”. Dhung<strong>an</strong>a writes<br />
“If you happen to visit Bhairahawa Airport, you might as well equip yourself with a<br />
bottle <strong>of</strong> m<strong>in</strong>eral water. Water supply <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> restroom <strong>in</strong>side this airport runs<br />
<strong>in</strong>termittently, <strong>an</strong>d no one really enjoys <strong>the</strong> idea <strong>of</strong> dry cough<strong>in</strong>g faucets <strong>in</strong>side public<br />
toilets, especially when it belongs to <strong>an</strong> airport... This problem has persisted for years<br />
but <strong>the</strong> airport adm<strong>in</strong>istration has not tended to it... The so-called water t<strong>an</strong>ks <strong>in</strong>side <strong>the</strong><br />
airport are <strong>in</strong>fested with <strong>in</strong>sects <strong>an</strong>d foul smell<strong>in</strong>g scum. Even <strong>the</strong> compla<strong>in</strong>t box, which<br />
is stiffed full <strong>of</strong> compla<strong>in</strong>ts <strong>an</strong>d suggestions, has not been opened s<strong>in</strong>ce years.” 450<br />
As we crossed <strong>the</strong> threshold [<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> airport] four policemen approached us „Passport<br />
please‟. (p.368)<br />
445<br />
Google Maps – get directions.<br />
446<br />
How to travel by tra<strong>in</strong> to <strong>an</strong>d <strong>from</strong>, op. cit.<br />
447<br />
Wikipedia: Nepalese Civil War, op. cit.<br />
448<br />
Google Maps – get directions.<br />
449<br />
Wikipedia: Gautam Buddha Airport – accessed 15 August 2011; Wikipedia: Bhairahawa – accessed<br />
26 July 2011: Flights to Gautam Buddha Airport (BWA) Bhairawa,<br />
(www.book<strong>in</strong>gwiz.com/Bhairawa/Flights/9105 - accessed 15 August 2011); Google Maps – get<br />
directions.<br />
450 “Bhairahawa airport s<strong>an</strong>s water”, The Kathm<strong>an</strong>du Post, 4 May 2008.
85<br />
S<strong>in</strong>ce this was just <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternal flight with<strong>in</strong> Nepal, it was unexpected that <strong>the</strong>re would<br />
be passport <strong>in</strong>spection. Perhaps this was due <strong>the</strong> political situation <strong>in</strong> Nepal.<br />
I took out my passport <strong>an</strong>d gave it to <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>ficer. ... [In <strong>the</strong> same pocket as <strong>the</strong> passport<br />
were almonds which Eliezer‟s wife had given Ronen <strong>in</strong> Var<strong>an</strong>asi.] I reached <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> bag<br />
<strong>of</strong> almonds, made a bless<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d ate <strong>an</strong> almond. (p.369)<br />
Accord<strong>in</strong>g to Jewish Law, it is forbidden to benefit <strong>from</strong> <strong>an</strong>yth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> this world,<br />
without giv<strong>in</strong>g th<strong>an</strong>ks to <strong>the</strong> Almighty, <strong>an</strong>d this is done by recit<strong>in</strong>g a bless<strong>in</strong>g. Not to do<br />
so would be regarded as steal<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> Almighty. 451 The Rabbis <strong>the</strong>refore<br />
formulated six bless<strong>in</strong>gs to be recited before eat<strong>in</strong>g or dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>y k<strong>in</strong>d <strong>of</strong> food, <strong>the</strong><br />
particular bless<strong>in</strong>g to be recited is determ<strong>in</strong>ed by <strong>the</strong> nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> food be<strong>in</strong>g<br />
consumed. 452<br />
The bless<strong>in</strong>g recited before eat<strong>in</strong>g almonds is <strong>the</strong> bless<strong>in</strong>g recited before eat<strong>in</strong>g<br />
products <strong>of</strong> trees, namely fruits, <strong>an</strong>d is “who creates <strong>the</strong> fruit <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tree”. 453 This was<br />
obviously <strong>the</strong> bless<strong>in</strong>g recited by Ronen at <strong>the</strong> airport.<br />
The almond tree (Prunus dulcis) is a small deciduous tree grow<strong>in</strong>g to between 4 <strong>an</strong>d 10<br />
meters <strong>in</strong> height, with a trunk <strong>of</strong> up to 30 centimetres <strong>in</strong> diameter. These trees beg<strong>in</strong> to<br />
bear <strong>an</strong> economic crop <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> third year after pl<strong>an</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g but <strong>the</strong> trees only reach a full<br />
bear<strong>in</strong>g between five to six years after pl<strong>an</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g. The fruit is mature <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> autumn, 7–8<br />
months after flower<strong>in</strong>g. In bot<strong>an</strong>ical terms, <strong>the</strong> fruit <strong>of</strong> <strong>an</strong> almond tree is <strong>in</strong> fact not a<br />
true nut but a drupe, which consists <strong>of</strong> <strong>an</strong> outer hull over a hard shell with <strong>the</strong> almond<br />
“nut” <strong>in</strong>side. This tree is to be found, amongst o<strong>the</strong>r places, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Middle East <strong>an</strong>d Far<br />
East, which would <strong>in</strong>clude India <strong>an</strong>d Nepal. 454<br />
[The <strong>of</strong>ficer asked what <strong>the</strong>se almonds were] There are no almonds <strong>in</strong> Nepal <strong>an</strong>d<br />
apparently <strong>the</strong>y had never seen <strong>the</strong>m <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir life. … I generously gave <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> entire bag<br />
[<strong>of</strong> almonds], <strong>an</strong>d took my passport <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>ficer‟s h<strong>an</strong>d, which he didn‟t even <strong>in</strong>spect<br />
… <strong>an</strong>d got out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>re as fast as we could. (p.369)<br />
It is <strong>in</strong>correct to say that “<strong>the</strong>re are no almonds <strong>in</strong> Nepal”. In <strong>an</strong> undated report<br />
(probably about 1998-99) entitled “Deciduous Fruit Production <strong>in</strong> Nepal” written by<br />
Lok Nath Devkota, <strong>the</strong> Chief <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Fruit Development Division, Department <strong>of</strong><br />
Agriculture, <strong>in</strong> Nepal, <strong>the</strong> writer states that <strong>in</strong> 1997 <strong>the</strong>re were 900 “government<br />
nurseries” for almonds, but no private nurseries. However, it should be added that this<br />
was far fewer th<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong> “nurseries” (government <strong>an</strong>d private) for apples, pears, peaches,<br />
451<br />
Babyloni<strong>an</strong> Talmud, Berachot 35a; Rambam, Mishnah Torah, seder Ahavah, Hilchot Berachot 1:2.<br />
452<br />
Talmudic Encyclopedia, vol.4 (Jerusalem, 1956), col.330.<br />
453<br />
Rambam, Mishnah Torah, seder Ahavah, Hilchot Berachot 8:1; Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch, Orach Chaim 202:1.<br />
454 Wikipedia: Almond – accessed 16 August 2011.
86<br />
plums <strong>an</strong>d walnuts. This report also states that <strong>the</strong> areas where <strong>the</strong>se almonds were<br />
grown were <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> high mounta<strong>in</strong> region <strong>of</strong> Nepal. 455<br />
A more relev<strong>an</strong>t po<strong>in</strong>t could be <strong>the</strong> market availability <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se almonds to <strong>the</strong> general<br />
public. A tourist <strong>in</strong> September 2007 reports on his travels <strong>in</strong> Nepal, “As it was our last<br />
day we w<strong>an</strong>dered around town [Kathm<strong>an</strong>du] look<strong>in</strong>g for snacks for our trip, we ended<br />
up buy<strong>in</strong>g 2 kilos <strong>of</strong> almonds <strong>an</strong>d raisens (sic) for a homemade trail mix, after much<br />
haggl<strong>in</strong>g, apparently almonds come <strong>from</strong> India which expla<strong>in</strong>s why <strong>the</strong>y are so<br />
expensive <strong>in</strong> Nepal.” 456<br />
Due to <strong>the</strong> price <strong>an</strong>d also probably limited availability <strong>of</strong> almonds <strong>in</strong> Nepal, it is<br />
plausible that <strong>the</strong>se policemen had never seen <strong>the</strong>m, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y were thus delighted to<br />
receive <strong>the</strong>m <strong>from</strong> Ronen.<br />
As is customary <strong>in</strong> this part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world, a little baksheesh c<strong>an</strong> go a long way!<br />
After a short wait, we boarded a small twenty-passenger pl<strong>an</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d took <strong>of</strong>f <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
direction <strong>of</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du. (p.369)<br />
The book does does not give <strong>an</strong>y fur<strong>the</strong>r details about which airpl<strong>an</strong>e Ronen <strong>an</strong>d Ari<br />
travelled on. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> carriers us<strong>in</strong>g this airport <strong>in</strong> Bhairawa is Buddha Air. It is<br />
based <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du <strong>an</strong>d started its operations <strong>in</strong> 1997. This carrier used <strong>the</strong> aircraft<br />
Americ<strong>an</strong> Beech 1900D which has 19 seats. This airpl<strong>an</strong>e was built by <strong>the</strong> Beech<br />
Aircraft Corporation which was founded <strong>in</strong> 1932 by Walter <strong>an</strong>d Olive Beech. Dur<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>the</strong> Second World War <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g decades it built numerous civili<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d<br />
military aircraft, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> March 1991 it was awarded a type certificate for <strong>the</strong> 1900D<br />
aircraft. 457 Ano<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> carriers us<strong>in</strong>g this airport is Yeti Airl<strong>in</strong>es. It started its<br />
operations <strong>in</strong> 1998, <strong>an</strong>d toge<strong>the</strong>r with its subsidiary forms <strong>the</strong> largest domestic airl<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong><br />
Nepal. The aircraft it used was <strong>the</strong> DHC-6 Tw<strong>in</strong> Otter, which also has 19 seats. This<br />
airpl<strong>an</strong>e is a C<strong>an</strong>adi<strong>an</strong> “Short Take<strong>of</strong>f <strong>an</strong>d L<strong>an</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g” utility aircraft which was<br />
developed by de Havill<strong>an</strong>d C<strong>an</strong>ada – (hence <strong>the</strong> letters “DHC”), a comp<strong>an</strong>y founded <strong>in</strong><br />
1928 by <strong>the</strong> British de Havill<strong>an</strong>d Aircraft Comp<strong>an</strong>y. 458 It is quite possible that Ronen<br />
<strong>an</strong>d Ari travelled on one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se aircraft, <strong>an</strong>d this is confirmed by <strong>the</strong> fact that Ronen<br />
wrote that <strong>the</strong> airpl<strong>an</strong>e was a “twenty-passenger pl<strong>an</strong>e”.<br />
455 Deciduous Fruit Production <strong>in</strong> Nepal, (www.fao.org/docrep/004/ab985e/ab985e09.htm accessed<br />
17 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
456 TravelPod – And we’re <strong>of</strong>f... (blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-<br />
entries/r<strong>an</strong>dommaia/epicworldtour/1190461980/tpod.html – accessed 17 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
457 Wikipedia: Buddha Air - accessed 31 August 2011; Ace <strong>the</strong> Himalaya<br />
(www.ace<strong>the</strong>himalaya.com/tripdetails.php?trip_id=65 accessed 5 July 2010; Hawker Beechcraft, About<br />
Us, History (www.hawkerbeechcraft.com/about_us/history/ - accessed 31 August 2011).<br />
458 Wikipedia: Yeti Airl<strong>in</strong>es – accessed 31 August 2011; Wikipedia: de Havill<strong>an</strong>d C<strong>an</strong>ada – accessed 31<br />
August 2011; Wikipedia: de Havill<strong>an</strong>d C<strong>an</strong>ada DHC-6 Tw<strong>in</strong> Otter – accessed 31 August 2011.
