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exploring<br />
Invisible in Plain Sight<br />
Angel Isl<strong>and</strong><br />
Neil Wiley<br />
Most people never notice, but a ferry ride,<br />
from the suburban seaside village of Tiburon<br />
or the great city of San Francisco, will take<br />
you to a green mountainous isl<strong>and</strong> rising up<br />
out of San Francisco Bay. It is a short ride<br />
to a place of scenic beauty <strong>and</strong> a troubled<br />
history.<br />
From this isl<strong>and</strong> you can see 360 degrees<br />
toward the green hills <strong>and</strong> shoreline of<br />
Marin County, across to the San Francisco<br />
skyline, <strong>and</strong> the East Bay. You can see<br />
Mount Tam <strong>and</strong> Mount Diablo, five<br />
bridges, giant freighters, sailboats <strong>and</strong><br />
yachts, lots of blue water, <strong>and</strong> sky. The 740-<br />
acre isl<strong>and</strong> has its own mountain, forests of<br />
eucalyptus, cypress, <strong>and</strong> pine, with historical<br />
buildings from the civil war, the early 1900s,<br />
<strong>and</strong> World War I <strong>and</strong> II. It is home to some<br />
page 20<br />
unique animals <strong>and</strong> plants, fearless deer<br />
with no predators, curious seals <strong>and</strong> seal<br />
lions, <strong>and</strong> the occasional whale.<br />
Thirteen miles of roads <strong>and</strong> trails are<br />
available. The five miles of the paved<br />
Perimeter Road offer an easy walk or ride<br />
around the isl<strong>and</strong>. Bikes <strong>and</strong> Segways<br />
are available for rent, or you can take a<br />
scheduled tram tour.<br />
Mountain Network News<br />
If you want a bit more challenge, the<br />
North Ridge <strong>and</strong> Sunset trails form a loop<br />
that takes you to the summit of the 781-<br />
foot high Mount Livermore <strong>and</strong> back down<br />
to the Visitor Center at Ayala Cove.<br />
To do it the hard way, you can take the<br />
North Ridge Trail from the trail head, just<br />
left (north) of the bathrooms up a series of<br />
stairs, one-tenth of a mile to the Perimeter<br />
Road, <strong>and</strong> then past the road to continue<br />
on Northridge to Mount Livermore. This<br />
rewards you with a more natural path, mostly<br />
single track, <strong>and</strong> avoids the crowd. An easier<br />
way is to take a tram around the isl<strong>and</strong> to the<br />
entrance of the North Ridge Trail. (Be sure to<br />
keep your ticket, <strong>and</strong> you can catch the tram<br />
back down to the visitor center.)<br />
If you prefer switchbacks rather than<br />
stairs, take the Sunset Trail up to the top.<br />
You can catch this trail from the Perimeter<br />
Road south of Camp Reynolds.<br />
If you do walk the higher trails, be sure<br />
to take a map <strong>and</strong> a watch. You don’t want<br />
to miss the last ferry at 3:30 p.m. (most<br />
weekdays.)<br />
Want to stay longer? Eleven campsites<br />
are situated in various locations around the<br />
isl<strong>and</strong>. Each serves up to eight people with<br />
water, toilets, food locker, <strong>and</strong> barbecue.<br />
You can reserve a campsite at www.<br />
reserveamerica.com.<br />
The other side of the isl<strong>and</strong><br />
If you or your family like history, you’ll<br />
appreciate the other side of Angel Isl<strong>and</strong>.<br />
Visit Camp Reynolds, developed in the late<br />
1800s. See the Civil War-era bake house, a<br />
Victorian officer’s home, <strong>and</strong> a large cannon.<br />
Learn more about the military history<br />
of the isl<strong>and</strong> at Fort McDowell, site of<br />
the chapel <strong>and</strong> the guardhouse, that was<br />
transformed from a World War I <strong>and</strong> II army<br />
base to a visitor center. Discover two military<br />
batteries on the southern coast, <strong>and</strong> a Nike<br />
missile site on the isl<strong>and</strong>’s southeast corner.<br />
october 2015