2015 Winery of the Year
Wayfarer Vineyards Cleo Pahlmeyer and Bibiana Gonzalez Rave
Wayfarer Vineyards Cleo Pahlmeyer and Bibiana Gonzalez Rave
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Proprietor Cleo Pahlmeyer and Winemaker Bibiana González Rave
<strong>Winery</strong> Of The <strong>Year</strong> | <strong>2015</strong><br />
Every year, <strong>the</strong>re is a story, brand, wine or winemaker that makes an indelible impression on me. Sometimes all <strong>of</strong> those factors converge at<br />
<strong>the</strong> high end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> scale reaching <strong>the</strong> pinnacle worthy <strong>of</strong> reflection and sharing. That happened last year when Tom Garrett showed me<br />
<strong>the</strong> first trio <strong>of</strong> releases <strong>of</strong> Detert Cabernet Franc East Block from Oakville, California. Those wines tasted in early December were<br />
outstanding and represented some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most fabled vines in Napa Valley planted in <strong>the</strong> 1970s. The patience and dedication required to<br />
arrive at that point reflected three generations working toward a goal that was not achievable after a mere 10, 20, or even 30 years. It was<br />
clearly <strong>the</strong> most significant launch <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year and well deserving <strong>of</strong> being named my <strong>Winery</strong> Of The <strong>Year</strong> 2014.<br />
<strong>2015</strong> | Setting <strong>the</strong> Stage | Wayfarer Vineyard Tasting with Bibiana González Rave<br />
In late February <strong>of</strong> this year, I was putting <strong>the</strong> finishing touches on <strong>the</strong> North Coast issue <strong>of</strong> pdwr and had pretty much shut down tasting so<br />
that I could begin <strong>the</strong> task <strong>of</strong> compiling and writing. It was about that time I received an email inviting me to taste <strong>the</strong> unreleased 2013<br />
vintage <strong>of</strong> Cleo Pahlmeyer’s Wayfarer Vineyard from <strong>the</strong> Fort Ross-Seaview AVA, with <strong>the</strong> winemaker, Bibiana González Rave. The<br />
caveat about <strong>the</strong> invitation was along <strong>the</strong> lines “Bibiana and her husband are expecting a baby so <strong>the</strong> timing is critical.” I had developed an<br />
appreciation for her earlier work at Lynmar, and tasted <strong>the</strong> premiere release <strong>of</strong> Wayfarer last year at a trade event without reviewing and<br />
filed it away in my head to investigate in <strong>the</strong> future. It was one <strong>of</strong> those judgment calls that I easily talked myself in to. I cleared a spot on<br />
my calendar and made it happen. What ensued was <strong>the</strong> most memorable tastings <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year; culminating with <strong>the</strong> 2013 Wayfarer wines.<br />
Bibiana was gracious with her time; ebulliently passionate about <strong>the</strong> wines she produces and possessed <strong>the</strong> boundless energy <strong>of</strong> a coiled<br />
spring, even more impressive when I learned her due date was in <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> following week.<br />
Historical Perspective<br />
When I entered <strong>the</strong> wine business in 1990, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first bottles I recall was Pahlmeyer Red Wine. Founder, Jayson Pahlmeyer took an<br />
uncompromising approach to developing <strong>the</strong> identity <strong>of</strong> his brand, smuggling in bud wood from France and getting Randy Dunn to make<br />
his first wine in exchange for selling him fruit. The latter was considered one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major accomplishments <strong>of</strong> its time, as Dunn made only<br />
his own wine. If you were a serious collector, or aspiring to be one, this red label Bordeaux Blend was on your dance card. It was an outlier<br />
in a burgeoning world <strong>of</strong> varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, and along with Dominus, Opus One and Phelps Insignia, <strong>the</strong>y served to illustrate<br />
<strong>the</strong> virtues <strong>of</strong> building wines on <strong>the</strong> model <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> First Growth Bordeaux blending up to five varieties. O<strong>the</strong>r wines followed – <strong>the</strong> dark blue<br />
