RAK - In the Footsteps of Bedouin

In the Footsteps of 

Bedouins 

The northern Emirate of Ras Al Khaimah is probably not the first 

place you think of when you plan to visit the United Arab Emirates, 

but this hidden gem on the Gulf coast is quickly emerging as one of 

the key cultural destination in the region. 

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RAS AL KHAIMAH 

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This page: falcon; old 

buildings. Opposite, 

clockwise from left: 

Waldorf Ras Al Khaimah 

golf course; Banyan Tree 

Ras Al Khaimah; 

mountaneous desert; 

Rixos Bab Al Bahr; 

Waldorf Ras Al Khaimah 

main entrance 

Unlike in neighbouring Dubai where the culture and 

architecture is very modern, RAK’s relative obscurity has 

allowed the Emirate to retain much of its traditional Arab 

and Khaliji heritage. The hotels, although being western brands, 

have embraced their Arabian architectural roots; the attractions may 

be suited to foreign visitors, but that doesn’t mean they don’t give 

an important insight into local Bedouin traditions; and the untouched 

natural sights are simply spectacular. 

Arguably one of the finest hotels in the UAE. the Waldorf Astoria 

Ras Al Khaimah is nestled at the end of a private road in an 

enclosed upmarket community, this imposing palace is a sandy 

yellow beacon that encompasses every vision that visitors could 

ever have about the mysterious unexplored Arabian lands. The 

Waldorf has its own 350-metre-long private beach complete with 

deckchairs and lifeguard, several pools, hideaways where the 

only sound to be heard is the howling of the wind circling around 

the rounded walls of the hotel, and 10 floors, each with its own 

special charm. 

The rooms aren’t big, they don’t offer nice views, they are 

absolutely huge and they host views across the beach and rippling 

sea that you might not expect when you visit the Middle East. Every 

aspect of the rooms has been expertly designed to bridge the gap 

between Arabian heritage and luxury. The walls and carved ceilings 

have been painted in calming browns and beiges, the five 

armchairs and sofas ensure that you can’t get tired when you walk 

from one end of the room to the other (they really are that big!), and 

the marble balcony is like a postcard picture come to life. 

If you can drag yourself away from the splendour and majesty of 

the Waldorf’s nine restaurants, in-room coffee machine, and 

18-hole golf course, then you will get to see why RAK is quickly 

emerging as a bucket list destination. You might choose to visit the 

5-star pink-toned Nubian style villas of Cove Rotana Resort and its 

Basilico Restaurant, sampling succulent lamb cutlets, cinnamon 

sorbets and carpaccio salad. Or you could choose to venture a little 

further away from the comfort of the Waldorf and explore what 

nature brings to this forgotten Emirate. 

You may think that staying in a 5-star hotel is far from a local 

experience, but you are probably more likely to meet a local Emirati 

whiling away their weekend in RAK’s hotels than anywhere else in 

the state. The Rixos Bab Al Bahr is a triplet of pyramid-shaped 

apartment blocks circled around what is essentially a self-enclosed 

town; Italian, steak, Thai, French restaurants, nightclubs, pools and 

bars, a private beach, and a kids’ area make this a unique offering 

in RAK. No less Arabesque, and just as popular with locals, is the 

DoubleTree Marjan Island, a villa and apartment-style hotel with “the 

best Italian restaurant in the UAE” according to the Turkish head 

chef at the Vespa restaurant. Emiratis are often seen here sampling 

world cuisines. 

Al Marjan Island is a man-made archipelago comprising 4 coral 

islands shaped like a dolphin, a starfish, and a squid. Although Al 

Marjan is technically artificial, it looks like it could have risen from 

the deep like this. As you walk along the narrow roads that run 

along these islands, pause for a moment, take a deep breath of 

fresh Gulf air, and just take it all in. Listen to the speedboats roaring 

past, the rhythmic humming of the wind rushing between the 

luxurious villas, and the splashing of the sea as it hits the shore. 

Only in the Gulf can you stand on a dolphin island and look back 

to the mainland as the sun begins to set behind the mosques and 

hotels of Ras Al Khaimah. 

A short drive outside of central RAK, the Jazirat Al Hamra stands 

in defiance against the oil boom that has brought extreme wealth to 

the Emirates, hammering at the door of local Emiratis and reminding 

them what life was like before the discovery of natural resources. 

This former fishing village has been covered in a layer of sand, 

creating an eerie ghost town; it’s almost like the desert is trying to 

reclaim land that was only ever given to people temporarily. Now the 

crumbling buildings and simple architecture sits in the middle of 

reclaimed land, so you have to close your eyes and imagine that 

you are surrounded by seas filled with traditional fishermen in the 

dhows, but Al Hamra is impressive nonetheless. 

Can you imagine hundreds of local 16th century soldiers standing 

in rows, complete with their white kanduras and swords overlooking 

the coast? When you visit Dhayah Fort, a towering square stone 

fortification in the mountains surrounding the city that was originally 

built to defend against a perceived British attack, these images 

really come to life. Local RAK citizens are proud of their formerly 

tribal identity; Dhayah and its stunning natural surroundings 

undoubtedly contributed to protecting the way of life that some 

Bedouin tribes still live by high in the Jebel Jais mountains. 

