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exploring<br />

Invisible in Plain Sight<br />

Angel Isl<strong>and</strong><br />

Neil Wiley<br />

Most people never notice, but a ferry ride,<br />

from the suburban seaside village of Tiburon<br />

or the great city of San Francisco, will take<br />

you to a green mountainous isl<strong>and</strong> rising up<br />

out of San Francisco Bay. It is a short ride<br />

to a place of scenic beauty <strong>and</strong> a troubled<br />

history.<br />

From this isl<strong>and</strong> you can see 360 degrees<br />

toward the green hills <strong>and</strong> shoreline of<br />

Marin County, across to the San Francisco<br />

skyline, <strong>and</strong> the East Bay. You can see<br />

Mount Tam <strong>and</strong> Mount Diablo, five<br />

bridges, giant freighters, sailboats <strong>and</strong><br />

yachts, lots of blue water, <strong>and</strong> sky. The 740-<br />

acre isl<strong>and</strong> has its own mountain, forests of<br />

eucalyptus, cypress, <strong>and</strong> pine, with historical<br />

buildings from the civil war, the early 1900s,<br />

<strong>and</strong> World War I <strong>and</strong> II. It is home to some<br />

page 20<br />

unique animals <strong>and</strong> plants, fearless deer<br />

with no predators, curious seals <strong>and</strong> seal<br />

lions, <strong>and</strong> the occasional whale.<br />

Thirteen miles of roads <strong>and</strong> trails are<br />

available. The five miles of the paved<br />

Perimeter Road offer an easy walk or ride<br />

around the isl<strong>and</strong>. Bikes <strong>and</strong> Segways<br />

are available for rent, or you can take a<br />

scheduled tram tour.<br />

Mountain Network News<br />

If you want a bit more challenge, the<br />

North Ridge <strong>and</strong> Sunset trails form a loop<br />

that takes you to the summit of the 781-<br />

foot high Mount Livermore <strong>and</strong> back down<br />

to the Visitor Center at Ayala Cove.<br />

To do it the hard way, you can take the<br />

North Ridge Trail from the trail head, just<br />

left (north) of the bathrooms up a series of<br />

stairs, one-tenth of a mile to the Perimeter<br />

Road, <strong>and</strong> then past the road to continue<br />

on Northridge to Mount Livermore. This<br />

rewards you with a more natural path, mostly<br />

single track, <strong>and</strong> avoids the crowd. An easier<br />

way is to take a tram around the isl<strong>and</strong> to the<br />

entrance of the North Ridge Trail. (Be sure to<br />

keep your ticket, <strong>and</strong> you can catch the tram<br />

back down to the visitor center.)<br />

If you prefer switchbacks rather than<br />

stairs, take the Sunset Trail up to the top.<br />

You can catch this trail from the Perimeter<br />

Road south of Camp Reynolds.<br />

If you do walk the higher trails, be sure<br />

to take a map <strong>and</strong> a watch. You don’t want<br />

to miss the last ferry at 3:30 p.m. (most<br />

weekdays.)<br />

Want to stay longer? Eleven campsites<br />

are situated in various locations around the<br />

isl<strong>and</strong>. Each serves up to eight people with<br />

water, toilets, food locker, <strong>and</strong> barbecue.<br />

You can reserve a campsite at www.<br />

reserveamerica.com.<br />

The other side of the isl<strong>and</strong><br />

If you or your family like history, you’ll<br />

appreciate the other side of Angel Isl<strong>and</strong>.<br />

Visit Camp Reynolds, developed in the late<br />

1800s. See the Civil War-era bake house, a<br />

Victorian officer’s home, <strong>and</strong> a large cannon.<br />

Learn more about the military history<br />

of the isl<strong>and</strong> at Fort McDowell, site of<br />

the chapel <strong>and</strong> the guardhouse, that was<br />

transformed from a World War I <strong>and</strong> II army<br />

base to a visitor center. Discover two military<br />

batteries on the southern coast, <strong>and</strong> a Nike<br />

missile site on the isl<strong>and</strong>’s southeast corner.<br />

october 2015

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