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Souk Style - F&T Nov 2016

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MUSCAT, OMAN – MUTTRAH SOUK<br />

Muscat’s Muttrah <strong>Souk</strong> may not be as famous as some of the other markets in the<br />

region, partly because of its location away from the glitz and glamour of Dubai or the<br />

proximity to Europe or Morocco, but it is no less impressive than its more famous<br />

neighbours. Staying low-key has allowed Muscat’s souk to keep its centuries old<br />

heritage and unique culture; and most importantly, traditional gifts and wares have<br />

not been taken over by cheap Asian imports. The Muttrah <strong>Souk</strong> has an authenticity<br />

that just has to be discovered.<br />

When you first arrive at the grand entrance to the souk, complete with its Islamic-style<br />

domed staircase, you would be forgiven for thinking that the souk is tiny because you<br />

can see from one end to the other through the roofed walkway. However, there are<br />

tens, if not hundreds, of small disconcerting alleyways overflowing with an intoxicating<br />

array of small stalls, cafes and obscure meeting areas. Local Omani men can be seen<br />

doing their weekly shop in the market, dressed in clean white dishdasha and neatly<br />

wrapped colourful masar on their heads.<br />

There are thousands of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered deep inside<br />

Muttrah, the most impressive of which has to be an Omani khanjar, a Bedouin<br />

ceremonial dagger in a hook shape. Before the beloved Sultan Qaboos came to<br />

power only royals were permitted to wear these, but now Omani men can often be<br />

seen with them hanging from their waists. There are stalls hidden in the souk selling<br />

these daggers, some made from golds and silvers, and some from coppers and<br />

brass. There are even shopkeepers who can design the khanjar especially for the<br />

wearer and have them delivered within a few weeks. Look out for these expertly<br />

shaped daggers with their intricately carved designs on the sheath and try to haggle<br />

for the best price.<br />

Oman is also famous for its frankincense, an aromatic resin or oil that can be<br />

added to perfumes and bath products. These nuggets of yellow or green resin are<br />

famed across Oman for their medicinal properties, including as an indigestion aid,<br />

a flu reliever, and a scar or acne remedy. You might not be familiar with this truly<br />

Middle Eastern miracle cure, but the stall owners are. Just follow your nose; follow<br />

the unfamiliar scent and you will find.<br />

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 55

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