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about scad<br />

The Savannah College of Art and Design is a private,<br />

nonprofit, accredited institution conferring bachelor’s and<br />

master’s degrees at distinctive locations to prepare talented<br />

students for professional careers. SCAD offers degrees in<br />

more than 40 majors, as well as minors in more than 60 disciplines.<br />

With 32,000 alumni worldwide, SCAD demonstrates<br />

an exceptional education and unparalleled career preparation.<br />

At locations in Savannah and Atlanta, Georgia; in Hong<br />

Kong; in Lacoste, France; and online through SCAD<br />

eLearning, the diverse student body consists of more than<br />

12,000 students, from across the United States and over<br />

100 countries. SCAD’s innovative curriculum is enhanced<br />

by advanced, professional-level technology, equipment and<br />

learning resources. Curricular collaborations with companies<br />

and organizations including Google and the National Council<br />

of Architectural Registration Boards (NCARB) affirm the<br />

professional currency SCAD champions in its programs.<br />

The university, students, faculty and alumni have garnered<br />

acclaim from respected organizations and publications<br />

worldwide including four consecutive years of No. 1 rankings<br />

for the undergraduate interior design program by DesignIntelligence,<br />

recognition as one of the 2014 Red Dot Design<br />

Rankings’ top 10 universities in the Americas and Europe, and<br />

the No. 1 graduate fashion program in the U.S. as determined<br />

by London-based Business of Fashion. For more information,<br />

visit the official SCAD blog.<br />

Photo courtesy of SCAD FASH.<br />

1


SCAD FASH celebrates fashion as a universal language, garments as important conduits<br />

of identity, and film as an immersive and memorable medium. Situated within the SCAD<br />

Atlanta campus at 1600 Peachtree St., SCAD FASH focuses on the future of fashion design,<br />

connecting conceptual to historical principles of dress — whether ceremonial, celebratory or<br />

casual — and welcomes visitors of all ages to engage with dynamic exhibitions, captivating<br />

films and educationally enriching events.<br />

Fortified by the university’s strong global presence and<br />

worldwide connections to renowned contemporary fashion<br />

designers, filmmakers and creative professionals all over<br />

the world, SCAD FASH is an integral part of the SCAD<br />

educational experience.<br />

Like the award-winning SCAD Museum of Art, SCAD FASH<br />

serves as a teaching museum and creative resource for students<br />

of all ages and a wellspring of inspiration for visitors. Through<br />

programming that engages the university’s broad array of<br />

academic disciplines — encompassing more than 40 majors<br />

and 60 minors — SCAD FASH offers a diverse, year-round<br />

program of exhibitions, films, installations, performances and<br />

events to enliven and inspire SCAD students and the greater<br />

community. Every program is designed to engage and appeal<br />

to visitors with varied backgrounds and interests, from textiles<br />

and jewelry to photography and film.<br />

Within nearly 10,000 square feet of elegant and adaptable<br />

exhibition space, SCAD FASH brings a dynamic and distinct<br />

schedule of fashion-focused exhibitions and compelling films<br />

to the heart of Midtown Atlanta. Beyond its extensive gallery<br />

space, SCAD FASH includes a fashion resource room for the<br />

presentation of techniques and materials, a state-of-the-art<br />

media lounge for educational film and digital presentations,<br />

collections storage, and a new grand entrance and lobby. An<br />

additional 27,000 square feet of academic and studio space<br />

also surrounds the perimeter of the museum, providing<br />

students immediate access to the museum and its resources.<br />

Throughout the year at each of its locations around the world,<br />

SCAD hosts a spectacular lineup of thought-provoking,<br />

sparkling, star-studded events that place art and design<br />

education front and center. SCAD FASH promotes valuable<br />

career-building connections and continues this rich tradition<br />

by affording students and professors across all disciplines the<br />

opportunity to celebrate works of wearable art and remarkable<br />

filmmaking, and to interact with the renowned and emerging<br />

creative professionals who create them.<br />

2


contents<br />

the designers<br />

Oscar De La Renta<br />

page eight<br />

Carolina Herrera<br />

page fourteen<br />

the photographers<br />

Bill Cunningham<br />

page twenty eight<br />

Jonathan Becker<br />

page thirty eight<br />

Leadership<br />

page forty four<br />

Visit<br />

page forty six<br />

Membership<br />

page forty eight<br />

Oscar De La Renta gown designed for Oprah Winfrey to wear at the Met Gala, 2010.<br />

Photo courtesy of Getty Dimitrios Kambouris/filmmagic, SCAD.


Backstage at Oscar De La Renta Winter 2015 Show.<br />

Photo courtesy of Harper's Bazaar.<br />

4


THE<br />

designers<br />

5


OSCAR DE LA RENTA<br />

6


CAROLINA HERRERA<br />

SCAD FASH presented “Oscar de la Renta,” the inaugural<br />

exhibition at the Savannah College of Art and Design’s<br />

new museum of fashion. “Oscar de la Renta” celebrates the<br />

illustrious life and designs of the storied couturier whose<br />

work set the standard for timeless elegance, and it also<br />

introduces the work of Peter Copping, the talented designer<br />

personally selected by de la Renta to lead the iconic brand<br />

into the future.<br />

The SCAD FASH Museum of Fashion + Film and the<br />

SCAD Museum of Art present “Refined Irreverence,” a<br />

dual exhibition celebrating Carolina Herrera and the 35th<br />

anniversary of the House of Herrera. The exhibition marks<br />

the first museum showing of Herrera’s work. Featuring new<br />

and vintage designs from Herrera’s 1981 inaugural collection<br />

to the present, “Refined Irreverence” includes more than 75<br />

garments showcasing the designer’s modern, dynamic classics.<br />

Oscar De La Renta Spring/Summer 2013 Show. Photo courtesy of Harper's 7 Bazaar.<br />

Carolina Herrera Spring 2016 Show. Photo courtesy of Harper's Bazaar.