87<br />
In February 2008, flights <strong>from</strong> Bhairawa to Kathm<strong>an</strong>du took about 45 m<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>an</strong>d cost<br />
about $200 for foreigners <strong>an</strong>d $115 for nationals. 459<br />
The pl<strong>an</strong>e l<strong>an</strong>ded <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du <strong>an</strong>d Ari took me to <strong>the</strong> hotel <strong>in</strong> which he stayed <strong>the</strong> night<br />
before. Opposite <strong>the</strong> hotel I saw a large sign <strong>in</strong> Hebrew „Beit Chabad, Strictly Kosher<br />
Restaur<strong>an</strong>t, Synagogue, Torah Classes <strong>an</strong>d More‟. (pp.370-71)<br />
Kathm<strong>an</strong>du is <strong>the</strong> capital city <strong>of</strong> Nepal <strong>an</strong>d is also <strong>the</strong> largest metropolit<strong>an</strong> city <strong>in</strong> that<br />
country. The city is <strong>the</strong> urb<strong>an</strong> core <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du Valley <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Himalayas. Its<br />
population <strong>in</strong> 2005 (<strong>the</strong> period <strong>of</strong> Ronen‟s <strong>escape</strong>) was approach<strong>in</strong>g 800,000<br />
<strong>in</strong>habit<strong>an</strong>ts. The history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city goes back about two thous<strong>an</strong>d years, as is <strong>in</strong>ferred<br />
<strong>from</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>scription <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du Valley. However, <strong>the</strong> name “Kathm<strong>an</strong>du” is<br />
named after a structure <strong>in</strong> “Durbar Square” called Kastham<strong>an</strong>dap which is <strong>the</strong> S<strong>an</strong>skrit<br />
for “wood covered shelter” <strong>an</strong>d refers to a two story pagoda built <strong>in</strong> 1596 by K<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Laxmi Nars<strong>in</strong>gh Malla, <strong>an</strong>d it is made entirely <strong>of</strong> wood with no nails nor supports; a<br />
legend states that it was made <strong>from</strong> a s<strong>in</strong>gle tree. The term “Dunbar Square” literally<br />
me<strong>an</strong>s a place <strong>of</strong> palaces <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>re are three <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du. 460<br />
Tourism is <strong>an</strong> import<strong>an</strong>t <strong>in</strong>dustry <strong>in</strong> Nepal <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du. The neighborhood <strong>of</strong><br />
Thamel, which is on <strong>the</strong> north-western side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city, is <strong>the</strong> primary area for tourists.<br />
In that area <strong>the</strong>re are numerous hotels, guest houses <strong>an</strong>d restaur<strong>an</strong>ts. 461 However, <strong>from</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> comments made by various tourists who were <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du, it c<strong>an</strong> be seen that<br />
even <strong>the</strong> very basic amenities are not up to western st<strong>an</strong>dards. Mary Ogilvie who was<br />
<strong>the</strong>re <strong>in</strong> November 2008, wrote regard<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> water, “you have to use bottled water for<br />
even brush<strong>in</strong>g your teeth, <strong>an</strong>d are advised not to open your mouth <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> shower.... Beer<br />
is a pretty good alternative.” She added that <strong>in</strong> contrast, <strong>the</strong> plumb<strong>in</strong>g (presumably at<br />
<strong>the</strong> place where she stayed) was “<strong>in</strong> good work<strong>in</strong>g order”. 462 However, at a similar<br />
period, two o<strong>the</strong>r tourists, S<strong>an</strong>dra <strong>an</strong>d Betty, did not concur <strong>an</strong>d commented that “sewer<br />
dra<strong>in</strong>age is also very bad.” They also mentioned <strong>the</strong> serious problems with <strong>the</strong><br />
electricity <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> city <strong>an</strong>d that for only eight hours a day <strong>the</strong>re was electricity. 463<br />
Kathm<strong>an</strong>du‟s narrow streets are l<strong>in</strong>ed with numerous small shops sell<strong>in</strong>g almost<br />
everyth<strong>in</strong>g one could w<strong>an</strong>t, which <strong>in</strong>cludes food, clo<strong>the</strong>s, h<strong>an</strong>dicrafts, DVDs which are<br />
459<br />
Wikipedia: Bhairahawa (as at February 2008).<br />
460<br />
Wikipedia: Kathm<strong>an</strong>du – accessed 1 September 2011.<br />
461<br />
Ibid., Tourism; Wikipedia: Thamel – accessed 1 September 2011.<br />
462<br />
Trips abroad: First day <strong>of</strong> work (marytrip.blogspot.com/2008/11/first-day-<strong>of</strong>-work.html - accessed<br />
13 July 2010).<br />
463<br />
My Trip Journal: Kathm<strong>an</strong>du Nepal... (www.mytripjournal.com/travel-436332-food-preparation-<br />
kathm<strong>an</strong>du-nepal-rabbi-lifshitz-trekk<strong>in</strong>g-equipment - accessed 18 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).
88<br />
mostly pirated, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>re are also travel agents <strong>the</strong>re. 464 The pr<strong>in</strong>cipal l<strong>an</strong>guages<br />
spoken <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du <strong>in</strong>clude Nepali, Newari, English <strong>an</strong>d even Hebrew. 465<br />
The ma<strong>in</strong> religions <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du are H<strong>in</strong>duism <strong>an</strong>d Buddhism, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>re are a lot <strong>of</strong><br />
H<strong>in</strong>du temples <strong>an</strong>d Buddhist monasteries <strong>in</strong> this city. M<strong>an</strong>y <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Buddhists <strong>the</strong>re are<br />
Tibet<strong>an</strong> refugees. There seems to be a good relationship between <strong>the</strong>se two religions <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> city, s<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong>re are m<strong>an</strong>y places where <strong>the</strong> two religions share a shr<strong>in</strong>e. 466 Two<br />
hundred years ago, a Western tourist to <strong>the</strong> city wrote that <strong>the</strong>re were as m<strong>an</strong>y temples<br />
as <strong>the</strong>re were houses <strong>an</strong>d as m<strong>an</strong>y idols as <strong>the</strong>re were people. 467 An encyclopedic<br />
article on this city, lists adherents to o<strong>the</strong>r religions found <strong>the</strong>re, (but a smaller number<br />
th<strong>an</strong> H<strong>in</strong>dus <strong>an</strong>d Buddhists), <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>se <strong>in</strong>clude Ja<strong>in</strong>s, Sikhs, Muslims <strong>an</strong>d Christi<strong>an</strong>s. 468<br />
Jews are not listed amongst <strong>the</strong>m, s<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong> perm<strong>an</strong>ent Jewish community <strong>in</strong> Nepal is<br />
very small <strong>an</strong>d consists largely <strong>of</strong> diplomatic <strong>of</strong>ficials <strong>an</strong>d staff at <strong>the</strong> local Chabad<br />
House. Nepal is however <strong>the</strong> most popular place for Israeli backpackers. 469<br />
As with a very large number <strong>of</strong> locations all over <strong>the</strong> world, <strong>the</strong>re is a Chabad House <strong>in</strong><br />
Kathm<strong>an</strong>du. It is situated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Thamel district <strong>of</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du <strong>an</strong>d its address is Gha-2-<br />
516-4Thamel. 470 (The term “Gha” me<strong>an</strong>s a side-street. 471 ) One c<strong>an</strong> immediately see<br />
that no street name is given for <strong>the</strong> Chabad House. This is because <strong>the</strong> m<strong>in</strong>or streets <strong>in</strong><br />
this city do not have names – just numbers <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> area where <strong>the</strong>y are situated.<br />
The Directors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du Chabad House are Rabbi Chezky Lifshitz <strong>an</strong>d his wife<br />
Ch<strong>an</strong>i, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y have been <strong>the</strong>re s<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong> year 2000. 472 H<strong>an</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g across <strong>the</strong> street is a<br />
board which has on its top l<strong>in</strong>e “Bet Chabad Kathm<strong>an</strong>du” <strong>in</strong> Hebrew, <strong>an</strong>d on <strong>the</strong> next<br />
l<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong> English “Chabad House”. The bottom l<strong>in</strong>e is not clear <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> photograph but it<br />
could be “Chabad House” written <strong>in</strong> Nepalese script. 473 Chabad House <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du<br />
has m<strong>an</strong>y activities <strong>an</strong>d accord<strong>in</strong>g to its published list <strong>the</strong>se <strong>in</strong>clude Shabbat<br />
464<br />
Wikipedia: Thamel, op. cit.<br />
465<br />
Wikipedia: Kathm<strong>an</strong>du, op. cit.<br />
466<br />
Trips abroad, op. cit.<br />
467<br />
An<strong>an</strong>dar Kumar Maharj<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d Ammar Raj Guni, Attractions <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du <strong>an</strong>d its Successful<br />
M<strong>an</strong>agement – A Guide Book, (Kathm<strong>an</strong>du, 2005), p.5.<br />
468<br />
Wikipedia: Kathm<strong>an</strong>du, op. cit., Religion.<br />
469<br />
Wikipedia: History <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Jews <strong>in</strong> Nepal – accessed 8 July 2010.<br />
470<br />
Chabad House <strong>of</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du (www.chabad.org/centers/default_cdo/aid/118561/jewish/Chabad-<br />
House-<strong>of</strong>-Kathm<strong>an</strong>du.htm - accessed 7 July 2010).<br />
471<br />
Acknowledements to Wikipedia Reference desk – L<strong>an</strong>guage for <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>formation.<br />
472<br />
Chabad House <strong>of</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du, op. cit.; “Israeli backpackers undaunted by Mumbai, Pune”, The Times<br />
<strong>of</strong> India, 29 March 2010.<br />
473 Koshertreks: Everest P<strong>an</strong>orama Photo Album, Chabad House Kathm<strong>an</strong>du<br />
(www.koshertreks.com/everest_photo.php - accessed 18 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).
