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City Matters Edition 014 Christmas 2016

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CITYMATTERS.LONDON <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | Page 9<br />

Food <strong>Matters</strong><br />

Ember’s all fired up<br />

INTRODUCING THE LATEST SPARK TO SET UP SHOP IN PUDDING LANE<br />

bright sparks: Ember<br />

gets the seal of approval<br />

LET’S DO...<br />

NEW MEXICAN / Breddos Tacos<br />

True taco fans will be familiar with this Street Feast<br />

stalwart, which started off in a Hackney car park in 2011<br />

before launching a bestselling cookbook and repping<br />

London at the LA’s Tacolandia festival earlier this year.<br />

Now Breddos is putting down some roots, bringing the<br />

Clerkenwell crowd no fewer than 10 different taco options,<br />

plus tostadas and tlayudas (Mexican pizzas). Breakfast at<br />

this all-day taqueria brings blueberry churro French toast<br />

or Austin-style tacos, while the wood grill is fired up for<br />

dinner, dishing out spit roast Iberico Pork Al Pastor with<br />

roasted pineapple, sea urchin tostadas, mutton barbacoa<br />

and beef rib birria.<br />

82 Goswell Road EC1V 7DB<br />

EATING AT ALTITUDE / 1 Undershaft<br />

There’s about to be a new top dog of sky-high dining in London with the newly approved 73-storey<br />

building at 1 Undershaft to house the Capital’s highest restaurant. Designed by architect Eric Parry<br />

for Singaporean developers Aroland Holdings, the newly-nicknamed ‘Trellis’ building will have a<br />

free public viewing gallery and a restaurant higher than the Shard’s Gong (52nd floor) and the Heron<br />

Tower’s SushiSamba and Duck & Waffle (39th and 40th floors respectively). The tower isn’t slated for<br />

completion until well into the 2020s, so feel free to spoil your appetite for at least the next decade.<br />

1 Undershaft EC3P 3DQ<br />

DRINKS ON THE FLY / Aviary<br />

Two months after the opening of Burdock on<br />

the ground floor of the Royal London Hotel,<br />

hospitality giant the ETN Group is further<br />

adding to Finsbury Square’s culinary credentials<br />

with Aviary, a brand new drinking and dining<br />

destination on the roof. Perched 10 floors above<br />

the construction site that is Moorgate, Aviary<br />

takes its ornithological references very seriously,<br />

from the large ornate birdcage suspended above<br />

the stairway to the proud pair of peacocks<br />

heralding the venue’s entrance. The menu has<br />

been designed around high-quality British meat<br />

and fish cooked over charcoal, while cocktails<br />

embrace the botanical theme under headings<br />

like Floral & Elegant, Tricks & Treats, Coppers &<br />

Sharing Pineapples, and Deep & Dirty.<br />

22 Old Broad St EC2N 1HQ<br />

THERE are two overused clichés that spring<br />

to mind when one learns of the “top chefs,<br />

mixologists and sommeliers” that had a hand<br />

in creating Ember, the new late night drinking<br />

and dining destination on Pudding Lane.<br />

Spruiking a restaurant with a DJ booth for<br />

dining and dance, a cellar for small group<br />

gatherings, and a hidden bar for whiskey and<br />

sake tastings begs the question: is Ember trying<br />

to be too many things to too many people? Will<br />

it be a case of “many hands make light work” or<br />

“too many cooks spoil the broth”?<br />

Happily, the reality is far more of the former<br />

and only one or two cases of the latter; namely<br />

in the slightly bored looking DJ looking down at<br />

diners from her perch.<br />

But as for the food and drink, those top chefs,<br />

mixologists and sommeliers seem to be working<br />

in perfect harmony to make light work of a<br />

pleasant evening at Ember.<br />

Food is at the hand of executive chef Jonathan<br />

Villar, formerly head chef of Peter Gordon’s<br />

(now closed) Seven Dials cafe Kopapa and, more<br />

recently, a brief stint at Antipodean-style eatery<br />

Bronte in Trafalgar Square.<br />

In throwing lesser-known flavours into the<br />

mix, Villar has managed to inject fresh life into<br />

the archetypical Asian-European fusion cuisine.<br />

Think Korean ‘pajeon’ king prawns with<br />

calamari fritters and a spicy jam of chilli,<br />

wasabi and beetroot, inari tofu with an urad dal<br />

curry and coconut sambal, and the insta crowd<br />

pleasing wagyu beef and foie gras burger with<br />

smokey miso relish, streaky bacon and oozy<br />

Gruyere cheese on an avocado bun – as carbfree<br />

as a burger comes.<br />

Every dish on the menu has been designed to<br />

be paired with items from the extensive cocktail<br />

and wine list, whether it’s the Vietnamese goat<br />

curry with a light, fruity Gewürztraminer or<br />

the curious (but quite nice) hot-smoked salmon<br />

cheesecake with a Junmai sake.<br />

Signature cocktails are presented under the<br />

auspices of light, medium and dark: a refreshing<br />

Kimchi martini for lunch or pre-dinner, the<br />

rich and nutty River Dragon during the meal,<br />

and the Kiuchi Highball to wind down – though<br />

by the sound of the Japanese whisky, sherry<br />

chocolate bitters and amber ale concoction, the<br />

party might be just getting started.<br />

Reference<br />

There’s also the Kitsune, a cocktail designed<br />

to cleanse the palate with an Acmella Oleracea<br />

(otherwise known as an electric daisy), which<br />

alters your taste receptors in what is an odd<br />

and not exactly pleasurable experience, but one<br />

you’re unlikely find anywhere else in these parts.<br />

In fact, the only stereotype Ember does<br />

succumb to is in its name – a reference to its<br />

location in Pudding Lane, widely accepted as the<br />

starting point for the Great Fire of London. But<br />

with a launch amidst all the pomp surrounding<br />

the 350th anniversary of this catastrophic event,<br />

it is unlikely to spoil the broth.<br />

1a Pudding Lane EC3R 8AB<br />

Get everything you need for<br />

your <strong>Christmas</strong> Day Roast at<br />

Thompsons of Smithfield<br />

We supply a range of turkeys at<br />

unbeatable prices, as well as honey<br />

roast ham, pigs in blankets, smoked<br />

salmon, sausage stuffing, cheese, plus<br />

much more...<br />

Come down to our shop in Smithfield<br />

Market between 2am-9:30am<br />

Monday – Friday,<br />

to get all you need for your<br />

Festive Feast!

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