labeled Merlot was <strong>the</strong> first wine I ever signed up to acquire by mailing list, so I guess I have been an admirer <strong>of</strong> what <strong>the</strong>y were doing for a<br />
long time.<br />
Why Wayfarer matters – The list you want to be on<br />
The late nineties saw increased interest in <strong>the</strong> new frontier <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> true Sonoma Coast, closer to <strong>the</strong> Pacific Ocean than anyone had ever<br />
considered until <strong>the</strong> early adopters begin showing results. Jayson Pahlmeyer was introduced to <strong>the</strong> unplanted property now Wayfarer, in<br />
1998 by Helen Turley, his former winemaker who has her own property, Marcassin, not far away, and bought it on her recommendation.<br />
A decade after a 2002 planting, Pahlmeyer made two important decisions: He deemed <strong>the</strong> vineyard was established enough to let it stand as<br />
its own brand and gave up <strong>the</strong> reins to develop and run <strong>the</strong> project to his daughter, Cleo. The David Abreu-planted site is comprised <strong>of</strong><br />
thirty 1-acre blocks <strong>of</strong> Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Bibiana is Consulting Winemaker and also Vineyard Manager for Wayfarer. A native<br />
<strong>of</strong> Colombia, she earned her degree in Enology at University <strong>of</strong> Bordeaux and worked harvests in Bordeaux, at Ch. Haut-Brion, and<br />
Burgundy where she realized to be truly successful as a winemaker, one needed to also have intimate understanding <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day-to-day<br />
management in <strong>the</strong> vineyard. As vigneronne, complete control in <strong>the</strong> vineyard and winery allows her to fine tune every aspect towards <strong>the</strong><br />
ultimate goal. The mere fact that she is reaching this level <strong>of</strong> quality in only <strong>the</strong> second vintage shows that Pahlmeyer is looking toward <strong>the</strong><br />
future and making a bold statement with benchmark wines.<br />
About <strong>the</strong> Images<br />
From <strong>the</strong> beginning <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> magazine four years ago, I was responsible for every image appearing within <strong>the</strong> covers as I wanted <strong>the</strong> ultimate<br />
control over all art and editorial. I receive a lot <strong>of</strong> compliments on <strong>the</strong> images, but it is always hard for me to accept <strong>the</strong>y are as good as <strong>the</strong>y<br />
could be. Several years ago, I sought out a former Vinfolio colleague, Michael Housewright who was developing creative skills with iPhone<br />
photography. Spending a day toge<strong>the</strong>r in a one-on-one shooting session with him has made me a better photographer with <strong>the</strong> iPhone but<br />
his work is clearly in ano<strong>the</strong>r realm and brings life and vitality to <strong>the</strong> subject that must be seen to fully appreciate. When I asked Michael in<br />
October to shoot <strong>the</strong> Wayfarer WOTY project for me, I allowed him free rein to capture what moved him to lift his camera. I knew he<br />
would draw on his 20 years <strong>of</strong> wine experience to get <strong>the</strong> shots that mattered. I’m thrilled to share his work with you. The images here<br />
represent only a small portion <strong>of</strong> his day at Wayfarer, shooting with Bibiana and Fermin Manzo, Vineyard Supervisor, and later with Cleo<br />
and Bibiana. Look for more <strong>of</strong> his work here on a continuing basis.<br />
Wishing you all <strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> holiday season.<br />
doug wilder | founder and publisher | purely domestic wine report<br />
Michael’s images are featured in Wine Enthusiast Magazine, purely domestic wine report, and he is now represented in Alamy Stock<br />
photography http://www.alamy.com/category/michael-housewright.html Immediately after completing <strong>the</strong> images for this project, he left for Armagnac to<br />
begin a new project about <strong>the</strong> people and villages that produce <strong>the</strong> world’s greatest beverages. The show will launch in 2016 and is titled “Drinking on <strong>the</strong><br />
Job” He continues to work with outstanding producers in California wine country to upgrade <strong>the</strong>ir images, create cinema quality video, and exceptional<br />
