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8 P's Of Luxury Brand Marketing - Brandchannel

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8 P’s of <strong>Luxury</strong> <strong>Brand</strong> <strong>Marketing</strong><br />

Rohit Arora, Strategic Planning Director, Bates Pan Gulf (BPG Group), Dubai, UAE<br />

“I think every girl deep inside dreams about having the money to be able to buy the Louis Vuitton bag<br />

or being at the red carpet herself and wear a beautiful Chanel dress” - Qualitative research, UAE, 2010.<br />

<strong>Luxury</strong> brands have always been a fascinating space and luxury brand marketing one of the most complicated ones.<br />

So, going by the above consumer quote, this paper attempts to decode what makes Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton;<br />

Chanel, Chanel – in simple words what makes a luxury brand desirable? What are the ingredients/components that<br />

make up a luxury brand?<br />

Is it the physical / functional attributes like the product quality, craftsmanship, design, technology? As one<br />

respondent in one of the qualitative research in UAE said “When you buy something with really high-quality, you<br />

can genuinely feel the difference. It is in the touch, the feel of the material; it’s in the smoothness, it’s in its minute<br />

details...”<br />

Or is it the self-asserting emotional stimulation of letting the others know that I’ve arrived & I have a penchant for<br />

finer things in life not common to many? A respondent said “I bought my BMW, just to keep my key on the table<br />

during the meeting.” Another respondent said “If I stop at a signal I feel I will attract attention of people”.<br />

Or is it that luxury brands are just the stepladder to move to the right circle or an appropriate thing to have or wear<br />

in that circle? A respondent said “There is a proverb which says if you wear nice shoes you enter nice place”.<br />

3 MOTIVATIONS - SELF ASSERTION, DIFFERENTIATION AND GENUINE APPRECIATION FOR PRODUCT EXCELLENCE:<br />

In my assessment, by-and-large the above are the three major motivators that drive people to desire and acquire<br />

luxury brands. That said, it’s important to acknowledge that they are not mutually exclusive.<br />

Exclusivity has always been connected to luxury brands. But from the consumer’s perspective the definition of<br />

exclusivity goes through an evolution. At the early stage, having the ability or affluence to own a luxury brand<br />

desirable and recognizable by everyone is exclusivity. It is a means by which consumers assert themselves - whether<br />

it is to fit-in or simply to make a statement.<br />

As the consumer moves on and with more people joining the ‘ownership’ circle, just owning a recognizable symbol<br />

is not enough – the new need to “differentiate” sets in to further confirm their social status and to stand-out among<br />

the equals. The source of exclusivity, then, can manifest in form of acquiring limited editions or something with<br />

extraordinary product capabilities or rare materials, craftsmanship; it can also be driven by brand’s distinctive<br />

personality or simply the knowledge of the brand legacy. One can also observe that people who seek differentiation<br />

tend to have larger repertoire of luxury brands, have a choice of not-so-common luxury brands, have a definitive<br />

reason for their choice and sometime even prefer to stick to specialist brands. Few of the consumer quotes (below)<br />

from various quantitative researches in UAE emphasize this point:<br />

“I prefer to buy my watch from an expert watch-brand, not a fashion label.”<br />

“I like things that are exclusive and specialized like the really top suit brands …and ties. You know, where one tie is<br />

the price of a good Armani suit, but that you’ll only find in Italy, only at one location and not in any branches<br />

anywhere else in the world. That’s like once in a while you want to buy something that’s special and wear it a few<br />

times on specific occasions.”<br />

While genuine appreciation for product excellent needs no explanation, as mentioned earlier it is not mutually<br />

exclusive. In simple words, it does not mean that people who acquire luxury brands for either asserting-self or<br />

differentiation have no appreciation and love for beautiful products. But, then there are others who buy luxury<br />

without having any baggage of what others think. They buy it because they genuinely love the physical / functional<br />

attributes that the product delivers or because they find a profound connection with the brand / the brand story.


