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Look out for beetles<br />

While some beetles, especially<br />

ladybirds and various ground<br />

beetles will eat a range of insect<br />

pests, others are more of a problem.<br />

These are the big three nuisance<br />

beetles to look out for.<br />

Vine weevil<br />

1 While the<br />

nocturnal adult<br />

beetles eat ‘mouthshaped’<br />

notches<br />

from the edges of<br />

many plants, the rooteating,<br />

C-shaped, creamy-white<br />

grubs cause most damage.<br />

2Lily beetle<br />

The red adult lily<br />

beetle may look<br />

attractive, but it and<br />

its grubs can strip<br />

leaves and flower<br />

buds from a plant in<br />

just a few days. Check<br />

leaf undersides for adults,<br />

grubs and clusters of orange eggs.<br />

3Viburnum beetle<br />

Viburnum beetle<br />

grubs start attacking<br />

this month, making<br />

holes and leaving<br />

leaves looking<br />

like lace doilies.<br />

Viburnum tinus<br />

and V. opulus are<br />

their favourites.<br />

A well-planted pond<br />

is a boon for wildlife<br />

STOCK UP PONDS & WATER FEATURES<br />

Now is an ideal time to<br />

restock ponds and water<br />

features with new plants.<br />

Try to grow a selection of<br />

marginal plants at the<br />

edge to create some shade<br />

and provide protection for<br />

wildlife. For best results,<br />

add waterlilies and other<br />

floating aquatics to cover<br />

at least one-third of the<br />

surface to keep water cool<br />

and prevent algae.<br />

l Dwarf waterlilies will<br />

spread 30-60cm (1-2ft), so<br />

they’re perfect for small<br />

ponds or even barrels<br />

30-45cm (12-18in) deep<br />

l Medium waterlilies<br />

reach 60-120cm (2-4ft) at<br />

a depth of 45- 75cm<br />

(18-30in)<br />

l Vigorous waterlilies up<br />

to 2.4m (8ft), need a depth<br />

of 75-120cm (2½-4ft)<br />

to grow and flower well.<br />

You can feed established<br />

plants by inserting aquatic<br />

slow-release fertiliser<br />

tablets into the planting<br />

basket compost.<br />

With a new pond, wait<br />

three weeks after filling<br />

and planting before adding<br />

any fish. If it’s to be a<br />

wildlife pond, don’t add<br />

fish at all as they’ll eat any<br />

frogspawn and so upset<br />

the natural balance.<br />

Geoff says: “Unless you need tall<br />

plants, pinch out the leading shoots on<br />

young seedlings of chrysanthemum,<br />

cosmos, fuchsia and helianthus plants,<br />

to encourage really bushy growth.”<br />

Deal with diseases<br />

Some of our favourite flowering<br />

plants can suffer from crippling<br />

fungal diseases, such as powdery<br />

mildew, rust and rose blackspot.<br />

✿ Grow plants as strongly as<br />

possible, so they’re better able to<br />

fight off disease in the first place.<br />

✿ Water them well and use highpotash<br />

feeds that encourage more<br />

flowers and toughen up growth.<br />

✿ Protect susceptible plants with a<br />

chemical fungicide. It’s more<br />

effective to use fungicides to<br />

prevent disease than as a cure.<br />

Toughen up plants in a coldframe<br />

Young plants benefit from hardening off (acclimatising to<br />

colder outdoor conditions) before planting outside. Otherwise,<br />

they can suffer a severe shock, due to the wide deviation in<br />

conditions and temperatures, and fail to establish well – or die.<br />

1. Start by moving plants into a closed cold frame for 4-5 days.<br />

2. Open the frame in daytime but close it at night for 4-5 days.<br />

3. Open the frame day and night, but cover plants with<br />

horticultural fleece for 4-5 days.<br />

4. Finally expose plants unprotected to external conditions.<br />

l See page 75 for more advice on moving plants outdoors

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