storytelling on <strong>the</strong>ir websites. All images are © Michael Housewright. Reproduction without permission is prohibited.<br />
<strong>Winery</strong> Of The <strong>Year</strong> <strong>2015</strong> | Wayfarer Vineyard | www.pdwr.co
2013 CHARDONNAY, WAYFARER VINEYARD FORT ROSS-SEAVIEW 14.5% 820 cs $85 98<br />
2013 PINOT NOIR GOLDEN MEAN FORT ROSS-SEAVIEW 14.5% 550 cs $115 94<br />
2013 PINOT NOIR MOTHER ROCK FORT ROSS-SEAVIEW 14.3% 340 cs $115 95<br />
2013 PINOT NOIR PAIGE’S RIDGE FORT ROSS-SEAVIEW 14.6% 110 cs $115 95<br />
2013 PINOT NOIR THE TRAVELER FORT ROSS-SEAVIEW 14.3% 130 cs $150 96<br />
2013 PINOT NOIR, WAYFARER VINEYARD FORT ROSS-SEAVIEW 14.5% 1300 cs $90 92<br />
Proprietor, Jayson Pahlmeyer had David Abreu plant his Wayfarer Estate Vineyard to thirty 1-acre blocks in 2002 after<br />
purchasing <strong>the</strong> property on <strong>the</strong> recommendation <strong>of</strong> Helen Turley, and began blending <strong>the</strong> fruit into his Pahlmeyer Sonoma<br />
Coast bottling in 2005. Not until 2012 did he deem it was ready to stand on its own as Wayfarer. From <strong>the</strong> superbly talented<br />
winemaker Bibiana González Rave <strong>the</strong> current vintage is full <strong>of</strong> excellent to extraordinary wines. 2013 CHARDONNAY is a<br />
selection <strong>of</strong> Old Wente clone seeing only 60% new French oak, The nose is a gauze <strong>of</strong> citrus, pulverized granite, conifer,<br />
pineapple, honey, salt, lush buttercream and piecrust. The palate shows incredible structure and focus to <strong>the</strong> fea<strong>the</strong>r-light<br />
vibrant peach, pear. A masterpiece. Drink <strong>2015</strong> – 2023. 2013 PINOT NOIR GOLDEN MEAN is 35% whole cluster and<br />
comprised <strong>of</strong> 75% Pommard, and 25% Swan clone. The nose is mint, ripe cherry, plum, chocolate powder, graphite and golden<br />
stone fruit skin. The palate is firm and lively on entry with a core <strong>of</strong> beautifully delineated structure <strong>of</strong> cherry, raspberry and<br />
acidity. The finish lasts a full two minutes. Drink <strong>2015</strong> – 2023. 2013 PINOT NOIR MOTHER ROCK is most helped by<br />
decanting at this stage. The nose is initially closed, later showing firm cherry, raspberry and rhubarb. The palate is vibrant black<br />
raspberry with notes <strong>of</strong> petrichor and supple velvet-like tannins, finishing with violet and cherry. Drink <strong>2015</strong> – 2023. 2013<br />
PINOT NOIR PAIGE’S RIDGE The nose is gorgeously deep and complex showing licorice, blackberry, cherry, mint, red<br />
apple and rhubarb. The palate entry shows polished flavors <strong>of</strong> apple, cherry and spice with plenty <strong>of</strong> vitality and structure. Fall<br />
<strong>2015</strong> release. Drink 2017 – 2024. 2013 PINOT NOIR THE TRAVELER is a suitcase clone from Burgundy and has a nose <strong>of</strong><br />
dusty violet sachet, loam, cherry, graphite, and notes <strong>of</strong> sweet white peach. The palate is firm and fresh with beautiful texture<br />
and lightness with outstanding layering and balance. One more thing: This bottle sat uncorked in my <strong>of</strong>fice for two weeks after tasting<br />
with Bibiana waiting recycling. I put my nose over <strong>the</strong> neck and was surprised how fresh it was. Pouring it into a glass and drinking it was<br />
indistinguishable from Day 1. 2013 PINOT NOIR is lushly put toge<strong>the</strong>r with aromas <strong>of</strong> cocoa, cherry, graphite with whiffs <strong>of</strong><br />
orange peel, spice, cola and hints <strong>of</strong> rum. The palate is a supple, berry-focused assemblage <strong>of</strong> each clone in <strong>the</strong> estate,<br />
harmoniously focused through its silky finish. Drink 2016 – 2023. Tasted March 14, <strong>2015</strong> Santa Rosa, CA<br />
<strong>Winery</strong> Of The <strong>Year</strong> <strong>2015</strong> | Wayfarer Vineyard | www.pdwr.co
<strong>Winery</strong> Of The <strong>Year</strong> <strong>2015</strong> | Wayfarer Vineyard | www.pdwr.co
Previous Page T: Bibiana González Rave and Cleo Pahlmeyer | Santa Rosa, CA | B: Bibiana González Rave and Fermin Manzo | Wayfarer Vineyard<br />
This Page T: Bibiana Gonzáez Rave | Wayfarer Vineyard, Sunrise | B: Fermin Manzo | Wayfarer Vineyard<br />
Back Cover: Bibiana González Rave | Wayfarer Vineyard | All images © Michael Housewright |All o<strong>the</strong>r content and reviews © pdwr.co |<strong>2015</strong><br />
