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John J. Marlatt K7AGI<br />

N. 6707 Standard #3<br />

Spoka.ne WA 99208<br />

Build<br />

a<br />

$2 Drill<br />

- - and put your razor to work<br />

I<br />

f you need to drill small<br />

holes, th is little motor is<br />

handy and inex pensive. It<br />

easily drills thr ough 1{8" of<br />

bakelite, fiberglass or aluminum.<br />

It beats putting a #60<br />

(.040") drill in a motor and<br />

immediately breaki ng the bit.<br />

Small sizes need speeds up to<br />

7000 rpm or more.<br />

The following describes<br />

conve rsion of Sunbeam<br />

"Shavemaster" razor motors<br />

into usefu l hand-held drills.<br />

Model "W" seems to be plentiful<br />

at local salvage sto res of<br />

Goodwill Industries, St.<br />

Vincent dePaul and Volunteers<br />

of America, at prices<br />

from 15¢ to 504.<br />

The procedure is as fo l­<br />

lows: Remove two screws<br />

from the bottom of the<br />

plastic case and lift out the<br />

works. Brush off any dust<br />

and cli ppings. Remove the<br />

retaining washer from connect<br />

ing rod and take off the<br />

nyl on rod. Remove 4 screws<br />

and discard all oscillating<br />

shaver parts, but retain the<br />

large diecast plate.<br />

Unsolder two wires from<br />

ac power input post.<br />

Remove two brush holder<br />

clips, keeping your fi ngers<br />

over the holes to prevent the<br />

brush springs fro m flying<br />

away. Remove the 4 hex nuts<br />

holding the end bell to the<br />

motor frame. Sli de out the<br />

armature.<br />

Carefull y remove the two<br />

motor brushes. If they are<br />

less than W' in length they<br />

shou ld be replaced (shaver<br />

repair stores have them).<br />

Brush out carbon dust, etc.<br />

Place the armature in a<br />

vise and unscrew the crank<br />

(counterclockwise). Discard<br />

the crank. Run a 4-40 tap<br />

into t he hole in the shaft.<br />

This is preferably done in a<br />

metal lathe but can be<br />

successful ly performed by<br />

hand . On the reverse end of<br />

shaft, saw a screwdriver slot<br />

with a miniatu re hacksaw<br />

blade. Fi le off any burrs left<br />

by the saw.<br />

Place a drop of oil on each<br />

bearing and, if there are<br />

spacer washers o n the shaft,<br />

put at least one o n the commutator<br />

end for a th rust<br />

bear ing. Re assem ble the<br />

motor and solder the wires<br />

back on power input post.<br />

Now, test the motor.<br />

Take the plate saved from<br />

shaving mechanism and saw<br />

off the bosses or projections<br />

that held the shaft. File it<br />

smooth, and round off all<br />

corners and edges as you hold<br />

this in your hand after<br />

assembly. Replace on the<br />

motor frame .<br />

Drop the motor back in<br />

the plastic case and measure<br />

points o n the ho using even<br />

with ends of the armature<br />

shaft . Dri ll W' holes in each<br />

end . Enl arge the crank<br />

opening to W', preferably<br />

with a tapered reamer, as it is<br />

very easy to split plastic with<br />

a large drill.<br />

O b ta in a steel 4-40<br />

machi ne screw about one<br />

inch long, and cut off the<br />

head , leaving it about W' in<br />

length. Smooth the threads in<br />

a 4-40 die if possible. Screw<br />

this into armature shaft.<br />

If you have the original<br />

power cord with the spec ial<br />

120

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