Photo courtesy of Fashion Sizzle.<br />

8


OSCAR<br />

DE LA<br />

RENTA<br />

THE LAVISH LEGACY LIVES ON<br />

9


DE LA RENTA<br />

“Oscar de la Renta,” the inaugural<br />

SCAD FASH exhibition, celebrated the<br />

illustrious life and designs of the storied<br />

couturier whose work set the standard<br />

for timeless elegance. The momentous<br />

exhibition featured more than 60<br />

garments, including those designed for<br />

Hollywood A-listers Oprah Winfrey,<br />

Nicole Kidman and Taylor Swift, as well<br />

as former first lady Laura Bush. “Oscar<br />

de la Renta” also introduced the work<br />

of Peter Copping, the talented designer<br />

personally selected by de la Renta to<br />

lead the iconic brand into the future.<br />

Additionally, “Ovation for Oscar,” a<br />

short documentary created by SCAD<br />

alumni and students that premiered at<br />

the Cannes Film Festival earlier this<br />

year, was part of the exhibition.<br />

Photo courtesy of SCAD FASH.<br />

10


Photo courtesy of Fashion Sizzle.<br />

“THE 21ST CENTURY IS THE CENTURY OF THE WOMAN,”<br />

said Oscar de la Renta in 2010. You can see this declaration<br />

manifested throughout his work, and throughout his current<br />

retrospective at the de Young Museum in San Francisco. His<br />

designs, known for their boldness, femininity and opulence,<br />

require a woman to be comfortable taking center stage,<br />

whether it’s in a full floral ballgown, vibrant kaftan or an<br />

embellished tunic.<br />

It’s no surprise then that powerful women from the realms of<br />

both politics and pop culture have continuously been loyal<br />

clients of the designer throughout his career, from presidential<br />

candidate Hillary Clinton to pop star Taylor Swift. At the<br />

end of the day, women — and how they felt in his clothes —<br />

were always what drove his vision.<br />

“I believe that my sole purpose as a designer is to create<br />

something that I think a woman would want to wear,” said de<br />

la Renta in 1972.<br />

Although there are more than 120 ensembles produced<br />

over five decades on display, every piece seems to make<br />

one unifying assertion: “Look at me.” His work embraces a<br />

singular expression of womanhood, reveling in its aspects of<br />

adornment, attention and drama. If all the world’s a stage, de<br />

la Renta’s clothes are what you’d want to be wearing for your<br />

moment in the spotlight.<br />

While the retrospective highlights his global influences, from<br />

East to West, it also conveys his overarching American attitude<br />

toward change. The Dominican Republic-born designer<br />

refined his craft in Paris but left for this reason: “I’d come<br />

to New York because I believed the future of fashion was in<br />

ready-to-wear.”<br />

“Over the course of his career, he mixed an incredible<br />

sensibility of ready-to-wear and haute couture, creating demi<br />

couture, an amazing synthesis of both,” Richard Benefield,<br />

the de Young’s Acting Director and Exhibition Organizer,<br />

11


DE LA RENTA<br />

“<br />

I believe that my sole<br />

purpose as a designer<br />

is to create something<br />

that I think a woman<br />

would want to wear.”<br />

−OSCAR DE LA RENTA<br />

explained to The Huffington Post. “Oscar could do it all —<br />

whatever was the most fashionable at the moment, he’d do it<br />

with his distinctive flair and eye for aesthetics.”<br />

Like a story out of a fashion fairy tale, on his very first night in<br />

Manhattan, de la Renta met cosmetics mogul Elizabeth Arden,<br />

who offered him a job the following morning designing<br />

haute couture gowns for her design house. Two years later, he<br />

started his own collection bearing his name.<br />

His legendary status doesn’t end there — in fact, it was just<br />

building. In 1973, he represented the United States as one of<br />

five designers at the notorious “Battle of Versailles” fashion<br />

show, a competition between French and American designers.<br />

De la Renta and the other Americans were a sensation, challenging<br />

old-world European haute couture with their readyto-wear<br />

designs.<br />

clothes during that time reflected American might and confidence.<br />

“In the eighties, it was back into rich, opulent clothes,<br />

which were my thing,” he’s said.<br />

After the 1980s, the designer was always forward-thinking<br />

though, especially when it came to looking to diverse cultures<br />

for inspiration, including Chinese embroideries, Indian<br />

textiles, Uzbek and Kazakh ikat-patterned cloths, Japanese<br />

woodblock prints,and traditional Russian fabrics and ornamentation.<br />

“Today, people — clothes — are international.<br />

Frontiers are non-existent,” de la Renta says.<br />

His sentiments, like his clothes, feel eternally modern yet<br />

timeless. “Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective” presents the<br />

life and legacy of a man who loved life and encourages you<br />

to celebrate it, too. With the show’s lush exuberance, it’s an<br />

invitation that’s hard to resist.<br />

With a career-long retrospective, it’s easy to see that the 1980s<br />

were the designer’s spiritual and aesthetic home. His bold<br />

ARTICLE BY TRICIA TONGCO<br />

12


DE LA RENTA<br />

Photo courtesy of The Huffington Post.<br />

Amal Alamuddin at her final fitting with Oscar de la Renta, 2014. Photo courtesy of ABCNews.<br />

13


CAROLINA<br />

HERRERA’S<br />

14


quiet path to power<br />

The SCAD FASH Museum of Fashion<br />

+ Film and the SCAD Museum of Art<br />

present “Refined Irreverence,” a dual<br />

exhibition celebrating Carolina Herrera<br />

and the 35th anniversary of the House<br />

of Herrera. The exhibition marks<br />

the first museum showing of Herrera’s<br />

work. Featuring new and vintage<br />

designs from Herrera’s 1981 inaugural<br />

collection to the present, “Refined<br />

Irreverence” includes more than 75<br />

garments showcasing the designer’s<br />

modern, dynamic classics.<br />

Since launching her first collection in<br />

1981 at the behest of legendary Vogue<br />

editor Diana Vreeland, Venezuelan-born<br />

Herrera has become synonymous<br />

with effortless elegance and modern<br />

refinement. “I have a responsibility to<br />

the woman of today — to make her<br />

feel confident, modern and above all<br />

else beautiful,” Herrera said. Curated<br />

by Rafael Gomes, SCAD director of<br />

fashion exhibitions, “Refined Irreverence”<br />

includes runway looks, day wear,<br />

and bridal and red-carpet gowns worn<br />

by Michelle Obama, Taylor Swift, Lady<br />

Gaga, Tina Fey, Renée Zellweger and<br />

Lucy Liu, as well as ensembles from<br />

Herrera’s personal collection.<br />

15<br />

Carolina Herrera Spring/Summer 2016 Show, Carolina Herrera.<br />

Photo courtesy of Harper's Bazaar.


HERRERA<br />

HERRERA was drawn to the museum’s imposing beauty that goes against the grain of the ultracool, frenzied, downtown<br />

venue approach to shows that dominates the New York calendar. But if the Garden Court weren’t easy to enter<br />

and exit, she would have passed. “I don’t like elevators, all right?” Herrera says. “Everybody asked why did I stay at<br />

Lincoln Center [so long]? Because it’s convenient, people arrive and go directly to the show. Because it’s not fair with all of you<br />

going to the shows to be [delayed] at an elevator to go and sit for an hour and then run to another elevator.”<br />

When she had to depart Lincoln Center, Herrera mulled<br />

possibilities that would resonate as interesting yet keep the<br />

focus on the clothes. The Frick, long one of her favorite New<br />

York haunts, came to mind. “It’s not a huge spectacle. It’s a<br />

beautiful place and you don’t have to do a lot of [set] decorations<br />

or anything because everything is there. So that’s the<br />

way, that’s why we ended up there.”<br />

The lady is a pragmatist, a distinction worn with genuine<br />

patrician glamour. And she is a survivor. Along with Ralph<br />

Lauren, Herrera alone remains as a founding presence of the<br />

generation of designers that put American designer fashion<br />

on the map. Yet unlike Lauren, she is a royalty-collecting<br />

employee at the huge company — some would say surprisingly<br />

huge — that bears her name. Barcelona-based Puig<br />

launched Herrera’s first fragrance in 1988 and bought the<br />

company outright in 1995. In 2012, the last time for which the<br />

firm has released figures, Puig put 2011 consolidated global<br />

retail sales for Herrera’s fragrance and fashion at $1.3 billion.<br />

In this age of the designer carousel, the Herrera-Puig relationship<br />

presents as a rare ideal. “Puig is a family business.<br />

That gives you confidence,” Herrera says. “We understand<br />

each other very well. They’re very respectful of what I do,<br />

I’m in the creative side of this company. I’m not the business<br />

side. You ask me what is my business, I don’t have the slightest<br />

idea.”On that point, Herrera indulges in a false modesty.<br />

Running the business side falls to chief executive officer<br />

Carolina Herrera Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-to-Wear Collection.<br />

