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In Remembrance - Western Oregon University

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fixation on the marshes’ demise, I was<br />

impressed with the efforts at sustainable<br />

living practiced by the marais (marsh)<br />

dwellers of the 17th century and beyond.<br />

Would you consider molding cow<br />

dung with a special press, and then using<br />

the resulting briquettes to cook your<br />

food? And what about all those trees<br />

along the banks of the canals? Ash was<br />

specifically chosen for its ability to grow<br />

quickly and withstand extreme pruning<br />

of branches almost to the trunk itself.<br />

Thus, the ashwood was harvested without<br />

killing the tree, and then voila!, the<br />

branches would rapidly regrow. Additionally,<br />

while the “locavore” movement<br />

in the United States is relatively young,<br />

the French, including the inhabitants of<br />

Le Marais Poitevin, have long embraced<br />

the concept of eating locally-produced<br />

foods. The marais cuisine, which we of<br />

course sampled intensively for research<br />

purposes, was comprised of regional<br />

delicacies including eel, frogs’ legs, and<br />

snails.<br />

My favorite room of La Maison<br />

was devoted to the eel, as central to Le<br />

Marais Poitevin culture as are salmon<br />

to the Pacific Northwest. French school<br />

children learn all about the eel life cycle<br />

and no doubt create mobiles, drawings<br />

and odes to the eels. The eel is classified<br />

as vulnerable, and its decline eerily<br />

resembles that of our own west coast<br />

salmon. Dams, overfishing, pollution<br />

and above all, habitat loss, have led<br />

to the depletion of both species. And<br />

paralleling our efforts in the Pacific<br />

Northwest to promote salmon recovery,<br />

A typical marais dwelling built from local limestone (above); illustration of an<br />

eel passageway over a lock, taken from a poster at La Maison du Marais Poitevin<br />

(right); traditional barques along a residential waterway (page 18). Photos by<br />

Karen Haberman.<br />

scientists in Le<br />

Marais Poitevin<br />

pioneered the use of<br />

“eel ladders” to guide<br />

eels past dams and<br />

other barriers during<br />

their migrations.<br />

We studied the<br />

display of various lines,<br />

traps and sharpened weapons used<br />

in eel fishing. One fishing method, in<br />

which a tangled mass of vine shoots<br />

is used as a lure, was so successful<br />

that it had to be banned. Why did it<br />

work so well? Apparently, the woody<br />

vines provided an attractive habitat<br />

for the eels. Such vegetation became<br />

scarce when the natural meanders<br />

of the waterway were replaced by<br />

20 WOU Magazine • FALL 2009<br />

more navigable, human-constructed<br />

channels, and so the eels greedily<br />

rushed to these traps in search of<br />

protection and shade. <strong>In</strong> addition, the<br />

invasive Louisiana crayfish, introduced<br />

over two centuries ago to supplement<br />

the local cuisine, voraciously consumes<br />

the aquatic plants, removing even more<br />

protection for the eels. We were pleased<br />

to do our part in ridding Le Marais of<br />

this nuisance species by devouring a<br />

generous plateful of them.<br />

We approached the final wall of La<br />

Maison, a collage of native animals and<br />

plants including herons, dragonflies,<br />

nocturnal mammals, rare irises and<br />

even orchids. The display featured the<br />

highly endangered European otter, a<br />

prominent symbol (alongside the eel)<br />

of Le Marais Poitevin. This last exhibit<br />

highlighted the evolving environmental<br />

ethic within the region. Close to 90<br />

percent of the original Gulf of Picton<br />

comprises Le Parc <strong>In</strong>terrégional du<br />

Marais Poitevin, with the stated mission<br />

of preserving and promoting Le Marais’<br />

natural and cultural heritage. This is not<br />

a national park in the American sense;<br />

the park includes many towns and<br />

agricultural lands, and<br />

very few protected<br />

areas exist within its<br />

boundaries. Although<br />

unconventional from<br />

our perspective,<br />

this more inclusive<br />

approach seems<br />

to fit the long<br />

human history of<br />

Le Marais Poitevin,<br />

and allows the park<br />

to influence the<br />

communities within<br />

its borders. The park<br />

actively advocates<br />

conservation,<br />

renewable energy<br />

use and eco-friendly<br />

building practices.<br />

Furthermore, it has helped to create<br />

networks of motivated people with<br />

the skills necessary to transform their<br />

region into a model of sustainable and<br />

low-impact living. After a thousand<br />

years of exploitation, the people of Le<br />

Marais Poitevin are learning to value<br />

and protect what is left of their unique<br />

marshlands. I am heartened by their<br />

vision.<br />

meets

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