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Casa Lucio<br />

MARIA DIAS<br />

<br />

Viladomat, 59 (Sant Antoni).<br />

T. 93 424 44 01. P: €45.<br />

Over 18 years ago, Casa Lucio was<br />

one of the first wine cellars in the<br />

city to serve tapas and more<br />

substantial dishes to accompany<br />

the wines they displayed on their<br />

shelves, as well as top-quality<br />

fresh products that not only formed<br />

the basis of the menu, but which<br />

you could – and still can – buy to<br />

take home. The formula was a<br />

success. Today, Casa Lucio has<br />

been refurbished, incorporating an<br />

open-air bar space as an anteroom<br />

to the impressive dining room. This<br />

is the setting for the exquisite and<br />

original dishes created by Maribel,<br />

one of the great Catalan chefs, who<br />

has now been joined by her son<br />

Alex, doubling the pleasures and<br />

sensations offered by her cooking.<br />

Alex has studied Asian cuisine<br />

but doesn’t want to upstage the<br />

spirit and criteria that his mother’s<br />

cooking has established.<br />

Recommendations are tricky<br />

because, unintentionally, Maribel<br />

and Alex have created something<br />

unheard of on Barcelona’s<br />

restaurant scene – two styles of<br />

cooking from a single kitchen.<br />

Maribel’s callos (beef tripe with<br />

chickpeas), pork tripe with<br />

Caesar’s mushrooms, yellowfootmushroom<br />

omelette, and salt cod<br />

with clams are without equal.<br />

Alex’s cep sashimi with a conserve<br />

of ceps (aka funghi porcini), black<br />

chanterelles and Caesar’s<br />

mushrooms, his gilt-head bream<br />

tartare, Iberian pork fillet teriyaki,<br />

and low temperature–cooked<br />

salt cod with a basil pil-pil sauce<br />

reveal a young chef who draws<br />

inspiration from culinary traditions<br />

at home and abroad. ‘This is a<br />

renovation,’ says Alex, ‘and a<br />

promise that we’ll carry on<br />

developing without walking<br />

roughshod over our traditions. I<br />

don’t have a specific style and it<br />

would be pretentious of me to<br />

invent one for myself. What I do is<br />

the result of combining the best<br />

imported ingredients used in<br />

Peruvian, Thai and Japanese<br />

cuisine with the traditional way of<br />

doing things.’<br />

Regulars at this original and<br />

tasteful restaurant welcome this<br />

new wave that has revitalised the<br />

menu at Casa Lucio, long<br />

considered one of the best places<br />

to eat on a highly competitive local<br />

dining scene. –<br />

THE BILL<br />

(For 2)<br />

1 vermouth with ‘Gilda’ pintxos.. €17<br />

1 cep sashimi ............................€14<br />

1 salt cod with clams ................ €18<br />

1 pork tripe with mushrooms..... €15<br />

2 PiR (Priorat) ...........................€14<br />

2 coffees. .....................................€2<br />

TOTAL (inc VAT)....................... €80<br />

Time Out Barcelona Food & Drink<br />

critics review anonymously and<br />

pay their own bills.<br />

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 55

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