89<br />
Hospitality, Synagogue, Library, Adult Education, <strong>an</strong>d Hospital <strong>an</strong>d Prison<br />
Visitation. 474<br />
A traveller who was <strong>the</strong>re <strong>in</strong> December 2004 described this Chabad House. “At first<br />
you notice <strong>the</strong> small sign po<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> stairs, <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> pa<strong>in</strong>ted wall on <strong>the</strong> way to <strong>the</strong><br />
second floor „Glatm<strong>an</strong>du Restaur<strong>an</strong>t‟ „Bet Chabad‟ etc. <strong>the</strong> door has a big „Welcome‟<br />
pa<strong>in</strong>ted on <strong>an</strong>d sw<strong>in</strong>gs both ways. After walk<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>, you notice <strong>the</strong> myriad <strong>of</strong> different<br />
th<strong>in</strong>gs go<strong>in</strong>g on ... <strong>from</strong> people eat<strong>in</strong>g kosher Schnitzel <strong>an</strong>d Humus, play<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong><br />
guitar that is always somewhere here, read<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> different notes on <strong>the</strong> board, travel<br />
books <strong>an</strong>d reports or just books. Walk<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> deeper you notice <strong>the</strong> small synagogue area<br />
<strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Internet right next to it, people upload<strong>in</strong>g photos <strong>an</strong>d chatt<strong>in</strong>g with family.” 475<br />
The Chabad House Kathm<strong>an</strong>du website states that it is located opposite a certa<strong>in</strong> named<br />
hotel. This hotel is a build<strong>in</strong>g 5 stories high <strong>an</strong>d it was opened <strong>in</strong> 1990. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to its<br />
prospectus, <strong>in</strong> addition to <strong>the</strong> st<strong>an</strong>dard rooms, <strong>the</strong> hotel has 50 de luxe rooms, 5 m<strong>in</strong>isuites<br />
<strong>an</strong>d also <strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>nex which has 40 st<strong>an</strong>dard rooms; it has a restaur<strong>an</strong>t <strong>an</strong>d cafe<br />
which serve a variety <strong>of</strong> cuis<strong>in</strong>es which <strong>in</strong>clude Ch<strong>in</strong>ese, Cont<strong>in</strong>ental, Indi<strong>an</strong> or<br />
Nepalese; <strong>the</strong>re is also a conference room which c<strong>an</strong> accommodate 120 people for a<br />
conference <strong>an</strong>d 300 for a cocktail d<strong>in</strong>ner. 476 The reviews <strong>of</strong> those who had stayed at this<br />
hotel <strong>in</strong> 2011 were mixed. Some summaries by “TripAdvisor” <strong>in</strong>clude “Cle<strong>an</strong>,<br />
comfortable <strong>an</strong>d great location”, “Horrible Hotel with even worse service”, “Simple but<br />
good”, <strong>an</strong>d “Worst Place”. 477<br />
The book does not state <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel that Ari stayed <strong>in</strong> except that it was<br />
opposite Chabad House, <strong>an</strong>d it is thus possible that it was this hotel. Alternatively, <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are m<strong>an</strong>y o<strong>the</strong>r hotels <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> Chabad House 478 <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> reason that <strong>the</strong>y state <strong>the</strong>y<br />
are opposite this particular hotel is that it is prom<strong>in</strong>ent as a l<strong>an</strong>dmark, even though <strong>the</strong>re<br />
is <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r hotel <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> immediate area which is larger or at least <strong>of</strong> similar size. 479<br />
M<strong>an</strong>y <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> stores <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> area <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> area had Hebrew signs, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> streets were filled<br />
with Israelis. (p.371)<br />
The book “Israeli Backpackers” writes on this, “ ... backpacker ghettos <strong>in</strong> ...<br />
Kathm<strong>an</strong>du .... conta<strong>in</strong> visible „sections‟ that Israelis frequent. Such sections <strong>in</strong>clude<br />
special guest houses, restaur<strong>an</strong>ts, bookstores, <strong>an</strong>d travel agencies cater<strong>in</strong>g to Israelis,<br />
with Hebrew signs, Hebrew menus, Hebrew fonts <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternet cafes.... S<strong>in</strong>ce no one<br />
474 Chabad House <strong>of</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du, op. cit.<br />
475 Bet Chabad, Kathm<strong>an</strong>du, (blog.travelpod.com/travel-blogentries/tomer/asia2/1101497940/tpod.html<br />
- accessed 18 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
476 Hotel *** (www.hotel***.com – accessed 5 September 2011).<br />
477 TripAdvisor, Hotel ***: Traveller Reviews (www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g293890-<br />
d310331-r116627246-Hotel_***-Kathm<strong>an</strong>du.html - 19 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
478 Mapm<strong>an</strong>du (www.mapm<strong>an</strong>du.com/neighborhood_list<strong>in</strong>g/18%2C6 – 19 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
479 *** Guest House (www.ktmgh.com/kgh/default.php - accessed 7 September 2011).
90<br />
but Israelis c<strong>an</strong> read <strong>the</strong>m, Hebrew signs <strong>an</strong>d notes on bullet<strong>in</strong> boards around ...<br />
Kathm<strong>an</strong>du give o<strong>the</strong>r Israelis encoded <strong>in</strong>formation about recommended restaur<strong>an</strong>ts,<br />
hotels <strong>an</strong>d services.” 480<br />
Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, trekkers <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du have reported on <strong>the</strong> Hebrew signs. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m<br />
wrote “Trekk<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Nepal is fashionable among young Israelis. So much so that m<strong>an</strong>y<br />
shops <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du <strong>an</strong>d Pokhara have signs <strong>in</strong> Hebrew”. 481 Ano<strong>the</strong>r one wrote, “Quite<br />
a few Israelis <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du, lots <strong>of</strong> signs <strong>in</strong> Ivrit [Hebrew]”. 482 Yet <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r wrote<br />
“Lakeside <strong>in</strong> Pokhara <strong>an</strong>d Thamel <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du are constructs for tourists <strong>an</strong>d hardly<br />
count as Nepali at all. Signs are usually only <strong>in</strong> English, occasionally <strong>in</strong> Hebrew too.<br />
The Nepali script is nowhere to be seen.” 483<br />
As will been seen later, around <strong>the</strong> period <strong>of</strong> Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah (<strong>the</strong> period when Ronen<br />
was <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du) <strong>an</strong>d even more so for Pesach, <strong>the</strong>re are hundreds or even thous<strong>an</strong>ds<br />
<strong>of</strong> Israelis <strong>in</strong> this area <strong>of</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du.<br />
Even though countries like foreign tourists s<strong>in</strong>ce it br<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>the</strong>m <strong>in</strong> money, it would<br />
seem <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> very critical words <strong>of</strong> one trekker that this was not <strong>the</strong> case with <strong>the</strong><br />
Israeli backpackers <strong>in</strong> Nepal. He described <strong>the</strong>m as “rude, arrog<strong>an</strong>t, <strong>an</strong>d argue over<br />
trifl<strong>in</strong>g amounts <strong>of</strong> money.” He even went as far as writ<strong>in</strong>g that “m<strong>an</strong>y guesthouses <strong>in</strong><br />
this poor country [Nepal] will even tell Israeli trekk<strong>in</strong>g groups that <strong>the</strong>y are full ra<strong>the</strong>r<br />
th<strong>an</strong> accept <strong>the</strong>m.” 484<br />
[Because Ronen was afraid that <strong>an</strong> Israeli <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> Thamel might recognise him <strong>an</strong>d<br />
immediately it would become public knowledge] I asked Ari to switch to a hotel <strong>in</strong> a less<br />
Israeli area [which Ari <strong>the</strong>n did]. (p.371)<br />
The book does not state <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel <strong>the</strong>y moved to, or even <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong><br />
Kathm<strong>an</strong>du where it was located. There are about 112 hotels <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du with <strong>the</strong><br />
largest concentration <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m be<strong>in</strong>g located <strong>in</strong> Thamel (about 36 hotels) or <strong>the</strong><br />
adjo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g areas <strong>of</strong> Paknajol (about 11 hotels). 485 The new hotel was obviously not a<br />
hotel <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se areas, nor probably <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> adjo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g areas, such as Jyatha or<br />
Chhetrapati. 486 Because rid<strong>in</strong>g is forbidden on Shabbat <strong>an</strong>d Festivals, Ronen <strong>an</strong>d Ari<br />
had to walk to <strong>the</strong> prayer services on Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah. Therefore, presumably <strong>the</strong> hotel<br />
<strong>the</strong>y stayed at was not too far away <strong>from</strong> Thamel (or <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> place where <strong>the</strong> prayer<br />
480<br />
Israeli Backpackers <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>ir Society, op. cit., p.64.<br />
481<br />
Voices <strong>from</strong> Russia (02varvara.wordpress.com/2009/02/09/ - accessed 19 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
482<br />
Clepsydra – T<strong>in</strong>g-t<strong>in</strong>g... (chat.<strong>the</strong>valkyrie.com/clubhouse/oldchat/log-107-10-31.htm - accessed 19<br />
J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
483<br />
Our Really Big Adventure (www.ourreallybigadventure.com/<strong>in</strong>dia_nepal/nepal/r<strong>an</strong>dr.html -<br />
accessed 19 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
484<br />
Voices <strong>from</strong> Russia, op. cit.<br />
485<br />
Mapm<strong>an</strong>du (www.mapm<strong>an</strong>du.com/hotels - assessed 13 July 2010).<br />
486<br />
Ibid.; Map <strong>of</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du (www.lonelypl<strong>an</strong>et.com/maps/asia/nepal.kathm<strong>an</strong>du - accessed 13 July<br />
2010).
