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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels<br />

Dubrovnik<br />

Summer 2015<br />

Trench and Trowel<br />

Croatia’s top ten<br />

archeological attractions<br />

Dubrovnik Homes<br />

Ideal Renaissance villas<br />

explored<br />

N°16 - complimentary copy<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Contents<br />

ESSENTIAL<br />

CIT Y GUIDES<br />

Foreword 6<br />

Bringing to you the wow factor of the summer season<br />

Arrival & Getting Around 7<br />

SOS! Have no fear, IYP is here<br />

City Basics 11<br />

The A-Z of Dubrovnik<br />

Dubrovnik Summer Houses 13<br />

Explore where the aristocratic families lived<br />

Culture & Events 15<br />

Life in the fast lane<br />

Archeological Treasury 21<br />

Ten Croatian archeological destinations<br />

Dubrovnik Pulse 23<br />

When in Dubrovnik, do as Dubrovčani<br />

Restaurants 25<br />

Spicing things up<br />

Local Flavour 39<br />

Treat yourself or be treated<br />

Marinated cuttlefish - grandma’s recipes that have stood the test of time<br />

Coffee & Cakes 45<br />

“How’s that sweet tooth?”<br />

Nightlife 48<br />

Dancing under the starry sky<br />

Sightseeing 50<br />

Discover what we’ve uncovered<br />

Maps & Index<br />

City Centre Map 60<br />

Street Register 61<br />

City Map 62<br />

Dubrovnik county map 65<br />

Dubrovnik Surroundings 66<br />

All in a day<br />

Leisure 79<br />

Treasure some leisure<br />

Shopping 81<br />

Who sells sea shells by the sea shore<br />

Hotels 87<br />

The true meaning of “do not disturb”<br />

Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives<br />

Islets Vrhovnjaci - Island hopping for a day goes a long way...<br />

Directory 89<br />

Services you just may need<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 7


Foreword<br />

Dear traveller, you’ve just arrived to Dubrovnik, a fortified<br />

seaside town that has enough history, legend, and natural<br />

beauty to fully render the above words true. Indeed your<br />

first glimpse of the town, especially when descending<br />

along the airport road where you bypass stoned houses,<br />

terracotta roofs and green pines could be a love at first<br />

sight experience. But we’re here to help your stay be better<br />

than OK!<br />

Our feature summer edition brings with it heaps of things,<br />

places and events for you to see and do. Possible highlights<br />

should include a visit to the Pelješac area and its country<br />

farms which are rich in grapes and wine cellars. We even<br />

have a new wine guide with our very own sommelier’s<br />

fancied red and whites from the area. Our special on Dubrovnik<br />

summer houses ought to leave you spellbound<br />

and for those who come to appreciate a bit of history, there<br />

is a write up on archaeology; you really get to appreciate<br />

the value of a building, monument or statue where they<br />

each have a story to tell. There are loads of events and festivals,<br />

as well as nightclubs for party goers with café culture<br />

part and parcel of life here! The summer beats keep on rolling<br />

and boy o boy do we have some sizzling calendar dates<br />

to put into your diary.<br />

And before you delve into your IYP guide, no matter how<br />

hot or crowded it may get in summer, no matter which Hollywood<br />

star you may happen to come across, don’t forget<br />

that the Dubrovnik is firmly on the UNESCO heritage list<br />

and we hope you go away with some inspiring memories.<br />

Publisher<br />

Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb<br />

ISSN 1846-0852<br />

Company Office & Accounts<br />

Višnja Arambašić<br />

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia<br />

Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24<br />

zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com<br />

Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.<br />

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja<br />

Editorial<br />

Editor Višnja Arambašić<br />

Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan<br />

Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Lana Kovačević<br />

Assistant Editor Blanka Valić<br />

Assistant Eli Gajinov<br />

Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić<br />

Design Lovro Boljat<br />

Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated<br />

Cover © Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Sun Gardens Dubrovnik Archives<br />

Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević<br />

Support Sales Anita Marinić, Blanka Valić<br />

zagreb@inyourpocket.com<br />

Copyright notice<br />

Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright<br />

cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication<br />

may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose<br />

of review, without written permission from the publisher and<br />

copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license<br />

from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel.<br />

(+370-5) 212 29 76).<br />

About IYP<br />

NORTHERN<br />

IRELAND<br />

IRELAND<br />

NETHERLANDS<br />

POLAND<br />

GERMANY<br />

BELGIUM<br />

CZECH<br />

REPUBLIC<br />

ESTONIA<br />

LATVIA<br />

LITHUANIA<br />

BELARUS<br />

AUSTRIA<br />

SWITZERLAND<br />

HUNGARY<br />

SLOVENIA<br />

CROATIA<br />

ROMANIA<br />

ITALY<br />

BOSNIA SERBIA<br />

BULGARIA<br />

MONTENEGRO<br />

FYR MACEDONIA<br />

ALBANIA<br />

GREECE<br />

UKRAINE<br />

RUSSIA<br />

GEORGIA<br />

We have been busy these past couple of<br />

months. Aside from launching a brand-<br />

-new guide in Milan, Italy, we have also<br />

been applying the finishing touches<br />

to our new digital platform at inyourpocket.com.<br />

Radically redesigned and<br />

restructured to place the visitor at the<br />

heart of the cities we cover, our new<br />

website puts you in total control of our<br />

content on whatever desktop, laptop or<br />

mobile device you are using. Give it a<br />

go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward<br />

we have ever taken and entrenches our<br />

position as a game-changing publisher<br />

in all formats.<br />

To keep up with all that’s new at In Your<br />

Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.<br />

com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.<br />

com/inyourpocket).<br />

DUTCH<br />

CARIBBEAN<br />

SOUTH<br />

AFRICA<br />

8 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


ARRIVING by boat<br />

There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour<br />

snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial<br />

port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at<br />

Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town. The port looks<br />

onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels<br />

are located. Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered<br />

1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you<br />

buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver.<br />

Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver<br />

immediately upon boarding.<br />

G&V Line<br />

Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet. Tickets<br />

can be bought in Gruž Harbour from the G&V Line kiosk at<br />

least one hour before departure.QG-1, Vukovarska 36, tel.<br />

(+385-20) 31 31 19, gv-line@gv-line.hr, www.gv-line.hr. 25<br />

- 95kn per person.<br />

Jadrolinija<br />

Jadrolinja ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, between<br />

Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari. Tickets<br />

for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal<br />

line Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online. For<br />

local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance<br />

(maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI-2,<br />

Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83<br />

80, ag.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open<br />

08:00 - 16:30, 19:00 - 22:00; Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 16:30,<br />

19:00 - 20:00; Sun 08:00 - 09:30, 19:00 - 20:00.<br />

Arrival & Getting Around<br />

ARRIVING by bus<br />

The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž<br />

with all its amenities. ​There are frequent services to almost all<br />

Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for<br />

Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in<br />

Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest<br />

choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb,<br />

check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself<br />

some money and a 14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30<br />

- 21:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for <strong>info</strong>rmation. Changing money:<br />

head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange<br />

offices. Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage:<br />

the cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn for the first<br />

hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on the<br />

platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the<br />

station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or<br />

12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by<br />

the platform, or call 0800 09 70.<br />

Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor)<br />

QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70,<br />

www.libertas<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open 05:30 - 22:30.<br />

ARRIVING by car<br />

For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići),<br />

100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for<br />

Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor<br />

belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or<br />

ID card handy.<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 9


Arrival & Getting Around<br />

Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the<br />

A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads<br />

heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska<br />

Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but<br />

you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo.<br />

When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east<br />

and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy!<br />

ARRIVING by plane<br />

The airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small,<br />

clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus <strong>info</strong>rmation,<br />

exchange offices, and ATMs. A post office and car hire<br />

facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall. Getting to town:<br />

scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into<br />

town (35 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance<br />

to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the<br />

bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the<br />

airport to the town centre (28kn one way), but only run a few<br />

times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn.<br />

Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik)<br />

QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77 33<br />

33, www.airport-<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr.<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

European Coastal Airlines<br />

Seaports<br />

Now it’s easier than ever to get from the mainland to the islands<br />

in Croatia. The European Coastal Airlines offer daily hydroplane<br />

transfers from Split, Jelsa (Hvar), Pula and Rab. With these multiple<br />

flight connections throughout the Adriatic, you can even<br />

discover some of the most secluded islands along the coastline.<br />

At this time, the ECA has the following Seaside Airports up and<br />

running:​<br />

Seaside Airport Resnik<br />

QPut Divulja 17, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 89 50 10,<br />

resnik@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu.<br />

Seaside Airport Jelsa<br />

​QMala Banda bb Jelsa, tel. (+385-21) 76 20 24, jelsa@ec-air.<br />

eu, www.ec-air.eu<br />

Seaside Airport Rab<br />

QIvana Dominisa 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 87, rab@ec-air.<br />

eu, www.ec-air.eu<br />

Seaside Airport Pula<br />

QRiva 1/a, Pula, tel. (+385-52) 64 74 16, pula@ec-air.eu,<br />

www.ec-air.eu<br />

In addition to the above, starting from July, there will be seaside<br />

airport: Split downtown, Lastovo, Vela Luka, Mali Lošinj, Novalja<br />

and Cres. FlyIn Caffe Bar is located at the airports in Resnik,<br />

Rab, Jelsa and Split where they will have a dock. The Outdoor<br />

Sundeck & Lounge Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab,<br />

Split and Jelsa for now, and will soon be opening at the other<br />

locations. Souvenir shops are located at all of the airports. At<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


the souvenir shops you can buy interesting souvenirs featuring<br />

hydroplane designs and useful beach products. Passengers at<br />

the Resnik Seaside Airport, which is located beneath the Split<br />

Airport, have a free shuttle transportation service from the Seaside<br />

Airport to the Split Airport and vice versa (about a 5 minute<br />

drive). Passengers can purchase tickets at any dock at the addresses<br />

mentioned above, as well as in the Split Airport, where<br />

they will also have a ticket office. And, of course, online at www.<br />

ec-air.eu. Working Hours for the Ticket & Check-in Offices, Put<br />

Divulje 7, Kaštel Štafilić: Monday - Friday 08:00 - 16:00, Dr. Franje<br />

Tuđmana Street, Kaštel Štafilić: Open 09:00 - 17:00, Jelsa (Island<br />

of Hvar) Lučice Street Open 07:00-20:00. During the summer<br />

months the Ticket Offices will be open even longer. The flight<br />

schedules can be viewed online at www.ec-air.eu or printed<br />

copies are available at the docks.<br />

Public transport<br />

The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!).<br />

You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect<br />

the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels<br />

on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county,<br />

and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website (sorry, no<br />

English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route<br />

map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news<br />

kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticketstamping<br />

machines immediately upon boarding. Out-of-town<br />

routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example<br />

costs 25kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver.<br />

www.libertas<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr<br />

Arrival & Getting Around<br />

Taxi<br />

The easiest and simplest way to get a cab is to call 020 33 22<br />

22, otherwise you’ll find them on the following ranks: Pile, Main<br />

Coach Station, Gruž Harbour, Ploče, Lapad. No night supplements,<br />

27kn base rate, 9kn per kilometre, 2kn per baggage<br />

item and 150kn per hour for waiting. During your stay in Dubrovnik,<br />

you can download the free app inTAXI on your Android<br />

or iPhone for transportation services.<br />

Car rental<br />

Avis - Budget<br />

QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19,<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.apt@avis.hr, www.avis.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.<br />

A<br />

Dollar&Thrifty<br />

QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/<br />

(+385-) 098 42 49 03, apt.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@subrosa.hr, www.<br />

carrentalsubrosa.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A<br />

Hertz<br />

Also at the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15<br />

68, 091 / 425 11 11.QL-2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50<br />

00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01, <strong>dubrovnik</strong>.dt@hertz.hr, www.<br />

hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun on request.<br />

A<br />

snorkelling<br />

big game fishing<br />

The best way to enjoy<br />

Dubrovnik<br />

private excursions-transfers<br />

fishing excursions<br />

www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>boatcharter.com<br />

contact:<br />

0993332829<br />

0914191452<br />

fishing<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 11


Arrival & Getting Around<br />

Paraiso Mediterraneo<br />

From excursions to tours and accommodation, transfers to<br />

car rentals and yacht services, assistance and local guides<br />

in your native language.Qtel. (+385-1) 799 98 40, <strong>info</strong>@<br />

paraisomediterraneo.com, www.paraisomediterraneo.<br />

com. A<br />

Vivado<br />

Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer,<br />

tourist <strong>info</strong>rmation...QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini,<br />

tel. (+385-20) 48 64 71/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@<br />

du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. N<br />

Tourist Information<br />

Centres<br />

The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the<br />

official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik. All the<br />

<strong>info</strong>rmation and materials made available are free and<br />

you are more than welcome to visit them.<br />

Parking<br />

Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking,<br />

and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for<br />

hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head<br />

for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2),<br />

well-placed for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles<br />

passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, although<br />

with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you<br />

might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 40kn per hour depending on<br />

which zone you’re in, and the season.<br />

Travel agencies<br />

Dubrovnik Travel<br />

Excursions and cruises can be yours!QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića<br />

25, tel. (+385-20) 31 35 55, croatia@dt-croatia.com, www.dtcroatia.com.<br />

Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />

Elite<br />

Everything from horseriding to sailing in a fabulous 16th century<br />

galleon.QI-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 35 82 00, elite@<br />

elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

A<br />

Gulliver travel<br />

Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... Also at G-2,<br />

Babin Kuk, Mali Stradun, tel. 091 603 51 23. April - October 31<br />

Open 08:00 - 21:00. QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-<br />

20) 41 08 88, gulliver@gulliver.hr, www.gulliver.hr. Open<br />

08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />

12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

Gruž<br />

QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-<br />

20) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.<br />

tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.<br />

Lapad<br />

QH-2, Šetalište kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-<br />

20) 43 74 60, ured.lapad@tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.<br />

tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.<br />

Lopud<br />

QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 75 90 86,<br />

ured.lopud@tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr.<br />

Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Fri. July,<br />

August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 13:00,<br />

18:00 - 20:00.<br />

Pile<br />

QC-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured.pile@<br />

tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open 08:00<br />

- 21:00.<br />

Šipan<br />

QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84,<br />

ured.sipan@tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr.<br />

Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. July,<br />

August Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Closed<br />

Tue.<br />

Zaton<br />

QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, ured.<br />

zaton@tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open<br />

08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


City Basics<br />

Customs<br />

As Croatia entered the EU on July 1,2013 there are no longer<br />

custom limits between member states or tax return. For other<br />

non-member states we recommend you to follow <strong>info</strong> at<br />

www.porezna-uprava.hr.<br />

Disabled travellers<br />

Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape<br />

and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a<br />

loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have<br />

parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room<br />

adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable<br />

access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying<br />

that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the<br />

streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning<br />

to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in<br />

relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to<br />

organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.<br />

Electricity<br />

The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United<br />

States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.<br />

Money<br />

There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well<br />

as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day.<br />

Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so<br />

be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re<br />

planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should<br />

definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think<br />

you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on<br />

plastic could be a problem.<br />

Roads<br />

When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving<br />

licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard<br />

laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no<br />

mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for<br />

drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is<br />

50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary<br />

roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner,<br />

drive slower, live longer.<br />

We connect<br />

Croatia<br />

European Coastal Airlines redefines<br />

your journey in the air by providing<br />

fast daily scheduled connections to<br />

the most magnificent islands in the<br />

Adriatic. You are invited to explore<br />

stunning coastlines and the beautifully<br />

preserved centuries old harbour towns<br />

Croatia has to offer from an entirely<br />

new perspective. Whether traveling for<br />

business or pleasure, ECA will provide<br />

an experience worth remembering.<br />

www.ec-air.eu<br />

Smoking<br />

Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture<br />

in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean<br />

that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are<br />

more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes<br />

the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden<br />

in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants<br />

where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the<br />

most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 13


City Basics<br />

When things go wrong<br />

Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik<br />

significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you<br />

should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case<br />

of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide<br />

Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police,<br />

ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district,<br />

in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested,<br />

you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case,<br />

contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for<br />

ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb (H-3)<br />

where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car<br />

accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for<br />

accidents on the sea call 195.<br />

Toilets<br />

There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which will<br />

cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče, and one is<br />

at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 07:00 - 23:00, Peskarija<br />

07:00 - 02:00.<br />

follow us:<br />

TAXI<br />

(arrival)<br />

Visas<br />

Since Croatia had become the newest member of the European<br />

Union on July 1, 2013, Croatian Visa Policies have since<br />

become fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy<br />

and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens<br />

of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries<br />

also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting<br />

Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective<br />

country of origin. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and<br />

wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend<br />

you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border<br />

crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the<br />

border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able<br />

to enter Croatia.<br />

Water<br />

Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.<br />

Tipping<br />

Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about<br />

tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and<br />

all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a<br />

bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round<br />

their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to<br />

tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy<br />

thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?<br />

National Holidays<br />

January 1<br />

New Year’s Day<br />

January 6<br />

Epiphany<br />

April 5<br />

Easter<br />

April 6<br />

Easter Monday<br />

May 1<br />

International Workers’ Day<br />

June 4<br />

Corpus Christi<br />

June 22<br />

Anti-Fascist Resistance Day<br />

June 25<br />

Statehood Day<br />

August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day<br />

August 15<br />

Feast of the Assumption<br />

October 8<br />

Independence Day<br />

November 1<br />

All Saints’ Day<br />

December 25<br />

Christmas<br />

December 26<br />

Saint Stephen’s Day<br />

14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Dubrovnik Summer Houses<br />

Discover the story<br />

of <strong>dubrovnik</strong> summer<br />

houses<br />

with Jonathan Bousfield<br />

One of the things that most visitors to Dubrovnik<br />

learn sooner or later is that the former city-state was<br />

a republic of nobles in which most power resided in a<br />

tightly-knit group of aristocratic families. But where did<br />

these aristocratic families live? Where are their palaces?<br />

The Old Town is full of narrow streets and tall, spacechallenged<br />

houses, leaving very little visual evidence of<br />

the city’s aristocratic past. Although there is plenty of fine<br />

architecture within the city walls, especially when it comes<br />

to the former city-states’ governmental buildings (the<br />

Sponza Palace, for example, or Knežev dvor), family homes<br />

tend to be hidden behind plain stone facades – private<br />

grandeur was rarely put on public display.<br />

However an aristocratic villa culture did exist outside the<br />

city walls, where Renaissance houses with walled gardens<br />

are still a prominent feature of the Dubrovnik landscape.<br />

Some of these villas remain in private hands, some are<br />

owned by institutions, and quite a few languish uninhabited,<br />

the potential targets of some ultra-expensive future<br />

renovation project. Very few indeed are accessible to the<br />

Neptune’s fountain from the Gučetić’s family summer house garden in Trsteno<br />

public, rendering Dubrovnik’s villa culture an enduringly<br />

secretive, semi-hidden world.<br />

The one villa that appears in all the guidebooks is the<br />

Gučetić villa at Trsteno, 13km up the coast, where the<br />

Croatian Academy of Science’s Arboretum draws busloads<br />

of visitors. It’s an undeniably lovely place and is well worth<br />

visiting for a multitude of reasons, but neither house nor<br />

garden has preserved its original appearance.<br />

The museum of the Renaissance villa is, it seems, the one<br />

obligatory Dubrovnik heritage attraction that is still waiting<br />

to be invented.<br />

Indeed this villa culture is just as important to the city’s heritage<br />

as its medieval walls or its monastery cloisters. It was<br />

in the fourteenth century that Dubrovnik’s wealthier families<br />

first started building second homes outside the city<br />

walls. The number of these increased enormously in the<br />

sixteenth century, when it became the standard aspiration<br />

of noble families – and the wealthier non-noble families –<br />

to have a place outside the city.<br />

It’s difficult to agree on a general English name for these<br />

villas – literal translations of the Croatian terms ljetnikovac<br />

(summer house) or ladanjska kuća (country house) don’t<br />

quite convey how important these residences were to the<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 15


Dubrovnik Summer Houses<br />

life of the city. They were used all year round, and very often<br />

became the centre of a family’s social life rather than<br />

a place of quiet retreat. These second homes were rarely<br />

showy or palatial – outward extravagance was considered<br />

bad form among Dubrovnik nobles – but they did offer<br />

both the luxury of space, and access to the outdoors. They<br />

were frequently located near to the family’s fruit orchards,<br />

vineyards and olive groves, so had an economic role as well<br />

as a purely relaxational one.<br />

There were certain conventions governing the shape of<br />

these villas. They usually took an L-shaped form, with a<br />

main building comprising central hall surrounded by four<br />

rooms, and an annex leading down the a waterfront boat<br />

house. Within the villa’s walls would be a garden divided up<br />

into box-hedge quadrants, with pergolas to enable shaded<br />

strolling, and possibly a fishpond connected by a small<br />

channel to the seafront outside.<br />

The sixteenth-century explosion of second homes led to<br />

changes in lifestyle and culture. It was at these villas that<br />

people would meet to talk about the latest developments<br />

in business affairs or the arts, or attend parties at which<br />

music or plays would be performed. The villas themselves<br />

were frequently decorated with artworks and surrounded<br />

by gardens, which only served to enhance their cultural<br />

symbolism. Indeed it would not be unfair to say that Dubrovnik’s<br />

cultural and scientific life took place in the villas<br />

outside the walls rather than inside the city itself.<br />

According to leading expert on villa architecture Nada<br />

Grujić, the whole experience of the Renaissance in this part<br />

of Croatia was shaped by the villa lifestyle. “Thanks to these<br />

villas a particular form of socializing occurs, in mutual conversations<br />

and debates”, she wrote in 1991. “In reading and<br />

discussing art a specific way of thinking was formed, along<br />

with our Renaissance literature, philosophy and culture.”<br />

It is impossible to imagine that Renaissance noble Nikola<br />

Gučetić could have written his dialogues On Beauty and On<br />

Love (1581) anywhere else than at his villa at Trsteno, where<br />

the philosophical conversations described in his texts probably<br />

took place.<br />

Given the many violent ruptures in Dubrovnik’s history (notably<br />

the earthquake of 1667, or the destruction wrought<br />

by the Franco-Russian War of 1807), it’s perhaps surprising<br />

that so many of the city’s Renaissance villas have survived.<br />

Few of the original villa-owning families are still around.<br />

Many of Dubrovnik’s aristocratic houses fell on hard times<br />

in the nineteenth century and were forced to sell up their<br />

historic properties – frequently to returning economic<br />

migrants who had made their fortune in South America.<br />

Another watershed occurred after 1945, when many of the<br />

big houses were nationalized and shared out among public<br />

institutions.<br />

Dubrovnik’s Renaissance villas are still an important feature<br />

of the landscape, although they are often hidden behind<br />

high walls and palm trees, or edged into anonymity by<br />

16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

neighbouring modern buildings. Several villas line the waterfront<br />

of Gruž harbour, with yet more to be found along<br />

the shores of the Rijeka Dubrovačka - the sea inlet spanned<br />

by the Franjo Tuđman suspension bridge just to the west<br />

of Gruž.<br />

None of these villas are currently open to the public on a<br />

walk-in basis, although tours taking in several prominent<br />

houses can be arranged through local tourist agencies. One<br />

of the villas you will be taken to is the Sorkočević villa on the<br />

southern side of Gruž harbour, which now belongs to the<br />

Dubrovnik Historical Institute. Surrounded by a high crenellated<br />

wall, the villa looks a bit like a castle – although it belongs<br />

to an era when Dubrovnik’s borders were expanding<br />

and there was no longer any real fear of sea-borne invaders.<br />

It was built in 1521 by Petar Sorkočević, who served four<br />

times as rector of the city, and whose family had grown rich<br />

on the proceeds of the Balkan silver-mining trade. Inside<br />

is a small museum collection relating to the history of Dubrovnik<br />

and a lovely old library. The villa’s chapel contains a<br />

15th-century statue of Dubrovnik’s patron St Blaise, carved<br />

the by prolific Dalmatian stonemason Juraj Dalmatinac, architect<br />

of the UNESCO-listed Šibenik Cathedral.<br />

One other villa that regularly opens its doors to organized<br />

tours is the Bunić-Kaboga Villa, located at the southeastern<br />

end of the Rijeka Dubrovačka. Recently restore to its Gothic-Renaissance<br />

glory by descendants of the original family,<br />

this colonnaded mansion is frequently used as a venue for<br />

conferences and social events. The Villa Stay, next door to<br />

the Bunić-Kaboga house, has been home to the Dubrovnik<br />

Restoration Institute since 1998, and will also open its doors<br />

to visitors on a pre-arranged tour.<br />

One place that anyone can stop off at is the Sorkočević villa,<br />

now serving as the administrative building of the ACI Marina<br />

at the Rijeka Dubrovačka’s northern end. Although you<br />

can’t visit the interior of the villa, it’s an undoubtedly beautiful<br />

spot, with the bobbing boats of the marina overlooked<br />

by a ring of stony hills. The villa’s garden, with its geometric<br />

box-hedge layout, is a popular venue for wedding photographs,<br />

and if you come here on a Saturday you’re almost<br />

certain to see a bride and groom posing beneath the pergola.<br />

Carry on around the curve of the Rijeka Dubrovačka inlet<br />

and you will come to Mokošica, where modern tower<br />

blocks dwarf a handful of ruined villas, including the<br />

Gucetić Villa, famous for its arcaded Gothic-Renaissance façade.<br />

Although restoration work is still in its early stages, the<br />

villa has been earmarked as the future site of the Mokošica<br />

Cultural Centre – a welcome sign that Dubrovnik’s once<br />

great villa culture has not yet breathed its last.<br />

To find out more about tours of Dubrovnik’s Renaissance<br />

summer houses contact the Dubrovnik tourist office, or<br />

drop a line to registered tour guide Branka Franičević<br />

(brankaf@du.t-com.hr) who will be glad to offer a tailormade<br />

tour.<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events<br />

Dubrovnik Art Gallery Archives<br />

Exhibitions<br />

January 2013 - December 2015<br />

Fish of the Dubrovnik region<br />

This extraordinary exhibition presents around 70 fish<br />

species found in the Dubrovnik area not to mention<br />

endangered species presented in 3D models. A didactic<br />

educational playground mimicking fish movements is fun<br />

and interactive for the kiddies and besides the permanent<br />

artefacts from the old museum’s collection, recent collections<br />

will also be showcased.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural<br />

History Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.<br />

January - November 2015<br />

The Freshwater Turtle<br />

Native solely to the Dubrovnik-Neretva County, the pond<br />

turtle (Emys orbicularis) and the river turtle (Mauremys<br />

rivulata) are the only types of freshwater turtles to be<br />

found in Croatia. This exhibition will showcase the living<br />

conditions of these extraordinary yet almost extinct species,<br />

whilst also <strong>info</strong>rming visitors on how to raise public<br />

awareness in protecting them.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural<br />

History Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.<br />

February 2014 - December 2015<br />

The Hum of the Sea<br />

Who sells sea shells by the seashore! Established way back<br />

at the beginning of the 19th century, the collection of<br />

molluscs at the Dubrovnik Natural History Museum is vast<br />

indeed. See a historical overview of the various molluscs<br />

showcased with a special emphasis on species found in<br />

the Adriatic Sea and shore.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural History<br />

Museum ,Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.<br />

March 2014 - December 2015<br />

In Honour of the City<br />

This year marks the 5th anniversary since the reopening<br />

of the Dubrovnik Natural History Museum. Of high regard<br />

is a tribute to two of the city’s historical stalwarts; Antun<br />

Drobac, to whom the Museo Patrio was founded and who<br />

contributed greatly to the economic development of the<br />

city. And to Baldo Kosić, who established the first natural<br />

collection of fish, amphibians, birds, reptiles and mammals<br />

from the Dubrovnik area.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural History<br />

Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.<br />

08.04 Wednesday - 29.11 Sunday<br />

Exhibition of prints by Salvador Dali<br />

An exhibition of works from the great artist’s oeuvre will<br />

be shown in the foyer of the Convent of St. Clare. This is<br />

a unique presentation of graphics from his ‘Biblia Sacra’<br />

and ‘The Divine Comedy’ works. Due to the techniques<br />

used these works occupy a special place in his opus. A<br />

selection of over 130 of Dali’s prints from 1964 to 1967 will<br />

be shown, 70 graphic prints, and Dali’s statue of Dante.<br />

QB-2, Convent of St. Clare, Poljana Paška Miličevića 3.<br />

04.06 Thursday - 02.08 Sunday<br />

Contemporary Japanese Prints<br />

An extraordinary selection of 30 outstanding representatives<br />

of Japanese contemporary graphic art including<br />

Amano Jnji, Arichi Yoshito and Isomi Teruo! All the artworks<br />

displayed combine ancient and traditional Japanese<br />

techniques depicting prevalent customs and nature<br />

on its own using their very own form and style.QL-2,<br />

Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, www.<br />

ug<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr.<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 17


Culture & Events<br />

Dubrovnik Summer Festival Archives<br />

25.07 Saturday - 13.08 Thursday<br />

Marc Riboud<br />

As part of the Randez-vous Festival which promotes French<br />

culture in Croatia, one of France’s most celebrated photographers<br />

Marc Riboud will hold an exhibition in Dubrovnik<br />

and brings with him 15 of his most popular photos and 30 of<br />

his works which were taken in 1953 during his stay in Croatia.<br />

The best of the past in the present!QSponza Palace, Sv.<br />

Dominika 1.<br />

Special events<br />

12.06 Friday<br />

DBN<br />

And the party begins! DBN is a DJ trio with devotion for<br />

house music. Their single ‘Night train’ caught the attention<br />

of critics and world DJs which was then followed by remixes<br />

of releases by Avicii and Nicky Romero through to Axwell<br />

and many other resounding stars. Djani, Patrick and Tobias<br />

are the perfect trifecta to warm up Revelin’s summer agenda.QE-1,<br />

Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.<br />

clubrevelin.com.<br />

The Linđo Folk Ensemble<br />

The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural<br />

exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you every<br />

Tuesday and Friday during the tourist season, when<br />

high-spirited energetic performances with amazing<br />

costumes and haunting songs will echo through Sloboda<br />

Cinema, up until July 10, and Lazareti after August<br />

25, starting at 21:30. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival<br />

(July 10 - August 25) is an exception, when their performances<br />

are as per the festival’s schedule.QSloboda<br />

Cinema, Luža bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 23/(+385-) 091<br />

571 79 63, www.lindjo.hr. Tickets 100kn.<br />

18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

15.06 Monday - 05.09 Saturday<br />

Park Orsula Music Festival<br />

After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated<br />

this phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th<br />

century St Orsula’s Church, as of 2011 Dubrovnik has gained<br />

a new summer stage for this festival which hosts various<br />

Croatian and international musical performers throughout<br />

the summer. There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old<br />

Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum from<br />

this amphitheatre which holds 250 seats and is set on a 200<br />

metre high cliff above the sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the<br />

Old Town or short ride by the No.10 bus. A perfect combination<br />

of location and excellent music puts this Festival on<br />

everybody’s to-do list!Qwww.parkorsula.du-hr.net.<br />

22.06 Monday - 01.09 Tuesday<br />

Stars Beneath the Stars<br />

In its 11 year running, the Adriatic Luxury Hotels group organise<br />

an intriguing music summer programme where the<br />

most attractive areas surrounding 5 star hotels (beaches,<br />

terraces, pools) turn into splendid open settings where<br />

concerts take place under the night-time sky. The combination<br />

of international music from (jazz, rock, pop, Cuban,) to<br />

prestigious Croatian musical artists makes this event sparkle.<br />

QGardens of Grand Villa Argentina; The Palm Terrace,<br />

Hotel Excelsior; Vala Beach Club, Hotel Dubrovnik Palace,<br />

www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com.<br />

28.06 Sunday<br />

Lissat and Voltaxx<br />

Anyone familiar with the beatport top 100 will recognise this<br />

dynamic duo that has been topping the charts for almost a<br />

decade. These gents play a mixture of energetic house music<br />

filled with cool vibes and a touch of underground. With a<br />

combo of hit remixes and originals ‘Silence’, Rock the casbah’<br />

and ‘In love’ just to name a few, they sure know how to work<br />

the crowd. New singles such as ‘Aint nobody’ and ‘Joe le taxi’<br />

are booming around world clubs as we speak.QE-1, Culture<br />

Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.clubrevelin.com.<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


16.07 Thursday - 18.07 Saturday<br />

Revelin Festival<br />

Round two begins after last year’s astounding edition. Top<br />

world DJs mix and remix all night long in the majestic five<br />

hundred year old Revelin Fortress where some of the scenes<br />

of the hugely popular ‘Game of Thrones’ series were filmed.<br />

These DJs, who we have dubbed as knights of the modern<br />

era include Roger Sanchez, Julian Jordan and duo Redondo,<br />

DANCElectricPHILIPE, Speed, Audiometric and others.QE-1,<br />

Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.clubrevelin.<br />

com.<br />

04.08 Tuesday - 14.08 Friday<br />

Summer Film School Šipan<br />

Along with the island’s film festival, workshops are held<br />

for kids under the mentorship of distinguished film professionals.<br />

Kids from the island as well as visitors produce their<br />

own films each summer and screen them in the open theatre<br />

under the stars. We just might find the next Spielberg<br />

here!QŠipan port, island Šipan.<br />

12.08 Wednesday - 15.08 Saturday<br />

Dubrovnik Electronic Festival<br />

Electro grooves will once again pelt out from Culture Club<br />

Revelin and Fedde le Grand returns for the opening night<br />

of the event. DJs from Mars deliver their mashup sound to<br />

the stage whilst Belgian DJ Marco Bailey is set to serve up his<br />

mixture of party techno, minimal and electronic house. The<br />

repertoire also includes Kryder, Saind Wknd, Audimetric,<br />

Phiberoptic and others. Let the music inspire your summer<br />

stay!QE-1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.<br />

clubrevelin.com.<br />

14.08 Friday<br />

S.A.R.S.<br />

The hugely popular Serbian alternative rock band S.A.R.S.<br />

are set to perform in one of the city’s most outstanding<br />

venues, Orsula Park; the very spot they played in 2012. Their<br />

mixture of pop rock, reggae, blues, jazz, hip hop and ethno<br />

music has earned them the swift reputation of being one of<br />

the leading acts of the new Serbian scene.QOrsula Park.<br />

Culture & Events<br />

Božidar Gjukić - War<br />

Photography 1991-1992<br />

‘A photo can speak a thousand words’ and a selection<br />

of city museums have come together to present eighty<br />

thought-provoking, vivid photos depicting Dubrovnik<br />

and its surroundings during the Homeland War, in<br />

1991/1992. Twenty years on, the role and importance<br />

of war photography testifies to the truth.QD-3, Rector’s<br />

Palace, Pred dvorom 1, dumus.hr.<br />

Dubrovnik in the<br />

Homeland War 1991-<br />

1995 (Dubrovnik u<br />

Domovinskom ratu)<br />

Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the Fort Imperial<br />

building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol in the<br />

defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs, published<br />

material, weapons, explosives, war maps and<br />

commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia,<br />

flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home<br />

to a memorial with the names of all the defenders who<br />

had lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very<br />

spot.QImperial Fort, Srđ, dumus.hr. Open 08:00 -<br />

22:00. Admission 15-30kn.<br />

28.08 Friday<br />

Paul Van Dyk<br />

Ready to dance the night away! Then prepare to be<br />

amazed by the dance and trance sounds of one of the<br />

world’s first superstar DJs and Grammy Award winners.<br />

This German giant of jam, Paul Van Dyk will use the medieval<br />

fortress walls as a contrast of modern light and splashback<br />

sound that will bring the house down.QE-1, Culture<br />

Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.clubrevelin.com.<br />

15.08 Saturday<br />

Gregory Porter<br />

Having won the Grammy Award for Best Jazz Vocal album<br />

in 2014, Porter has been defined as a vocalist of thrilling<br />

presence, a booming baritone who can finesse between<br />

jazz and soul, uplifting and unique both lyrically and melodically.<br />

Somehow the 66th Dubrovnik Summer Festival<br />

seems to have got a whole lot smoother. Jazz it up!QE-1,<br />

Revelin Fort Terrace, Sv. Dominika bb, www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>festival.hr.<br />

twitter.com/<br />

inyourpocket<br />

S.A.R.S. Photo by Filip Dizdar<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 19


Culture & Events<br />

Classical MUSIC CONCERTS<br />

17.04 Friday - 30.06 Tuesday<br />

Dubrovnik Symphonic Orchestra<br />

Dubrovnik’s affiliation with music dates back to the 16th<br />

century. In saying that, the city’s iconic symphonic orchestra<br />

was established in 1924 and today continues that honourable<br />

tradition with an amazing programme consisting<br />

of concerts on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays and at<br />

three breath-taking venues. Keep an eye out on world renowned<br />

classical music artists who will join them on stage.<br />

QE-1, B-2 , D-3, Fort Revelin ; Franciscan church, Placa ;<br />

Rector’s palace, Pred dvorom 1, www.dso.hr.<br />

10.07 Friday - 25.08 Tuesday<br />

66th Dubrovnik Summer Festival<br />

One of the oldest European festivals with over 80 national<br />

and international music, theatre and dance performances<br />

shown over 7 sizzling summer weeks. In its 66th edition,<br />

this event has all the grandeur with renaissance venues<br />

such as the Lovrjenac Fort, Revelin Fort, St. Blaise’s Church,<br />

Sponza Palace and the Rector’s Palace that bestow a captivating<br />

ambience. 2000 artists will show you how the Old<br />

City turns into a stage.Qwww.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>-festival.hr.<br />

23.08 Sunday<br />

Ivo Pogorelić and the Zagreb Philharmonic<br />

Chamber Studio<br />

Often called a ‘genius’ and ‘immense talent’, Ivo Pogorelić<br />

is undoubtedly Croatia’s most renowned classical pianist<br />

whose performances have always sparked a lot of controversy<br />

for being either too innovative and/or somewhat<br />

eccentric, yet undeniably amazing. He has played numerous<br />

solo recitals across the globe and will be joined by the<br />

Zagreb Philharmonic Chamber Studio.QRector’s Palace<br />

Atrium.<br />

26.08 Wednesday - 21.09 Monday<br />

Dubrovnik in the Late Summer Music<br />

Festival<br />

Dubrovnik is truly a city of culture all year round and this<br />

music festival, which was launched by the Dubrovnik Symphonic<br />

Orchestra, was aimed at keeping the city’s musical<br />

and cultural vibrancy alive. Until mid-September, a number<br />

of prestigious European musicians will perform works<br />

by famous classical composers in the enchanting ambience<br />

of the Rector’s Palace.QRector’s Palace.<br />

JAzz & Blues CONCERTS<br />

04.09 Friday<br />

Tamara Obrovac Transhistria Ensemble<br />

Watching Tamara and her band perform is an experience<br />

in itself as one is transported into a whirlwind of improvisation<br />

and spontaneity. This international ensemble plays<br />

contemporary jazz with elements of Istrian and Mediterranean<br />

music, thus creating a unique artistic expression.<br />

The concert will be a promotion of their new album Canto<br />

amoroso.QPark Orsula, www.tamaraobrovac.com.<br />

24.09 Thursday - 27.09 Sunday<br />

Dubrovnik International Wine&Jazz<br />

Festival<br />

Dubrovnik again becomes a jazz centrepiece with venues<br />

such as Stradun and the Rector’s Palace transformed into<br />

a stage. A grand line-up of international and local jazz<br />

musicians this year gathers around Jazz meets Broadway<br />

theme. Add to that sumptuous wine and food, it’s one<br />

event that is hard to miss.Qwww.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>winejazz.<br />

com.<br />

Sport events<br />

12.07 Sunday - 16.08 Sunday<br />

Wild League – Water Polo Championships<br />

Low and behold, welcome to the largest amateur water<br />

polo competition in the world. Few argue that this city<br />

is the world capital of water polo, and over 40 teams will<br />

jump into the sea at the beginning of July ready to battle<br />

it out for the title.<br />

10.10 Saturday - 25.10 Sunday<br />

International Tennis Tournament<br />

This prestigious tennis tournament has proven to be a<br />

breakthrough sports event for many young tennis players,<br />

both male and female, from Croatia and Europe alike. The<br />

growing number of participants and interest sparked by<br />

the media only confirms the importance of this tournament.<br />

A true ace!QF/G-3, H-2, Babin Kuk tennis centre,<br />

Ive Dulčića bb; Dubrovnik Tennis Club, Šetalište kralja<br />

Zvonimira bb.<br />

Epidaurus Festival Archives<br />

20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events<br />

Papaya Archives<br />

Papaya Archives<br />

Hideout - Papaya Archives<br />

The Garden Festival - Boat Party by Heather Shuker<br />

SUMMER BEATS<br />

So you are on these pages because you’re in a festival<br />

frenzy and you were looking for a guide to lead<br />

you through the labyrinth. Well buckle up and hold<br />

on tight. We’ll lead you through the adventurous<br />

days and nights of the summer accompanied by a<br />

soundtrack of techno, house, trance, bass, tech-house<br />

(or no soundtrack at all if you prefer)... We’ll attempt to<br />

give you a clear and concise run through of the best<br />

festivals this beautiful country has to offer from north<br />

to south and will make sure you know the place, the<br />

date, and the headliners.<br />

As for the festivals themselves, as an institution in the<br />

past they served the purpose of strengthening the<br />

bonds among the community in the era before mass<br />

media. That time has passed but the need to be a part<br />

of something bigger than yourself, a part of the community,<br />

is still very much alive. This is the summer<br />

you’ll get everything you ever wanted so no matter<br />

what happens just keep on dancing and living!<br />

ZAGREB<br />

Our most northern destination and also the only continental<br />

location is the capital, Zagreb, but the party is<br />

just too good to leave out. If the capital of the country<br />

calls, you answer. Welcome to Zagreb Calling with<br />

the event of the season and a grand gig by the large<br />

electronic duo Faithless on Jul 14th. So if you are planning<br />

to go deeper into the continent, plan your visit to<br />

coincide with this bomb.<br />

ISTRIA & KVARNER<br />

We move on to the Istria and Kvarner region and settle<br />

in Pula. There’s actually not much in the way of settling,<br />

as Pula will be bursting with life with its own festival<br />

madness. Seasplash festival (reggae) will splash<br />

you with sound from Jul 16th to 19th and portals to a<br />

fresher and more enjoyable view on life will be opened<br />

during Dimensions festival from Aug 26th to 30th with<br />

world class names from house to techno such as Four<br />

Tet Live, Ben Klock, John Talabot, and Surgeon. Finally,<br />

September will be greeted by bass music Outlook festival<br />

from Sept 2nd to 6th with SBTRKT Live, Roni Size<br />

Reprazent, and Goldie.<br />

NORTHERN DALMATIA<br />

So we take our journey a bit more south and arrive<br />

at Zrće beach on the Island of Pag, the most famous<br />

party destination in Croatia often dubbed The Second<br />

Ibiza.<br />

From Jun 28th to Jul 2nd you’ll be able to enjoy The<br />

Hideout festival and find your own shelter from the<br />

world with names such as Duke Dumont, Jamie Jones,<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 21


Culture & Events<br />

Nina Kraviz, Sigma, and Loco Dice.<br />

From Jul 25th to Aug 1st prepare your ears for seven<br />

days of love and joy at the Loveweek festival with the<br />

sounds of artists like Robin Schulz, Showtek, Oliver Koletzki,<br />

and Felix Krocher.<br />

Aug 8th to Aug 15th is reserved for the 4th edition of<br />

Barrakud festival with huge headliners such as Maceo<br />

Plex, Sven Väth, Dennis Ferrer, and Ellen Allien, while<br />

Aug 16th through 20th is designated for Sonus festival,<br />

where you will be greeted by the beats of Dixon,<br />

Jamie Jones, Marco Carola, Richie Hawtin, and Seth<br />

Troxler.<br />

Then it’s time to move a few miles inland, where you’ll<br />

be able to find all that was lost at the Lost Theory festival<br />

at Deringaj, in amazing ambience near the river<br />

Otuča, dancing and swinging amongst the trees deep<br />

in the forest from 12th to 17th of Aug with psychedelic<br />

and goa trance DJs, live acts, and performers. A tad<br />

further south we find ourselves in Zadar, which invites<br />

you to come and dance in open spaces at the new Viva<br />

Riva festival on Aug 7th and 8th.<br />

From Zadar we move on to Tisno, an enchantingly<br />

wonderful location that is one of the fastest growing<br />

and most sought after festival destinations in Croatia.<br />

For some mindless senseless fun Tisno opens the season<br />

with The Garden festival. Jul 1st through the 8th<br />

is going to be your last chance ever to visit The Garden<br />

festival at its final 10th edition, called “Going Out with<br />

a Bang”, with the farewell soundtrack provided by Seth<br />

Troxler, Bonobo, and Craig Richards, while just a day after<br />

we say goodbye to The Garden we see its replacement.<br />

Jul 9th to Jul 13th will be a time to notice the<br />

huge Electric Elephant in the room when disco music<br />

will be celebrated by the likes of A Guy Called Gerald<br />

live, Derrick Carter, and Bicep. Soon it will be time to<br />

stop being practical and join the crowds at Stop Making<br />

Sense festival lasting from Jul 16th to Jul 19th . For<br />

these few days this will become home for all house,<br />

disco, techno, electro, soul, and funk lovers with musicians<br />

such as Anja Schneider, Anthony Naples, and The<br />

Black Madonna.<br />

After the madness it will be time for the sleeker,<br />

sexier sound of SuncéBeat Festival with its sultry soulful<br />

house from Jul 22nd to 29th and the soul will be<br />

brought by artists such as Kerri Chandler, Louie Vega,<br />

and Dimitri from Paris. Finally Soundwave festival<br />

will be reverberating over the water surface Aug 6th<br />

through 10th with the sounds of Mr. Scruff, LTJ Bukem,<br />

and Slum Village.<br />

Our last stop in the Northern Dalmatia region is<br />

Šibenik where you will be free to lend your ear to the<br />

SuperUHO festival from Aug 6th to Aug 8th with Einstürzende<br />

Neubauten, King Khan and The Shrines, and<br />

Rosetta.<br />

Central Dalmatia will blow you away with the promises<br />

of unforgettable nights. We start at Trogir which will<br />

be dancing under the Moondance festival flag on Aug<br />

2nd with greats such as Dave Clarke and Kink. Than we<br />

slide over to Split. This is where you want to be because<br />

from Jul 9th to 15th it’s time for the massive<br />

Ultra Europe with global headliners like The Chemical<br />

Brothers (LIVE!!), Carl Cox, Armin Van Buuren, Hardwell,<br />

and from Aug 6th to Aug 8th you are invited to EDM<br />

fantasy of Split Beach Festival with Fedde Le Grand.<br />

Supetar at Brač will become a safe haven for the Voi`sa<br />

festival. Artists like Breach/Ben Westbeech, Greg Wilson,<br />

and Joey Negro play from Jul 30th to Aug 1st,<br />

and then a little more down the longitudes is the oh<br />

so sunny island of Hvar which welcomes you to the 3rd<br />

edition of FOR festival held from Sep 4th – 6th .<br />

SOUTHERN DALMATIA<br />

And finally we are off to the most southern of festivals<br />

from which you can choose. First stop is Korkyralis on<br />

Korčula which is an amazing five week long relaxing<br />

festival experience where you can chill on the farms<br />

and yachts nearby and dance your heart out with Tube<br />

& Berger, Tiefschwarz, Subb-an and Noir from Jul 25th<br />

– Aug 29th, and maybe in the meantime slide to Velika<br />

Duba Bay near Živogošće. For all of those who cannot<br />

help but dance under the stars in the untouched<br />

nature, we present the Adriatic Perception festival on<br />

Aug 14th and 15th when we will be joined by Christian<br />

Smith, Silicone Soul, and Ramon Tapia.<br />

Dance, love, enjoy, and live!<br />

Hideout - Papaya Archives<br />

22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Archeological Treasury<br />

