Souk Style - F&T Nov 2016

CAIRO, EGYPT – KHAN EL-KHALILI
Cairo’s ancient souk is quite possibly the world’s oldest marketplace
still in existence, surviving invasions from Persians, bombardments
from Ottomans, riots and coups over its 11 century lifespan. The souk
is at the heart of the Islamic district of the city, between al-Mu’izz Street
and the Al-Azhar Mosque, and has been the focus of both the
commercial and social lives of Egyptians for almost as long as the city
has existed.
At night the market takes on a new life. Dimly lit alleyways shrouded
in shadows in the flickering candlelight and caverns full of souvenirs
and antiques create an eerie atmosphere amongst the 16th century
carved stone gates and dome-like walls. Every corner of the souk has
been taken by sellers, some catering for tourists and others locals.
Nothing symbolises the Arab world more than the hectic haggling and
echoes of Arabic bouncing between the walls that at Khan el-Khalili.
Fabric production has been the mainstay of the Egyptian economy
for millennia, so what better souvenir to buy than a hand produced
shawl or Egyptian cotton bed cover. Egyptian cotton is world
renowned for its smooth feel and high quality, and it comes in almost
every colour imaginable. Look out for hundreds of towels hanging
from racks in hidden stalls and try to haggle for your favourite. It’s also
worth searching for papyrus artefacts, they may not be authentically
ancient Egyptian, but they make good gifts nonetheless.
You can’t visit Egypt’s oldest souk without hunting for some
ancient Egyptian artefacts, be they thousands of years old or just a
few weeks old. There are lots of tourist oriented stalls selling all
manner of sphinx and sarcophagus statues, but the most eagle
eyed shoppers could spot some genuine local antiques. Expect to
pay a high price for anything genuine though as the sellers are well
aware of what they are selling.
Shopping in souks is an eye opening experience that gives
visitors a true insight into the life of locals in a city. Souks are
traditionally where locals come to gossip, meet friends, and do
their weekly shop. They are also a haven of hidden treasures just
waiting to be discovered, just don’t forget to take some smaller
value notes with you when you go out to explore these mystifying
mazes of commerce.
Clockwise from above: Djemaa El-Fna; Grand bazaar interior; Khan el-Khalili exterior; Khan el-Khalili lamp shop; Khan el-Khalili vegetable; Grand
bazaar pottery; Djemaa El-Fna Marakesh snake charmer; Djemaa El-Fna spices
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 57