Photo courtesy of The Style of the Case: Fashion Law.<br />

16


Carolina Herrera Spring 2015 Show.<br />

Photo courtesy of Harper's Bazaar.<br />

17


HERRERA<br />

“<br />

Fashion must be for<br />

today... You have to<br />

be run by your idea<br />

of what you want to<br />

show... design with<br />

your eyes open.”<br />

−CAROLINA HERRERA<br />

François Kress, who joined the firm last March after a tenure<br />

as global president of Stuart Weitzman LLC, and prior stints<br />

at The Row, Prada and LVMH. But Herrera understands one<br />

of its most essential commandments: Know thyself.<br />

The designer’s aesthetic has hardly remained static, evolving<br />

through the years from early flamboyance to a more measured<br />

take on decorative chic. Yet she has resisted the temptation to<br />

veer too dramatically from her elegant, adult perspective in<br />

pursuit of the elusive, some would say imaginary, young client<br />

that so many houses seek, often alienating their core constituencies<br />

in the process. As she approaches her brand’s 35th anniversary,<br />

a mark about which she’s not particularly emotional<br />

(she doesn’t like anniversaries and birthdays), a consistency<br />

of vision marks her work. “I don’t change the style of the<br />

company every six months,” Herrera says. “I think it’s the<br />

saddest thing when you see a fashion company that has been<br />

around for years and they try to be very young and change and<br />

do things they never did [before], trying to attract younger<br />

people. You have to do the right things for the [company]. It’s<br />

sad when you see” a company known for a more discreet take<br />

on fashion, suddenly go “very tight and cool and black leather<br />

like Saint Laurent.<br />

“Fashion must be for today,” she continues. “That doesn’t<br />

mean I’m going to go to an extreme, with black leather<br />

leggings, or all naked. You cannot be naked. You cannot be<br />

run by the red carpet. You cannot be run by Instagram. You<br />

have to be run by your idea of what you want to show…design<br />

with your eyes open. Make it contemporary but don’t confuse<br />

people.”Herrera’s spring collection, one of her loveliest ever,<br />

speaks to that position. A study in sophisticated delicacy, she<br />

worked airy pink fabrics with varying degrees of transparency,<br />

her goal a lineup that was “a little nude but not obvious,” that<br />

would play to the romanticism of the space, “like a fantasy. It<br />

had to move, it had to be light, it had to be like butterflies. I<br />

was very happy with it.”<br />

Recently, she has been very taken with techno foam fabrics,<br />

integrating them seamlessly into her elegant vision. Versions<br />

with various 3-D floral motifs will play prominently in her<br />

fall collection. One features graphic, raised embroideries of<br />

jasmine, Herrera’s favorite flower, its scent a note in her first<br />

fragrance. “I’m always investigating the new techniques to use<br />

in a feminine way, and making women look beautiful for now,<br />

for today. That is my job.”<br />

Fabrics aren’t the only way in which Herrera is embracing<br />

technology. Her upcoming show will be live-streamed with a<br />

360-degree feed on the brand’s Web site, and the company is<br />

growing its social media presence, primarily on Instagram.<br />

As for overall growth, patience has long driven the strategy,<br />

one proven savvy over time, the company’s overall sales<br />

ballooning almost under the radar. The fragrance alone has<br />

more than 25,000 points of sale around the world, and the<br />

CH brand is broadly distributed across North America, Iberia<br />

and the Middle East, including 129 freestanding stores. By<br />

18


HERRERA<br />

comparison, the signature Carolina Herrera is small and<br />

focused on wholesale as opposed to a dense network of brand<br />

stores. It has only three, in New York, Dallas and Los Angeles.<br />

Under Kress’ stewardship, the push is on to grow that business<br />

significantly, with the primary focus on Europe and<br />

North America.<br />

Carolina Herrera Spring 2015 Show.<br />

Photo courtesy of The Fashion Foot.<br />

“You have to analyze everything and have perseverance,”<br />

Herrera says. “Do you want to open stores in places where<br />

they don’t know you and you don’t know if things will sell, or<br />

are just going to open them because of your ego? The fashion<br />

world is a lot of egos. I don’t mind waiting. I want to do things<br />

right, when we are ready. This is the right time to have Carolina<br />

Herrera all over Europe.”<br />

At the same time, growth involves more intimate gestures<br />

as well, and the company is open to one-off or short-term<br />

collaborations. This week, a capsule exclusive to Jeffrey New<br />

York hit the selling floor; it features seven styles in graphic<br />

black-and-white dots that riff on the packaging of the brand’s<br />

first fragrance. A second such collaboration, with Mytheresa.<br />

com, is set for May. “They’re very focused; they know exactly<br />

what they need,” Herrera says. “It’s a joy to work with people<br />

like that.”<br />

Herrera took a gradual path to becoming a major fashion<br />

industry force. She grew up in a world of privilege in Caracas,<br />

one in which fashion was not viewed as particularly significant.<br />

Discipline defined the family ethos in which she and<br />

19


HERRERA<br />

her two sisters were raised. Though she soaked up knowledge<br />

subliminally while looking at her mother’s pretty clothes,<br />

Herrera’s conscious self was far more concerned with studying<br />

the pursuits of a well-bred young lady, both intellectual, such<br />

as art and history, and active — riding and tennis. For years,<br />

she quips, her tennis instructor was the most important person<br />

in her life. She also took cues from her governess, a refined<br />

Hungarian woman who taught her French and English. As<br />

a teenager, Herrera began to explore style as an interest and<br />

fodder for experimentation; she has often said that when she<br />

discovered American screen sirens, she wanted to be a vamp.<br />

All of that combined with good old-fashioned luck — she’s<br />

gorgeous — coalesced into Herrera’s signature glamour, worn<br />

with white-shirted control and impeccable carriage. And very<br />

naturally. Herrera seems, in every discernible way, devoid of<br />

artifice. As she and her second husband, Reinaldo Herrera,<br />

traveled, often to New York, they became regulars at haunts<br />

including Studio 54, and she, on the international society<br />

pages.<br />

“That was so much fun, New York in the Seventies,” she says.<br />

“You were mixed with a lot of creative people, talent, in the<br />

art world, in society, literature, in the movie business. Actors,<br />

actresses, musicians, they were all mixed. You used to go to<br />

dinners and find everybody together. It was fun. I loved it.”<br />

At some point during her enviable itinerant ways, Herrera<br />

decided she had something to offer women like herself in<br />

terms of fashion, chic women with tony lifestyles. She wanted<br />

to open a fashion house. Her friend Halston, who by then had<br />

experienced a series of woes, advised her otherwise. “What did<br />

you drink, are you mad? You can’t!” he admonished.<br />

Undeterred, Herrera forged on. Just past 40 and the mother<br />

of four daughters, she would forge an enviable life as a<br />

working woman, achieving what appears from the outside a<br />

near perfect work-life balance. In aggregate, her daughters<br />

Mercedes, Ana Luisa, Carolina and Patricia have made her<br />

a grandmother 12 times over (each has three children), and<br />

surely the most glamorous great-grandmother on Earth — a<br />

status about which Herrera makes no effort to hide. “Why<br />

should I?” she muses. “I don’t avoid it. I think every age has<br />

benefits and limitations. No? You should try to develop each<br />

one at the proper time.”<br />

About the time Herrera was mulling opening a business<br />

(counseled in the affirmative by none other than Diana<br />

Vreeland, a family friend), she attended a party. Someone<br />

pointed out Armando de Armas, the publishing magnate<br />

whose Miami-based portfolio included the Spanish language<br />

Harper’s Bazaar. A recent cover of the magazine had featured a<br />

paparazzi photo of Herrera. She went over to thank him, and<br />

before the conversation was over, he had offered to invest in<br />

her still nonexistent business. Herrera staged her first show at<br />

the Metropolitan Club for fall 1981, with a band playing Cole<br />

Porter. Steve Rubell was turned away at the door for want of a<br />

necktie; he returned and was welcomed after a quick Bergdorf<br />

Goodman run. All of the big stores — Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf’s,<br />