91<br />
services were held). This still leaves a lot <strong>of</strong> possible hotels, but no fur<strong>the</strong>r conclusion<br />
c<strong>an</strong> be arrived at as to <strong>the</strong> actual hotel.<br />
[Unknown to Ronen, his fa<strong>the</strong>r had died 7 months earlier <strong>an</strong>d on erev Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah] Ari<br />
came over to me <strong>an</strong>d tore my shirt [tell<strong>in</strong>g Ronen that his fa<strong>the</strong>r had died add<strong>in</strong>g] We asked<br />
Rabbi Ovadia Yosef <strong>an</strong>d he told us not to tell you s<strong>in</strong>ce you were <strong>in</strong> so much pa<strong>in</strong> already<br />
<strong>an</strong>d he was afraid it would break you completely. (p.372)<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> laws <strong>of</strong> mourn<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong> a close relative is <strong>the</strong> ceremonial tear<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong><br />
one‟s garments. For a parent this tear<strong>in</strong>g is done on all <strong>the</strong> garments on <strong>the</strong> left side “to<br />
expose <strong>the</strong> heart” <strong>an</strong>d for a different close relative it is done on just one garment on <strong>the</strong><br />
right side. 487 If one hears <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong> a close relative with<strong>in</strong> 30 days <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> burial,<br />
one has <strong>the</strong> full mourn<strong>in</strong>g rites, namely firstly <strong>the</strong> shiva period for a week, <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong><br />
shloshim period for a fur<strong>the</strong>r 23 days. 488 For a parent <strong>the</strong>re is a total period <strong>of</strong><br />
mourn<strong>in</strong>g for 12 months. If however, one hears <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> death only after 30 days <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
date <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> burial, one only has a period <strong>of</strong> “one hour” <strong>of</strong> mourn<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d for a parent <strong>the</strong><br />
rema<strong>in</strong>der, if <strong>an</strong>y, <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 12 months. 489 S<strong>in</strong>ce it was <strong>the</strong>n over 30 days but with<strong>in</strong> 12<br />
months <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> date that Ronen‟s fa<strong>the</strong>r had died, he just had to tear his garments,<br />
observe “one hour” <strong>of</strong> more <strong>in</strong>tense mourn<strong>in</strong>g, toge<strong>the</strong>r with just 5 months observ<strong>an</strong>ce<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mourn<strong>in</strong>g regulations which apply dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> 12 month mourn<strong>in</strong>g period for<br />
parents.<br />
If by <strong>in</strong>form<strong>in</strong>g a person <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong> a relative it could affect his health <strong>in</strong> some<br />
way, <strong>the</strong>n one may not <strong>in</strong>form him. 490 For this reason Ronen was not <strong>in</strong>formed at <strong>the</strong><br />
time <strong>of</strong> his fa<strong>the</strong>r‟s death.<br />
The Chabad messengers rented a large hall for <strong>the</strong> Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah meals. There were<br />
approximately one thous<strong>an</strong>d five hundred Israelis <strong>of</strong> all colors <strong>an</strong>d types. The prayers<br />
were amaz<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>the</strong> meals excellent <strong>an</strong>d <strong>an</strong> ambience <strong>of</strong> joy pervaded <strong>the</strong> room. (p.373)<br />
The location <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> large hall is not stated, but on <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g Pesach, (<strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
occasion <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> year when <strong>the</strong>re is a large visitation <strong>of</strong> Israelis <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du), Chabad<br />
rented a hall <strong>in</strong> a hotel which was <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lazimput district <strong>of</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du, 491 about 1.4<br />
kilometres (by road) <strong>from</strong> Chabad House. 492<br />
It is possible that <strong>the</strong>y rented <strong>the</strong> same large hall for that Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah. This Festival<br />
which is <strong>of</strong> duration two days is <strong>the</strong> Jewish New Year <strong>an</strong>d occurs <strong>in</strong> September or<br />
487 Rabbi Yechiel Tukach<strong>in</strong>ski, Gesher Hachaim, (Jerusalem, 1960) vol.1, chap.4, par. 11. 14. 15; Rabbi<br />
Chaim Goldberg, Penei Baruch, (Jerusalem, 1986), chap 1, par.12, 15.<br />
488<br />
ibid., vol.1, chap, 24, shemua kerovah par. 1; ibid., chap.26, par.1.<br />
489<br />
ibid., vol.1, chap, 24, shemua rechokah par. 1, 2, 4; ibid., chap.26, par.19, 24<br />
490<br />
ibid., vol.1, chap. 19, section 4, par.11; ibid., chap.26, par.30.<br />
491<br />
“Passover <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> H<strong>in</strong>du k<strong>in</strong>gdom”, Nepali Times, no.293, 7-13 April 2005, p.4.<br />
492 Google Maps – get directions.
92<br />
October – <strong>in</strong> 2005 it occurred on Tuesday–Wednesday, 4–5 October. 493 The Synagogue<br />
services are considerably longer th<strong>an</strong> those <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r Festivals 494 <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> sh<strong>of</strong>ar is<br />
blown, customarily 100 blasts, dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> service. 495 There are special foods at <strong>the</strong> meal<br />
which <strong>in</strong>clude apple which is dipped <strong>in</strong> honey, pomegr<strong>an</strong>ate <strong>an</strong>d various o<strong>the</strong>r fruits<br />
<strong>an</strong>d vegetables. Over each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se foods, one says a special prayer <strong>of</strong> hope for <strong>the</strong> New<br />
Year. 496<br />
Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah <strong>in</strong> Chabad House <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du “has been dubbed as <strong>the</strong> biggest Rosh<br />
Hash<strong>an</strong>a meal <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world.” One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Israeli hikers who was <strong>the</strong>re for Rosh<br />
Hash<strong>an</strong>ah <strong>in</strong> 2008 reported on how <strong>the</strong> various hikers co-operated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> preparations.<br />
He wrote “<strong>the</strong> atmosphere is amaz<strong>in</strong>g, everyone jo<strong>in</strong>ed toge<strong>the</strong>r to help <strong>the</strong> Chabad<br />
House. Not one hiker has rema<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>in</strong>different, everyone has rolled up <strong>the</strong>ir sleeves <strong>an</strong>d<br />
are help<strong>in</strong>g out.” 497<br />
A number <strong>of</strong> people who have spent a Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah at <strong>the</strong> Chabad House <strong>in</strong><br />
Kathm<strong>an</strong>du have recorded <strong>the</strong>ir comments <strong>an</strong>d rem<strong>in</strong>iscences. Here are some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m:<br />
“I participated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>a meals at <strong>the</strong> Chabad House <strong>in</strong> Nepal three years<br />
ago [2002 or 2003] <strong>an</strong>d I was one <strong>of</strong> 1500 Israelis who experience this special feel<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
Rabbi Chezki who is a hiker himself (he knows all <strong>the</strong> places <strong>in</strong> Nepal) is marvelous,<br />
he knows everyth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d is always <strong>the</strong>re for you for whatever you need ...” (signed by a<br />
girl call<strong>in</strong>g herself “Complete secular girl”). 498<br />
“Every Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>a you get hundreds <strong>of</strong> secular, young Israelis flock<strong>in</strong>g to<br />
Kathm<strong>an</strong>du's Chabad House to d<strong>in</strong>e toge<strong>the</strong>r. It‟s not a matter <strong>of</strong> religious or secular.<br />
It‟s l<strong>in</strong>ked to w<strong>an</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g to feel connected to someth<strong>in</strong>g for a few hours.” (Boaz<br />
Albar<strong>an</strong>es, a student at <strong>the</strong> Haifa Technion) 499<br />
“ ...I came <strong>in</strong> <strong>from</strong> celebrat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> Jewish New Year ... with <strong>the</strong> Israelis <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du,<br />
a cont<strong>in</strong>gent <strong>of</strong> 300+ young people, mostly travel<strong>in</strong>g through Nepal, at one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city‟s<br />
ubiquitous „party palaces‟ [a place hired by Chabad <strong>of</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du for Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah]<br />
.... I doubt, however, that m<strong>an</strong>y bar mitzvahs, Pesach seders or Rosh Hashonah<br />
celebrations have rattled <strong>the</strong>se walls, much less seen bearded, impish Reb Kresky once<br />
493<br />
Hbcal Jewish Calendar, Date Converter<br />
(www.hebcal.com/converter/?hd=1&hm=Tishrei&hy=5766&h2g=Convert+Hebrew+to+Gregori<strong>an</strong>+date<br />
– accessed 20 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
494<br />
Machzor for Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah.<br />
495<br />
Tosafot on Babyloni<strong>an</strong> Talmud, Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah 33b, “shiur”; Mishnah Berurah 596:1.<br />
496<br />
Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch <strong>an</strong>d Rema, Orach Chaim 583:1.<br />
497<br />
Preparations <strong>in</strong> Nepal for Biggest Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah Meal<br />
(shturem.org/<strong>in</strong>dex.php?section=news&id=29988 – accessed 26 October 2011).<br />
498<br />
The Chabad House is a “life-saver” (www.shturem.org/<strong>in</strong>dex.php?section=news&id=2872 –<br />
accessed 15 July 2010).<br />
499<br />
Kosher CouchSurf<strong>in</strong>g: Israeli students launch Jewish hospitality scheme, Haaretz (onl<strong>in</strong>e edition) 26<br />
June 2009.
93<br />
aga<strong>in</strong> up on his make-shift chair s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g to his heart‟s delight, black suit & black hat<br />
sway<strong>in</strong>g to his own tune, to usher <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> joyful fragr<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>of</strong> a new year.... we sat at <strong>the</strong><br />
long table covered with plates <strong>of</strong> humus, challah bread, honey, pomegr<strong>an</strong>ate <strong>an</strong>d salads<br />
with vivacious young Jews <strong>of</strong> all varieties.” (Posted by Keith D. Leslie) 500<br />
“Even though I spent too much time <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du <strong>an</strong>d it started to bore me, I had to<br />
wait a little longer to <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> event. The Jewish new year [Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah] is<br />
celebrated each year <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du <strong>in</strong> a huge forum <strong>of</strong> more th<strong>an</strong> 600 people, be<strong>in</strong>g led<br />
by Chabad House. It is always <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> peak season <strong>of</strong> tourism <strong>in</strong> Nepal, <strong>an</strong>d for that<br />
reason <strong>the</strong> celebration is very popular. In reality – <strong>the</strong> event was quite disappo<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g,<br />
though a happy one. The Rabbi decided that he doesn‟t w<strong>an</strong>t <strong>the</strong> people celebrat<strong>in</strong>g<br />
new-year to envy <strong>the</strong> people celebrat<strong>in</strong>g Passover (which also falls <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> peak tourist<br />
season <strong>of</strong> April), so he asked everybody to s<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> popular Passover song “ECHAD<br />
MI YODEA”, after expla<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g that nowhere it is stated that <strong>the</strong> song is only for<br />
Passover! I found myself s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g “ECHAD MI YODEA”, a Passover song dur<strong>in</strong>g<br />
ROSH HASHANA (new year‟s day) <strong>an</strong>d look<strong>in</strong>g for <strong>the</strong> c<strong>an</strong>did camera...” (R. Eldar) 501<br />
This last rem<strong>in</strong>isce was <strong>from</strong> Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah 2005, <strong>the</strong> Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah that Ronen was<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Chabad House <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du.<br />
One might mention that although <strong>the</strong>re is a large attend<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>of</strong> Israelis at <strong>the</strong><br />
Kathm<strong>an</strong>du Chabad activities on Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah, <strong>the</strong> numbers are even larger for <strong>the</strong><br />
Pesach Seder. The first Seder for Israelis <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du was org<strong>an</strong>ised by <strong>the</strong> Israeli<br />
Embassy <strong>in</strong> 1989 <strong>an</strong>d took place <strong>in</strong> a local bakery. Some years later, <strong>the</strong> Seders were<br />
org<strong>an</strong>ised by Chabad <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> numbers radically <strong>in</strong>creased that by 2005 <strong>the</strong>re were 2000<br />
particip<strong>an</strong>ts. 502<br />
[A new Israeli passport with Ronen‟s name had been ordered <strong>an</strong>d had arrived <strong>from</strong> Israel,<br />
but it had no entr<strong>an</strong>ce stamp to Nepal nor a Nepali visa stamped <strong>in</strong> it. Great efforts were<br />
made to get <strong>the</strong>se necessary stamps] <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> end we found someone who could obta<strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> stamp we needed. He operates with a border policem<strong>an</strong>, who <strong>in</strong> exch<strong>an</strong>ge for money<br />
stamps passports with real visas. (p.373)<br />
Nepal is very strict on hav<strong>in</strong>g entr<strong>an</strong>ce stamps <strong>an</strong>d visas to enter <strong>the</strong> country <strong>an</strong>d a<br />
failure to do so c<strong>an</strong> lead to severe penalties.<br />
In <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>formation leaflet brought out by <strong>the</strong> United States Embassy <strong>in</strong> Nepal it states<br />
under <strong>the</strong> head<strong>in</strong>g “Arrest <strong>an</strong>d detention Procedures”; “IMMIGRATION<br />
VIOLATIONS: Violation <strong>of</strong> immigration regulations c<strong>an</strong> result <strong>in</strong> lengthy prison<br />
sentences <strong>an</strong>d/or deportation. In <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> visa overstays, if <strong>the</strong> violator is unable to<br />
500 Bambuddhism <strong>in</strong> Nepal (lesliech<strong>an</strong>d.blogspot.com/ - accessed 8 July 2010).<br />
501 TravelBlog , Kathm<strong>an</strong>du Nepal (www.travelblog.org/Asia/Nepal/blog-41448.html - accessed 7 July<br />
2010).<br />
502 Passover <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> H<strong>in</strong>du k<strong>in</strong>gdom, op. cit.
