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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
Summer 2015<br />
Trench and Trowel<br />
Croatia’s top ten<br />
archeological attractions<br />
Dubrovnik Homes<br />
Ideal Renaissance villas<br />
explored<br />
N°16 - complimentary copy<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Contents<br />
ESSENTIAL<br />
CIT Y GUIDES<br />
Foreword 6<br />
Bringing to you the wow factor of the summer season<br />
Arrival & Getting Around 7<br />
SOS! Have no fear, IYP is here<br />
City Basics 11<br />
The A-Z of Dubrovnik<br />
Dubrovnik Summer Houses 13<br />
Explore where the aristocratic families lived<br />
Culture & Events 15<br />
Life in the fast lane<br />
Archeological Treasury 21<br />
Ten Croatian archeological destinations<br />
Dubrovnik Pulse 23<br />
When in Dubrovnik, do as Dubrovčani<br />
Restaurants 25<br />
Spicing things up<br />
Local Flavour 39<br />
Treat yourself or be treated<br />
Marinated cuttlefish - grandma’s recipes that have stood the test of time<br />
Coffee & Cakes 45<br />
“How’s that sweet tooth?”<br />
Nightlife 48<br />
Dancing under the starry sky<br />
Sightseeing 50<br />
Discover what we’ve uncovered<br />
Maps & Index<br />
City Centre Map 60<br />
Street Register 61<br />
City Map 62<br />
Dubrovnik county map 65<br />
Dubrovnik Surroundings 66<br />
All in a day<br />
Leisure 79<br />
Treasure some leisure<br />
Shopping 81<br />
Who sells sea shells by the sea shore<br />
Hotels 87<br />
The true meaning of “do not disturb”<br />
Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives<br />
Islets Vrhovnjaci - Island hopping for a day goes a long way...<br />
Directory 89<br />
Services you just may need<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 7
Foreword<br />
Dear traveller, you’ve just arrived to Dubrovnik, a fortified<br />
seaside town that has enough history, legend, and natural<br />
beauty to fully render the above words true. Indeed your<br />
first glimpse of the town, especially when descending<br />
along the airport road where you bypass stoned houses,<br />
terracotta roofs and green pines could be a love at first<br />
sight experience. But we’re here to help your stay be better<br />
than OK!<br />
Our feature summer edition brings with it heaps of things,<br />
places and events for you to see and do. Possible highlights<br />
should include a visit to the Pelješac area and its country<br />
farms which are rich in grapes and wine cellars. We even<br />
have a new wine guide with our very own sommelier’s<br />
fancied red and whites from the area. Our special on Dubrovnik<br />
summer houses ought to leave you spellbound<br />
and for those who come to appreciate a bit of history, there<br />
is a write up on archaeology; you really get to appreciate<br />
the value of a building, monument or statue where they<br />
each have a story to tell. There are loads of events and festivals,<br />
as well as nightclubs for party goers with café culture<br />
part and parcel of life here! The summer beats keep on rolling<br />
and boy o boy do we have some sizzling calendar dates<br />
to put into your diary.<br />
And before you delve into your IYP guide, no matter how<br />
hot or crowded it may get in summer, no matter which Hollywood<br />
star you may happen to come across, don’t forget<br />
that the Dubrovnik is firmly on the UNESCO heritage list<br />
and we hope you go away with some inspiring memories.<br />
Publisher<br />
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb<br />
ISSN 1846-0852<br />
Company Office & Accounts<br />
Višnja Arambašić<br />
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia<br />
Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24<br />
zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.<br />
Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja<br />
Editorial<br />
Editor Višnja Arambašić<br />
Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan<br />
Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Lana Kovačević<br />
Assistant Editor Blanka Valić<br />
Assistant Eli Gajinov<br />
Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić<br />
Design Lovro Boljat<br />
Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated<br />
Cover © Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Sun Gardens Dubrovnik Archives<br />
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević<br />
Support Sales Anita Marinić, Blanka Valić<br />
zagreb@inyourpocket.com<br />
Copyright notice<br />
Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright<br />
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication<br />
may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose<br />
of review, without written permission from the publisher and<br />
copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license<br />
from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel.<br />
(+370-5) 212 29 76).<br />
About IYP<br />
NORTHERN<br />
IRELAND<br />
IRELAND<br />
NETHERLANDS<br />
POLAND<br />
GERMANY<br />
BELGIUM<br />
CZECH<br />
REPUBLIC<br />
ESTONIA<br />
LATVIA<br />
LITHUANIA<br />
BELARUS<br />
AUSTRIA<br />
SWITZERLAND<br />
HUNGARY<br />
SLOVENIA<br />
CROATIA<br />
ROMANIA<br />
ITALY<br />
BOSNIA SERBIA<br />
BULGARIA<br />
MONTENEGRO<br />
FYR MACEDONIA<br />
ALBANIA<br />
GREECE<br />
UKRAINE<br />
RUSSIA<br />
GEORGIA<br />
We have been busy these past couple of<br />
months. Aside from launching a brand-<br />
-new guide in Milan, Italy, we have also<br />
been applying the finishing touches<br />
to our new digital platform at inyourpocket.com.<br />
Radically redesigned and<br />
restructured to place the visitor at the<br />
heart of the cities we cover, our new<br />
website puts you in total control of our<br />
content on whatever desktop, laptop or<br />
mobile device you are using. Give it a<br />
go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward<br />
we have ever taken and entrenches our<br />
position as a game-changing publisher<br />
in all formats.<br />
To keep up with all that’s new at In Your<br />
Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.<br />
com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.<br />
com/inyourpocket).<br />
DUTCH<br />
CARIBBEAN<br />
SOUTH<br />
AFRICA<br />
8 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
ARRIVING by boat<br />
There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour<br />
snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial<br />
port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at<br />
Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town. The port looks<br />
onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels<br />
are located. Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered<br />
1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you<br />
buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver.<br />
Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver<br />
immediately upon boarding.<br />
G&V Line<br />
Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet. Tickets<br />
can be bought in Gruž Harbour from the G&V Line kiosk at<br />
least one hour before departure.QG-1, Vukovarska 36, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 31 31 19, gv-line@gv-line.hr, www.gv-line.hr. 25<br />
- 95kn per person.<br />
Jadrolinija<br />
Jadrolinja ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, between<br />
Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari. Tickets<br />
for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal<br />
line Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online. For<br />
local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance<br />
(maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI-2,<br />
Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83<br />
80, ag.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open<br />
08:00 - 16:30, 19:00 - 22:00; Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 16:30,<br />
19:00 - 20:00; Sun 08:00 - 09:30, 19:00 - 20:00.<br />
Arrival & Getting Around<br />
ARRIVING by bus<br />
The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž<br />
with all its amenities. There are frequent services to almost all<br />
Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for<br />
Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in<br />
Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest<br />
choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb,<br />
check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself<br />
some money and a 14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30<br />
- 21:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for <strong>info</strong>rmation. Changing money:<br />
head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange<br />
offices. Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage:<br />
the cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn for the first<br />
hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on the<br />
platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the<br />
station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or<br />
12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by<br />
the platform, or call 0800 09 70.<br />
Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor)<br />
QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70,<br />
www.libertas<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open 05:30 - 22:30.<br />
ARRIVING by car<br />
For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići),<br />
100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for<br />
Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor<br />
belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or<br />
ID card handy.<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 9
Arrival & Getting Around<br />
Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the<br />
A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads<br />
heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska<br />
Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but<br />
you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo.<br />
When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east<br />
and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy!<br />
ARRIVING by plane<br />
The airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small,<br />
clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus <strong>info</strong>rmation,<br />
exchange offices, and ATMs. A post office and car hire<br />
facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall. Getting to town:<br />
scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into<br />
town (35 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance<br />
to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the<br />
bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the<br />
airport to the town centre (28kn one way), but only run a few<br />
times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn.<br />
Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik)<br />
QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77 33<br />
33, www.airport-<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
European Coastal Airlines<br />
Seaports<br />
Now it’s easier than ever to get from the mainland to the islands<br />
in Croatia. The European Coastal Airlines offer daily hydroplane<br />
transfers from Split, Jelsa (Hvar), Pula and Rab. With these multiple<br />
flight connections throughout the Adriatic, you can even<br />
discover some of the most secluded islands along the coastline.<br />
At this time, the ECA has the following Seaside Airports up and<br />
running:<br />
Seaside Airport Resnik<br />
QPut Divulja 17, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 89 50 10,<br />
resnik@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu.<br />
Seaside Airport Jelsa<br />
QMala Banda bb Jelsa, tel. (+385-21) 76 20 24, jelsa@ec-air.<br />
eu, www.ec-air.eu<br />
Seaside Airport Rab<br />
QIvana Dominisa 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 87, rab@ec-air.<br />
eu, www.ec-air.eu<br />
Seaside Airport Pula<br />
QRiva 1/a, Pula, tel. (+385-52) 64 74 16, pula@ec-air.eu,<br />
www.ec-air.eu<br />
In addition to the above, starting from July, there will be seaside<br />
airport: Split downtown, Lastovo, Vela Luka, Mali Lošinj, Novalja<br />
and Cres. FlyIn Caffe Bar is located at the airports in Resnik,<br />
Rab, Jelsa and Split where they will have a dock. The Outdoor<br />
Sundeck & Lounge Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab,<br />
Split and Jelsa for now, and will soon be opening at the other<br />
locations. Souvenir shops are located at all of the airports. At<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
the souvenir shops you can buy interesting souvenirs featuring<br />
hydroplane designs and useful beach products. Passengers at<br />
the Resnik Seaside Airport, which is located beneath the Split<br />
Airport, have a free shuttle transportation service from the Seaside<br />
Airport to the Split Airport and vice versa (about a 5 minute<br />
drive). Passengers can purchase tickets at any dock at the addresses<br />
mentioned above, as well as in the Split Airport, where<br />
they will also have a ticket office. And, of course, online at www.<br />
ec-air.eu. Working Hours for the Ticket & Check-in Offices, Put<br />
Divulje 7, Kaštel Štafilić: Monday - Friday 08:00 - 16:00, Dr. Franje<br />
Tuđmana Street, Kaštel Štafilić: Open 09:00 - 17:00, Jelsa (Island<br />
of Hvar) Lučice Street Open 07:00-20:00. During the summer<br />
months the Ticket Offices will be open even longer. The flight<br />
schedules can be viewed online at www.ec-air.eu or printed<br />
copies are available at the docks.<br />
Public transport<br />
The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!).<br />
You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect<br />
the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels<br />
on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county,<br />
and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website (sorry, no<br />
English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route<br />
map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news<br />
kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticketstamping<br />
machines immediately upon boarding. Out-of-town<br />
routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example<br />
costs 25kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver.<br />
www.libertas<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr<br />
Arrival & Getting Around<br />
Taxi<br />
The easiest and simplest way to get a cab is to call 020 33 22<br />
22, otherwise you’ll find them on the following ranks: Pile, Main<br />
Coach Station, Gruž Harbour, Ploče, Lapad. No night supplements,<br />
27kn base rate, 9kn per kilometre, 2kn per baggage<br />
item and 150kn per hour for waiting. During your stay in Dubrovnik,<br />
you can download the free app inTAXI on your Android<br />
or iPhone for transportation services.<br />
Car rental<br />
Avis - Budget<br />
QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19,<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.apt@avis.hr, www.avis.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
A<br />
Dollar&Thrifty<br />
QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/<br />
(+385-) 098 42 49 03, apt.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@subrosa.hr, www.<br />
carrentalsubrosa.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Hertz<br />
Also at the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15<br />
68, 091 / 425 11 11.QL-2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50<br />
00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01, <strong>dubrovnik</strong>.dt@hertz.hr, www.<br />
hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun on request.<br />
A<br />
snorkelling<br />
big game fishing<br />
The best way to enjoy<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
private excursions-transfers<br />
fishing excursions<br />
www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>boatcharter.com<br />
contact:<br />
0993332829<br />
0914191452<br />
fishing<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 11
Arrival & Getting Around<br />
Paraiso Mediterraneo<br />
From excursions to tours and accommodation, transfers to<br />
car rentals and yacht services, assistance and local guides<br />
in your native language.Qtel. (+385-1) 799 98 40, <strong>info</strong>@<br />
paraisomediterraneo.com, www.paraisomediterraneo.<br />
com. A<br />
Vivado<br />
Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer,<br />
tourist <strong>info</strong>rmation...QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 48 64 71/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@<br />
du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. N<br />
Tourist Information<br />
Centres<br />
The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the<br />
official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik. All the<br />
<strong>info</strong>rmation and materials made available are free and<br />
you are more than welcome to visit them.<br />
Parking<br />
Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking,<br />
and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for<br />
hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head<br />
for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2),<br />
well-placed for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles<br />
passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, although<br />
with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you<br />
might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 40kn per hour depending on<br />
which zone you’re in, and the season.<br />
Travel agencies<br />
Dubrovnik Travel<br />
Excursions and cruises can be yours!QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića<br />
25, tel. (+385-20) 31 35 55, croatia@dt-croatia.com, www.dtcroatia.com.<br />
Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Elite<br />
Everything from horseriding to sailing in a fabulous 16th century<br />
galleon.QI-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 35 82 00, elite@<br />
elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
A<br />
Gulliver travel<br />
Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... Also at G-2,<br />
Babin Kuk, Mali Stradun, tel. 091 603 51 23. April - October 31<br />
Open 08:00 - 21:00. QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 41 08 88, gulliver@gulliver.hr, www.gulliver.hr. Open<br />
08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
Gruž<br />
QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.<br />
tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
Lapad<br />
QH-2, Šetalište kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 43 74 60, ured.lapad@tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.<br />
tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Lopud<br />
QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 75 90 86,<br />
ured.lopud@tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr.<br />
Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Fri. July,<br />
August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 13:00,<br />
18:00 - 20:00.<br />
Pile<br />
QC-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured.pile@<br />
tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open 08:00<br />
- 21:00.<br />
Šipan<br />
QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84,<br />
ured.sipan@tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr.<br />
Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. July,<br />
August Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Closed<br />
Tue.<br />
Zaton<br />
QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, ured.<br />
zaton@tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.tz<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
City Basics<br />
Customs<br />
As Croatia entered the EU on July 1,2013 there are no longer<br />
custom limits between member states or tax return. For other<br />
non-member states we recommend you to follow <strong>info</strong> at<br />
www.porezna-uprava.hr.<br />
Disabled travellers<br />
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape<br />
and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a<br />
loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have<br />
parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room<br />
adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable<br />
access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying<br />
that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the<br />
streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning<br />
to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in<br />
relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to<br />
organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.<br />
Electricity<br />
The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United<br />
States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.<br />
Money<br />
There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well<br />
as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day.<br />
Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so<br />
be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re<br />
planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should<br />
definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think<br />
you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on<br />
plastic could be a problem.<br />
Roads<br />
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving<br />
licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard<br />
laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no<br />
mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for<br />
drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is<br />
50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary<br />
roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner,<br />
drive slower, live longer.<br />
We connect<br />
Croatia<br />
European Coastal Airlines redefines<br />
your journey in the air by providing<br />
fast daily scheduled connections to<br />
the most magnificent islands in the<br />
Adriatic. You are invited to explore<br />
stunning coastlines and the beautifully<br />
preserved centuries old harbour towns<br />
Croatia has to offer from an entirely<br />
new perspective. Whether traveling for<br />
business or pleasure, ECA will provide<br />
an experience worth remembering.<br />
www.ec-air.eu<br />
Smoking<br />
Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture<br />
in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean<br />
that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are<br />
more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes<br />
the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden<br />
in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants<br />
where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the<br />
most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 13
City Basics<br />
When things go wrong<br />
Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik<br />
significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you<br />
should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case<br />
of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide<br />
Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police,<br />
ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district,<br />
in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested,<br />
you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case,<br />
contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for<br />
ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb (H-3)<br />
where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car<br />
accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for<br />
accidents on the sea call 195.<br />
Toilets<br />
There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which will<br />
cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče, and one is<br />
at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 07:00 - 23:00, Peskarija<br />
07:00 - 02:00.<br />
follow us:<br />
TAXI<br />
(arrival)<br />
Visas<br />
Since Croatia had become the newest member of the European<br />
Union on July 1, 2013, Croatian Visa Policies have since<br />
become fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy<br />
and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens<br />
of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries<br />
also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting<br />
Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective<br />
country of origin. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and<br />
wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend<br />
you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border<br />
crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the<br />
border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able<br />
to enter Croatia.<br />
Water<br />
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.<br />
Tipping<br />
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about<br />
tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and<br />
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a<br />
bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round<br />
their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to<br />
tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy<br />
thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?<br />
National Holidays<br />
January 1<br />
New Year’s Day<br />
January 6<br />
Epiphany<br />
April 5<br />
Easter<br />
April 6<br />
Easter Monday<br />
May 1<br />
International Workers’ Day<br />
June 4<br />
Corpus Christi<br />
June 22<br />
Anti-Fascist Resistance Day<br />
June 25<br />
Statehood Day<br />
August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day<br />
August 15<br />
Feast of the Assumption<br />
October 8<br />
Independence Day<br />
November 1<br />
All Saints’ Day<br />
December 25<br />
Christmas<br />
December 26<br />
Saint Stephen’s Day<br />
14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Dubrovnik Summer Houses<br />
Discover the story<br />
of <strong>dubrovnik</strong> summer<br />
houses<br />
with Jonathan Bousfield<br />
One of the things that most visitors to Dubrovnik<br />
learn sooner or later is that the former city-state was<br />
a republic of nobles in which most power resided in a<br />
tightly-knit group of aristocratic families. But where did<br />
these aristocratic families live? Where are their palaces?<br />
The Old Town is full of narrow streets and tall, spacechallenged<br />
houses, leaving very little visual evidence of<br />
the city’s aristocratic past. Although there is plenty of fine<br />
architecture within the city walls, especially when it comes<br />
to the former city-states’ governmental buildings (the<br />
Sponza Palace, for example, or Knežev dvor), family homes<br />
tend to be hidden behind plain stone facades – private<br />
grandeur was rarely put on public display.<br />
However an aristocratic villa culture did exist outside the<br />
city walls, where Renaissance houses with walled gardens<br />
are still a prominent feature of the Dubrovnik landscape.<br />
Some of these villas remain in private hands, some are<br />
owned by institutions, and quite a few languish uninhabited,<br />
the potential targets of some ultra-expensive future<br />
renovation project. Very few indeed are accessible to the<br />
Neptune’s fountain from the Gučetić’s family summer house garden in Trsteno<br />
public, rendering Dubrovnik’s villa culture an enduringly<br />
secretive, semi-hidden world.<br />
The one villa that appears in all the guidebooks is the<br />
Gučetić villa at Trsteno, 13km up the coast, where the<br />
Croatian Academy of Science’s Arboretum draws busloads<br />
of visitors. It’s an undeniably lovely place and is well worth<br />
visiting for a multitude of reasons, but neither house nor<br />
garden has preserved its original appearance.<br />
The museum of the Renaissance villa is, it seems, the one<br />
obligatory Dubrovnik heritage attraction that is still waiting<br />
to be invented.<br />
Indeed this villa culture is just as important to the city’s heritage<br />
as its medieval walls or its monastery cloisters. It was<br />
in the fourteenth century that Dubrovnik’s wealthier families<br />
first started building second homes outside the city<br />
walls. The number of these increased enormously in the<br />
sixteenth century, when it became the standard aspiration<br />
of noble families – and the wealthier non-noble families –<br />
to have a place outside the city.<br />
It’s difficult to agree on a general English name for these<br />
villas – literal translations of the Croatian terms ljetnikovac<br />
(summer house) or ladanjska kuća (country house) don’t<br />
quite convey how important these residences were to the<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 15
Dubrovnik Summer Houses<br />
life of the city. They were used all year round, and very often<br />
became the centre of a family’s social life rather than<br />
a place of quiet retreat. These second homes were rarely<br />
showy or palatial – outward extravagance was considered<br />
bad form among Dubrovnik nobles – but they did offer<br />
both the luxury of space, and access to the outdoors. They<br />
were frequently located near to the family’s fruit orchards,<br />
vineyards and olive groves, so had an economic role as well<br />
as a purely relaxational one.<br />
There were certain conventions governing the shape of<br />
these villas. They usually took an L-shaped form, with a<br />
main building comprising central hall surrounded by four<br />
rooms, and an annex leading down the a waterfront boat<br />
house. Within the villa’s walls would be a garden divided up<br />
into box-hedge quadrants, with pergolas to enable shaded<br />
strolling, and possibly a fishpond connected by a small<br />
channel to the seafront outside.<br />
The sixteenth-century explosion of second homes led to<br />
changes in lifestyle and culture. It was at these villas that<br />
people would meet to talk about the latest developments<br />
in business affairs or the arts, or attend parties at which<br />
music or plays would be performed. The villas themselves<br />
were frequently decorated with artworks and surrounded<br />
by gardens, which only served to enhance their cultural<br />
symbolism. Indeed it would not be unfair to say that Dubrovnik’s<br />
cultural and scientific life took place in the villas<br />
outside the walls rather than inside the city itself.<br />
According to leading expert on villa architecture Nada<br />
Grujić, the whole experience of the Renaissance in this part<br />
of Croatia was shaped by the villa lifestyle. “Thanks to these<br />
villas a particular form of socializing occurs, in mutual conversations<br />
and debates”, she wrote in 1991. “In reading and<br />
discussing art a specific way of thinking was formed, along<br />
with our Renaissance literature, philosophy and culture.”<br />
It is impossible to imagine that Renaissance noble Nikola<br />
Gučetić could have written his dialogues On Beauty and On<br />
Love (1581) anywhere else than at his villa at Trsteno, where<br />
the philosophical conversations described in his texts probably<br />
took place.<br />
Given the many violent ruptures in Dubrovnik’s history (notably<br />
the earthquake of 1667, or the destruction wrought<br />
by the Franco-Russian War of 1807), it’s perhaps surprising<br />
that so many of the city’s Renaissance villas have survived.<br />
Few of the original villa-owning families are still around.<br />
Many of Dubrovnik’s aristocratic houses fell on hard times<br />
in the nineteenth century and were forced to sell up their<br />
historic properties – frequently to returning economic<br />
migrants who had made their fortune in South America.<br />
Another watershed occurred after 1945, when many of the<br />
big houses were nationalized and shared out among public<br />
institutions.<br />
Dubrovnik’s Renaissance villas are still an important feature<br />
of the landscape, although they are often hidden behind<br />
high walls and palm trees, or edged into anonymity by<br />
16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
neighbouring modern buildings. Several villas line the waterfront<br />
of Gruž harbour, with yet more to be found along<br />
the shores of the Rijeka Dubrovačka - the sea inlet spanned<br />
by the Franjo Tuđman suspension bridge just to the west<br />
of Gruž.<br />
None of these villas are currently open to the public on a<br />
walk-in basis, although tours taking in several prominent<br />
houses can be arranged through local tourist agencies. One<br />
of the villas you will be taken to is the Sorkočević villa on the<br />
southern side of Gruž harbour, which now belongs to the<br />
Dubrovnik Historical Institute. Surrounded by a high crenellated<br />
wall, the villa looks a bit like a castle – although it belongs<br />
to an era when Dubrovnik’s borders were expanding<br />
and there was no longer any real fear of sea-borne invaders.<br />
It was built in 1521 by Petar Sorkočević, who served four<br />
times as rector of the city, and whose family had grown rich<br />
on the proceeds of the Balkan silver-mining trade. Inside<br />
is a small museum collection relating to the history of Dubrovnik<br />
and a lovely old library. The villa’s chapel contains a<br />
15th-century statue of Dubrovnik’s patron St Blaise, carved<br />
the by prolific Dalmatian stonemason Juraj Dalmatinac, architect<br />
of the UNESCO-listed Šibenik Cathedral.<br />
One other villa that regularly opens its doors to organized<br />
tours is the Bunić-Kaboga Villa, located at the southeastern<br />
end of the Rijeka Dubrovačka. Recently restore to its Gothic-Renaissance<br />
glory by descendants of the original family,<br />
this colonnaded mansion is frequently used as a venue for<br />
conferences and social events. The Villa Stay, next door to<br />
the Bunić-Kaboga house, has been home to the Dubrovnik<br />