Saks Fifth Avenue — came and wrote orders.<br />

Despite the seeming worldliness of her operation, as a businessperson,<br />

Herrera was green. She recalls of her first trunk<br />

show that she didn’t grasp the lingo: “I didn’t know it was<br />

called a trunk show because you transported the clothes in a<br />

trunk.” She also had to turn down an offer of windows from<br />

the legendary Park Avenue retailer Martha. Before the Metropolitan<br />

show, Herrera had worked up a small collection “with<br />

20


“It is a great privilege to fête 35<br />

years of Herrera’s timeless elegance,<br />

and to engage SCAD students with<br />

a designer par excellence,” said Paula<br />

Wallace. “Her artistry reflects a<br />

refined sensibility that is at once<br />

classic and modern. Every woman<br />

who wears her designs feels exactly as<br />

Carolina intends: beautiful.”<br />

HERRERA<br />

Illustration used with permission of David Downton.<br />

21


HERRERA<br />

Carolina Herrera Ready To Wear, Fall/Winter 2015 Show.<br />

Photo courtesy of The Who and What.<br />

22


HERRERA<br />

my French couturier in Venezuela.” Vreeland suggested she<br />

take it to Martha, who offered windows. Herrera was about<br />

to jump when a friend pointed out that she couldn’t; she had<br />

not a piece to sell beyond the sample line. Still, she notes,<br />

“Martha, queen of fashion at the moment, wanted to put some<br />

dresses in the window. That was good.”<br />

So, too, was her partnership with De Armas, through which<br />

the business got established for real. They remained together<br />

until he decided he wanted out of fashion. Together they sold<br />

the company outright to Puig.<br />

Simpler times, despite the learning curve. Now, like just about<br />

everyone else in fashion, Herrera thinks the industry machine<br />

has spun wantonly out of control. Too many shows, too many<br />

seasons. “The client, the woman that buys,” Herrera muses,<br />

“do you think they want to buy so much? Do you think they<br />

need all that? Do you think they have time to think, ‘I need<br />

something special that I don’t have?’ Or is it just more, ‘OK,<br />

whatever?'”<br />

She’s open to the rapidly trending concept of consumer-timed<br />

shows — “it’s a good idea if we can again create some mystery”<br />

— but sees potential creative pratfalls in having to make<br />

production commitments in advance of the major-season<br />

shows. “It’s very complicated,” she says, while acknowledging<br />

it’s the way of today’s fashion world. “We have to accept it and<br />

work it out in a way that works for everyone, for us, designers,<br />

people who are the clients and for women who want to look<br />

beautiful.” Despite the industry upheaval, Herrera still loves<br />

her work, particularly working with her two youngest daughters.<br />

“It’s fabulous,” she offers. “First of all, they don’t lie. A<br />

lot of people are afraid to tell the truth.” Carolina works in<br />

fragrance from her base in Madrid; Patricia, in the design<br />

studio. “She’s like a thermometer,” Herrera maintains.<br />

As the company grows, fragrance remains in the forefront of<br />

the strategy. It brought Herrera together with Puig in the first<br />

place, and remains highly successful. “Every designer should<br />

have a scent,” Herrera says. “If it’s successful, it’s amazing. It<br />

helps with everything. You are everywhere in a little bottle<br />

that people buy.”<br />

Another area close to her heart: bridal. The category has<br />

plenty of challenges — MOBs at the top of the list. Having<br />

been on both sides of that coin — mother to four brides and<br />

designer to countless others — Herrera offers advice sprung<br />

from that innate pragmatism. She urges bridal customers<br />

to do their initial scouting on their own, unburdened of the<br />

opinions of moms and other well-intentioned potential irritants.<br />

Yet in the end, pragmatism takes a backseat to all of the<br />

emotion concentrated in the symbolism of a wedding gown,<br />

even to this most worldly professional. “I love bridal, always,”<br />

Herrera says. “You know why I love it? Because it’s full of<br />

hope and love.”<br />

ARTICLE BY BRIDGET FOLEY<br />

23


Photograph courtesy of Witold Riedel.<br />

24


HERRERA<br />

my French couturier in Venezuela.” Vreeland suggested she<br />

take it to Martha, who offered windows. Herrera was about<br />

to jump when a friend pointed out that she couldn’t; she had<br />

not a piece to sell beyond the sample line. Still, she notes,<br />

“Martha, queen of fashion at the moment, wanted to put some<br />

dresses in the window. That was good.”<br />

So, too, was her partnership with De Armas, through which<br />

the business got established for real. They remained together<br />

until he decided he wanted out of fashion. Together they sold<br />

the company outright to Puig.<br />

Simpler times, despite the learning curve. Now, like just about<br />

everyone else in fashion, Herrera thinks the industry machine<br />

has spun wantonly out of control. Too many shows, too many<br />

seasons. “The client, the woman that buys,” Herrera muses,<br />

“do you think they want to buy so much? Do you think they<br />

need all that? Do you think they have time to think, ‘I need<br />

something special that I don’t have?’ Or is it just more, ‘OK,<br />

whatever?'”<br />

She’s open to the rapidly trending concept of consumer-timed<br />

shows — “it’s a good idea if we can again create some mystery”<br />

— but sees potential creative pratfalls in having to make<br />

production commitments in advance of the major-season<br />

shows. “It’s very complicated,” she says, while acknowledging<br />

it’s the way of today’s fashion world. “We have to accept it and<br />

work it out in a way that works for everyone, for us, designers,<br />

people who are the clients and for women who want to look<br />

beautiful.” Despite the industry upheaval, Herrera still loves<br />

her work, particularly working with her two youngest daughters.<br />

“It’s fabulous,” she offers. “First of all, they don’t lie. A<br />

lot of people are afraid to tell the truth.” Carolina works in<br />

fragrance from her base in Madrid; Patricia, in the design<br />

studio. “She’s like a thermometer,” Herrera maintains.<br />

As the company grows, fragrance remains in the forefront of<br />

the strategy. It brought Herrera together with Puig in the first<br />

place, and remains highly successful. “Every designer should<br />

have a scent,” Herrera says. “If it’s successful, it’s amazing. It<br />

helps with everything. You are everywhere in a little bottle<br />

that people buy.”<br />

Another area close to her heart: bridal. The category has<br />

plenty of challenges — MOBs at the top of the list. Having<br />

been on both sides of that coin — mother to four brides and<br />

designer to countless others — Herrera offers advice sprung<br />

from that innate pragmatism. She urges bridal customers<br />

to do their initial scouting on their own, unburdened of the<br />

opinions of moms and other well-intentioned potential irritants.<br />

Yet in the end, pragmatism takes a backseat to all of the<br />

emotion concentrated in the symbolism of a wedding gown,<br />

even to this most worldly professional. “I love bridal, always,”<br />

Herrera says. “You know why I love it? Because it’s full of<br />

hope and love.”<br />

ARTICLE BY BRIDGET FOLEY<br />

23


BILL CUNNINGHAM<br />

General Motors Building, ca. 1968-1976. Courtesy of the New-York Historical Society<br />