The bottom line is that whether it is self assertion, differentiation or genuine appreciation for product excellence,<br />

these stories and the aura that surrounds the brands is what makes luxury brands desirable. Packaged as the 8 P’s<br />

of luxury brand marketing, this paper attempts to bring together the elements and interplay between them that are<br />

employed in the luxury brand marketing mix. Some of the elements have been named to fit the 8P packaging and<br />

therefore, my humble request to readers will be to take the broad-point made versus getting stuck in semantics.<br />

Yet, another point important to acknowledge is that the degree of significance of these elements may vary from<br />

brand-to-brand and market-to-market. The point-of-view of this paper is more that of a practitioner, than a<br />

theoretician.<br />

THE 8 P’S – PILLARS OF LUXURY BRAND MARKETING:<br />

PERFORMANCE:<br />

Performance refers to the delivery of superior experience of a luxury brand at two levels – first, at a product level<br />

and second, at an experiential level.<br />

At a product level, fundamentally it must satisfy the functional and utilitarian characteristic as well as deliver on its<br />

practical physical attributes – a recipe of quality or design excellence ingredients like craftsmanship, precision,<br />

materials, high quality, unique design, extraordinary product capabilities, technology & innovation. For example:<br />

On their 70th anniversary,<br />

Patek Philippe unveiled a<br />

new complicated<br />

wristwatch. Along with a<br />

unique column wheel<br />

chronograph movement,<br />

the day and month appear<br />

in a double window at 12<br />

o’clock, with a hand<br />

indicating the date around<br />

the moon phase. The leap<br />

year is displayed in a small<br />

round window at 4:30<br />

opposite a matching<br />

window for the day/night display at 7:30.<br />

Like all the brand’s grand complications, it has two<br />

interchangeable backs - one in sapphire crystal that<br />

reveals the movement complexity and the elegance of<br />

its finishing, the other, a white gold solid back that can<br />

be personalized with a dedication or an engraving.<br />

Omega Speedmaster Chronograph – the moon watch:<br />

Selection by NASA, a walk<br />

in space in 1965 and since<br />

1969 six mission to the<br />

moon is what makes this<br />

series with extraordinary<br />

capabilities. After it<br />

became a life-saving<br />

instrument during the<br />

Apollo 13 mission, the<br />

Speedmaster went on to<br />

become a symbol of peace,<br />

as both American & Soviet<br />

astronauts wore it in the<br />

first joint space-mission<br />

during the cold war. It<br />

never left the Space<br />

Program as it still the only<br />

watch certified by NASA for<br />

all EVAs (Extra-Vehicular<br />

Activities).<br />

A luxury brand must perform at an experiential level as well, i.e. the emotional value of the brand the consumers<br />

buy into – beyond what the product is to what it represents. For example: Rolex stands of symbol of heroic<br />

achievement & Tiffany is a symbol of love and beauty.


PEDIGREE:<br />

Many luxury brands have a rich pedigree and extraordinary history that turn in to an inseparable part of the brand’s<br />

mystique. This mystique is generally built around the exceptional legendary founder character of the past, making<br />

up an integral part of the brand story and brand personality.<br />

So, when consumers buy say a Cartier or a Chanel product - it is not only because of the product performance<br />

factor, but subconsciously they are also influenced by the brand’s rich lineage, heritage and the years of mastery.<br />

Coco Chanel started her business in<br />

1913 and within a few decades,<br />

became a revolutionary couturier.<br />

Karl Lagerfeld took the helm<br />

in the 1980s and has been<br />

modernizing the brand ever<br />

since.<br />

Gucci opened the doors of its own museum in Florence to<br />

mark the completion of the house's 90th-anniversary<br />

celebration.<br />

PAUCITY:<br />

With Chanel Coco Mademoiselle campaigns<br />

in 1981, 2008, 2009 & the recent 2011,<br />

Chanel has continuously leveraged its<br />

pedigree / brand mystique.<br />

Similarly, Rolls-Royce celebrated the 100th anniversary of its<br />

iconic emblem, the Spirit of Ecstasy with '100 cars for 100 years'<br />

and featured a collection of Rolls-Royce models, supplied by<br />

members of the Rolls-Royce Enthusiasts' Club, dating back to 1911<br />

Over-revelation-and-distribution of luxury brand can cause dilution of luxury character, hence many brands try to<br />