Restoration Institute since 1998, and will also open its doors<br />
to visitors on a pre-arranged tour.<br />
One place that anyone can stop off at is the Sorkočević villa,<br />
now serving as the administrative building of the ACI Marina<br />
at the Rijeka Dubrovačka’s northern end. Although you<br />
can’t visit the interior of the villa, it’s an undoubtedly beautiful<br />
spot, with the bobbing boats of the marina overlooked<br />
by a ring of stony hills. The villa’s garden, with its geometric<br />
box-hedge layout, is a popular venue for wedding photographs,<br />
and if you come here on a Saturday you’re almost<br />
certain to see a bride and groom posing beneath the pergola.<br />
Carry on around the curve of the Rijeka Dubrovačka inlet<br />
and you will come to Mokošica, where modern tower<br />
blocks dwarf a handful of ruined villas, including the<br />
Gucetić Villa, famous for its arcaded Gothic-Renaissance façade.<br />
Although restoration work is still in its early stages, the<br />
villa has been earmarked as the future site of the Mokošica<br />
Cultural Centre – a welcome sign that Dubrovnik’s once<br />
great villa culture has not yet breathed its last.<br />
To find out more about tours of Dubrovnik’s Renaissance<br />
summer houses contact the Dubrovnik tourist office, or<br />
drop a line to registered tour guide Branka Franičević<br />
(brankaf@du.t-com.hr) who will be glad to offer a tailormade<br />
tour.<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events<br />
Dubrovnik Art Gallery Archives<br />
Exhibitions<br />
January 2013 - December 2015<br />
Fish of the Dubrovnik region<br />
This extraordinary exhibition presents around 70 fish<br />
species found in the Dubrovnik area not to mention<br />
endangered species presented in 3D models. A didactic<br />
educational playground mimicking fish movements is fun<br />
and interactive for the kiddies and besides the permanent<br />
artefacts from the old museum’s collection, recent collections<br />
will also be showcased.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural<br />
History Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.<br />
January - November 2015<br />
The Freshwater Turtle<br />
Native solely to the Dubrovnik-Neretva County, the pond<br />
turtle (Emys orbicularis) and the river turtle (Mauremys<br />
rivulata) are the only types of freshwater turtles to be<br />
found in Croatia. This exhibition will showcase the living<br />
conditions of these extraordinary yet almost extinct species,<br />
whilst also <strong>info</strong>rming visitors on how to raise public<br />
awareness in protecting them.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural<br />
History Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.<br />
February 2014 - December 2015<br />
The Hum of the Sea<br />
Who sells sea shells by the seashore! Established way back<br />
at the beginning of the 19th century, the collection of<br />
molluscs at the Dubrovnik Natural History Museum is vast<br />
indeed. See a historical overview of the various molluscs<br />
showcased with a special emphasis on species found in<br />
the Adriatic Sea and shore.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural History<br />
Museum ,Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.<br />
March 2014 - December 2015<br />
In Honour of the City<br />
This year marks the 5th anniversary since the reopening<br />
of the Dubrovnik Natural History Museum. Of high regard<br />
is a tribute to two of the city’s historical stalwarts; Antun<br />
Drobac, to whom the Museo Patrio was founded and who<br />
contributed greatly to the economic development of the<br />
city. And to Baldo Kosić, who established the first natural<br />
collection of fish, amphibians, birds, reptiles and mammals<br />
from the Dubrovnik area.QC-4, Dubrovnik Natural History<br />
Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.<br />
08.04 Wednesday - 29.11 Sunday<br />
Exhibition of prints by Salvador Dali<br />
An exhibition of works from the great artist’s oeuvre will<br />
be shown in the foyer of the Convent of St. Clare. This is<br />
a unique presentation of graphics from his ‘Biblia Sacra’<br />
and ‘The Divine Comedy’ works. Due to the techniques<br />
used these works occupy a special place in his opus. A<br />
selection of over 130 of Dali’s prints from 1964 to 1967 will<br />
be shown, 70 graphic prints, and Dali’s statue of Dante.<br />
QB-2, Convent of St. Clare, Poljana Paška Miličevića 3.<br />
04.06 Thursday - 02.08 Sunday<br />
Contemporary Japanese Prints<br />
An extraordinary selection of 30 outstanding representatives<br />
of Japanese contemporary graphic art including<br />
Amano Jnji, Arichi Yoshito and Isomi Teruo! All the artworks<br />
displayed combine ancient and traditional Japanese<br />
techniques depicting prevalent customs and nature<br />
on its own using their very own form and style.QL-2,<br />
Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, www.<br />
ug<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr.<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 17
Culture & Events<br />
Dubrovnik Summer Festival Archives<br />
25.07 Saturday - 13.08 Thursday<br />
Marc Riboud<br />
As part of the Randez-vous Festival which promotes French<br />
culture in Croatia, one of France’s most celebrated photographers<br />
Marc Riboud will hold an exhibition in Dubrovnik<br />
and brings with him 15 of his most popular photos and 30 of<br />
his works which were taken in 1953 during his stay in Croatia.<br />
The best of the past in the present!QSponza Palace, Sv.<br />
Dominika 1.<br />
Special events<br />
12.06 Friday<br />
DBN<br />
And the party begins! DBN is a DJ trio with devotion for<br />
house music. Their single ‘Night train’ caught the attention<br />
of critics and world DJs which was then followed by remixes<br />
of releases by Avicii and Nicky Romero through to Axwell<br />
and many other resounding stars. Djani, Patrick and Tobias<br />
are the perfect trifecta to warm up Revelin’s summer agenda.QE-1,<br />
Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.<br />
clubrevelin.com.<br />
The Linđo Folk Ensemble<br />
The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural<br />
exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you every<br />
Tuesday and Friday during the tourist season, when<br />
high-spirited energetic performances with amazing<br />
costumes and haunting songs will echo through Sloboda<br />
Cinema, up until July 10, and Lazareti after August<br />
25, starting at 21:30. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival<br />
(July 10 - August 25) is an exception, when their performances<br />
are as per the festival’s schedule.QSloboda<br />
Cinema, Luža bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 23/(+385-) 091<br />
571 79 63, www.lindjo.hr. Tickets 100kn.<br />
18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
15.06 Monday - 05.09 Saturday<br />
Park Orsula Music Festival<br />
After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated<br />
this phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th<br />
century St Orsula’s Church, as of 2011 Dubrovnik has gained<br />
a new summer stage for this festival which hosts various<br />
Croatian and international musical performers throughout<br />
the summer. There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old<br />
Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum from<br />
this amphitheatre which holds 250 seats and is set on a 200<br />
metre high cliff above the sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the<br />
Old Town or short ride by the No.10 bus. A perfect combination<br />
of location and excellent music puts this Festival on<br />
everybody’s to-do list!Qwww.parkorsula.du-hr.net.<br />
22.06 Monday - 01.09 Tuesday<br />
Stars Beneath the Stars<br />
In its 11 year running, the Adriatic Luxury Hotels group organise<br />
an intriguing music summer programme where the<br />
most attractive areas surrounding 5 star hotels (beaches,<br />
terraces, pools) turn into splendid open settings where<br />
concerts take place under the night-time sky. The combination<br />
of international music from (jazz, rock, pop, Cuban,) to<br />
prestigious Croatian musical artists makes this event sparkle.<br />
QGardens of Grand Villa Argentina; The Palm Terrace,<br />
Hotel Excelsior; Vala Beach Club, Hotel Dubrovnik Palace,<br />
www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com.<br />
28.06 Sunday<br />
Lissat and Voltaxx<br />
Anyone familiar with the beatport top 100 will recognise this<br />
dynamic duo that has been topping the charts for almost a<br />
decade. These gents play a mixture of energetic house music<br />
filled with cool vibes and a touch of underground. With a<br />
combo of hit remixes and originals ‘Silence’, Rock the casbah’<br />
and ‘In love’ just to name a few, they sure know how to work<br />
the crowd. New singles such as ‘Aint nobody’ and ‘Joe le taxi’<br />
are booming around world clubs as we speak.QE-1, Culture<br />
Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.clubrevelin.com.<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
16.07 Thursday - 18.07 Saturday<br />
Revelin Festival<br />
Round two begins after last year’s astounding edition. Top<br />
world DJs mix and remix all night long in the majestic five<br />
hundred year old Revelin Fortress where some of the scenes<br />
of the hugely popular ‘Game of Thrones’ series were filmed.<br />
These DJs, who we have dubbed as knights of the modern<br />
era include Roger Sanchez, Julian Jordan and duo Redondo,<br />
DANCElectricPHILIPE, Speed, Audiometric and others.QE-1,<br />
Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.clubrevelin.<br />
com.<br />
04.08 Tuesday - 14.08 Friday<br />
Summer Film School Šipan<br />
Along with the island’s film festival, workshops are held<br />
for kids under the mentorship of distinguished film professionals.<br />
Kids from the island as well as visitors produce their<br />
own films each summer and screen them in the open theatre<br />
under the stars. We just might find the next Spielberg<br />
here!QŠipan port, island Šipan.<br />
12.08 Wednesday - 15.08 Saturday<br />
Dubrovnik Electronic Festival<br />
Electro grooves will once again pelt out from Culture Club<br />
Revelin and Fedde le Grand returns for the opening night<br />
of the event. DJs from Mars deliver their mashup sound to<br />
the stage whilst Belgian DJ Marco Bailey is set to serve up his<br />
mixture of party techno, minimal and electronic house. The<br />
repertoire also includes Kryder, Saind Wknd, Audimetric,<br />
Phiberoptic and others. Let the music inspire your summer<br />
stay!QE-1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.<br />
clubrevelin.com.<br />
14.08 Friday<br />
S.A.R.S.<br />
The hugely popular Serbian alternative rock band S.A.R.S.<br />
are set to perform in one of the city’s most outstanding<br />
venues, Orsula Park; the very spot they played in 2012. Their<br />
mixture of pop rock, reggae, blues, jazz, hip hop and ethno<br />
music has earned them the swift reputation of being one of<br />
the leading acts of the new Serbian scene.QOrsula Park.<br />
Culture & Events<br />
Božidar Gjukić - War<br />
Photography 1991-1992<br />
‘A photo can speak a thousand words’ and a selection<br />
of city museums have come together to present eighty<br />
thought-provoking, vivid photos depicting Dubrovnik<br />
and its surroundings during the Homeland War, in<br />
1991/1992. Twenty years on, the role and importance<br />
of war photography testifies to the truth.QD-3, Rector’s<br />
Palace, Pred dvorom 1, dumus.hr.<br />
Dubrovnik in the<br />
Homeland War 1991-<br />
1995 (Dubrovnik u<br />
Domovinskom ratu)<br />
Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the Fort Imperial<br />
building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol in the<br />
defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs, published<br />
material, weapons, explosives, war maps and<br />
commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia,<br />
flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home<br />
to a memorial with the names of all the defenders who<br />
had lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very<br />
spot.QImperial Fort, Srđ, dumus.hr. Open 08:00 -<br />
22:00. Admission 15-30kn.<br />
28.08 Friday<br />
Paul Van Dyk<br />
Ready to dance the night away! Then prepare to be<br />
amazed by the dance and trance sounds of one of the<br />
world’s first superstar DJs and Grammy Award winners.<br />
This German giant of jam, Paul Van Dyk will use the medieval<br />
fortress walls as a contrast of modern light and splashback<br />
sound that will bring the house down.QE-1, Culture<br />
Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.clubrevelin.com.<br />
15.08 Saturday<br />
Gregory Porter<br />
Having won the Grammy Award for Best Jazz Vocal album<br />
in 2014, Porter has been defined as a vocalist of thrilling<br />
presence, a booming baritone who can finesse between<br />
jazz and soul, uplifting and unique both lyrically and melodically.<br />
Somehow the 66th Dubrovnik Summer Festival<br />
seems to have got a whole lot smoother. Jazz it up!QE-1,<br />
Revelin Fort Terrace, Sv. Dominika bb, www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>festival.hr.<br />
twitter.com/<br />
inyourpocket<br />
S.A.R.S. Photo by Filip Dizdar<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 19
Culture & Events<br />
Classical MUSIC CONCERTS<br />
17.04 Friday - 30.06 Tuesday<br />
Dubrovnik Symphonic Orchestra<br />
Dubrovnik’s affiliation with music dates back to the 16th<br />
century. In saying that, the city’s iconic symphonic orchestra<br />
was established in 1924 and today continues that honourable<br />
tradition with an amazing programme consisting<br />
of concerts on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays and at<br />
three breath-taking venues. Keep an eye out on world renowned<br />
classical music artists who will join them on stage.<br />
QE-1, B-2 , D-3, Fort Revelin ; Franciscan church, Placa ;<br />
Rector’s palace, Pred dvorom 1, www.dso.hr.<br />
10.07 Friday - 25.08 Tuesday<br />
66th Dubrovnik Summer Festival<br />
One of the oldest European festivals with over 80 national<br />
and international music, theatre and dance performances<br />
shown over 7 sizzling summer weeks. In its 66th edition,<br />
this event has all the grandeur with renaissance venues<br />
such as the Lovrjenac Fort, Revelin Fort, St. Blaise’s Church,<br />
Sponza Palace and the Rector’s Palace that bestow a captivating<br />
ambience. 2000 artists will show you how the Old<br />
City turns into a stage.Qwww.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>-festival.hr.<br />
23.08 Sunday<br />
Ivo Pogorelić and the Zagreb Philharmonic<br />
Chamber Studio<br />
Often called a ‘genius’ and ‘immense talent’, Ivo Pogorelić<br />
is undoubtedly Croatia’s most renowned classical pianist<br />
whose performances have always sparked a lot of controversy<br />
for being either too innovative and/or somewhat<br />
eccentric, yet undeniably amazing. He has played numerous<br />
solo recitals across the globe and will be joined by the<br />
Zagreb Philharmonic Chamber Studio.QRector’s Palace<br />
Atrium.<br />
26.08 Wednesday - 21.09 Monday<br />
Dubrovnik in the Late Summer Music<br />
Festival<br />
Dubrovnik is truly a city of culture all year round and this<br />
music festival, which was launched by the Dubrovnik Symphonic<br />
Orchestra, was aimed at keeping the city’s musical<br />
and cultural vibrancy alive. Until mid-September, a number<br />
of prestigious European musicians will perform works<br />
by famous classical composers in the enchanting ambience<br />
of the Rector’s Palace.QRector’s Palace.<br />
JAzz & Blues CONCERTS<br />
04.09 Friday<br />
Tamara Obrovac Transhistria Ensemble<br />
Watching Tamara and her band perform is an experience<br />
in itself as one is transported into a whirlwind of improvisation<br />
and spontaneity. This international ensemble plays<br />
contemporary jazz with elements of Istrian and Mediterranean<br />
music, thus creating a unique artistic expression.<br />
The concert will be a promotion of their new album Canto<br />
amoroso.QPark Orsula, www.tamaraobrovac.com.<br />
24.09 Thursday - 27.09 Sunday<br />
Dubrovnik International Wine&Jazz<br />
Festival<br />
Dubrovnik again becomes a jazz centrepiece with venues<br />
such as Stradun and the Rector’s Palace transformed into<br />
a stage. A grand line-up of international and local jazz<br />
musicians this year gathers around Jazz meets Broadway<br />
theme. Add to that sumptuous wine and food, it’s one<br />
event that is hard to miss.Qwww.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>winejazz.<br />
com.<br />
Sport events<br />
12.07 Sunday - 16.08 Sunday<br />
Wild League – Water Polo Championships<br />
Low and behold, welcome to the largest amateur water<br />
polo competition in the world. Few argue that this city<br />
is the world capital of water polo, and over 40 teams will<br />
jump into the sea at the beginning of July ready to battle<br />
it out for the title.<br />
10.10 Saturday - 25.10 Sunday<br />
International Tennis Tournament<br />
This prestigious tennis tournament has proven to be a<br />
breakthrough sports event for many young tennis players,<br />
both male and female, from Croatia and Europe alike. The<br />
growing number of participants and interest sparked by<br />
the media only confirms the importance of this tournament.<br />
A true ace!QF/G-3, H-2, Babin Kuk tennis centre,<br />
Ive Dulčića bb; Dubrovnik Tennis Club, Šetalište kralja<br />
Zvonimira bb.<br />
Epidaurus Festival Archives<br />
20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events<br />
Papaya Archives<br />
Papaya Archives<br />
Hideout - Papaya Archives<br />
The Garden Festival - Boat Party by Heather Shuker<br />
SUMMER BEATS<br />
So you are on these pages because you’re in a festival<br />
frenzy and you were looking for a guide to lead<br />
you through the labyrinth. Well buckle up and hold<br />
on tight. We’ll lead you through the adventurous<br />
days and nights of the summer accompanied by a<br />
soundtrack of techno, house, trance, bass, tech-house<br />
(or no soundtrack at all if you prefer)... We’ll attempt to<br />
give you a clear and concise run through of the best<br />
festivals this beautiful country has to offer from north<br />
to south and will make sure you know the place, the<br />
date, and the headliners.<br />
As for the festivals themselves, as an institution in the<br />
past they served the purpose of strengthening the<br />
bonds among the community in the era before mass<br />
media. That time has passed but the need to be a part<br />
of something bigger than yourself, a part of the community,<br />
is still very much alive. This is the summer<br />
you’ll get everything you ever wanted so no matter<br />
what happens just keep on dancing and living!<br />
ZAGREB<br />
Our most northern destination and also the only continental<br />
location is the capital, Zagreb, but the party is<br />
just too good to leave out. If the capital of the country<br />
calls, you answer. Welcome to Zagreb Calling with<br />
the event of the season and a grand gig by the large<br />
electronic duo Faithless on Jul 14th. So if you are planning<br />
to go deeper into the continent, plan your visit to<br />
coincide with this bomb.<br />
ISTRIA & KVARNER<br />
We move on to the Istria and Kvarner region and settle<br />
in Pula. There’s actually not much in the way of settling,<br />
as Pula will be bursting with life with its own festival<br />
madness. Seasplash festival (reggae) will splash<br />
you with sound from Jul 16th to 19th and portals to a<br />
fresher and more enjoyable view on life will be opened<br />
during Dimensions festival from Aug 26th to 30th with<br />
world class names from house to techno such as Four<br />
Tet Live, Ben Klock, John Talabot, and Surgeon. Finally,<br />
September will be greeted by bass music Outlook festival<br />
from Sept 2nd to 6th with SBTRKT Live, Roni Size<br />
Reprazent, and Goldie.<br />
NORTHERN DALMATIA<br />
So we take our journey a bit more south and arrive<br />
at Zrće beach on the Island of Pag, the most famous<br />
party destination in Croatia often dubbed The Second<br />
Ibiza.<br />
From Jun 28th to Jul 2nd you’ll be able to enjoy The<br />
Hideout festival and find your own shelter from the<br />
world with names such as Duke Dumont, Jamie Jones,<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 21
Culture & Events<br />
Nina Kraviz, Sigma, and Loco Dice.<br />
From Jul 25th to Aug 1st prepare your ears for seven<br />
days of love and joy at the Loveweek festival with the<br />
sounds of artists like Robin Schulz, Showtek, Oliver Koletzki,<br />
and Felix Krocher.<br />
Aug 8th to Aug 15th is reserved for the 4th edition of<br />
Barrakud festival with huge headliners such as Maceo<br />
Plex, Sven Väth, Dennis Ferrer, and Ellen Allien, while<br />
Aug 16th through 20th is designated for Sonus festival,<br />
where you will be greeted by the beats of Dixon,<br />
Jamie Jones, Marco Carola, Richie Hawtin, and Seth<br />
Troxler.<br />
Then it’s time to move a few miles inland, where you’ll<br />
be able to find all that was lost at the Lost Theory festival<br />
at Deringaj, in amazing ambience near the river<br />
Otuča, dancing and swinging amongst the trees deep<br />
in the forest from 12th to 17th of Aug with psychedelic<br />
and goa trance DJs, live acts, and performers. A tad<br />
further south we find ourselves in Zadar, which invites<br />
you to come and dance in open spaces at the new Viva<br />
Riva festival on Aug 7th and 8th.<br />
From Zadar we move on to Tisno, an enchantingly<br />
wonderful location that is one of the fastest growing<br />
and most sought after festival destinations in Croatia.<br />
For some mindless senseless fun Tisno opens the season<br />
with The Garden festival. Jul 1st through the 8th<br />
is going to be your last chance ever to visit The Garden<br />
festival at its final 10th edition, called “Going Out with<br />
a Bang”, with the farewell soundtrack provided by Seth<br />
Troxler, Bonobo, and Craig Richards, while just a day after<br />
we say goodbye to The Garden we see its replacement.<br />
Jul 9th to Jul 13th will be a time to notice the<br />
huge Electric Elephant in the room when disco music<br />
will be celebrated by the likes of A Guy Called Gerald<br />
live, Derrick Carter, and Bicep. Soon it will be time to<br />
stop being practical and join the crowds at Stop Making<br />
Sense festival lasting from Jul 16th to Jul 19th . For<br />
these few days this will become home for all house,<br />
disco, techno, electro, soul, and funk lovers with musicians<br />
such as Anja Schneider, Anthony Naples, and The<br />
Black Madonna.<br />
After the madness it will be time for the sleeker,<br />
sexier sound of SuncéBeat Festival with its sultry soulful<br />
house from Jul 22nd to 29th and the soul will be<br />
brought by artists such as Kerri Chandler, Louie Vega,<br />
and Dimitri from Paris. Finally Soundwave festival<br />
will be reverberating over the water surface Aug 6th<br />
through 10th with the sounds of Mr. Scruff, LTJ Bukem,<br />
and Slum Village.<br />
Our last stop in the Northern Dalmatia region is<br />
Šibenik where you will be free to lend your ear to the<br />
SuperUHO festival from Aug 6th to Aug 8th with Einstürzende<br />
Neubauten, King Khan and The Shrines, and<br />
Rosetta.<br />
Central Dalmatia will blow you away with the promises<br />
of unforgettable nights. We start at Trogir which will<br />
be dancing under the Moondance festival flag on Aug<br />
2nd with greats such as Dave Clarke and Kink. Than we<br />
slide over to Split. This is where you want to be because<br />
from Jul 9th to 15th it’s time for the massive<br />
Ultra Europe with global headliners like The Chemical<br />
Brothers (LIVE!!), Carl Cox, Armin Van Buuren, Hardwell,<br />
and from Aug 6th to Aug 8th you are invited to EDM<br />
fantasy of Split Beach Festival with Fedde Le Grand.<br />
Supetar at Brač will become a safe haven for the Voi`sa<br />
festival. Artists like Breach/Ben Westbeech, Greg Wilson,<br />
and Joey Negro play from Jul 30th to Aug 1st,<br />
and then a little more down the longitudes is the oh<br />
so sunny island of Hvar which welcomes you to the 3rd<br />
edition of FOR festival held from Sep 4th – 6th .<br />
SOUTHERN DALMATIA<br />
And finally we are off to the most southern of festivals<br />
from which you can choose. First stop is Korkyralis on<br />
Korčula which is an amazing five week long relaxing<br />
festival experience where you can chill on the farms<br />
and yachts nearby and dance your heart out with Tube<br />
& Berger, Tiefschwarz, Subb-an and Noir from Jul 25th<br />
– Aug 29th, and maybe in the meantime slide to Velika<br />
Duba Bay near Živogošće. For all of those who cannot<br />
help but dance under the stars in the untouched<br />
nature, we present the Adriatic Perception festival on<br />
Aug 14th and 15th when we will be joined by Christian<br />
Smith, Silicone Soul, and Ramon Tapia.<br />
Dance, love, enjoy, and live!<br />
Hideout - Papaya Archives<br />
22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Archeological Treasury<br />
Narona Archeological Museum Archives<br />
Croatian archeological<br />
destinations that<br />
should not be missed<br />
by Jonathan Bousfield<br />
What follows is a list of archeological destinations that are<br />
both significant places of discovery and also rewarding<br />
places to visit. No list is ever complete – very often one historical<br />
site will lead you on to the discovery of an equally<br />
interesting one somewhere else – but hopefully it will provide<br />
a spur to further exploration.<br />
Zagreb and inland Croatia<br />
Krapina<br />
The Zagorje market town of Krapina north of Zagreb has<br />
been closely associated with Neanderthals ever since Dragutin<br />
Gorjanović Krambeger first trowelled up their bones<br />
in 1899. These original finds are so unique that they are<br />
permanently locked up in a secure vault in Zagreb, but<br />
this doesn’t mean that you should Krapina Neanderthal<br />
Museum a miss. On the contrary, it’s arguably the finest<br />
scientific-historic day out that Croatia has to offer; a stateof-the-art<br />
museum that deploys film shows, multimedia<br />
displays and supremely lifelike Neanderthal waxworks to<br />
tell the story – not just of the Neanderthals themselves –<br />
but of human evolution in general.<br />
Although Neanderthals became extinct about 40,000 years<br />
ago, recent research has revealed that they lived alongside<br />
Homo sapiens for a long time and interbred with them<br />
too; which means that all of us probably still carry the odd<br />
thread of Neanderthal DNA.<br />
Vukovar<br />
One of the most iconic objects in the Croatian cultural<br />
canon is the so-called Vučedol Dove, a 3000-year-old,<br />
three-legged ceramic vessel currently displayed at Zagreb’s<br />
Archeological Museum. The Dove was unearthed at the riverside<br />
locality of Vučedol, just downstream from Vukovar, a<br />
major centre of Eneolithic archeological discovery that has<br />
given its name to the Vučedol Culture – a copper-smelting<br />
civilization that stretched from the Adriatic to the Pannonian<br />
Plain. This summer will finally see the long-awaited<br />
opening of the Museum of Vučedol Culture (www.turizamvukovar.hr),<br />
which will attempt to bring these European<br />
ancestors to life with recreations of their dwellings, audiovisual<br />
displays and a wealth of artefacts.<br />
Vinkovci<br />
The eastern Croatian town of Vinkovci has been claimed<br />
to be the oldest continuously inhabited town in Europe,<br />
although similar things have been said about Plovdiv in<br />
Bulgaria, so it’s always worth treating these headline-grabbing<br />
statements with a pinch of salt. What’s known is that<br />
it played host to a distinctive Neolithic group belonging to<br />
the so-called Starčevo Culture from at least before 6000BC.<br />
The inhabitants lived in metre-deep dug-outs covered with<br />
awnings, and heated themselves with ceramic ovens. You<br />
can see the evidence in Vinkovci Museum, which includes<br />
a recreation of one of the dwellings.<br />
Just outside Vinkovci in the village of Sopot, a dig investigating<br />
a quite separate hut-dwelling culture dating back<br />
to around 5000BC is now the location of the Sopot Archeological<br />
Park, where a handful of dwellings has been<br />
reconstructed.<br />
Zadar region<br />
Asseria<br />
Occupying a ridge overlooking the fertile fields of the<br />
Ravni kotari, Asseria was inhabited from bronze age times,<br />
becoming an important administrative and trading centre<br />
under the Liburnians and the Romans before being abandoned<br />
some time during the Avar and Slav migrations. It’s<br />
a compelling site, surrounded by extensive defensive walls,<br />
with a ruined medieval church occupying what used to be<br />
the forum. Located near Podgrađe, 5km from Benkovac,<br />
Asseria is earmarked for future tourist development, with<br />
the construction of a visitors’ centre and a ‘dormitorium’ inspired<br />
by Roman-era residential quarters.<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 23
Archeological Treasury<br />
A lot of artefacts uncovered in Asseria are on display in the<br />
Zadar Archeological Museum (amzd.hr), particularly the<br />
pine-cone shaped gravestones known as cippi, a form typical<br />
of the area inhabited by the LIburnians. The first floor<br />
of the Archeological Museum, newly reopened after extensive<br />
renovation, is the place to learn more about Romanera<br />
northern Dalmatia.<br />
Šibenik region<br />
Burnum<br />
North of Šibenik, just outside western boundary of the Krka<br />
National Park, the road from Kistanje to Knin passes the site<br />
of Burnum (www.npkrka.hr/stranice/burnum-amphitheatre-and-archaeological-collection-burnum/21/en.html),<br />
the 1st-century Roman military camp that is thought to<br />
have accommodated two entire legions. What’s left of the<br />
site is dramatic indeed, its pale stones emerging from the<br />
arid, maquis-covered karst. On the western side of the road<br />
lie the remains of an amphitheatre, while further up to the<br />
east are the remaining two arches of the former military<br />
command post.<br />
Many of the finds from Burnum, together with an<br />
attractive interpretative display, can be admired at<br />
Puljane, a National Park-operated visitors’ centre<br />
located on a plateau high above the Krka gorge.<br />
Split region<br />
Salona<br />
Arguably the grandest of Croatia’s ancient cities is Salona,<br />
former capital of Roman dalmatia and reckoned to be the<br />
fourth largest city in the empire at its height, and now poking<br />
up unassumingly from the fields that stretch west of<br />
Solin, just inland from Split. Salona has been intensively<br />
excavated at several times over the last 125 years, most<br />
notably by Don Frane Bulić (1846-1934), the doyen of<br />
Croatian archeology who is buried in a Late Roman-style<br />
sarcophagus at the entrance to the site. However 90% of<br />
Salona remains untouched by archeologists, hidden beneath<br />
privately-owned vegetable plots and olive groves.<br />
It’s still a pretty amazing place, however, with the remains<br />
of a 17,000-seater amphitheatre, plenty of exposed city<br />
walls and gates, and one of the biggest collections of early-<br />
Christian basilicas ever excavated. Standing near the centre<br />
of the site is the Tusculum, a house built by Bulić to serve as<br />
a base for excavations and a venue for lavish dinners based<br />
on Roman feasts – Bulić himself turned up in a toga.<br />
Most of the things unearthed at Salona are on display at<br />
the Split Archeological Museum (www.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski/hr/index.html),<br />
whose outdoor lapidarium contains<br />
one of the best collections of stone-carved sarcophagi anywhere<br />
in Europe.<br />
Stari Grad<br />
Riding a bike across the fertile plain between Stari Grad and<br />
Jelsa on the island of Hvar you might be forgiven for thinking<br />
that the local vineyards, olive plantations and dry-stone<br />
walls represent a typical Adriatic landscape of great beauty<br />
24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
but not necessarily any great significance. In fact the pattern<br />
of field divisions - and many of the stones that make up the<br />
partitions - date back to the fourth century BC, when Stari<br />
Grad was colonized by Greeks from Vis. Known in Greek as<br />
the Hora, this intensively farmed plain has changed little in<br />
the intervening centuries, and was placed on the UNESCO<br />
World Heritage list in 2008 in recognition of its historical<br />
importance. Remains of a Greek tower have been found on<br />
Maslinovik hill, and the remnants of Roman-era country villas<br />
are scattered across the plain. You might not spot any of<br />
these as you pass, but the timeless landscape of agricultural<br />
toil is enough to give you a strong impression of Mediterranean<br />
culture and its centuries-long continuity.<br />
Dubrovnik region<br />
Narona<br />
Surrounded by the reeds and waterways of the Neretva<br />
Delta, the Narona Archeological Museum (www.a-m-narona.hr)<br />
just west of Metković is an outstanding example of<br />
how to display a historically significant archeological site<br />
while at the same time making it an entertaining place to<br />
bring the family. Key to its success is the building, a grey<br />
shell built right on top of an excavations sit that can be<br />
viewed through a glass floor. Metal stairways lead to upper<br />
levels of the museum where display cases contain coins<br />
and ceramics, and eventually lead out onto the museum’s<br />
roof, which offers excellent views of the surrounding landscape.<br />
Narona was an important trading post on the Roman road<br />
from Dalmatia into the Balkan interior. A temple complex<br />
thought to have honoured the Emperor Augustus is very<br />
much the museum’s centerpiece: Augustus and his household<br />