<strong>Winery</strong> Of The <strong>Year</strong> <strong>2015</strong> | Wayfarer Vineyard | www.pdwr.co
About Doug Wilder and purely domestic wine report<br />
It is a short story that began a long time ago. – I was born and raised in <strong>the</strong> San Francisco Bay region during <strong>the</strong> 1960’s, and<br />
as a kid, spent time during <strong>the</strong> summers in <strong>the</strong> cool, dark cellars <strong>of</strong> Napa and Sonoma wineries while on family picnic days<br />
and later learned my way around a wine list while engineering consulting in <strong>the</strong> 80s.<br />
During those day trips to <strong>the</strong> valley, my dad would fill his gallon jug right from <strong>the</strong> cask while my bro<strong>the</strong>r and I would play<br />
games around huge head-pruned vines and munched <strong>the</strong> grapes, probably Zinfandel. Then years later after a day <strong>of</strong> crawling<br />
around nuclear power plants <strong>the</strong>re was always something on <strong>the</strong> wine list for <strong>the</strong> expense account to absorb during my<br />
consulting career, but I always looked for <strong>the</strong> likes <strong>of</strong> Calera, Chalone, Heitz, Mondavi Reserve and Ridge primarily because<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> importance <strong>the</strong>y put on place. These experiences made an impression on me that would shape my future pursuits.<br />
In 1990, I decided that <strong>the</strong> first-class flights and o<strong>the</strong>r trappings <strong>of</strong> consulting didn’t make me happy anymore. I spent <strong>the</strong><br />
next 20 years nurturing a respected reputation in sales and purchasing at a succession <strong>of</strong> arguably some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />
influential wine companies <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir era. During this part <strong>of</strong> my wine career I developed a keen sense <strong>of</strong> what mattered and<br />
routinely tasted, acquired and recommended wines to my clients’ months before <strong>the</strong>y showed up elsewhere. Trusting my<br />
palate and writing about <strong>the</strong>se wines was a growing, significant part <strong>of</strong> that.<br />
After I left <strong>the</strong> retail environment, I continued writing independently but had not decided where I wanted to devote my<br />
energies. In early 2011, I decided to start looking more objectively at what existed in <strong>the</strong> world <strong>of</strong> wine review, fashioned<br />
on a grid representing coverage. What I found surprised me – Even though I knew <strong>the</strong> major magazines covered <strong>the</strong> globe, I<br />
was reminded <strong>of</strong> how much <strong>the</strong>y actually missed while on <strong>the</strong>ir annual trips mostly visiting <strong>the</strong> same places and ignoring <strong>the</strong><br />
emerging talent. And at <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r end, recently launched independent newsletters tended to concentrate on one variety,<br />
Pinot Noir. Nobody was looking at <strong>the</strong> entirety <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> western coast <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> United States with any dedication. I decided <strong>the</strong><br />
time was right to create something new and different that would stand apart from <strong>the</strong> status quo, and purely domestic wine<br />
report was born, with a focus to review wines from California, Oregon and Washington all tasted and written about by <strong>the</strong><br />
same critic in a magazine without advertising.<br />
Purely domestic wine report just completed its fourth year recognizing Wayfarer Vineyard as its <strong>Winery</strong> Of The <strong>Year</strong>. For<br />
examples <strong>of</strong> some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r wines reviewed in this issue I have included a page from volume 4.3 to <strong>the</strong> right.<br />
I do hope you enjoy it. Thank you.<br />
Doug Wilder | publisher | purely domestic wine report<br />
<strong>Winery</strong> Of The <strong>Year</strong> <strong>2015</strong> | Wayfarer Vineyard | www.pdwr.co
89 2012 Ma<strong>the</strong>w Bruno Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
Napa Valley, 14.4%, 744 cs., $100<br />
The nose is black currant, camphor, jasmine and blue fruit<br />
with notes <strong>of</strong> sandalwood. The palate is bright red cherry<br />
