The Local Surfer - University of Exeter

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The Evolution of Historical Surfing Types through Time, Culture and Commercialism 156 Summary 166 Chapter Five: The Local Surfer; Identity Construction and Career Identity Construction and Confirmation 169 Presocialisation 169 Selection/Recruitment 173 Socialisation 176 Identity Confirmation 180 Career 182 The “nurturing” Stage 183 The Traveller Stage 186 The Responsible Stage 190 The Legends Stage 192 Summary 197 Chapter Six: Hessiock; A Local Surfer Community or a Community with Local Surfers 200 The Draw of Local Waters in Keeping a Stable Population 201 Insiders/Outsiders and the Close and Wide Community 214 Social Interaction Through Surfing and Other Avenues 225 Residents Unified by the Sea and Beach, Village and Village Life 241 The Local Surfer and Traditional Family Values 245 A Definition of Community 248 Summary 6 249 169
Chapter Seven: “Some people aren‟t gonna get waves”; Current Issues for Local Surfers 253 A Surfing Fratriarchy or Brotherhood? 253 Female Exclusion 258 The Reaction of the Local Surfer Brotherhood to Outsiders: Localism 261 Summary 270 Chapter Eight: Conclusion 272 Ideal Types in the Surfing Subculture 272 Summary and Conclusion 272 Implications and Future Study 277 The Local Surfer; Identity Construction and Career 279 Summary and Conclusion 279 Implications and Future Study 283 Hessiock; A Local Surfer Community or a Community with Local Surfers Summary and Conclusion 285 Implications and Future Study 288 „Some people aren‟t gonna get waves‟; Current Issues for Local Surfers Summary and Conclusion 289 Implications and Future Study 290 Reflection on Methods 291 Chapter Nine: Reference List 293 7 285 289
Page 1 and 2: The Local Surfer: Issues of Identit
Page 3 and 4: community established in the early
Page 5: Issues within Surfing: Fratriarchy,
Page 9 and 10: Acknowledgements I would like to th
Page 11 and 12: One of the key ideas for this study
Page 13 and 14: Chapter Two Literature Review This
Page 15 and 16: studies in America, predominantly C
Page 17 and 18: class status, ethnic background, re
Page 19 and 20: summary on surfing before this date
Page 21 and 22: However, surfing‟s decline in Haw
Page 23 and 24: surfed with men and were known for
Page 25 and 26: previous study, in particular the s
Page 27 and 28: France Unlike the aforementioned lo
Page 29 and 30: used hollow surf skis to begin with
Page 31 and 32: waves become consistently better an
Page 33 and 34: the ideal types are chosen. Jarvie
Page 35 and 36: emaining distinctive from each othe
Page 37 and 38: is, develops in the given individua
Page 39 and 40: conditions in society” (Coakley,
Page 41 and 42: noted the importance of leisure in
Page 43 and 44: of the more fertile examples of thi
Page 45 and 46: egin (Donnelly and Young, 1988:225)
Page 47 and 48: view as “good balance, timing, a
Page 49 and 50: society (Goffman, 1961) and accordi
Page 51 and 52: construction and confirmation as Lo
Page 53 and 54: emphasis being placed on whether th
Page 55 and 56: 1971). Despite the title, the only
Page 57 and 58:
Gusfield (1975) discusses social in
Page 59 and 60:
them as it is usually part of the a
Page 61 and 62:
Phenomenon of Gang Rape Loy (1995)
Page 63 and 64:
“gouging” are “emblematic of
Page 65 and 66:
warning or as a punishment for some
Page 67 and 68:
you. However he describes the tales
Page 69 and 70:
10. Show respect and goodwill towar
Page 71 and 72:
concerned with “the philosophy of
Page 73 and 74:
their own realities” (Silk et al,
Page 75 and 76:
“simple and prescriptive set of p
Page 77 and 78:
esearch question concerned the loca
Page 79 and 80:
ever felt the participant was unawa
Page 81 and 82:
Tanya Heel Unknown Estimated 40+ Ma
Page 83 and 84:
Ethnography Atkinson and Hammersley
Page 85 and 86:
extremely rich data with depth of i
Page 87 and 88:
meetings or a late meeting. There a
Page 89 and 90:
particular group‟s behaviour (Gra
Page 91 and 92:
esearcher is witnessing. Finally pa
Page 93 and 94:
did not seem to have any affect on
Page 95 and 96:
Figure Five. Field Notes Narrative
Page 97 and 98:
experiences, Marvasti (2004) believ
Page 99 and 100:
esearcher comes from the community
Page 101 and 102:
individuals who are expected to pro
Page 103 and 104:
are not set in stone but are a gene
Page 105 and 106:
interviews will feature throughout
Page 107 and 108:
as inappropriate for qualitative re
Page 109 and 110:
authenticity, the subjects may not
Page 111 and 112:
esearchers, whereas internal reliab
Page 113 and 114:
(Walsh, 2004). During these stages
Page 115 and 116:
form a separate surfing type. This
Page 117 and 118:
Chapter Four The Local Surfer This
Page 119 and 120:
Lanagan (2003) believes that if it
Page 121 and 122:
most influential person in getting
Page 123 and 124:
the fact that Seabra et al (2008) f
Page 125 and 126:
get one person other person in ther
Page 127 and 128:
lot of tension cause some people ar
Page 129 and 130:
know everyone in the water, well pr
Page 131 and 132:
(Michael Howard, 26/10/09, 00: 15:
Page 133 and 134:
the opposition pattern work is high
Page 135 and 136:
In my previous study (Beaumont, 200
Page 137 and 138:
kind of like a hierarchy thing that
Page 139 and 140:
know its classified as a sport now
Page 141 and 142:
is not touristy as when commenting
Page 143 and 144:
that evoked the quintessence of pla
Page 145 and 146:
In comparison to the insiders persp
Page 147 and 148:
despite being associated with surfi
Page 149 and 150:
(Rachel Matthews, 17/06/09) Unlike
Page 151 and 152:
watch” (Wes and Ruth Deacon, 02/1
Page 153 and 154:
Rachel also used the opportunity of
Page 155 and 156:
in 2010 is in its eighteenth year a
Page 157 and 158:
and organisations and can be seen a
Page 159 and 160:
these transitionary periods occurre
Page 161 and 162:
like early 2000s like umm, surfing
Page 163 and 164:
One feature of the typology I creat
Page 165 and 166:
involved in the surf club or pursue
Page 167 and 168:
concerning the concept place and in
Page 169 and 170:
In the case of the Local Surfer, th
Page 171 and 172:
Although the Local Surfer is consid
Page 173 and 174:
do you look like and he turned up t
Page 175 and 176:
months. That was quite well attende
Page 177 and 178:
you just don‟t really care you ju
Page 179 and 180:
experience this stage it does not m
Page 181 and 182:
of the most popular. This is expect
Page 183 and 184:
(Michael Howard, 26/10/09, 00:01: 4
Page 185 and 186:
that did not exist when they were p
Page 187 and 188:
ody ends as in the next stage of th
Page 189 and 190:
skills, knowledge and experience”
Page 191 and 192:
there is a sense that achievement i
Page 193 and 194:
eason to stop. When questioned abou
Page 195 and 196:
this study were actively involved i
Page 197 and 198:
Surfers interviewed as identity con
Page 199 and 200:
Chapter Six Hessiock; A Local Surfe
Page 201 and 202:
in fact they took, commandeered lan
Page 203 and 204:
particularly among the youth popula
Page 205 and 206:
surrounding area cannot provide. Tw
Page 207 and 208:
another reason as to why people may
Page 209 and 210:
Jacob suggests that even when peopl
Page 211 and 212:
shouldn‟t have right there, and h
Page 213 and 214:
Another resident I met in the pub a
Page 215 and 216:
This seems to be the last large exp
Page 217 and 218:
Local Surfers that were interviewed
Page 219 and 220:
(Steve Toot, 09/08/09, 00:01: 14-6,
Page 221 and 222:
got something in common so it‟s v
Page 223 and 224:
would be labelled as an outsider an
Page 225 and 226:
pub when they come back leading Dav
Page 227 and 228:
the club (Tanya and Martin Heel, 09
Page 229 and 230:
Anne: Umm they had that film in the
Page 231 and 232:
ut according to Mitchell the surfin
Page 233 and 234:
most people, people who feel like t
Page 235 and 236:
(who focus on regular group meeting
Page 237 and 238:
decision which Reg with hindsight b
Page 239 and 240:
said no it‟s not your week, you k
Page 241 and 242:
community socially interacts, for e
Page 243 and 244:
mostly in jest and does not provoke
Page 245 and 246:
discussing the make up of the popul
Page 247 and 248:
life in every respect, describing h
Page 249 and 250:
established in the literature revie
Page 251 and 252:
family values as being the most pro
Page 253 and 254:
concerning a sporting fratriarchy w
Page 255 and 256:
you‟ve got things like The Endles
Page 257 and 258:
(Wes and Ruth Deacon, 02/11/09, 00:
Page 259 and 260:
hundreds of them yeah, so maybe the
Page 261 and 262:
Figure Thirteen. 261 (Chris, 2008)
Page 263 and 264:
This has lead to a similar feeling
Page 265 and 266:
just how I feel” (Phil Cole, 26/0
Page 267 and 268:
suggest that heavy localism has eve
Page 269 and 270:
Chapter Eight Conclusion This chapt
Page 271 and 272:
presented. Data from the Local Surf
Page 273 and 274:
o Original Soul Surfer disliked ele
Page 275 and 276:
aised questions about what would ha
Page 277 and 278:
evident, the third and final stage
Page 279 and 280:
construction and the process of age
Page 281 and 282:
conditions in which it is constitut
Page 283 and 284:
leaving for University and work, Lo
Page 285 and 286:
Local Surfer and non Local Surfer
Page 287 and 288:
Although there were notable differe
Page 289 and 290:
A the researcher is the key instrum
Page 291 and 292:
Chapter Nine Reference List Abbott,
Page 293 and 294:
Becker, H. (1951). The Professional
Page 295 and 296:
Chandler, T., Lindsay, J., Cronin,
Page 297 and 298:
Dawson, C. (2002). Practical Resear
Page 299 and 300:
Finney, B. (1959c). Surfing in Anci
Page 301 and 302:
Guttmann, A. (2000). The Developmen
Page 303 and 304:
Kampion, D. (1989). The Book of the
Page 305 and 306:
MacIver, R., & Page, C. (1961). Soc
Page 307 and 308:
Olivier, S. (2010). Your Wave Bro!-
Page 309 and 310:
Scraton, S., Fasting, K., Pfister,
Page 311 and 312:
Tuan, Y. (1974). Topophilia- A Stud
Page 313:
Winders, J. (1970). Surf life Savin
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