are represented by a group of fourteen statues, although<br />
all of them are now headless making identification<br />
somewhat difficult. One of the missing heads, thought to<br />
represent Augustus’s wife Livia, was purchased from locals<br />
by British archeologist Arthur Evans in the 1870s, and can<br />
currently be seen in the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford.<br />
Vela Spila, Vela Luka<br />
Once you get past the Neanderthals of Krapina, the oldest<br />
inhabitant of Croatia so far excavated is probably ‘Stanko’,<br />
the 9000-year-old skeleton pulled out of an archeological<br />
trench in Vela Spila (www.velaspila.hr), a partially-collapsed<br />
cave on the hillside just above the Korčulan port of Vela<br />
Luka. The site is of huge importance to students of Mediterranean<br />
prehistory, having played host to successive human<br />
cultures from Stanko’s time onwards. The recent discovery<br />
of 17,500-year-old ceramic objects thought to represent<br />
cult figures and animals sent waves of excitement through<br />
the global archeological community – although it will take<br />
some time before these extraordinarily early ceramics are<br />
fully evaluated and put on display. The cave itself doesn’t<br />
hold an archeological display as such, but it’s a wonderfully<br />
evocative spot in which to ponder the lifestyles of your distant<br />
ancestors. Many of the older finds from Vela Spila are<br />
on show at the Vela Luka Cultural Centre (www.czkvl.hr)<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Dubrovnik Pulse<br />
We asked locals - who live or work in<br />
Dubrovnik - to give us a few tips on how to<br />
enrich your stay in this city and make it that<br />
bit more interesting.<br />
Andro Vidak<br />
Orsula Park Festival Manager and President of Ambient Croatia<br />
DIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or<br />
go out at night?<br />
Andro: Park Orsula, of course, ha ha ha ...<br />
DIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Dubrovnik?<br />
Andro: My favourite place for a day of relaxing is Lokrum.<br />
At sunset, I recommend, however, Orsula ..<br />
DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?<br />
Which activities do you recommend?<br />
Andro: The best way to explore Dubrovnik is to make direct<br />
and immediate contact with the locals. People with<br />
similarities will easily meet each other, no matter what<br />
ethnicity or race. I would suggest all types of activities<br />
that lead people to meet one another, to connect and<br />
share their own experiences and knowledge. From these<br />
meetings the most beautiful memories and emotions tie<br />
you to the places you have visited. We call that unmaterialistic<br />
heritage, spirit ... Material images are better and<br />
brighter when they are upgraded with this...<br />
DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What<br />
do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?<br />
Andro: The souvenirs that are offered are somehow uniform<br />
and are full of kitsch products. Tourists are faced<br />
with a multitude of trinkets that mean nothing. Personally,<br />
as a souvenir I would recommend a good bottle of<br />
Pelješac Plavac. It is a unique, authentic wine, with a taste<br />
that allows you to feel the typical spirit of this climate.<br />
DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend<br />
as a “must-try” for visitors?<br />
Andro: Ston oysters and lešada with red grouper fish.<br />
Anisa Borojević<br />
Director of Communications at Gulliver Travel<br />
DIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee<br />
or go out at night?<br />
Anisa: Cafe Gallery in the Old Town is my choice whether<br />
it’s for coffee or a night out.<br />
DIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Dubrovnik?<br />
Anisa: Although it is not in Dubrovnik, the Vrbova bay on<br />
the island of Šipan is definitely one of the the best places<br />
to relax, enjoy good food, the sea ...<br />
DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?<br />
Which activities do you recommend?<br />
Anisa: Walking around the city is the best recommendation.<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 25
Dubrovnik Pulse<br />
BARBA Restaurant Archives<br />
DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What<br />
do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?<br />
Anisa: Something from the AR atelier academic painter<br />
Antonia Rusković Radonić who in a wonderful way combines<br />
tradition and art.<br />
DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend<br />
as a “must-try” for visitors?<br />
Anisa: Popara (Gregada Fish Stew) at the restaurant Glorijet.<br />
Simona Farac<br />
Dubrovnik Treasures<br />
where you can just relax and take in the beauty. Saint Jacob’s<br />
beach is also lovely, has a great view… but a few too<br />
many stairs for some… for me it is worth it.<br />
DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?<br />
Which activities do you recommend?<br />
Simona: Dubrovnik is quite small… walk around the<br />
walls and side streets of the Old Town, take the cable car<br />
up to the top of the mountain for a breathtaking view of<br />
Dubrovnik at sunset, take a taxi to Lapad, and catch a taxi<br />
boat to see the small islands surrounding Dubrovnik. Kayaking<br />
around Dubrovnik seems like it would be a lovely<br />
way to see the walls of the city, but I haven’t done it yet,<br />
so I can’t really recommend it.<br />
DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What<br />
do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?<br />
Simona: The best place to shop for the ladies is definitely<br />
‘Dubrovnik Treasures.’ For those who love jewelry, we<br />
surely have something for you. Jewelry is a great souvenir<br />
because it’s small, light and therefore easy to pack. It is<br />
something that you will wear and it won’t just sit on the<br />
shelf collecting dust. As a souvenir, I recommend buying<br />
a piece of jewelry with the ‘Dubrovnik button’ (known as<br />
the ‘Puca’) which we implement in many of our designs.<br />
It is a traditional filigree ball which was previously used<br />
as buttons on the national dress. You could also choose a<br />
piece with the authentic local Adriatic coral. The Konavle<br />
loop earrings, known as “ Verizice’ are also a nice memento.<br />
Women would pass these earrings down from generation<br />
to generation. In our boutique you can also find<br />
more modern, unique designs all of which are handmade<br />
by local artists (including myself)! For the guys, I would<br />
suggest taking home a Croata tie, or a bottle of local wine.<br />
DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend<br />
as a “must-try” for visitors?<br />
Simona: I think that all visitors should definitely try the<br />
oysters at ‘Bota Sare.’ These oysters are from Mali Ston and<br />
are known to be amongst the best in the world! If you<br />
have a sweet tooth, try the Dubrovnik ‘Rozata’.<br />
DIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee<br />
or go out at night?<br />
Simona: I like to go for drinks along the water. During the<br />
day, especially at sunset, I suggest having a cocktail at the<br />
cave bar ‘More’ in Uvala Lapad (make sure to check out<br />
the cave!) If you are in the Old Town, then I would recommend<br />
‘Buza’ Bar. If you would like to try the delicious local<br />
wines, then ‘D’Vino’ wine bar is the place to go.<br />
DIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Dubrovnik?<br />
Simona: During the summer season when Dubrovnik<br />
gets busy, I like to escape from the crowds by taking a<br />
short boat ride to the island of Lokrum… Pack yourself<br />
a little picnic and you are sure to find a secluded place<br />
26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants<br />
Fish Restaurant Photo Archives<br />
Croatian<br />
Dubravka<br />
Enjoy your breakfast while the sun rises over the walls of<br />
Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes throughout<br />
the day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza Brsalje<br />
with Nautika, and has a splendid view of the Lovrijenac,<br />
Minčeta and Bokar fortresses, and a peek of the deep blue<br />
beyond the walls.QA-2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19,<br />
nautika@du.t-com.hr, www.dubravka1836.hr. Open<br />
08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 160kn). PiAUGBW<br />
Kopun<br />
Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the<br />
Jesuit Church, this restaurant features food from all across<br />
Croatia, and when we say all over, we mean all over; every<br />
notable region is represented on the menu. As their name<br />
suggests their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and<br />
me, and they also have local beer on tap.QC-4, Poljana<br />
Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099<br />
212 17 51, 099 201 51 52, <strong>info</strong>@restaurantkopun.com,<br />
www.restaurantkopun.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 -<br />
220kn). PJAGBW<br />
Mimoza<br />
In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100<br />
meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle<br />
your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly<br />
without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace,<br />
shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place<br />
to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian<br />
dishes. Delivery is available.QJ-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika<br />
9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr,<br />
www.esculap-teo.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn).<br />
PiTAEGBW<br />
Orhan<br />
Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it’s like something<br />
out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of<br />
houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore,<br />
a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at<br />
reasonable prices.QK-3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20)<br />
41 41 83/(+385-) 091 725 51 09, <strong>info</strong>@restaurant-orhan.<br />
com, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:30.<br />
(50 - 200kn). PJAGBW<br />
Lady Pi-Pi<br />
Wine and dine whilst overlooking the grand walls of Dubrovnik<br />
and sea. Large platters for fish and meat devotees<br />
are jammed with goodies and the food is cooked in front<br />
of you on an outdoor terrace with an open fire. The cuisine<br />
is freshly prepped and prices are fair.QC-1, Peline bb.<br />
Open 09:00 - 23:00 and depending on weather conditions.<br />
(65 - 150kn). JAB<br />
Taverna Nostromo<br />
The food here is the subject of much praise among Dubrovnik’s<br />
citizens, and the service is fantastic. The taverna<br />
has a casual feel while the restaurant upstairs is the<br />
essence of modern refinement.QI-2, Obala Stjepana<br />
Radića 38 (Hotel Petka), tel. (+385-20) 41 05 24/(+385-<br />
20) 41 05 25, gastro@hotelpetka.hr, www.hotelpetka.<br />
hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 120kn). PAGBW<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 27
Restaurants<br />
Aquarius hotel&restaurant<br />
Lapad Bay - Mata Vodopica 4a<br />
20 000 Dubrovnik<br />
Zoe<br />
Zoe is an excellent place at which to sample choice local<br />
food on a lovely sea-facing terrace. As well as grilled<br />
fish pure-and-simple there’s a healthy sprinkling of traditional<br />
country recipes, such as roast duck breast, or<br />
stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded frogs’ legs<br />
or risotto with boletus mushrooms will probably suffice<br />
as a lunchtime main course.QF-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, <strong>info</strong>@importanneresort.com,<br />
www.importanneresort.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 -<br />
150kn). PALGBW<br />
International<br />
Bistro San Francesco<br />
If you’re looking for a traditional Italian meal then San Francesco<br />
is the place to go. They offer classic Italian meals, such<br />
as pasta, pasta and more pasta, as well as delicious fish and<br />
meat dishes. Located in a quiet and cozy side street away<br />
from the hustle and bustle of Stradun, the red-and-white<br />
checkered tablecloths and pictures of Italy and well-known<br />
Italians creates an authentic Italian-feel to the place.QC-2,<br />
Vetranićeva 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 11, FRANCAVILLA.<br />
DU@GMAIL.COM. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. TJAB<br />
Gusta me<br />
This small restaurant sits just above the Ploče Gate and has<br />
a pleasant, if somewhat muted, view of the City walls at<br />
night. Like most restaurants here it has a sizeable outdoor<br />
terrace, which is excellently sheltered so that bad weather<br />
28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
p: +385 20 456 111<br />
e: sales@hotel-aquarius.net<br />
w: www.hotel-aquarius.net<br />
need not force you indoors. The menu has a strong selection<br />
of Croatian wines and their food would suit a vegan<br />
as well as any carnivore.QE-1, Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20)<br />
42 00 13, gustame.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@gmail.com. Open 08:30 -<br />
24:00. (50 - 150kn). PAGBXW<br />
Incredible India<br />
Authentic Indian cuisine has finally made its way to Dubrovnik!<br />
Located on a narrow side street off of Stradun,<br />
this restaurant offers a cozy atmosphere between the cool<br />
stone walls. The orange coloured walls, decorated with<br />
pictures of India, create a traditional Indian feel. They offer<br />
dishes from all over the Indian subcontinent and use only<br />
the freshest ingredients. Enjoy some chicken tandoori and<br />
prawn masala with a side of saffron rice or garlic naan. To<br />
drink, try some traditional Indian masala tea or sweet lassi.<br />
Reservations are recommended ahead of time as seats fill<br />
up quickly.QC-2, Vetranićeva 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 27 43.<br />
Open 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
Korean Restaurant Onofrio<br />
Craving some Korean food during your stay in Dubrovnik?<br />
Then stop by the Korean Restaurant, located right by the<br />
famous Onofrio fountain at the entrance to the city. They<br />
offer delicious Korean dishes, such as Spicy Pork BBQ, Spicy<br />
Stir-Fried Squid, Spicy Braised Chicken and many more. Enjoy<br />
your meal outdoors on the cool smooth stones of the<br />
Old City or indoors in the cozy interior of the restaurant.<br />
QB-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385-) 099 669 06<br />
58. JABW<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants<br />
La Castile<br />
This restaurant is part of the Royal Princess Hotel and<br />
offers a variety of top-quality local seafood and meat<br />
dishes. Each classy and sophisticated dish is made using<br />
the freshest ingredients and can be savoured with<br />
a local or foreign wine. Enjoy this delicious meal while<br />
overlooking the amazing Adriatic Sea. At this restaurant,<br />
you’re in for a real treat!QF-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, <strong>info</strong>@importanneresort.com,<br />
www.importanneresort.com. Open 06:30 - 23:00. (120<br />
- 150kn). PiAGBXW<br />
Lucin kantun<br />
“Lucy’s Corner” is a cosy little place just off Stradun, all in<br />
sunshine yellow and with wooden furnishings, and a rustic<br />
open kitchen where you can watch the chef at work.<br />
He cooks up tapas and Mediterranean dishes, plus there’s<br />
a nice selection of desserts.QB-2, Od Sigurate bb, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 32 10 03. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (75 - 150kn).<br />
PJAGBW<br />
Porat Bar & Grill<br />
Located in the Gruž Harbour, this classy and modern restaurant<br />
has a variety of delicious dishes to choose from<br />
on their menu. They offer various soups and salads, gourmet<br />
burgers, grilled steaks, as well as fresh “Catch of the<br />
Day” fish, all artfully presented. It’s the perfect spot for an<br />
evening out with your friends and family.QH-1, Obala<br />
Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, <strong>info</strong>@porat<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com,<br />
www.porat-<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com. Open<br />
11:00–23:00. (25 - 625kn). iTABS<br />
Restaurant 360°<br />
If this review were to merely say ‘WOW!’ then it would be<br />
doing this restaurant a great injustice. 360° is designed for<br />
couples, not for larger groups, so it maintains a wonderful<br />
Magellan<br />
The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural<br />
light that floods through huge windows on all four sides.<br />
The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in modern<br />
paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most<br />
important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made;<br />
everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service<br />
is first-class.QI-3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35<br />
94, uo.madison@du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:30. (52 -<br />
140kn). PAULEGBXSW<br />
Pantarul<br />
A popular spot for the locals to frequent, you must try this<br />
delectable restaurant during your visit. They offer delicious<br />
appetizers like spring rolls, quiches or steak tartare. As well,<br />
delightful risottos and homemade pasta dishes are just<br />
a few of the choices for a main course. As an additional<br />
bonus, they’re always adding new and fun meals to the<br />
menu. Tastefully decorated, the friendly staff and warm<br />
environment will leave you with a satisfied experience.<br />
QKralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33 34 86, pantarul@<br />
pantarul.com, www.pantarul.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00,<br />
18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (60 - 130kn). PAGW<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 29
Restaurants<br />
air of serenity even when full. From the main room which<br />
is set deep into the City walls, to the outdoor terraces<br />
which look out over the harbour. Their wine cellar alone<br />
is worth in excess of 1 million Euros, and that alone should<br />
be all you need to know about 360°.QE-2, Sv.Dominika<br />
bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 22, <strong>info</strong>@360<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com,<br />
www.360<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com. Open 19:00 - 23:00. Closed<br />
Mon. (190 - 350kn). PJAGBXW<br />
Taj Mahal<br />
You guessed it, the Old Town’s only Bosnian restaurant,<br />
where you can enjoy good grilled meats including<br />
čevapčići - shish kebab. Try one of the pite pies (we love the<br />
spinach one). Sweet tooths will love baklava, others will fall<br />
into a sugar-induced coma! Also at Iva Vojnovića 14, Hotel<br />
Lero.QC-3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/<br />
(+385-) 098 983 26 20, tajmahaldbk@gmail.com. Open<br />
10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). TA6GBSW<br />
Taverna Otto<br />
This charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent<br />
of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more<br />
admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and<br />
excellent food. We especially recommend the onion soup,<br />
pepper and tuna steaks and chocolate soufflé. But whatever<br />
you choose, you can’t go wrong.QI-2, Nikole Tesle<br />
8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, <strong>info</strong>@tavernaotto.com, www.<br />
tavernaotto.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />
19:00 - 23:00. (80 - 120kn). PAGBXW<br />
Mediterranean<br />
Amfora<br />
While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern<br />
the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of<br />
a distinct Mediterranean feel - very Roman indeed. Prices<br />
here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, either<br />
New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high.<br />
You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you’re based in<br />
or near the Old City then you should not think twice about<br />
jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.<br />
QH-1, Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19. Open<br />
11:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (60 - 130kn). PAG<br />
BXW<br />
Klarisa<br />
Just two years operating in Dubrovnik you could be forgiven<br />
for thinking that they’d always been here. All their<br />
food, as you would expect, is sourced locally, and during<br />
the summer months you’ll be pleased to note that much<br />
of the fish is off-menu, because they can never know what<br />
the boats will bring in - that’s how fresh their fish is. There’s<br />
a tavern attached, so if you’re waiting for a table you can<br />
always grab yourself a cool, tall, glass of pivo.QB-2, Poljana<br />
Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, mladen@<br />
klarisa.hr, www.klarisa-<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com. Open 10:00<br />
- 24:00. (50 - 220kn). PTJA6UIEG<br />
BXSW<br />
30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants<br />
Komarda<br />
A wonderful location by the water’s edge right by the old<br />
part of the city. Komarda has large stone terraces with<br />
plenty of greenery, where you can enjoy the Mediterranean<br />
cooking and a great view of the city walls.QL-2, Frana<br />
Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93, restorankomarda@<br />
gmail.com, www.komarda.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60<br />
- 150kn). ABW<br />
Nautika<br />
The place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking<br />
the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior<br />
- your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative<br />
cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings.<br />
Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik<br />
dining.QA-2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, nautika@<br />
du.t-com.hr, www.nautikarestaurant.com. Open 18:00<br />
- 24:00. (257 - 398kn). PJAGBXW<br />
Panorama<br />
Whichever way you climb Mount Srđ, on foot or by cable<br />
car, we think you deserve a little treat. This restaurant, right<br />
by the top cable car station, has great big windows offering<br />
a spectacular view over Dubrovnik and its coastline.<br />
The food is excellent. Bring your sunglasses!QK,L-1, Srđ<br />
Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091<br />
486 00 47, nautika@du.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
(70 - 250kn). PAGBXW<br />
Restaurant Klarisa Archives<br />
Ragusa 2<br />
This charming family-run restaurant located within the<br />
side streets of Dubrovnik has seating available outdoors<br />
under a large canopy on the narrow street or indoors in a<br />
plush and aristocracy-like environment. They offer traditional<br />
mediterranean seafood dishes, such as fresh oysters<br />
and mussels, customary appetizers of pršut and cheese,<br />
and much, much more.QC-2, Zamanjina 12, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 16 61, ragusa2rudenjak@gmail.com. Open 08:00<br />
- 24:00. (60 - 190kn). PiAGBXW<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 31
Restaurants<br />
Vapor<br />
The Bellevue Hotel restaurant is perfectly located near<br />
the city centre and commands an amazing view of its<br />
nearby surroundings. Food includes Dalmatian cuisine<br />
with an international twist, this vivacious diversity together<br />
with an excellent wine list is sure to satisfy the<br />
more refined tongue.QI-3, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. (+385-20)<br />
33 08 88, www.alh.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (90 - 250kn).<br />
PAGBXW<br />
Zuzori<br />
This little restaurant is tucked away in one of the narrow<br />
streets of the Old town. The attractive interior is decorated<br />
with a vintage touch in shades of violet. Here they serve<br />
Mediterranean food with a strong Italian accent!QC-3,<br />
Cvjete Zuzorić 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 76, <strong>info</strong>@zuzori.<br />
com, www.zuzori.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (90 - 230kn).<br />
PJAGBXW<br />
Konoba<br />
Bistro Popret<br />
For a delicious traditional Mediterranean meal, don’t miss<br />
out on a visit to Bistro Popret. They serve homemade<br />
pršut, cheese, lamb and octopus, as well as delicious<br />
rožata or strudel for dessert. This relaxing atmosphere is<br />
located in Gornji Brgat, a small village on a hill 5km from<br />
Dubrovnik. It’s an ideal spot for large gatherings and celebrations,<br />
such as a confirmation, first communion or small<br />
wedding party.QPut Hrvatskih branitelja 40, Gornji<br />
Brgat, tel. (+385-) 095 198 92 63. Open 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
Dalmatino<br />
Found within the labyrinth of side streets in the Old City,<br />
this restaurant has added a unique twist to traditional<br />
Dalmatian cuisine. Try some Fisherman’s Stew, Truffle<br />
Pasta or Grilled Calamari with Dalmatian Sauce, from the<br />
appetizing menu, in this warm environment of orange<br />
and brown hues, resembling rustic Tuscany. To satisfy<br />
your palate, there is an extensive list of wines to choose<br />
from to sip along with your meal. For dessert, don’t miss<br />
out on trying the Chocolate Fondant, for a small taste of<br />
heaven.QC-3, Miha Pracata 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70,<br />
<strong>info</strong>@dalmatino-<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com, www.dalmatino<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com.<br />
Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 180kn).<br />
PAGBXW<br />
Jezuite<br />
Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns<br />
and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church.<br />
Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes<br />
or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical<br />
Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels.QC-4, Poljana<br />
Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73,<br />
konobajezuite@gmail.com, <strong>dubrovnik</strong>restaurant.<br />
webs.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn).<br />
JABW<br />
Lokanda Peskarija<br />
Delightfully old-fashioned in a seafaring style, Lokanda,<br />
right on the old Ploče harbour, offers simple fish dishes<br />
at low prices. Don’t miss the fried small fish or the black<br />
squid ink risotto, and be prepared to wait for a table.<br />
QD-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 50, www.meaculpa.hr.<br />
Open 11:00 - 24:00. From July Open 11:00 -<br />
01:00. (70 - 90kn). PAGBXW<br />
Fish Restaurant Archives<br />
Konaovski Dvori Archives<br />
32 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
Pupo<br />
Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of<br />
well-prepared seafood dishes and steaks as well as a ‘walk<br />
on a wok side’ as a good choice for a light lunch. Outdoor<br />
seating immersed in the Old city, local ingredients,<br />
wines and tempting homemade cakes make this value for<br />
money - worth visiting.QC-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 35 55, viktor@pupo<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com, www.<br />
pupo<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 190kn).<br />
JAGBXW<br />
Rozario<br />
On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant<br />
stands out from its neighbours for its family-run<br />
atmosphere and homestyle cooking - that’s why you’ll<br />
often find the locals lunching here.QD-2, Prijeko 1, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 098 89 38 54, 099 315 65 50,<br />
konoba.rozario@gmail.com, www.konoba-rozario.hr.<br />
Open 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 168kn). PiAGBX<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants<br />
Seafood<br />
Barba<br />
Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your<br />
chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for<br />
a unique street food experience. As well, try some fried<br />
oysters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot<br />
for all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit<br />
and relax on a cozy bar stool indoors. QBoškovićeva 5, tel.<br />
(+385-) 091 205 34 88, barba.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@gmail.com.<br />
Open 10:00 - 02:00. (30 - 59kn). PAGW<br />
Kamenice<br />
Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge<br />
portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a<br />
simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr<br />
Gundulić.QC-3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />
36 82. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (58 - 123kn). JABS<br />
Levanat<br />
This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of a<br />
beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so inclined<br />
to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily focused on<br />
Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their specialties are actually<br />
made from scratch, meaning a potential wait of up<br />
to an hour. However the views from the terraced area are<br />
breathtaking and there is an attached café for those simply<br />
looking to kick back and relax.QF-2, Nika i Meda Pucića<br />
15, tel. (+385-20) 43 53 52, restoran.levanat@gmail.com.<br />
Open 11:00 - 23:30. (80 - 160kn). PAGBXW<br />
Orsan<br />
The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation<br />
as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food.<br />
The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty<br />
of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine<br />
traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 43 68 22, ankora.doo@du.t-com.hr. Open 11:00 -<br />
23:00. (50 - 200kn). PAGBXW<br />
Oyster & Sushi bar Bota<br />
This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and it’s<br />
very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is every bit<br />
as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant staff was<br />
exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful in explaining<br />
the items on the menu. The restaurant itself is entirely<br />
outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a nice view of<br />
the hustle and bustle just below. Ideally suited to a place<br />
for a quick bite, or a relaxing afternoon repast.QD-4, Od<br />
Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr.<br />
Open 09:00 - 23:00. (28 - 135kn). PJAGBXW<br />
Proto<br />
Nautika’s little brother is not only a little cheaper but also<br />
has a wonderful location just off Stradun. Superb food -<br />
mainly seafood, but meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely<br />
romantic ambience and friendly service make this a strong<br />
contender for top dining spot.QC-2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 32 34, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.<br />
hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn). PiAG<br />
BXW<br />
36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants<br />
Japanese<br />
Shizuku Japanese Cuisine<br />
Welcome to an Asian fusion experience in Dubrovnik! Located<br />
in a residential area in Lapad, this restaurant is a little<br />
harder to find. Open only in the evenings, Shizuku serves<br />
only dinner and offers maki rolls, nigiri and sashimi along<br />
with a wide variety of other Japanese dishes. To quench<br />
your thirst, try some Japanese beer or sake. A popular<br />
dining spot, the tables fill up quickly, so make sure to<br />
call ahead for a reservation.QH-2, Kneza Domagoja 1F,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 31 14 93, shizuku.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@hotmail.<br />
com. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (100 - 300kn).<br />
PAGBW<br />
Vegetarian<br />
Nishta<br />
Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small<br />
haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegetarian<br />
cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel,<br />
curry, soups, salad bar and much more. A lot of thought<br />
has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you<br />
arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on<br />
the joke.QC-2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, <strong>info</strong>@<br />
nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com.<br />
Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (63 - 85kn). JAG<br />
BXSW<br />
Breakfast<br />
Bistro Dubrava<br />
Located right on Stradun, overlooking the St. Blaise<br />
Church, this is a great place to grab some early morning<br />
breakfast, as they offer various omelettes, as well as jam<br />
and toast. They also serve a light lunch and dinner, along<br />
with homemade cakes and ice cream for dessert.QC-2,<br />
Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 29. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (40 -<br />
55kn). PAGBXW<br />
Komarda<br />
Get the day off to a good start with a hearty breakfast:<br />
here you can feast on everything from toast and croissants<br />
through rožata (the local crème caramel), to a variety of<br />
scrambled egg dishes, Dalmatian, continental and children’s<br />
breakfasts - all at reasonable prices.QK,L-2, Frana<br />
Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93/(+385-) 098 42 82 39,<br />
restorankomarda@gmail.com, www.komarda.hr. Open<br />
08:00 - 24:00. (12 - 55kn). ABW<br />
Pupica<br />
Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which could<br />
suit almost any European town, city, or village. Their slogan<br />
states that ‘life without breakfast, is like a day without<br />
morning’. So before you get ready to ‘head out’ on your daily<br />
adventure, omelettes, toasts, as well as cakes can only do<br />
you good!QC-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54<br />