on entry, textured with elevated acidity accented by golden<br />
stone fruit. Very youthful wine. Drink 2016 – 2024.<br />
93 2012 Meteor Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon Perseid<br />
Coombsville, Estate, 14.6%, $125<br />
Dense aromatics <strong>of</strong> chocolate, spice, clove, c<strong>of</strong>fee bean and<br />
firm red fruits. The palate is coated with a lushly textured<br />
blackberry and spice box. The core is solid and well<br />
formed, nothing out <strong>of</strong> balance. The finish is a warm<br />
polished black fruit accompanied by velvet-like acidity.<br />
Drink <strong>2015</strong> – 2030.<br />
94+ 2012 Meteor Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon Special Family Reserve<br />
Coombsville, Estate, 14.6%, $275<br />
The nose is pr<strong>of</strong>oundly unique with exotic floral and spice.<br />
Bittersweet chocolate, menthol and currant. The palate is<br />
classic and centered, gorgeously poised with copious fresh<br />
vitality. Fruit, spice, and tannins are in proportion, nice<br />
length imbued with chocolate and blackberry. Drink 2017 –<br />
2030.<br />
95 2013 Meteor Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon Perseid [Summer 2016]<br />
Coombsville, Estate, 14.4%, $125<br />
The nose is fresh lilac blossom, sea salt, and blueberry,<br />
plum and bright cranberry. The palate is a beautiful<br />
impression <strong>of</strong> poise and precise balance <strong>of</strong> tannins and fruit.<br />
It is hard to want any more out <strong>of</strong> a wine not on <strong>the</strong><br />
market for 8 months, structure, vitality and depth. Drink<br />
2017 – 2035.<br />
96+ 2013 Meteor Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon Special Family Reserve [Spring 2017]<br />
Coombsville, Estate, 14.4%, $275<br />
The nose is very dense plum, aromatic blossoms, brown<br />
spice and menthol. The palate is gorgeous in its polished<br />
entry. Cherry, currant, camphor and nicely balanced oak in<br />
<strong>the</strong> core. I am very impressed with this <strong>of</strong>fering a full 18<br />
months ahead <strong>of</strong> release. Don’t miss it. Drink 2018 – 2030.<br />
95 2012 Morlet Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
St. Helena, Estate, 15%, 275 cs., $275<br />
A beautiful nose with essences <strong>of</strong> olive, meat, purple herbs<br />
with a buttery core along with black tea and boysenberry<br />
firmness. The palate is powerful and precise on entry with a<br />
core <strong>of</strong> densely layered black fruit, tar, licorice and plum<br />
with beautifully integrated tannins. Drink 2016 – 2035.<br />
95 2013 Morlet Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
Passionnément<br />
Oakville, 15%, 300 cs., $250<br />
The nose has a lush edge <strong>of</strong> ripe black cherry, graphite,<br />
Asian spice, plum and black raspberry. The palate entry<br />
shows <strong>the</strong> firm/supple dynamic <strong>of</strong> this producer. Dense<br />
velvet like chocolate, violet and camphor. Very impressive<br />
at this point. Drink 2017 – 2035.<br />
94 2013 Morlet Red Wine Coeur de Vallee<br />
Oakville, 15%, 350 cs., 75CS|25CF, $175<br />
A nose <strong>of</strong> cocoa powder, raspberry, licorice and cassis with<br />
a briary undercurrent. The palate shows a broad entry with<br />
subtle powdery blue fruit vitality, mint, with traces <strong>of</strong><br />
currant and sweet, sticky plum.<br />
97 2013 Morlet Red Wine Mon Chevalier<br />
Knights Valley, 15% 850 cs., 86CS|8CF|2MR|2MB|2PV,<br />
$175<br />
The nose is beautifully poised licorice, olive tapenade,<br />
carbonized meat, violet, cinnamon, t<strong>of</strong>fee and cocoa. The<br />
palate is exceptionally engaging, precisely formed and<br />
layered with finesse. Shows excellent structure with violet<br />
and licorice, saturated black fruits. Stunning stuff. Drink<br />
2016 – 2035.<br />
94 2013 Morlet Cabernet Franc Force de la<br />
Nature<br />
Oakville, 15.5%, 175 cs., $250<br />
The nose is perfumed with a sweet musk <strong>of</strong> spice box,<br />
clove, orange zest, blueberry, linseed, blackberry and<br />
chocolate. The palate is dense and focused with chocolate,<br />
clove, licorice and bright essences <strong>of</strong> florals. Drink 2017 -<br />
2030.<br />
<strong>Winery</strong> Of The <strong>Year</strong> <strong>2015</strong> | Wayfarer Vineyard | www.pdwr.co
<strong>Winery</strong> Of The <strong>Year</strong> <strong>2015</strong> | Wayfarer Vineyard | www.pdwr.co