Narona Archeological Museum Archives<br />

Croatian archeological<br />

destinations that<br />

should not be missed<br />

by Jonathan Bousfield<br />

What follows is a list of archeological destinations that are<br />

both significant places of discovery and also rewarding<br />

places to visit. No list is ever complete – very often one historical<br />

site will lead you on to the discovery of an equally<br />

interesting one somewhere else – but hopefully it will provide<br />

a spur to further exploration.<br />

Zagreb and inland Croatia<br />

Krapina<br />

The Zagorje market town of Krapina north of Zagreb has<br />

been closely associated with Neanderthals ever since Dragutin<br />

Gorjanović Krambeger first trowelled up their bones<br />

in 1899. These original finds are so unique that they are<br />

permanently locked up in a secure vault in Zagreb, but<br />

this doesn’t mean that you should Krapina Neanderthal<br />

Museum a miss. On the contrary, it’s arguably the finest<br />

scientific-historic day out that Croatia has to offer; a stateof-the-art<br />

museum that deploys film shows, multimedia<br />

displays and supremely lifelike Neanderthal waxworks to<br />

tell the story – not just of the Neanderthals themselves –<br />

but of human evolution in general.<br />

Although Neanderthals became extinct about 40,000 years<br />

ago, recent research has revealed that they lived alongside<br />

Homo sapiens for a long time and interbred with them<br />

too; which means that all of us probably still carry the odd<br />

thread of Neanderthal DNA.<br />

Vukovar<br />

One of the most iconic objects in the Croatian cultural<br />

canon is the so-called Vučedol Dove, a 3000-year-old,<br />

three-legged ceramic vessel currently displayed at Zagreb’s<br />

Archeological Museum. The Dove was unearthed at the riverside<br />

locality of Vučedol, just downstream from Vukovar, a<br />

major centre of Eneolithic archeological discovery that has<br />

given its name to the Vučedol Culture – a copper-smelting<br />

civilization that stretched from the Adriatic to the Pannonian<br />

Plain. This summer will finally see the long-awaited<br />

opening of the Museum of Vučedol Culture (www.turizamvukovar.hr),<br />

which will attempt to bring these European<br />

ancestors to life with recreations of their dwellings, audiovisual<br />

displays and a wealth of artefacts.<br />

Vinkovci<br />

The eastern Croatian town of Vinkovci has been claimed<br />

to be the oldest continuously inhabited town in Europe,<br />

although similar things have been said about Plovdiv in<br />

Bulgaria, so it’s always worth treating these headline-grabbing<br />

statements with a pinch of salt. What’s known is that<br />

it played host to a distinctive Neolithic group belonging to<br />

the so-called Starčevo Culture from at least before 6000BC.<br />

The inhabitants lived in metre-deep dug-outs covered with<br />

awnings, and heated themselves with ceramic ovens. You<br />

can see the evidence in Vinkovci Museum, which includes<br />

a recreation of one of the dwellings.<br />

Just outside Vinkovci in the village of Sopot, a dig investigating<br />

a quite separate hut-dwelling culture dating back<br />

to around 5000BC is now the location of the Sopot Archeological<br />

Park, where a handful of dwellings has been<br />

reconstructed.<br />

Zadar region<br />

Asseria<br />

Occupying a ridge overlooking the fertile fields of the<br />

Ravni kotari, Asseria was inhabited from bronze age times,<br />

becoming an important administrative and trading centre<br />

under the Liburnians and the Romans before being abandoned<br />

some time during the Avar and Slav migrations. It’s<br />

a compelling site, surrounded by extensive defensive walls,<br />

with a ruined medieval church occupying what used to be<br />

the forum. Located near Podgrađe, 5km from Benkovac,<br />

Asseria is earmarked for future tourist development, with<br />

the construction of a visitors’ centre and a ‘dormitorium’ inspired<br />

by Roman-era residential quarters.<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 23


Archeological Treasury<br />

A lot of artefacts uncovered in Asseria are on display in the<br />

Zadar Archeological Museum (amzd.hr), particularly the<br />

pine-cone shaped gravestones known as cippi, a form typical<br />

of the area inhabited by the LIburnians. The first floor<br />

of the Archeological Museum, newly reopened after extensive<br />

renovation, is the place to learn more about Romanera<br />

northern Dalmatia.<br />

Šibenik region<br />

Burnum<br />

North of Šibenik, just outside western boundary of the Krka<br />

National Park, the road from Kistanje to Knin passes the site<br />

of Burnum (www.npkrka.hr/stranice/burnum-amphitheatre-and-archaeological-collection-burnum/21/en.html),<br />

the 1st-century Roman military camp that is thought to<br />

have accommodated two entire legions. What’s left of the<br />

site is dramatic indeed, its pale stones emerging from the<br />

arid, maquis-covered karst. On the western side of the road<br />

lie the remains of an amphitheatre, while further up to the<br />

east are the remaining two arches of the former military<br />

command post.<br />

Many of the finds from Burnum, together with an<br />

attractive interpretative display, can be admired at<br />

Puljane, a National Park-operated visitors’ centre<br />

located on a plateau high above the Krka gorge.<br />

Split region<br />

Salona<br />

Arguably the grandest of Croatia’s ancient cities is Salona,<br />

former capital of Roman dalmatia and reckoned to be the<br />

fourth largest city in the empire at its height, and now poking<br />

up unassumingly from the fields that stretch west of<br />

Solin, just inland from Split. Salona has been intensively<br />

excavated at several times over the last 125 years, most<br />

notably by Don Frane Bulić (1846-1934), the doyen of<br />

Croatian archeology who is buried in a Late Roman-style<br />

sarcophagus at the entrance to the site. However 90% of<br />

Salona remains untouched by archeologists, hidden beneath<br />

privately-owned vegetable plots and olive groves.<br />

It’s still a pretty amazing place, however, with the remains<br />

of a 17,000-seater amphitheatre, plenty of exposed city<br />

walls and gates, and one of the biggest collections of early-<br />

Christian basilicas ever excavated. Standing near the centre<br />

of the site is the Tusculum, a house built by Bulić to serve as<br />

a base for excavations and a venue for lavish dinners based<br />

on Roman feasts – Bulić himself turned up in a toga.<br />

Most of the things unearthed at Salona are on display at<br />

the Split Archeological Museum (www.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski/hr/index.html),<br />

whose outdoor lapidarium contains<br />

one of the best collections of stone-carved sarcophagi anywhere<br />

in Europe.<br />

Stari Grad<br />

Riding a bike across the fertile plain between Stari Grad and<br />

Jelsa on the island of Hvar you might be forgiven for thinking<br />

that the local vineyards, olive plantations and dry-stone<br />

walls represent a typical Adriatic landscape of great beauty<br />

24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

but not necessarily any great significance. In fact the pattern<br />

of field divisions - and many of the stones that make up the<br />

partitions - date back to the fourth century BC, when Stari<br />

Grad was colonized by Greeks from Vis. Known in Greek as<br />

the Hora, this intensively farmed plain has changed little in<br />

the intervening centuries, and was placed on the UNESCO<br />

World Heritage list in 2008 in recognition of its historical<br />

importance. Remains of a Greek tower have been found on<br />

Maslinovik hill, and the remnants of Roman-era country villas<br />

are scattered across the plain. You might not spot any of<br />

these as you pass, but the timeless landscape of agricultural<br />

toil is enough to give you a strong impression of Mediterranean<br />

culture and its centuries-long continuity.<br />

Dubrovnik region<br />

Narona<br />

Surrounded by the reeds and waterways of the Neretva<br />

Delta, the Narona Archeological Museum (www.a-m-narona.hr)<br />

just west of Metković is an outstanding example of<br />

how to display a historically significant archeological site<br />

while at the same time making it an entertaining place to<br />

bring the family. Key to its success is the building, a grey<br />

shell built right on top of an excavations sit that can be<br />

viewed through a glass floor. Metal stairways lead to upper<br />

levels of the museum where display cases contain coins<br />

and ceramics, and eventually lead out onto the museum’s<br />

roof, which offers excellent views of the surrounding landscape.<br />

Narona was an important trading post on the Roman road<br />

from Dalmatia into the Balkan interior. A temple complex<br />

thought to have honoured the Emperor Augustus is very<br />

much the museum’s centerpiece: Augustus and his household<br />

are represented by a group of fourteen statues, although<br />

all of them are now headless making identification<br />

somewhat difficult. One of the missing heads, thought to<br />

represent Augustus’s wife Livia, was purchased from locals<br />

by British archeologist Arthur Evans in the 1870s, and can<br />

currently be seen in the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford.<br />

Vela Spila, Vela Luka<br />

Once you get past the Neanderthals of Krapina, the oldest<br />

inhabitant of Croatia so far excavated is probably ‘Stanko’,<br />

the 9000-year-old skeleton pulled out of an archeological<br />

trench in Vela Spila (www.velaspila.hr), a partially-collapsed<br />

cave on the hillside just above the Korčulan port of Vela<br />

Luka. The site is of huge importance to students of Mediterranean<br />

prehistory, having played host to successive human<br />

cultures from Stanko’s time onwards. The recent discovery<br />

of 17,500-year-old ceramic objects thought to represent<br />

cult figures and animals sent waves of excitement through<br />

the global archeological community – although it will take<br />

some time before these extraordinarily early ceramics are<br />

fully evaluated and put on display. The cave itself doesn’t<br />

hold an archeological display as such, but it’s a wonderfully<br />

evocative spot in which to ponder the lifestyles of your distant<br />

ancestors. Many of the older finds from Vela Spila are<br />

on show at the Vela Luka Cultural Centre (www.czkvl.hr)<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Dubrovnik Pulse<br />

We asked locals - who live or work in<br />

Dubrovnik - to give us a few tips on how to<br />

enrich your stay in this city and make it that<br />

bit more interesting.<br />

Andro Vidak<br />

Orsula Park Festival Manager and President of Ambient Croatia<br />

DIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or<br />

go out at night?<br />

Andro: Park Orsula, of course, ha ha ha ...<br />

DIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Dubrovnik?<br />

Andro: My favourite place for a day of relaxing is Lokrum.<br />

At sunset, I recommend, however, Orsula ..<br />

DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?<br />

Which activities do you recommend?<br />

Andro: The best way to explore Dubrovnik is to make direct<br />

and immediate contact with the locals. People with<br />

similarities will easily meet each other, no matter what<br />

ethnicity or race. I would suggest all types of activities<br />

that lead people to meet one another, to connect and<br />

share their own experiences and knowledge. From these<br />

meetings the most beautiful memories and emotions tie<br />

you to the places you have visited. We call that unmaterialistic<br />

heritage, spirit ... Material images are better and<br />

brighter when they are upgraded with this...<br />

DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What<br />

do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?<br />

Andro: The souvenirs that are offered are somehow uniform<br />

and are full of kitsch products. Tourists are faced<br />

with a multitude of trinkets that mean nothing. Personally,<br />

as a souvenir I would recommend a good bottle of<br />

Pelješac Plavac. It is a unique, authentic wine, with a taste<br />

that allows you to feel the typical spirit of this climate.<br />

DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend<br />

as a “must-try” for visitors?<br />

Andro: Ston oysters and lešada with red grouper fish.<br />

Anisa Borojević<br />

Director of Communications at Gulliver Travel<br />

DIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee<br />

or go out at night?<br />

Anisa: Cafe Gallery in the Old Town is my choice whether<br />

it’s for coffee or a night out.<br />

DIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Dubrovnik?<br />

Anisa: Although it is not in Dubrovnik, the Vrbova bay on<br />

the island of Šipan is definitely one of the the best places<br />

to relax, enjoy good food, the sea ...<br />

DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?<br />

Which activities do you recommend?<br />

Anisa: Walking around the city is the best recommendation.<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 25


Dubrovnik Pulse<br />

BARBA Restaurant Archives<br />

DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What<br />

do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?<br />

Anisa: Something from the AR atelier academic painter<br />

Antonia Rusković Radonić who in a wonderful way combines<br />

tradition and art.<br />

DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend<br />

as a “must-try” for visitors?<br />

Anisa: Popara (Gregada Fish Stew) at the restaurant Glorijet.<br />

Simona Farac<br />

Dubrovnik Treasures<br />

where you can just relax and take in the beauty. Saint Jacob’s<br />

beach is also lovely, has a great view… but a few too<br />

many stairs for some… for me it is worth it.<br />

DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?<br />

Which activities do you recommend?<br />

Simona: Dubrovnik is quite small… walk around the<br />

walls and side streets of the Old Town, take the cable car<br />

up to the top of the mountain for a breathtaking view of<br />

Dubrovnik at sunset, take a taxi to Lapad, and catch a taxi<br />

boat to see the small islands surrounding Dubrovnik. Kayaking<br />

around Dubrovnik seems like it would be a lovely<br />

way to see the walls of the city, but I haven’t done it yet,<br />

so I can’t really recommend it.<br />

DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What<br />

do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?<br />

Simona: The best place to shop for the ladies is definitely<br />

‘Dubrovnik Treasures.’ For those who love jewelry, we<br />

surely have something for you. Jewelry is a great souvenir<br />

because it’s small, light and therefore easy to pack. It is<br />

something that you will wear and it won’t just sit on the<br />

shelf collecting dust. As a souvenir, I recommend buying<br />

a piece of jewelry with the ‘Dubrovnik button’ (known as<br />

the ‘Puca’) which we implement in many of our designs.<br />

It is a traditional filigree ball which was previously used<br />

as buttons on the national dress. You could also choose a<br />

piece with the authentic local Adriatic coral. The Konavle<br />

loop earrings, known as “ Verizice’ are also a nice memento.<br />

Women would pass these earrings down from generation<br />

to generation. In our boutique you can also find<br />

more modern, unique designs all of which are handmade<br />

by local artists (including myself)! For the guys, I would<br />

suggest taking home a Croata tie, or a bottle of local wine.<br />

DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend<br />

as a “must-try” for visitors?<br />

Simona: I think that all visitors should definitely try the<br />

oysters at ‘Bota Sare.’ These oysters are from Mali Ston and<br />

are known to be amongst the best in the world! If you<br />

have a sweet tooth, try the Dubrovnik ‘Rozata’.<br />

DIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee<br />

or go out at night?<br />

Simona: I like to go for drinks along the water. During the<br />

day, especially at sunset, I suggest having a cocktail at the<br />

cave bar ‘More’ in Uvala Lapad (make sure to check out<br />

the cave!) If you are in the Old Town, then I would recommend<br />

‘Buza’ Bar. If you would like to try the delicious local<br />

wines, then ‘D’Vino’ wine bar is the place to go.<br />

DIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Dubrovnik?<br />

Simona: During the summer season when Dubrovnik<br />

gets busy, I like to escape from the crowds by taking a<br />

short boat ride to the island of Lokrum… Pack yourself<br />

a little picnic and you are sure to find a secluded place<br />

26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants<br />

Fish Restaurant Photo Archives<br />

Croatian<br />

Dubravka<br />

Enjoy your breakfast while the sun rises over the walls of<br />

Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes throughout<br />

the day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza Brsalje<br />

with Nautika, and has a splendid view of the Lovrijenac,<br />

Minčeta and Bokar fortresses, and a peek of the deep blue<br />

beyond the walls.QA-2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19,<br />

nautika@du.t-com.hr, www.dubravka1836.hr. Open<br />

08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 160kn). PiAUGBW<br />

Kopun<br />

Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the<br />

Jesuit Church, this restaurant features food from all across<br />

Croatia, and when we say all over, we mean all over; every<br />

notable region is represented on the menu. As their name<br />

suggests their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and<br />

me, and they also have local beer on tap.QC-4, Poljana<br />

Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099<br />

212 17 51, 099 201 51 52, <strong>info</strong>@restaurantkopun.com,<br />

www.restaurantkopun.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 -<br />

220kn). PJAGBW<br />

Mimoza<br />

In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100<br />

meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle<br />

your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly<br />

without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace,<br />

shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place<br />

to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian<br />

dishes. Delivery is available.QJ-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika<br />

9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr,<br />

www.esculap-teo.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn).<br />

PiTAEGBW<br />

Orhan<br />

Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it’s like something<br />

out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of<br />

houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore,<br />

a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at<br />

reasonable prices.QK-3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20)<br />

41 41 83/(+385-) 091 725 51 09, <strong>info</strong>@restaurant-orhan.<br />

com, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:30.<br />

(50 - 200kn). PJAGBW<br />

Lady Pi-Pi<br />

Wine and dine whilst overlooking the grand walls of Dubrovnik<br />

and sea. Large platters for fish and meat devotees<br />

are jammed with goodies and the food is cooked in front<br />

of you on an outdoor terrace with an open fire. The cuisine<br />

is freshly prepped and prices are fair.QC-1, Peline bb.<br />

Open 09:00 - 23:00 and depending on weather conditions.<br />

(65 - 150kn). JAB<br />

Taverna Nostromo<br />

The food here is the subject of much praise among Dubrovnik’s<br />

citizens, and the service is fantastic. The taverna<br />

has a casual feel while the restaurant upstairs is the<br />

essence of modern refinement.QI-2, Obala Stjepana<br />

Radića 38 (Hotel Petka), tel. (+385-20) 41 05 24/(+385-<br />

20) 41 05 25, gastro@hotelpetka.hr, www.hotelpetka.<br />

hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 120kn). PAGBW<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 27


Restaurants<br />

Aquarius hotel&restaurant<br />

Lapad Bay - Mata Vodopica 4a<br />

20 000 Dubrovnik<br />

Zoe<br />

Zoe is an excellent place at which to sample choice local<br />

food on a lovely sea-facing terrace. As well as grilled<br />

fish pure-and-simple there’s a healthy sprinkling of traditional<br />

country recipes, such as roast duck breast, or<br />

stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded frogs’ legs<br />

or risotto with boletus mushrooms will probably suffice<br />

as a lunchtime main course.QF-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31,<br />

tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, <strong>info</strong>@importanneresort.com,<br />

www.importanneresort.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 -<br />

150kn). PALGBW<br />

International<br />

Bistro San Francesco<br />

If you’re looking for a traditional Italian meal then San Francesco<br />

is the place to go. They offer classic Italian meals, such<br />

as pasta, pasta and more pasta, as well as delicious fish and<br />

meat dishes. Located in a quiet and cozy side street away<br />

from the hustle and bustle of Stradun, the red-and-white<br />

checkered tablecloths and pictures of Italy and well-known<br />

Italians creates an authentic Italian-feel to the place.QC-2,<br />

Vetranićeva 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 11, FRANCAVILLA.<br />

DU@GMAIL.COM. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. TJAB<br />

Gusta me<br />

This small restaurant sits just above the Ploče Gate and has<br />

a pleasant, if somewhat muted, view of the City walls at<br />

night. Like most restaurants here it has a sizeable outdoor<br />

terrace, which is excellently sheltered so that bad weather<br />

28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

p: +385 20 456 111<br />

e: sales@hotel-aquarius.net<br />

w: www.hotel-aquarius.net<br />

need not force you indoors. The menu has a strong selection<br />

of Croatian wines and their food would suit a vegan<br />

as well as any carnivore.QE-1, Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20)<br />

42 00 13, gustame.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@gmail.com. Open 08:30 -<br />

24:00. (50 - 150kn). PAGBXW<br />

Incredible India<br />

Authentic Indian cuisine has finally made its way to Dubrovnik!<br />

Located on a narrow side street off of Stradun,<br />

this restaurant offers a cozy atmosphere between the cool<br />

stone walls. The orange coloured walls, decorated with<br />

pictures of India, create a traditional Indian feel. They offer<br />

dishes from all over the Indian subcontinent and use only<br />

the freshest ingredients. Enjoy some chicken tandoori and<br />

prawn masala with a side of saffron rice or garlic naan. To<br />

drink, try some traditional Indian masala tea or sweet lassi.<br />

Reservations are recommended ahead of time as seats fill<br />

up quickly.QC-2, Vetranićeva 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 27 43.<br />

Open 11:00 - 23:00.<br />

Korean Restaurant Onofrio<br />

Craving some Korean food during your stay in Dubrovnik?<br />

Then stop by the Korean Restaurant, located right by the<br />

famous Onofrio fountain at the entrance to the city. They<br />

offer delicious Korean dishes, such as Spicy Pork BBQ, Spicy<br />

Stir-Fried Squid, Spicy Braised Chicken and many more. Enjoy<br />

your meal outdoors on the cool smooth stones of the<br />

Old City or indoors in the cozy interior of the restaurant.<br />

QB-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385-) 099 669 06<br />

58. JABW<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants<br />

La Castile<br />

This restaurant is part of the Royal Princess Hotel and<br />

offers a variety of top-quality local seafood and meat<br />

dishes. Each classy and sophisticated dish is made using<br />

the freshest ingredients and can be savoured with<br />

a local or foreign wine. Enjoy this delicious meal while<br />

overlooking the amazing Adriatic Sea. At this restaurant,<br />

you’re in for a real treat!QF-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31,<br />

tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, <strong>info</strong>@importanneresort.com,<br />

www.importanneresort.com. Open 06:30 - 23:00. (120<br />

- 150kn). PiAGBXW<br />

Lucin kantun<br />

“Lucy’s Corner” is a cosy little place just off Stradun, all in<br />

sunshine yellow and with wooden furnishings, and a rustic<br />

open kitchen where you can watch the chef at work.<br />

He cooks up tapas and Mediterranean dishes, plus there’s<br />

a nice selection of desserts.QB-2, Od Sigurate bb, tel.<br />

(+385-20) 32 10 03. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (75 - 150kn).<br />

PJAGBW<br />

Porat Bar & Grill<br />

Located in the Gruž Harbour, this classy and modern restaurant<br />

has a variety of delicious dishes to choose from<br />

on their menu. They offer various soups and salads, gourmet<br />

burgers, grilled steaks, as well as fresh “Catch of the<br />

Day” fish, all artfully presented. It’s the perfect spot for an<br />

evening out with your friends and family.QH-1, Obala<br />

Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, <strong>info</strong>@porat<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com,<br />

www.porat-<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com. Open<br />

11:00–23:00. (25 - 625kn). iTABS<br />

Restaurant 360°<br />

If this review were to merely say ‘WOW!’ then it would be<br />

doing this restaurant a great injustice. 360° is designed for<br />

couples, not for larger groups, so it maintains a wonderful<br />

Magellan<br />

The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural<br />

light that floods through huge windows on all four sides.<br />

The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in modern<br />

paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most<br />

important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made;<br />

everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service<br />

is first-class.QI-3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35<br />

94, uo.madison@du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:30. (52 -<br />

140kn). PAULEGBXSW<br />

Pantarul<br />

A popular spot for the locals to frequent, you must try this<br />

delectable restaurant during your visit. They offer delicious<br />

appetizers like spring rolls, quiches or steak tartare. As well,<br />

delightful risottos and homemade pasta dishes are just<br />

a few of the choices for a main course. As an additional<br />

bonus, they’re always adding new and fun meals to the<br />

menu. Tastefully decorated, the friendly staff and warm<br />

environment will leave you with a satisfied experience.<br />

QKralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33 34 86, pantarul@<br />

pantarul.com, www.pantarul.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00,<br />

18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (60 - 130kn). PAGW<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 29


Restaurants<br />

air of serenity even when full. From the main room which<br />

is set deep into the City walls, to the outdoor terraces<br />

which look out over the harbour. Their wine cellar alone<br />

is worth in excess of 1 million Euros, and that alone should<br />

be all you need to know about 360°.QE-2, Sv.Dominika<br />

bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 22, <strong>info</strong>@360<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com,<br />

www.360<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com. Open 19:00 - 23:00. Closed<br />

Mon. (190 - 350kn). PJAGBXW<br />

Taj Mahal<br />

You guessed it, the Old Town’s only Bosnian restaurant,<br />

where you can enjoy good grilled meats including<br />

čevapčići - shish kebab. Try one of the pite pies (we love the<br />

spinach one). Sweet tooths will love baklava, others will fall<br />

into a sugar-induced coma! Also at Iva Vojnovića 14, Hotel<br />

Lero.QC-3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/<br />

(+385-) 098 983 26 20, tajmahaldbk@gmail.com. Open<br />

10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). TA6GBSW<br />

Taverna Otto<br />

This charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent<br />

of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more<br />

admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and<br />

excellent food. We especially recommend the onion soup,<br />

pepper and tuna steaks and chocolate soufflé. But whatever<br />

you choose, you can’t go wrong.QI-2, Nikole Tesle<br />

8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, <strong>info</strong>@tavernaotto.com, www.<br />

tavernaotto.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />

19:00 - 23:00. (80 - 120kn). PAGBXW<br />

Mediterranean<br />

Amfora<br />

While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern<br />

the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of<br />

a distinct Mediterranean feel - very Roman indeed. Prices<br />

here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, either<br />

New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high.<br />

You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you’re based in<br />

or near the Old City then you should not think twice about<br />

jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.<br />

QH-1, Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19. Open<br />

11:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (60 - 130kn). PAG<br />

BXW<br />

Klarisa<br />

Just two years operating in Dubrovnik you could be forgiven<br />

for thinking that they’d always been here. All their<br />

food, as you would expect, is sourced locally, and during<br />

the summer months you’ll be pleased to note that much<br />

of the fish is off-menu, because they can never know what<br />

the boats will bring in - that’s how fresh their fish is. There’s<br />

a tavern attached, so if you’re waiting for a table you can<br />

always grab yourself a cool, tall, glass of pivo.QB-2, Poljana<br />

Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, mladen@<br />

klarisa.hr, www.klarisa-<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com. Open 10:00<br />

- 24:00. (50 - 220kn). PTJA6UIEG<br />

BXSW<br />

30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants<br />

Komarda<br />

A wonderful location by the water’s edge right by the old<br />

part of the city. Komarda has large stone terraces with<br />

plenty of greenery, where you can enjoy the Mediterranean<br />

cooking and a great view of the city walls.QL-2, Frana<br />

Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93, restorankomarda@<br />

gmail.com, www.komarda.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60<br />

- 150kn). ABW<br />

Nautika<br />

The place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking<br />

the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior<br />

- your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative<br />

cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings.<br />

Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik<br />

dining.QA-2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, nautika@<br />

du.t-com.hr, www.nautikarestaurant.com. Open 18:00<br />

- 24:00. (257 - 398kn). PJAGBXW<br />

Panorama<br />

Whichever way you climb Mount Srđ, on foot or by cable<br />

car, we think you deserve a little treat. This restaurant, right<br />

by the top cable car station, has great big windows offering<br />

a spectacular view over Dubrovnik and its coastline.<br />

The food is excellent. Bring your sunglasses!QK,L-1, Srđ<br />

Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091<br />

486 00 47, nautika@du.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00.<br />