maintain the perception that the goods are scarce. Case in point - Burberry diluted its brand image in the UK in the<br />

early 2000s by over-licensing its brand, thus reducing its image as a brand whose products were consumed only by<br />

the elite. Gucci, now largely sold in directly-owned stores, following a nearly crippling attempt to widely license<br />

their brand in the 1970s and 1980s.<br />

Broadly, there’s natural paucity (the actual scarcity), the technology-led paucity and the tactical- driven paucity.<br />

Natural paucity is triggered by scarce ingredients like platinum, diamonds, etc. and/or those goods that require<br />

exceptional human expertise, for example handcrafted quality that constraints the mass production.


Technology-driven paucity is as a result of conception-time involved in continuous innovation and research-&development<br />

process.<br />

Tactical- driven paucity are more promotional in nature such as the limited editions or the special series to<br />

generate artificial desire and demand. Another deviation within this is the customization of luxury good, e.g. Garson<br />

USA custom made a diamond-encrusted Mercedes SL600 for Prince Al-Waleed bin Talal of Saudi Arabia in 2007.<br />

PERSONA:<br />

The persona of a luxury brand is largely a result of – first, its distinctive projection plus coherence of its applications<br />

across consumer touch-points and second, the brand communication through its advertising.<br />

The visual brand identity captures the brand’s personality, mystique & emotional values in a nutshell. The distinct<br />

and consistent orchestration of the identity is central to establishing the visibility, familiarity & common identifiable<br />

brand imagery. The visual brand orchestration can manifest by way of its coherent application of its identity, the<br />

brand color(s), the other design elements like icons, the uniquely identifiable design, branded environment and<br />

even the tone-of-voice.


While the luxury brand’s visual identity is a fairly stable factor, luxury brand advertising is a more dynamic and<br />

versatile marketing vehicle. While the pedigree of the brand has its role, keeping-up the contemporary-appeal and<br />

the newness-factor is crucial for enduring brand relevance. Therefore, luxury advertising not only needs to generate<br />

the desire for the seasonal collection, but at the same time it must also enhance the brand’s cool-quotient, thereby<br />

making it continuously desirable and aspirational.<br />

At an overall level, luxury advertising messages can be<br />

observed:<br />

� As more emotional and sensual to distance it<br />

from mass-premium brands<br />

� Create a world and an aura that is truly<br />

exceptional to their brand signature<br />

� Generate major differentiation in its production<br />

and execution<br />

One of the relatively new trends within luxury brand communication is the use of the long-form-commercials or the<br />

short-film-videos to generate interest with the online audience. It is clearly a pursuit where luxury brands are<br />

looking to bridge the gap between the familiar world of print and the fast-evolving world of online. It has also<br />

proved impactful as in a matter of few minutes, the viewer can have a clear understanding of the brand image or<br />

the story the brand is trying to convey or simply promotion of the new collection.<br />

The short-flash-videos at Montblanc<br />

website focuses on its craftsmanship legacy:<br />

http://bit.ly/uiSQ8F<br />

Louis Vuitton created a 3-minute<br />

thematic video for its ‘journey’<br />

campaign.<br />

http://youtu.be/NQlueM5ETYU<br />

A one-and-half minute video by Tiffany<br />

& Co. focuses on promoting gifting<br />

during holidays.<br />

http://youtu.be/BacfKM3876g


Apart from these, with the intent of enhancing the ‘emotional connections’ with discerning mindsets, luxury brands<br />

have been exploring the digital space by engaging them in their activation programs. The objective is to generate a<br />

genuine affinity with the brand that transcends beyond the product, to an extent where, the consumers feel that<br />

