Souk Style - F&T Nov 2016

Souk
style
What to buy in the
world’s best Souks
The Middle East is famous for its mystical
souks, where tantalising smells lure
visitors deeper into the mesmerising
lanes and alleyways of these historic
marketplaces, where a confusing concoction of
bright golds, oranges, greens, and blues flash
by like a mirage, and boisterous sounds of
people haggling thunder through the narrow
streets of these centres of commerce.
Join Joe Worthington on a journey through
the most exciting souks in the Middle East and
North Africa and follow in the footsteps of
millions of bargain hunters through centuries
gone by. As we delve into these havens of
spices, traditional clothing, jewellery and
antiques we will discover both famous and not
so famous treasures to hunt for whilst getting
lost in these confusing mazes. Sometimes it’s
good to let go of your inhibitions and just follow
everyone else. What’s the worst that could
happen? We could find something new that
would look great as a centrepiece on our dining
room table. Or we could find a new recipe to
take home a show-off to friends and family.
Grand Bazaar, Istanbul
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FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

MUSCAT, OMAN – MUTTRAH SOUK
Muscat’s Muttrah Souk may not be as famous as some of the other markets in the
region, partly because of its location away from the glitz and glamour of Dubai or the
proximity to Europe or Morocco, but it is no less impressive than its more famous
neighbours. Staying low-key has allowed Muscat’s souk to keep its centuries old
heritage and unique culture; and most importantly, traditional gifts and wares have
not been taken over by cheap Asian imports. The Muttrah Souk has an authenticity
that just has to be discovered.
When you first arrive at the grand entrance to the souk, complete with its Islamic-style
domed staircase, you would be forgiven for thinking that the souk is tiny because you
can see from one end to the other through the roofed walkway. However, there are
tens, if not hundreds, of small disconcerting alleyways overflowing with an intoxicating
array of small stalls, cafes and obscure meeting areas. Local Omani men can be seen
doing their weekly shop in the market, dressed in clean white dishdasha and neatly
wrapped colourful masar on their heads.
There are thousands of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered deep inside
Muttrah, the most impressive of which has to be an Omani khanjar, a Bedouin
ceremonial dagger in a hook shape. Before the beloved Sultan Qaboos came to
power only royals were permitted to wear these, but now Omani men can often be
seen with them hanging from their waists. There are stalls hidden in the souk selling
these daggers, some made from golds and silvers, and some from coppers and
brass. There are even shopkeepers who can design the khanjar especially for the
wearer and have them delivered within a few weeks. Look out for these expertly
shaped daggers with their intricately carved designs on the sheath and try to haggle
for the best price.
Oman is also famous for its frankincense, an aromatic resin or oil that can be
added to perfumes and bath products. These nuggets of yellow or green resin are
famed across Oman for their medicinal properties, including as an indigestion aid,
a flu reliever, and a scar or acne remedy. You might not be familiar with this truly
Middle Eastern miracle cure, but the stall owners are. Just follow your nose; follow
the unfamiliar scent and you will find.
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MARRAKESH, MOROCCO – DJEMAA EL-FNA
Djemaa El-Fna, North Africa’s synonymous souk is also possibly the
world’s most famous marketplace. This hot, smelly and crowded
souk in the middle of Marrakesh is a common feature in every
brochure advertising Morocco, along with its packed rows of bright
spices in baskets, steaming pots of Moroccan mint tea, and red fez
hats hanging from shop walls. There is nowhere else on earth quite
like Djemma El-Fna, Morocco’s well-known gem.
Set in the old medina of Marrakesh, this symbol of Berber
traditions is a cacophony of storytellers, musicians and performers
competing to attract the attention of visitors. The place really comes
alive at night; this is when the food stalls selling everything from
camel stew to steamed snails come alive, and when traditional
snake charmers and monkey handlers come out. The smells of
cooking food and shisha smoke combine to create a confusing
haze as the sun sets over the towering minaret of the Koutoubia
Mosque.
When you set off to explore this confusing system of tall walled
lanes and streets you simply cannot avoid basket after basket full of
brightly coloured spices and herbs. Sourcing the most fragrant and
best tasting spice is to be recommended on a visit to Djemma El-
Fna. Haggle for cinnamon, cloves, mint and chilli with the seemingly
endless array of stallholders with a wide variety to choose from.
Baskets filled with dates and mint leaves are also to be found in
abundance, and here’s why.
ISTANBUL, TURKEY – GRAND BAZAAR
Istanbul’s huge Grand Bazaar is one of the world’s oldest indoor
markets, first opened in 1461, and it sells everything that you could
ever want, ranging from knock-off designer clothing, traditional Turkish
memorabilia, Ottoman antiques, and the latest technology. Travel
writers and explorers have been writing about the bazaar for centuries,
including in the 17th century when Europeans detailed the town-like
design of the market. There were reportedly 67 roads, 7 fountains, 5
mosques, and 18 entry gates inside the bazaar, many of which still
exist in some form to this day – although an earthquake in 1894
destroyed much of the structure.
There are roads of market stalls lining the impressively carved building,
each road with a specific concentration of goods. There are roads of
jewellers and gold on Kalpakcılar Caddesi, furniture along Divrikli
Caddesi, carpets on Sahaflar Caddesi, leather goods along Perdahçılar
Caddesi, and modern designer clothes on Bit Pazarı. The Grand Bazaar
is a great place to try your hand at haggling because the sellers overprice
their wares, often by more than double the cost price.
One of the most popular souvenirs that visitors to the Grand Bazaar
search for is a traditional Turkish Eye called a Nazar, a mythical blue
eye coloured pendant that comes in the form as a necklace, bracelet,
keyring, or photo. Tradition dictates that the amulet protects the owner
from the “evil eye”, an ancient legend in which an evil glare from an
enemy causes misfortune and injury. Whether or not you believe the
legend, the eye makes for a great souvenir to take home as a
memento of your visit to Istanbul and its Grand Bazaar.
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FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

