City Matters Edition 014 Christmas 2016
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CITYMATTERS.LONDON <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | Page 9<br />
Food <strong>Matters</strong><br />
Ember’s all fired up<br />
INTRODUCING THE LATEST SPARK TO SET UP SHOP IN PUDDING LANE<br />
bright sparks: Ember<br />
gets the seal of approval<br />
LET’S DO...<br />
NEW MEXICAN / Breddos Tacos<br />
True taco fans will be familiar with this Street Feast<br />
stalwart, which started off in a Hackney car park in 2011<br />
before launching a bestselling cookbook and repping<br />
London at the LA’s Tacolandia festival earlier this year.<br />
Now Breddos is putting down some roots, bringing the<br />
Clerkenwell crowd no fewer than 10 different taco options,<br />
plus tostadas and tlayudas (Mexican pizzas). Breakfast at<br />
this all-day taqueria brings blueberry churro French toast<br />
or Austin-style tacos, while the wood grill is fired up for<br />
dinner, dishing out spit roast Iberico Pork Al Pastor with<br />
roasted pineapple, sea urchin tostadas, mutton barbacoa<br />
and beef rib birria.<br />
82 Goswell Road EC1V 7DB<br />
EATING AT ALTITUDE / 1 Undershaft<br />
There’s about to be a new top dog of sky-high dining in London with the newly approved 73-storey<br />
building at 1 Undershaft to house the Capital’s highest restaurant. Designed by architect Eric Parry<br />
for Singaporean developers Aroland Holdings, the newly-nicknamed ‘Trellis’ building will have a<br />
free public viewing gallery and a restaurant higher than the Shard’s Gong (52nd floor) and the Heron<br />
Tower’s SushiSamba and Duck & Waffle (39th and 40th floors respectively). The tower isn’t slated for<br />
completion until well into the 2020s, so feel free to spoil your appetite for at least the next decade.<br />
1 Undershaft EC3P 3DQ<br />
DRINKS ON THE FLY / Aviary<br />
Two months after the opening of Burdock on<br />
the ground floor of the Royal London Hotel,<br />
hospitality giant the ETN Group is further<br />
adding to Finsbury Square’s culinary credentials<br />
with Aviary, a brand new drinking and dining<br />
destination on the roof. Perched 10 floors above<br />
the construction site that is Moorgate, Aviary<br />
takes its ornithological references very seriously,<br />
from the large ornate birdcage suspended above<br />
the stairway to the proud pair of peacocks<br />
heralding the venue’s entrance. The menu has<br />
been designed around high-quality British meat<br />
and fish cooked over charcoal, while cocktails<br />
embrace the botanical theme under headings<br />
like Floral & Elegant, Tricks & Treats, Coppers &<br />
Sharing Pineapples, and Deep & Dirty.<br />
22 Old Broad St EC2N 1HQ<br />
THERE are two overused clichés that spring<br />
to mind when one learns of the “top chefs,<br />
mixologists and sommeliers” that had a hand<br />
in creating Ember, the new late night drinking<br />
and dining destination on Pudding Lane.<br />
Spruiking a restaurant with a DJ booth for<br />
dining and dance, a cellar for small group<br />
gatherings, and a hidden bar for whiskey and<br />
sake tastings begs the question: is Ember trying<br />
to be too many things to too many people? Will<br />
it be a case of “many hands make light work” or<br />
“too many cooks spoil the broth”?<br />
Happily, the reality is far more of the former<br />
and only one or two cases of the latter; namely<br />
in the slightly bored looking DJ looking down at<br />
diners from her perch.<br />
But as for the food and drink, those top chefs,<br />
mixologists and sommeliers seem to be working<br />
in perfect harmony to make light work of a<br />
pleasant evening at Ember.<br />
Food is at the hand of executive chef Jonathan<br />
Villar, formerly head chef of Peter Gordon’s<br />
(now closed) Seven Dials cafe Kopapa and, more<br />
recently, a brief stint at Antipodean-style eatery<br />
Bronte in Trafalgar Square.<br />
In throwing lesser-known flavours into the<br />
mix, Villar has managed to inject fresh life into<br />
the archetypical Asian-European fusion cuisine.<br />
Think Korean ‘pajeon’ king prawns with<br />
calamari fritters and a spicy jam of chilli,<br />
wasabi and beetroot, inari tofu with an urad dal<br />
curry and coconut sambal, and the insta crowd<br />
pleasing wagyu beef and foie gras burger with<br />
smokey miso relish, streaky bacon and oozy<br />
Gruyere cheese on an avocado bun – as carbfree<br />
as a burger comes.<br />
Every dish on the menu has been designed to<br />
be paired with items from the extensive cocktail<br />
and wine list, whether it’s the Vietnamese goat<br />
curry with a light, fruity Gewürztraminer or<br />
the curious (but quite nice) hot-smoked salmon<br />
cheesecake with a Junmai sake.<br />
Signature cocktails are presented under the<br />
auspices of light, medium and dark: a refreshing<br />
Kimchi martini for lunch or pre-dinner, the<br />
rich and nutty River Dragon during the meal,<br />
and the Kiuchi Highball to wind down – though<br />
by the sound of the Japanese whisky, sherry<br />
chocolate bitters and amber ale concoction, the<br />
party might be just getting started.<br />
Reference<br />
There’s also the Kitsune, a cocktail designed<br />
to cleanse the palate with an Acmella Oleracea<br />
(otherwise known as an electric daisy), which<br />
alters your taste receptors in what is an odd<br />
and not exactly pleasurable experience, but one<br />
you’re unlikely find anywhere else in these parts.<br />
In fact, the only stereotype Ember does<br />
succumb to is in its name – a reference to its<br />
location in Pudding Lane, widely accepted as the<br />
starting point for the Great Fire of London. But<br />
with a launch amidst all the pomp surrounding<br />
the 350th anniversary of this catastrophic event,<br />
it is unlikely to spoil the broth.<br />
1a Pudding Lane EC3R 8AB<br />
Get everything you need for<br />
your <strong>Christmas</strong> Day Roast at<br />
Thompsons of Smithfield<br />
We supply a range of turkeys at<br />
unbeatable prices, as well as honey<br />
roast ham, pigs in blankets, smoked<br />
salmon, sausage stuffing, cheese, plus<br />
much more...<br />
Come down to our shop in Smithfield<br />
Market between 2am-9:30am<br />
Monday – Friday,<br />
to get all you need for your<br />
Festive Feast!