“Old buildings’ construction is rarely in a perfect condition, may have a limited life and is often different from what we would choose.” moves (e.g. with moisture, prolonged loading, tree roots, vibration from traffic). If you’re thinking of extending, therefore, remember to accommodate ground movement. Under old buildings, it has been loaded, so has settled, over many years. Under new buildings, it’s still settling, so, when new extensions are keyed into old buildings, differential settlement can tear the two apart. To prevent this, new extensions should be tied across movement joints so they can slide down as the ground compresses under its new load. Unless so accommodated, even half a centimetre of movement can initiate a lot of damage. Similarly, as cement is inflexible, cement-bonded repairs introduce localised rigidity, which often causes cracks – into which rain enters, but can’t get out. Another difference between cement- and lime-mortar is moisture-diffusion rate: lime absorbs water a bit faster than cement but dries out much faster. Most pre-1930 buildings have solid walls. Lime-mortar lets these dampen with rain, then dry out. Cement-mortar repairs, however, mean they can’t dry fast enough, and only do so through the bricks, eventually destroying them. Vapour-impermeable masonry paint has a similar destructive effect. Whatever a solid wall is built of, however, driving rain can penetrate through the tiniest of cracks and leave it wet all winter. Rain-shields (e.g. slate-hanging, timber boarding) over such walls can easily remedy this. These must be rear-ventilated so that condensation dampness (and leakage) can dry out. After 1930, cavity wall construction and cement mortars became the norm, although some post-war buildings experimented with solid concrete or concrete panels. From about 1950, breezeblock inner leaves became common, and (because breezeblock is lighter than concrete block) also interior partitions. Although considered to be an insulation material, breezeblock is actually a very poor insulator. It’s also radioactive (being made from foundry waste) and too crumbly to fix handrails on to. Insulation blocks came next (and from 1985 were normally required by building regulations): these are more insulating but also too weak to anchor handrails, and most kinds are from similar foundry waste sources, so are also radioactive. Being in the form of radon gas, this radioactivity caused little problem when houses were draughty, but it isn’t something you want in an airtight house. The breezeblock interior partitions are easy to demolish, but the exterior walls’ inner leaf is part of the structure. This leaves you with a choice: seal the wall’s interior surface (and accept loss of its moisture-moderating capability); build an additional solid-block inner leaf (good for thermal stability but shrinking room size); increase ventilation rate to well above PassivHaus levels (but not enough to be draughty); or buy another house. Before the mid-twentieth century, most roofs had attics. Although sometimes obstructed by A-frame trusses, most have enough space to use for storage or as sleeping lofts. Many are big enough to use as rooms – hence the fashion for loft conversions. Trussed rafters, however, became common from the 1960s and 1970s. These fill the roof-space, rendering it unusable without major restructuring. Moreover, as they’re made of flimsy timber sections gang-nailed together, they’re prone to failure if notched or damaged. Chipboard floors also date from this era and, like trussed rafters, are still used. These give off formaldehyde, which is a health risk. Most more recent (British) houses have tiny rooms. If you want larger (but fewer and multi-function) rooms, it’s worth measuring floor depths. Are joists (floor depth less 30-38mm) sufficiently deep to span between external or party walls? If so, you can demolish partition walls to improve layout. If not, you can still demolish partitions, but will need to support floors with beams, and probably posts as well – or just put up with small rooms. Recently built houses also typically contain many more VOC-emitting substances than twentieth-century houses. Being new, these are emitting at peak volume. As you’ve paid for all this plastic and glue, you may feel disinclined to rip it out. Or perhaps this is another type of house not to buy? Most older buildings were well built, with better quality timber than that available today. In Britain, however, few were insulated, and, although minuscule insulation requirements appeared after the war and increased in the 1970s, 1985 and 1995, hardly any were insulated to current (2006 regulations) low-energy standards. Most old buildings were also draughty. Additionally, few were rodent-proof. Typically, therefore, they’re solidly built but cold, often damp and sometimes pest-infested. Moreover, many have suffered depredations from time (including rot and woodworm) and bodging by ill-informed ‘improvers’. Also, with age, lots of little things that we don’t normally think of tend to wear out (e.g. lead flashings crack), roof tiles embrittle, brass plumbing fittings de-zincify, water pipes corrode...). Like old cars, once you fix one thing, another needs attention – an unending process. Nonetheless, old houses are usually cheaper to buy, often have more character than new ones – and generally were more soundly built. If there are structural faults, therefore, it’s worth asking “why?” What has changed since they were built? Keypoints • Buildings from different times were built differently, using different materials • Repairs will cause damage to pre-1930s buildings if they dont take account of this • Lime-mortar-built solid walls dampen with rain, then dry out. Don’t hinder this breathability by using cement or vapourimpermeable paint This extract from The Eco-Home Design Guide by Christopher Day was printed by kind permission of Green Books. Order your copy, for £24.99, from www.greenbooks.co.uk. Use the code WEALDEN30 for 30% off and free UK p&p for purchases from the Green Books website until the end of <strong>February</strong>. • Few older buildings were insulated, and most were draighty. Many have suffered depredations from time and bodging • Before draught-proofing, evaluate radon (and other toxic gas) risks • Extensions should allow for differential settlement with movement joints. They must not be keyed in • Most structural faults are due to changed circumstances wealdentimes.co.uk 68
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