MF_Arti_Rev3

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The Art of Bespoke
Jewellery Design
Innovation in craft, design and art is changing
the way we live and work in a global society. The
search for all things new is what keeps the work
fresh for people in the creative industry. That’s
how Compaca, a creative partnership between
ceramic artist Arti Gidwani and silversmith Vibeke
Lorentzen, was established. As designers, they try
not to take the easy way out by creating traditional
pieces or collections, but are continuously
experimenting and pushing the boundaries to
express their artistic thoughts and values.
Story by A. Gidwani
photo by Bagus Tri Laksono
The brilliance behind
Compaca lies in the
dynamic fusion of Arti’s
ceramic background
and Vibeke’s jewellery
design and silversmithing
expertise.
Compaca prides itself, first and foremost, on its
reliance on meticulous craftsmanship and the
resulting unmistaken originality reflected in each
finished piece. No two hand-made works are the
same. Even with a pair of earrings each one will be
slightly different in shape, pattern or colour from its
counterpart.
The core design concept focuses on both clay and
silver. It is totally enamored with the earthy living
quality of these two materials. Being utterly familiar
with the materials, helps in translating the ideas into
reality. The first step in that process is to construct
the clay piece into an original form. Once the form is
viable, it is allowed to rest and dry. The dried piece
then goes in the kiln for its first firing, called the
bisquit firing. The next step before a second firing is to
add life and colour by hand painting or spray-glazing.
Like the clay process, the subsequent silvering
involves hand-cutting and individual forming.
Sometimes there is a need to create similar designs
and shapes, in which case a gypsum template is cast
to simplify the process, but with the promise that
there will be no exact repeats. All the silver is formed
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into shape with shears, hammers, sanders and
grinders, and brazed together with a welding torch.
It is a laborious process and requires acute attention
to detail.
The challenge lies in maintaining a consistently
high level of quality from design through to production.
The natural variability of the raw materials can
sometimes affect the process. Since clay, for example,
is unpredictable by nature, there is a possibility that
the final product turns out differently than planned,
taking a different shape or bearing a different and
undesired effect. When that happens the entire
production process has to be repeated again from the
very beginning.
To avoid unforeseen chaos, Arti & Vibeke delegate
and understand each others responsibilities as a
team. They have also made a conscious effort to use
environmentally friendly materials such as non-toxic
lead-free glaze to color the ceramics, to source the
clay from Sukabumi and to avoid the use of chemical
additives.
Besides listening to their customers, both

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designers stay inspired by looking around them and
deriving ideas from emotions, experiences, nature,
and more. The lineup that mirrors their fondness of
nature has been their signature collection; it is a theme
close to everyone hearts. Simultaneously, they try to
express various human relationships and experiences
in this world through their visually beautiful, diverse
and dramatic line of jewellery. For them creativity
is a process that evolves continuously, and they are
evolving with it. But one thing stays constant, they
hope the wearers feel that je ne sais quoi.
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