(70 - 250kn). PAGBXW<br />

Restaurant Klarisa Archives<br />

Ragusa 2<br />

This charming family-run restaurant located within the<br />

side streets of Dubrovnik has seating available outdoors<br />

under a large canopy on the narrow street or indoors in a<br />

plush and aristocracy-like environment. They offer traditional<br />

mediterranean seafood dishes, such as fresh oysters<br />

and mussels, customary appetizers of pršut and cheese,<br />

and much, much more.QC-2, Zamanjina 12, tel. (+385-<br />

20) 32 16 61, ragusa2rudenjak@gmail.com. Open 08:00<br />

- 24:00. (60 - 190kn). PiAGBXW<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 31


Restaurants<br />

Vapor<br />

The Bellevue Hotel restaurant is perfectly located near<br />

the city centre and commands an amazing view of its<br />

nearby surroundings. Food includes Dalmatian cuisine<br />

with an international twist, this vivacious diversity together<br />

with an excellent wine list is sure to satisfy the<br />

more refined tongue.QI-3, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. (+385-20)<br />

33 08 88, www.alh.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (90 - 250kn).<br />

PAGBXW<br />

Zuzori<br />

This little restaurant is tucked away in one of the narrow<br />

streets of the Old town. The attractive interior is decorated<br />

with a vintage touch in shades of violet. Here they serve<br />

Mediterranean food with a strong Italian accent!QC-3,<br />

Cvjete Zuzorić 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 76, <strong>info</strong>@zuzori.<br />

com, www.zuzori.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (90 - 230kn).<br />

PJAGBXW<br />

Konoba<br />

Bistro Popret<br />

For a delicious traditional Mediterranean meal, don’t miss<br />

out on a visit to Bistro Popret. They serve homemade<br />

pršut, cheese, lamb and octopus, as well as delicious<br />

rožata or strudel for dessert. This relaxing atmosphere is<br />

located in Gornji Brgat, a small village on a hill 5km from<br />

Dubrovnik. It’s an ideal spot for large gatherings and celebrations,<br />

such as a confirmation, first communion or small<br />

wedding party.QPut Hrvatskih branitelja 40, Gornji<br />

Brgat, tel. (+385-) 095 198 92 63. Open 11:00 - 24:00.<br />

Dalmatino<br />

Found within the labyrinth of side streets in the Old City,<br />

this restaurant has added a unique twist to traditional<br />

Dalmatian cuisine. Try some Fisherman’s Stew, Truffle<br />

Pasta or Grilled Calamari with Dalmatian Sauce, from the<br />

appetizing menu, in this warm environment of orange<br />

and brown hues, resembling rustic Tuscany. To satisfy<br />

your palate, there is an extensive list of wines to choose<br />

from to sip along with your meal. For dessert, don’t miss<br />

out on trying the Chocolate Fondant, for a small taste of<br />

heaven.QC-3, Miha Pracata 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70,<br />

<strong>info</strong>@dalmatino-<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com, www.dalmatino<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com.<br />

Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 180kn).<br />

PAGBXW<br />

Jezuite<br />

Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns<br />

and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church.<br />

Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes<br />

or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical<br />

Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels.QC-4, Poljana<br />

Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73,<br />

konobajezuite@gmail.com, <strong>dubrovnik</strong>restaurant.<br />

webs.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn).<br />

JABW<br />

Lokanda Peskarija<br />

Delightfully old-fashioned in a seafaring style, Lokanda,<br />

right on the old Ploče harbour, offers simple fish dishes<br />

at low prices. Don’t miss the fried small fish or the black<br />

squid ink risotto, and be prepared to wait for a table.<br />

QD-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 50, www.meaculpa.hr.<br />

Open 11:00 - 24:00. From July Open 11:00 -<br />

01:00. (70 - 90kn). PAGBXW<br />

Fish Restaurant Archives<br />

Konaovski Dvori Archives<br />

32 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

Pupo<br />

Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of<br />

well-prepared seafood dishes and steaks as well as a ‘walk<br />

on a wok side’ as a good choice for a light lunch. Outdoor<br />

seating immersed in the Old city, local ingredients,<br />

wines and tempting homemade cakes make this value for<br />

money - worth visiting.QC-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-<br />

20) 32 35 55, viktor@pupo<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com, www.<br />

pupo<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 190kn).<br />

JAGBXW<br />

Rozario<br />

On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant<br />

stands out from its neighbours for its family-run<br />

atmosphere and homestyle cooking - that’s why you’ll<br />

often find the locals lunching here.QD-2, Prijeko 1, tel.<br />

(+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 098 89 38 54, 099 315 65 50,<br />

konoba.rozario@gmail.com, www.konoba-rozario.hr.<br />

Open 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 168kn). PiAGBX<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants<br />

Seafood<br />

Barba<br />

Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your<br />

chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for<br />

a unique street food experience. As well, try some fried<br />

oysters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot<br />

for all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit<br />

and relax on a cozy bar stool indoors. QBoškovićeva 5, tel.<br />

(+385-) 091 205 34 88, barba.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@gmail.com.<br />

Open 10:00 - 02:00. (30 - 59kn). PAGW<br />

Kamenice<br />

Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge<br />

portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a<br />

simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr<br />

Gundulić.QC-3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />

36 82. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (58 - 123kn). JABS<br />

Levanat<br />

This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of a<br />

beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so inclined<br />

to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily focused on<br />

Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their specialties are actually<br />

made from scratch, meaning a potential wait of up<br />

to an hour. However the views from the terraced area are<br />

breathtaking and there is an attached café for those simply<br />

looking to kick back and relax.QF-2, Nika i Meda Pucića<br />

15, tel. (+385-20) 43 53 52, restoran.levanat@gmail.com.<br />

Open 11:00 - 23:30. (80 - 160kn). PAGBXW<br />

Orsan<br />

The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation<br />

as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food.<br />

The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty<br />

of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine<br />

traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-<br />

20) 43 68 22, ankora.doo@du.t-com.hr. Open 11:00 -<br />

23:00. (50 - 200kn). PAGBXW<br />

Oyster & Sushi bar Bota<br />

This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and it’s<br />

very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is every bit<br />

as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant staff was<br />

exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful in explaining<br />

the items on the menu. The restaurant itself is entirely<br />

outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a nice view of<br />

the hustle and bustle just below. Ideally suited to a place<br />

for a quick bite, or a relaxing afternoon repast.QD-4, Od<br />

Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr.<br />

Open 09:00 - 23:00. (28 - 135kn). PJAGBXW<br />

Proto<br />

Nautika’s little brother is not only a little cheaper but also<br />

has a wonderful location just off Stradun. Superb food -<br />

mainly seafood, but meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely<br />

romantic ambience and friendly service make this a strong<br />

contender for top dining spot.QC-2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-<br />

20) 32 32 34, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.<br />

hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn). PiAG<br />

BXW<br />

36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants<br />

Japanese<br />

Shizuku Japanese Cuisine<br />

Welcome to an Asian fusion experience in Dubrovnik! Located<br />

in a residential area in Lapad, this restaurant is a little<br />

harder to find. Open only in the evenings, Shizuku serves<br />

only dinner and offers maki rolls, nigiri and sashimi along<br />

with a wide variety of other Japanese dishes. To quench<br />

your thirst, try some Japanese beer or sake. A popular<br />

dining spot, the tables fill up quickly, so make sure to<br />

call ahead for a reservation.QH-2, Kneza Domagoja 1F,<br />

tel. (+385-20) 31 14 93, shizuku.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@hotmail.<br />

com. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (100 - 300kn).<br />

PAGBW<br />

Vegetarian<br />

Nishta<br />

Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small<br />

haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegetarian<br />

cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel,<br />

curry, soups, salad bar and much more. A lot of thought<br />

has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you<br />

arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on<br />

the joke.QC-2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, <strong>info</strong>@<br />

nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com.<br />

Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (63 - 85kn). JAG<br />

BXSW<br />

Breakfast<br />

Bistro Dubrava<br />

Located right on Stradun, overlooking the St. Blaise<br />

Church, this is a great place to grab some early morning<br />

breakfast, as they offer various omelettes, as well as jam<br />

and toast. They also serve a light lunch and dinner, along<br />

with homemade cakes and ice cream for dessert.QC-2,<br />

Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 29. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (40 -<br />

55kn). PAGBXW<br />

Komarda<br />

Get the day off to a good start with a hearty breakfast:<br />

here you can feast on everything from toast and croissants<br />

through rožata (the local crème caramel), to a variety of<br />

scrambled egg dishes, Dalmatian, continental and children’s<br />

breakfasts - all at reasonable prices.QK,L-2, Frana<br />

Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93/(+385-) 098 42 82 39,<br />

restorankomarda@gmail.com, www.komarda.hr. Open<br />

08:00 - 24:00. (12 - 55kn). ABW<br />

Pupica<br />

Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which could<br />

suit almost any European town, city, or village. Their slogan<br />

states that ‘life without breakfast, is like a day without<br />

morning’. So before you get ready to ‘head out’ on your daily<br />

adventure, omelettes, toasts, as well as cakes can only do<br />

you good!QC-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54<br />

54, viktor@pupo<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com, www.pupo<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.<br />

com. Open 07:00 - 24:00.<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 37


Restaurants<br />

Wine bars<br />

D’vino<br />

In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place<br />

for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on<br />

what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of<br />

locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in halfsozzled<br />

conversation on the stone steps outside. Along<br />

with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such<br />

as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a bit<br />

of that for a Dalmatian sensation.QC-2, Palmotićeva 4a,<br />

tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, sasha@dvino.net, www.dvino.<br />

net. Open 10:00 - 02:00. JAGBW<br />

Razonoda Wine Bar<br />

This wine and Croatian tapas bar is one of the newest additions<br />

to the Old Town. They offer the finest Croatian wines,<br />

from the Pelješac region in southern Croatia, to Istra in<br />

the northwest and Slavonia in the northeast. As a snack,<br />

munch on some pršut, cheese or marinated anchovies.<br />

There’s also plenty of unique drink options for all non-wine<br />

lovers to try, such as unpasteurized and unfiltered San Servolo<br />

beer rich in vitamin-B complex, tea made from olive<br />

leaves or Chemex coffee from the world renowned Eliscaffe<br />

in Zagreb.QC-3, Od puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41<br />

04, winebar@thepucicpalace.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00.<br />

PAGW<br />

Light bites<br />

Buffet Škola<br />

A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some<br />

tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and<br />

sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made<br />

with home baked bread.QC-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-<br />

20) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. Open 08:30 - 24:00.<br />

(14 - 30kn). PJNGBW<br />

38 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants<br />

Cavtat<br />

Bugenvila<br />

A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the<br />

waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating<br />

the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give<br />

this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is decided<br />

based on the fresh ingredients available, as they use<br />

only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal homegrown<br />

vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their spectacular<br />

dishes, so the menu is constantly changing. An additional<br />

plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala Ante<br />

Starčevića 9, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 49, bugenvila.<br />

cavtat@gmail.com, www.bugenvila.eu/. Open 12:00 -<br />

16:15, 18:30 - 22:45. (40 - 260kn). TALB<br />

SYMBOL key<br />

Galija<br />

A strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent<br />

steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including<br />

shrimps in honey and sea urchins - have a go, if you think<br />

you’re hard enough! Great terraces and is right on the Cavtat<br />

waterfront.QVuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85<br />

66, mislav.burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. Open<br />

11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn). PAEGBXW<br />

Leut<br />

One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat,<br />

this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this<br />

beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos.<br />

They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and<br />

seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20)<br />

47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, <strong>info</strong>@restaurant-leut.<br />

com, www.restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70<br />

- 250kn). PAGBXW<br />

P Air conditioning<br />

T Child-friendly<br />

B Outside seating<br />

S Take away<br />

W Wifi<br />

A Credit cards accepted<br />

U Facilities for the disabled<br />

L Guarded parking<br />

6 Pet-friendly<br />

J Old town location<br />

Koločep<br />

Villa Ruža<br />

The sunset from the terrace is unforgettable as the Mediterranean<br />

Sea reflects in front of you. Add to that local<br />

Mediterranean specialties served amidst landscaped<br />

stone, olive and pine trees surroundings. Ferry lines from<br />

the Gruž Port or via private transfer.QDonje Čelo bb,<br />

Koločep Island, tel. (+385-20) 75 70 30/(+385-) 098 44<br />

33 82, <strong>info</strong>@villa-ruza.com, www.villa-ruza.com. Open<br />

12:00 - 24:00. (120 - 190kn). ABXW<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 39


Restaurants<br />

Konavle<br />

Konavoska brda<br />

Located within the hills of Konavle, this recently opened<br />

restaurant is the perfect spot for a delicious traditional<br />

meal in a quaint village. Offering meat ispod peke and fish<br />

dishes with baked potatoes and hearty warm homemade<br />

soup, the trip is definitely worth it. The outdoor tables are<br />

arranged in a circle with a hay roof covering, which creates<br />

a rustic feel to the old-fashioned cozy stone atmosphere.<br />

QStravča, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 79 00 03/(+385-) 099<br />

674 57 92, konavoska.brda@gmail.com. Open 12:00 -<br />

23:00. (50 - 90kn). ALBXW<br />

Konavoski dvori<br />

Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta<br />

(“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and<br />

feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout)<br />

served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You<br />

may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.<br />

QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099<br />

251 71 58, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr.<br />

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). ALGBXW<br />

Konavoski komin<br />

Set in the lush rural region of Konavle, the stone terrace<br />

has a fantastic view. Everything is home grown and full of<br />

flavour: try juicy meats cooked under an iron bell heaped<br />

with embers or charcoal grilled fish, a garden salad and<br />

home made apple strudel.QVelji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat,<br />

tel. (+385-20) 47 96 07, smilja.siljug@hotmail.com.<br />

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (45 - 100kn). ALGBXW<br />

Lastovo<br />

Triton<br />

A frequent stop on yachting trips: there’s a mooring<br />

right outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman<br />

Tonči has a very special way with island-grown capers.<br />

Fish carpaccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad,<br />

home made Mediterranean herb rakija - it’s all the stuff of<br />

dreams!QZaklopatica 15, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 11<br />

61/(+385-) 098 177 80 65, <strong>info</strong>@triton.hr, www.triton.<br />

hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). iNGBXW<br />

Mlini<br />

Konoba Marinero<br />

If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa<br />

Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini,<br />

where you’ll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking<br />

the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are<br />

carefully prepared by the lady owner - a supremely relaxing<br />

treat.QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-<br />

20) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com.<br />

hr, www.vivado.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn).<br />

ALGBW<br />

Ston<br />

Bota Šare<br />

Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but the<br />

shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present<br />

stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours.<br />

If you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place<br />

to sample numerous dishes containing cooked little critters.<br />

Excellent.QMali Ston bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44<br />

82/(+385-) 091 175 44 79, botamaliston@gmail.com,<br />

www.bota-sare.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn).<br />

PALGBXW<br />

Vila Koruna<br />

The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives,<br />

cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms<br />

and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art<br />

features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded.<br />

Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel.<br />

(+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, vila-koruna@<br />

du.t-com.hr, www.vila-koruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00.<br />

(60 - 150kn). PJALGBXW<br />

Konaovski Dvori Archives<br />

40 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

Zaton<br />

Orsan Gverović<br />

This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and<br />

has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening<br />

in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival<br />

of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows<br />

at the edge of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton Mali, tel.<br />

(+385-20) 89 12 67, restoran@gverovic-orsan.hr, www.<br />

gverovic-orsan.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (110 - 200kn).<br />

A6LGBXW<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Local Flavour<br />

Local dishes<br />

Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connections<br />

across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very much<br />

based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world. Classic<br />

Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic, olive oil<br />

and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or bay leaf if the<br />

chef is on the adventurous side. A true Mediterranean experience,<br />

you might say.<br />

This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a<br />

double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city’s menus can<br />

seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what you eat<br />

is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local. The simplicity<br />

of the preparation lets the flavours of high quality ingredients<br />

do the work. It’s hard to beat a good piece of meat<br />

or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad freshly picked from a<br />

hinterland garden.<br />

In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imaginative”<br />

cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything but<br />

the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the result<br />

can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as Financial<br />

Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained bitterly in<br />

summer 2012, it’s hard find an authentic bouillabaisse or ratatouille<br />

these days. Peasant food gains elevated status and<br />

loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably plentiful and<br />

full of flavour, and all the better for it.<br />

So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you’d like to escape the<br />

grilled fish – grilled meat – pasta trinity? The best answer is<br />

the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat at<br />

home.<br />

Let’s start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local version<br />

of everyone’s favourite: spaghetti bolognaise. However, with<br />

hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince) and fresh<br />

tomatoes, it becomes something special. You’ll see big vats of<br />

the stuff served on the street at Carnival time in February. But<br />

even on the hottest day, add a crisp green salad and you’ve<br />

the perfect lunch.<br />

A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is pašticada.<br />

There are many variations, but generally a lean piece of beef<br />

is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked bacon and marinated<br />

in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little orange and<br />

lemon. It’s cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes with prunes,<br />

and served with soft gnocci.<br />

A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region is<br />

konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats (pork,<br />

mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens and potato.<br />

When finished, the meat is served on a plate and the<br />

smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the soupy liquid<br />

and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from the 16th century;<br />

for added historical effect substitute barley for potato.<br />

Fast forward to springtime when broad beans are ready for<br />

picking: try them cooked with smoked mutton, garlic, parsley<br />

and bacon fat.<br />

To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion northwards<br />

to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat yourself to<br />

Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters in the<br />

world, prepared in a million different ways. While you’re there,<br />

look out also for butarga (dried flathead mullet roe); there are<br />

a couple of families here who still prepare this rare delicacy.<br />

Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all<br />

kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventurers.<br />

Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an open fire? Eel<br />

cooked in a rich brudet sauce? Frog risotto, perhaps? It’s the<br />

perfect end to a watery day’s safari.<br />

To accompany your traditional-style meal you’ll want a<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 41


Local Flavour<br />

drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it’s easy.<br />

The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most<br />

prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup. Redolent of<br />

the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they’re high in<br />

flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper<br />

younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alternative.<br />

For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the same<br />

thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but it’s pretty<br />

intense so can go with meats as well as fish.<br />

And to finish off, you’ll see rožata on many a menu: it’s the<br />

local version of crème caramel. Not so frequently spotted is<br />

stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think there’s<br />

no better way than to finish your meal than some fragrant<br />

figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a handful of almonds<br />

and a liquer made from oranges, mandarins or rose<br />

petals.<br />

42 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

Pelješac wines<br />

Those who do not know much about Croatia can be forgiven<br />

for not realising that wine is as much a part of life here as it<br />

is Italy, a country which sits on the opposite side of the Adriatic<br />

Sea. In fact, wine has been a part of this region since the<br />

days of the Ancient Greeks, who had settled parts of Dalmatia<br />

in the 5th century BC, including the islands of Hvar, Vis, and<br />

Korčula (birth place to Marco Polo). In time, the Roman Empire<br />

expanded into Dalmatia - then peopled by the Illyrians -<br />

bringing with it more modernised methods of cultivation, and<br />

under Roman rule Dalmatian wine saw itself being exported<br />

to other parts of the Mediterranean, and beyond. Eventually<br />

the Croats would come to live here, and they saw fit to further<br />

expand the region’s wine production. Croatian wines would<br />

be welcome at the Austrian and Hungarian courts, and with<br />

many a farmer relying on his own vines to keep him in wine<br />

then you could be assured that quality levels were kept quite<br />

high.<br />

The country’s history being what it is it’s perhaps not such a<br />

surprise to discover that some of the wineries are not so well<br />

known, even nationally, but it won’t be long before all of that<br />

will change. Here, we’ll look some of the more tempting local<br />

wines.<br />

Plavac Mali, or Little Blue, is a variety of red grape closely related<br />

to Zinfandel and Primitivo. It is grown almost exclusively<br />

on the western side of the island of Hvar and the Pelješac peninsula.<br />

The wine it produces tends towards a deep purple-red<br />

colour, high in tannins, extract, and alcohol. Normally presenting<br />

a rich, dry taste, the better vintages will be more mild and<br />

sweet. Those who know such things recommend that such<br />

reds be enjoyed with red meat dishes, black olives, and salted<br />

anchovies. Dingač is a variety of Plavac Mali and is considered<br />

by many to be the Holy Grail of local wines, and can only be<br />

grown in this region as a result of very specific geographical<br />

conditions. Such is its importance to Dalmatia that in 1961 it<br />

fell under the protection of the Geneva Convention, the first<br />

Croatian wine to do so. It is of a deep ruby red colour, of an<br />

exceptionally unique and luxurious bouquet, a nicely accentuated<br />

aroma, and a harmonious fullness of taste. Dingač was<br />

joined in 1967 by Postup, a top-quality red wine created from<br />

the grapes of the Plavac Mali variety, exclusively from the loca<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Local Flavour<br />

