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Casa Lucio<br />
MARIA DIAS<br />
<br />
Viladomat, 59 (Sant Antoni).<br />
T. 93 424 44 01. P: €45.<br />
Over 18 years ago, Casa Lucio was<br />
one of the first wine cellars in the<br />
city to serve tapas and more<br />
substantial dishes to accompany<br />
the wines they displayed on their<br />
shelves, as well as top-quality<br />
fresh products that not only formed<br />
the basis of the menu, but which<br />
you could – and still can – buy to<br />
take home. The formula was a<br />
success. Today, Casa Lucio has<br />
been refurbished, incorporating an<br />
open-air bar space as an anteroom<br />
to the impressive dining room. This<br />
is the setting for the exquisite and<br />
original dishes created by Maribel,<br />
one of the great Catalan chefs, who<br />
has now been joined by her son<br />
Alex, doubling the pleasures and<br />
sensations offered by her cooking.<br />
Alex has studied Asian cuisine<br />
but doesn’t want to upstage the<br />
spirit and criteria that his mother’s<br />
cooking has established.<br />
Recommendations are tricky<br />
because, unintentionally, Maribel<br />
and Alex have created something<br />
unheard of on Barcelona’s<br />
restaurant scene – two styles of<br />
cooking from a single kitchen.<br />
Maribel’s callos (beef tripe with<br />
chickpeas), pork tripe with<br />
Caesar’s mushrooms, yellowfootmushroom<br />
omelette, and salt cod<br />
with clams are without equal.<br />
Alex’s cep sashimi with a conserve<br />
of ceps (aka funghi porcini), black<br />
chanterelles and Caesar’s<br />
mushrooms, his gilt-head bream<br />
tartare, Iberian pork fillet teriyaki,<br />
and low temperature–cooked<br />
salt cod with a basil pil-pil sauce<br />
reveal a young chef who draws<br />
inspiration from culinary traditions<br />
at home and abroad. ‘This is a<br />
renovation,’ says Alex, ‘and a<br />
promise that we’ll carry on<br />
developing without walking<br />
roughshod over our traditions. I<br />
don’t have a specific style and it<br />
would be pretentious of me to<br />
invent one for myself. What I do is<br />
the result of combining the best<br />
imported ingredients used in<br />
Peruvian, Thai and Japanese<br />
cuisine with the traditional way of<br />
doing things.’<br />
Regulars at this original and<br />
tasteful restaurant welcome this<br />
new wave that has revitalised the<br />
menu at Casa Lucio, long<br />
considered one of the best places<br />
to eat on a highly competitive local<br />
dining scene. –<br />
THE BILL<br />
(For 2)<br />
1 vermouth with ‘Gilda’ pintxos.. €17<br />
1 cep sashimi ............................€14<br />
1 salt cod with clams ................ €18<br />
1 pork tripe with mushrooms..... €15<br />
2 PiR (Priorat) ...........................€14<br />
2 coffees. .....................................€2<br />
TOTAL (inc VAT)....................... €80<br />
Time Out Barcelona Food & Drink<br />
critics review anonymously and<br />
pay their own bills.<br />
Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 55