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Souk Style - F&T Nov 2016

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MARRAKESH, MOROCCO – DJEMAA EL-FNA<br />

Djemaa El-Fna, North Africa’s synonymous souk is also possibly the<br />

world’s most famous marketplace. This hot, smelly and crowded<br />

souk in the middle of Marrakesh is a common feature in every<br />

brochure advertising Morocco, along with its packed rows of bright<br />

spices in baskets, steaming pots of Moroccan mint tea, and red fez<br />

hats hanging from shop walls. There is nowhere else on earth quite<br />

like Djemma El-Fna, Morocco’s well-known gem.<br />

Set in the old medina of Marrakesh, this symbol of Berber<br />

traditions is a cacophony of storytellers, musicians and performers<br />

competing to attract the attention of visitors. The place really comes<br />

alive at night; this is when the food stalls selling everything from<br />

camel stew to steamed snails come alive, and when traditional<br />

snake charmers and monkey handlers come out. The smells of<br />

cooking food and shisha smoke combine to create a confusing<br />

haze as the sun sets over the towering minaret of the Koutoubia<br />

Mosque.<br />

When you set off to explore this confusing system of tall walled<br />

lanes and streets you simply cannot avoid basket after basket full of<br />

brightly coloured spices and herbs. Sourcing the most fragrant and<br />

best tasting spice is to be recommended on a visit to Djemma El-<br />

Fna. Haggle for cinnamon, cloves, mint and chilli with the seemingly<br />

endless array of stallholders with a wide variety to choose from.<br />

Baskets filled with dates and mint leaves are also to be found in<br />

abundance, and here’s why.<br />

ISTANBUL, TURKEY – GRAND BAZAAR<br />

Istanbul’s huge Grand Bazaar is one of the world’s oldest indoor<br />

markets, first opened in 1461, and it sells everything that you could<br />

ever want, ranging from knock-off designer clothing, traditional Turkish<br />

memorabilia, Ottoman antiques, and the latest technology. Travel<br />

writers and explorers have been writing about the bazaar for centuries,<br />

including in the 17th century when Europeans detailed the town-like<br />

design of the market. There were reportedly 67 roads, 7 fountains, 5<br />

mosques, and 18 entry gates inside the bazaar, many of which still<br />

exist in some form to this day – although an earthquake in 1894<br />

destroyed much of the structure.<br />

There are roads of market stalls lining the impressively carved building,<br />

each road with a specific concentration of goods. There are roads of<br />

jewellers and gold on Kalpakcılar Caddesi, furniture along Divrikli<br />

Caddesi, carpets on Sahaflar Caddesi, leather goods along Perdahçılar<br />

Caddesi, and modern designer clothes on Bit Pazarı. The Grand Bazaar<br />

is a great place to try your hand at haggling because the sellers overprice<br />

their wares, often by more than double the cost price.<br />

One of the most popular souvenirs that visitors to the Grand Bazaar<br />

search for is a traditional Turkish Eye called a Nazar, a mythical blue<br />

eye coloured pendant that comes in the form as a necklace, bracelet,<br />

keyring, or photo. Tradition dictates that the amulet protects the owner<br />

from the “evil eye”, an ancient legend in which an evil glare from an<br />

enemy causes misfortune and injury. Whether or not you believe the<br />

legend, the eye makes for a great souvenir to take home as a<br />

memento of your visit to Istanbul and its Grand Bazaar.<br />

56<br />

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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