54, viktor@pupo<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com, www.pupo<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.<br />
com. Open 07:00 - 24:00.<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 37
Restaurants<br />
Wine bars<br />
D’vino<br />
In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place<br />
for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on<br />
what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of<br />
locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in halfsozzled<br />
conversation on the stone steps outside. Along<br />
with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such<br />
as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a bit<br />
of that for a Dalmatian sensation.QC-2, Palmotićeva 4a,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, sasha@dvino.net, www.dvino.<br />
net. Open 10:00 - 02:00. JAGBW<br />
Razonoda Wine Bar<br />
This wine and Croatian tapas bar is one of the newest additions<br />
to the Old Town. They offer the finest Croatian wines,<br />
from the Pelješac region in southern Croatia, to Istra in<br />
the northwest and Slavonia in the northeast. As a snack,<br />
munch on some pršut, cheese or marinated anchovies.<br />
There’s also plenty of unique drink options for all non-wine<br />
lovers to try, such as unpasteurized and unfiltered San Servolo<br />
beer rich in vitamin-B complex, tea made from olive<br />
leaves or Chemex coffee from the world renowned Eliscaffe<br />
in Zagreb.QC-3, Od puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41<br />
04, winebar@thepucicpalace.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
PAGW<br />
Light bites<br />
Buffet Škola<br />
A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some<br />
tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and<br />
sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made<br />
with home baked bread.QC-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. Open 08:30 - 24:00.<br />
(14 - 30kn). PJNGBW<br />
38 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants<br />
Cavtat<br />
Bugenvila<br />
A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the<br />
waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating<br />
the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give<br />
this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is decided<br />
based on the fresh ingredients available, as they use<br />
only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal homegrown<br />
vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their spectacular<br />
dishes, so the menu is constantly changing. An additional<br />
plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala Ante<br />
Starčevića 9, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 49, bugenvila.<br />
cavtat@gmail.com, www.bugenvila.eu/. Open 12:00 -<br />
16:15, 18:30 - 22:45. (40 - 260kn). TALB<br />
SYMBOL key<br />
Galija<br />
A strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent<br />
steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including<br />
shrimps in honey and sea urchins - have a go, if you think<br />
you’re hard enough! Great terraces and is right on the Cavtat<br />
waterfront.QVuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85<br />
66, mislav.burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. Open<br />
11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn). PAEGBXW<br />
Leut<br />
One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat,<br />
this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this<br />
beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos.<br />
They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and<br />
seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20)<br />
47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, <strong>info</strong>@restaurant-leut.<br />
com, www.restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70<br />
- 250kn). PAGBXW<br />
P Air conditioning<br />
T Child-friendly<br />
B Outside seating<br />
S Take away<br />
W Wifi<br />
A Credit cards accepted<br />
U Facilities for the disabled<br />
L Guarded parking<br />
6 Pet-friendly<br />
J Old town location<br />
Koločep<br />
Villa Ruža<br />
The sunset from the terrace is unforgettable as the Mediterranean<br />
Sea reflects in front of you. Add to that local<br />
Mediterranean specialties served amidst landscaped<br />
stone, olive and pine trees surroundings. Ferry lines from<br />
the Gruž Port or via private transfer.QDonje Čelo bb,<br />
Koločep Island, tel. (+385-20) 75 70 30/(+385-) 098 44<br />
33 82, <strong>info</strong>@villa-ruza.com, www.villa-ruza.com. Open<br />
12:00 - 24:00. (120 - 190kn). ABXW<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 39
Restaurants<br />
Konavle<br />
Konavoska brda<br />
Located within the hills of Konavle, this recently opened<br />
restaurant is the perfect spot for a delicious traditional<br />
meal in a quaint village. Offering meat ispod peke and fish<br />
dishes with baked potatoes and hearty warm homemade<br />
soup, the trip is definitely worth it. The outdoor tables are<br />
arranged in a circle with a hay roof covering, which creates<br />
a rustic feel to the old-fashioned cozy stone atmosphere.<br />
QStravča, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 79 00 03/(+385-) 099<br />
674 57 92, konavoska.brda@gmail.com. Open 12:00 -<br />
23:00. (50 - 90kn). ALBXW<br />
Konavoski dvori<br />
Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta<br />
(“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and<br />
feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout)<br />
served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You<br />
may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.<br />
QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099<br />
251 71 58, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr.<br />
Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). ALGBXW<br />
Konavoski komin<br />
Set in the lush rural region of Konavle, the stone terrace<br />
has a fantastic view. Everything is home grown and full of<br />
flavour: try juicy meats cooked under an iron bell heaped<br />
with embers or charcoal grilled fish, a garden salad and<br />
home made apple strudel.QVelji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 47 96 07, smilja.siljug@hotmail.com.<br />
Open 12:00 - 24:00. (45 - 100kn). ALGBXW<br />
Lastovo<br />
Triton<br />
A frequent stop on yachting trips: there’s a mooring<br />
right outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman<br />
Tonči has a very special way with island-grown capers.<br />
Fish carpaccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad,<br />
home made Mediterranean herb rakija - it’s all the stuff of<br />
dreams!QZaklopatica 15, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 11<br />
61/(+385-) 098 177 80 65, <strong>info</strong>@triton.hr, www.triton.<br />
hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). iNGBXW<br />
Mlini<br />
Konoba Marinero<br />
If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa<br />
Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini,<br />
where you’ll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking<br />
the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are<br />
carefully prepared by the lady owner - a supremely relaxing<br />
treat.QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com.<br />
hr, www.vivado.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn).<br />
ALGBW<br />
Ston<br />
Bota Šare<br />
Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but the<br />
shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present<br />
stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours.<br />
If you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place<br />
to sample numerous dishes containing cooked little critters.<br />
Excellent.QMali Ston bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44<br />
82/(+385-) 091 175 44 79, botamaliston@gmail.com,<br />
www.bota-sare.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn).<br />
PALGBXW<br />
Vila Koruna<br />
The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives,<br />
cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms<br />
and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art<br />
features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded.<br />
Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, vila-koruna@<br />
du.t-com.hr, www.vila-koruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00.<br />
(60 - 150kn). PJALGBXW<br />
Konaovski Dvori Archives<br />
40 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
Zaton<br />
Orsan Gverović<br />
This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and<br />
has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening<br />
in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival<br />
of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows<br />
at the edge of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton Mali, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 89 12 67, restoran@gverovic-orsan.hr, www.<br />
gverovic-orsan.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (110 - 200kn).<br />
A6LGBXW<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Local Flavour<br />
Local dishes<br />
Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connections<br />
across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very much<br />
based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world. Classic<br />
Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic, olive oil<br />
and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or bay leaf if the<br />
chef is on the adventurous side. A true Mediterranean experience,<br />
you might say.<br />
This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a<br />
double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city’s menus can<br />
seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what you eat<br />
is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local. The simplicity<br />
of the preparation lets the flavours of high quality ingredients<br />
do the work. It’s hard to beat a good piece of meat<br />
or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad freshly picked from a<br />
hinterland garden.<br />
In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imaginative”<br />
cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything but<br />
the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the result<br />
can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as Financial<br />
Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained bitterly in<br />
summer 2012, it’s hard find an authentic bouillabaisse or ratatouille<br />
these days. Peasant food gains elevated status and<br />
loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably plentiful and<br />
full of flavour, and all the better for it.<br />
So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you’d like to escape the<br />
grilled fish – grilled meat – pasta trinity? The best answer is<br />
the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat at<br />
home.<br />
Let’s start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local version<br />
of everyone’s favourite: spaghetti bolognaise. However, with<br />
hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince) and fresh<br />
tomatoes, it becomes something special. You’ll see big vats of<br />
the stuff served on the street at Carnival time in February. But<br />
even on the hottest day, add a crisp green salad and you’ve<br />
the perfect lunch.<br />
A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is pašticada.<br />
There are many variations, but generally a lean piece of beef<br />
is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked bacon and marinated<br />
in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little orange and<br />
lemon. It’s cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes with prunes,<br />
and served with soft gnocci.<br />
A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region is<br />
konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats (pork,<br />
mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens and potato.<br />
When finished, the meat is served on a plate and the<br />
smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the soupy liquid<br />
and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from the 16th century;<br />
for added historical effect substitute barley for potato.<br />
Fast forward to springtime when broad beans are ready for<br />
picking: try them cooked with smoked mutton, garlic, parsley<br />
and bacon fat.<br />
To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion northwards<br />
to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat yourself to<br />
Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters in the<br />
world, prepared in a million different ways. While you’re there,<br />
look out also for butarga (dried flathead mullet roe); there are<br />
a couple of families here who still prepare this rare delicacy.<br />
Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all<br />
kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventurers.<br />
Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an open fire? Eel<br />
cooked in a rich brudet sauce? Frog risotto, perhaps? It’s the<br />
perfect end to a watery day’s safari.<br />
To accompany your traditional-style meal you’ll want a<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 41
Local Flavour<br />
drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it’s easy.<br />
The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most<br />
prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup. Redolent of<br />
the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they’re high in<br />
flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper<br />
younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alternative.<br />
For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the same<br />
thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but it’s pretty<br />
intense so can go with meats as well as fish.<br />
And to finish off, you’ll see rožata on many a menu: it’s the<br />
local version of crème caramel. Not so frequently spotted is<br />
stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think there’s<br />
no better way than to finish your meal than some fragrant<br />
figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a handful of almonds<br />
and a liquer made from oranges, mandarins or rose<br />
petals.<br />
42 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
Pelješac wines<br />
Those who do not know much about Croatia can be forgiven<br />
for not realising that wine is as much a part of life here as it<br />
is Italy, a country which sits on the opposite side of the Adriatic<br />
Sea. In fact, wine has been a part of this region since the<br />
days of the Ancient Greeks, who had settled parts of Dalmatia<br />
in the 5th century BC, including the islands of Hvar, Vis, and<br />
Korčula (birth place to Marco Polo). In time, the Roman Empire<br />
expanded into Dalmatia - then peopled by the Illyrians -<br />
bringing with it more modernised methods of cultivation, and<br />
under Roman rule Dalmatian wine saw itself being exported<br />
to other parts of the Mediterranean, and beyond. Eventually<br />
the Croats would come to live here, and they saw fit to further<br />
expand the region’s wine production. Croatian wines would<br />
be welcome at the Austrian and Hungarian courts, and with<br />
many a farmer relying on his own vines to keep him in wine<br />
then you could be assured that quality levels were kept quite<br />
high.<br />
The country’s history being what it is it’s perhaps not such a<br />
surprise to discover that some of the wineries are not so well<br />
known, even nationally, but it won’t be long before all of that<br />
will change. Here, we’ll look some of the more tempting local<br />
wines.<br />
Plavac Mali, or Little Blue, is a variety of red grape closely related<br />
to Zinfandel and Primitivo. It is grown almost exclusively<br />
on the western side of the island of Hvar and the Pelješac peninsula.<br />
The wine it produces tends towards a deep purple-red<br />
colour, high in tannins, extract, and alcohol. Normally presenting<br />
a rich, dry taste, the better vintages will be more mild and<br />
sweet. Those who know such things recommend that such<br />
reds be enjoyed with red meat dishes, black olives, and salted<br />
anchovies. Dingač is a variety of Plavac Mali and is considered<br />
by many to be the Holy Grail of local wines, and can only be<br />
grown in this region as a result of very specific geographical<br />
conditions. Such is its importance to Dalmatia that in 1961 it<br />
fell under the protection of the Geneva Convention, the first<br />
Croatian wine to do so. It is of a deep ruby red colour, of an<br />
exceptionally unique and luxurious bouquet, a nicely accentuated<br />
aroma, and a harmonious fullness of taste. Dingač was<br />
joined in 1967 by Postup, a top-quality red wine created from<br />
the grapes of the Plavac Mali variety, exclusively from the loca<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Local Flavour<br />
Adriatic Photo Service Archives<br />
tion of Postup, which is on the southern slopes of the Pelješac<br />
peninsula. Postup is a darker red, with a full, harmonious taste<br />
with a touch of crispness.<br />
Now, while it’s true that Dalmatians prefer red wine to white<br />
(the opposite would be the case in Croatia overall), there are<br />
more than a few high quality whites available. Rukatac, however,<br />
is the gleaming jewel in Dalmatia’s crown. An endangered<br />
grape to be sure, it is indigenous to the peninsula. It can<br />
be found from Prevlaka to the Croatian coast, and again on the<br />
islands of Korčula and Lastovo. Wines made from rukatac are<br />
ideal for dessert wines, known as prošek. It is often greenish to<br />
golden colour with an extremely pleasant bouquet. Like most<br />
other whites, this is best while it is still young to drink during<br />
the first or possibly second year.<br />
There are other producers on the peninsula of course, and<br />
it would be remiss to neglect names such as Korta Katarina,<br />
Skaramuča, Madirazza, Matuško, to list but a few. The area’s<br />
wineries are generally inclined towards a wholly welcoming<br />
atmosphere, with Udruga pelješki vinski puti (Association of<br />
Pelješac Wine Trails) and Plavac mali being just two associations<br />
which put considerable effort into ensuring grape quality<br />
and the promotion of the peninsula’s wine growers and<br />
wine trails.<br />
Detailing any one of the many wine trails would take too<br />
much time and too many print inches. Needless to say that<br />
any tourist may put their fate in the hands of a seasoned local<br />
or tour guide and take advice from them - or put the effort in<br />
and plan your own tour of this Croatian exclave. More than a<br />
few tour operators will bring buses and boats onto the peninsula<br />
from Split and Trogir, and if you’re time is flexible enough<br />
then it’s well worth taking the day to get as many wineries and<br />
vineyards in as possible. Make sure you find yourself near Ston,<br />
because you’ll want to sample the oysters as well as the wine.<br />
WINE TRAILS & GASTRO TOURISM<br />
Wine trails, or roads, are an important economic tool for any<br />
region such as the Pelješac peninsula. When you’re not only<br />
removed from the centre of the continent but from your own<br />
country too, you must do all in your power to ensure that your<br />
tourism sector is doing its best to attract - and keep - as many<br />
visitors as possible.<br />
Wine trails are not a new concept as well worn roads emerged<br />
over centuries of use as producers moved their wine to market.<br />
The more worn the road the more popular - it’s reasonable<br />
to assume - the wines which are produced within its vineyards.<br />
Alongside these wine trails a healthy gastro-tourism sector is<br />
developing; after all, you do need to eat if you’re going to be<br />
drinking several glasses of wine over the course of a day. With<br />
Dalmatia offering a variety of local and Mediterranean, you’re<br />
never likely to try the same dish twice even if you’re dining out<br />
each night of a holiday.<br />
Local recipes<br />
Orancini<br />
Peel an orange, preferably unwaxed, organically grown<br />
(you don’t want pesticides on the skin). Cut the peel<br />
into strips about 3-5cm long and 0.5cm wide. Pop the<br />
peel into a dish and cover with water. Leave to stand<br />
for two days. Put the strips and water in a pan, bring<br />
to the boil then drain off the water. Add sugar in an<br />
amount equal to the weight of the orange strips. Stir in<br />
the pan with just a drop of water until the water evaporates.<br />
Again, leave to drain, then roll the strips in sugar.<br />
Leave to dry.<br />
Bruštulane mjendule<br />
Sugared almonds to you and me. Weigh out some almonds,<br />
pop them in a pan with an equal amount of<br />
sugar. For every 50g of almonds add a dessert spoon of<br />
water. Warm the pan on a medium heat, constantly stirring<br />
until all the sugar melts, then solidifies and sticks<br />
to the almonds. Shake onto a plate and leave to cool<br />
before attacking.<br />
Kotonjata<br />
From Dubrovnik in the south, it’s a strongly flavoured<br />
dessert that looks like a jelly. No friends, it’s not a jelly<br />
at all but is instead the wiggly product of a sweet and<br />
bitter fruit called dunja. Wise old grandmas often place<br />
a number of these yellow guys all around the house to<br />
ward off the raunchier stenches that can build up from<br />
time to time.<br />
Mantala<br />
A purple - coloured cake served with sweet black syrup,<br />
almonds and cinnamon.<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 43
Local Flavour<br />
Korta Katarina Archives<br />
THE FOODIE‘S GUIDE<br />
23.06 Tuesday - 18.08 Tuesday<br />
Flavours of Pelješac<br />
If food and wine is right up your alley, then come on down<br />
to the Trpanj waterfront for a culinary delight! Rich local<br />
cuisine that is typically Mediterranean will be presented<br />
and tip top Pelješac wines will help wash the down the<br />
food. This serene fishing town is a tiny oasis and the Dalmatian<br />
music in the background makes for enchanting<br />
evenings.QTrpanj riva.<br />
19.07 Sunday<br />
Korčula Wine Festival - Black Island<br />
White Wines<br />
With a millennia old tradition of wine making, the island<br />
of Korčula is renowned above all for the quality of its white<br />
wines (Pošip and Rukatac), whereas among the reds the<br />
most popular is Plavac Mali. These wines are celebrated<br />
for their exquisite character, complexity, and accentuated<br />
aromas which reflect the Mediterranean sunshine,<br />
scents and tastes. So, to all wine connoisseurs, get ready to<br />
dabble!QKorčula, Korčula Island, www.visitkorcula.eu.<br />
25.07 Saturday<br />
Cipolijada<br />
Fishing for mullets (cipol) is a time-honoured tradition in<br />
the Neretva region. During the summer months, fishermen<br />
patiently sit along the banks of the green and clean<br />
Neretva River and catch this fish which can then be prepared<br />
into a variety of dishes. At the end of the summer a<br />
competition in catching mullets called ‘Cipolijada’ is held.<br />
The competition continues into the night with a “Fishing<br />
Night” of music and dancing, during which time the<br />
fish are prepared, cooked, and eaten.QMetković, www.<br />
tzmetkovic.hr.<br />
44 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
25.07 Saturday - 02.08 Sunday<br />
The 5th Pošip Days in Čara and Smokvica<br />
When wine is fine, nobody minds! And the towns of<br />
Smokvica and Cara on Korčula have a well-known tradition<br />
in wine growing and wine production dating from<br />
ancient Greek times. Pošip is among the most famous<br />
Croatian white wines. It is named after the authentic grape<br />
varieties only found in these areas. So if you happen to be<br />
close by, visit some of the wineries and feel free to partake<br />
in the art of wine tasting.QČara and Smokvica, Korčula<br />
island, www.visitkorcula.eu.<br />
01.08 Saturday<br />
Cabbage on tabak<br />
This traditional gastronomic evening event is held every<br />
summer on the 1st of August at the ‘Pod boriće beach’ in<br />
Vela Luka, next to the ferry port. It was named after an old<br />
proverb which claims that cabbage should be eaten on<br />
that very day. Food consists of cabbage - raštika (collard<br />
greens) and potatoes prepared in a traditional way, cooked<br />
and seasoned with olive oil. Grilled sardines, homemade<br />
cakes and wine are also on the table for all visitors, accompanied<br />
with live music.QPod boriće, Vela Luka.<br />
09.08 Sunday<br />
Makarunada<br />
This is an event in the village of Žrnovo (3km from the<br />
town of Korčula). It begins with a workshop on how to<br />
make ‘makaruni’, a particular home-made pasta native<br />
to the locals, then comes cooking for the masses as the<br />
food is served with a meaty sauce to all those gathered.<br />
Live outdoor entertainment is provided in an authentic<br />
Mediterranean atmosphere!QŽrnovo, Korčula, www.<br />
visitkorcula.eu. Starts at 19:00.<br />
03.09 Thursday - 06.09 Sunday<br />
Kinookus - The Food Film Festival<br />
The art of cinema offers a food frenzy as this international<br />
film festival preserves and promotes issues relating to<br />
healthy food, traditional recipes, food customs, tools, biodiversity,<br />
ecology, nutrition and more. As chefs can serve<br />
up mouth watering dishes, this festival serves up a smorgasbord<br />
of film and motion picture with this year’s theme<br />
being ‘Bread and wine’.QSton, Pelješac, kinookus@<br />
gmail.com, www.kinookus.com.hr.<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
02.10 Friday - 04.10 Sunday<br />
Festival of Jam and Marmalade<br />
Tender to your sweet tooth as you venture to the heart of<br />
the old town, on Stradun in fact and in front of St. Blaise’s<br />
Church. The festival will also serve as a tourist attraction<br />
since exhibitors will come from all Croatian counties and<br />
dressed in their traditional costumes, presenting their native<br />
delicacies, homemade jam and marmalade products.<br />
QSt. Blaise’s Church.<br />
Local Flavour<br />
23.10 Friday - 25.10 Sunday<br />
Good Food Festival<br />
Want to learn how to make the traditional Dubrovnik<br />
sweet ‘gulozece’ or have dinner with a famous chef? For<br />
three days Dubrovnik will be enthralled by pure culinary<br />
delights with events ranging from the presentation of<br />
food specialties of the Dubrovnik region to cooking workshops,<br />
wine tastings, and the promotion of cookbooks in<br />
English, ‘Eat & Walk’, a gastro tour and ‘Sweet Tooth Map’.<br />
QDubrovnik Old Town various locations.<br />
25.10 Sunday<br />
Lumblija Days<br />
Sweet bread called ‘Lumblija’ is certainly one of the more<br />
delicious traditions in Blato. Legend has it that its origins<br />
stem from the time of Napoleon. For the past four years,<br />
just before All Saints Day, a special event called the ‘Lumblija<br />
Days’ is held with an exhibition and competition for<br />
the making and tasting of the best ‘Lumblija’, which involves<br />
a dozen or so families from Blato who prepare this<br />
unique delicacy.QBlato, Island of Korčula.<br />
Become a wine<br />
connoisseur<br />
Dubrovnik - Wine recommendations<br />
A sommelier Jelena’s recommendations of which wines to<br />
tickle your taste buds!<br />
Winemaker Crvik, Konavle: Dubrovnik’s Malvasia TezoroA<br />
white wine, dry, mineral, fruity and full-bodied. A<br />
fantastic white from the Dubrovnik region and thanks to its<br />
rich character, it nicely complements food.<br />
Andro Crvik, winemaker: Pomet Plavac mali selection<br />
A great Plavac and highly recommended. Extremely fruity<br />
on the nose, shades of smoke and prunes emphasised.<br />
Complex, medium to strong in body, beautifully fresh and<br />
soft. Maintains a long lasting finish and has great potential<br />
for aging.<br />
Solana Ston Archives<br />
Dubrovački podrumi, Gruda: Dubrovački podrumi<br />
Plausus<br />
Plausus is a premium wine from Plavac mali, it is of exquisite<br />
elegance and fullness. Recognisable by the variety of aromas.<br />
Intense in flavour, nicely balanced, strong body and a<br />
rich long finish. A wine which demands powerful food. It’s<br />
a top quality indigenous wine and the most important red<br />
grape sort in Croatia.<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 45
Local Flavour<br />
If in the village Vid…<br />
A revelation in the Neretva County is the audaciously<br />
spiced fish stew made of frogs and eels which you can find<br />
at the restaurant named Mate and Đuđe, in Vid. Bring the<br />
mints!<br />
Povitica Cheesecake<br />
A typical cheesecake cake from the Vrbnik region weighing<br />
2kg whole! Here it is all in the process with the freshest<br />
local ingredients used which includes sheep milk cheese<br />
from the Krk Island. This one of a kind dessert can be found<br />
at the restaurant called ‘Nada’ (Vrbnik).<br />
Rab or Lošinj<br />
If you are staying on the islands of Rab or Lošinj then why<br />
not try their ala natural delicacy - dried octopus. You can<br />
even have it with scrambled eggs for breakfast, kid you<br />
not!<br />
Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board Archives<br />
Tips for hungry travellers<br />
Homemade makes for the best flavour of all! In this section,<br />
you will find the pure essence of gastronomy specific<br />
to the region, from age-old recipes prepared during the<br />
era of Kings and noble families to ordinary dishes that the<br />
Nona’s cook best.<br />
Baškotin<br />
A sheer rarity as you head to the Benedictine convent of<br />
St. Margarita on Pag. Tis here that for centuries they’ve<br />
been making baškotin, a kind of hard sweet toast which<br />
is the signature special monastery recipe. At 60kn per kilogramme,<br />
we’ll toast to that!<br />
Benkovačka vara<br />
Looking for some original food from the Zadar region,<br />
then why not try some Benkovac vara during the summer<br />
months. It is chickpeas cooked in water with kidney<br />
beans and sweet corn, very simple and served with olive<br />
oil. One of the places to find it is at the Pet bunara in<br />
Zadar.<br />
Cheese to please!<br />
Devotees to cheese on the fine pallet ought to try<br />
cheese made with sage, or rosemary immortelle as well<br />
as cheese aged in walnut leaves. The Magriž Cheese Factory<br />
is family run in Kornić, on the island of Krk, and can<br />
be found on Ulica 17. travnja 13, where they sell their<br />
products at their very doorstep.<br />
Have you ever eaten dormice?<br />
Roman emperors ate dormice (or puh in Croatian) which<br />
were popular appetisers in their day. The tradition continues<br />
in the tiny village of Dol, on the island of Brač. Konoba<br />
Toni is a tavern where they prepare dormice on a<br />
spit or if you find yourself in Fužine, Gorski Kotar around<br />
September, dormice goulash is the thumbs up.<br />
46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
Show us some mussels<br />
Ok seafood lovers, particularly those who love mussels!<br />
Drive to a place called Poljica, near Marina (the road to<br />
Split) and you can buy mussels per kg in shell farms, and<br />
then roast them on the grill which is finger lickn good!<br />
The island of Ist, ist good!<br />
Learn why Italian boaters often stop at the island of Ist for<br />
an authentic special called majolino!<br />
Try Pipi<br />
When in Split or parts of Dalmatia, look for the gassy fresh<br />
drink Pipi, a bubbly drink that you can only find in these<br />
parts and is mega popular. It is a fuse between Fanta and<br />
Miranda but original to Split. Lots of cafes sell it so bug the<br />
waiters and request a Pipi, it is perfect on a blistering hot<br />
summer day! If you can’t find it, look up Dalmacijavino in<br />
our Shopping category!<br />
Vis or Komiža bread?<br />
A dilemma that’s been debated for centuries is best to be<br />
solved on the island of Vis.<br />
What’s so salty…?<br />
When in Nin, head to the Nin Salt Works which produce<br />
salt that naturally has a higher concentration of iodine because<br />
of special algae that grows in the vicinity of the Nin<br />
Bay. On the topic, when given bread with a few grains of<br />
salt in Croatia, it is a symbol of sincere welcome. Best you<br />
bread up!<br />
What to have for breakfast…<br />
Pujina with sugar of course! Pujina is the whey that is left<br />
after cheese production. It differs from standard cheese<br />
with its ingredients of fat and protein, and is consumed<br />
fresh. Ask around the islands of Pag or Brač on where to<br />
buy fresh pujina for a hearty breakfast.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Belfast Celtic Bar<br />
‘The Belfast’ is a café situated near Kralj Tomislav, and<br />
while there is a lack of Irish beers it is certainly a welcoming<br />
and relaxing place, in which to enjoy a kava or a small<br />
Žuja during the warm Dubrovnik days. The interior is festooned<br />
with Celtic FC memorabilia, and the fittings and<br />
fixtures are far from clichéd bric-a-brac usually associated<br />
with such places.QG-2, Marka Marulića 21. Open 06:30 -<br />
02:00. P6NBXW<br />
Fashion Café<br />
In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who<br />
know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional<br />
fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner<br />
plates are mandatory.QH-2, Kralja Tomislava 7. Open<br />
06:00 - 02:00. P6NGBXW<br />
Festival<br />
This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local<br />
bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally<br />
and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light<br />
lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be<br />
better.QD-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, stijepo.<br />
sanje@du.t-com.hr. Open 07:30 - 02:00. PAG<br />
BW<br />