26


JONATHAN BECKER<br />

Zac Posen at home, New York, February 2008<br />

This inaugural showing of Cunningham’s 66 historic<br />

photographs and an original program, on loan to<br />

SCAD FASH from the private collection of Nancy<br />

North, a model who walked in the famed fashion<br />

show, illustrates the moment that American design<br />

houses became the international arbiters of style and<br />

celebrates the glamour and excitement of the day.<br />

The exhibition, Becker’s first museum retrospective<br />

in more than 30 years, was originally presented at<br />

the SCAD Museum of Art in Savannah and included<br />

a selection of new photographs for SCAD FASH<br />

Museum of Fashion + Film..<br />

27


SCAD FASH is pleased to<br />

present “Grand Divertissement à<br />

Versailles, Vintage Photographs by<br />

Bill Cunningham,” an exhibition<br />

featuring exclusive, vintage images<br />

of the legendary 1973 fashion show,<br />

“The Battle of Versailles,” taken by<br />

acclaimed fashion photographer,<br />

Bill Cunningham. This exhibition<br />

showcases Cunningham’s unique<br />

perspective as a staff photographer<br />

for The New York Times and as an<br />

icon of New York and international<br />

fashion, having contributed significantly<br />

to fashion journalism with his<br />

writing and photography for over<br />

half a century.<br />

Bill Cunningham, 57th and 5th Avenue, 2011.<br />

Photo courtesy of Lenzartis.<br />

28


ill cunningham takes manhattan<br />

Afew summers ago, on upper Fifth Avenue, Bill<br />

Cunningham spied a remarkable creature: a woman,<br />

in her seventies, with a corona of blue hair— not<br />

the muzzy pastel hue associated with bad dye jobs but the<br />

irradiant one of Slurpees and laundry detergent. The woman<br />

gave Cunningham an idea. Every day for a month, whenever<br />

he saw something cerulean (a batik shawl) or aqua (a Hawaiian-print<br />

sarong) or azure (a Japanese parasol) coming down<br />

the sidewalk, he snapped a picture of it. One morning, he<br />

spotted a worker balancing, on his shoulder, a stuffed blue<br />

marlin. “I thought, That’s it, kid!” he recently recalled. The<br />

following Sunday, “On the Street,” the street-fashion column<br />

that Cunningham has maintained in the Times for more than<br />

a decade, was populated entirely with New Yorkers dressed in<br />

various shades of the color—a parade of human paint chips.<br />

“Mediterranean shades of blue are not yet the new pink, but<br />

they are a favorite this summer,” he wrote. “The cooling<br />

watery tones, worn as an accent with white and browns,<br />

appear in turquoise-color jewelry and blue hair, but it is rare<br />

to see a man crossing the Avenue of the Americas with a<br />

trophy sailfish.”<br />

Cunningham’s job is not so different from a fisherman’s: it<br />

requires a keen knowledge, honed over years, of the local<br />

ecosystem and infinite patience in all manner of weather<br />

conditions. His first big catch was an accident. It was 1978,<br />

and a woman wearing a nutria coat had caught his eye. “I<br />

thought: ‘Look at the cut of that shoulder. It’s so beautiful,’<br />

“ he later wrote. “And it was a plain coat, too. You’d look at<br />

it and think: ‘Oh, are you crazy? It’s nothing.’ “ Cunningham<br />

shot frame after frame of the coat, eventually noticing that<br />

other people on the sidewalk were paying attention to its<br />

wearer. It was Greta Garbo. Cunningham showed the pictures,<br />

along with some shots of Cornelius Vanderbilt Whitney<br />

(whom he recognized), Farrah Fawcett (whom he didn’t, not<br />

owning<br />

“On the Street”—along with Cunningham’s society column,<br />

“Evening Hours”—is New York’s high-school yearbook, an<br />

exuberant, sometimes retroactively embarrassing chronicle of<br />

the way we looked. Class of 1992: velvet neck ribbons, leopard<br />

prints, black jeans, catsuits, knotted shirts, tote bags, berets<br />

(will they ever come back, after Monica?). Class of 2000: clamdiggers,<br />

beaded fringe, postcard prints, jean jackets, fish-net<br />

stockings, flower brooches (this was the height of “Sex and<br />

the City”). The column, in its way, is as much a portrait of<br />

New York at a given moment in time as any sociological tract<br />

or census—a snapshot of the city. On September 16, 2001,<br />

Cunningham ran a collage of signs (“OUR FINEST HOUR,”<br />

“WE ARE STRONGER NOW”) and flags (on bandannas, on<br />

buildings, on bikes) that makes one as sad and proud, looking<br />

at it now, as it did when it was published. So far this year, he<br />

has identified vogues for picture- frame collars, microminis,<br />

peg-legged pants, and the color gray (“often with a dash of<br />

sapphire or violet,” in the manner of the Edwardians). His<br />

columns are frequently playful —he once featured a woman,<br />

near the Plaza, walking three standard poodles, “an unmatched<br />

set in pink, turquoise, and white”—but they also convey an<br />

29


CUNNINGHAM<br />

elegiac respect for the anonymous promenade of life in a big<br />

city, and a dead-serious desire to get it all down.<br />

For two groups of New Yorkers—the fashionable people,<br />

whose style changes more rapidly than that of the masses, and<br />

the truly creative ones, whose style, while outré, in its theatricality<br />

never really changes at all—“On the Street” is also a<br />

family album. The magazine editors Anna Wintour, Cecilia<br />

Dean, and Carine Roitfeld and the society dermatologist Lisa<br />

Airan are regulars on the page, as are Tziporah Salamon (her<br />

Web site showcases her eight appearances in Cunningham’s<br />

column, including one—a Capri- pants montage—in which<br />

only her legs are visible), and Louise Doktor, a midtown<br />

executive secretary, whose experimental outfits Cunningham<br />

has been documenting from afar for twenty-five years. “She<br />

once bought a coat with four sleeves!” he told me. At a party<br />

thrown last season at Bergdorf Goodman to celebrate the<br />

decoration of the store’s windows in Cunningham’s honor,<br />

guests included not only the police commissioner, Ray<br />

Kelly, and Arthur Sulzberger, Jr., the publisher of the Times<br />

(“You’re great! This is a really big thing,” he said, grabbing<br />

Cunningham, who had shown up at his behest, by the shoulders),<br />

but a woman wearing, on her head, what looked like<br />

one of those blue pompoms from a car wash, and a man with a<br />

Swiss-dot veil drawn in ink on his forehead.<br />

Cunningham, who turns eighty this month, is an annual presence<br />

at certain society events: the Fifth Avenue Easter Parade,<br />

the Central Park Conservancy luncheon, the Hampton Classic<br />

Horse Show. This winter, at the ice-skating rink in Central<br />

Park, he took pictures of the children of the children whose<br />

parents he once shot outside Maxim’s took pictures of the<br />

children of the children whose parents he once shot outside<br />

Maxim’s and at the Hotel Pierre (where, at a dinner dance<br />

in 1984, he captured thirty-three women in similar Fabrice<br />

beaded gowns). His vocabulary (“Cheers, child!”) and his<br />

diction (“Mrs. Oh-nah-sis”) are those of a more genteel era—<br />