Adriatic Photo Service Archives<br />

tion of Postup, which is on the southern slopes of the Pelješac<br />

peninsula. Postup is a darker red, with a full, harmonious taste<br />

with a touch of crispness.<br />

Now, while it’s true that Dalmatians prefer red wine to white<br />

(the opposite would be the case in Croatia overall), there are<br />

more than a few high quality whites available. Rukatac, however,<br />

is the gleaming jewel in Dalmatia’s crown. An endangered<br />

grape to be sure, it is indigenous to the peninsula. It can<br />

be found from Prevlaka to the Croatian coast, and again on the<br />

islands of Korčula and Lastovo. Wines made from rukatac are<br />

ideal for dessert wines, known as prošek. It is often greenish to<br />

golden colour with an extremely pleasant bouquet. Like most<br />

other whites, this is best while it is still young to drink during<br />

the first or possibly second year.<br />

There are other producers on the peninsula of course, and<br />

it would be remiss to neglect names such as Korta Katarina,<br />

Skaramuča, Madirazza, Matuško, to list but a few. The area’s<br />

wineries are generally inclined towards a wholly welcoming<br />

atmosphere, with Udruga pelješki vinski puti (Association of<br />

Pelješac Wine Trails) and Plavac mali being just two associations<br />

which put considerable effort into ensuring grape quality<br />

and the promotion of the peninsula’s wine growers and<br />

wine trails.<br />

Detailing any one of the many wine trails would take too<br />

much time and too many print inches. Needless to say that<br />

any tourist may put their fate in the hands of a seasoned local<br />

or tour guide and take advice from them - or put the effort in<br />

and plan your own tour of this Croatian exclave. More than a<br />

few tour operators will bring buses and boats onto the peninsula<br />

from Split and Trogir, and if you’re time is flexible enough<br />

then it’s well worth taking the day to get as many wineries and<br />

vineyards in as possible. Make sure you find yourself near Ston,<br />

because you’ll want to sample the oysters as well as the wine.<br />

WINE TRAILS & GASTRO TOURISM<br />

Wine trails, or roads, are an important economic tool for any<br />

region such as the Pelješac peninsula. When you’re not only<br />

removed from the centre of the continent but from your own<br />

country too, you must do all in your power to ensure that your<br />

tourism sector is doing its best to attract - and keep - as many<br />

visitors as possible.<br />

Wine trails are not a new concept as well worn roads emerged<br />

over centuries of use as producers moved their wine to market.<br />

The more worn the road the more popular - it’s reasonable<br />

to assume - the wines which are produced within its vineyards.<br />

Alongside these wine trails a healthy gastro-tourism sector is<br />

developing; after all, you do need to eat if you’re going to be<br />

drinking several glasses of wine over the course of a day. With<br />

Dalmatia offering a variety of local and Mediterranean, you’re<br />

never likely to try the same dish twice even if you’re dining out<br />

each night of a holiday.<br />

Local recipes<br />

Orancini<br />

Peel an orange, preferably unwaxed, organically grown<br />

(you don’t want pesticides on the skin). Cut the peel<br />

into strips about 3-5cm long and 0.5cm wide. Pop the<br />

peel into a dish and cover with water. Leave to stand<br />

for two days. Put the strips and water in a pan, bring<br />

to the boil then drain off the water. Add sugar in an<br />

amount equal to the weight of the orange strips. Stir in<br />

the pan with just a drop of water until the water evaporates.<br />

Again, leave to drain, then roll the strips in sugar.<br />

Leave to dry.<br />

Bruštulane mjendule<br />

Sugared almonds to you and me. Weigh out some almonds,<br />

pop them in a pan with an equal amount of<br />

sugar. For every 50g of almonds add a dessert spoon of<br />

water. Warm the pan on a medium heat, constantly stirring<br />

until all the sugar melts, then solidifies and sticks<br />

to the almonds. Shake onto a plate and leave to cool<br />

before attacking.<br />

Kotonjata<br />

From Dubrovnik in the south, it’s a strongly flavoured<br />

dessert that looks like a jelly. No friends, it’s not a jelly<br />

at all but is instead the wiggly product of a sweet and<br />

bitter fruit called dunja. Wise old grandmas often place<br />

a number of these yellow guys all around the house to<br />

ward off the raunchier stenches that can build up from<br />

time to time.<br />

Mantala<br />

A purple - coloured cake served with sweet black syrup,<br />

almonds and cinnamon.<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 43


Local Flavour<br />

Korta Katarina Archives<br />

THE FOODIE‘S GUIDE<br />

23.06 Tuesday - 18.08 Tuesday<br />

Flavours of Pelješac<br />

If food and wine is right up your alley, then come on down<br />

to the Trpanj waterfront for a culinary delight! Rich local<br />

cuisine that is typically Mediterranean will be presented<br />

and tip top Pelješac wines will help wash the down the<br />

food. This serene fishing town is a tiny oasis and the Dalmatian<br />

music in the background makes for enchanting<br />

evenings.QTrpanj riva.<br />

19.07 Sunday<br />

Korčula Wine Festival - Black Island<br />

White Wines<br />

With a millennia old tradition of wine making, the island<br />

of Korčula is renowned above all for the quality of its white<br />

wines (Pošip and Rukatac), whereas among the reds the<br />

most popular is Plavac Mali. These wines are celebrated<br />

for their exquisite character, complexity, and accentuated<br />

aromas which reflect the Mediterranean sunshine,<br />

scents and tastes. So, to all wine connoisseurs, get ready to<br />

dabble!QKorčula, Korčula Island, www.visitkorcula.eu.<br />

25.07 Saturday<br />

Cipolijada<br />

Fishing for mullets (cipol) is a time-honoured tradition in<br />

the Neretva region. During the summer months, fishermen<br />

patiently sit along the banks of the green and clean<br />

Neretva River and catch this fish which can then be prepared<br />

into a variety of dishes. At the end of the summer a<br />

competition in catching mullets called ‘Cipolijada’ is held.<br />

The competition continues into the night with a “Fishing<br />

Night” of music and dancing, during which time the<br />

fish are prepared, cooked, and eaten.QMetković, www.<br />

tzmetkovic.hr.<br />

44 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

25.07 Saturday - 02.08 Sunday<br />

The 5th Pošip Days in Čara and Smokvica<br />

When wine is fine, nobody minds! And the towns of<br />

Smokvica and Cara on Korčula have a well-known tradition<br />

in wine growing and wine production dating from<br />

ancient Greek times. Pošip is among the most famous<br />

Croatian white wines. It is named after the authentic grape<br />

varieties only found in these areas. So if you happen to be<br />

close by, visit some of the wineries and feel free to partake<br />

in the art of wine tasting.QČara and Smokvica, Korčula<br />

island, www.visitkorcula.eu.<br />

01.08 Saturday<br />

Cabbage on tabak<br />

This traditional gastronomic evening event is held every<br />

summer on the 1st of August at the ‘Pod boriće beach’ in<br />

Vela Luka, next to the ferry port. It was named after an old<br />

proverb which claims that cabbage should be eaten on<br />

that very day. Food consists of cabbage - raštika (collard<br />

greens) and potatoes prepared in a traditional way, cooked<br />

and seasoned with olive oil. Grilled sardines, homemade<br />

cakes and wine are also on the table for all visitors, accompanied<br />

with live music.QPod boriće, Vela Luka.<br />

09.08 Sunday<br />

Makarunada<br />

This is an event in the village of Žrnovo (3km from the<br />

town of Korčula). It begins with a workshop on how to<br />

make ‘makaruni’, a particular home-made pasta native<br />

to the locals, then comes cooking for the masses as the<br />

food is served with a meaty sauce to all those gathered.<br />

Live outdoor entertainment is provided in an authentic<br />

Mediterranean atmosphere!QŽrnovo, Korčula, www.<br />

visitkorcula.eu. Starts at 19:00.<br />

03.09 Thursday - 06.09 Sunday<br />

Kinookus - The Food Film Festival<br />

The art of cinema offers a food frenzy as this international<br />

film festival preserves and promotes issues relating to<br />

healthy food, traditional recipes, food customs, tools, biodiversity,<br />

ecology, nutrition and more. As chefs can serve<br />

up mouth watering dishes, this festival serves up a smorgasbord<br />

of film and motion picture with this year’s theme<br />

being ‘Bread and wine’.QSton, Pelješac, kinookus@<br />

gmail.com, www.kinookus.com.hr.<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


02.10 Friday - 04.10 Sunday<br />

Festival of Jam and Marmalade<br />

Tender to your sweet tooth as you venture to the heart of<br />

the old town, on Stradun in fact and in front of St. Blaise’s<br />

Church. The festival will also serve as a tourist attraction<br />

since exhibitors will come from all Croatian counties and<br />

dressed in their traditional costumes, presenting their native<br />

delicacies, homemade jam and marmalade products.<br />

QSt. Blaise’s Church.<br />

Local Flavour<br />

23.10 Friday - 25.10 Sunday<br />

Good Food Festival<br />

Want to learn how to make the traditional Dubrovnik<br />

sweet ‘gulozece’ or have dinner with a famous chef? For<br />

three days Dubrovnik will be enthralled by pure culinary<br />

delights with events ranging from the presentation of<br />

food specialties of the Dubrovnik region to cooking workshops,<br />

wine tastings, and the promotion of cookbooks in<br />

English, ‘Eat & Walk’, a gastro tour and ‘Sweet Tooth Map’.<br />

QDubrovnik Old Town various locations.<br />

25.10 Sunday<br />

Lumblija Days<br />

Sweet bread called ‘Lumblija’ is certainly one of the more<br />

delicious traditions in Blato. Legend has it that its origins<br />

stem from the time of Napoleon. For the past four years,<br />

just before All Saints Day, a special event called the ‘Lumblija<br />

Days’ is held with an exhibition and competition for<br />

the making and tasting of the best ‘Lumblija’, which involves<br />

a dozen or so families from Blato who prepare this<br />

unique delicacy.QBlato, Island of Korčula.<br />

Become a wine<br />

connoisseur<br />

Dubrovnik - Wine recommendations<br />

A sommelier Jelena’s recommendations of which wines to<br />

tickle your taste buds!<br />

Winemaker Crvik, Konavle: Dubrovnik’s Malvasia TezoroA<br />

white wine, dry, mineral, fruity and full-bodied. A<br />

fantastic white from the Dubrovnik region and thanks to its<br />

rich character, it nicely complements food.<br />

Andro Crvik, winemaker: Pomet Plavac mali selection<br />

A great Plavac and highly recommended. Extremely fruity<br />

on the nose, shades of smoke and prunes emphasised.<br />

Complex, medium to strong in body, beautifully fresh and<br />

soft. Maintains a long lasting finish and has great potential<br />

for aging.<br />

Solana Ston Archives<br />

Dubrovački podrumi, Gruda: Dubrovački podrumi<br />

Plausus<br />

Plausus is a premium wine from Plavac mali, it is of exquisite<br />

elegance and fullness. Recognisable by the variety of aromas.<br />

Intense in flavour, nicely balanced, strong body and a<br />

rich long finish. A wine which demands powerful food. It’s<br />

a top quality indigenous wine and the most important red<br />

grape sort in Croatia.<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 45


Local Flavour<br />

If in the village Vid…<br />

A revelation in the Neretva County is the audaciously<br />

spiced fish stew made of frogs and eels which you can find<br />

at the restaurant named Mate and Đuđe, in Vid. Bring the<br />

mints!<br />

Povitica Cheesecake<br />

A typical cheesecake cake from the Vrbnik region weighing<br />

2kg whole! Here it is all in the process with the freshest<br />

local ingredients used which includes sheep milk cheese<br />

from the Krk Island. This one of a kind dessert can be found<br />

at the restaurant called ‘Nada’ (Vrbnik).<br />

Rab or Lošinj<br />

If you are staying on the islands of Rab or Lošinj then why<br />

not try their ala natural delicacy - dried octopus. You can<br />

even have it with scrambled eggs for breakfast, kid you<br />

not!<br />

Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board Archives<br />

Tips for hungry travellers<br />

Homemade makes for the best flavour of all! In this section,<br />

you will find the pure essence of gastronomy specific<br />

to the region, from age-old recipes prepared during the<br />

era of Kings and noble families to ordinary dishes that the<br />

Nona’s cook best.<br />

Baškotin<br />

A sheer rarity as you head to the Benedictine convent of<br />

St. Margarita on Pag. Tis here that for centuries they’ve<br />

been making baškotin, a kind of hard sweet toast which<br />

is the signature special monastery recipe. At 60kn per kilogramme,<br />

we’ll toast to that!<br />

Benkovačka vara<br />

Looking for some original food from the Zadar region,<br />

then why not try some Benkovac vara during the summer<br />

months. It is chickpeas cooked in water with kidney<br />

beans and sweet corn, very simple and served with olive<br />

oil. One of the places to find it is at the Pet bunara in<br />

Zadar.<br />

Cheese to please!<br />

Devotees to cheese on the fine pallet ought to try<br />

cheese made with sage, or rosemary immortelle as well<br />

as cheese aged in walnut leaves. The Magriž Cheese Factory<br />

is family run in Kornić, on the island of Krk, and can<br />

be found on Ulica 17. travnja 13, where they sell their<br />

products at their very doorstep.<br />

Have you ever eaten dormice?<br />

Roman emperors ate dormice (or puh in Croatian) which<br />

were popular appetisers in their day. The tradition continues<br />

in the tiny village of Dol, on the island of Brač. Konoba<br />

Toni is a tavern where they prepare dormice on a<br />

spit or if you find yourself in Fužine, Gorski Kotar around<br />

September, dormice goulash is the thumbs up.<br />

46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

Show us some mussels<br />

Ok seafood lovers, particularly those who love mussels!<br />

Drive to a place called Poljica, near Marina (the road to<br />

Split) and you can buy mussels per kg in shell farms, and<br />

then roast them on the grill which is finger lickn good!<br />

The island of Ist, ist good!<br />

Learn why Italian boaters often stop at the island of Ist for<br />

an authentic special called majolino!<br />

Try Pipi<br />

When in Split or parts of Dalmatia, look for the gassy fresh<br />

drink Pipi, a bubbly drink that you can only find in these<br />

parts and is mega popular. It is a fuse between Fanta and<br />

Miranda but original to Split. Lots of cafes sell it so bug the<br />

waiters and request a Pipi, it is perfect on a blistering hot<br />

summer day! If you can’t find it, look up Dalmacijavino in<br />

our Shopping category!<br />

Vis or Komiža bread?<br />

A dilemma that’s been debated for centuries is best to be<br />

solved on the island of Vis.<br />

What’s so salty…?<br />

When in Nin, head to the Nin Salt Works which produce<br />

salt that naturally has a higher concentration of iodine because<br />

of special algae that grows in the vicinity of the Nin<br />

Bay. On the topic, when given bread with a few grains of<br />

salt in Croatia, it is a symbol of sincere welcome. Best you<br />

bread up!<br />

What to have for breakfast…<br />

Pujina with sugar of course! Pujina is the whey that is left<br />

after cheese production. It differs from standard cheese<br />

with its ingredients of fat and protein, and is consumed<br />

fresh. Ask around the islands of Pag or Brač on where to<br />

buy fresh pujina for a hearty breakfast.<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Belfast Celtic Bar<br />

‘The Belfast’ is a café situated near Kralj Tomislav, and<br />

while there is a lack of Irish beers it is certainly a welcoming<br />

and relaxing place, in which to enjoy a kava or a small<br />

Žuja during the warm Dubrovnik days. The interior is festooned<br />

with Celtic FC memorabilia, and the fittings and<br />

fixtures are far from clichéd bric-a-brac usually associated<br />

with such places.QG-2, Marka Marulića 21. Open 06:30 -<br />

02:00. P6NBXW<br />

Fashion Café<br />

In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who<br />

know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional<br />

fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner<br />

plates are mandatory.QH-2, Kralja Tomislava 7. Open<br />

06:00 - 02:00. P6NGBXW<br />

Festival<br />

This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local<br />

bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally<br />

and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light<br />

lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be<br />

better.QD-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, stijepo.<br />

sanje@du.t-com.hr. Open 07:30 - 02:00. PAG<br />

BW<br />

Galerie<br />

One of a plethora of little cafes stroke drinking holes in<br />

the side streets leading north from Stradun. This one is<br />

nice enough inside, has a couple of shady tables out, and<br />

plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its youthful clientele.QC-2,<br />

Kunićeva 5. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00<br />

- 02:00. PA6GBXW<br />

Glam Café<br />

If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well<br />

as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies.<br />

In the evening, this is a good place to get the night off<br />

to a good start with one of their range of cocktails.QC-<br />

2, Palmotićeva 5, glamcf44@gmail.com. Open 08:30 -<br />

02:00. PJ6NGBXW<br />

Libertina (Lući)<br />

Cosy, snug, intimate - all words to describe some place<br />

small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café<br />

within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened<br />

specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place<br />

as Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of<br />

the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your<br />

list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don’t be surprised if<br />

you find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though. A thoroughly<br />

enjoyable experience.QD-2, Zlatarska 3, tel.<br />

(+385-20) 32 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 24:00.<br />

6GBXW<br />

Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife<br />

atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night<br />

out on the town. For some fresh air, there’s additional seating<br />

outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.<br />

QUska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07, antuntun_5@<br />

yahoo.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PA6EG<br />

BXW<br />

Špilja Bar More (Cave Bar More)<br />

This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a<br />

little help from the human hand, been transformed into<br />

a delightfully relaxing bar. No music is played here: your<br />

thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by the<br />

sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your<br />

imagination!QF-2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More),<br />

tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, cavebar<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@gmail.com,<br />

www.hotel-more.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. AW<br />

SWEET TREATS<br />

Dolce vita<br />

This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and<br />

ice cream - among the best in town - just off Stradun.<br />

QC-2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66.<br />

Open 09:00 - 24:00. PNB<br />

Pupica<br />

Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of<br />

(slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost<br />

any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas,<br />

coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the wide selection<br />

of homemade cakes and confectionary which<br />

offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the<br />

cafe culture of Croatia.QC-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel.<br />

(+385-) 099 216 54 54, viktor@pupo<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com,<br />

www.pupo<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00.<br />

PiNGBW<br />

Yogomania<br />

This colourful and bright Frozen Yogurt Shop offers<br />

delicious frozen yogurt with numerous toppings to<br />

add, such as cookie or chocolate chunks, rainbow<br />

sprinkles, fruit pieces and many more. You can create<br />

the yogurt cup of your dreams! They also serve<br />

scrumptious crepes and savory smoothies to satisfy<br />

your sweet tooth.QB-2, Čubranovićeva 3, marija.<br />

papak@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. July, August<br />

Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJNGBW<br />

Soul Caffe<br />

This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the<br />

backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back<br />

and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 47


Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife<br />

Bars<br />

Art<br />

Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you’ll discover<br />

a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from oldfashioned<br />

bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha)<br />

washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smoothies<br />

all in one small but perfect package.QK-3, Branitelja<br />

Dubrovnika 25, artcafedbk@gmail.com. Open 09:00 -<br />

02:00. GBXW<br />

Buža<br />

What a place to sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open<br />

sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here<br />

so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the<br />

laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.QD-4,<br />

Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s<br />

tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34, www.cafebuza.com.<br />

Open 08:00 - 02:00 or according to weather conditions.<br />

B<br />

Mirage<br />

On a fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has<br />

great outside seating to rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t<br />

bad either (not that you’ll need it, we hope) and beer and<br />

cocktails are well priced.QC-3, Bunićeva poljana 3. Open<br />

09:00 - 02:00. PNBXW<br />

Onofrio Ice Bar<br />

Brrrr, it’s cold in here! Onofrio Ice Bar is made completely<br />

out of ice- the bar, the seats and even the glasses! Ice statues<br />

of St. Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik, and the famous<br />

Orlando, adorn the small space. Don’t worry about<br />

freezing because they provide you with a jacket to keep<br />

you warm, even during the hot days when you’re looking<br />

for a place to cool off from the sweltering Mediterranean<br />

sun.QPoljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385-) 091 152 02<br />

57. Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJAGBXW<br />

Rock Caffe Exit<br />

Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun,<br />

not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good<br />

acoustics and friendly staff. Altogether a good atmosphere<br />

to start the night out.QC-2, Boškovićeva 2. Open 19:00 -<br />

02:00. Jul - Sep open 19:00 - 03:00. PENXW<br />

Lounge bars<br />

Culto<br />

Escape the scorching summer heat and cool off at Culto!<br />

What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior<br />

and good atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit, it has<br />

a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd.QI-4, Iva Vojnovića<br />

39a. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />

04:00. PABXW<br />

50 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife<br />

Pubs<br />

Arch Pub<br />

As the name says, it is housed under the arch behind the<br />

Cathedral. One of the rare places playing music other than<br />

house and mainstream. This fact and the successful combination<br />

of stone and dark wood make you want to stay<br />

and just keep ordering those Irish beers they keep.QC-4,<br />

Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 30 69 90, archpub@<br />

gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00. PJNBXW<br />

Gaffe Pub<br />

It walks like an Irish Pub, and it talks like an Irish Pub, but<br />

unfortunately, like other hostelries in Dubrovnik’s Old City,<br />

the imported Irish drinks are overpriced when compared<br />

to the capital, but are nevertheless cheaper than most<br />

other local stockists of the ‘black stuff’. We won’t let this<br />

spoil our time here, however, and you’ll be pleased to note<br />

that their food is competitively priced and that it hits the<br />

spot nicely. It pains us to note that the pub is somewhat<br />

misnamed… Gaff, slang for someone’s home, was the<br />

word they meant, so their current name is somewhat of<br />

a, well, gaffe.QC-3, Miha Pracata 4. Open 09:00 - 01:00.<br />

From July Open 09:00 - 02:00. PJ6GBXW<br />

instagram.com/<br />

croatiaiyp<br />

Clubs<br />

Culture Club Revelin<br />

Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used to<br />

protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home<br />

to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often<br />

jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international<br />

music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh<br />

air and its seaside views.QE-1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin),<br />

tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31/(+385-) 098 946 89 61,<br />

cultureclubrevelin@gmail.com, www.clubrevelin.com.<br />

Open 23:00 - 06:00. PAGW<br />

Lazareti<br />

These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house<br />

are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature,<br />

including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international<br />

multimedia festival is held here, which includes<br />

independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and<br />

more. For <strong>info</strong> on programme check their FB.QL-2, Frana<br />

Supila bb, <strong>info</strong>@lazareti.com, www.lazareti.com. Open<br />

Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. From July Open 22:00 - 05:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

facebook.com/<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>inyourpocket<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 51


Sightseeing<br />

Stradun by Boris Kačan<br />

Essential Dubrovnik<br />

Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski<br />

samostan)<br />

The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the<br />

13th century, and with the building of their monastery a<br />

century later, they became an important part of the city’s<br />

defences - the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old<br />

Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful<br />

stone steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades<br />

have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking<br />

up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic<br />

position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside<br />

hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456-<br />

1469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior<br />

of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with<br />

a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.<br />

The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an<br />

important library and collection of art including a painting<br />

of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master<br />

Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in<br />

52 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important<br />

works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac<br />

of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30<br />

and 19:00.QD-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00.<br />

Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30kn.<br />

Lokrum Island<br />

You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of<br />

island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat<br />

cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s<br />

shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets<br />

are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is<br />

perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of<br />

the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by<br />

cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the<br />

monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently<br />

by grateful citizens after being spared from a great<br />

fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian<br />

Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here,<br />

and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 - Lokrum is<br />

now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you<br />

have great views.QL-3, tel. (+385-20) 42 72 42, www.<br />

lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending<br />

on the season, the amount of visitors and weather<br />

therefore we suggest you contact the office for further<br />

<strong>info</strong>rmation. A return ticket costs 80kn per person, for<br />

kids until the age of 15, 20kn.<br />

Stradun, Placa<br />

When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll<br />

often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t<br />

see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the<br />

main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to<br />

the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The<br />

name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With<br />

its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings<br />

that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of<br />

Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with<br />

friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in<br />

the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing<br />

line between the earliest settlement and the parts<br />

of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the<br />

land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek<br />

for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name<br />

Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus<br />

has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the<br />

4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-<br />

Roman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later,<br />

Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel -<br />

this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for<br />

“oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century,<br />

thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated<br />

and began to build the city walls.QB/C-2.<br />

The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha)<br />

Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps<br />

the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting<br />

four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by<br />

local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful<br />

show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368,<br />

but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built<br />

in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli,<br />

who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing<br />

above the entrance to the church, protectively holding<br />

a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s<br />

front steps are the setting for some of the most important<br />

events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve<br />

and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival,<br />

which always used to include a concert by legendary<br />

renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The<br />

Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged<br />

by appointment.QD-3, Luža 3. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00<br />

- 18:00, Sunday 07:00 - 13:00. August open from 07:00 -<br />

24:00. No admission.<br />

The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče<br />

Gates (Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska<br />

vrata Pile, Vrata od Ploča)<br />

Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls<br />

are among the best preserved and most attractive on this<br />

planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The<br />

defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries.<br />

The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick<br />

in places shows their primary purpose as defence against<br />

attack from the mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman<br />

Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The<br />

walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions,<br />

and were never breached - the Republic of Dubrovnik only<br />

fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition<br />

that they would respect its independence. Two further<br />

fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland<br />

just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic<br />

defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the<br />

Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most<br />

atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances<br />

of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket<br />

to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s<br />

well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison,<br />

and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the<br />

best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort,<br />

just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is<br />

one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses<br />

the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the<br />

fortresses, each of which has its own story and character,<br />

the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these<br />

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives<br />

Sightseeing<br />

follow us:<br />

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 53


Sightseeing<br />

Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board Archives<br />

gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges<br />

ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled<br />

with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates<br />

you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qwww.<br />

citywalls<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open Jun/Jul 08:00-19:30 , Aug<br />

08:00-19:00, Sep 08:00-18:30, Oct 08:00-17:30. Admission<br />

30 - 100kn.<br />

The Franciscan Monastery of the<br />

Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy<br />

(Franjevački samostan i stara apoteka<br />

Male braće)<br />

The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is<br />

an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old<br />

frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden<br />

where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous<br />

for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest<br />

one still working. The monastery houses a museum<br />

where you can see original items from the pharmacy,<br />

plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts,<br />

a large collection of musical notations and a treasury<br />

of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers<br />

on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on<br />

a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is<br />

to stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a real man!<br />

Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.<br />

QB-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, mala.braca@du.tcom.hr,<br />

www.malabraca.wix.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00.<br />

Admission 15 - 30kn.<br />

The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor)<br />

One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the<br />

Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the<br />

nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining<br />

him to these quarters which he could only leave on official<br />

occasions and religious holidays. The building changed<br />

its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored<br />

54 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the<br />

renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo<br />

Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations<br />

were added in baroque style in the 17th century following<br />

the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio<br />

della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was<br />

in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly<br />

romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade<br />

with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside,<br />

a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts.<br />

The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you<br />

can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the<br />

Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks,<br />

costumes and domestic objects of the period are<br />

all on display.QD-3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14<br />

97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Unified ticket<br />

costing 80kn for adults and 25kn for students and<br />

pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum,<br />

Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological<br />

exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik<br />

Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle,<br />

Pulitika Gallery.<br />

Churches<br />

Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum<br />

of Sigurata Convent (Samostan i<br />

muzej Sigurata)<br />

To find this pink little baroque confection, you have to enter<br />

what looks like someone’s garden off an intimate side street.<br />

There was probably a church on this spot well before its first<br />

mention in the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established<br />

their convent here in the 13th century, and the adjoining<br />

museum contains household objects they used in order<br />

to support their order (e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical<br />

utensils and artworks, including two wax dolls of the baby<br />

Jesus (Bambino). At one time, every Dubrovnik household<br />

had such a doll, which was especially venerated at Christmas<br />

time.QB-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. Open<br />

on request and by prior arrangement. July - August 31<br />

Open 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission<br />

10 - 15kn.<br />

St Ignatius’ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija)<br />

Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the<br />

southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate<br />

Jesuit church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic<br />

baroque staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps<br />

in Rome (1738). The church itself was built between 1667<br />

and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit<br />

churches of the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome,<br />

the mother church of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the<br />

square in front of the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik<br />

Summer Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down<br />

appearance of the adjoining college, an esteemed place of<br />

education, this is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of<br />

the oldest parts of the city. By the end of September Mass in<br />

English is held on Sundays at 11:00. QC-4, Poljana Ruđera<br />

Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 00. Open 07:00 - 20:00.<br />

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Sightseeing<br />

St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole)<br />

This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was originally<br />

built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for early Middle<br />

Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage was added in<br />

1607. Inside, you can see stone ornaments in an interlocking<br />

style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called pleter, which is<br />

typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine painting of the<br />