CAIRO, EGYPT – KHAN EL-KHALILI
Cairo’s ancient souk is quite possibly the world’s oldest marketplace
still in existence, surviving invasions from Persians, bombardments
from Ottomans, riots and coups over its 11 century lifespan. The souk
is at the heart of the Islamic district of the city, between al-Mu’izz Street
and the Al-Azhar Mosque, and has been the focus of both the
commercial and social lives of Egyptians for almost as long as the city
has existed.
At night the market takes on a new life. Dimly lit alleyways shrouded
in shadows in the flickering candlelight and caverns full of souvenirs
and antiques create an eerie atmosphere amongst the 16th century
carved stone gates and dome-like walls. Every corner of the souk has
been taken by sellers, some catering for tourists and others locals.
Nothing symbolises the Arab world more than the hectic haggling and
echoes of Arabic bouncing between the walls that at Khan el-Khalili.
Fabric production has been the mainstay of the Egyptian economy
for millennia, so what better souvenir to buy than a hand produced
shawl or Egyptian cotton bed cover. Egyptian cotton is world
renowned for its smooth feel and high quality, and it comes in almost
every colour imaginable. Look out for hundreds of towels hanging
from racks in hidden stalls and try to haggle for your favourite. It’s also
worth searching for papyrus artefacts, they may not be authentically
ancient Egyptian, but they make good gifts nonetheless.
You can’t visit Egypt’s oldest souk without hunting for some
ancient Egyptian artefacts, be they thousands of years old or just a
few weeks old. There are lots of tourist oriented stalls selling all
manner of sphinx and sarcophagus statues, but the most eagle
eyed shoppers could spot some genuine local antiques. Expect to
pay a high price for anything genuine though as the sellers are well
aware of what they are selling.
Shopping in souks is an eye opening experience that gives
visitors a true insight into the life of locals in a city. Souks are
traditionally where locals come to gossip, meet friends, and do
their weekly shop. They are also a haven of hidden treasures just
waiting to be discovered, just don’t forget to take some smaller
value notes with you when you go out to explore these mystifying
mazes of commerce.
Clockwise from above: Djemaa El-Fna; Grand bazaar interior; Khan el-Khalili exterior; Khan el-Khalili lamp shop; Khan el-Khalili vegetable; Grand
bazaar pottery; Djemaa El-Fna Marakesh snake charmer; Djemaa El-Fna spices
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