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Longshore Current Measurement<br />

Longshore currents affect shorelines by redistributing sand and sediment along their path. This<br />

redistribution is also known as littoral drift. Longshore currents form because waves are continuous and, in<br />

most cases, approach the shore at an angle. When a wave enters shallow water it is slowed by the rising<br />

sandy or rocky bottom that is rising upward making a shallow edge. This friction eventually causes breakers<br />

(the water you see toppling over at the water’s edge). As one wave meets the shore and breaks, another wave<br />

is right behind it, preventing the broken wave from flowing backward. This causes a “build-up” of water at<br />

the shoreline. This “build-up” of water is then forced to form a current that flows parallel to the shore close<br />

to the water’s edge.<br />

Equipment: Tape measure to measure off 10 meters, at least two oranges or pieces of driftwood; a<br />

stopwatch or a wristwatch with a second hand.<br />

Procedure:<br />

1. Measure and mark off a 10-meter long line parallel to the ocean.<br />

2. Determine which direction the longshore current is flowing by tossing an orange into the water just<br />

beyond the breakers. Observe to see which direction the orange drifts.<br />

3. Post one person each at the beginning and end of the 10-meter line and instruct them to look<br />

straight ahead towards the water. Supply the person at the beginning of the line (the direction from<br />

which the current is coming) with a stopwatch or a wristwatch with a second hand.<br />

4. Go to the water’s edge slightly past the beginning of the line and toss an orange or piece of<br />

driftwood into the breakers (just behind the white foam at the top of the wave). When the orange<br />

passes the start line the person there should start timing.<br />

5. The person at the other end should signal the timekeeper as soon as the orange passes his or her<br />

post. The time is then recorded and the data sheet (page 79) is used to calculate the speed or the<br />

velocity of the longshore current.<br />

(Source: The Education Program at the New Jersey Marine Sciences Consortium)<br />

77 DRAFT AUGUST 2015

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