the weekly audio slideshow he does for the Times offers many<br />

of the pleasures of a Lomax recording—but he rarely goes for<br />

the easy grip-and-grin shot. His sensibility is exhilaratingly<br />

democratic. He takes wonder, or whimsy, where he finds it,<br />

chronicling the Obama Inauguration, the Puerto Rican Day<br />

Parade, Wigstock, and the snowman sweatshirts and reindeer<br />

turtlenecks of tourists; the do-rag and the way that, at one<br />

point in 2000, many young hip-hop fans spontaneously took<br />

to wearing their sweatshirts abstractly, with the neck hole on<br />

the shoulder, or with the sleeves dangling down the back. (He<br />

related the phenomenon to both the Japanese deconstructionists<br />

and the sideways baseball cap.)<br />

The four corners of Fifth Avenue and Fifty-seventh Street<br />

are some of Cunningham’s favorite shoals. One bright afternoon,<br />

he was there, as he has been for countless hours, casting<br />

about for inspiration. “I have an idea what I’m going to do this<br />

week,” he said. (What that was he refused to say.) “I’ve got to<br />

face the bullet very quickly. If it doesn’t have enough depth, I<br />

should wait.” It was a crackerjack day. “Look at the style you<br />

have here!” Cunningham said. “Stay here on Fifth Avenue and<br />

you see the whole world. Summertime—the vacationers and<br />

the Europeans. The holidays—everyone from the Midwest,<br />

the West, Japan. They’re all here, the whole world!”<br />

Cunningham lives alone in the Carnegie Hall Tower, one of<br />

the last tenants in a formerly vast complex of artists’ studios,<br />

without a private bathroom or cooking facilities. His bed<br />

consists of a piece of foam, a wooden board, and several milk<br />

crates. Nearby is a metal file cabinet crammed with decades’<br />

worth of negatives. (Trip Gabriel, the editor of the Times’<br />

30


CUNNINGHAM<br />

Photograph courtesy of Richard Press, 2011.<br />

Sunday Styles section, where Cunningham’s column appears,<br />

told me that when Cunningham goes to the Paris collections<br />

“our reporters are staying right in the First Arrondissement,<br />

sometimes at the Ritz, and Bill insists on staying at a cheapo<br />

hotel that has no phones in the rooms.” To make a reservation,<br />

he sends a postcard.) “When I fall out of bed in the<br />

morning, I can come over here and get up my adrenaline,”<br />

Cunningham said, blowing his nose into a deli napkin that he<br />

produced from a pocket of the blue workman’s smock that he<br />

customarily wears, as if to say, in solidarity with the hot-dog<br />

venders and delivery boys amid whom he spends his days, that<br />

his office is the street. Around his neck was a battered Nikon.<br />

Its strap was held together with duct tape. Cunningham has<br />

often been described as a fashion monk, but he is closer to<br />

an oblate—a layperson who has dedicated his life to the tribe<br />

without becoming a part of it. A friend of Cunningham’s<br />

told Artforum in 1996, “One of Bill’s favorite sayings, when<br />

anyone starts taking the fashion scene too seriously, is ‘Oops,<br />

you’re falling into the traps of the rich.’ “ In a recent column,<br />

examining the way New Yorkers dress for wet weather,<br />

31


CUNNINGHAM<br />

Cunningham poked fun at “the snobs,” who “are so above it<br />

all, they think the waters will part for them even as they sink<br />

to their ankles.”<br />

Behind Cunningham, the windows of Bergdorf ’s were<br />

festooned with blow-ups of his columns. Linda Fargo, the<br />

store’s vice-president of visual merchandising, said it had<br />

taken ten years to persuade Cunningham to agree to the<br />

exhibit. “Bill is not somebody you can ever press yourself on,”<br />

Fargo said. “I once, to thank him for something, gave him a<br />

very small box of chocolates, and he personally delivered it<br />

back to my office two days later.” There was confetti made<br />

from shredded newspapers. “I’m delighted, but also a little<br />

embarrassed, because you try to be invisible, and this blows<br />

your cover!” Cunningham said, hoisting the Nikon to his eye<br />

and darting off, mid- sentence, in pursuit of a woman with a<br />

fetching fur-lined handbag.<br />

“Luckily, you can slip back into being anonymous very<br />

quickly,” he continued, once he’d returned. “I don’t really see<br />

people—I see clothes. People say everybody’s a slob. Ridiculous!<br />

There are marvellously”—it came out, in a wonderful<br />

archaic honk, as “maah- vah-lously”—“dressed women you<br />

see at a quarter to eight, going to business. When people say<br />

fashion is no more, they’re ridiculous! It’s as good as it ever<br />

was.” I asked if he ever photographed people who didn’t look<br />

so great, the sidewalk’s blooper reel.<br />

He seemed almost offended. “I’m not drawn to something<br />

awful,” he said. “I wouldn’t even see that. I’m looking for<br />

something that has beauty. Do’s and don’ts? I don’t think<br />

there are any don’ts! What right does one have? It’s like the<br />

Queen of England, when she appears, and people have nasty<br />

things to say. My God, she’s dressing for her station and her<br />

office!” A burly man dressed in a flannel shirt and steel-toed<br />

boots approached. “Hi! I’d like to shake the hand of the kid!”<br />

he said, boomingly, offering his palm to Cunningham, who<br />

smiled. The two men began shadowboxing.<br />

“Congrats, Billy. Can’t believe they even got a bicycle in the<br />

window!”The man headed off down the sidewalk, and, as<br />

he faded from view, I asked who he was. “You get to know<br />

people,” Cunningham said, explaining that it was an undercover<br />

cop.<br />

Cunningham was born and brought up in Boston, the<br />

second of four children in an Irish Catholic family. There<br />

remains about him a distinct New Englishness. “One of our<br />

colleagues says that his voice sounds like that of an elderly<br />

hardware-store owner in Vermont,” Trip Gabriel said. At the<br />

Times, Cunningham doesn’t use a computer; he recently got<br />

a desk, and voice mail, which he has never checked. The paper<br />

got rid of its film-processing lab a few years ago, when it went<br />

digital, so Cunningham has his film developed at a one-hour<br />

photo center, on Forty-third Street. Each week, he brings a<br />

batch of his negatives to the office, where a member of the art<br />

department helps him create a layout. “He has browbeaten<br />

and exhausted and worn out the patience of generations of<br />

assistants in that process,” Gabriel said, with affection.<br />

“It was difficult around the turn of this century,” Cunningham<br />

said, “because I had older art directors and they had other<br />

ideas of how things should be laid out. No one could stand<br />

me. Too much trouble! Five pictures, and that’s it. I said, ‘You<br />

can’t do that. You’ve got to tell a story to the reader.’ I’m<br />

writing with pictures—that’s what I always tell them. You go<br />

and tell Maureen Dowd she can only use fifteen words, and<br />

no changes. That’s ridiculous!” He continued, “Young kids,<br />

32


CUNNINGHAM<br />

All photographs taken by Bill Cunningham and provided by The New York Times.<br />

