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GRADUATE FASHION WEEK SHAY D PETER JENSEN FESTIVALS ALEX PRITCHARD

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100 DISORDER MAGAZINE<br />

ANNIE MCKIE<br />

SARAH YOUNG talks to designer<br />

Annie Mckie about keeping it<br />

simple, upcycling and landing<br />

her dream job.<br />

Having recently graduated from Northumbria University,<br />

Annie Mckie has been making her mark on the fashion world,<br />

gaining attention from Vogue and other publications. With an<br />

emphasis on craftsmanship and a commitment to challenging<br />

the perceptions of high fashion, it’s no surprise that she’s been<br />

capturing the eyes and minds of many. We caught up with Annie<br />

to discuss her influences, pushing boundaries and landing her<br />

dream job.<br />

With a graduate collection focused on form, fabric and<br />

workmanship, Annie produced a series of garments made from<br />

upcycled canvas tents and boat sails. Produced as a reaction to<br />

sustainability within the industry, the deviceful designer expanded<br />

on her decision to tackle this topic by saying, “In this day and age<br />

of fast fashion, people are so quick to waste and dismiss things. I<br />

wanted to push the boundaries of what people think high fashion<br />

should be and to show that you don’t always have to use the most<br />

luxurious fabrics to make something desirable.”<br />

“I started with a journey back to<br />

where I grew up, a tiny seaside<br />

village in Scotland. I camped<br />

for the night on the beach and<br />

began to look at boat sails and<br />

tents...”<br />

Annie’s decision to upcycle was established during an internship<br />

with Christopher Raeburn, a designer renowned for the reappropriation<br />

of military fabrics. However, it wasn’t until she<br />

travelled back to her hometown that she decided exactly what<br />

direction the collection was going to take: “I started with a<br />

journey back to where I grew up, a tiny seaside village in Scotland.<br />

I camped for the night on the beach and began to look at boat<br />

sails and tents to influence silhouettes and construction methods<br />

so it just made sense to upcycle materials from them too.”<br />

into my garments.” This approach to design supports Annie’s<br />

ability to produce garments founded in durability and function<br />

whilst maintaining her aesthetic of simple, no-frills design with<br />

a powerful and contemporary edge, “I love simplicity and don’t<br />

think things need to be crazy or extreme to be considered fashion.”<br />

Following the success of her graduate collection, Annie has recently<br />

been appointed as assistant designer for BLACKBARRETT; the<br />

second line collection of Neil Barrett’s main line design concept.<br />

Having always been a huge inspiration to her, Annie was delighted<br />

to begin working for the prodigious designer, “It’s minimal,<br />

contemporary and muted which is my aesthetic too. I have<br />

always admired his style so to be working for BLACKBARRETT<br />

is amazing”.<br />

Landing the job, however, was down to much more than her<br />

groundbreaking collection, as Annie knew she would need to<br />

make a lasting impression. Taking it upon herself to create a<br />

brand-focused project prior to her interview demonstrated a clear<br />

sense of commitment and resides as Annie’s top tip to any future<br />

graduate, “I would advise graduates not to be shy about letting<br />

employers know how much they want a position at the company.<br />

I took it upon myself to do a small project for the brand; it wasn’t<br />

huge and didn’t take long but it showed I was serious.”<br />

“I would advise graduates<br />

not to be shy about letting<br />

employers know how much<br />

they want a position at the<br />

company.”<br />

Despite working with salvaged materials, Annie’s emphasis on<br />

technical mastery remained prevalent as she re-evaluated her<br />

construction methods, “The materials I used were really great to<br />

work with; I wasn’t restricted at all. For example, boat sails use a<br />

triple stitch method to reinforce the seams and this was worked

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