they have found a soul mate.<br />

With the objective of strengthening the brand’s association to<br />

love and romance Tiffany & co. launched<br />

whatmakeslovetrue.com and iPhone app as a guide to those<br />

who want to take their romantic relationship forward. The<br />

website also showcases select true love stories of real people<br />

to give that personal touch.<br />

In line with its brand essence of ‘symbol of heroic<br />

achievement’, each year rolexawards.com showcases<br />

pioneering projects of real people that demonstrated<br />

innovative thought and betterment of human-kind. Thereby,<br />

establishing a personal affinity with their audience, beyond<br />

celebrity endorsement.<br />

Some of the luxury brands have also utilized the social media. The objective may not necessarily be, as deep as,<br />

engaging the audience in their storytelling, but it has been done largely to generate the desire or the lust for the<br />

brand or the product. It is also an effective tool to keep-up the contemporary-appeal and the newness-factor by<br />

having a continuous dialogue.<br />

Jimmy Choo organized a real-time treasure hunt around<br />

London via Foursquare to engage fans both online and off.<br />

PUBLIC FIGURES:<br />

Gucci has<br />

successfully kept<br />

their high numbers<br />

of Facebook fans<br />

engaged by<br />

continually updating<br />

their content,<br />

thereby sparking<br />

conversations in the<br />

form of ‘likes’ and<br />

‘comments’.<br />

Public-figure or celebrities have been traditionally employed as one of the marketing mix in luxury brand<br />

advertising and they still continue to garner attention, credibility and impact. Public figures can span from film-stars<br />

to music personalities, from sports personalities to royal families and even the designer themselves. But because<br />

celebrity endorsements are no longer exclusive to luxury space and extensively used (and abused) across mass<br />

categories, it take a different meaning when it comes to luxury brand endorsement.<br />

Not only does the public figure’s associated values and personality have to resonate with that of the luxury brand’s<br />

aura, but there’s a distinct difference in the way celebrity role is crafted, executed and strategically utilized. Beyond<br />

traditional advertising (largely print in selected media), less in-your-face advertising tools are employed like


accessorization or dressing celebrities for their walk down the red carpet, product placements within movies and<br />

television programs, invites to special events. This strategy attempts to remove the appearance of “selling” while<br />

still promoting the product by making it seem as a part of the celebrity’s lives, thereby positively affecting<br />

consumer’s attitudes, brand value & purchase intention.<br />

Chopard has been official partner of the<br />

Cannes Film Festival since last 14 years,<br />

showcasing and premiering their<br />

collection by accessorizing celebrities on<br />

the red carpet.<br />

The Lebanese singer and UNICEF goodwill<br />

ambassador Nancy Ajram was Cartier’s<br />

special guest at the Cartier International<br />

Dubai Polo Challenge held in Dubai, UAE<br />

in 2010.<br />

Omega have sponsored the James Bond<br />

franchise since 1995 – earlier with Pierce<br />

Brosnan and now with Daniel Craig<br />

Long-form-commercials / short-films have also utilized the celebrity-factor. Chanel for instance recently created 3minute<br />

short film with actress Keira Knightley who replaced Kate Moss in its ads for its Coco Mademoiselle<br />

fragrance. Other previous faces of Chanel have included French star Catherine Deneuve and Nicole Kidman, who<br />

represented Chanel No. 5.<br />

Similarly, as a part of their ‘core values’ campaign, Louis Vuitton used their website as the online medium to<br />

showcase their celebrity endorser’s journey, their story to bring to life how the brand has been promoting the art of<br />

travel and inspiring legendary journeys.<br />

The Coco Mademoiselle campaign with Keira Knightley<br />

http://youtu.be/TiO2o1NChAU<br />

PLACEMENT:<br />

The retail branded environment in luxury branding is all<br />

about heightening the consumer’s brand experience and<br />

amplifying the brand aura. Hence, the branded<br />

environment, the movement of truth, is where it must<br />

“live” the brand by orchestrating immaculate detailing<br />

that engages all senses of the discerning audience.<br />

Starting from the choice of store location, the chain of<br />

touch-points consumer interacts, the salesperson’s<br />

presentation and the impact of each touch-point is<br />

critical in creating a unique indulging experience.<br />

Angelina Jolie’s journey, her story (her journey to Cambodia) is<br />

one of the celebrity stories featured on Louis Vuitton website<br />

louisvuittonjourneys.com


That said, today’s evolving luxury consumers are increasingly seeking beyond the typical sophisticated, over-thetop,<br />