Madonna dating back to the 13th century.QD-2, Zlatarska.<br />

St Sebastian’s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana)<br />

This 15th century church was built by the Ploče gate, for<br />

a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint protector against<br />

plague. It lies under the protective wing of the Dominican<br />

monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone steps and balustrade.QD-2,<br />

Sv. Dominika.<br />

Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board Archives<br />

56 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

The Cathedral (Katedrala)<br />

The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies<br />

the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light”<br />

(Jure Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever<br />

way you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more<br />

chapter of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought<br />

that the Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian<br />

architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built<br />

on the site of an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral,<br />

destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667. However,<br />

following another earthquake in 1979, excavations showed<br />

that there had, in fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this<br />

spot since the 7th or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior<br />

is most famous for its collection of treasures, which<br />

includes reliquaries of St Blaise. The golden caskets containing<br />

the saint’s head and foot are thought to be the work of<br />

Byzantine masters of the 11th century. By the main altar is a<br />

painting of the Assumption by Titian which features a selfportrait<br />

of the artist. Mass: 07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00,<br />

18:00.QD-3/4, Držićeva poljana, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59<br />

Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96. Open 09:00 -16:00, Sun<br />

11:30 - 16:00. Treasury admission 15 - 20kn.<br />

Church of St Saviour (Crkva sv. Spasa)<br />

The first church you’ll see on entering the Old City from the<br />

Pile gate is St Saviour’s, with its typical Dalmatian rosette<br />

window on the front. It was built around 1520 by grateful<br />

citizens who were delivered from a terrible earthquake - it<br />

is said that even the city’s aristocratic ladies helped with<br />

carrying wood and stone. It’s often used as a venue for<br />

concerts and recitals.QB-2, Placa bb.<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Serbian Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna<br />

crkva)<br />

Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church was built from 1865 - 1877,<br />

and stands behind impressive wrought iron gates. It houses<br />

a number of icons, mainly Byzantine and Cretan.QC-3,<br />

Od Puča 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 83, spco@du.t-com.hr.<br />

Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Church Admission<br />

free.<br />

Museums<br />

Dubrovnik Natural History Museum<br />

(Prirodoslovni muzej)<br />

The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio<br />

(Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the<br />

Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of<br />

pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection<br />

of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to<br />

everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too,<br />

and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for<br />

hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.QC-<br />

4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88. Open 10:00 -<br />

18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Unified ticket.<br />

Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski<br />

muzej Rupe)<br />

“Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living<br />

rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing<br />

imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a<br />

fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the<br />

economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik.<br />

The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the<br />

region where folk culture is still celebrated.QB-3, Od Rupa<br />

3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 -<br />

16:00. Closed Tue. Unified ticket.<br />

Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej)<br />

Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the<br />

growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s<br />

most important museums. The display of models of the fine<br />

galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales<br />

- they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used<br />

for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž<br />

harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is<br />

housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.<br />

QE-4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-<br />

20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />

Mon. Unified ticket.<br />

a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included<br />

sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence,<br />

seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government,<br />

convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is<br />

best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one<br />

of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace<br />

has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the<br />

playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the<br />

Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB-3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20)<br />

32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu.<br />

Open 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.<br />

The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga<br />

i židovski muzej)<br />

The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after<br />

Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which<br />

could be reached from within the surrounding houses in<br />

what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish<br />

community here was founded at the end of the 15th century<br />

following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The<br />

community flourished and included respected doctors,<br />

merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik<br />

enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions<br />

on their activities at certain points in history. The<br />

Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes<br />

and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum<br />

contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside<br />

<strong>info</strong>rmation on the history of the Jewish community in<br />

Dubrovnik.QD-2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04.<br />

Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 35kn.<br />

DUBROVNIK<br />

Sightseeing<br />

The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina<br />

Držića)<br />

This picturesque gothic town house is the place where<br />

Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one<br />

of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 57


Sightseeing<br />

Photo by Ivana Stanesic<br />

Galleries<br />

Dubrovnik Art Gallery (Umjetnička<br />

galerija Dubrovnik)<br />

This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is<br />

the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern<br />

paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all<br />

important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.<br />

QL-5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, <strong>info</strong>@<br />

ug<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.ug<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open 09:00 -<br />

20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.<br />

Otok Gallery, ARL (Galerija Otok, ARL)<br />

A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret - the former quarantine<br />

houses - which now houses an artists’ community, including<br />

workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of<br />

an excellent standard.QL-5, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20)<br />

32 46 33, arl@du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission<br />

free.<br />

The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald<br />

Brown Memorial House (Galerija<br />

Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/Memorijalna<br />

kuća Ronald Brown)<br />

This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery<br />

with some of the finest views in Europe - the windows<br />

look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside.<br />

The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous<br />

for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid<br />

style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are<br />

58 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented<br />

attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The<br />

building was repaired and renovated by the US Government<br />

and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce<br />

Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to<br />

Dubrovnik.QD-3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20)<br />

32 31 72, <strong>info</strong>@ug<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.ug<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr.<br />

Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.<br />

The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza)<br />

For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings,<br />

with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance<br />

detail, this was always a public building. Directly<br />

facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public<br />

life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs<br />

house - all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was<br />

built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević.<br />

Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space<br />

and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is<br />

dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the<br />

siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission<br />

free). The upper galleries were once the place where<br />

the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building<br />

also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure<br />

trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop<br />

on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic<br />

documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for<br />

research purposes.QD-3, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+385-<br />

20) 32 10 32, dad@dad.hr, www.dad.hr. Open 10:00 -<br />

19:00. Admission 25kn.<br />

War Photo Limited<br />

A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war<br />

by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested<br />

in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if<br />

sometimes disturbing - images.QC-2, Antuninska 6, tel.<br />

(+385-20) 32 21 66, <strong>info</strong>@warphotoltd.com, www.<br />

warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 30 -<br />

40kn.<br />

Landmarks<br />

Boninovo cliffs<br />

It might be considered somewhat morbid that such an<br />

infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist<br />

attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as<br />

a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as<br />

‘popular’ here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards passing<br />

pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now populated<br />

by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to<br />

commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other.<br />

The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spectacular,<br />

and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the<br />

dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from<br />

the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of<br />

reflection and sombre beauty. It’s best appreciated either<br />

at the height of the tourist influx (since they’re all in the<br />

Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down<br />

along the coastline.<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing<br />

Dubrovnik Cable Car<br />

The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over<br />

the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces<br />

equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar,<br />

a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The<br />

lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir<br />

Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be<br />

bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount<br />

Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates<br />

where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other<br />

places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets<br />

are payable in euro.QL-2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel.<br />

(+385-20) 32 53 93, blagajna@excelsa-realestate.com,<br />

www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>cablecar.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00.<br />

Adults 108kn, Children under 12 50kn, Children under<br />

4 free.<br />

Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana)<br />

This square is named after the long-haired chappie<br />

standing in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik<br />

statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard<br />

for literary Croatian which is still accepted today.<br />

The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems<br />

were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the<br />

Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered<br />

by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old<br />

Town’s fruit market in the mornings.QC/D-3.<br />

Onofrio’s Fountains – Great and Small<br />

(Velika i mala Onofrijeva fontana)<br />

One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when<br />

you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio<br />

Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water<br />

taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water<br />

trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers.<br />

The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects<br />

Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built<br />

from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of<br />

the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s<br />

Croatia. Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more<br />

ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the<br />

great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small<br />

fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with<br />

playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other<br />

end of Stradun.QB-2, D-3, Poljana Paska Miličevića,<br />

Pred Dvorom.<br />

Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup)<br />

In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a<br />

carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne<br />

and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and<br />

nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that<br />

date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of<br />

the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing<br />

the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This<br />

spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still<br />

is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where<br />

citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 59


Sightseeing<br />

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives<br />

Revelin Fortress<br />

Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik,<br />

it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions.<br />

The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits<br />

whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a<br />

virtual museum.<br />

The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik<br />

and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone<br />

is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture<br />

in churches was made from stone and this exhibit<br />

presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts<br />

in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These<br />

artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine<br />

order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date<br />

from the 8th and 12th century. The second exhibit<br />

Archaeological research, Spatial Development<br />

and Foundry presents how the very building you<br />

are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and<br />

16th century construction as well as findings such as<br />

ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of<br />

different stone masons and foundry men. Any publicconstruction<br />

in the city at the time was put on halt to<br />

accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential<br />

Venetian danger.<br />

Ascend one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual<br />

Museum with seven huge touch screens allowing<br />

visitors to see archived documents, walk through summer<br />

residences and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral,<br />

flip old coins of the Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and<br />

the ancient fortresses and holiday villas in the region.<br />

Some of these are mostly inaccessible to the public<br />

and are an extremely important part of Dubrovnik’s<br />

heritage.QE-1, dumus.hr/en/. Open 10:00 - 16:00.<br />

Closed Wed. Unified ticket.<br />

60 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used<br />

as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for<br />

trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) - you can<br />

see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom<br />

of the sculpture.QD-2, Pred Dvorom.<br />

Orsula Park<br />

There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all<br />

the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this<br />

phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th century<br />

St Orsula’s Church. There is an amphitheatre here that<br />

seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the sea. It is<br />

a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or a short ride by the<br />

No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Association saved<br />

and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has also gained<br />

a new summer stage for concerts of various domestic<br />

and international musical performers, who will play here<br />

throughout the summer.Qwww.parkorsula.du-hr.net.<br />

The Aquarium (Akvarij)<br />

Housed in the magnificent St John’s fortress (Sveti Ivan),<br />

the Aquarium gives you the chance to get to know the<br />

sea life of the Adriatic without having to eat it. Children<br />

will love it; animal rights activists may be less than impressed.QE-3,<br />

Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20)<br />

32 39 78. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 60kn.<br />

The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik,<br />

Luža zvonara)<br />

Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the<br />

east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two<br />

men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t<br />

up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see<br />

their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door.<br />

Their green colour is a result of their copper composition<br />

rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately<br />

known as zelenci - ‘the green ones’ - or, individually, Maro<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing<br />

and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden<br />

figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower - an<br />

older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt<br />

in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a<br />

master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells<br />

and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist<br />

of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst<br />

centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD-3, Pred<br />

Dvorom.<br />

The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre<br />

(Vijećnica i kazalište Marina Držića)<br />

South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun<br />

begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the<br />

old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing<br />

seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry<br />

dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs<br />

for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city<br />

coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St<br />

Blaise’s Church. Next door are the chambers of the city<br />

council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings<br />

are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine sight<br />

to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered<br />

there on a warm evening.QD-3, Pred Dvorom 1.<br />

Open 9:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00.<br />

The City Harbour (Gradska luka)<br />

Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There<br />

is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by<br />

Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by<br />

the security offered by the island which lay where the<br />

southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the<br />

natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard.<br />

It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade<br />

routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After<br />

the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city<br />

in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with<br />

powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to<br />

establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were<br />

built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče<br />

gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade,<br />

Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime<br />

city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in<br />

the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around<br />

200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry,<br />

and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well<br />

known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of<br />

durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž<br />

harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče<br />

has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking<br />

on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the<br />

local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good<br />

meal.QD/E-2/3.<br />

The Lazaret (Lazareti)<br />

Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone<br />

buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was<br />

the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers<br />

in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually<br />

destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s<br />

lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather<br />

impressive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops<br />

and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for<br />

concerts and DJ parties.QL-5.<br />

Photo by Ivana Stanesic<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 61


Maps & Index<br />

Retail office/Exchange<br />

ATM<br />

62 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Maps Ston Tourist & Board Index<br />

Archives<br />

A. Barca H-2,3<br />

J-2,3<br />

A. Hallera I-2<br />

A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2<br />

A. Kazali H-2<br />

J-2<br />

A. Šenoe H-2<br />

A.G. Matoša I-2<br />

A.T. Mimare K-2<br />

C-4<br />

I-2<br />

Antuninska C-2<br />

Aquarium E-3<br />

Arhiv D-2<br />

Asimon E-1<br />

L-2<br />

Bernarda Shawa K-2<br />

Babin Kuk G-2<br />

Bandureva D-4<br />

Banjska I-3<br />

Batahovina G-1<br />

Batala<br />

H-2/I-2<br />

Biokovska G-2<br />

Bokar A-3<br />

Bokeljska G-1<br />

Boninovo J-3<br />

Bosanka L-2<br />

C-2<br />

Boatska I-2<br />

D-4<br />

Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3<br />

Brdasta J-2<br />

Brgatska L-2<br />

Brsalje A-2<br />

I-2<br />

C-3<br />

Bua D-1<br />

Cavtatska K-2<br />

C-4<br />

C-3<br />

B-2<br />

I-2<br />

G-2<br />

A-1<br />

Dalmatinska H-2<br />

Dante Alighieria J-3<br />

Dinka Ranjine C-3<br />

Dolska H-1<br />

Dr. A. Šercera H-2<br />

I-2<br />

K-2<br />

C-2<br />

Dravna cesta D-8<br />

Dubravkina G-2<br />

Dunavska<br />

G-2,3<br />

Damija C-3<br />

B-2<br />

D-4<br />

I-1<br />

H-2<br />

H-2<br />

F. Prešerna I-2<br />

F. Supila L-2<br />

B-3<br />

G-2<br />

I-2,3<br />

Garište B-2<br />

B-2<br />

Gorica Sv. Vlaha<br />

H-3/I-3<br />

Gornji kono<br />

I,J,K-2<br />

Gradac J-3<br />

D-4<br />

Grbava C-4<br />

Grebenska H-2<br />

Grudska K-2<br />

Gruška obala H-1<br />

C-1<br />

Hladnica H-3<br />

B-3<br />

Hodiljska I-2<br />

Hvarska E-1<br />

J-2<br />

L-2<br />

H-2/I-3<br />

Ilije Sarake D-4<br />

Imotska I-1<br />

B-1<br />

Ispod mira D-4<br />

Ispod Petke G-2<br />

Istarska J-3<br />

G-2<br />

Ivana Zajca<br />

G,H-1<br />

Ivanska G-3<br />

Iza Grada B-1, K-2<br />

H-2<br />

J-2<br />

K-3<br />

C-2<br />

A-1<br />

J. Berse H-2<br />

H-2<br />

Jakljanska H-1<br />

Janjinska H-2<br />

Josipa Kosora I-3<br />

G-1<br />

Kardinala Stepinca F-2<br />

C-3<br />

Kliševska G-2<br />

Kneza Domagoja H-2<br />

Kneza Branimira I-2<br />

Kneza Damjana Jude E-3<br />

Kneza Hrvaša C-4<br />

Kneev dvor D-3<br />

L-2<br />

Komajska H-2<br />

G-1<br />

Konavoska L-2<br />

I-3<br />

Koritska H-1<br />

Kotorska I-3<br />

D-2<br />

Kralja Tomislava H-2<br />

C-2<br />

Kunska I-1<br />

H-1<br />

L. Rogovskog G,H-2<br />

Lapad G-3<br />

Lapadska obala H-2<br />

Lazareti L-2<br />

Lazarina L-2<br />

VIVADO<br />

(arrival ili what to see)<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 63


Maps & Index<br />

Liechtensteinov put<br />

H,I-3<br />

Lokrum L-3<br />

Lokrumska K-2<br />

Lopudska H-1<br />

Lovrijenac K-3<br />

Lovrina L-2<br />

Luka Dubrovnik H-1<br />

Ljubuška H-1<br />

M. Budaka K-2<br />

M. Dizdara I-1<br />

M. Gjaje J-2<br />

M. Gupca K-2<br />

Mala Petka G-3<br />

Mandaljenska G-3<br />

Marka Marojice H-2<br />

Marojice Kaboge C-3<br />

Masarykov put F, G-3<br />

Metohijska I-1<br />

Miha Pracata C-2<br />

B/C-1<br />

Mljetska<br />

H,I-1<br />

Mokoška I-1<br />

Moluntska G-1<br />

Montovjerna I-2<br />

Mosorska G-2<br />

Most Dubrovnik G-1<br />

Mrtvo zvono B-4<br />

I-2<br />

N. Nodila J-2<br />

Na Andriji B-3<br />

Na Mihajlu H-2<br />

Na Ponti D-2<br />

C-2<br />

Napice L-2<br />

Neumska H-1<br />

C-3<br />

Nikole Tesle<br />

H,I-2<br />

Nuncijata H-1<br />

I-2<br />

Obodska K-2<br />

Obuljenska J-2<br />

Od Batale H-2<br />

Od borova H-2<br />

J-2<br />

J-3<br />

Od Domina B-3<br />

Od gaja<br />

I-1,2/J-2<br />

Od Gale<br />

I,J-2<br />

Od Greba udioskih K-2<br />

Od Gradca J-3<br />

Od Hladnice H-3<br />

Od Kaštela B-4<br />

Od Kolorine K-3<br />

Od Margarite C-4<br />

Od maslinate L-2<br />

Od Montovjerne I-2<br />

Od Nuncijate H-1<br />

C-2<br />

C,B-3<br />

Od pustijerne D-4<br />

Od Rupa B-3<br />

Od Sigurate B-2<br />

K-2<br />

Od Sv. Mihajla H-2<br />

Od škara I-1<br />

Od šorte B-3<br />

Od Tabakarije K-3<br />

Oraška G-2<br />

P. Budmani K-2<br />

I-3<br />

P. Krešimira IV L-2<br />

H-2<br />

Padre Perice I-1<br />

C-2<br />

Paska Baburice H-2<br />

C-3<br />

Peline C-1<br />

Pelješka K-2<br />

J-2<br />

Petilovrijenci C-2<br />

G-2<br />

Pile<br />

J,K-3<br />

Pionirska H-1<br />

Placa<br />

C,D-2<br />

Placa – Stradun C-2<br />

Platska J-3<br />

L-2<br />

Plovani skalini C-1<br />

Pobijana D-4<br />

Pobreška H-1<br />

Poljana Mrtvo zvono B-4<br />

64 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Maps & Index<br />

Pomoraca H-1<br />

Pomorski muzej E-4<br />

Porat<br />

E-3<br />

Porporela<br />

E-3,4<br />

Posat E-2<br />

Postranjska I-2<br />

Pred Dvorom D-3<br />

Prelazna B-3<br />

Pridvorska J-2<br />

Prijeko<br />

B-2,3/C-2<br />

Primorska G-2<br />

Privena J-2<br />

Puljizeva B-3<br />

Put od Bosanke L-2<br />

Revelin E-1<br />

Ribarnica D-2<br />

Savska G-3<br />

Sinjska I-2<br />

Slanska G-2<br />

Solinska I-2<br />

Solitudo G-1<br />

Sponza D-2<br />

Srebrenska J-2<br />

Srednji kono K-2<br />

Stayeva E-4<br />

Stonska G-2<br />

Strossmayerova C-3<br />

Stulina D-4<br />

Stradun B-2<br />

L-2<br />

Sustjepanska I-2<br />

Sv. Barbara C-1<br />

A-2/K-3<br />

Sv. Ivan E-3<br />

Sv. Jakov D-1<br />

Sv. Kria H-1<br />

Sv. Lucija C-1<br />

Sv. Luka E-2<br />

Sv. Petar B-4<br />

Sv. Spasitelj E-4<br />

Sv. Stjepan D-4<br />

Sv. Šimuna B-4<br />

Sv. Vid C-1<br />

Sv. Vlaha D-3<br />

Sv. Marije B-3<br />

Sv.Dominika D-2<br />

Sv. Josipa B-3<br />

Sv.Nikole H-1<br />

Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G,H-2<br />

Šibenska G-2<br />

Šipanska H-1<br />

I-2<br />

Široka C-2<br />

Tivatska J-2<br />

Tmušasta C-3<br />

Topolska I-2<br />

Trg oruja E-2<br />

I-2<br />

Trpanjska G-1<br />

Trstenska G-2<br />

U pilama K-3<br />

I-2<br />

Uvala Gru H-1<br />

Uvala Sumartin F-3<br />

Uz Giman H-2<br />

Uz Glavicu H-2<br />

Uz Jezuite<br />

C-3,4<br />

Uz mline K-2<br />

Uz posat B-1<br />

Uz tabor K-2<br />

Vladimira Nazora J-2<br />

Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2<br />

Velebitska G-2<br />

Velika Petka G-3<br />

C-2<br />

Vicina K-2<br />

Viška I-2<br />

Vlaha Paljetka H-1<br />

Vukovarska I-2<br />

Za kapelicom K-2<br />

Za Kamenom E-4<br />

Za Rokom B-3<br />

Za rupama B-3<br />

Zadarska G-2<br />

J,K-2<br />

Zamanjina C-2<br />

Zatonska G-2<br />

B-2<br />

Zlatarska D-2<br />

Zrinsko-Frankopanska<br />

K-2,3<br />

B-3,4<br />

H-1<br />

udioska D-2<br />

uljanska I-2<br />

upska L-2<br />

Retail office/Exchange<br />

ATM<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 65


Retail office/Exchange<br />

ATM


Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />

IMMERSE YOURsELF BY DISCOVERING THIS MAGICAL<br />

REGION, ITS NATURAL BEAUTY, AND ITS RICH CULTURAL AND<br />

AUTOChTHONIC FOOD OFFER<br />

Korčula Tourist Board Archives


North of <strong>dubrovnik</strong><br />

The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continental<br />

areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the<br />

natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno’ which is home to the<br />

oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498.<br />

The Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in<br />

Croatia, is famous for many reasons especially for those associated<br />

with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when<br />

in the area, make sure you don’t miss out on the infamous<br />

Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the<br />

peninsula.<br />

Trsteno<br />

If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik<br />

brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green,<br />

get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at<br />

Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be<br />

delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners<br />

and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer<br />

villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić<br />

in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling<br />

and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded<br />

it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More<br />

than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov<br />

Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.<br />

Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided<br />

by local sea captains who came home from their travels<br />

bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many<br />

people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens.<br />

A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates<br />

- don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone<br />

aqueduct.<br />

East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by<br />

the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the<br />

sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view<br />

encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical<br />

splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part<br />

of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum<br />

- a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably<br />

healthy.<br />

The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden<br />

laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of<br />

paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also<br />

a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and<br />

modern sections, with features typical of the southern<br />

Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland.<br />

Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a<br />

forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has<br />

taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the<br />

beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the<br />

chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.<br />

The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a<br />

fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic<br />

plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a<br />

remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a<br />

stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.<br />

Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />

Pelješac Peninsula<br />

The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the<br />

mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The<br />

first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of<br />

Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the<br />

mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village<br />

restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country.<br />

Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone<br />

walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which<br />

with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look<br />

scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built<br />

by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans<br />

and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called<br />

“little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and<br />

the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for<br />

industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday<br />

with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and<br />

victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.<br />

The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular<br />

conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac<br />

Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village<br />

of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality.<br />

Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong,<br />

and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic<br />

origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but<br />

to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend<br />

you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called<br />

“Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable<br />

and very quaffable.<br />

Konavle Tourist Board Archives<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 69


Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />

On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched<br />

by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by<br />

steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous<br />

for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a<br />

bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers,<br />

especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture<br />

reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and<br />

has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry<br />

connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače<br />

on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.<br />

The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take<br />

time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will<br />

hardly be long enough.<br />

Orebić Tourist Board<br />

QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71<br />

37 18, <strong>info</strong>@visitorebic-croatia.hr, www.visitorebiccroatia.com.<br />

Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open<br />

08:00 - 22:00.<br />

Ston Tourist Board<br />

QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@<br />

du.t-com.hr, www.ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00. October<br />

Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Korčula Tourist Board Archives<br />

70 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

The walls of Ston<br />

In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few manmade<br />

sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century<br />

walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny<br />

stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible<br />

to the public, but after a long period of renovation a<br />

significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the<br />

public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around<br />

the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself,<br />

enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.<br />

The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik<br />

gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac peninsula,<br />

and immediately set about securing it against potential<br />

Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth<br />

the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a<br />

key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the<br />

republic’s fleet on the seas.<br />

Spanning the isthmus that connects the Peljesac peninsula<br />

to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses,<br />

the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving<br />

fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources<br />

reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after<br />

the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim<br />

was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by<br />

PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged<br />

to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed<br />

that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall -<br />

although we didn’t bother investigating any further.<br />

The Walls of Ston<br />

QGundulićeva poljana 2, tel. +385 (0)20 638 800/+385<br />

(0)20 638 801/802, <strong>info</strong>@citywalls<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.<br />

citywalls<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open Jun/Jul 08:00 - 19:30 ; Aug<br />