94<br />
pay owed visa fees <strong>an</strong>d f<strong>in</strong>es, <strong>the</strong> person will be imprisoned until <strong>the</strong> fees are paid or<br />
„served <strong>of</strong>f‟ at <strong>the</strong> rate <strong>of</strong> 25 rupees served <strong>of</strong>f per day.” 503<br />
A 36 year old journalist Jonath<strong>an</strong> Mitchell, who had been born <strong>in</strong> Newcastle <strong>in</strong><br />
Engl<strong>an</strong>d, described what happened to him <strong>in</strong> connection with visas <strong>in</strong> Nepal. He wrote,<br />
“The Nepalese government „lost‟ my passport <strong>an</strong>d destroyed <strong>an</strong>y files relat<strong>in</strong>g to my<br />
press visa, deny<strong>in</strong>g it ever existed ... I was locked up for three weeks <strong>in</strong> Immigration<br />
Detention <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>y dem<strong>an</strong>ded <strong>an</strong>d were paid US$ 10,000 <strong>in</strong> „visa f<strong>in</strong>es‟! If I had not<br />
raised <strong>the</strong> money ... <strong>the</strong>n I was fac<strong>in</strong>g be<strong>in</strong>g charged <strong>an</strong>d tried under Nepali law <strong>an</strong>d<br />
would have had to await <strong>the</strong> trial <strong>an</strong>d outcome <strong>from</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du Central Jail.” 504<br />
Accord<strong>in</strong>g to a report <strong>in</strong> “The Sent<strong>in</strong>el”, a Staffordshire newspaper, Mitchell claims<br />
that all he did was to overstay his tourist visa “a month or so” <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Nepalese<br />
authorities had told him that if he did not pay this f<strong>in</strong>e he could “face 10 years beh<strong>in</strong>d<br />
bars”. It was <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternet campaign, highlight<strong>in</strong>g his plight which enabled him to raise<br />
most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> money to pay <strong>the</strong> f<strong>in</strong>e. 505<br />
Even <strong>the</strong> absence <strong>of</strong> just <strong>an</strong> entr<strong>an</strong>ce stamp <strong>in</strong> one‟s passport c<strong>an</strong> make problems for <strong>the</strong><br />
visitor. A visitor wrote, “I c<strong>an</strong>‟t believe <strong>the</strong>y‟re mak<strong>in</strong>g us pay a f<strong>in</strong>e. We have our visa<br />
<strong>an</strong>d receipts to prove our tr<strong>an</strong>sportation <strong>an</strong>d hotel stay <strong>in</strong> Nepal. Why didn‟t <strong>the</strong> guy<br />
stamp our passports at <strong>the</strong> border?” 506<br />
In addition to a visa, if people w<strong>an</strong>t to go on “most <strong>of</strong> Nepal‟s popular trekk<strong>in</strong>g areas<br />
[<strong>the</strong>y] require separate permits which c<strong>an</strong> be bought <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du or through trekk<strong>in</strong>g<br />
comp<strong>an</strong>ies. If you get caught <strong>in</strong> a park without a permit, you will be heavily f<strong>in</strong>ed.” 507<br />
It c<strong>an</strong> <strong>the</strong>refore be seen why every effort was made to secure <strong>the</strong> necessary stamps <strong>in</strong><br />
Ronen‟s Israeli passport. Any punishment could have easily disclosed that he had<br />
<strong>escape</strong>d <strong>from</strong> prison <strong>in</strong> India <strong>an</strong>d could have had led to very unpleas<strong>an</strong>t consequences.<br />
We spent Shabbat <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Chabad House. (p.374)<br />
That year Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah had been on Tuesday <strong>an</strong>d Wednesday. The follow<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Shabbat, namely, <strong>the</strong> Shabbat between Rosh Hash<strong>an</strong>ah <strong>an</strong>d Yom Kippur, is known as<br />
Shabbat Shuva <strong>the</strong> Sabbath <strong>of</strong> Repent<strong>an</strong>ce. The haftarah (read<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> Prophets) on<br />
503<br />
Embassy <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> United States, Arrest <strong>an</strong>d Detention Procedures<br />
(nepal.usembassy.gov/legal_<strong>in</strong>formation.html – accessed 15 July 2010).<br />
504<br />
Committee to Protect Journalists, Nepal’s media brave threats <strong>in</strong> '<strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g times', Comments<br />
(cpj.org/blog/2010/02/nepals-media-brave-threats-<strong>in</strong>-<strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g-times.php – accessed 15 July 2010).<br />
505<br />
Cash raised to release journalist locked up <strong>in</strong> Nepal jail<br />
(www.ek<strong>an</strong>tipur.com/2010/04/12/headl<strong>in</strong>es/Cash-raised-to-release-journalist-locked-up-<strong>in</strong>-Nepaljail/312243/<br />
- accessed 16 July 2010).<br />
506<br />
Nepal – Entry <strong>an</strong>d Exit po<strong>in</strong>ts (www.visitnepal.com/travelers_guide/entry_po<strong>in</strong>ts.php -accessed 15<br />
July 2010).<br />
507<br />
Where to stay <strong>in</strong> Nepal: Visa <strong>an</strong>d Passports (www.hoteltravel.com/nepal/guides/travel_tips.htm -<br />
accessed 15 July 2010).
95<br />
that Shabbat beg<strong>in</strong>s with <strong>the</strong> words “Shuva Yisrael” – Return O Israel to <strong>the</strong><br />
Almighty. 508<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> m<strong>an</strong>y activities <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Chabad House <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir list <strong>of</strong> advertised<br />
activities is “Shabbat Hospitality”. 509 It is on Shabbat that <strong>the</strong> kosher restaur<strong>an</strong>t on <strong>the</strong><br />
premises doubles up as a large d<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g hall where open Shabbat meals for tourist are<br />
held. 510<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> visitors to this Chabad House <strong>in</strong> November 2004 wrote on this that,<br />
“Shabbat <strong>an</strong>d Holidays are <strong>of</strong> course <strong>the</strong> highlights <strong>of</strong> Bet Chabad activity with<br />
Kiddush <strong>an</strong>d C<strong>an</strong>dle Light<strong>in</strong>g, meals, conversations <strong>an</strong>d expl<strong>an</strong>ations about religion<br />
<strong>an</strong>d o<strong>the</strong>r th<strong>in</strong>gs. After <strong>the</strong> first meal Friday night <strong>the</strong>re is „story time‟ where around <strong>the</strong><br />
table people tell stories or remarks, sometimes about Bet Chabad, sometimes about<br />
religion <strong>an</strong>d sometimes just funny <strong>an</strong>ecdotes. It's a special feel<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> air, <strong>an</strong>d almost<br />
every time someone says someth<strong>in</strong>g mov<strong>in</strong>g or just amaz<strong>in</strong>g.” 511<br />
A visitor <strong>in</strong> June 2008 wrote “Shabbat <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du was really nice. We went to<br />
Chabad for both meals (str<strong>an</strong>ge that our first food here tasted like it was straight <strong>from</strong><br />
Brooklyn) - was very pleas<strong>an</strong>t.” 512<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r group who had been trekk<strong>in</strong>g around Mount Everest, f<strong>in</strong>ished <strong>the</strong>ir two week<br />
sojourn <strong>in</strong> Nepal with a Shabbat <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Chabad House <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du <strong>an</strong>d wrote, “Our<br />
trek ends with Shabbat <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g daven<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d meals at Chabad House<br />
- Beit Knesset (synagogue), Kosher restaur<strong>an</strong>t, meet<strong>in</strong>g place <strong>an</strong>d home away <strong>from</strong><br />
home for m<strong>an</strong>y Jewish travellers.” 513 Both on <strong>the</strong> Friday night <strong>an</strong>d Shabbat day this<br />
group ate <strong>the</strong>ir meals at <strong>the</strong> Chabad House. 514<br />
We left Kathm<strong>an</strong>du at seven o‟clock <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> [Sunday] morn<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d were scheduled to l<strong>an</strong>d<br />
<strong>in</strong> Israel on Monday at four o‟clock <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g, after a stopover <strong>in</strong> Thail<strong>an</strong>d. It would<br />
be one day before Yom Kippur. (p.374)<br />
Actually Yom Kippur that year was on Thursday <strong>an</strong>d so it is <strong>in</strong>accurate to write that<br />
<strong>the</strong>y were scheduled to arrive <strong>in</strong> Israel “one day before Yom Kippur ”.<br />
The airport at which Ronen <strong>an</strong>d Ari, beg<strong>an</strong> this last stage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir journey was almost<br />
certa<strong>in</strong>ly Tribhuv<strong>an</strong> International Airport, which is <strong>the</strong> sole <strong>in</strong>ternational airport <strong>in</strong><br />
Kathm<strong>an</strong>du. It was orig<strong>in</strong>ally known as Gaucher Airport, named after <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong><br />
508<br />
Hosea 14:2.<br />
509<br />
Chabad House <strong>of</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du, op. cit.<br />
510<br />
F<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g Judaism <strong>in</strong> Nepal, Celebrat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Israel (lubavitch.com/news/article/2014613/F<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g-<br />
Judaism-<strong>in</strong>-Nepal-Celebrat<strong>in</strong>g-<strong>in</strong>-Israel.html - accessed 22 July 2010).<br />
511<br />
Bet Chabad Kathm<strong>an</strong>du, op. cit.<br />
512<br />
Slow <strong>an</strong>d Steady..., Shabbat <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du (mostlyslow.blogspot.com/2008/06/shabbat-<strong>in</strong>-<br />
kathm<strong>an</strong>du.html - accessed 22 July 2010).<br />
513 Koshertreks: Everest P<strong>an</strong>orama Photo Album, Chabad House Kathm<strong>an</strong>du, op. cit.<br />
514 Koshertreks: Everest P<strong>an</strong>orama Photo Album, op. cit., It<strong>in</strong>ery for Everest P<strong>an</strong>orama.
