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MUSCAT, OMAN – MUTTRAH SOUK<br />
Muscat’s Muttrah <strong>Souk</strong> may not be as famous as some of the other markets in the<br />
region, partly because of its location away from the glitz and glamour of Dubai or the<br />
proximity to Europe or Morocco, but it is no less impressive than its more famous<br />
neighbours. Staying low-key has allowed Muscat’s souk to keep its centuries old<br />
heritage and unique culture; and most importantly, traditional gifts and wares have<br />
not been taken over by cheap Asian imports. The Muttrah <strong>Souk</strong> has an authenticity<br />
that just has to be discovered.<br />
When you first arrive at the grand entrance to the souk, complete with its Islamic-style<br />
domed staircase, you would be forgiven for thinking that the souk is tiny because you<br />
can see from one end to the other through the roofed walkway. However, there are<br />
tens, if not hundreds, of small disconcerting alleyways overflowing with an intoxicating<br />
array of small stalls, cafes and obscure meeting areas. Local Omani men can be seen<br />
doing their weekly shop in the market, dressed in clean white dishdasha and neatly<br />
wrapped colourful masar on their heads.<br />
There are thousands of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered deep inside<br />
Muttrah, the most impressive of which has to be an Omani khanjar, a Bedouin<br />
ceremonial dagger in a hook shape. Before the beloved Sultan Qaboos came to<br />
power only royals were permitted to wear these, but now Omani men can often be<br />
seen with them hanging from their waists. There are stalls hidden in the souk selling<br />
these daggers, some made from golds and silvers, and some from coppers and<br />
brass. There are even shopkeepers who can design the khanjar especially for the<br />
wearer and have them delivered within a few weeks. Look out for these expertly<br />
shaped daggers with their intricately carved designs on the sheath and try to haggle<br />
for the best price.<br />
Oman is also famous for its frankincense, an aromatic resin or oil that can be<br />
added to perfumes and bath products. These nuggets of yellow or green resin are<br />
famed across Oman for their medicinal properties, including as an indigestion aid,<br />
a flu reliever, and a scar or acne remedy. You might not be familiar with this truly<br />
Middle Eastern miracle cure, but the stall owners are. Just follow your nose; follow<br />
the unfamiliar scent and you will find.<br />
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 55