Galerie<br />
One of a plethora of little cafes stroke drinking holes in<br />
the side streets leading north from Stradun. This one is<br />
nice enough inside, has a couple of shady tables out, and<br />
plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its youthful clientele.QC-2,<br />
Kunićeva 5. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00<br />
- 02:00. PA6GBXW<br />
Glam Café<br />
If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well<br />
as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies.<br />
In the evening, this is a good place to get the night off<br />
to a good start with one of their range of cocktails.QC-<br />
2, Palmotićeva 5, glamcf44@gmail.com. Open 08:30 -<br />
02:00. PJ6NGBXW<br />
Libertina (Lući)<br />
Cosy, snug, intimate - all words to describe some place<br />
small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café<br />
within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened<br />
specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place<br />
as Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of<br />
the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your<br />
list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don’t be surprised if<br />
you find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though. A thoroughly<br />
enjoyable experience.QD-2, Zlatarska 3, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 32 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 24:00.<br />
6GBXW<br />
Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife<br />
atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night<br />
out on the town. For some fresh air, there’s additional seating<br />
outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.<br />
QUska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07, antuntun_5@<br />
yahoo.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PA6EG<br />
BXW<br />
Špilja Bar More (Cave Bar More)<br />
This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a<br />
little help from the human hand, been transformed into<br />
a delightfully relaxing bar. No music is played here: your<br />
thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by the<br />
sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your<br />
imagination!QF-2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More),<br />
tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, cavebar<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@gmail.com,<br />
www.hotel-more.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. AW<br />
SWEET TREATS<br />
Dolce vita<br />
This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and<br />
ice cream - among the best in town - just off Stradun.<br />
QC-2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66.<br />
Open 09:00 - 24:00. PNB<br />
Pupica<br />
Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of<br />
(slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost<br />
any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas,<br />
coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the wide selection<br />
of homemade cakes and confectionary which<br />
offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the<br />
cafe culture of Croatia.QC-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel.<br />
(+385-) 099 216 54 54, viktor@pupo<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com,<br />
www.pupo<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00.<br />
PiNGBW<br />
Yogomania<br />
This colourful and bright Frozen Yogurt Shop offers<br />
delicious frozen yogurt with numerous toppings to<br />
add, such as cookie or chocolate chunks, rainbow<br />
sprinkles, fruit pieces and many more. You can create<br />
the yogurt cup of your dreams! They also serve<br />
scrumptious crepes and savory smoothies to satisfy<br />
your sweet tooth.QB-2, Čubranovićeva 3, marija.<br />
papak@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. July, August<br />
Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJNGBW<br />
Soul Caffe<br />
This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the<br />
backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back<br />
and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 47
Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife<br />
Bars<br />
Art<br />
Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you’ll discover<br />
a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from oldfashioned<br />
bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha)<br />
washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smoothies<br />
all in one small but perfect package.QK-3, Branitelja<br />
Dubrovnika 25, artcafedbk@gmail.com. Open 09:00 -<br />
02:00. GBXW<br />
Buža<br />
What a place to sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open<br />
sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here<br />
so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the<br />
laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.QD-4,<br />
Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s<br />
tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34, www.cafebuza.com.<br />
Open 08:00 - 02:00 or according to weather conditions.<br />
B<br />
Mirage<br />
On a fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has<br />
great outside seating to rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t<br />
bad either (not that you’ll need it, we hope) and beer and<br />
cocktails are well priced.QC-3, Bunićeva poljana 3. Open<br />
09:00 - 02:00. PNBXW<br />
Onofrio Ice Bar<br />
Brrrr, it’s cold in here! Onofrio Ice Bar is made completely<br />
out of ice- the bar, the seats and even the glasses! Ice statues<br />
of St. Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik, and the famous<br />
Orlando, adorn the small space. Don’t worry about<br />
freezing because they provide you with a jacket to keep<br />
you warm, even during the hot days when you’re looking<br />
for a place to cool off from the sweltering Mediterranean<br />
sun.QPoljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385-) 091 152 02<br />
57. Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJAGBXW<br />
Rock Caffe Exit<br />
Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun,<br />
not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good<br />
acoustics and friendly staff. Altogether a good atmosphere<br />
to start the night out.QC-2, Boškovićeva 2. Open 19:00 -<br />
02:00. Jul - Sep open 19:00 - 03:00. PENXW<br />
Lounge bars<br />
Culto<br />
Escape the scorching summer heat and cool off at Culto!<br />
What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior<br />
and good atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit, it has<br />
a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd.QI-4, Iva Vojnovića<br />
39a. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />
04:00. PABXW<br />
50 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife<br />
Pubs<br />
Arch Pub<br />
As the name says, it is housed under the arch behind the<br />
Cathedral. One of the rare places playing music other than<br />
house and mainstream. This fact and the successful combination<br />
of stone and dark wood make you want to stay<br />
and just keep ordering those Irish beers they keep.QC-4,<br />
Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 30 69 90, archpub@<br />
gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00. PJNBXW<br />
Gaffe Pub<br />
It walks like an Irish Pub, and it talks like an Irish Pub, but<br />
unfortunately, like other hostelries in Dubrovnik’s Old City,<br />
the imported Irish drinks are overpriced when compared<br />
to the capital, but are nevertheless cheaper than most<br />
other local stockists of the ‘black stuff’. We won’t let this<br />
spoil our time here, however, and you’ll be pleased to note<br />
that their food is competitively priced and that it hits the<br />
spot nicely. It pains us to note that the pub is somewhat<br />
misnamed… Gaff, slang for someone’s home, was the<br />
word they meant, so their current name is somewhat of<br />
a, well, gaffe.QC-3, Miha Pracata 4. Open 09:00 - 01:00.<br />
From July Open 09:00 - 02:00. PJ6GBXW<br />
instagram.com/<br />
croatiaiyp<br />
Clubs<br />
Culture Club Revelin<br />
Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used to<br />
protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home<br />
to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often<br />
jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international<br />
music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh<br />
air and its seaside views.QE-1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin),<br />
tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31/(+385-) 098 946 89 61,<br />
cultureclubrevelin@gmail.com, www.clubrevelin.com.<br />
Open 23:00 - 06:00. PAGW<br />
Lazareti<br />
These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house<br />
are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature,<br />
including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international<br />
multimedia festival is held here, which includes<br />
independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and<br />
more. For <strong>info</strong> on programme check their FB.QL-2, Frana<br />
Supila bb, <strong>info</strong>@lazareti.com, www.lazareti.com. Open<br />
Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. From July Open 22:00 - 05:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
facebook.com/<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>inyourpocket<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 51
Sightseeing<br />
Stradun by Boris Kačan<br />
Essential Dubrovnik<br />
Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski<br />
samostan)<br />
The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the<br />
13th century, and with the building of their monastery a<br />
century later, they became an important part of the city’s<br />
defences - the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old<br />
Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful<br />
stone steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades<br />
have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking<br />
up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic<br />
position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside<br />
hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456-<br />
1469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior<br />
of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with<br />
a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.<br />
The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an<br />
important library and collection of art including a painting<br />
of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master<br />
Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in<br />
52 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important<br />
works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac<br />
of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30<br />
and 19:00.QD-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00.<br />
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30kn.<br />
Lokrum Island<br />
You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of<br />
island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat<br />
cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s<br />
shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets<br />
are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is<br />
perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of<br />
the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by<br />
cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the<br />
monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently<br />
by grateful citizens after being spared from a great<br />
fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian<br />
Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here,<br />
and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 - Lokrum is<br />
now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you<br />
have great views.QL-3, tel. (+385-20) 42 72 42, www.<br />
lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending<br />
on the season, the amount of visitors and weather<br />
therefore we suggest you contact the office for further<br />
<strong>info</strong>rmation. A return ticket costs 80kn per person, for<br />
kids until the age of 15, 20kn.<br />
Stradun, Placa<br />
When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll<br />
often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t<br />
see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the<br />
main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to<br />
the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The<br />
name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With<br />
its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings<br />
that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of<br />
Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with<br />
friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in<br />
the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing<br />
line between the earliest settlement and the parts<br />
of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the<br />
land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek<br />
for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name<br />
Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus<br />
has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the<br />
4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-<br />
Roman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later,<br />
Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel -<br />
this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for<br />
“oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century,<br />
thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated<br />
and began to build the city walls.QB/C-2.<br />
The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha)<br />
Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps<br />
the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting<br />
four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by<br />
local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful<br />
show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368,<br />
but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built<br />
in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli,<br />
who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing<br />
above the entrance to the church, protectively holding<br />
a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s<br />
front steps are the setting for some of the most important<br />
events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve<br />
and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival,<br />
which always used to include a concert by legendary<br />
renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The<br />
Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged<br />
by appointment.QD-3, Luža 3. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00<br />
- 18:00, Sunday 07:00 - 13:00. August open from 07:00 -<br />
24:00. No admission.<br />
The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče<br />
Gates (Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska<br />
vrata Pile, Vrata od Ploča)<br />
Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls<br />
are among the best preserved and most attractive on this<br />
planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The<br />
defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries.<br />
The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick<br />
in places shows their primary purpose as defence against<br />
attack from the mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman<br />
Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The<br />
walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions,<br />
and were never breached - the Republic of Dubrovnik only<br />
fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition<br />
that they would respect its independence. Two further<br />
fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland<br />
just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic<br />
defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the<br />
Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most<br />
atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances<br />
of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket<br />
to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s<br />
well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison,<br />
and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the<br />
best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort,<br />
just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is<br />
one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses<br />
the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the<br />
fortresses, each of which has its own story and character,<br />
the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these<br />
Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives<br />
Sightseeing<br />
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Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 53
Sightseeing<br />
Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board Archives<br />
gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges<br />
ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled<br />
with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates<br />
you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qwww.<br />
citywalls<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open Jun/Jul 08:00-19:30 , Aug<br />
08:00-19:00, Sep 08:00-18:30, Oct 08:00-17:30. Admission<br />
30 - 100kn.<br />
The Franciscan Monastery of the<br />
Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy<br />
(Franjevački samostan i stara apoteka<br />
Male braće)<br />
The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is<br />
an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old<br />
frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden<br />
where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous<br />
for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest<br />
one still working. The monastery houses a museum<br />
where you can see original items from the pharmacy,<br />
plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts,<br />
a large collection of musical notations and a treasury<br />
of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers<br />
on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on<br />
a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is<br />
to stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a real man!<br />
Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.<br />
QB-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, mala.braca@du.tcom.hr,<br />
www.malabraca.wix.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Admission 15 - 30kn.<br />
The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor)<br />
One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the<br />
Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the<br />
nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining<br />
him to these quarters which he could only leave on official<br />
occasions and religious holidays. The building changed<br />
its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored<br />
54 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the<br />
renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo<br />
Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations<br />
were added in baroque style in the 17th century following<br />
the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio<br />
della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was<br />
in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly<br />
romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade<br />
with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside,<br />
a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts.<br />
The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you<br />
can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the<br />
Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks,<br />
costumes and domestic objects of the period are<br />
all on display.QD-3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14<br />
97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Unified ticket<br />
costing 80kn for adults and 25kn for students and<br />
pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum,<br />
Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological<br />
exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik<br />
Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle,<br />
Pulitika Gallery.<br />
Churches<br />
Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum<br />
of Sigurata Convent (Samostan i<br />
muzej Sigurata)<br />
To find this pink little baroque confection, you have to enter<br />
what looks like someone’s garden off an intimate side street.<br />
There was probably a church on this spot well before its first<br />
mention in the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established<br />
their convent here in the 13th century, and the adjoining<br />
museum contains household objects they used in order<br />
to support their order (e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical<br />
utensils and artworks, including two wax dolls of the baby<br />
Jesus (Bambino). At one time, every Dubrovnik household<br />
had such a doll, which was especially venerated at Christmas<br />
time.QB-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. Open<br />
on request and by prior arrangement. July - August 31<br />
Open 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission<br />
10 - 15kn.<br />
St Ignatius’ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija)<br />
Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the<br />
southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate<br />
Jesuit church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic<br />
baroque staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps<br />
in Rome (1738). The church itself was built between 1667<br />
and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit<br />
churches of the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome,<br />
the mother church of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the<br />
square in front of the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik<br />
Summer Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down<br />
appearance of the adjoining college, an esteemed place of<br />
education, this is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of<br />
the oldest parts of the city. By the end of September Mass in<br />
English is held on Sundays at 11:00. QC-4, Poljana Ruđera<br />
Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 00. Open 07:00 - 20:00.<br />
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Sightseeing<br />
St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole)<br />
This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was originally<br />
built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for early Middle<br />
Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage was added in<br />
1607. Inside, you can see stone ornaments in an interlocking<br />
style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called pleter, which is<br />
typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine painting of the<br />
Madonna dating back to the 13th century.QD-2, Zlatarska.<br />
St Sebastian’s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana)<br />
This 15th century church was built by the Ploče gate, for<br />
a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint protector against<br />
plague. It lies under the protective wing of the Dominican<br />
monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone steps and balustrade.QD-2,<br />
Sv. Dominika.<br />
Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board Archives<br />
56 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
The Cathedral (Katedrala)<br />
The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies<br />
the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light”<br />
(Jure Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever<br />
way you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more<br />
chapter of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought<br />
that the Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian<br />
architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built<br />
on the site of an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral,<br />
destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667. However,<br />
following another earthquake in 1979, excavations showed<br />
that there had, in fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this<br />
spot since the 7th or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior<br />
is most famous for its collection of treasures, which<br />
includes reliquaries of St Blaise. The golden caskets containing<br />
the saint’s head and foot are thought to be the work of<br />
Byzantine masters of the 11th century. By the main altar is a<br />
painting of the Assumption by Titian which features a selfportrait<br />
of the artist. Mass: 07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00,<br />
18:00.QD-3/4, Držićeva poljana, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59<br />
Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96. Open 09:00 -16:00, Sun<br />
11:30 - 16:00. Treasury admission 15 - 20kn.<br />
Church of St Saviour (Crkva sv. Spasa)<br />
The first church you’ll see on entering the Old City from the<br />
Pile gate is St Saviour’s, with its typical Dalmatian rosette<br />
window on the front. It was built around 1520 by grateful<br />
citizens who were delivered from a terrible earthquake - it<br />
is said that even the city’s aristocratic ladies helped with<br />
carrying wood and stone. It’s often used as a venue for<br />
concerts and recitals.QB-2, Placa bb.<br />
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Serbian Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna<br />
crkva)<br />
Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church was built from 1865 - 1877,<br />
and stands behind impressive wrought iron gates. It houses<br />
a number of icons, mainly Byzantine and Cretan.QC-3,<br />
Od Puča 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 83, spco@du.t-com.hr.<br />
Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Church Admission<br />
free.<br />
Museums<br />
Dubrovnik Natural History Museum<br />
(Prirodoslovni muzej)<br />
The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio<br />
(Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the<br />
Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of<br />
pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection<br />
of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to<br />
everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too,<br />
and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for<br />
hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.QC-<br />
4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88. Open 10:00 -<br />
18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Unified ticket.<br />
Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski<br />
muzej Rupe)<br />
“Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living<br />
rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing<br />
imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a<br />
fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the<br />
economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik.<br />
The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the<br />
region where folk culture is still celebrated.QB-3, Od Rupa<br />
3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 -<br />
16:00. Closed Tue. Unified ticket.<br />
Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej)<br />
Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the<br />
growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s<br />
most important museums. The display of models of the fine<br />
galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales<br />
- they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used<br />
for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž<br />
harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is<br />
housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.<br />
QE-4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Mon. Unified ticket.<br />
a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included<br />
sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence,<br />
seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government,<br />
convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is<br />
best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one<br />
of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace<br />
has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the<br />
playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the<br />
Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB-3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu.<br />
Open 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.<br />
The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga<br />
i židovski muzej)<br />
The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after<br />
Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which<br />
could be reached from within the surrounding houses in<br />
what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish<br />
community here was founded at the end of the 15th century<br />
following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The<br />
community flourished and included respected doctors,<br />
merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik<br />
enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions<br />
on their activities at certain points in history. The<br />
Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes<br />
and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum<br />
contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside<br />
<strong>info</strong>rmation on the history of the Jewish community in<br />
Dubrovnik.QD-2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04.<br />
Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 35kn.<br />
DUBROVNIK<br />
Sightseeing<br />
The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina<br />
Držića)<br />
This picturesque gothic town house is the place where<br />
Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one<br />
of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was<br />
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facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 57
Sightseeing<br />
Photo by Ivana Stanesic<br />
Galleries<br />
Dubrovnik Art Gallery (Umjetnička<br />
galerija Dubrovnik)<br />
This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is<br />
the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern<br />
paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all<br />
important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.<br />
QL-5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, <strong>info</strong>@<br />
ug<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.ug<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open 09:00 -<br />
20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.<br />
Otok Gallery, ARL (Galerija Otok, ARL)<br />
A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret - the former quarantine<br />
houses - which now houses an artists’ community, including<br />
workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of<br />
an excellent standard.QL-5, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 46 33, arl@du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission<br />
free.<br />
The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald<br />
Brown Memorial House (Galerija<br />
Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/Memorijalna<br />
kuća Ronald Brown)<br />
This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery<br />
with some of the finest views in Europe - the windows<br />
look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside.<br />
The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous<br />
for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid<br />
style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are<br />
58 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented<br />
attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The<br />
building was repaired and renovated by the US Government<br />
and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce<br />
Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to<br />
Dubrovnik.QD-3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 31 72, <strong>info</strong>@ug<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.ug<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr.<br />
Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.<br />
The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza)<br />
For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings,<br />
with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance<br />
detail, this was always a public building. Directly<br />
facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public<br />
life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs<br />
house - all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was<br />
built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević.<br />
Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space<br />
and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is<br />
dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the<br />
siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission<br />
free). The upper galleries were once the place where<br />
the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building<br />
