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EASY GARDENING<br />

BOOST STRUCTURE<br />

Container-grown trees, shrubs and<br />

perennials can be planted all year<br />

round but will establish much faster<br />

if planted in spring – before<br />

temperatures get too warm and the<br />

soil starts to dry out. So, if you’re<br />

looking to boost the amount of<br />

permanent colour and structure in<br />

your beds and borders it’s best to<br />

get it done before summer arrives.<br />

Lavender, phormium, hardy<br />

fuchsia, penstemon and phygelius<br />

are best planted in spring.<br />

Cool down greenhouses and coldframes<br />

Even at this time of year, temperatures<br />

inside greenhouses, conservatories and<br />

growing frames can soar significantly on<br />

sunny days. Strong sunlight and hot<br />

temperatures can be very damaging to<br />

plants, especially seedlings and young<br />

plants. To prevent this from happening,<br />

Weatherwatch<br />

Summer’s nearly here,<br />

and it’s always tempting<br />

to get ahead by planting<br />

out tender bedding and<br />

vegetable plants. But<br />

chilly nights and even frosts<br />

are still a distinct possibility in May,<br />

so protect susceptible<br />

plants from damage by<br />

keeping them indoors<br />

a bit longer. Take<br />

time to harden<br />

them off or<br />

Thin out<br />

hardy annuals<br />

Any hardy annuals sown direct in the<br />

ground last month may need more<br />

space by now. This will ensure they<br />

develop and flower more<br />

profusely and help<br />

reduce problems<br />

with fungal<br />

diseases. For best<br />

results, thin in<br />

two or three<br />

stages at weekly<br />

intervals. The<br />

final spacings should be<br />

23-30cm (9-12in) apart,<br />

depending on the plants’<br />

eventual size and spread.<br />

✿ Sow more hardy annuals now, to<br />

enjoy months of colour.<br />

open doors and vents to increase air<br />

movement and ventilation on warm,<br />

sunny days, but close them again<br />

around 4pm.<br />

If the weather really warms up it’s<br />

worth applying a summer shading wash<br />

or putting up shading materials.<br />

Keep on mowing<br />

Weekly mowing is a must now the<br />

grass is growing fast to help you<br />

achieve a good quality, great-looking<br />

lawn. It’s quicker than mowing<br />

infrequently because you won’t need<br />

to empty the grassbox as often!<br />

A good mowing regime encourages<br />

fine-leaved grasses at the expense of<br />

coarser, weedier ones – and promotes<br />

a thicker lawn that discourages weeds<br />

and moss.<br />

✿ Keep grass around<br />

2.5-4cm (1-1½in) high.<br />

Raise the cutting height<br />

to 5cm (2in) in shady<br />

areas.<br />

✿ Apply a granular or<br />

liquid spring and<br />

summer feed now to help<br />

your lawn grow thick and<br />

green. Granular feeds last<br />

for some weeks.<br />

✿ Use a feed, weed and<br />

mosskiller to get rid of weeds<br />

and moss. This will also help to<br />

strengthen the grass.<br />

1<br />

DIG IN LOTS OF ORGANIC<br />

MATTER. This will get new<br />

plants off to a flying start.<br />

Well-rotted manure, garden<br />

compost or tree and shrub planting<br />

compost are ideal. Add bonemeal<br />

or a controlled-release plant food<br />

to help improve root growth and<br />

establishment.<br />

2<br />

WATER THE PLANT<br />

THOROUGHLY. Soak its<br />

roots before moving it into<br />

its new hole. Plant at the same<br />

depth the plant was originally<br />

growing then firm soil around its<br />

roots. Give the plants another<br />

good soaking to settle the soil<br />

around their roots.<br />

3<br />

MULCH THE SOIL. Add a<br />

7.5-10cm (3-4in) thick layer<br />

of bark (or gravel) to help<br />

retain soil moisture as well as<br />

discouraging weeds.<br />

➤<br />

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