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The famed Polo Lounge in the Beverly Hills has been a Hollywood staple for years. Many films have been shot here, and the food’s not bad either...<br />

by Joseph Feinstein<br />

Within the Beverly Hills Hotel,<br />

you’ll find the very beautiful Polo<br />

Lounge dining room. A long-time<br />

watering hole for VIP’s, the Polo is<br />

a restaurant you should know. All<br />

too often, exclusive places maintain<br />

a reputation that seems to forbid<br />

the average person’s going there on<br />

a casual level. And, yes, while an<br />

expensive respite, the prices at the<br />

Polo Lounge are affordable for a<br />

special treat or an evening<br />

out on the town. The food<br />

is amazing, and the service<br />

is impeccable: something<br />

everyone should experience<br />

at least once in his or her<br />

life.<br />

The swift valet will take<br />

your car, and he’ll even help<br />

you with your jacket or coat.<br />

You will walk the path into<br />

the hotel where a very comfortable<br />

feeling envelopes<br />

you instantly. Across the<br />

foyer, turn left and—voila—<br />

there you are, with any one<br />

of four dining managers who<br />

escort you to your table. You<br />

can choose to sit inside or<br />

dine al fresco; wherever you<br />

choose, know you will be in<br />

the lap of luxury. Soak it up,<br />

for it does feel good!<br />

Water and their assortment<br />

of bread and butter<br />

arrive two seconds after you plant<br />

yourself at your table. Let the spoiling<br />

begin!<br />

The menu covers a wide range<br />

of food: nine appetizers, six soups<br />

and salads, three pastas, nine entrees,<br />

and six “Polo Lounge Favorites.”<br />

Do pay close attention to this last<br />

category, as it features those special<br />

dishes for which this restaurant has<br />

become famous. And, if you stick<br />

to the tortilla soup with one of the<br />

two salads or a hamburger, you can<br />

get away with a check totaling $36.<br />

I kid you not!<br />

We began with the Dungeness<br />

crab cake. It comes resting on a<br />

bed of summer squash and saffron<br />

puree with Sauce Piperade. It’s<br />

a lovely, moist, completely filled<br />

crabmeat pancake surrounded by<br />

piquant tastes so very pleasant to the<br />

palate. My wife selected the Tuna<br />

Nicoise Salad—an assemblage of<br />

rare Ahi, potato, egg, roasted peppers,<br />

The Polo offers a relaxing respite and a staff that will spoil you rotten!<br />

olives, tomatoes, drizzled by a creamy<br />

mustard vinaigrette. I decided upon<br />

the tortilla soup: a monster bowl of<br />

chicken, avocado, spring onion, and<br />

cheddar cheese in a broth that was<br />

not too mild, not too spicy, but, as<br />

baby bear says, “Just right!”<br />

Fran’s entrée of braised European<br />

sea bass with clam and artichoke<br />

dressing followed the salad,<br />

and smiles of delight issued forth<br />

from her lovely face. She raised two<br />

thumbs to its fulfilling the necessary<br />

qualities of moist and delicious<br />

freshness. I selected the Tarragon<br />

Roasted Maine Lobster that comes<br />

adorned with an assortment of baby<br />

vegetables—carrots, peas, string<br />

beans, squash, onions, celery. Yum!<br />

A sauterne and lobster broth added<br />

further flavor to the phenomenal<br />

lobster.<br />

Because they feature Japanese<br />

Premium Wagyu Beef Tenderloin,<br />

I decided to splurge and order two<br />

ounces ($25 per ounce)…<br />

just to say I’ve tasted this<br />

beef. There were about<br />

six very small slices on a<br />

plate that brimmed with<br />

potatoes, peas, corn and<br />

mushrooms. It is a truly<br />

outstanding taste—like<br />

no other I’ve ever tasted<br />

before. There is a whole<br />

process in the raising of<br />

these cattle that I’ll not<br />

go into here. Suffice it<br />

to say that the beef is so<br />

flavorful, so juicy, so very<br />

delicious. This may well<br />

be one of only a handful<br />

of restaurants that serves<br />

this cut.<br />

Their coffee—served<br />

in an individual press—is<br />

as good as anything else<br />

on their menu. Twelve<br />

desserts to choose from<br />

complete the Polo Lounge<br />

menu. They also offer a<br />

Chef ’s Seasonal Five Course Tasting<br />

Menu @ $85 per person or $125 with<br />

wine. Those menu selections change<br />

weekly.<br />

All told, it was a memorable<br />

evening. P<br />

The Polo Lounge in the Beverly Hills Hotel<br />

