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Burma RJ Handbook

A handbook for travellers in Burma, by Paul Strachan.

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A BU R M A R I V E R J O U R N E Y<br />

ingly unegotistical. Great kings raised momuments that<br />

w e re technically in advance of contemporay Euro p e a n<br />

cathedrals yet told us nothing about themselves. In their<br />

brief, matter of fact, dedicatory inscriptions they rare l y<br />

boast of wealth or power but rather humbly prey for salvation<br />

for themselves, their subjects and all mankind. In<br />

contemporay Cambodia kings were gods and the centers<br />

of meglamanial cults, living in temple palaces. At Pagan<br />

we do not even know where they lived and all we know of<br />

g reat 12th century kings like Sithu I, who reigned for 30<br />

years, consolidated the empire and completed the gre a t<br />

work of nation wide religious purification, and built the<br />

stupendous That-byin-nyu temple, is his name.<br />

By the erection of the Myazedi inscription in 1113 the<br />

Myanma or Burmese language has come to posess a script<br />

of its own and this is used alongside the ancient religious<br />

language of Pali, and the old languages of Pyu and Mon.<br />

During the early period of Pagan, Mon culture seems to<br />

have been the dominant literary language and is used to<br />

caption paintings in the early temples. By the early 12th<br />

century Old Burmese replaces Mon in popularity. The<br />

Burmese had arrived at a confident expression both in literature<br />

and the visual arts, not to mention structural engineering.<br />

The principal architectural forms, monuments<br />

and periods will be described below.<br />

We know little of kings and the political life and we<br />

know little of the extent and manner in which the empire<br />

was administered. It is curious that there are few monuments<br />

beyond the Pagan plain area but this does not necessarily<br />

mean that the city was highly populated. Rather<br />

as a centre of revenue collection it became a centre for religious<br />

expenditure. Beyond the walls and moat of the<br />

palace-city area were a number of village-like quarters<br />

solely occupied by a particular artisan group. Thus there<br />

w e re villages of wood carvers, brick makers or stucco<br />

workers. The inscriptions detail glebe lands and estates<br />

often far away that supported the maintenance of fabric<br />

13

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