also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure<br />
trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop<br />
on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic<br />
documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for<br />
research purposes.QD-3, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 10 32, dad@dad.hr, www.dad.hr. Open 10:00 -<br />
19:00. Admission 25kn.<br />
War Photo Limited<br />
A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war<br />
by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested<br />
in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if<br />
sometimes disturbing - images.QC-2, Antuninska 6, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 32 21 66, <strong>info</strong>@warphotoltd.com, www.<br />
warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 30 -<br />
40kn.<br />
Landmarks<br />
Boninovo cliffs<br />
It might be considered somewhat morbid that such an<br />
infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist<br />
attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as<br />
a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as<br />
‘popular’ here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards passing<br />
pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now populated<br />
by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to<br />
commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other.<br />
The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spectacular,<br />
and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the<br />
dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from<br />
the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of<br />
reflection and sombre beauty. It’s best appreciated either<br />
at the height of the tourist influx (since they’re all in the<br />
Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down<br />
along the coastline.<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing<br />
Dubrovnik Cable Car<br />
The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over<br />
the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces<br />
equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar,<br />
a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The<br />
lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir<br />
Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be<br />
bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount<br />
Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates<br />
where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other<br />
places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets<br />
are payable in euro.QL-2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 32 53 93, blagajna@excelsa-realestate.com,<br />
www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>cablecar.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
Adults 108kn, Children under 12 50kn, Children under<br />
4 free.<br />
Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana)<br />
This square is named after the long-haired chappie<br />
standing in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik<br />
statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard<br />
for literary Croatian which is still accepted today.<br />
The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems<br />
were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the<br />
Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered<br />
by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old<br />
Town’s fruit market in the mornings.QC/D-3.<br />
Onofrio’s Fountains – Great and Small<br />
(Velika i mala Onofrijeva fontana)<br />
One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when<br />
you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio<br />
Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water<br />
taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water<br />
trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers.<br />
The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects<br />
Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built<br />
from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of<br />
the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s<br />
Croatia. Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more<br />
ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the<br />
great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small<br />
fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with<br />
playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other<br />
end of Stradun.QB-2, D-3, Poljana Paska Miličevića,<br />
Pred Dvorom.<br />
Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup)<br />
In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a<br />
carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne<br />
and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and<br />
nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that<br />
date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of<br />
the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing<br />
the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This<br />
spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still<br />
is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where<br />
citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 59
Sightseeing<br />
Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives<br />
Revelin Fortress<br />
Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik,<br />
it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions.<br />
The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits<br />
whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a<br />
virtual museum.<br />
The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik<br />
and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone<br />
is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture<br />
in churches was made from stone and this exhibit<br />
presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts<br />
in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These<br />
artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine<br />
order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date<br />
from the 8th and 12th century. The second exhibit<br />
Archaeological research, Spatial Development<br />
and Foundry presents how the very building you<br />
are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and<br />
16th century construction as well as findings such as<br />
ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of<br />
different stone masons and foundry men. Any publicconstruction<br />
in the city at the time was put on halt to<br />
accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential<br />
Venetian danger.<br />
Ascend one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual<br />
Museum with seven huge touch screens allowing<br />
visitors to see archived documents, walk through summer<br />
residences and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral,<br />
flip old coins of the Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and<br />
the ancient fortresses and holiday villas in the region.<br />
Some of these are mostly inaccessible to the public<br />
and are an extremely important part of Dubrovnik’s<br />
heritage.QE-1, dumus.hr/en/. Open 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Wed. Unified ticket.<br />
60 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used<br />
as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for<br />
trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) - you can<br />
see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom<br />
of the sculpture.QD-2, Pred Dvorom.<br />
Orsula Park<br />
There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all<br />
the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this<br />
phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th century<br />
St Orsula’s Church. There is an amphitheatre here that<br />
seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the sea. It is<br />
a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or a short ride by the<br />
No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Association saved<br />
and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has also gained<br />
a new summer stage for concerts of various domestic<br />
and international musical performers, who will play here<br />
throughout the summer.Qwww.parkorsula.du-hr.net.<br />
The Aquarium (Akvarij)<br />
Housed in the magnificent St John’s fortress (Sveti Ivan),<br />
the Aquarium gives you the chance to get to know the<br />
sea life of the Adriatic without having to eat it. Children<br />
will love it; animal rights activists may be less than impressed.QE-3,<br />
Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 39 78. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 60kn.<br />
The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik,<br />
Luža zvonara)<br />
Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the<br />
east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two<br />
men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t<br />
up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see<br />
their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door.<br />
Their green colour is a result of their copper composition<br />
rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately<br />
known as zelenci - ‘the green ones’ - or, individually, Maro<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing<br />
and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden<br />
figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower - an<br />
older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt<br />
in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a<br />
master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells<br />
and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist<br />
of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst<br />
centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD-3, Pred<br />
Dvorom.<br />
The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre<br />
(Vijećnica i kazalište Marina Držića)<br />
South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun<br />
begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the<br />
old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing<br />
seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry<br />
dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs<br />
for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city<br />
coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St<br />
Blaise’s Church. Next door are the chambers of the city<br />
council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings<br />
are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine sight<br />
to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered<br />
there on a warm evening.QD-3, Pred Dvorom 1.<br />
Open 9:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00.<br />
The City Harbour (Gradska luka)<br />
Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There<br />
is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by<br />
Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by<br />
the security offered by the island which lay where the<br />
southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the<br />
natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard.<br />
It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade<br />
routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After<br />
the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city<br />
in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with<br />
powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to<br />
establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were<br />
built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče<br />
gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade,<br />
Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime<br />
city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in<br />
the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around<br />
200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry,<br />
and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well<br />
known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of<br />
durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž<br />
harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče<br />
has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking<br />
on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the<br />
local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good<br />
meal.QD/E-2/3.<br />
The Lazaret (Lazareti)<br />
Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone<br />
buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was<br />
the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers<br />
in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually<br />
destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s<br />
lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather<br />
impressive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops<br />
and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for<br />
concerts and DJ parties.QL-5.<br />
Photo by Ivana Stanesic<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 61
Maps & Index<br />
Retail office/Exchange<br />
ATM<br />
62 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Maps Ston Tourist & Board Index<br />
Archives<br />
A. Barca H-2,3<br />
J-2,3<br />
A. Hallera I-2<br />
A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2<br />
A. Kazali H-2<br />
J-2<br />
A. Šenoe H-2<br />
A.G. Matoša I-2<br />
A.T. Mimare K-2<br />
C-4<br />
I-2<br />
Antuninska C-2<br />
Aquarium E-3<br />
Arhiv D-2<br />
Asimon E-1<br />
L-2<br />
Bernarda Shawa K-2<br />
Babin Kuk G-2<br />
Bandureva D-4<br />
Banjska I-3<br />
Batahovina G-1<br />
Batala<br />
H-2/I-2<br />
Biokovska G-2<br />
Bokar A-3<br />
Bokeljska G-1<br />
Boninovo J-3<br />
Bosanka L-2<br />
C-2<br />
Boatska I-2<br />
D-4<br />
Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3<br />
Brdasta J-2<br />
Brgatska L-2<br />
Brsalje A-2<br />
I-2<br />
C-3<br />
Bua D-1<br />
Cavtatska K-2<br />
C-4<br />
C-3<br />
B-2<br />
I-2<br />
G-2<br />
A-1<br />
Dalmatinska H-2<br />
Dante Alighieria J-3<br />
Dinka Ranjine C-3<br />
Dolska H-1<br />
Dr. A. Šercera H-2<br />
I-2<br />
K-2<br />
C-2<br />
Dravna cesta D-8<br />
Dubravkina G-2<br />
Dunavska<br />
G-2,3<br />
Damija C-3<br />
B-2<br />
D-4<br />
I-1<br />
H-2<br />
H-2<br />
F. Prešerna I-2<br />
F. Supila L-2<br />
B-3<br />
G-2<br />
I-2,3<br />
Garište B-2<br />
B-2<br />
Gorica Sv. Vlaha<br />
H-3/I-3<br />
Gornji kono<br />
I,J,K-2<br />
Gradac J-3<br />
D-4<br />
Grbava C-4<br />
Grebenska H-2<br />
Grudska K-2<br />
Gruška obala H-1<br />
C-1<br />
Hladnica H-3<br />
B-3<br />
Hodiljska I-2<br />
Hvarska E-1<br />
J-2<br />
L-2<br />
H-2/I-3<br />
Ilije Sarake D-4<br />
Imotska I-1<br />
B-1<br />
Ispod mira D-4<br />
Ispod Petke G-2<br />
Istarska J-3<br />
G-2<br />
Ivana Zajca<br />
G,H-1<br />
Ivanska G-3<br />
Iza Grada B-1, K-2<br />
H-2<br />
J-2<br />
K-3<br />
C-2<br />
A-1<br />
J. Berse H-2<br />
H-2<br />
Jakljanska H-1<br />
Janjinska H-2<br />
Josipa Kosora I-3<br />
G-1<br />
Kardinala Stepinca F-2<br />
C-3<br />
Kliševska G-2<br />
Kneza Domagoja H-2<br />
Kneza Branimira I-2<br />
Kneza Damjana Jude E-3<br />
Kneza Hrvaša C-4<br />
Kneev dvor D-3<br />
L-2<br />
Komajska H-2<br />
G-1<br />
Konavoska L-2<br />
I-3<br />
Koritska H-1<br />
Kotorska I-3<br />
D-2<br />
Kralja Tomislava H-2<br />
C-2<br />
Kunska I-1<br />
H-1<br />
L. Rogovskog G,H-2<br />
Lapad G-3<br />
Lapadska obala H-2<br />
Lazareti L-2<br />
Lazarina L-2<br />
VIVADO<br />
(arrival ili what to see)<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 63
Maps & Index<br />
Liechtensteinov put<br />
H,I-3<br />
Lokrum L-3<br />
Lokrumska K-2<br />
Lopudska H-1<br />
Lovrijenac K-3<br />
Lovrina L-2<br />
Luka Dubrovnik H-1<br />
Ljubuška H-1<br />
M. Budaka K-2<br />
M. Dizdara I-1<br />
M. Gjaje J-2<br />
M. Gupca K-2<br />
Mala Petka G-3<br />
Mandaljenska G-3<br />
Marka Marojice H-2<br />
Marojice Kaboge C-3<br />
Masarykov put F, G-3<br />
Metohijska I-1<br />
Miha Pracata C-2<br />
B/C-1<br />
Mljetska<br />
H,I-1<br />
Mokoška I-1<br />
Moluntska G-1<br />
Montovjerna I-2<br />
Mosorska G-2<br />
Most Dubrovnik G-1<br />
Mrtvo zvono B-4<br />
I-2<br />
N. Nodila J-2<br />
Na Andriji B-3<br />
Na Mihajlu H-2<br />
Na Ponti D-2<br />
C-2<br />
Napice L-2<br />
Neumska H-1<br />
C-3<br />
Nikole Tesle<br />
H,I-2<br />
Nuncijata H-1<br />
I-2<br />
Obodska K-2<br />
Obuljenska J-2<br />
Od Batale H-2<br />
Od borova H-2<br />
J-2<br />
J-3<br />
Od Domina B-3<br />
Od gaja<br />
I-1,2/J-2<br />
Od Gale<br />
I,J-2<br />
Od Greba udioskih K-2<br />
Od Gradca J-3<br />
Od Hladnice H-3<br />
Od Kaštela B-4<br />
Od Kolorine K-3<br />
Od Margarite C-4<br />
Od maslinate L-2<br />
Od Montovjerne I-2<br />
Od Nuncijate H-1<br />
C-2<br />
C,B-3<br />
Od pustijerne D-4<br />
Od Rupa B-3<br />
Od Sigurate B-2<br />
K-2<br />
Od Sv. Mihajla H-2<br />
Od škara I-1<br />
Od šorte B-3<br />
Od Tabakarije K-3<br />
Oraška G-2<br />
P. Budmani K-2<br />
I-3<br />
P. Krešimira IV L-2<br />
H-2<br />
Padre Perice I-1<br />
C-2<br />
Paska Baburice H-2<br />
C-3<br />
Peline C-1<br />
Pelješka K-2<br />
J-2<br />
Petilovrijenci C-2<br />
G-2<br />
Pile<br />
J,K-3<br />
Pionirska H-1<br />
Placa<br />
C,D-2<br />
Placa – Stradun C-2<br />
Platska J-3<br />
L-2<br />
Plovani skalini C-1<br />
Pobijana D-4<br />
Pobreška H-1<br />
Poljana Mrtvo zvono B-4<br />
64 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Maps & Index<br />
Pomoraca H-1<br />
Pomorski muzej E-4<br />
Porat<br />
E-3<br />
Porporela<br />
E-3,4<br />
Posat E-2<br />
Postranjska I-2<br />
Pred Dvorom D-3<br />
Prelazna B-3<br />
Pridvorska J-2<br />
Prijeko<br />
B-2,3/C-2<br />
Primorska G-2<br />
Privena J-2<br />
Puljizeva B-3<br />
Put od Bosanke L-2<br />
Revelin E-1<br />
Ribarnica D-2<br />
Savska G-3<br />
Sinjska I-2<br />
Slanska G-2<br />
Solinska I-2<br />
Solitudo G-1<br />
Sponza D-2<br />
Srebrenska J-2<br />
Srednji kono K-2<br />
Stayeva E-4<br />
Stonska G-2<br />
Strossmayerova C-3<br />
Stulina D-4<br />
Stradun B-2<br />
L-2<br />
Sustjepanska I-2<br />
Sv. Barbara C-1<br />
A-2/K-3<br />
Sv. Ivan E-3<br />
Sv. Jakov D-1<br />
Sv. Kria H-1<br />
Sv. Lucija C-1<br />
Sv. Luka E-2<br />
Sv. Petar B-4<br />
Sv. Spasitelj E-4<br />
Sv. Stjepan D-4<br />
Sv. Šimuna B-4<br />
Sv. Vid C-1<br />
Sv. Vlaha D-3<br />
Sv. Marije B-3<br />
Sv.Dominika D-2<br />
Sv. Josipa B-3<br />
Sv.Nikole H-1<br />
Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G,H-2<br />
Šibenska G-2<br />
Šipanska H-1<br />
I-2<br />
Široka C-2<br />
Tivatska J-2<br />
Tmušasta C-3<br />
Topolska I-2<br />
Trg oruja E-2<br />
I-2<br />
Trpanjska G-1<br />
Trstenska G-2<br />
U pilama K-3<br />
I-2<br />
Uvala Gru H-1<br />
Uvala Sumartin F-3<br />
Uz Giman H-2<br />
Uz Glavicu H-2<br />
Uz Jezuite<br />
C-3,4<br />
Uz mline K-2<br />
Uz posat B-1<br />
Uz tabor K-2<br />
Vladimira Nazora J-2<br />
Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2<br />
Velebitska G-2<br />
Velika Petka G-3<br />
C-2<br />
Vicina K-2<br />
Viška I-2<br />
Vlaha Paljetka H-1<br />
Vukovarska I-2<br />
Za kapelicom K-2<br />
Za Kamenom E-4<br />
Za Rokom B-3<br />
Za rupama B-3<br />
Zadarska G-2<br />
J,K-2<br />
Zamanjina C-2<br />
Zatonska G-2<br />
B-2<br />
Zlatarska D-2<br />
Zrinsko-Frankopanska<br />
K-2,3<br />
B-3,4<br />
H-1<br />
udioska D-2<br />
uljanska I-2<br />
upska L-2<br />
Retail office/Exchange<br />
ATM<br />
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Retail office/Exchange<br />
ATM
Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />
IMMERSE YOURsELF BY DISCOVERING THIS MAGICAL<br />
REGION, ITS NATURAL BEAUTY, AND ITS RICH CULTURAL AND<br />
AUTOChTHONIC FOOD OFFER<br />
Korčula Tourist Board Archives
North of <strong>dubrovnik</strong><br />
The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continental<br />
areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the<br />
natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno’ which is home to the<br />
oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498.<br />
The Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in<br />
Croatia, is famous for many reasons especially for those associated<br />
with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when<br />
in the area, make sure you don’t miss out on the infamous<br />
Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the<br />
peninsula.<br />
Trsteno<br />
If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik<br />
brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green,<br />
get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at<br />
Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be<br />
delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners<br />
and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer<br />
villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić<br />
in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling<br />
and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded<br />
it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More<br />
than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov<br />
Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.<br />
Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided<br />
by local sea captains who came home from their travels<br />
bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many<br />
people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens.<br />
A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates<br />
- don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone<br />
aqueduct.<br />
East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by<br />
the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the<br />
sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view<br />
encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical<br />
splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part<br />
of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum<br />
- a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably<br />
healthy.<br />
The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden<br />
laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of<br />
paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also<br />
a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and<br />
modern sections, with features typical of the southern<br />
Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland.<br />
Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a<br />
forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has<br />
taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the<br />
beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the<br />
chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.<br />
The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a<br />
fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic<br />
plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a<br />
remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a<br />
stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.<br />
Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />
Pelješac Peninsula<br />
The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the<br />
mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The<br />
first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of<br />
Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the<br />
mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village<br />
restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country.<br />
Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone<br />
walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which<br />
with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look<br />
scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built<br />
by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans<br />
and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called<br />
“little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and<br />
the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for<br />
industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday<br />
with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and<br />
victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.<br />
The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular<br />
conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac<br />
Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village<br />
of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality.<br />
Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong,<br />
and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic<br />
origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but<br />
to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend<br />
you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called<br />
“Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable<br />
and very quaffable.<br />
Konavle Tourist Board Archives<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 69
Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />
On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched<br />
by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by<br />
steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous<br />
for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a<br />
bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers,<br />
especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture<br />
reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and<br />
has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry<br />
connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače<br />
on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.<br />
The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take<br />
time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will<br />
hardly be long enough.<br />
Orebić Tourist Board<br />
QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71<br />
37 18, <strong>info</strong>@visitorebic-croatia.hr, www.visitorebiccroatia.com.<br />
Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open<br />
08:00 - 22:00.<br />
Ston Tourist Board<br />
QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@<br />
du.t-com.hr, www.ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00. October<br />
Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Korčula Tourist Board Archives<br />
70 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
The walls of Ston<br />
In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few manmade<br />
sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century<br />
walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny<br />
stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible<br />
to the public, but after a long period of renovation a<br />
significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the<br />
public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around<br />
the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself,<br />
enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.<br />
The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik<br />
gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac peninsula,<br />
and immediately set about securing it against potential<br />
Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth<br />
the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a<br />
key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the<br />
republic’s fleet on the seas.<br />
Spanning the isthmus that connects the Peljesac peninsula<br />
to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses,<br />
the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving<br />
fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources<br />
reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after<br />
the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim<br />
was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by<br />
PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged<br />
to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed<br />
that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall -<br />
although we didn’t bother investigating any further.<br />
The Walls of Ston<br />
QGundulićeva poljana 2, tel. +385 (0)20 638 800/+385<br />
(0)20 638 801/802, <strong>info</strong>@citywalls<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr, www.<br />
citywalls<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open Jun/Jul 08:00 - 19:30 ; Aug<br />
08:00 - 19:00 ; Sep 08:00 - 18:30 ; Oct 08:00 - 17:30. Tickets<br />
20 - 40kn.<br />
Neretva<br />
If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised<br />
to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you<br />
walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often<br />
ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have<br />
to part with good money for them back home. Obviously,<br />
the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region<br />
these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the<br />
River Neretva.<br />
It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and<br />
impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver<br />
in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms<br />
to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of<br />
backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region<br />
sometimes called Croatia’s California.<br />
As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside<br />
stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits.<br />
It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of<br />
the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting<br />
pretty much everything around here.<br />
The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller<br />
kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although<br />
these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an<br />
annual race (Maraton lađa, August ) which attracts competing<br />
teams from around the world looks set to revive the<br />
picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish<br />
construction which is very attractive but definitely renders<br />
their navigation a challenge!<br />
More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional<br />
dishes of the area are often centered around two<br />
aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made<br />
into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the<br />
popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković,<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
MANOJLOVAČKI SLAP SKRADINSKI BUK MILJACKA SLAP<br />
VISOVAC MANASTIR KRKA BURNUM<br />
<strong>info</strong>@npk.hr • www.np-krka.hr
Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />
Metković Tourist Board Archives<br />
where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris<br />
are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly<br />
storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.<br />
Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from<br />
the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting<br />
freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully<br />
clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is<br />
hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in<br />
the near future.<br />
Metković Tourist Board<br />
QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, <strong>info</strong>@tzmetkovic.hr,<br />
www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun.<br />
South of <strong>dubrovnik</strong><br />
South of Dubrovnik and following the coastal road you will<br />
find yourself in Župa Dubrovačka, where there are a handful<br />
of bays that have a promenade which passes through<br />
small romantic places such as Srebreno and Mlini.<br />
If you continue further south, you will find yourself in a vortex<br />
of history. The small town of Cavtat will enchant you<br />
with its architecture, nature and charm. Historically known<br />
as Epidaurum, it used to be a key part of Dubrovnik’s history<br />
and development of the city, which the citizens of Cavtat<br />
built respectively.<br />
From Cavtat to the border with Montenegro stretches the<br />
Konavle municipality which was named after the Latin<br />
word ‘canalis’, referring to water channels that used to bring<br />
water from water-wells across Konavle Fields to the ancient<br />
city of Epidaurum (present-day Cavtat).<br />
72 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
Župa Dubrovačka<br />
The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a<br />
broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to<br />
be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are<br />
probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was<br />
given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is<br />
that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday<br />
brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water<br />
mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that<br />
race down the mountainside and emerge right on the<br />
beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be<br />
named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness<br />
of the swimmer in question.<br />
These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being<br />
that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav<br />
army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all<br />
but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal<br />
situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry<br />
lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the<br />
waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation<br />
is presently going on and things will get better.<br />
We highly recommend these resorts for the following<br />
reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)<br />
There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private<br />
apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With<br />
Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great<br />
place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter<br />
environment and clean beaches.<br />
Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll<br />
find necessities such as the tourist <strong>info</strong>rmation centre,<br />
banks, the post office and a large supermarket.<br />
Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever<br />
seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream,<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752<br />
right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel<br />
complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade.<br />
Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board<br />
QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 48 62 54, tz-zupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com.<br />
hr, www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>-riviera.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 -<br />
19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.<br />
Cavtat<br />
The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town<br />
is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the<br />
campaniles of its churches poke their way into view<br />
above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all - this was<br />
the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants<br />
populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes<br />
the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of<br />
good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants<br />
and a handful of rather lovely small hotels. The promenade<br />
leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a<br />
cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan<br />
Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are<br />
several large hotels which are good choices for families,<br />
with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-inclusive<br />
packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning<br />
yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can<br />
indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba<br />
in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its<br />
traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep.<br />
A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house<br />
(November - April 30 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00,<br />
Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. May - October 31 Open<br />
09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Closed<br />
Mon. Admission 20kn), where one of the best-loved<br />
Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a<br />
child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely<br />
old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring<br />
semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent<br />
owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been<br />
restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition<br />
space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded<br />
by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s<br />
portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An<br />
exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the<br />
work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary<br />
works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood<br />
of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the<br />
back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.<br />
Tourist Board of Konavle<br />
QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, visit.<br />
cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August<br />
Open 08:00 - 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />
The Sivi soko viewpoint<br />
Return home by bragging to friends some of the best<br />
photos you had taken around Dubrovnik. Pick up your<br />
camera and GO GO GO! Jump onto the old road, the<br />
so called ‘Jadranska magistrala’ towards the Čilipi Airport<br />
and exit at the town called Zvekovica, turning left<br />
onto a local road. After 1km, turn left and head up the<br />
Snježnica Hill until you see the sign for Velji Do to the<br />
left. This is your last turn before the main post. A narrow<br />
path will then take you to the ‘lookout’ itself from<br />
which you will have breathtaking views of Dubrovnik,<br />
Konavle, Cavtat and the neighboring islands. From<br />
here it is all yours; capture the photo and those special<br />
moments!<br />
Sokol tower<br />
Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in<br />
World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient<br />
fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it<br />
dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military<br />
purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and<br />
also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze<br />
Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Konavle, www.<br />
citywalls<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Tickets 25 -<br />
40kn.<br />
Konavle<br />
The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with<br />
Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one<br />
of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings<br />
you can witness the traditional songs and dances of Konavle<br />
and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. Kon-<br />
Konavle Embroidery - Croatian Traditional Costumes Facebook Page<br />
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Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />
Agroturizam Laptalo Archives<br />
avle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts,<br />
all with stone villages that would reduce real estate agents<br />
to tears. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional rural restaurants<br />
where you can enjoy delicious home grown food<br />
- locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters<br />
and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to<br />
eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try dishes made<br />
AgrItourism<br />
Agroturizam Laptalo<br />
Not far from Dubrovnik in a village named Gromača<br />
you’ll find this family smallholding. Throughout the<br />
year, if you call ahead, you can visit and enjoy homemade<br />
dishes cooked in the traditional way, and sample<br />
the family’s liqueurs, wines and olive oil. Try the<br />
local sweet specialities arancine (orange), kontonjata<br />
(quince) and mantala (grape, orange, nuts and spices).<br />
QGromača 56, Zaton, tel. (+385-20) 88 11 86/(+385-<br />
) 099 218 36 12, 098 72 51 02, zlaptalo2710@net.hr,<br />
www.laptalo-agro.hr. Open by prior arrangement.<br />
IK<br />
Konoba Vinica - Monković family<br />
Excellent option in the Konavle region south of Cavtat.<br />
If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run the<br />
place may show you their collection of folk costumes<br />
as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese,<br />
roast meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home<br />
made rakija would go down a treat too…QPridvorje,<br />
Ljuta, tel. (+385-20) 79 12 44/(+385-) 099 215 24 59,<br />
monkovic@konobavinica.com, www.konobavinica.<br />
com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 110kn). PALB<br />
with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom.<br />
The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries<br />
the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest<br />
point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village<br />
cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci)<br />
of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and<br />
lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are wellmarked<br />
hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty<br />
meal as part of the deal.<br />
The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is<br />
characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few settlements,<br />
and the only people on the shores are locals looking<br />
for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is a<br />
second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus,<br />
and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical<br />
chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a<br />
quiet fishing village in a pretty cove.<br />
Mills on the river Ljuta<br />
The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to<br />
a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour<br />
mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system,<br />
called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale<br />
came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik.<br />
The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills<br />
were built on a canal network, while some of them were<br />
driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the<br />
western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp<br />
mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was<br />
extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the<br />
Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
74 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Islands<br />
The Elaphite archipelago consists of 13 islands and islets, of<br />
which only three are inhabited. Robinson Crusoe will get<br />
a run for his money here as the nature and culture on the<br />
islands are next to perfection; the peace and tranquillity,<br />
invaluable.<br />
The island sitting high north of the Dubrovnik/Neretva<br />
County is Korčula which is filled with its rich culture, historical<br />
remains and natural surroundings. The town of Korčula<br />
is also known as ‘Little Dubrovnik’ because of the walls that<br />
surround it.<br />
The island of Lastovo is the second most forested island in<br />
the Adriatic earning it the title of a Nature Park.<br />
With a National Park on the western front to a reserve of<br />
natural assets on the eastern front, the island of Mljet is full<br />
of flora and fauna, fascinating history and wild adventure<br />
offers.<br />
The islands in general have a completely different atmosphere<br />
from mainland towns making their way of life all the<br />
more special.<br />
The Elafiti Islands -<br />
Koločep, Lopud and Šipan<br />
These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places<br />
to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep<br />
but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and<br />
Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />
accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just<br />
a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you<br />
want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!<br />
Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them<br />
quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud<br />
just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance<br />
of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built<br />
their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas,<br />
some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud is perhaps<br />
the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden<br />
age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2<br />
of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie<br />
in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your<br />
wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone<br />
balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep<br />
have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children<br />
and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s<br />
Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a<br />
naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if<br />
you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part.<br />
Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports,<br />
Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets<br />
in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip<br />
through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully<br />
grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and<br />
carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the<br />
ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik<br />
bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim<br />
and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 75
Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />
Mljet Tourist Board Archives<br />
restaurants.<br />
Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your<br />
own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really<br />
off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour<br />
operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly<br />
on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing<br />
break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap<br />
of facilities laid on.<br />
76 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
Mljet<br />
Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the<br />
more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry<br />
service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the<br />
Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands.<br />
This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or<br />
discos. One might hope it never will be.<br />
Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this<br />
island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.<br />
Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide<br />
and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or<br />
lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with<br />
131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to<br />
discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five<br />
distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation,<br />
it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.”<br />
Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous<br />
islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise<br />
steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys<br />
sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes<br />
quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With<br />
fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming,<br />
scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction<br />
of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end<br />
of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.<br />
Getting there and around<br />
Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car<br />
ferry and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija ferries.<br />
Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac,<br />
18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are<br />
a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest<br />
and main port of call in the north, however, you can also<br />
access the island from Sobra which is best used to reach<br />
Maranovići and Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pomena<br />
which has daily connections to Dubrovnik (watch out<br />
for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port<br />
where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal<br />
toward the Big Lake.<br />
What to See<br />
Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet). Established<br />
in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses<br />
54 square kilometres at the western end of the<br />
island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty.<br />
Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake),<br />
and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and<br />
Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this<br />
park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect<br />
the native eco-system in the Adriatic.QPristanište 2,<br />
Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, 74 40 58, np-mljet@<br />
np-mljet.hr, turizam@np-mljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr.<br />
Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samostan<br />
Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of<br />
Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart.<br />
Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant<br />
Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high<br />
- built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in<br />
size to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The<br />
road to Pomena slips right between its high walls.<br />
Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the<br />
National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village,<br />
built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living<br />
among charming thick forests and working in agriculture,<br />
fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small<br />
yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the<br />
hotel’s amenities.<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century<br />
when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino<br />
Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines<br />
to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian).<br />
Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically<br />
interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace,<br />
serenity and lush vegetation.<br />
Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located<br />
on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It<br />
offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a number<br />
of private rentals here, too.<br />
Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with<br />
around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative centre<br />
of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road<br />
and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje<br />
is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive<br />
trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the highest hill<br />
on the island.<br />
Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that would<br />
be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home<br />
from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven<br />
years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his<br />
home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and<br />
wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and<br />
the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such<br />
a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave;<br />
come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through<br />
a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.<br />
Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles<br />
who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing getaway.<br />
Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) and the<br />
sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three beautiful<br />
churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St<br />
Martin and the Church of St Rocco.<br />
Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš<br />
family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish<br />
church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older<br />
church and features Gothic architectural elements.<br />
In nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St<br />
Mary of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements,<br />
and demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches.<br />
A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the<br />
front, and a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,” that<br />
is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a distaff’s<br />
end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses<br />
have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own<br />
17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita<br />
is named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that<br />
are used to capture rainwater.<br />
Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />
Korčula<br />
Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is<br />
a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the<br />
clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.<br />
Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic<br />
towns which hits the news from time to time with reports<br />
of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town<br />
properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason<br />
for this - the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky<br />
promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most<br />
romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities<br />
for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through<br />
the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic<br />
details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered<br />
a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden<br />
architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral<br />
of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted<br />
menu of an old brothel near the main entrance.<br />
Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual<br />
morning stroll. All in all, it’s well worth a few days’ stay and is<br />
a perfect place to recharge your batteries.<br />
One of the other most prominent features of the island is<br />
its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with<br />
swords, which you can witness during the summer months<br />
(Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in<br />
June and September, starting at 21:00), heralded by drumbeats<br />
as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes<br />
through prior to the performance.<br />
With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism<br />
and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic<br />
towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season.<br />
Mljet Tourist Board<br />
Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier.QSobra bb, Sobra,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, tz-mljet@du.t-com.hr, www.<br />
mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.<br />
Mljet Tourist Board, Polače office<br />
QPolače bb, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 41 86, tz-mljet@<br />
du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />
08:00 - 13:00.<br />
Mljet Tourist Board Archives<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 77
Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />
Lastovo Tourist Board Archives Photo by Stjepan Tafra<br />
But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other<br />
places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island,<br />
the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from<br />
any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village<br />
of Lumbarda where you’ll find picturesque vineyards. You<br />
must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding<br />
area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece<br />
after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village<br />
and feel miles and centuries away from everything else.<br />
Korčula City Museum<br />
QTrg Sv. Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, gm-korcula@<br />
du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 14:00 and by prior arrangement,<br />
Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. July - September<br />
15 Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission<br />
20kn per person, for groups 15kn per person.<br />
Korčula Tourist Board<br />
QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 58 67, <strong>info</strong>@<br />
visitkorcula.eu, www.visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 15:00,<br />
17:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. July, August Open 08:00<br />
- 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. September Open<br />
08:00 - 15:00, Sat 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.<br />
Lastovo<br />
Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes<br />
to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.<br />
Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well<br />
preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so<br />
access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to<br />
do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left<br />
pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched<br />
78 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
ecological paradise.<br />
Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else,<br />
a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a<br />
basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of<br />
pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm<br />
sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those<br />
with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at<br />
a culture so very detached from modern urban life.<br />
Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the<br />
wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s<br />
chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital<br />
aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional<br />
pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from<br />
Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes<br />
centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide<br />
on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at<br />
its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during<br />
summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume,<br />
where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered<br />
braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.<br />
With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore<br />
Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.<br />
Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and<br />
there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few<br />
families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able<br />
to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage<br />
of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love<br />
affair.<br />
Lastovo Tourist Board<br />
QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, tz-lastovo@du.t-com.<br />
hr, www.tz-lastovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Events<br />
04.06 Thursday - 08.10 Thursday<br />
Moreška Sword Dance<br />
A touch of chivalry returns annually to the island of<br />
Korčula with its most famous attraction, the traditional<br />
16th century sword battle dance (Moreška)<br />
which depicts the battle between the Moors<br />
and Christians. The Moreška was common across<br />
Mediterranean countries long ago and Korčula still<br />
proudly holds on to this 400 year old dance that is<br />
both mesmerising and seeks the skilful handling of<br />
swords.QKorčula.<br />
06.06 Saturday - 27.09 Sunday<br />
The Cavtat Summer<br />
Every summer, this marvellous cultural event brings<br />
the beautiful ancient town of Cavtat to life with<br />
an array of musical and dance performances (jazz,<br />
classical, Dalmatian klape and folk groups). The<br />
highlight of the event is the Cavtat Summer Carnival<br />
which takes place on the first weekend in July.<br />
All the events are for free.QCavtat, Main Square.<br />
15.06 Monday - 29.06 Monday<br />
Konavle Art, ‘Word & Music Festival’<br />
With its modest beginnings in 2007 which only<br />
included classical music concerts, the repertoire<br />
these days includes performances in other musical<br />
genres as well as theatre shows, film screenings, art<br />
pop music and exhibitions. Each year the increasing<br />
number of visitors and positive feedback testify<br />
to the large success of this only such festival in the<br />
Konavle area!QVarious locations.<br />
19.06 Friday<br />
Sword Dance Festival<br />
On guard! As this event presents and preserves<br />
a rich heritage of sword dancing on the island<br />
of Korčula. Set in original ambience, several of<br />
Korčula’s sword dance societies called ‘Kumpanjija’<br />
perform a type of chain dance with swords dating<br />
back as early as the 12th century. Come and see<br />
this amazing battle dance that carries the universal<br />
message of good overcoming bad.QKorčula.<br />
26.06 Friday - 04.09 Friday<br />
Kumpanjija and old folklore dances<br />
from Smokvica<br />
Chivalry is back and better than ever on the island<br />
of Korčula. Ever since the 16th century locals would<br />
partake in the Kumpanija and Moštra (chain and<br />
sword dances) which have become a staple of the<br />
island’s heritage and are still performed in several<br />
places. The skills, technique and flair as well as<br />
the costumes worn are quite a sight.QSmall Market,<br />
Smokvica, island of Korčula. Every Friday at<br />
21:00.<br />
Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />
01.07 Wednesday - 31.08 Monday<br />
Summer on the Elaphite Islands<br />
Enchanting Mediterranean melodies and traditional<br />
folklore festivities have been cherished for centuries<br />
on the Elaphite Islands near Dubrovnik, and this<br />
musical and cultural event has for a number of years<br />
been entertaining the visitors. Folklore dancing, Dalmatian<br />
klape and classical concerts are just some of<br />
the things held on the islands of Koločep, Lopud,<br />
Šipan and in Zaton and Orašac.QKoločep, Lopud,<br />
Šipan, Zaton, Orašac.<br />
04.07 Saturday - 05.07 Sunday<br />
Cavtat Summer Carnival<br />
Rio, eat your heart out! Welcome to a carnival atmosphere<br />
that has a 100 year tradition. Be what you<br />
wanna be in the last week of July. Locals and guests<br />
go all out and dress in costume, glitter and glare.<br />
Stages big and small are aplenty with live bands,<br />
street entertainers, jugglers, performers, and folk<br />
and a cappella groups that turn the whole town into<br />
a magical haven.QCavtat, Main Square.<br />
17.07 Friday<br />
Jumping into the Neretva<br />
A ‘Jumping Competition’ that attracts a large number<br />
of viewers is held next to the Lučki Bridge in<br />
Metković. Obstacles the contestants must compete<br />
include, swimming with a rubber ring, rowing in a<br />
large tractor tire, climbing up a rope to reach a piece<br />
of pršut, and jumping from small and large diving<br />
boards. Competitors include children, the young and<br />
the old. Special attention is paid to the ‘craziest jump’<br />
category.QMetković, www.tzmetkovic.hr.<br />
Smokvica Tourist Board Archives<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 79
Dubrovnik Surroundings<br />
25.07 Saturday<br />
Night of Folklore<br />
The wonderful old town of Ston is best known for its<br />
saltworks and especially its famous seven kilometre<br />
long walls made of stone. It is also the host to a traditional<br />
night of folklore dances and songs from all<br />
Croatian regions.QMain Square, Ston, www.ston.hr.<br />
29.07 Wednesday<br />
St. Theodore’s Day<br />
Nothing can hinder the beauty of this grand old tradition<br />
which highlights the influence of Christianity on<br />
the island. Three religious orders still thrive there so a<br />
holy procession is held with particular candles that are<br />
carried and named according to weight ‘Zero, Primo<br />
and others’.<br />
The highlight is the ‘Moreška’, a double sword dance<br />
dating from the 17th century which depicts a spectacular<br />
battle. See the sparks fly as swords clash, a symbol of<br />
the island’s freedom struggle.QKorčula, Main Square.<br />
08.08 Saturday<br />
The Neretva Boat (lađa) Marathon<br />
Be among the 50 000 viewers that attend this spectacle<br />
which promotes the protection of the lađa<br />
Neretva boat, an authentic, traditional vessel which<br />
for centuries was a means of transport. each year, an<br />
amateur rowing competition is held from Metković to<br />
Ploče, 22.5km along the Neretva river. Both towns are<br />
amassed with people and there are parades, concerts,<br />
and plenty of cheer.Qwww.maraton-ladja.hr.<br />
05.09 Saturday - 12.09 Saturday<br />
Korkyra Baroque Festival<br />
Not rock but purely baroque and such music lovers<br />
can choose from concerts with ensembles and solo<br />
artists from the USA, UK, Belgium, Russia, Greece and<br />
Croatia. In addition, there will also be lectures and<br />
other events pertaining to the musical style, come to<br />
think of it; this is a Baroque hot spot!QKorčula and<br />
Lumbarda, www.korkyrabaroque.com.<br />
09.09 Wednesday - 19.09 Saturday<br />
Epidaurus festival<br />
Created eight years ago, and run ever since by the<br />
pianist Ivana Marija Vidović, this festival attracts a<br />
multitude of classical and jazz musicians. Featuring<br />
theatre shows, operas, art exhibits, and a young talent<br />
series in an attractive open air venue.QCavtat,<br />
Konavle, Epidaurus.festival@gmail.com, www.<br />
epidaurusfestival.com.<br />
20.09 Sunday<br />
Ston Wall Marathon<br />
This unique marathon race takes place in the equally<br />
unique location, the Ston Wall, also known as the ‘European<br />
Wall of China’. This massive stoned wall was<br />
built as another line of defence by the Republic of Ragusa<br />
in the 15th century. Take part in a race along the<br />
longest wall in Europe by choosing any route from 4<br />
km, 15 km or 42 km and enjoy some of the most stunning<br />
views at your very own pace.QSton.<br />
Korčula Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Neven Fazinic<br />
80 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Dubrovnik is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural<br />
treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of a<br />
spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited<br />
to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and generally pottering<br />
around.<br />
The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mission<br />
to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit that<br />
watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch a ferry to<br />
an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous<br />
walking trails forge through untouched Mediterranean<br />
landscapes.<br />
Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik region<br />
is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering halfor<br />
full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of Lokrum,<br />
Koločep and Lopud.<br />
Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beautifully<br />
rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik to the<br />
Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office publishes a series<br />
of free mountain biking maps to the region, and guided bike<br />
tours can be booked at travel agents in both Dubrovnik and<br />
Cavtat.<br />
With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal waters<br />
near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or horse<br />
riding in the Konavle, there’s no shortage of variety.<br />
Leisure<br />
Adventure<br />
Adventure Dalmatia<br />
Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Konavle.<br />
More <strong>info</strong>rmation on 091 566 59 42 and 091 526<br />
38 13.QPile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091<br />
526 38 13, <strong>dubrovnik</strong>@adventuredalmatia.com, www.<br />
adventuredalmatia.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.<br />
Dubrovnik Adventures<br />
Excursions from one day to more of the gorgeous Konavle<br />
region! Travel on foot, hire a bike or hmmm gallop a donkey,<br />
you choose. Tours include visits to local wine and olive<br />
oil producers as well as opting to sight-see the Dubrovnik<br />
Walls and kayaking to the island of Lokrum.Qtel. (+385-)<br />
099 667 77 00, <strong>info</strong>@<strong>dubrovnik</strong>adventures.com, www.<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>adventures.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Kojan koral<br />
Two hours of horse riding in the Konvale countryside, which<br />
even a total beginner can enjoy: helmets, insurance, and<br />
instructions are provided. They also offer ATV Quad Safaris<br />
across the differing terrain of the Konavle mainland. Intended<br />
for groups of 7 - 14 people, priced 550 - 650kn per person.<br />
QPopovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 098 60 69 29, <strong>info</strong>@<br />
kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and<br />
by prior arrangement.<br />
Big game fishing<br />
Big Game Fishing<br />
Qtel. (+385-) 091 419 14 50/(+385-) 091 419 14 54, www.<br />
biggame<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com. Open by prior arrangement.<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 81
Leisure<br />
Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board Archives<br />
Cycling<br />
Teuta<br />
QTrumbićev put 3, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 97 86/(+385-<br />
) 091 882 57 97, <strong>info</strong>@cavtat.biz, www.cavtat.biz. Open<br />
09:00 - 21:00. 25kn/hour, 100kn/day. A<br />
Scuba Diving<br />
Abyss - Diving & Water-sport Centre<br />
QG-2, Ive Dulčića 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach),<br />
tel. (+385-) 099 256 12 56/(+385-) 098 24 43 49, diving.<br />
hr@gmail.com, www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>diving.com. Open 09:00 -<br />
18:00. Open 09:00 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. A<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Blue Planet<br />
For <strong>info</strong> out of season call 091 899 09 73.QF-3, Masarykov<br />
put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09<br />
73, <strong>info</strong>@blueplanet-diving.com, www.blueplanet-diving.<br />
com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Open 09:00 - 19:00.<br />
Diving Club Dubrovnik<br />
On Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour.QG/H-1, Solitudo Bay,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, rk@du-diver.hr,<br />
www.du-diver.hr. Open by prior arrangement.<br />
Tennis<br />
Dubrovnik Tennis Club<br />
QH-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73<br />
55, teniskiklub<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00.<br />
80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay<br />
100kn.<br />
Dubrovnik's premier boutique spa!<br />
FIND US AT<br />
1st Floor Berkeley Hotel<br />
Andrije Hebranga 116a Dubrovnik<br />
+385 20 494 163<br />
www.spaberkeley.com<br />
•OPI Manicures•<br />
•OPI Pedicures•<br />
•Massages•<br />
•Dermalogica Facials•<br />
•Dermalogica Body Treatments•<br />
•Dermalogica Retail Products•<br />
82 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Bland souvenir shops are gradually taking over Dubrovnik’s<br />
main thoroughfares, and if you really think that a ceramic<br />
mug bearing the word ‘Dubrovnik’ is going to look good in<br />
someone’s kitchen cupboard back home, then you certainly<br />
won’t have too much trouble finding one.<br />
Those with both taste and the time to exercise it will find a<br />
huge range of traditional crafts, sold either by street sellers<br />
or in characterful stores in the narrow alleys of the Old Town.<br />
One of the most authentic local products is jewellery. Jewellery<br />
was an integral part of local folk costume and also<br />
played an important part in local family ritual, with female<br />
children receiving earrings at baptism and at other important<br />
stages in their lives.<br />
It was traditionally around Zlatarska ulica (Goldsmiths’<br />
Street) that the main jewellery workshops were to be found,<br />
although these days they are more randomly scattered<br />
throughout the Old Town. What hasn’t changed is that the<br />
jewellery sold in the filigree shops has often been made on<br />
the premises by local artisans, using traditional folk designs<br />
as inspiration. Especially attractive are traditional earrings<br />
in gold or silver filigree, and large hoop- or drop-earrings<br />
adorned with baubles.<br />
Konavle, the region southeast of Dubrovnik, produces a<br />
distinctive style of embroidery, rich in brightly coloured<br />
geometric shapes. Dazzling white blouses with intricately<br />
embroidered borders were once a standard form of female<br />
attire, and items like these can still be picked up on souvenir<br />
stalls. Konavle embroidery is also used to decorate more<br />
modern items such as tablecloths and handkerchiefs.<br />
Dubrovnik’s souvenir shops also sell a great deal of quality<br />
products that are common to the whole of Croatia, especially<br />
food-and-drink items such as natural honey, olive oil<br />
and herb-flavoured rakijas. One of the best places to pick<br />
up these is the daily outdoor market on Gundulićeva poljana,<br />
although most delicatessens in town also carry a good<br />
selection.<br />
Shopping<br />
Accessories<br />
Art Go’Den<br />
A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand. Your<br />
chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and scarves designed<br />
with Dubrovnik historical or marine motifs or even<br />
the same leather bag that we heard Roger Moore bought<br />
for his wife during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival! Also at<br />
Radisson Blue Resort&Spa, Valamar Lacroma Resort, Rixos<br />
Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel and Valamar Dubrovnik President.<br />
QK-3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik),<br />
tel. (+385-) 099 314 84 11, enter-<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.doo@du.tcom.hr,<br />
www.artgoden.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00<br />
- 21:00. A<br />
Magnolika<br />
Offering shnazzy non-conventional jewellery, funky t-<br />
shirts, bags and other designer gems made authentically<br />
here in Croatia.QB-2, Getaldićeva 7, tel. (+385-) 099 885<br />
69 10, magnolika.art@gmail.com, www.magnolika.<br />
com. Open Tu - Fri 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 ; Sat 10:00<br />
- 13:00 ; Sun & Mon cls. A<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 83
Shopping<br />
Art galleries<br />
AR Atelier 2<br />
A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items<br />
made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle<br />
embroidery.QC-2, Nalješkovićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 17<br />
21Research completed: Feb 25 15, 3.00pm by Eli/(+385-<br />
) 091 201 19 99, antonia.ruskovic@gmail.com, www.<br />
antoniaruskovic.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Artur<br />
A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian<br />
art. They also have art workshops during whole year<br />
so if you are interested you know what to do...QB-3,<br />
Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28<br />
53 98, arturgallery@hotmail.com, www.arturgallery.<br />
com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. A<br />
Heritage Gallery & Shop<br />
A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old<br />
Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian<br />
culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose<br />
from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful<br />
items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times<br />
right through to the present.QL-2, Petra Krešimira IV 7,<br />
tel. (+385-) 098 20 91 50, aleksandra@terra-marique.<br />
hr. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Homa Gallery<br />
A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter<br />
Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress<br />
your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings<br />
is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspiration.QC-2,<br />
Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 834 05 73.<br />
Open 10:00 - 16:00. Open from March. N<br />
Klarisa Gallery<br />
Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house<br />
and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming<br />
gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of<br />
Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there<br />
are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by<br />
young Croatian fashion designers.QC-2, Antuninska 1,<br />
tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44, jelenapacesentovic@yaResearch<br />
completed: Feb 25 15, 3.40pm by Elihoo.com.<br />
Open 12:00 - 21:00. Jul - Nov open 11:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Romana atelier<br />
Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.<br />
QC-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98<br />
98/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, <strong>info</strong>@romana-milutin.com,<br />
www.romana-milutin.com. Open 10:00 - 15:00, 16:00<br />
- 21:00. A<br />
Sv. Luka<br />
See works of Croatian artists inside a pre-Romanesque<br />
church dating back to the 9th century.QC-2, Sv. Dominika<br />
bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 03/(+385-) 098 61 79 37, bkurilic@<br />
globalnet.hr. Open Jul - Oct 10:00 - 22:00. A<br />
84 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
Workshop Be Craft<br />
This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass,<br />
stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the<br />
Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located close to<br />
the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed.<br />
QL-2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46,<br />
du@becraft.eu, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
chIC & CHEERFUL<br />
Cvijet by Kike<br />
For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion, from<br />
weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower shop will<br />
help you show your loved ones you care with a beautiful<br />
gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of bouquets and<br />
holiday decorations to choose from that will suit any taste.<br />
QG-2, Miljenka Bratoša 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 10 32, www.<br />
cvijetbykike.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
cigar shop<br />
La Casa del Habano<br />
Wide selection of cigars from Cuba and Dominican Republic.QC-3,<br />
Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 484 91 62,<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@havana-cigar-shop.com, www.camelot.hr.<br />
Open 12:00 - 00:00. A<br />
Delicatessen<br />
Dubrovačka kuća<br />
A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks<br />
to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all<br />
local or Croatian.QD-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />
20 92, lucija.oresic@du.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. A<br />
Franja coffee & teahouse<br />
A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenir-wrapped<br />
delicatessen and porcelain.QC-3, Od Puča<br />
9, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 16, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.<br />
franja.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Gligora Wine & Cheese Shop<br />
Situated in the city’s harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a large<br />
selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The various<br />
delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family in the<br />
town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag. The Gligora<br />
family has won numerous awards, including the World<br />
Cheese Award, for it’s Dinarski mixed cheese made from cow<br />
and sheep’s milk. Other well-known cheeses they produce<br />
include, Kozlar made from goat’s milk and Paški cheese from<br />
sheep’s milk.QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 13, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 41 00, <strong>info</strong>@gligora.com, www.gligora.com. Open<br />
07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. AGB<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Shopping<br />
Kraš<br />
The confectionary company Croatians have known and<br />
loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets,<br />
or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC-2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open Jun/Sep 08:00 - 22:00 ;<br />
Jul - Aug Open 08:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Oleoteka Uje<br />
Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide<br />
range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Brač<br />
and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean<br />
spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles!QC-2, Placa bb, Stradun,<br />
www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00. April 09:00 -<br />
21:00, May 09:00 - 23:00, June - October 09:00 - 00:00,<br />
November 10:00 - 17:00. A<br />
Škar Winery<br />
Ahoy, Mateys! This unique wine and souvenir shop is located<br />
in an old shipyard in the city’s stunning harbour.<br />
The small family-run business started selling it’s homemade<br />
Lekri wines four years ago. The grapes are grown<br />
and picked in their vineyards on Pelješac and brought to<br />
the winery in Dubrovnik where the superb Plavac mali, a<br />
supreme dry red wine and Rukatac, a quality dry white<br />
wine are produced. The Krile family also makes liqueurs<br />
with a diverse assortment of flavors- careb, cherry, lemon<br />
and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made<br />
by local Dubrovnik artists. This extraordinary wine tasting<br />
experience is not to be missed! QH-2, Lapadska obala<br />
17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00<br />
- 22:00.<br />
Vinoteka Miličić<br />
Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top<br />
quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves.QC-2,<br />
Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 77. Open Jun 09:00 -<br />
21:00; Jul - Sep 09:00 - 23:00; Oct 09:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 12:00. A<br />
DESIGNER CLOTHING<br />
Croatian Designers Room<br />
Is fashion your fetish and forte? Then look no further, this<br />
is the ‘be all end all’ of Croatian mainstream fashion with<br />
great choices of clothes made by the most famous Croatian<br />
designers, all found in the one place.QC-3, Od puča<br />
11. Open Jun/Sep 10:00 - 21:00 ; Jul - Aug 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
A<br />
Maria<br />
If you forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella Mc-<br />
Cartney shoes, or Celine handbag, then Maria is the place<br />
to stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in<br />
equal measure, it’s the kind of shop that makes you feel<br />
glamorous just by looking through the window.QD-2, Sv.<br />
Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30, <strong>info</strong>@mariastore.<br />
hr, www.mariastore.hr. Open Jun/Sep 10:00 - 20:00 ;<br />
Jul - Aug 10:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Modni kantun<br />
A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed<br />
with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most<br />
items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it’s<br />
a little pricey but definitely unique and stylish.QD-2,<br />
Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41. Open 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
A<br />
XD Xenia Design<br />
Designer who make custom clothing suited to your size<br />
and personality.QG-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos<br />
Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17,<br />
<strong>info</strong>@xenia-design.hr, www.xenia-design.hr. Open<br />
through the year 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun<br />
cls. ; Jul - Aug 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun 9:00<br />
- 12:00. A<br />
Jewellery<br />
Clara Stones<br />
Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully<br />
chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious<br />
stones, which may leave some women breathless.<br />
The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department<br />
which shows how a coral branch is worked on and<br />
the different phases of its lifecycle.QC-2, Nalješkovićeva<br />
8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, <strong>info</strong>@clarastones.com, www.<br />
clarastones.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JA<br />
Dubrovnik Treasures<br />
Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of high-quality<br />
jewelry for a great price. Along with authentic and traditional<br />
Croatian jewelry, they also have many pieces made<br />
with a unique or modern design. Each piece of jewelry<br />
is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers, using a<br />
combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as well<br />
as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil.<br />
QB-2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98,<br />
simonafarac@gmail.com, www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>treasures.<br />
com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Križek<br />
This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in<br />
1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery<br />
created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a<br />
wide selection of wedding rings.QC-2, Boškovićeva 2,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.zlatarna-krizek.hr. Open<br />
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Souvenirs<br />
Baboon<br />
Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts.<br />
QI-2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/<br />
(+385-) 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo.com, www.<br />
suvenirnica-baboon.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 -<br />
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. W<br />
86 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
DUTY<br />
FREE<br />
SHOP<br />
www.airport-<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hr<br />
tel: +385 (20) 773-333<br />
DUTY FREE SHOPPING?<br />
NO PROBLEM!!!<br />
You can fly<br />
with all you buy!
Shopping<br />
Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives<br />
Bačan Handmade Products<br />
Here you can go all out ‘folk’ with national costumes,<br />
blouses and table cloths all decorated with Konavle embroidery<br />
on sale.QD-2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 11<br />
21, lena.janjalija@<strong>dubrovnik</strong>portal.com. Open 09:30 -<br />
15:30, 17:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:30 - 15:30. JN<br />
Duty Free Shop<br />
One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free.<br />
The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range<br />
of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is<br />
the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which<br />
will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have<br />
to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international<br />
flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last<br />
designated flight.QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle.<br />
Ivo Biočina - Decorative sculptors workshop<br />
A small sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures,<br />
holy crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik<br />
coat of arms and more. See how this exceptional<br />
combination of stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik motifs.<br />
Truly original!QD-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-) 091<br />
536 40 56. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Palma<br />
Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from<br />
100kn.QC-3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel.<br />
(+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Open 09:00<br />
- 16:00.<br />
Tilda<br />
Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings<br />
cards and more.QD-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54,<br />
tilda<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@gmail.com, www.tilda<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com.<br />
Open 09:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Waxing lyrical<br />
Looking for a souvenir for the pyromaniac maritime enthusiast<br />
in your life? How about a wax model of the Karaka (a<br />
type of historic wooden merchant ship made in Dubrovnik)<br />
which doubles as a fully functioning candle? All joking<br />
aside, these models are painstakingly made by Tonći Jonjić,<br />
who researches and creates models of historic Croatian<br />
boats. His wax Karaka won a prize for being among the<br />
best original souvenirs of the Dubrovnik region. If you’re<br />
eager to have it, go to the nearest tourist board or simplly<br />
call 098 939 43 83.Qtel. (+385-) 098 939 43 83, <strong>info</strong>@<br />
vostanibrod.com, www.vostanibrod.com.<br />
Medusa<br />
Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just<br />
the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually<br />
wants. Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including<br />
olive oils, brandies, and sponges from the spongefishing<br />
island of Krapanj.QB/C-2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 20 04/(+385-) 098 175 17 41, <strong>info</strong>@medusa.hr, www.<br />
medusa.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Museum shop<br />
The Rector’s Palace is where guests can acquire some of the<br />
more sophisticated and more exclusive gifts and souvenirs.<br />
QD-3, Pred dvorom 3 (Rector’s Palace), tel. (+385-20) 32<br />
10 39, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. AW<br />
88 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
5 stars<br />
Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik<br />
QK-3, Marijana Blažića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20,<br />
fax (+385-20) 32 02 20, sales.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@hilton.<br />
com, www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.hilton.com. 147 rooms<br />
(147 doubles). From €250 per room/per night.<br />
PTJHA6UFLGBKDCwW<br />
hhhhh<br />
Importanne Hotels & Resort<br />
QKardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, fax<br />
(+385-20) 44 02 00, <strong>info</strong>@importanneresort.com,<br />
www.importanneresort.com. 291 rooms (212 doubles<br />
€150 - 300, 79 apartments €190 - 600). PZi<br />
HARUFLGBKDCwW<br />
Kazbek<br />
QH-2, Lapadska obala 25, tel. (+385-20) 36 29<br />
99, fax (+385-20) 36 29 09, <strong>info</strong>@kazbek.hr, www.<br />
kazbek<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.com. 13 rooms (12 doubles €139<br />
- 445, 1 suite €226 - 404). PZHA6LGK<br />
DCW hhhhh<br />
Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik<br />
fax (+385-20) 20 00 20, libertas@rixos.com, www.rixos.<br />
com. 254 rooms (237 singles €105 - 255, 237 doubles<br />
€140 - 300, 16 suites €400 - 800, 1 Presidential Suite<br />
€500 - 2000). PZiTHAUFLGB<br />
KDCwW hhhhh<br />
The Pucić Palace<br />
QC-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 62 22, fax (+385-<br />
20) 32 62 23, reception@thepucicpalace.com, www.<br />
thepucicpalace.com. 19 rooms (1 single €230 - 300, 16<br />
doubles €355 - 560, 1 suite €780 - 970, 1 Junior Suite<br />
€560 - 690). PZTJAR6GBKW hh<br />
hhh<br />
SYMBOL key<br />
P Air conditioning<br />
O Casino<br />
T Child-friendly<br />
F Fitness centre<br />
R LAN connection<br />
K Restaurant<br />
D Sauna<br />
I Fireplace<br />
B Outside seating<br />
A Credit cards accepted<br />
H Conference facilities<br />
U Facilities for the disabled<br />
L Guarded parking<br />
6 Pet-friendly<br />
J Old town location<br />
C Swimming pool<br />
W Wifi<br />
Hotels<br />
Valamar Dubrovnik President<br />
QF-1, Iva Dulčića 142, tel. (+385-20) 44 11 00, fax<br />
(+385-20) 43 56 00, reservations@valamar.com, www.<br />
valamar.com. 286 rooms (286 doubles €159 - 438).<br />
PiHARUFLGBKDCwW hh<br />
hhh<br />
4 stars<br />
Lapad<br />
QH-2, Lapadska obala 37, tel. (+385-20) 45 55 55, fax<br />
(+385-20) 45 55 51, sales@hotel-lapad.hr, www.hotellapad.hr.<br />
163 rooms (4 singles €77 - 153, 153 doubles<br />
€110 - 234, 4 suites €190 - 333, 2 Junior Suites €158 -<br />
304). PiHAULGBKCW hhhh<br />
Uvala<br />
QG-3, Masarykov put 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 80, fax<br />
(+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_uvala@hotelimaestral.com,<br />
www.hotelimaestral.com. 51 rooms (45 doubles €76 -<br />
108, 6 triples €61 - 86). Prices are per person per night.<br />
PHAIFLGBKDCwW hhhh<br />
Valamar Argosy<br />
QF-1, Iva Dulčića 140, tel. (+385-20) 44 61 00, fax<br />
(+385-20) 43 55 78, reservations@valamar.com, www.<br />
valamar.com. 308 rooms (308 doubles €99 - 270).<br />
PiTHARUFLEGBKDCwW<br />
hhhh<br />
Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik<br />
QF-2, Iva Dulčića 34, tel. (+385-20) 44 91 00, fax<br />
(+385-20) 44 96 00, reservations@valamar.com, www.<br />
valamar.com. 385 rooms (385 doubles €129 - 311).<br />
PiHARUFLGKDCwW hhhh<br />
3 stars<br />
Aquarius<br />
QG/H-2, Mata Vodopića 4a, tel. (+385-20) 45 61 11, fax<br />
(+385-20) 45 61 00, sales@hotel-aquarius.net, www.<br />
hotel-aquarius.net. 24 rooms (8 singles €85 - 124, 8<br />
doubles €120 - 176, 4 triples €168 - 245, 4 suites €140 -<br />
208). PiAULGBKW hhh<br />
Berkeley<br />
QJ-2, Andrije Hebranga 116a, tel. (+385-20) 49 41 60,<br />
fax (+385-20) 49 41 70, reservations@berkeleyhotel.<br />
hr, www.berkeleyhotel.hr. 24 rooms (22 doubles €80 -<br />
180, 2 apartments €110 - 235). PiALGCW<br />
hhh<br />
Komodor<br />
QG-3, Masarykov put 5, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 00, fax<br />
(+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_komodor@hotelimaestral.<br />
com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 63 rooms (8 singles €40<br />
- 98, 51 doubles €30 - 84, 4 triples €24 - 67). Prices are<br />
per person per night. PHALEBKCW<br />
hhh<br />
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2015 89
Hotels<br />
Lero<br />
QI-3, Iva Vojnovića 14, tel. (+385-20) 34 13 33, fax (+385-<br />
20) 33 21 23, booking@hotel-lero.hr, www.hotel-lero.hr.<br />
159 rooms (150 doubles €90 - 156, 9 apartments €138<br />
- 248). PiHA6UFLGBKDCwW<br />
hhh<br />
Petka<br />
QI-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. (+385-20)<br />
41 05 00, fax (+385-20) 41 01 27, <strong>info</strong>@hotelpetka.hr,<br />
www.hotelpetka.hr. 104 rooms (8 singles €84 - 100, 96<br />
doubles €110 - 140). PiHARLGBKW<br />
hhh<br />
Tirena<br />
QF-2, Iva Dulčića 36, tel. (+385-20) 44 51 00, fax (+385-<br />
20) 44 56 02, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.<br />
com. 208 rooms (208 doubles €83 - 215). Pi<br />
HAR6LGBKCW hhh<br />
Valamar Club Dubrovnik<br />
QF-2, Iva Dulčića 38, tel. (+385-20) 44 71 00, fax (+385-<br />
20) 44 76 03, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.<br />
com. 338 rooms (338 doubles €95 - 221). PiTA<br />
R6ULGBKCW hhh<br />
Vis<br />
QG-3, Masarykov put 4, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 55,<br />
fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_vis@hotelimaestral.<br />
com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 142 rooms (9 singles<br />
€40 - 98, 127 doubles €30 - 82, 6 triples €24 - 66).<br />
PALEGBKW hhh<br />
Hostels<br />
facebook.com/<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>inyourpocket<br />
Dubrovnik Youth Hostel<br />
QI-3, Vinka Sagrestana 3 (Bana Josipa Jelačića 15-<br />
17), tel. (+385-20) 42 32 41, fax (+385-20) 41 25 92,<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. 81 dorm beds,<br />
130 - 235kn per person. ARGBKW<br />
Fresh Sheets<br />
QB-4, Svetog Šimuna 15, tel. (+385-) 091 799 20 86,<br />
beds@igotfresh.com, www.freshsheetshostel.com.<br />
16 dorm beds, 18 - 40€ per person. AGW<br />
Vila Micika<br />
QG/H-2, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 32,<br />
fax (+385-20) 43 71 62, <strong>info</strong>@vilamicika.hr, www.<br />
vilamicika.hr. 16 dorm beds, 36 - 52€ per person.<br />
PA6GW<br />
90 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>.inyourpocket.com
Banks & Exchanges<br />
Erste&Steiermarkische Bank<br />
QI-2, Vukovarska 26, tel. (+385-) 072 37 46 85/(+385-)<br />
0800 78 90 free <strong>info</strong>, www.erstebank.hr. Open 08:00 -<br />
18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Hypo-alpe-adria bank<br />
QI-2, Vukovarska 15, tel. (+385-) 072 10 11 02, www.<br />
hypo-alpe-adria.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />
12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
OTP banka<br />
Also at Placa 16 - Stradun, tel. 072 20 13 16.QI-2, Vukovarska<br />
19, tel. (+385-) 072 20 12 00, www.otpbanka.<br />
hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Privredna banka<br />
QI-2, Ante Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 72 00 70,<br />
pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Raiffeisen bank<br />
QI-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 32 05 00, www.rba.<br />
hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun.<br />
Sberbank<br />
QI-2, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 35 89 00, www.<br />
sberbank.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Zagrebačka banka<br />
Also at Gundulićeva Poljana bb, tel. 32 25 52, Open 08:00<br />
- 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.QI-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 45, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 32 25 15, www.zaba.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Dry cleaners & Laundries<br />
Amo Wash & Dry<br />
QI-3, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. (+385-20) 33 33 47/(+385-) 099<br />
501 63 02. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 -<br />
15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Elegant<br />
Dry cleaners.QI-1, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. (+385-)<br />
098 42 86 71/(+385-) 099 760 01 53. Open 08:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N<br />
Sanja & Rosie’s Laundrette<br />
Retro self-service laundromat. Group drop-off service<br />
available only upon request.QE-1, Put od Bosanke 2<br />
(outside Ploce Gate), tel. (+385-) 091 896 75 09, <strong>info</strong>@<br />
<strong>dubrovnik</strong>laundry.com, www.<strong>dubrovnik</strong>laundry.com.<br />
Open 08:00 - 22:00. Washing - 50kn per load (up to<br />
9kg), Drying - 10 kn per 10 minutes (up to 9kg), 25kn<br />
per 30 minutes.<br />
Pets<br />
Bobanović<br />
Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on 098 /<br />
24 39 38.QH-2, Kneza Domagoja 4, Lapad, tel. (+385-20)<br />
35 73 45/(+385-) 098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.t-com.hr.<br />
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Fauna<br />
Veterinary clinic. For emergency call 098 191 26 94.QI-2,<br />
Rožat 32, tel. (+385-20) 45 14 66, v.a-fauna@du.t-com.<br />
hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
A<br />
Pharmacies<br />
Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by<br />
either Kod Zvonika pharmacy or Gruž pharmacy .<br />
Gruž<br />
QH-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 89<br />
90. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
A<br />
Kod male braće<br />
QB-2, Placa 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 11. Open 07:00 -<br />
19:30, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Kod zvonika<br />
QC-2, Placa 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 33. Open 07:00 -<br />
20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Lapad<br />
QG/H-2, M.Vodopića 30, tel. (+385-20) 43 67 78. Open<br />
07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Post<br />
If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can<br />
buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re<br />
right value for what you are sending and where.Once you<br />
put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small<br />
yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.<br />
Central Post Office<br />
QI-2, Vukovarska 16, tel. (+385-20) 36 20 68. Open<br />
07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Mljet Tourist Board Archives<br />
Directory<br />
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