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Travelogue<br />

fairy tales. But now, it’s like reality<br />

check and I couldn’t but wonder<br />

what great disservice we had all<br />

done to our country by not giving<br />

tourism its pride of place.<br />

From time immemorial, the<br />

railways had provided a solid route<br />

for moving people and goods<br />

across the country: students, traders,<br />

civil servants, holiday makers<br />

and tourists were presented the<br />

opportunity to traverse the length<br />

and breadth of the country in its<br />

rich and raw diversity. That was<br />

before the railways fell into disuse<br />

for no justifiable reason except the<br />

misplaced priorities that came with<br />

the oil boom. Until the Goodluck<br />

Jonathan Administration took the<br />

bull by the horn.<br />

We have not yet got to the<br />

destination of efficient high speed<br />

rail journeys; nor are we near the<br />

cosy interior of 21st century digital<br />

rolling stock; but we have made a<br />

beginning, a legacy that subsequent<br />

administrations can improve<br />

upon. Taken together with the<br />

ongoing Abuja Urban Rail link,<br />

there is hope that before long,<br />

travellers will begin to witness a return<br />

to the “good old days”. I am<br />

earnestly looking forward to a ride<br />

in the Abuja rail link. Soon!<br />

The Beginning<br />

I walked briskly into the Iddo<br />

Terminus of the Nigerian Railway<br />

Corporation (NRC) in Lagos at<br />

about 11: 15 am on Friday, <strong>18</strong>th<br />

September, 2015 to obtain a ticket<br />

and board the train to Kano, Kano<br />

State capital. With only 45 minutes<br />

left for the train, code-named Dr<br />

Goodluck Jonathan to take-off, a<br />

sense of urgency had enveloped<br />

me.<br />

Locating the ticketing counter<br />

was very easy. Once there, I paid<br />

N2, 900 for an economy class,<br />

took the tiny hard brown ticket<br />

and moved straight to the platform<br />

that leads passengers into the train<br />

proper. Peeping through the train<br />

windows to know which coach that<br />

had an empty seat, I made my way<br />

from the last economy coach to the<br />

first without finding an empty seat.<br />

All the seats were occupied.<br />

I moved to the first class seater<br />

coach and discovered that most<br />

of the seats there were empty. The<br />

difference between the first class<br />

seater coach and economy was<br />

N1, 600 since the former costs<br />

N4, 500. At that point I decided<br />

to return to the counter to upgrade<br />

my ticket. But as I jumped down,<br />

the train horn rang out: p…aaa …<br />

aam paaaam!<br />

The horn jolted me to the realization<br />

that something significant<br />

had happened. It had been over<br />

two dozen years I last heard the<br />

blare of a long distance train,<br />

equipped with snake-like rolling<br />

stock and set to make a longitudinal<br />

odyssey across Nigeria. Then I<br />

reflected on the name of the train,<br />

Goodluck Jonathan, Nigeria’s immediate<br />

past president for whom,<br />

reviving the rail system had been<br />

an article of faith.<br />

I could sense some ecstasy in<br />

the air, even organized confusion.<br />

As soon as the horn went<br />

off, movements changed. A<br />

cacophony of voices rented the air;<br />

pandemonium everywhere. Those<br />

who were feeding their babies<br />

stopped; those making last minute<br />

purchases promptly terminated<br />

their transactions while some<br />

passengers who had already dozed<br />

off jerked back to life. More<br />

passengers who were sitting and<br />

standing outside started to jump<br />

into the train in droves. For once, I<br />

was terrified.<br />

My Kano assignment was very<br />

important; either I jumped in at<br />

that point or I would have to wait<br />

till next week Wednesday when<br />

the next train would travel to<br />

Kano again. To worsen the situation,<br />

the Sallah celebration was<br />

just approaching and that meant<br />

more movement of passengers<br />

and their properties. As at that<br />

day, most Moslems living in the<br />

West had already started going<br />

back to North for the celebration.<br />

At the same time, Moslems from<br />

the south west sojourning in the<br />

North were making the homeward<br />

journey to commemorate what is<br />

regarded as Islam’s equivalent of<br />

the Christmas. These factors made<br />

the patronage received by the<br />

NRC to be very high that week.<br />

Enough of the recapitulation; suffice<br />

to say that I promptly hopped<br />

into one of the economy coaches of<br />

the train.<br />

I gripped an iron frame as the<br />

train with registration number<br />

2220 pulled out gradually from<br />

the station. There were over 2, 500<br />

passengers on board: children,<br />

women, men and the elderly all<br />

heading to different destinations.<br />

Curiously, there was no formal<br />

announcement to the passengers<br />

before the train departed at exactly<br />

12: 01pm. I was not searched,<br />

either at the gate, platform or even<br />

before entering the train. I also<br />

know that most passengers that<br />

rode with Dr Goodluck Jonathan<br />

that very day were not searched.<br />

Was that intentional? Was it a<br />

security lapse? How were NRC<br />

security personnel sure that no<br />

malevolent persons were on board,<br />

bidding their time to wreak havoc<br />

on the passengers?<br />

I kept wondering as ‘Goodluck<br />

Jonathan’ pulled its 19 heavy<br />

<strong>18</strong>

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