96<br />
Kathm<strong>an</strong>du where it is situated. It was renamed Tribhuv<strong>an</strong> Airport <strong>in</strong> 1955, after <strong>the</strong><br />
fa<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>n K<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> Nepal. The airport is situated about six kilometres <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
city center <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du valley. It has two term<strong>in</strong>als, one for domestic flights <strong>an</strong>d<br />
one for <strong>in</strong>ternational flights <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong>re is <strong>an</strong> executive lounge for First Class passengers<br />
<strong>an</strong>d Bus<strong>in</strong>ess Class passengers. Today about 30 <strong>in</strong>ternational airl<strong>in</strong>es use this airport. 515<br />
There are no El Al flights <strong>from</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du. One needs to go to B<strong>an</strong>gkok to get a flight<br />
to Israel. The name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> airl<strong>in</strong>e on which Ronen travelled is not mentioned <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
book but <strong>the</strong>re are only two airl<strong>in</strong>es which have as one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir routes Kathm<strong>an</strong>du to<br />
B<strong>an</strong>gkok (although <strong>the</strong>re might have been o<strong>the</strong>rs <strong>in</strong> 2005). 516<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se airl<strong>in</strong>es is Nepal Airl<strong>in</strong>es <strong>an</strong>d it was established <strong>in</strong> 1958 as a government<br />
owned national flag-carrier airl<strong>in</strong>e. It orig<strong>in</strong>ally had <strong>the</strong> word “Royal” <strong>in</strong> its name – this<br />
was <strong>the</strong> period <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> monarchy <strong>in</strong> Nepal <strong>an</strong>d hence <strong>the</strong> word “Royal”. Over <strong>the</strong> years it<br />
acquired a number <strong>of</strong> airpl<strong>an</strong>es <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g several Boe<strong>in</strong>gs. It orig<strong>in</strong>ally had a number <strong>of</strong><br />
domestic routes <strong>an</strong>d also <strong>in</strong>ternational routes which <strong>in</strong>cluded Europe <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Far East.<br />
However, <strong>in</strong> later years, <strong>the</strong> airl<strong>in</strong>e term<strong>in</strong>ated its services to Europe <strong>an</strong>d to some <strong>of</strong><br />
those to <strong>the</strong> Far East. 517<br />
The o<strong>the</strong>r airl<strong>in</strong>e is Thai Airways International. It is <strong>the</strong> national flag carrier <strong>an</strong>d largest<br />
airl<strong>in</strong>e <strong>of</strong> Thail<strong>an</strong>d <strong>an</strong>d was formed <strong>in</strong> 1988, although its orig<strong>in</strong>s date back to 1960. It is<br />
<strong>the</strong> largest airl<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong> Thail<strong>an</strong>d. It was <strong>the</strong> first Asia-Pacific airl<strong>in</strong>e to serve London<br />
Heathrow Airport <strong>an</strong>d among East Asi<strong>an</strong> airl<strong>in</strong>es it has one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> largest passenger<br />
operations <strong>in</strong> Europe. As at 2011, it flies to 72 dest<strong>in</strong>ations <strong>in</strong> 35 countries us<strong>in</strong>g a fleet<br />
<strong>of</strong> 89 aircraft, <strong>an</strong>d has dest<strong>in</strong>ations which <strong>in</strong>clude Europe, Asia, Africa, North America<br />
<strong>an</strong>d Oce<strong>an</strong>ia. Like Nepal Airl<strong>in</strong>es, it has also curtailed a number <strong>of</strong> its <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />
flights. 518<br />
[When Ronen h<strong>an</strong>ded his passport to <strong>the</strong> clerk at <strong>the</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du airport, <strong>the</strong> clerk] looked<br />
at it <strong>an</strong>d beg<strong>an</strong> to act <strong>in</strong> a very str<strong>an</strong>ge way. ... beads <strong>of</strong> sweat dripped down his forehead<br />
... fiddled with papers on his desk ... licked his lips a few times. ... [F<strong>in</strong>ally he] stamped<br />
„exit‟ on my passport. (p.374)<br />
When enter<strong>in</strong>g or exit<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>y country, one has to go through passport control. There, a<br />
passport stamp, which is almost always a rubber stamp <strong>in</strong>ked impression, is stamped <strong>in</strong><br />
one‟s passport, toge<strong>the</strong>r with <strong>the</strong> date, both when enter<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d exit<strong>in</strong>g a country,<br />
Countries also <strong>of</strong>ten have a different shape <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> stamp or a different colour <strong>in</strong>k for<br />
515<br />
Wikipedia: Tribhuv<strong>an</strong> International Airport – accessed 31 October 2011.<br />
516<br />
Ibid.<br />
517<br />
Wikipedia: Nepal Airl<strong>in</strong>es – accessed 31 October 2011; Wikipedia: Nepal Airl<strong>in</strong>es dest<strong>in</strong>ations –<br />
accessed 31 October 2011; Royal Nepal Airl<strong>in</strong>es (www.ilove<strong>in</strong>dia.com/airl<strong>in</strong>es-<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>dia/<strong>in</strong>ternational/royal-nepal-airl<strong>in</strong>es.html<br />
- accessed 31 October 2011).<br />
518<br />
Wikipedia: Thai Airways International – accessed 31 October 2011; Wikipedia: Thai Airways<br />
International dest<strong>in</strong>ations – accessed 31 October 2011.
97<br />
entries <strong>an</strong>d exits. Such stamps enable a country to know which foreign nationals are<br />
present <strong>in</strong> a country, <strong>an</strong>d whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>y are <strong>the</strong>re illegally, ei<strong>the</strong>r without <strong>an</strong>y visa or<br />
whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>y have overstayed <strong>the</strong>ir visit to that country. 519<br />
Even a person who has legally entered a country might not always be safe <strong>in</strong> that<br />
country. An example could be <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> a person who has been convicted <strong>of</strong> a crime<br />
<strong>in</strong> one country or even suspected <strong>of</strong> committ<strong>in</strong>g a crime but succeeds <strong>in</strong> flee<strong>in</strong>g to<br />
<strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r country. For such a person, <strong>the</strong>re is a process known as extradition whereby<br />
one nation or state surrenders a suspected or convicted crim<strong>in</strong>al to <strong>an</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r nation or<br />
state. However, this process is not automatic but is governed by a treaty between two<br />
such countries. Even <strong>in</strong> such treaties <strong>the</strong>re are <strong>of</strong>ten m<strong>an</strong>y exceptions as to who c<strong>an</strong> be<br />
extradited. Such reasons could be that <strong>the</strong> crime is <strong>of</strong> a political nature, or if extradited<br />
he might receive cruel, <strong>in</strong>hum<strong>an</strong>e or degrad<strong>in</strong>g treatment or that <strong>the</strong> death penalty may<br />
be imposed on that person, or that <strong>the</strong>y might not be given a fair trial. There are some<br />
nations who refuse to extradite <strong>the</strong>ir own citizens, preferr<strong>in</strong>g to put on <strong>the</strong>m on trial<br />
<strong>the</strong>mselves. 520<br />
There have been extradition treaties <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> past between India <strong>an</strong>d Nepal. The first<br />
treaty was signed <strong>in</strong> 1855, <strong>an</strong>d it was revised <strong>in</strong> 1953. 521 The latter was <strong>the</strong> treaty which<br />
was <strong>in</strong> force when Ronen <strong>escape</strong>d <strong>from</strong> India to Nepal <strong>in</strong> 2005.<br />
However, accord<strong>in</strong>g to Article 2 <strong>of</strong> this 1953 extradition treaty, “Nei<strong>the</strong>r Government<br />
[i.e. India <strong>an</strong>d Nepal] shall be bound <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>y case to surrender <strong>an</strong>y person who is not a<br />
national <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country by <strong>the</strong> Government <strong>of</strong> which <strong>the</strong> requisition has been made.” 522<br />
In o<strong>the</strong>r words this treaty does not have provisions for <strong>the</strong> extradition <strong>of</strong> third-country<br />
nationals.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> 2005, <strong>the</strong>re were negotiations to amend <strong>the</strong> extradition treaty<br />
between India <strong>an</strong>d Nepal, <strong>an</strong>d it was <strong>the</strong>n even reported that <strong>the</strong>y were close to sign<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
However, <strong>the</strong>re were differences <strong>of</strong> op<strong>in</strong>ion between <strong>the</strong>se two countries on <strong>the</strong><br />
extradition <strong>of</strong> third country nationals which prevented its sign<strong>in</strong>g. The “Nepali Times”<br />
at that period wrote, “Foreign <strong>an</strong>d Home M<strong>in</strong>istry <strong>of</strong>ficials <strong>in</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du were tightlipped<br />
about whe<strong>the</strong>r Nepal had f<strong>in</strong>ally given <strong>in</strong> to Indi<strong>an</strong> dem<strong>an</strong>ds that it h<strong>an</strong>d over<br />
third country nationals caught <strong>in</strong> Nepal to India.” 523 Accord<strong>in</strong>g to “The Times <strong>of</strong> India”<br />
519 Wikipedia: Passport stamp – accessed 1 November 2011.<br />
520 Wikipedia: Extradition – accessed 1 November 2011.<br />
521 “New Indo-Nepal extradition treaty soon”, The Times <strong>of</strong> India, 26 November 2008.<br />
522 India-Nepal extradition Treaty (www.oecd.org/dataoecd/22/53/39791430.pdf?contentId=39791431<br />
– accessed 24 July 2010).<br />
523 “Extradition treaty with India”, Nepali Times, #231, 21-27 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2005, p.5.