Ras Al Khaimah is an Emirate of contrasts. At one end of the 

Sheikhdom you can find endless orange sand dunes for as far as 

the eyes can see; fine rolling blankets of sand cover the surprisingly 

smooth roads that twist and wind through the desert like a snake 

chasing its prey. And camels strip the acacia 

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Left to right: Ras Al Khaimah desert; oryx; Ras Al Khaimah bedouin oasis 

trees of their leaves, Oryx stand in the thick sand glaring at you as 

you walk past, and the echoing of pure breed Arabian horses 

neighing echoes through the otherwise silent air from the Al Wadi 

Equestrian Centre. This side of RAK is the typical image that most 

people have of the Arabian Peninsula. 

At the other side of the Emirate, near the border with the Sultanate 

of Oman, the natural environment could not be more different. The 

sand has been replaced by towering grey mountains and sheer 

drops; you can zip-line down these at Via Ferrata. Roads become 

steeper and narrower. And the air becomes thinner as you progress 

higher and higher. When you finally reach the end of the road in the 

Jebel Jais mountains, some 1,892 metres above sea level, be 

prepared to be taken aback by the breath taking (literally!) views out 

to the Arabian Gulf, down to RAK city, and over the horizon as the 

sun begins to set, casting an orange hue over the 

craggy rocks. If you have time bring some food 

and have a picnic on the edge of a cliff, everyone 

seems to do it here. 

If you can’t get enough of the desert in RAK, 

and want to experience a little of what Arabia was 

like before the discovery of oil broke the Emirati 

national bank account, then you are in luck. The 

Bedouin Oasis Camp is as close to pre-oil that 

you can get in the UAE save pitching a camel skin 

tent in the middle of nowhere. The experience 

spending the night amongst actual Bedouin 

people really is something else. Picture the pure 

desert skies gradually getting darker as the smoke of the barbeque 

gently fills the air, leaving shadows behind on the sands below. And 

sit on a cushion as fire breathers, belly dancers, and a whirling 

dervish demonstrates traditional Arabian entertainment. At the end 

of the day you can retreat to an authentic Bedouin tent without the 

distractions of everyday life; no Wi-Fi, no heating, only a small light, 

a camp bed, and the most basic of bathrooms separated by a 

sheet of tarpaulin. Imagine the simplicity and what gazing up at the 

unpolluted night skies can do for the soul. 

On a similar vein, surely there is nothing more authentically 

Arabian than the ancient art of falconry. At the side of a watering 

hole popular with gazelle, oryx and cranes in the ultra-luxurious 

Banyan Tree Al Wadi, this historic art form is demonstrated to small 

groups of people. Experienced animal trainers demonstrate the 

intelligence and speed of these majestic birds that are highly 

respected by wealthy Emirati families and Bedouin alike. Watch as 

meat is swung around in the air and the birds sweep in to catch it 

and free-flying peregrines, and learn a thing or two about this 

‘RAK’s relative 

obscurity has allowed 

the Emirate to retain 

much of its traditional 

Arab and Khaliji 

heritage.’ 

historic Arabian tradition that has become the synonymous image of 

the Gulf. 

You simply can’t visit this hidden gem on the Gulf coast without 

exploring the varied and exciting dining options available here, 

combining local Arabian favourites, Middle Eastern specialities, 

somewhat unusual dishes, and interesting drinks. Succulent 

roasted chicken covered in spices, soft yellow and white rice, sweet 

currants, and bitter raw onions. Does this description alone make 

your mouth water? If it does, and it should, then a visit to the 

authentic Emirati restaurant Al Fanar could be in order. As soon as 

you walk through the heavy wooden doors you will be greeted with 

the fragrant scent of floral hand wash and spices. Sand coloured 

walls and oak tables all add to the atmosphere of dining on 

traditional Emirati food in an authentic Emirati restaurant with real 

Emirati people. All of the dishes served here use 

decades-old recipes and only the finest locally 

sourced ingredients. The head chef, Mohammad, 

describes the restaurant in one simple sentence: 

“The only authentic Emirati restaurant in the 

world.” 

RAK is not the easiest Emirate to navigate as 

there is no public transport, so hiring a tour guide 

with an off-road car is the best option here. 

Safarak’s drivers come from all around the world, 

each offering a unique perspective on life in the 

UAE. But wherever they come from, the drivers 

are friendly, welcoming, knowledgeable about the 

hidden gems in the Emirate, and they care about their guests. 

Ras Al Khaimah is a unique and exhilarating addition to the 

tourism landscape of the Middle East that deserves to be on 

everyone’s bucket list in 2017. The Emirate doesn’t have the glitz 

and glamour of neighbouring Dubai, its miniscule airport doesn’t 

attract hordes of tourists like those in Dubai and Abu Dhabi, and it 

doesn’t have the overtly western culture that many fellow Gulf 

States are developing, but what RAK is lacking it certainly makes up 

for in the spectacular attractions that it does have. What more could 

anyone ask for? RAK has enough sand dunes at one end to last a 

lifetime, tall enough mountains to pass the time for a few days at 

least, and a growing supply of luxury hotels and authentic Middle 

Eastern restaurants to choose from; there is sure to be something 

different to discover every time you visit! 

Ras Al Khaimah is not a stop off city on the way to somewhere 

more interesting, it is an end destination, bringing together over 

7,000 years of history and more unique experiences than all the 

other Emirates combined. RAK is beyond a journey. 

Words by Joe Worthington 

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RAK - In the Footsteps of Bedouin

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