33


CUNNINGHAM<br />

Photograph courtesy of Esenta Tare.<br />

aren’t they wonderful? Not because I push them around—I<br />

would never do that—but because they’re more open to new<br />

thought.” According to “Bill on Bill”—an autobiographical<br />

article, published in the Times in 2002, that for those with<br />

an interest in Cunningham has taken on the authority of a<br />

holy text —Cunningham got his start in fashion as a stockboy<br />

at Bonwit Teller, where an executive, noticing his habit of<br />

watching the lunchtime passersby (“I said, ‘Oh, yeah, that’s<br />

my hobby’ “), encouraged him to revamp their outfits in his<br />

mind’s eye. In 1948, after a few months of classes at Harvard,<br />

Cunningham arrived in New York, where he lived with an<br />

aunt and uncle and worked at Bonwit’s, again, in advertising,<br />

his uncle’s profession. “That’s why my family allowed me<br />

to come here and encouraged me to go into the business,”<br />

he wrote in “Bill on Bill.” “I think they were worried I was<br />

becoming too interested in women’s dresses.”<br />

Actually, hats. After a year, Cunningham rented a top-floor<br />

room in a walkup on East Fifty-second Street. In exchange for<br />

the apartment, he agreed to clean for the men who owned the<br />

building. He worked at a drugstore, and at Howard Johnson,<br />

as a counterman. (“Both jobs provided my meals,” he wrote,<br />

“and the dimes and nickels of my tips paid for millinery<br />

supplies.”) He sold his creations to a carriage-trade clientele<br />

under the name William J. “My family would have been too<br />

embarrassed,” he recalled. “They were very shy people.”<br />

During the Korean War, Cunningham was drafted into the<br />

Army; when he returned to New York he resumed the hat<br />

trade from a shop on West Fifty-fourth Street. In 1963, John<br />

Fairchild hired him as a writer at Women’s Wear Daily. (Eventually,<br />

he went on to cover fashion for the Chicago Tribune<br />

and for Details.) For a time in the late fifties, he owned a<br />

hat shop on Jobs Lane, in Southampton. He is said to have<br />

slept on a cot, hanging his wardrobe—khakis, a shirt, a pair<br />

of underwear—over the closet door. In 1966, a photographer<br />

Cunningham knew gave him an Olympus Pen D half-frame<br />

camera. “It cost about thirty-five dollars,” Cunningham wrote.<br />

“He said, ‘Here, use it like a notebook.’ And that was the real<br />

beginning.”<br />

The best ensembles Cunningham ever saw were in the sixties.<br />

“I was at a fashion show on Seventh Avenue one day, and I<br />

heard commotion out on the street,” he said. “I said, ‘Huh,<br />

what’s that?’ and got up and left the show and saw all these<br />

flower children protesting the Vietnam War. I suddenly realized<br />

that I had always liked the street. I should have known all<br />

along.” Other scenes that have stuck with him: the “incredible<br />

34


“<br />

The problem is I'm not a<br />

good photographer. To be<br />

perfectly honest, I'm too<br />

shy. ot aggressive enough.<br />

Well, I'm not aggressive<br />

at all. I just loved to<br />

see wonderfully dressed<br />

women, and I still do.”<br />

CUNNINGHAM<br />

−BILL CUNNINGHAM<br />

things” from “those marvellous concerts in Tompkins Square<br />

Park”; a woman, walking up things” from “those marvellous<br />

concerts in Tompkins Square Park”; a woman, walking up<br />

Madison Avenue, in a beige-and-black knitted suit from Sonia<br />

Rykiel, accompanied by two beige-and-black pug dogs on<br />

Venetian-red leashes with gold bells.<br />

Cunningham stepped up to one of the Bergdorf windows and<br />

peered at the exhibit inside. “Oh, this is a Doktor,” he said,<br />

referring to a shot of Mrs. Doktor, the secretary, with the<br />

hushed reverence accorded a Renoir or a van Gogh, as if she,<br />

not he, were the artist. “One of the most fascinating. That’s a<br />

wooden gold picture frame that she’s wearing as a necklace. I<br />

got up close, and saw that it had been cut and it was on hinges,<br />

so that it conformed to her body.” A few seconds earlier, a<br />

young Japanese woman had pressed her nose to the glass.<br />

“See, that’s a Margiela sweater,” Cunningham said, indicating<br />

what appeared to be a few stray white yarns on the back of the<br />

woman’s cardigan. “It’s his label. He just uses stitches.”<br />

Haute couture, of which Cunningham has rabbinical knowledge,<br />

is appealing to him insofar as it attracts the most fluent<br />

speakers of fashion, which he, and his admirers, consider a sort<br />

of social language. “He is able to show us who we are before<br />

we’re able to see it,” Linda Fargo said, when we spoke last fall.<br />

“No sooner does Bill call it a trend— observe it, organize it,<br />

and publish it—than it’s a trend. The real news of the week<br />

was the aggressive footwear. I’m kind of bubbling and aerating<br />

it with our team, and boom!”— Cunningham’s column the<br />

following Sunday featured a montage of mostly black high<br />

heels and boots, studded and strapped like those of a stampede<br />

of dominatrices. In October, a few years ago, Cunningham<br />

noticed, on his daily rounds, that an unusual number of<br />

women were carrying enormous—practically Hefty-size—tote<br />

bags embellished with geometric patterns. “I thought, My<br />

God, what’s going on?” he recalled. “You see, the story was<br />

the handbags were becoming more elaborate and heavier and<br />

heavier, and apparently Goyard, a hundred-year-old French<br />

firm, was able to develop a canvas coated with lacquer that was<br />

durable, lightweight, and could hold lots of stuff. There’s got<br />

to be a reason when a lot of people buy things.”<br />

Cunningham is as attuned to the bourgeois as he is to the<br />

avant-garde, and the mundane accessories of day-to-day life<br />

are as exalted in his photographs as any platform shoe or<br />

deconstructed bustle. Balaclavas, shown in collage, hint at the<br />

martial aspect of New York street life. An umbrella, flipped<br />

inside out by the wind, becomes an abstract sculpture; a snow<br />

35


CUNNINGHAM<br />

Photograph courtesy of Perfect Channel.<br />

36


CUNNINGHAM<br />

Photograph courtesy of Anna McDonald, 2009<br />

poncho, wrapped around its wearer’s head, is a plastic exoskeleton<br />

that will eventually be shed. He is drawn to anything<br />

natural: children, gardens, parks, animals. (His column has<br />

featured a parrot, a duck, a python, a monkey, a tortoise, and<br />

many dogs; not long ago, he took a train all the way back<br />

to Long Island when he realized that some black irises he<br />

had just seen at Old Westbury Gardens perfectly echoed the<br />

filigreed lines of both a 1900 cut-velvet Worth gown and<br />

some nearby wrought-iron gates.) He has a thing for curbside<br />

puddles. “It’s a little ridiculous, but a fierce snowstorm is<br />

wonderful!” he said. “Oh, it’s marvellous—it just rearranges<br />

the whole fashion scene when the wind blows down from<br />

the top of the Avenue. Six-, seven-hundred-dollar shoes, and<br />

they’re all in the slush—hey, it’s pretty peculiar!” He went on,<br />

“Nothing like a good blizzard, kid, and you got pictures!”<br />

Among the sort of people who know they are wearing noteworthy<br />

outfits it is considered poor form—and, moreover,<br />

bad luck—to acknowledge that Cunningham is taking one’s<br />

picture, to blow his pose of invisibility. “If you see him,<br />

proper etiquette is just be yourself, but keep moving forward,”<br />

Linda Fargo said. For a civilian, though, opening the Sunday<br />

paper and finding that the way she looked, on the way to a<br />

dental appointment, or to the grocery store, was pleasing to<br />

Cunningham can be a thrilling experience, like opening the<br />

mailbox to find a love letter from a suitor she didn’t know<br />

existed.<br />

Cunningham nodded politely, but said little. As soon as he<br />

could, he scampered off down the sidewalk to snap a picture<br />

of a matron, on her husband’s elbow, in a yellow-and-black<br />

checkerboard suit.<br />

“The season is changing, but it’s more than change of season,”<br />

he said, when he returned. “It’s how fashion will reflect the<br />

financial changes. Fashion, the people wearing it, will do it<br />

before they even know what they’re doing. You don’t know<br />

yet, it’s just starting to gel, but there will be a style. You watch,<br />

you’ll see something. There’s the old saw about hemlines.<br />

Who knows? It’s only in the future you can know. You just<br />

have to stay out on the street and get it. It’s all here.”<br />

ARTICLE BY LAUREN COLLINS<br />

37


a fashionable mind:<br />

JONATHAN<br />

BECKER<br />

Jonathan Becker grew up in New York and lived in Paris<br />

in the 1970s. A protégé of iconic photographer Brassaï<br />

while in France, he began his career as a portraitist at<br />

Interview magazine. As New York exhibitions of Becker's<br />

work garnered critical acclaim and visibility, he expanded<br />

his work as a documentarian in the 1980s with Slim<br />

Aarons and Frank Zachary at Town & Country magazine.<br />

Becker began contributing to Vanity Fair under<br />

the tutelage of its founding design director Bea Feitler.<br />

His portraits of filmmaker Louis Malle and of Becker's<br />

mentor and friend Brassaï featured largely in the pages<br />

of the prototype for the magazine's relaunch in 1982.<br />

Becker's specialty in portraits, photographed by and large<br />

on location, soon became a Vanity Fair staple: Robert<br />

Mapplethorpe, Jack Kevorkian, Jocelyn Wildenstein and<br />

Martha Graham, as well as countless socialites, artists<br />

and heads of state. Assignments have dispatched Becker<br />

far and wide — from the Amazon rain forest for first-encounter<br />

photographs of members of the Yanomami tribe<br />

to Buckingham Palace for the first photographs showing<br />

the Prince of Wales and Camilla Parker Bowles together.<br />

Becker is also known for his close collaboration with<br />

Bob Colacello, Alex Shoumatoff and other Vanity Fair<br />

writers on stories about the denizens of worldly watering<br />

holes, the Adirondacks and Aspen, Palm Beach and Palm<br />

Springs, Capri and others. Over the course of three years'<br />

work for The Rockefeller Foundation, Becker documented<br />

its funded projects on five continents. Four books<br />

of his work have been published: "Bright Young Things,"<br />

"Studios by the Sea, Artists of Long Island's East End,"<br />

"Bright Young Things: London" and "Jonathan Becker:<br />

30 Years at Vanity Fair."<br />

38<br />

Lauren Davis at home, Park Avenue, 2005, Vogue.