9641 Sunset Blvd. Beverly Hills, 90210<br />

Tel. (310) 276-2251; Open 7 days: 7am – 2am<br />

Dinner for two - $125 w/o alcohol.<br />

||<br />

by Billie Stone<br />

A hidden gem on Echo Park<br />

Avenue, Chango Coffee House is<br />

nestled between a hip strip of stores<br />

and a vacant lot.<br />

A quiet haven tucked away<br />

from the madness of Sunset, it’s the<br />

perfect spot for some time out from<br />

your everyday break-neck pace.<br />

The street’s legacy—it was once old<br />

“Gallery Row”—is kept alive with<br />

Chango’s regular art exhibitions.<br />

As such, the shop’s an ideal place<br />

for Californian<br />

“Folk Artist” Elias<br />

C. Telles’ latest<br />

work.<br />

The paintings<br />

seem right at<br />

home hanging<br />

from the café’s<br />

exposed brick<br />

w a l l s a n d<br />

crumbling<br />

plaster work;<br />

the two share<br />

a k i n d o f<br />

homegrown<br />

“hipness.”<br />

Not to say<br />

Telles’ accomplishments are<br />

strictly colloquial—his work is<br />

collected worldwide and has been<br />

featured on numerous TV shows<br />

and movies, most notably the film<br />

Ray. To think of his aesthetic is<br />

to think slide guitar and smoky<br />

honky-tonks just South of the<br />

Border.<br />

Courtesy of Beep Gallery<br />

Telles’ imagery pays homage<br />

both to a bygone Americana and his<br />

own Mexican heritage. Historical<br />

figures—from old baseball players<br />

to Blues musicians—sit alongside<br />

battered American and embellished<br />

Mexican flags. Nudes are hung<br />

alongside dark and detailed religious<br />

iconography. In a time-honored<br />

tradition of historic portraiture,<br />

scrawled text is included in some<br />

compositions to properly introduce<br />

the subject. An elusive skeleton<br />

grins at you from the wall, still<br />

dressed in his dead character’s<br />

costume—a nod to the familiar Día<br />

de los Muertos theme of Mexican<br />

Folk Art.<br />

The paintings have a dark,<br />

moody quality to them, and<br />

seem aged as though they have<br />

reappeared from another time.<br />

In many ways, Telles’ works<br />

demonstrate many of the hallmarks<br />

of traditional American Folk Art:<br />

twisted perspectives of landscapes<br />

in immense detail are joined by<br />

portraits with flat features and<br />

too-round heads.<br />

Telles is a self-taught artist, and<br />

his naiveté of conventional figure<br />

painting techniques is apparent—it<br />

is also what makes the work so<br />

interesting. His surfaces are rich<br />

and luscious, and the dark imagery<br />

is enhanced by his muted color<br />

choices and layered varnish. The<br />

paintings have a rustic charm to<br />

them—some painted on heavy<br />

wood, and others held in wooden<br />

frames made by hand. They seem<br />

almost like smoke-stained and<br />

dust-covered<br />

ancient<br />

relics or at<br />

least barroom<br />

antiques.<br />

Labeling<br />

himself a “Folk<br />

Artist” is perhaps<br />

a c a p r i c i o u s<br />

move. Folk Art,<br />

in many ways,<br />

has a bad rap. Its<br />

credence often<br />

questioned by the<br />

highbrow art world,<br />

the field rests outside<br />

the mainstream<br />

constraints of contemporary<br />

art. “Folk Art,” also known as<br />

“Outsider” or “Intuit” Art, is not<br />

only produced by amateur artists;<br />

it often utilizes craft materials and<br />

traditions handed down through<br />

the generations. Thus, it is seen<br />

by some as inferior to the trained<br />

hand of the artist.<br />

We think Folk Art, and we<br />

think macaroni rainbows made for<br />

Mom, Suzie Homemaker crossstitching,<br />

or that bad Elvis painting<br />

found at thrift stores. Although we<br />

may admire a kitschy so-bad-it’sgood<br />

aesthetic, it can be indeed<br />

difficult to place such works in the<br />

same echelon as Van Gogh.<br />

Wherever Telles fits in all this,<br />

he sure as hell ain’t no macaroni<br />

gluer. And if art isn’t your thing<br />

(no dis to Elias), Chango serves<br />

great coffee in a chill spot, has<br />

friendly laid-back staff, and their<br />

paninis are the best in Echo Park.<br />

Then again, they may be the only<br />

paninis in Echo park, and are well<br />

worth the visit. P<br />

The show runs till Sept. 28 @<br />

Chango 1559 Echo Park Ave., Echo<br />

Park, CA. 90026<br />

Elias C. Telles is represented by<br />

Beep Gallery @ Auntbeep.com<br />

SEPTEMBER 15-21, 2006 ENTERTAINMENT TODAY

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