08:00 - 19:00 ; Sep 08:00 - 18:30 ; Oct 08:00 - 17:30. Tickets<br />

20 - 40kn.<br />

Neretva<br />

If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised<br />

to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you<br />

walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often<br />

ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have<br />

to part with good money for them back home. Obviously,<br />

the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region<br />

these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the<br />

River Neretva.<br />

It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and<br />

impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver<br />

in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms<br />

to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of<br />

backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region<br />

sometimes called Croatia’s California.<br />

As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside<br />

stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits.<br />

It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of<br />

the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting<br />

pretty much everything around here.<br />

The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller<br />

kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although<br />

these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an<br />

annual race (Maraton lađa, August ) which attracts competing<br />

teams from around the world looks set to revive the<br />

picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish<br />

construction which is very attractive but definitely renders<br />

their navigation a challenge!<br />

More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional<br />

dishes of the area are often centered around two<br />

aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made<br />

into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the<br />

popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković,<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


MANOJLOVAČKI SLAP SKRADINSKI BUK MILJACKA SLAP<br />

VISOVAC MANASTIR KRKA BURNUM<br />

<strong>info</strong>@npk.hr • www.np-krka.hr


Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />

Metković Tourist Board Archives<br />

where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris<br />

are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly<br />

storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.<br />

Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from<br />

the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting<br />

freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully<br />

clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is<br />

hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in<br />

the near future.<br />

Metković Tourist Board<br />

QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, <strong>info</strong>@tzmetkovic.hr,<br />

www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,<br />

Sun.<br />

South of <strong>dubrovnik</strong><br />

South of Dubrovnik and following the coastal road you will<br />

find yourself in Župa Dubrovačka, where there are a handful<br />

of bays that have a promenade which passes through<br />

small romantic places such as Srebreno and Mlini.<br />

If you continue further south, you will find yourself in a vortex<br />

of history. The small town of Cavtat will enchant you<br />

with its architecture, nature and charm. Historically known<br />

as Epidaurum, it used to be a key part of Dubrovnik’s history<br />

and development of the city, which the citizens of Cavtat<br />

built respectively.<br />

From Cavtat to the border with Montenegro stretches the<br />

Konavle municipality which was named after the Latin<br />

word ‘canalis’, referring to water channels that used to bring<br />

water from water-wells across Konavle Fields to the ancient<br />

city of Epidaurum (present-day Cavtat).<br />

72 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

Župa Dubrovačka<br />

The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a<br />

broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to<br />

be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are<br />

probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was<br />

given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is<br />

that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday<br />

brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water<br />

mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that<br />

race down the mountainside and emerge right on the<br />

beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be<br />

named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness<br />

of the swimmer in question.<br />

These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being<br />

that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav<br />

army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all<br />

but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal<br />

situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry<br />

lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the<br />

waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation<br />

is presently going on and things will get better.<br />

We highly recommend these resorts for the following<br />

reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)<br />

There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private<br />

apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With<br />

Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great<br />

place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter<br />

environment and clean beaches.<br />

Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll<br />

find necessities such as the tourist <strong>info</strong>rmation centre,<br />

banks, the post office and a large supermarket.<br />

Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever<br />

seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream,<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752<br />

right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel<br />

complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade.<br />

Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board<br />

QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel.<br />

(+385-20) 48 62 54, tz-zupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com.<br />

hr, www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>-riviera.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat<br />

08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 -<br />

19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.<br />

Cavtat<br />

The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town<br />

is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the<br />

campaniles of its churches poke their way into view<br />

above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all - this was<br />

the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants<br />

populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes<br />

the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of<br />

good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants<br />

and a handful of rather lovely small hotels. The promenade<br />

leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a<br />

cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan<br />

Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are<br />

several large hotels which are good choices for families,<br />

with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-inclusive<br />

packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning<br />

yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can<br />

indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba<br />

in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its<br />

traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep.<br />

A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house<br />

(November - April 30 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00,<br />

Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. May - October 31 Open<br />

09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Closed<br />

Mon. Admission 20kn), where one of the best-loved<br />

Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a<br />

child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely<br />

old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring<br />

semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent<br />

owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been<br />

restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition<br />

space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded<br />

by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s<br />

portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An<br />

exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the<br />

work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary<br />

works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood<br />

of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the<br />

back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.<br />

Tourist Board of Konavle<br />

QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, visit.<br />

cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August<br />

Open 08:00 - 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />

The Sivi soko viewpoint<br />

Return home by bragging to friends some of the best<br />

photos you had taken around Dubrovnik. Pick up your<br />

camera and GO GO GO! Jump onto the old road, the<br />

so called ‘Jadranska magistrala’ towards the Čilipi Airport<br />

and exit at the town called Zvekovica, turning left<br />

onto a local road. After 1km, turn left and head up the<br />

Snježnica Hill until you see the sign for Velji Do to the<br />

left. This is your last turn before the main post. A narrow<br />

path will then take you to the ‘lookout’ itself from<br />

which you will have breathtaking views of Dubrovnik,<br />

Konavle, Cavtat and the neighboring islands. From<br />

here it is all yours; capture the photo and those special<br />

moments!<br />

Sokol tower<br />

Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in<br />

World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient<br />

fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it<br />

dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military<br />

purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and<br />

also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze<br />

Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Konavle, www.<br />

citywalls<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Tickets 25 -<br />

40kn.<br />

Konavle<br />

The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with<br />

Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one<br />

of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings<br />

you can witness the traditional songs and dances of Konavle<br />

and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. Kon-<br />

Konavle Embroidery - Croatian Traditional Costumes Facebook Page<br />

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Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />

Agroturizam Laptalo Archives<br />

avle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts,<br />

all with stone villages that would reduce real estate agents<br />

to tears. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional rural restaurants<br />

where you can enjoy delicious home grown food<br />

- locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters<br />

and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to<br />

eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try dishes made<br />

AgrItourism<br />

Agroturizam Laptalo<br />

Not far from Dubrovnik in a village named Gromača<br />

you’ll find this family smallholding. Throughout the<br />

year, if you call ahead, you can visit and enjoy homemade<br />

dishes cooked in the traditional way, and sample<br />

the family’s liqueurs, wines and olive oil. Try the<br />

local sweet specialities arancine (orange), kontonjata<br />

(quince) and mantala (grape, orange, nuts and spices).<br />

QGromača 56, Zaton, tel. (+385-20) 88 11 86/(+385-<br />

) 099 218 36 12, 098 72 51 02, zlaptalo2710@net.hr,<br />

www.laptalo-agro.hr. Open by prior arrangement.<br />

IK<br />

Konoba Vinica - Monković family<br />

Excellent option in the Konavle region south of Cavtat.<br />

If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run the<br />

place may show you their collection of folk costumes<br />

as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese,<br />

roast meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home<br />

made rakija would go down a treat too…QPridvorje,<br />

Ljuta, tel. (+385-20) 79 12 44/(+385-) 099 215 24 59,<br />

monkovic@konobavinica.com, www.konobavinica.<br />

com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 110kn). PALB<br />

with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom.<br />

The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries<br />

the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest<br />

point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village<br />

cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci)<br />

of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and<br />

lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are wellmarked<br />

hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty<br />

meal as part of the deal.<br />

The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is<br />

characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few settlements,<br />

and the only people on the shores are locals looking<br />

for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is a<br />

second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus,<br />

and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical<br />

chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a<br />

quiet fishing village in a pretty cove.<br />

Mills on the river Ljuta<br />

The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to<br />

a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour<br />

mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system,<br />

called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale<br />

came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik.<br />

The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills<br />

were built on a canal network, while some of them were<br />

driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the<br />

western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp<br />

mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was<br />

extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the<br />

Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

74 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Islands<br />

The Elaphite archipelago consists of 13 islands and islets, of<br />

which only three are inhabited. Robinson Crusoe will get<br />

a run for his money here as the nature and culture on the<br />

islands are next to perfection; the peace and tranquillity,<br />

invaluable.<br />

The island sitting high north of the Dubrovnik/Neretva<br />

County is Korčula which is filled with its rich culture, historical<br />

remains and natural surroundings. The town of Korčula<br />

is also known as ‘Little Dubrovnik’ because of the walls that<br />

surround it.<br />

The island of Lastovo is the second most forested island in<br />

the Adriatic earning it the title of a Nature Park.<br />

With a National Park on the western front to a reserve of<br />

natural assets on the eastern front, the island of Mljet is full<br />

of flora and fauna, fascinating history and wild adventure<br />

offers.<br />

The islands in general have a completely different atmosphere<br />

from mainland towns making their way of life all the<br />

more special.<br />

The Elafiti Islands -<br />

Koločep, Lopud and Šipan<br />

These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places<br />

to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep<br />

but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and<br />

Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />

accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just<br />

a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you<br />

want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!<br />

Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them<br />

quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud<br />

just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance<br />

of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built<br />

their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas,<br />

some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud is perhaps<br />

the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden<br />

age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2<br />

of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie<br />

in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your<br />

wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone<br />

balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep<br />

have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children<br />

and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s<br />

Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a<br />

naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if<br />

you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part.<br />

Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports,<br />

Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets<br />

in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip<br />

through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully<br />

grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and<br />

carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the<br />

ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik<br />

bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim<br />

and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 75


Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />

Mljet Tourist Board Archives<br />

restaurants.<br />

Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your<br />

own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really<br />

off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour<br />

operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly<br />

on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing<br />

break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap<br />

of facilities laid on.<br />

76 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

Mljet<br />

Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the<br />

more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry<br />

service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the<br />

Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands.<br />

This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or<br />

discos. One might hope it never will be.<br />

Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this<br />

island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.<br />

Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide<br />

and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or<br />

lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with<br />

131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to<br />

discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five<br />

distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation,<br />

it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.”<br />

Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous<br />

islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise<br />

steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys<br />

sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes<br />

quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With<br />

fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming,<br />

scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction<br />

of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end<br />

of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.<br />

Getting there and around<br />

Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car<br />

ferry and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija ferries.<br />

Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac,<br />

18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are<br />

a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest<br />

and main port of call in the north, however, you can also<br />

access the island from Sobra which is best used to reach<br />

Maranovići and Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pomena<br />

which has daily connections to Dubrovnik (watch out<br />

for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port<br />

where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal<br />

toward the Big Lake.<br />

What to See<br />

Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet). Established<br />

in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses<br />

54 square kilometres at the western end of the<br />

island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty.<br />

Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake),<br />

and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and<br />

Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this<br />

park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect<br />

the native eco-system in the Adriatic.QPristanište 2,<br />

Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, 74 40 58, np-mljet@<br />

np-mljet.hr, turizam@np-mljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr.<br />

Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samostan<br />

Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of<br />

Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart.<br />

Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant<br />

Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high<br />

- built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in<br />

size to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The<br />

road to Pomena slips right between its high walls.<br />

Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the<br />

National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village,<br />

built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living<br />

among charming thick forests and working in agriculture,<br />

fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small<br />

yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the<br />

hotel’s amenities.<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century<br />

when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino<br />

Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines<br />

to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian).<br />

Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically<br />

interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace,<br />

serenity and lush vegetation.<br />

Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located<br />

on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It<br />

offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a number<br />

of private rentals here, too.<br />

Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with<br />

around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative centre<br />

of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road<br />

and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje<br />

is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive<br />

trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the highest hill<br />

on the island.<br />

Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that would<br />

be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home<br />

from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven<br />

years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his<br />

home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and<br />

wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and<br />

the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such<br />

a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave;<br />

come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through<br />

a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.<br />

Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles<br />

who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing getaway.<br />

Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) and the<br />

sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three beautiful<br />

churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St<br />

Martin and the Church of St Rocco.<br />

Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš<br />

family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish<br />

church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older<br />

church and features Gothic architectural elements.<br />

In nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St<br />

Mary of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements,<br />

and demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches.<br />

A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the<br />

front, and a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,” that<br />

is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a distaff’s<br />

end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses<br />

have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own<br />

17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita<br />

is named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that<br />

are used to capture rainwater.<br />

Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />

Korčula<br />

Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is<br />

a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the<br />

clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.<br />

Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic<br />

towns which hits the news from time to time with reports<br />

of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town<br />

properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason<br />

for this - the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky<br />

promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most<br />

romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities<br />

for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through<br />

the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic<br />

details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered<br />

a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden<br />

architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral<br />

of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted<br />

menu of an old brothel near the main entrance.<br />

Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual<br />

morning stroll. All in all, it’s well worth a few days’ stay and is<br />

a perfect place to recharge your batteries.<br />

One of the other most prominent features of the island is<br />

its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with<br />

swords, which you can witness during the summer months<br />

(Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in<br />

June and September, starting at 21:00), heralded by drumbeats<br />

as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes<br />

through prior to the performance.<br />

With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism<br />

and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic<br />

towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season.<br />

Mljet Tourist Board<br />

Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier.QSobra bb, Sobra,<br />

tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, tz-mljet@du.t-com.hr, www.<br />

mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.<br />

Mljet Tourist Board, Polače office<br />

QPolače bb, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 41 86, tz-mljet@<br />

du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />

08:00 - 13:00.<br />

Mljet Tourist Board Archives<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 77


Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />

Lastovo Tourist Board Archives Photo by Stjepan Tafra<br />

But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other<br />

places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island,<br />

the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from<br />

any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village<br />

of Lumbarda where you’ll find picturesque vineyards. You<br />

must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding<br />

area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece<br />

after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village<br />

and feel miles and centuries away from everything else.<br />

Korčula City Museum<br />

QTrg Sv. Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, gm-korcula@<br />

du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 14:00 and by prior arrangement,<br />

Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. July - September<br />

15 Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission<br />

20kn per person, for groups 15kn per person.<br />

Korčula Tourist Board<br />

QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 58 67, <strong>info</strong>@<br />

visitkorcula.eu, www.visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 15:00,<br />

17:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. July, August Open 08:00<br />

- 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. September Open<br />

08:00 - 15:00, Sat 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.<br />

Lastovo<br />

Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes<br />

to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.<br />

Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well<br />

preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so<br />

access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to<br />

do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left<br />

pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched<br />

78 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

ecological paradise.<br />

Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else,<br />

a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a<br />

basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of<br />

pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm<br />

sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those<br />

with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at<br />

a culture so very detached from modern urban life.<br />

Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the<br />

wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s<br />

chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital<br />

aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional<br />

pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from<br />

Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes<br />

centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide<br />

on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at<br />

its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during<br />

summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume,<br />

where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered<br />

braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.<br />

With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore<br />

Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.<br />

Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and<br />

there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few<br />

families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able<br />

to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage<br />

of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love<br />

affair.<br />

Lastovo Tourist Board<br />

QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, tz-lastovo@du.t-com.<br />

hr, www.tz-lastovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Events<br />

04.06 Thursday - 08.10 Thursday<br />

Moreška Sword Dance<br />

A touch of chivalry returns annually to the island of<br />

Korčula with its most famous attraction, the traditional<br />

16th century sword battle dance (Moreška)<br />

which depicts the battle between the Moors<br />

and Christians. The Moreška was common across<br />

Mediterranean countries long ago and Korčula still<br />

proudly holds on to this 400 year old dance that is<br />

both mesmerising and seeks the skilful handling of<br />

swords.QKorčula.<br />

06.06 Saturday - 27.09 Sunday<br />

The Cavtat Summer<br />

Every summer, this marvellous cultural event brings<br />

the beautiful ancient town of Cavtat to life with<br />

an array of musical and dance performances (jazz,<br />

classical, Dalmatian klape and folk groups). The<br />

highlight of the event is the Cavtat Summer Carnival<br />

which takes place on the first weekend in July.<br />

All the events are for free.QCavtat, Main Square.<br />

15.06 Monday - 29.06 Monday<br />

Konavle Art, ‘Word & Music Festival’<br />

With its modest beginnings in 2007 which only<br />

included classical music concerts, the repertoire<br />

these days includes performances in other musical<br />

genres as well as theatre shows, film screenings, art<br />

pop music and exhibitions. Each year the increasing<br />

number of visitors and positive feedback testify<br />

to the large success of this only such festival in the<br />

Konavle area!QVarious locations.<br />

19.06 Friday<br />

Sword Dance Festival<br />

On guard! As this event presents and preserves<br />

a rich heritage of sword dancing on the island<br />

of Korčula. Set in original ambience, several of<br />

Korčula’s sword dance societies called ‘Kumpanjija’<br />

perform a type of chain dance with swords dating<br />

back as early as the 12th century. Come and see<br />

this amazing battle dance that carries the universal<br />

message of good overcoming bad.QKorčula.<br />

26.06 Friday - 04.09 Friday<br />

Kumpanjija and old folklore dances<br />

from Smokvica<br />

Chivalry is back and better than ever on the island<br />

of Korčula. Ever since the 16th century locals would<br />

partake in the Kumpanija and Moštra (chain and<br />

sword dances) which have become a staple of the<br />

island’s heritage and are still performed in several<br />

places. The skills, technique and flair as well as<br />

the costumes worn are quite a sight.QSmall Market,<br />

Smokvica, island of Korčula. Every Friday at<br />

21:00.<br />

Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />

01.07 Wednesday - 31.08 Monday<br />

Summer on the Elaphite Islands<br />

Enchanting Mediterranean melodies and traditional<br />

folklore festivities have been cherished for centuries<br />

on the Elaphite Islands near Dubrovnik, and this<br />

musical and cultural event has for a number of years<br />

been entertaining the visitors. Folklore dancing, Dalmatian<br />

klape and classical concerts are just some of<br />

the things held on the islands of Koločep, Lopud,<br />

Šipan and in Zaton and Orašac.QKoločep, Lopud,<br />

Šipan, Zaton, Orašac.<br />

04.07 Saturday - 05.07 Sunday<br />

Cavtat Summer Carnival<br />

Rio, eat your heart out! Welcome to a carnival atmosphere<br />

that has a 100 year tradition. Be what you<br />

wanna be in the last week of July. Locals and guests<br />

go all out and dress in costume, glitter and glare.<br />

Stages big and small are aplenty with live bands,<br />

street entertainers, jugglers, performers, and folk<br />

and a cappella groups that turn the whole town into<br />

a magical haven.QCavtat, Main Square.<br />

17.07 Friday<br />

Jumping into the Neretva<br />

A ‘Jumping Competition’ that attracts a large number<br />

of viewers is held next to the Lučki Bridge in<br />

Metković. Obstacles the contestants must compete<br />

include, swimming with a rubber ring, rowing in a<br />

large tractor tire, climbing up a rope to reach a piece<br />

of pršut, and jumping from small and large diving<br />

boards. Competitors include children, the young and<br />

the old. Special attention is paid to the ‘craziest jump’<br />

category.QMetković, www.tzmetkovic.hr.<br />

Smokvica Tourist Board Archives<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 79


Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />

25.07 Saturday<br />

Night of Folklore<br />

The wonderful old town of Ston is best known for its<br />

saltworks and especially its famous seven kilometre<br />

long walls made of stone. It is also the host to a traditional<br />

night of folklore dances and songs from all<br />

Croatian regions.QMain Square, Ston, www.ston.hr.<br />

29.07 Wednesday<br />

St. Theodore’s Day<br />

Nothing can hinder the beauty of this grand old tradition<br />

which highlights the influence of Christianity on<br />

the island. Three religious orders still thrive there so a<br />

holy procession is held with particular candles that are<br />

carried and named according to weight ‘Zero, Primo<br />

and others’.<br />

The highlight is the ‘Moreška’, a double sword dance<br />

dating from the 17th century which depicts a spectacular<br />

battle. See the sparks fly as swords clash, a symbol of<br />

the island’s freedom struggle.QKorčula, Main Square.<br />

08.08 Saturday<br />

The Neretva Boat (lađa) Marathon<br />

Be among the 50 000 viewers that attend this spectacle<br />

which promotes the protection of the lađa<br />

Neretva boat, an authentic, traditional vessel which<br />

for centuries was a means of transport. each year, an<br />

amateur rowing competition is held from Metković to<br />

Ploče, 22.5km along the Neretva river. Both towns are<br />

amassed with people and there are parades, concerts,<br />

and plenty of cheer.Qwww.maraton-ladja.hr.<br />

05.09 Saturday - 12.09 Saturday<br />

Korkyra Baroque Festival<br />

Not rock but purely baroque and such music lovers<br />

can choose from concerts with ensembles and solo<br />

artists from the USA, UK, Belgium, Russia, Greece and<br />

Croatia. In addition, there will also be lectures and<br />

other events pertaining to the musical style, come to<br />

think of it; this is a Baroque hot spot!QKorčula and<br />

Lumbarda, www.korkyrabaroque.com.<br />

09.09 Wednesday - 19.09 Saturday<br />

Epidaurus festival<br />

Created eight years ago, and run ever since by the<br />

pianist Ivana Marija Vidović, this festival attracts a<br />

multitude of classical and jazz musicians. Featuring<br />

theatre shows, operas, art exhibits, and a young talent<br />

series in an attractive open air venue.QCavtat,<br />

Konavle, Epidaurus.festival@gmail.com, www.<br />

epidaurusfestival.com.<br />

20.09 Sunday<br />

Ston Wall Marathon<br />

This unique marathon race takes place in the equally<br />

unique location, the Ston Wall, also known as the ‘European<br />

Wall of China’. This massive stoned wall was<br />

built as another line of defence by the Republic of Ragusa<br />

in the 15th century. Take part in a race along the<br />

longest wall in Europe by choosing any route from 4<br />

km, 15 km or 42 km and enjoy some of the most stunning<br />

views at your very own pace.QSton.<br />

Korčula Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Neven Fazinic<br />

80 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Dubrovnik is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural<br />

treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of a<br />

spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited<br />

to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and generally pottering<br />

around.<br />

The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mission<br />

to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit that<br />

watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch a ferry to<br />

an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous<br />

walking trails forge through untouched Mediterranean<br />

landscapes.<br />

Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik region<br />

is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering halfor<br />

full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of Lokrum,<br />

Koločep and Lopud.<br />

Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beautifully<br />

rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik to the<br />

Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office publishes a series<br />

of free mountain biking maps to the region, and guided bike<br />

tours can be booked at travel agents in both Dubrovnik and<br />

Cavtat.<br />

With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal waters<br />

near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or horse<br />

riding in the Konavle, there’s no shortage of variety.<br />

Leisure<br />

Adventure<br />

Adventure Dalmatia<br />

Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Konavle.<br />

More <strong>info</strong>rmation on 091 566 59 42 and 091 526<br />

38 13.QPile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091<br />

526 38 13, <strong>dubrovnik</strong>@adventuredalmatia.com, www.<br />

adventuredalmatia.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.<br />

Dubrovnik Adventures<br />

Excursions from one day to more of the gorgeous Konavle<br />

region! Travel on foot, hire a bike or hmmm gallop a donkey,<br />

you choose. Tours include visits to local wine and olive<br />

oil producers as well as opting to sight-see the Dubrovnik<br />

Walls and kayaking to the island of Lokrum.Qtel. (+385-)<br />

099 667 77 00, <strong>info</strong>@<strong>dubrovnik</strong>adventures.com, www.<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>adventures.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A<br />

Kojan koral<br />

Two hours of horse riding in the Konvale countryside, which<br />

even a total beginner can enjoy: helmets, insurance, and<br />

instructions are provided. They also offer ATV Quad Safaris<br />

across the differing terrain of the Konavle mainland. Intended<br />

for groups of 7 - 14 people, priced 550 - 650kn per person.<br />

QPopovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 098 60 69 29, <strong>info</strong>@<br />

kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and<br />

by prior arrangement.<br />

Big game fishing<br />

Big Game Fishing<br />

Qtel. (+385-) 091 419 14 50/(+385-) 091 419 14 54, www.<br />

biggame<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com. Open by prior arrangement.<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 81


Leisure<br />

Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board Archives<br />

Cycling<br />

Teuta<br />

QTrumbićev put 3, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 97 86/(+385-<br />

) 091 882 57 97, <strong>info</strong>@cavtat.biz, www.cavtat.biz. Open<br />

09:00 - 21:00. 25kn/hour, 100kn/day. A<br />

Scuba Diving<br />

Abyss - Diving & Water-sport Centre<br />

QG-2, Ive Dulčića 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach),<br />

tel. (+385-) 099 256 12 56/(+385-) 098 24 43 49, diving.<br />

hr@gmail.com, www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>diving.com. Open 09:00 -<br />

18:00. Open 09:00 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. A<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

Blue Planet<br />

For <strong>info</strong> out of season call 091 899 09 73.QF-3, Masarykov<br />

put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09<br />

73, <strong>info</strong>@blueplanet-diving.com, www.blueplanet-diving.<br />

com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Open 09:00 - 19:00.<br />