98<br />
<strong>of</strong> J<strong>an</strong>uary 2010, due to <strong>the</strong> “political <strong>in</strong>stability” <strong>in</strong> Nepal, this revised extradition<br />
treaty had still not yet been signed. 524<br />
Ronen was a national <strong>of</strong> Israel <strong>an</strong>d not <strong>of</strong> India nor Nepal, <strong>an</strong>d was thus a “thirdcountry<br />
national” <strong>an</strong>d was <strong>the</strong>refore not covered by <strong>the</strong> Indo-Nepal extradition treaty <strong>in</strong><br />
force <strong>in</strong> October 2005.<br />
It is thus not clear why <strong>the</strong>re was this <strong>in</strong>itial hesitation on <strong>the</strong> part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> clerk at <strong>the</strong><br />
airport to stamp “exit” <strong>in</strong> Ronen‟s passport. Had he been <strong>in</strong>formed that <strong>the</strong>re was <strong>an</strong><br />
<strong>escape</strong>d prisoner who might have reached Nepal? In <strong>an</strong>y case, <strong>the</strong> extradition <strong>of</strong> a thirdcountry<br />
national <strong>from</strong> Nepal to India was not covered <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> treaty. What made <strong>the</strong><br />
clerk after this hesitation f<strong>in</strong>ally stamp Ronen‟s passport? Could it be that <strong>the</strong> delay by<br />
<strong>the</strong> clerk was due to someth<strong>in</strong>g else completely, but <strong>the</strong> nervous state <strong>of</strong> Ronen made<br />
him attribute <strong>the</strong> apparent hesitation to someth<strong>in</strong>g connected to himself?<br />
The flight to Thail<strong>an</strong>d was short, but we had to wait ten hours <strong>the</strong>re for our El-Al flight<br />
<strong>the</strong>re to Tel Aviv. (p.374)<br />
In 2010, <strong>the</strong> time to fly <strong>from</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du to B<strong>an</strong>gkok nonstop was about three <strong>an</strong>d a<br />
quarter hours. 525 In B<strong>an</strong>gkok, Ronen <strong>an</strong>d Ari had to wait for <strong>the</strong> El Al flight.<br />
El Al Israel Airl<strong>in</strong>es, <strong>the</strong> flag-carrier <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> State <strong>of</strong> Israel, was established <strong>in</strong> 1948 soon<br />
after <strong>the</strong> establishment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> State <strong>of</strong> Israel. The Hebrew words “El Al” tr<strong>an</strong>slated <strong>in</strong>to<br />
English are “To <strong>the</strong> Skies”. It operates <strong>in</strong>ternational passenger <strong>an</strong>d cargo flights,<br />
between Israel <strong>an</strong>d dest<strong>in</strong>ations <strong>in</strong> Europe, Asia, America, Africa, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Far East <strong>an</strong>d<br />
<strong>the</strong>se dest<strong>in</strong>ations <strong>in</strong>clude B<strong>an</strong>gkok. However, some <strong>of</strong> El Al‟s routes have dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />
last decade been tr<strong>an</strong>sferred to <strong>the</strong> Israel‟s two private airl<strong>in</strong>es. Throughout <strong>the</strong> decades<br />
El Al has purchased more modern aircraft <strong>an</strong>d today its fleet consists <strong>of</strong> Boe<strong>in</strong>g aircraft.<br />
Its head <strong>of</strong>fice is located <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> grounds <strong>of</strong> Ben-Gurion Airport. Dur<strong>in</strong>g its history, El<br />
Al has airlifted Jews to Israel <strong>in</strong> countries where <strong>the</strong>y were at risk, such as Ethiopia <strong>an</strong>d<br />
Yemen. In order to foil <strong>an</strong>y terrorist attacks <strong>an</strong>d hijack<strong>in</strong>g, El Al has <strong>in</strong>corporated<br />
numerous security measures <strong>in</strong> its operations <strong>an</strong>d is acknowledged to be <strong>the</strong> world‟s<br />
more secure airl<strong>in</strong>e. 526<br />
It was a long <strong>an</strong>d emotional flight [to Israel]. The pl<strong>an</strong>e flew on <strong>an</strong>d on. ... Suddenly I saw<br />
<strong>the</strong> lights <strong>of</strong> my beloved Israel <strong>from</strong> above. (p.375)<br />
524<br />
“Political <strong>in</strong>stability <strong>in</strong> Nepal holds up revised extradition treaty”, The Times <strong>of</strong> India, 20 J<strong>an</strong>uary<br />
2010.<br />
525<br />
How long is a flight <strong>from</strong> Kathm<strong>an</strong>du to B<strong>an</strong>gkok? –<br />
(wiki.<strong>an</strong>swers.com/Q/How_long_is_a_flight_<strong>from</strong>_Kathm<strong>an</strong>du_to_B<strong>an</strong>gkok - accessed 22 July 2010)<br />
526<br />
Wikipedia: El Al - accessed 14 November 2011; El Al loses routes as Israel beg<strong>in</strong>s deregulation<br />
(www.flightglobal.com/news/articles/el-al-loses-routes-as-israel-beg<strong>in</strong>s-deregulation-148327/ -<br />
accessed 14 November 2011).
99<br />
Theoretically <strong>the</strong> shortest way to fly <strong>from</strong> B<strong>an</strong>gkok to Tel Aviv would be to fly over<br />
My<strong>an</strong>mar (Burma), India, Pakist<strong>an</strong>, Ir<strong>an</strong>, Iraq, Saudi Arabia <strong>an</strong>d Jord<strong>an</strong>. However most<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se countries are not at all friendly to Israel <strong>an</strong>d one c<strong>an</strong>not fly over <strong>the</strong>ir airspace.<br />
Airspace is <strong>the</strong> portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> atmosphere controlled by a country above its territory,<br />
<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g its territorial waters. There is no <strong>in</strong>ternational agreement on <strong>the</strong> vertical<br />
extent <strong>of</strong> sovereign airspace; <strong>the</strong>re are only suggestions which r<strong>an</strong>ge <strong>from</strong> about<br />
30 kilometres (<strong>the</strong> extent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> highest aircraft <strong>an</strong>d balloons) to about 160 kilometres<br />
(<strong>the</strong> lowest extent <strong>of</strong> short-term stable orbits). 527<br />
It c<strong>an</strong> be d<strong>an</strong>gerous, even fatal, to fly over airspace <strong>of</strong> a country without its consent.<br />
This occurred with <strong>an</strong> El Al passenger pl<strong>an</strong>e which went <strong>of</strong>f route over Bulgaria due to<br />
bad wea<strong>the</strong>r <strong>in</strong> July 1955. Bulgaria shot down <strong>the</strong> airpl<strong>an</strong>e, which <strong>the</strong>n burst apart <strong>an</strong>d<br />
crashed <strong>in</strong> flames, kill<strong>in</strong>g all <strong>the</strong> 51 passengers <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> 7 crew members. Bulgaria<br />
belatedly issued a formal apology, stat<strong>in</strong>g that <strong>the</strong>ir fighter pilots had been too hasty <strong>in</strong><br />
shoot<strong>in</strong>g down <strong>the</strong> airpl<strong>an</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d agreed to pay compensation to <strong>the</strong> victims‟ families. 528<br />
As a result <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se non-friendly countries, El-Al has to take a more <strong>in</strong>direct route when<br />
fly<strong>in</strong>g between B<strong>an</strong>gkok <strong>an</strong>d Tel-Aviv. S<strong>in</strong>ce Israel has good relations with My<strong>an</strong>mar,<br />
it c<strong>an</strong> fly over that country. It also has overflight rights for India. The flight cont<strong>in</strong>ues<br />
over <strong>the</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> Oce<strong>an</strong> until it reaches <strong>the</strong> Gulf <strong>of</strong> Aden tak<strong>in</strong>g care to avoid Somali <strong>an</strong>d<br />
Yemeni airspace. It <strong>the</strong>n makes <strong>an</strong> almost 90 degree turn to <strong>the</strong> north <strong>an</strong>d cont<strong>in</strong>ues<br />
over <strong>the</strong> Djibouti<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d Eritre<strong>an</strong> side <strong>of</strong> Bab-el-M<strong>an</strong>deb. It <strong>the</strong>n cont<strong>in</strong>ues over <strong>the</strong><br />
Egypti<strong>an</strong> side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Red Sea (Egypt <strong>an</strong>d Israel have given each o<strong>the</strong>r mutual overflight<br />
rights) tak<strong>in</strong>g care to avoid Saudi airspace. F<strong>in</strong>ally it flies over <strong>the</strong> Gulf <strong>of</strong> Aqaba, Eilat<br />
<strong>an</strong>d cont<strong>in</strong>ues northwards to Tel-Aviv. 529 The shortest time for such a flight is about 11<br />
hours. 530<br />
This <strong>in</strong>direct route resulted <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> exch<strong>an</strong>ge <strong>of</strong> comments by users <strong>in</strong> February 2002, on<br />
“The W<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Web” follow<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong> a m<strong>an</strong> on this B<strong>an</strong>gkok to Tel-Aviv<br />
route.<br />
The news item was, “A 75 years old m<strong>an</strong> collapsed yesterday 4 hours <strong>in</strong>to <strong>an</strong> El-Al<br />
flight <strong>from</strong> Thail<strong>an</strong>d to Israel. Doctors on <strong>the</strong> pl<strong>an</strong>e tried to give him a treatment but he<br />
died. The B777 with 250 pax [passengers] on board cont<strong>in</strong>ued to Tel-Aviv.”<br />
There was immediately a comment by “Ia<strong>in</strong>”, “Pretty much every o<strong>the</strong>r airl<strong>in</strong>e apart<br />
<strong>from</strong> El Al would have l<strong>an</strong>ded ASAP! [as soon as possible].” To this, a person call<strong>in</strong>g<br />
527<br />
Wikipedia: Airspace – accessed 15 November 2011.<br />
528<br />
Wikipedia: El Al Flight 402 – accessed 15 November 2011.<br />
529<br />
Acknowledgements to “Marco polo” via Wikipedia Reference desk – Miscell<strong>an</strong>eous for <strong>in</strong>formation.<br />
530<br />
Frequently Asked Questions about flights <strong>from</strong> B<strong>an</strong>gkok to Tel-Aviv<br />
(www.farecompare.com/flights/B<strong>an</strong>gkok-BKK/Tel_Aviv-TLV/market.html – accessed 25 July 2010).
