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Burma RJ Handbook

A handbook for travellers in Burma, by Paul Strachan.

A handbook for travellers in Burma, by Paul Strachan.

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A BU R M A R I V E R J O U R N E Y<br />

not just to profit, but perhaps to prod the Burmese into<br />

getting their miracle right.<br />

By the mid-nineties the holocaust of 1988 was, if not<br />

forgiven, at least forgotten. Ordinary Burmese were prospering<br />

and with the prospect of improvement recent evils<br />

seemed to fade from memory. Passports were available<br />

and Burmese could come and go returning with ideas and<br />

ideals from the outside world. Long term exiles returned<br />

to start businesses and bring home rare expertise.<br />

Rangoon’s foreign expatriate community had grown from<br />

a tiny diplomatic corps to the point where house re n t s<br />

w e re higher than in London. The fear that one found in<br />

1989 or 1990 seemed to have dissipated as people were<br />

busy ‘doing business’.<br />

With a relaxation of trade restrictions previously unavailable<br />

imported goods appeared in the markets and<br />

t h e re is no doubt that the quality of life improved for<br />

many Burmese. The decrepit infrastructure was upgraded:<br />

new buses carried people and goods to markets along new<br />

roads; electric pumps saved women hours of carrying<br />

water; improved rolling stock brought cities closer; new<br />

aircraft landed on new airports; piped water and sewage<br />

systems were installed in Rangoon and Mandalay; a telephone<br />

network with IDD lines introduced — there were<br />

even cell phones for the new ‘yuppy’ class — and <strong>Burma</strong><br />

was at last wired to the world. These were not just cosmetic<br />

changes but fundamental improvements and managed<br />

without a cent of aid. Improved infrastru c t u re and<br />

communications will greatly assist the Burmese people in<br />

the eventual transition to democracy.<br />

Perhaps the greatest success story was the pacification<br />

of <strong>Burma</strong> in most cases by non violent means. Between<br />

Independence in 1947 and the late 80s Rangoon had<br />

fought several campaigns on several fronts which rapidly<br />

depleted the country’s re s o u rces. Firstly the communist<br />

rank and file mutinied, and the predominantly Wa hillmen<br />

went over to the Slorc. The Kachin Independence Army<br />

39

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