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Hi-Fi Choice - May

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JITTERBUG<br />

USB <strong>Fi</strong>lter<br />

Quintet Black certainly comes to mind<br />

as an excellent upgrade consideration<br />

for you. However, if you fancy a change<br />

of manufacturer, then the new Hana<br />

SL (HFC 408) is a superb-sounding<br />

cartridge with an extremely<br />

competitive price tag. It offers a very<br />

refined sound and will perform really<br />

well in your setup.<br />

Cassette boy<br />

I would appreciate it if you could<br />

give me some advice regarding<br />

some gear. I am looking for a<br />

component that would create a<br />

typical tape signature sound. I<br />

pretty much fell in love with the<br />

sound of cassette in my old car<br />

and I’ve been looking to enjoy<br />

the same signature in my home<br />

system. Can you recommend<br />

something suitable?<br />

Guillaume, by email<br />

NR: <strong>Hi</strong> Guillaume, well, the obvious<br />

choice is to look for a secondhand<br />

cassette deck. As we said in our Guide<br />

To Buying Secondhand Audio Equipment<br />

in HFC 396, there are some real<br />

bargains to be had and you are likely<br />

to be able to pick up a Nakamichi or<br />

similar for a fraction of the new price<br />

as people are clearing space in their<br />

hi-fi racks to accommodate new<br />

equipment. Many items have been<br />

sitting unused for many years and<br />

some are in superb condition. <strong>Hi</strong>gh<br />

quality cassette tapes are also still<br />

readily available from all the usual<br />

outlets, including Amazon.<br />

Drunk and disorderly<br />

I have purchased a pair of DALI<br />

Ikon 1 Mark 2 speakers and I’m<br />

more than happy with them.<br />

For the price they offer a good<br />

degree of accuracy and respond<br />

well to my amplifier – the Rotel<br />

RA-10. During a manic drunk<br />

session last week the speakers<br />

got accidentally turned up to<br />

12 and this was too loud for my<br />

stereo – in the space of a couple<br />

of minutes the speakers had<br />

started sounding fuzzy and old.<br />

On the advice of a contact over<br />

the internet – who informed me<br />

that there was a residual charge<br />

in the drivers, which was<br />

affecting the performance – I left<br />

the stereo off for three days. This<br />

allowed the charge to naturally<br />

dissipate and they magically<br />

repaired themselves!<br />

I’m so happy I still have a<br />

stereo and I want to share this<br />

information with everybody<br />

I fell in love with the<br />

sound of tapes in<br />

my old car and want<br />

it in my hi-fi system<br />

because it could well save<br />

someone from throwing out a<br />

pair of speakers which could<br />

have been reused had they been<br />

given a little bit of a rest.<br />

Alex Hampson, by email<br />

CW: This is great news Alex, but you<br />

may have been lucky. Very few<br />

manufacturers give clear guidelines for<br />

safe volume levels alongside associated<br />

units of alcohol. Please drink and play<br />

music responsibly. Other readers<br />

should note that 12 is of course only a<br />

‘theoretical’ volume level, with 11<br />

being more widely accepted as the<br />

maximum possible, as pioneered by<br />

Spinal Tap in 1984.<br />

Ethos excitement<br />

I am writing to you from Sydney,<br />

Australia. Although far away,<br />

I have been getting my <strong>Hi</strong>-<strong>Fi</strong><br />

<strong>Choice</strong> every month for years.<br />

I recently had a hybrid power<br />

amp, which I used with a<br />

PrimaLuna Prologue Premium<br />

Can a £39 insect make all<br />

your CD files sound better than<br />

<strong>Hi</strong>-Res?<br />

Yes and no: Using the same<br />

equipment and a quality DAC, a 24/96<br />

file (for example) will always sound<br />

better than a CD 16/44.1 file … but,<br />

even a single JitterBug will often<br />

allow a CD file to be more musical and<br />

more emotionally stimulating than<br />

a <strong>Hi</strong>-Res file without the benefit of a<br />

JitterBug.<br />

Noise is the problem. Real noise—<br />

the kind you can’t hear directly. Most<br />

often, the word “noise” is used to<br />

describe tape hiss or a scratch on a<br />

record, but these sounds aren’t noise;<br />

they are properly reproduced sounds<br />

that we wish weren’t there.<br />

Problem noise is essentially random,<br />

resonant or parasitic energy, which<br />

has no meaning. It can’t be turned<br />

into discrete sounds, but it does<br />

compromise signal integrity and the<br />

performance of everything it touches.<br />

JitterBug’s dual-function lineconditioning<br />

circuitry greatly reduces<br />

the noise and ringing that plague both<br />

the data and power lines of USB ports,<br />

whether on a computer, streamer,<br />

home stereo or car audio front-panel<br />

USB input.<br />

A single JitterBug is used in between<br />

devices (i.e., in series) as shown<br />

below. For an additional “wow”<br />

experience, try a second JitterBug<br />

into another USB port on the same<br />

device (such as a computer). Whether<br />

the second port is vacant, or is<br />

feeding a printer or charging a phone,<br />

JitterBug’s noise-reduction ability is<br />

likely to surprise you. No, the printer<br />

won’t be affected—only the audio!<br />

While a JitterBug helps MP3s sound a<br />

lot more like music, high-sample-rate<br />

files have the most noise vulnerability.<br />

Try a JitterBug or two on all your<br />

equipment, but never more than two<br />

per USB bus. There is such a thing as<br />

too much of a good thing.<br />

Buying a<br />

secondhand<br />

tape deck on<br />

ebay needn’t<br />

break the bank

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