Diving Club Dubrovnik<br />

On Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour.QG/H-1, Solitudo Bay,<br />

tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, rk@du-diver.hr,<br />

www.du-diver.hr. Open by prior arrangement.<br />

Tennis<br />

Dubrovnik Tennis Club<br />

QH-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73<br />

55, teniskiklub<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00.<br />

80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay<br />

100kn.<br />

Dubrovnik's premier boutique spa!<br />

FIND US AT<br />

1st Floor Berkeley Hotel<br />

Andrije Hebranga 116a Dubrovnik<br />

+385 20 494 163<br />

www.spaberkeley.com<br />

•OPI Manicures•<br />

•OPI Pedicures•<br />

•Massages•<br />

•Dermalogica Facials•<br />

•Dermalogica Body Treatments•<br />

•Dermalogica Retail Products•<br />

82 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Bland souvenir shops are gradually taking over Dubrovnik’s<br />

main thoroughfares, and if you really think that a ceramic<br />

mug bearing the word ‘Dubrovnik’ is going to look good in<br />

someone’s kitchen cupboard back home, then you certainly<br />

won’t have too much trouble finding one.<br />

Those with both taste and the time to exercise it will find a<br />

huge range of traditional crafts, sold either by street sellers<br />

or in characterful stores in the narrow alleys of the Old Town.<br />

One of the most authentic local products is jewellery. Jewellery<br />

was an integral part of local folk costume and also<br />

played an important part in local family ritual, with female<br />

children receiving earrings at baptism and at other important<br />

stages in their lives.<br />

It was traditionally around Zlatarska ulica (Goldsmiths’<br />

Street) that the main jewellery workshops were to be found,<br />

although these days they are more randomly scattered<br />

throughout the Old Town. What hasn’t changed is that the<br />

jewellery sold in the filigree shops has often been made on<br />

the premises by local artisans, using traditional folk designs<br />

as inspiration. Especially attractive are traditional earrings<br />

in gold or silver filigree, and large hoop- or drop-earrings<br />

adorned with baubles.<br />

Konavle, the region southeast of Dubrovnik, produces a<br />

distinctive style of embroidery, rich in brightly coloured<br />

geometric shapes. Dazzling white blouses with intricately<br />

embroidered borders were once a standard form of female<br />

attire, and items like these can still be picked up on souvenir<br />

stalls. Konavle embroidery is also used to decorate more<br />

modern items such as tablecloths and handkerchiefs.<br />

Dubrovnik’s souvenir shops also sell a great deal of quality<br />

products that are common to the whole of Croatia, especially<br />

food-and-drink items such as natural honey, olive oil<br />

and herb-flavoured rakijas. One of the best places to pick<br />

up these is the daily outdoor market on Gundulićeva poljana,<br />

although most delicatessens in town also carry a good<br />

selection.<br />

Shopping<br />

Accessories<br />

Art Go’Den<br />

A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand. Your<br />

chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and scarves designed<br />

with Dubrovnik historical or marine motifs or even<br />

the same leather bag that we heard Roger Moore bought<br />

for his wife during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival! Also at<br />

Radisson Blue Resort&Spa, Valamar Lacroma Resort, Rixos<br />

Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel and Valamar Dubrovnik President.<br />

QK-3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik),<br />

tel. (+385-) 099 314 84 11, enter-<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.doo@du.tcom.hr,<br />

www.artgoden.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00<br />

- 21:00. A<br />

Magnolika<br />

Offering shnazzy non-conventional jewellery, funky t-<br />

shirts, bags and other designer gems made authentically<br />

here in Croatia.QB-2, Getaldićeva 7, tel. (+385-) 099 885<br />

69 10, magnolika.art@gmail.com, www.magnolika.<br />

com. Open Tu - Fri 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 ; Sat 10:00<br />

- 13:00 ; Sun & Mon cls. A<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 83


Shopping<br />

Art galleries<br />

AR Atelier 2<br />

A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items<br />

made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle<br />

embroidery.QC-2, Nalješkovićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 17<br />

21Research completed: Feb 25 15, 3.00pm by Eli/(+385-<br />

) 091 201 19 99, antonia.ruskovic@gmail.com, www.<br />

antoniaruskovic.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A<br />

Artur<br />

A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian<br />

art. They also have art workshops during whole year<br />

so if you are interested you know what to do...QB-3,<br />

Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28<br />

53 98, arturgallery@hotmail.com, www.arturgallery.<br />

com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. A<br />

Heritage Gallery & Shop<br />

A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old<br />

Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian<br />

culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose<br />

from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful<br />

items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times<br />

right through to the present.QL-2, Petra Krešimira IV 7,<br />

tel. (+385-) 098 20 91 50, aleksandra@terra-marique.<br />

hr. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00. A<br />

Homa Gallery<br />

A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter<br />

Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress<br />

your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings<br />

is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspiration.QC-2,<br />

Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 834 05 73.<br />

Open 10:00 - 16:00. Open from March. N<br />

Klarisa Gallery<br />

Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house<br />

and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming<br />

gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of<br />

Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there<br />

are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by<br />

young Croatian fashion designers.QC-2, Antuninska 1,<br />

tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44, jelenapacesentovic@yaResearch<br />

completed: Feb 25 15, 3.40pm by Elihoo.com.<br />

Open 12:00 - 21:00. Jul - Nov open 11:00 - 24:00. A<br />

Romana atelier<br />

Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.<br />

QC-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98<br />

98/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, <strong>info</strong>@romana-milutin.com,<br />

www.romana-milutin.com. Open 10:00 - 15:00, 16:00<br />

- 21:00. A<br />

Sv. Luka<br />

See works of Croatian artists inside a pre-Romanesque<br />

church dating back to the 9th century.QC-2, Sv. Dominika<br />

bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 03/(+385-) 098 61 79 37, bkurilic@<br />

globalnet.hr. Open Jul - Oct 10:00 - 22:00. A<br />

84 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

Workshop Be Craft<br />

This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass,<br />

stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the<br />

Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located close to<br />

the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed.<br />

QL-2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46,<br />

du@becraft.eu, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 - 16:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />

chIC & CHEERFUL<br />

Cvijet by Kike<br />

For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion, from<br />

weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower shop will<br />

help you show your loved ones you care with a beautiful<br />

gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of bouquets and<br />

holiday decorations to choose from that will suit any taste.<br />

QG-2, Miljenka Bratoša 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 10 32, www.<br />

cvijetbykike.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />

cigar shop<br />

La Casa del Habano<br />

Wide selection of cigars from Cuba and Dominican Republic.QC-3,<br />

Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 484 91 62,<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@havana-cigar-shop.com, www.camelot.hr.<br />

Open 12:00 - 00:00. A<br />

Delicatessen<br />

Dubrovačka kuća<br />

A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks<br />

to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all<br />

local or Croatian.QD-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />

20 92, lucija.oresic@du.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. A<br />

Franja coffee & teahouse<br />

A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenir-wrapped<br />

delicatessen and porcelain.QC-3, Od Puča<br />

9, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 16, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.<br />

franja.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00. A<br />

Gligora Wine & Cheese Shop<br />

Situated in the city’s harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a large<br />

selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The various<br />

delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family in the<br />

town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag. The Gligora<br />

family has won numerous awards, including the World<br />

Cheese Award, for it’s Dinarski mixed cheese made from cow<br />

and sheep’s milk. Other well-known cheeses they produce<br />

include, Kozlar made from goat’s milk and Paški cheese from<br />

sheep’s milk.QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 13, tel. (+385-20)<br />

32 41 00, <strong>info</strong>@gligora.com, www.gligora.com. Open<br />

07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. AGB<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Shopping<br />

Kraš<br />

The confectionary company Croatians have known and<br />

loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets,<br />

or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC-2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-<br />

20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open Jun/Sep 08:00 - 22:00 ;<br />

Jul - Aug Open 08:00 - 24:00. A<br />

Oleoteka Uje<br />

Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide<br />

range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Brač<br />

and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean<br />

spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles!QC-2, Placa bb, Stradun,<br />

www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00. April 09:00 -<br />

21:00, May 09:00 - 23:00, June - October 09:00 - 00:00,<br />

November 10:00 - 17:00. A<br />

Škar Winery<br />

Ahoy, Mateys! This unique wine and souvenir shop is located<br />

in an old shipyard in the city’s stunning harbour.<br />

The small family-run business started selling it’s homemade<br />

Lekri wines four years ago. The grapes are grown<br />

and picked in their vineyards on Pelješac and brought to<br />

the winery in Dubrovnik where the superb Plavac mali, a<br />

supreme dry red wine and Rukatac, a quality dry white<br />

wine are produced. The Krile family also makes liqueurs<br />

with a diverse assortment of flavors- careb, cherry, lemon<br />

and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made<br />

by local Dubrovnik artists. This extraordinary wine tasting<br />

experience is not to be missed! QH-2, Lapadska obala<br />

17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00<br />

- 22:00.<br />

Vinoteka Miličić<br />

Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top<br />

quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves.QC-2,<br />

Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 77. Open Jun 09:00 -<br />

21:00; Jul - Sep 09:00 - 23:00; Oct 09:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />

09:00 - 12:00. A<br />

DESIGNER CLOTHING<br />

Croatian Designers Room<br />

Is fashion your fetish and forte? Then look no further, this<br />

is the ‘be all end all’ of Croatian mainstream fashion with<br />

great choices of clothes made by the most famous Croatian<br />

designers, all found in the one place.QC-3, Od puča<br />

11. Open Jun/Sep 10:00 - 21:00 ; Jul - Aug 10:00 - 22:00.<br />

A<br />

Maria<br />

If you forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella Mc-<br />

Cartney shoes, or Celine handbag, then Maria is the place<br />

to stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in<br />

equal measure, it’s the kind of shop that makes you feel<br />

glamorous just by looking through the window.QD-2, Sv.<br />

Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30, <strong>info</strong>@mariastore.<br />

hr, www.mariastore.hr. Open Jun/Sep 10:00 - 20:00 ;<br />

Jul - Aug 10:00 - 24:00. A<br />

Modni kantun<br />

A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed<br />

with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most<br />

items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it’s<br />

a little pricey but definitely unique and stylish.QD-2,<br />

Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41. Open 09:00 - 21:00.<br />

A<br />

XD Xenia Design<br />

Designer who make custom clothing suited to your size<br />

and personality.QG-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos<br />

Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17,<br />

<strong>info</strong>@xenia-design.hr, www.xenia-design.hr. Open<br />

through the year 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun<br />

cls. ; Jul - Aug 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun 9:00<br />

- 12:00. A<br />

Jewellery<br />

Clara Stones<br />

Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully<br />

chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious<br />

stones, which may leave some women breathless.<br />

The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department<br />

which shows how a coral branch is worked on and<br />

the different phases of its lifecycle.QC-2, Nalješkovićeva<br />

8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, <strong>info</strong>@clarastones.com, www.<br />

clarastones.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JA<br />

Dubrovnik Treasures<br />

Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of high-quality<br />

jewelry for a great price. Along with authentic and traditional<br />

Croatian jewelry, they also have many pieces made<br />

with a unique or modern design. Each piece of jewelry<br />

is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers, using a<br />

combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as well<br />

as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil.<br />

QB-2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98,<br />

simonafarac@gmail.com, www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>treasures.<br />

com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A<br />

Križek<br />

This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in<br />

1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery<br />

created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a<br />

wide selection of wedding rings.QC-2, Boškovićeva 2,<br />

tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.zlatarna-krizek.hr. Open<br />

09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A<br />

Souvenirs<br />

Baboon<br />

Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts.<br />

QI-2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/<br />

(+385-) 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo.com, www.<br />

suvenirnica-baboon.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 -<br />

20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. W<br />

86 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


DUTY<br />

FREE<br />

SHOP<br />

www.airport-<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr<br />

tel: +385 (20) 773-333<br />

DUTY FREE SHOPPING?<br />

NO PROBLEM!!!<br />

You can fly<br />

with all you buy!


Shopping<br />

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives<br />

Bačan Handmade Products<br />

Here you can go all out ‘folk’ with national costumes,<br />

blouses and table cloths all decorated with Konavle embroidery<br />

on sale.QD-2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 11<br />

21, lena.janjalija@<strong>dubrovnik</strong>portal.com. Open 09:30 -<br />

15:30, 17:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:30 - 15:30. JN<br />

Duty Free Shop<br />

One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free.<br />

The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range<br />

of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is<br />

the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which<br />

will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have<br />

to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international<br />

flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last<br />

designated flight.QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle.<br />

Ivo Biočina - Decorative sculptors workshop<br />

A small sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures,<br />

holy crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik<br />

coat of arms and more. See how this exceptional<br />

combination of stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik motifs.<br />

Truly original!QD-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-) 091<br />

536 40 56. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J<br />

Palma<br />

Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from<br />

100kn.QC-3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel.<br />

(+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Open 09:00<br />

- 16:00.<br />

Tilda<br />

Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings<br />

cards and more.QD-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54,<br />

tilda<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@gmail.com, www.tilda<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com.<br />

Open 09:00 - 22:00. A<br />

Waxing lyrical<br />

Looking for a souvenir for the pyromaniac maritime enthusiast<br />

in your life? How about a wax model of the Karaka (a<br />

type of historic wooden merchant ship made in Dubrovnik)<br />

which doubles as a fully functioning candle? All joking<br />

aside, these models are painstakingly made by Tonći Jonjić,<br />

who researches and creates models of historic Croatian<br />

boats. His wax Karaka won a prize for being among the<br />

best original souvenirs of the Dubrovnik region. If you’re<br />

eager to have it, go to the nearest tourist board or simplly<br />

call 098 939 43 83.Qtel. (+385-) 098 939 43 83, <strong>info</strong>@<br />

vostanibrod.com, www.vostanibrod.com.<br />

Medusa<br />

Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just<br />

the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually<br />

wants. Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including<br />

olive oils, brandies, and sponges from the spongefishing<br />

island of Krapanj.QB/C-2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20)<br />

32 20 04/(+385-) 098 175 17 41, <strong>info</strong>@medusa.hr, www.<br />

medusa.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A<br />

Museum shop<br />

The Rector’s Palace is where guests can acquire some of the<br />

more sophisticated and more exclusive gifts and souvenirs.<br />

QD-3, Pred dvorom 3 (Rector’s Palace), tel. (+385-20) 32<br />

10 39, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. AW<br />

88 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


5 stars<br />

Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik<br />

QK-3, Marijana Blažića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20,<br />

fax (+385-20) 32 02 20, sales.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@hilton.<br />

com, www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hilton.com. 147 rooms<br />

(147 doubles). From €250 per room/per night.<br />

PTJHA6UFLGBKDCwW<br />

hhhhh<br />

Importanne Hotels & Resort<br />

QKardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, fax<br />

(+385-20) 44 02 00, <strong>info</strong>@importanneresort.com,<br />

www.importanneresort.com. 291 rooms (212 doubles<br />

€150 - 300, 79 apartments €190 - 600). PZi<br />

HARUFLGBKDCwW<br />

Kazbek<br />

QH-2, Lapadska obala 25, tel. (+385-20) 36 29<br />

99, fax (+385-20) 36 29 09, <strong>info</strong>@kazbek.hr, www.<br />

kazbek<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com. 13 rooms (12 doubles €139<br />

- 445, 1 suite €226 - 404). PZHA6LGK<br />

DCW hhhhh<br />

Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik<br />

fax (+385-20) 20 00 20, libertas@rixos.com, www.rixos.<br />

com. 254 rooms (237 singles €105 - 255, 237 doubles<br />

€140 - 300, 16 suites €400 - 800, 1 Presidential Suite<br />

€500 - 2000). PZiTHAUFLGB<br />

KDCwW hhhhh<br />

The Pucić Palace<br />

QC-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 62 22, fax (+385-<br />

20) 32 62 23, reception@thepucicpalace.com, www.<br />

thepucicpalace.com. 19 rooms (1 single €230 - 300, 16<br />

doubles €355 - 560, 1 suite €780 - 970, 1 Junior Suite<br />

€560 - 690). PZTJAR6GBKW hh<br />

hhh<br />

SYMBOL key<br />

P Air conditioning<br />

O Casino<br />

T Child-friendly<br />

F Fitness centre<br />

R LAN connection<br />

K Restaurant<br />

D Sauna<br />

I Fireplace<br />

B Outside seating<br />

A Credit cards accepted<br />

H Conference facilities<br />

U Facilities for the disabled<br />

L Guarded parking<br />

6 Pet-friendly<br />

J Old town location<br />

C Swimming pool<br />

W Wifi<br />

Hotels<br />

Valamar Dubrovnik President<br />

QF-1, Iva Dulčića 142, tel. (+385-20) 44 11 00, fax<br />

(+385-20) 43 56 00, reservations@valamar.com, www.<br />

valamar.com. 286 rooms (286 doubles €159 - 438).<br />

PiHARUFLGBKDCwW hh<br />

hhh<br />

4 stars<br />

Lapad<br />

QH-2, Lapadska obala 37, tel. (+385-20) 45 55 55, fax<br />

(+385-20) 45 55 51, sales@hotel-lapad.hr, www.hotellapad.hr.<br />

163 rooms (4 singles €77 - 153, 153 doubles<br />

€110 - 234, 4 suites €190 - 333, 2 Junior Suites €158 -<br />

304). PiHAULGBKCW hhhh<br />

Uvala<br />

QG-3, Masarykov put 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 80, fax<br />

(+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_uvala@hotelimaestral.com,<br />

www.hotelimaestral.com. 51 rooms (45 doubles €76 -<br />

108, 6 triples €61 - 86). Prices are per person per night.<br />

PHAIFLGBKDCwW hhhh<br />

Valamar Argosy<br />

QF-1, Iva Dulčića 140, tel. (+385-20) 44 61 00, fax<br />

(+385-20) 43 55 78, reservations@valamar.com, www.<br />

valamar.com. 308 rooms (308 doubles €99 - 270).<br />

PiTHARUFLEGBKDCwW<br />

hhhh<br />

Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik<br />

QF-2, Iva Dulčića 34, tel. (+385-20) 44 91 00, fax<br />

(+385-20) 44 96 00, reservations@valamar.com, www.<br />

valamar.com. 385 rooms (385 doubles €129 - 311).<br />

PiHARUFLGKDCwW hhhh<br />

3 stars<br />

Aquarius<br />

QG/H-2, Mata Vodopića 4a, tel. (+385-20) 45 61 11, fax<br />

(+385-20) 45 61 00, sales@hotel-aquarius.net, www.<br />

hotel-aquarius.net. 24 rooms (8 singles €85 - 124, 8<br />

doubles €120 - 176, 4 triples €168 - 245, 4 suites €140 -<br />

208). PiAULGBKW hhh<br />

Berkeley<br />

QJ-2, Andrije Hebranga 116a, tel. (+385-20) 49 41 60,<br />

fax (+385-20) 49 41 70, reservations@berkeleyhotel.<br />

hr, www.berkeleyhotel.hr. 24 rooms (22 doubles €80 -<br />

180, 2 apartments €110 - 235). PiALGCW<br />

hhh<br />

Komodor<br />

QG-3, Masarykov put 5, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 00, fax<br />

(+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_komodor@hotelimaestral.<br />

com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 63 rooms (8 singles €40<br />

- 98, 51 doubles €30 - 84, 4 triples €24 - 67). Prices are<br />

per person per night. PHALEBKCW<br />

hhh<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 89


Hotels<br />

Lero<br />

QI-3, Iva Vojnovića 14, tel. (+385-20) 34 13 33, fax (+385-<br />

20) 33 21 23, booking@hotel-lero.hr, www.hotel-lero.hr.<br />

159 rooms (150 doubles €90 - 156, 9 apartments €138<br />

- 248). PiHA6UFLGBKDCwW<br />

hhh<br />

Petka<br />

QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. (+385-20)<br />

41 05 00, fax (+385-20) 41 01 27, <strong>info</strong>@hotelpetka.hr,<br />

www.hotelpetka.hr. 104 rooms (8 singles €84 - 100, 96<br />

doubles €110 - 140). PiHARLGBKW<br />

hhh<br />

Tirena<br />

QF-2, Iva Dulčića 36, tel. (+385-20) 44 51 00, fax (+385-<br />

20) 44 56 02, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.<br />

com. 208 rooms (208 doubles €83 - 215). Pi<br />

HAR6LGBKCW hhh<br />

Valamar Club Dubrovnik<br />

QF-2, Iva Dulčića 38, tel. (+385-20) 44 71 00, fax (+385-<br />

20) 44 76 03, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.<br />

com. 338 rooms (338 doubles €95 - 221). PiTA<br />

R6ULGBKCW hhh<br />

Vis<br />

QG-3, Masarykov put 4, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 55,<br />

fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_vis@hotelimaestral.<br />

com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 142 rooms (9 singles<br />

€40 - 98, 127 doubles €30 - 82, 6 triples €24 - 66).<br />

PALEGBKW hhh<br />

Hostels<br />

facebook.com/<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>inyourpocket<br />

Dubrovnik Youth Hostel<br />

QI-3, Vinka Sagrestana 3 (Bana Josipa Jelačića 15-<br />

17), tel. (+385-20) 42 32 41, fax (+385-20) 41 25 92,<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. 81 dorm beds,<br />

130 - 235kn per person. ARGBKW<br />

Fresh Sheets<br />

QB-4, Svetog Šimuna 15, tel. (+385-) 091 799 20 86,<br />

beds@igotfresh.com, www.freshsheetshostel.com.<br />

16 dorm beds, 18 - 40€ per person. AGW<br />

Vila Micika<br />

QG/H-2, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 32,<br />

fax (+385-20) 43 71 62, <strong>info</strong>@vilamicika.hr, www.<br />

vilamicika.hr. 16 dorm beds, 36 - 52€ per person.<br />

PA6GW<br />

90 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com


Banks & Exchanges<br />

Erste&Steiermarkische Bank<br />

QI-2, Vukovarska 26, tel. (+385-) 072 37 46 85/(+385-)<br />

0800 78 90 free <strong>info</strong>, www.erstebank.hr. Open 08:00 -<br />

18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Hypo-alpe-adria bank<br />

QI-2, Vukovarska 15, tel. (+385-) 072 10 11 02, www.<br />

hypo-alpe-adria.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />

12:00. Closed Sun.<br />

OTP banka<br />

Also at Placa 16 - Stradun, tel. 072 20 13 16.QI-2, Vukovarska<br />

19, tel. (+385-) 072 20 12 00, www.otpbanka.<br />

hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Privredna banka<br />

QI-2, Ante Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 72 00 70,<br />

pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Raiffeisen bank<br />

QI-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 32 05 00, www.rba.<br />

hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun.<br />

Sberbank<br />

QI-2, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 35 89 00, www.<br />

sberbank.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Zagrebačka banka<br />

Also at Gundulićeva Poljana bb, tel. 32 25 52, Open 08:00<br />

- 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.QI-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 45, tel.<br />

(+385-20) 32 25 15, www.zaba.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00,<br />

Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Dry cleaners & Laundries<br />

Amo Wash & Dry<br />

QI-3, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. (+385-20) 33 33 47/(+385-) 099<br />

501 63 02. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 -<br />

15:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Elegant<br />

Dry cleaners.QI-1, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. (+385-)<br />

098 42 86 71/(+385-) 099 760 01 53. Open 08:00 - 19:00,<br />

Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N<br />

Sanja & Rosie’s Laundrette<br />

Retro self-service laundromat. Group drop-off service<br />

available only upon request.QE-1, Put od Bosanke 2<br />

(outside Ploce Gate), tel. (+385-) 091 896 75 09, <strong>info</strong>@<br />

<strong>dubrovnik</strong>laundry.com, www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>laundry.com.<br />

Open 08:00 - 22:00. Washing - 50kn per load (up to<br />

9kg), Drying - 10 kn per 10 minutes (up to 9kg), 25kn<br />

per 30 minutes.<br />

Pets<br />

Bobanović<br />

Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on 098 /<br />

24 39 38.QH-2, Kneza Domagoja 4, Lapad, tel. (+385-20)<br />

35 73 45/(+385-) 098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.t-com.hr.<br />

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A<br />

Fauna<br />

Veterinary clinic. For emergency call 098 191 26 94.QI-2,<br />

Rožat 32, tel. (+385-20) 45 14 66, v.a-fauna@du.t-com.<br />

hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />

A<br />

Pharmacies<br />

Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by<br />

either Kod Zvonika pharmacy or Gruž pharmacy .<br />

Gruž<br />

QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 89<br />

90. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />

A<br />

Kod male braće<br />

QB-2, Placa 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 11. Open 07:00 -<br />

19:30, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A<br />

Kod zvonika<br />

QC-2, Placa 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 33. Open 07:00 -<br />

20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A<br />

Lapad<br />

QG/H-2, M.Vodopića 30, tel. (+385-20) 43 67 78. Open<br />

07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A<br />

Post<br />

If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can<br />

buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re<br />

right value for what you are sending and where.Once you<br />

put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small<br />

yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.<br />

Central Post Office<br />

QI-2, Vukovarska 16, tel. (+385-20) 36 20 68. Open<br />

07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Mljet Tourist Board Archives<br />

Directory<br />

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 91

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