39


BECKER<br />

Nicole Kidman, Hollywood, 2000<br />

Designer Tom Ford and agent Massimo Redaelli,<br />

Cannes, for Vanity Fair, 2004<br />

First lady of France Carla Bruni Sarkoz, for Vogue<br />

Magazine at the at Elysee Palace on January 7,<br />

2009 in Paris, France<br />

The work of master photographer Jonathan Becker<br />

is—quite simply—sublime, offering private glimpses inside<br />

the remarkable lives of royalty, celebrities, artists, writers,<br />

activists, and scores of fascinating people around the globe. In<br />

capturing their pain, their ennui, their anguish, and their joy,<br />

Becker humanizes his subjects, revealing the curiously ordinary<br />

side of the extraordinary. Becker’s inclusive eye frames<br />

cultural history. His portraits for Vanity Fair—a magazine<br />

he has contributed to for more than three decades—tell the<br />

40


BECKER<br />

haunting, personal stories of loss, memory, and contemplation.<br />

The expansive breadth of Becker’s photography chronicles a<br />

world in transition, a view of society that is seldom seen. His<br />

ability to seize the authenticity of a moment is reflected by<br />

his life spent delivering unforgettable, lasting images. The<br />

Savannah College of Art and Design is honored to share the<br />

world of Becker in A Fashionable Mind: Photographs by Jonathan<br />

Becker—the first museum retrospective of his work in<br />

more than 30 years—at SCAD FASH, the Savannah College<br />

of Art and Design’s museum celebrating fashion and film.<br />

ARTICLE BY PAULA WALLACE<br />

41


BECKER<br />

Andy Warhol and his corsets at the fourth factory, New York, 1986.<br />

Mapplethorpe at his Whitney Retrospective, 1988.<br />

Madonna, Martha Graham, Calvin Klein at City Center, 1990.<br />

42


BECKER<br />

“<br />

My goal is to always<br />

make one good<br />

picture, even it it's<br />

one good picture a<br />

year. It's a picture<br />

of a rapport. There's<br />

something there<br />

a twinkle.”<br />

−JONATHAN BECKER<br />

43


leadership<br />

“This museum focuses on<br />

the past, present and future<br />

of fashion design, connecting<br />

conceptual to historical<br />

principles of dress, whether<br />

ceremonial, celebratory or<br />

casual, and welcomes visitors<br />

of all ages to engage with<br />

cutting-edge exhibitions,<br />

educationally enriching events,<br />

films and forums, guided by<br />

curricula for K-12 students<br />

and resources for graduate<br />

scholars.”<br />

−SCAD President & Founder, Paula Wallace<br />

Photos courtesy of SCAD FASH.<br />

44


PAULA WALLACE<br />

Paula Wallace is the president and<br />

founder of the Savannah College of<br />

Art and Design, a private, nonprofit,<br />

accredited university for creative<br />

careers. Established in 1978, SCAD<br />

is the largest, most comprehensive art<br />

and design university in the U.S. Since<br />

her appointment as president in 2000,<br />

Wallace has more than doubled the<br />

university's enrollment from less than<br />

5,000 students to more than 12,000<br />

students hailing from more than 100<br />

countries. Wallace has created several<br />

signature SCAD events, including the<br />

Savannah Film Festival, SCAD deFINE<br />

ART, SCADstyle, Sidewalk Arts Festival<br />

and SCAD aTVfest. Under her leadership,<br />

SCAD was named one of the<br />

2014 Red Dot Design Rankings top 10<br />

universities in the Americas and Europe.<br />

Further, the SCAD undergraduate interior<br />

design program earned DesignIntelligence's<br />

top ranking for four consecutive<br />

years.<br />

Wallace earned a Bachelor of Arts<br />

degree from Furman University and<br />

Master of Education and Education<br />

Specialist degrees from Georgia State<br />

University; she also was awarded an<br />

honorary Doctor of Laws from Gonzaga<br />

University. Wallace was appointed a<br />

Chevalier dans l'Ordre des Palmes<br />

Academiques by the French Embassy<br />

in the United States of America, and<br />

the Georgia Historical Society named<br />

her a 2015 Georgia Trustee. She serves<br />

on the National Advisory Board of the<br />

National Museum of Women in the Arts<br />

in Washington, D.C.<br />

ALEXANDRA SACHS<br />

Alexandra Sachs is the executive director<br />

of SCAD FASH and the university's<br />

Atlanta galleries and exhibitions. Prior<br />

to joining SCAD, she directed Solomon<br />

Projects, a gallery of contemporary art<br />

in Atlanta, for a decade. Additionally,<br />

Sachs has worked for the Baltimore<br />

Museum of Art and the British Council<br />

at the Venice Biennale. She serves as the<br />

vice president for board of directors of<br />

Art Papers and is an active volunteer for<br />

arts and civic organizations in Atlanta.<br />

RAFAEL GOMES<br />

Rafael Gomes is a fashion exhibitions<br />

consultant for the Savannah College of<br />

Art and Design. Before joining SCAD,<br />

he was an archivist and exhibition coordinator<br />

at Vivienne Westwood, where he<br />

oversaw the coordination and styling of<br />

global fashion shoots, videos and fashion<br />

shows. Gomes also designed, planned<br />

and executed large-scale exhibitions at<br />

numerous world-renowned museums<br />

and galleries, including the Victoria and<br />

Albert Museum, the Palace of Versailles,<br />

the New York Metropolitan Museum of<br />

Art, and the SCAD Museum of Art.<br />

45


GROUP VISITS<br />

SCAD FASH welcomes groups by appointment, extending its exhibition and<br />

educational resources through guided tours and access to scheduled film screenings,<br />

lectures and gallery talks.<br />

Group visits are available at reduced rates for a minimum of 10 people.<br />

Reservations should be secured by phone or email at least two weeks in advance.<br />

For more information or to make a reservation, email at scadfash@scad.edu or call<br />

404.253.3132.<br />

The benefits of group reservations include:<br />

• Discounted rates for parties of 10 visitors or more<br />

• Expedited check-in<br />

• A dedicated tour guide for your group, if desired<br />

TOUR INFORMATION<br />

Guided tours of the museum provide visitors with an introduction to museum collections<br />

and special exhibitions on display. Group tours can be arranged in advance<br />

by email at scadfash@scad.edu or by calling 404.253.3132.<br />

VISITOR GUIDELINES<br />

CHECKROOM<br />

The museum requires visitors to check<br />

umbrellas, backpacks and bags before<br />

entering the galleries. The museum<br />

reserves the right to refuse other items<br />

and is not responsible for items held by<br />

the checkroom.<br />

MOBILITY ACCESS<br />

All galleries and facilities are wheelchair<br />

accessible. Wheelchair accessible and<br />

handicapped-accessible parking is<br />

available on the fourth level of the<br />

adjacent SCAD Atlanta parking deck.<br />

The museum has a wheelchair available<br />

for guest use.<br />

CAMERAS<br />

Still photography or videography for<br />

personal use is permitted in the museum<br />

lobby and some exhibitions. No flash<br />

or tripods allowed. No photographs<br />

or videotapes may be reproduced,<br />

distributed or sold without permission<br />

from the museum.<br />

SMOKING<br />

Smoking is prohibited inside the<br />

museum and the SCAD Atlanta facility.<br />

CELLULAR PHONES<br />

The use of cellular phones in the<br />

museum galleries is not permitted.<br />

FOOD AND DRINKS<br />

Food and drinks are not permitted in<br />

the museum.<br />

SKETCHING<br />

Sketching, in pencil only, is permitted in<br />

galleries. Use of any medium other than<br />

pencil must be approved and supervised.<br />

While sketching, please do not block<br />

gallery traffic flow.<br />

STROLLERS<br />

Strollers are permitted in the galleries,<br />

but oversize strollers are prohibited.<br />

46


visit scad fash<br />

SCAD FASH<br />

1600 Peachtree St. NW<br />

Atlanta, GA 30309<br />

404. 253. 3132<br />

scadfash@scad.edu<br />

Photo courtesy of SCAD FASH.<br />

HOURS<br />

Sunday: Noon to 5 p.m.<br />

Monday: Closed<br />

Tuesday: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.<br />

Wednesday: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.<br />

Thursday: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.<br />

Friday: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.<br />

Saturday: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.<br />

Closed Holidays: New Year’s Day, Martin Luther King Jr.<br />

Day, Easter, July 4th, Labor Day, Thanksgiving and following<br />

day, Christmas Day<br />

ADMISSION<br />

Tickets are available at the museum front desk or online<br />

General Admission: $10<br />

Discounted (senior/military): $8<br />

Family (three or more): $20<br />

College students with ID: $5<br />

SCAD alumni: $5<br />

Children under 14: $ FREE<br />

SCAD student/faculty/staff: FREE<br />

Any scheduled special exhibitions, films, lectures and gallery<br />

talks are included in the price of admission.<br />

47


membership<br />

SCAD FASH members receive exclusive benefits and privileges and also advance<br />

the SCAD FASH mission, providing crucial support for community outreach, educational<br />

programs, exhibitions and art conservation. In addition, the benefits of supporting<br />

SCAD FASH are honored at the SCAD Museum of Art, providing access to<br />

two world-class institutions with one membership. You may purchase memberships<br />

online, by calling 912.525.7191 or in person at the museum admission desk.<br />

SCAD FASH Museum, Oscar de la Renta Exhibition, 2015.<br />

Photo courtesy of SCAD FASH.<br />

48


BENEFITS<br />

» Free admission<br />

» Invitations to members-only exhibition receptions<br />

» Museum newsletter<br />

» 10 percent discount on admission for member guests<br />

» 10 percent museum shop discount<br />

FRIEND: Up to $150<br />

» All general membership benefits<br />

» Unlimited free admission for two adults<br />

» Two free guest passes annually<br />

» Invitation to exclusive exhibition previews<br />

» Private, curator-led museum tour for two adults<br />

» Invitations to special events<br />

DONOR: Up to $500<br />

» All FRIEND level benefits<br />

» Five free guest passes annually<br />

» Choice of two copies of SCAD-published exhibition<br />

catalog or book<br />

PATRON: Up to $1,500<br />

» All DONOR level benefits<br />

» Invitation to private patron tours<br />

» Ten free guest passes annually<br />

» Reserved seating at special events and lectures such as<br />

SCAD deFINE ART and SCADstyle<br />

SUPPORTING PATRON: Up to $3,000<br />

» All PATRON level benefits<br />

» Two general admission tickets to the SCAD Fashion<br />

Show or one aTVfest festival pass<br />

» Advance purchasing for Savannah Film Festival passes<br />

PRESIDENT’S CIRCLE: Up to $6,000<br />

» All SUPPORTING PATRON level benefits<br />

» Two Savannah Film Festival Gold passes or four<br />

aTVfest platinum passes<br />

» Private, curator-led museum tour for up to 10 adults<br />

(upon request)<br />

» Four VIP tickets to the SCAD Fashion Show or two<br />

aTVfest festival passes<br />

49


credits<br />

Publication design by Torey Thrash<br />

Spring 2016<br />

Typefaces used:<br />

Janson Test LT Std (55 Roman, 56<br />

Italic, 75 Bold, 75 Bold Italic)<br />

Photos courtesy of:<br />

scadfash.com<br />

(unless otherwise noted)<br />

Content courtesy of:<br />

scadfash.com<br />

(unless otherwise noted)<br />

Photo courtesy of SCAD FASH.<br />

50

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