100<br />
himself “LY744” wrote <strong>in</strong> a sarcastic m<strong>an</strong>ner, “Yeah, I‟m sure LY‟s Arab friends<br />
would be glad to help <strong>the</strong>m ... I'm talk<strong>in</strong>g about such friendly nations as Yemen, Saudi<br />
Arabia, Somalia, Sud<strong>an</strong> etc.” In a similar ve<strong>in</strong> “Pete” wrote, “I‟m with LY744.... don‟t<br />
put this guilt trip on Israel, too. El Al flights <strong>in</strong> that region have to take extremely<br />
circuitous routes to avoid <strong>the</strong> „friendly skies‟ <strong>of</strong> our Muslim friends.” 531<br />
F<strong>in</strong>ally this flight approached <strong>the</strong> shores <strong>of</strong> Israel. Ronen writes that he saw “<strong>the</strong> lights<br />
<strong>of</strong> my beloved Israel” <strong>an</strong>d earlier he stated that he was scheduled to arrive <strong>in</strong> Israel at 4<br />
o‟clock <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g. The date was Monday, 10 October 2005 <strong>an</strong>d sunrise <strong>in</strong> Tel<br />
Aviv was 5.40 a.m. 532 (Israel St<strong>an</strong>dard Time - Daylight Sav<strong>in</strong>g Time ended that year <strong>in</strong><br />
Israel on <strong>the</strong> previous day. 533 ) Thus at 4 o‟clock <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g, it would be pitch dark<br />
<strong>an</strong>d a mass <strong>of</strong> street lights <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> cities would be seen through <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dows <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
airpl<strong>an</strong>e.<br />
When I left Israel a year <strong>an</strong>d a half before <strong>the</strong> new term<strong>in</strong>al was under construction, <strong>an</strong>d<br />
upon my return <strong>an</strong> unfamiliar term<strong>in</strong>al greeted me. (p.375)<br />
Ben-Gurion International Airport has its orig<strong>in</strong>s <strong>from</strong> 1936, <strong>the</strong> days <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> British<br />
M<strong>an</strong>date when it was called Wilhelma Airport <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> 1943 it was renamed RAF Lydda,<br />
due to its proximity to <strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> Lod, which <strong>in</strong> Greco-Lat<strong>in</strong> is Lydda. On <strong>the</strong><br />
establishment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> State <strong>of</strong> Israel, its name was ch<strong>an</strong>ged to Lod Airport. In 1973 it<br />
was named Ben-Gurion International Airport, after David Ben-Gurion, <strong>the</strong> first prime<br />
m<strong>in</strong>ister <strong>of</strong> Israel. 534<br />
The airport is operated by <strong>the</strong> Israel Airports Authority which is a government-owned<br />
corporation that m<strong>an</strong>ages all public airports <strong>an</strong>d border cross<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> State <strong>of</strong> Israel.<br />
It has three runways <strong>an</strong>d is used by commercial, private <strong>an</strong>d military aircraft. This<br />
airport is regarded as one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world‟s most secure airports with a security fence that<br />
<strong>in</strong>cludes both police <strong>of</strong>ficers <strong>an</strong>d soldiers. In 2005, when Ronen returned about n<strong>in</strong>e<br />
million passengers passed through this airport. 535<br />
Orig<strong>in</strong>ally, all <strong>the</strong> flights departed <strong>from</strong> what is today known as “Term<strong>in</strong>al 1” but as<br />
time when on <strong>an</strong>d more <strong>an</strong>d more passengers used this term<strong>in</strong>al, it became completely<br />
<strong>in</strong>adequate, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> 1994 it was decided to build a much larger term<strong>in</strong>al. However, it<br />
was not until October 2004 that this new build<strong>in</strong>g known as “Term<strong>in</strong>al 3” was opened.<br />
(From 1969 <strong>the</strong>re was also a “Term<strong>in</strong>al 2” to serve domestic flights.) 536 Thus, when<br />
531<br />
The W<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Web, Civil Aviation – A 75 Years Old M<strong>an</strong> Died <strong>in</strong> Flight (qa.airl<strong>in</strong>ers.net/aviationforums/general_aviation/read.ma<strong>in</strong>/733901/<br />
- accessed 25 July 2010).<br />
532<br />
Rabbi Meir Posen, Ohr Meir, op. cit., Tables p.12.<br />
533<br />
Time zone <strong>in</strong> Jerusalem (www.time<strong>an</strong>ddate.com/worldclock/timezone.html?n=110&syear=2000 –<br />
accessed 22 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
534 Wikipedia: Ben-Gurion International Airport – accessed 16 November 2011.<br />
535 Ibid.<br />
536 Ibid.
101<br />
Ronen left for India <strong>in</strong> mid-2004, only “Term<strong>in</strong>al 1” was <strong>in</strong> use, but when he returned<br />
<strong>in</strong> October 2005, he disembarked to “Term<strong>in</strong>al 3”. After “Term<strong>in</strong>al 3” had been built,<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> article <strong>in</strong> “Architectural Record”, Andrea De<strong>an</strong> described “Term<strong>in</strong>al 1” as “<strong>an</strong><br />
outmoded remn<strong>an</strong>t <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1930s British M<strong>an</strong>date over Palest<strong>in</strong>e.” 537<br />
The old term<strong>in</strong>al [Term<strong>in</strong>al 1] was small, but <strong>the</strong> new one [Term<strong>in</strong>al 3] was huge. I found<br />
myself walk<strong>in</strong>g endlessly. (p.375)<br />
“Term<strong>in</strong>al 3”, which cost about one billion US dollars to build, replaced “Term<strong>in</strong>al 1”<br />
as <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational gateway to <strong>an</strong>d <strong>from</strong> Israel. The overall layout is similar to<br />
that <strong>of</strong> airports <strong>in</strong> Europe <strong>an</strong>d North America, with multiple levels <strong>an</strong>d considerable<br />
dist<strong>an</strong>ces to walk after disembark<strong>in</strong>g <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> aircraft, but such a walk is assisted by<br />
escalators <strong>an</strong>d mov<strong>in</strong>g walkways. Hence Ronen‟s comments “I found myself walk<strong>in</strong>g<br />
endlessly.” The ground floor departures hall has 110 check-<strong>in</strong>-counters <strong>an</strong>d is <strong>of</strong> size <strong>of</strong><br />
over 10,000 square metres. This term<strong>in</strong>al also has a small shopp<strong>in</strong>g mall, which<br />
<strong>in</strong>cludes shops, restaur<strong>an</strong>ts, a post-<strong>of</strong>fice <strong>an</strong>d <strong>the</strong> airport also has two Synagogues.<br />
Airpl<strong>an</strong>es which take <strong>of</strong>f <strong>an</strong>d l<strong>an</strong>d c<strong>an</strong> be viewed <strong>from</strong> a dist<strong>in</strong>ctive tilted glass wall. At<br />
<strong>the</strong> lower level <strong>of</strong> this term<strong>in</strong>al <strong>the</strong>re is a railway station with tra<strong>in</strong>s to Tel Aviv, Haifa<br />
<strong>an</strong>d Modi‟<strong>in</strong>. The airport is also accessible by public buses <strong>an</strong>d cars. 538<br />
Security at this airport is naturally tight, <strong>an</strong>d this <strong>in</strong>cludes question<strong>in</strong>g travelers, but<br />
unfortunately <strong>in</strong> today‟s world, one has to be one step ahead <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> terrorists. It is<br />
natural that most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> comments on this airport which are posted on <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternet will<br />
refer to this security <strong>an</strong>d most see it <strong>in</strong> a positive way.<br />
Here are some extracts <strong>of</strong> examples <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se comments made towards <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> 2009:<br />
“Ben Gurion Airport is <strong>in</strong>credible! I have travelled through a few times <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> past year,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d have been out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> term<strong>in</strong>al with<strong>in</strong> 30 m<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g pick<strong>in</strong>g up luggage!<br />
That is <strong>in</strong>credible. Security is tight but <strong>the</strong>re are no long queues <strong>an</strong>d it is efficient.”<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r supportive comment: “Great airport! Modern cle<strong>an</strong> term<strong>in</strong>al is a pleasure to<br />
travel through. Staff are all helpful <strong>an</strong>d assertive <strong>an</strong>d security seems excellent. Queues<br />
were not too bad for <strong>an</strong>yth<strong>in</strong>g, whilst duty free selection has improved. Term<strong>in</strong>al design<br />
makes travell<strong>in</strong>g relax<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d at some times, almost like be<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> a lounge.” 539<br />
However <strong>the</strong>re are also non-complimentary comments aris<strong>in</strong>g ma<strong>in</strong>ly <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> strict<br />
security checks: “Was made to go thru <strong>the</strong> security drama. St<strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> a l<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d are asked<br />
questions regard<strong>in</strong>g who I visited, why I was <strong>the</strong>re etc... my sister be<strong>in</strong>g questioned - is<br />
537 Architectural Record, Ben-Gurion International Airport, Term<strong>in</strong>al 3<br />
(archrecord.construction.com/projects/bts/archives/airports/05_benGurion/overview.asp - accessed<br />
22 J<strong>an</strong>uary 2012).<br />
538 Wikipedia: Ben-Gurion International Airport, op. cit.<br />
539 Review <strong>of</strong> Tel Aviv, Ben Gurion International Airport (www.reviewcentre.com/reviews-all-<br />
127122.html - accessed 18 November 2011).
102<br />
she a Jew, who is she married to, how long has she lived here ... Off to a long bench.<br />
Unpack EVERYTHING that took me 4hrs <strong>the</strong> night before.... Went thru two more<br />
checks after book<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>. Staff very arrog<strong>an</strong>t <strong>an</strong>d don't care attitude. Would it help to be<br />
friendly??? They have all <strong>the</strong> power....” 540<br />
**************************<br />
Ronen’s family was at <strong>the</strong> airport to meet him <strong>an</strong>d this <strong>in</strong>cluded his second daughter<br />
who had been born whilst he was jail <strong>in</strong> India. He returned to his home <strong>in</strong> Safed, a city<br />
<strong>in</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn Israel. As to be expected, after such a traumatic experience <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong><br />
jail, it took Ronen some time to undergo a full physical <strong>an</strong>d emotional rehabilitation.<br />
540 Ibid.
Jewish Religious Literature<br />
T<strong>an</strong>ach<br />
Babyloni<strong>an</strong> Talmud <strong>an</strong>d commentaries<br />
Rambam, Mishnah Torah<br />
103<br />
BIBLIOGRAPHY<br />
Rabbe<strong>in</strong>u Simchah, Machzor Vitri (Ish Hurwitz edition)<br />
Shulch<strong>an</strong> Aruch <strong>an</strong>d commentaries<br />
Mishnah Berurah<br />
Aruch Hashulch<strong>an</strong><br />
Goldberg, Rabbi Chaim, Penei Baruch, (Jerusalem, 1986)<br />
Miller, Rabbi David, The Secret <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Jew, (Oakl<strong>an</strong>d, Califonia, 1930<br />
Neuwirth, Rabbi Yehoshua , Shemirat Shabbat Kehichata, (Jerusalem, 1979)<br />
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Internet<br />
For each reference <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternet, <strong>the</strong> website is given toge<strong>the</strong>r with <strong>the</strong> date<br />
accessed. However, with <strong>the</strong> numerous websites for “Wikipedia <strong>an</strong>d “IndiaMike”, s<strong>in</strong>ce<br />
<strong>in</strong> almost every case, it is easy to locate <strong>the</strong> reference via Google, <strong>the</strong> website is not<br />
given; <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> few cases where it is more difficult, <strong>the</strong> website is given.