cosmetically elegant presentation or even the exclusive invites, privileged previews. With the increasing<br />

democratization of luxury brands and the rapid emergence of masstige brands – the luxury consumers have<br />

become more discriminating and demanding. They are seeking a more knowledgeable and professional assistance,<br />

a trusted and reliable collaboration helping them to manage their stature and lifestyle. Not only has this led to the<br />

new business offerings like Quintessentially (more below), but also luxury brands are increasingly investing in<br />

training and empowering their sales staff.<br />

Another important point to note within the placement factor is that it is not limited to the physical environment<br />

where the brand retails, but it extends to all the environments or consumer touch-points that the brand associates<br />

itself with. This spans from the extremely selective niche media where it advertises to the sports, the events, art,<br />

conversations that it places itself with.<br />

If luxury is about environment and aesthetics, then fashion<br />

magazines like Vogue, InStyle, Vanity Fair, Harper’s Bazaar,<br />

etc. provide that complementing environment and aesthetics<br />

for luxury brand to advertise in print media.<br />

Due to their origin in the writing culture, Montblanc supports<br />

and honors modern-day patrons of the arts through forums<br />

like De La Culture Arts Patronage, Young Artist World<br />

Patronage, Young Directors Project, the Montblanc Cultural<br />

foundation and the Unicef cooperation.<br />

E.g.: Quintessentially, a British company with 60 offices<br />

worldwide describe themselves as a ‘luxury lifestyle company’<br />

that provides concierge services to affluent and high net worth<br />

individuals. Their services include exclusive access to the hottest<br />

VIP-events, cultural happenings, once-in-a-life time experiences,<br />

top restaurants, clubs, spas and hotels, access to fine wines,<br />

private jets, luxury cars and yachts, party planners; art, education<br />

and investment consultants; travel and adventure specialists,<br />

bespoke gifting and styling services – and much more.<br />

http://youtu.be/0Pf2fJ5xcz0!<br />

Rolex associates itself with more than 150 events in golf, sailing,<br />

tennis, motor-sport, arts and at equestrian tournament vs.<br />

associating with sports like football / cricket that have more mass<br />

following.<br />

Italian carmaker Maserati placed its GranTurismo coupes in "a<br />

guerrilla-style-product-placement for the 2011 Limitless movie<br />

where the main character needed a ride to express luxury, style<br />

and performance.


PR (PUBLIC RELATIONS):<br />

PR in luxury branding plays an enormous role in image proliferation of the brand, thereby subtly influencing public<br />

opinion. It is also employed to convey other supporting messages and attributes of the brand which cannot be<br />

explicitly captured in advertising, but by no means are less important to create brand’s personality, mystique and<br />

emotional values – whether it’s via the pedigree factor or via public-figure any of the previous 7 P’s mentioned.<br />

It is also a sophisticated branding machine for maintaining ongoing relevance and dialogue with the luxury<br />

consumer, especially so in fashion, technology and seasonal trends driven categories. At a tactical level, PR is<br />

utilized to generate buzz & convey the brand news, point of views of inspirers and influencers (celebrity talk or the<br />

designer speak), a crucial support for brand activation (like the fashion weeks, sport-events, themed previews, etc.).<br />

PRICING:<br />

Pricing plays a quite a big role in the way consumers perceive luxury brands. Consciously or sub-consciously,<br />

consumers tend to generate a mental luxury stature or image with the price-range that the brand operates.<br />

Therefore, it is important for luxury brands to price thmeselves right – as setting the price lower than the consumer<br />

expectation and willingness to pay can potentially harm the brand value, whereas the reverse can potentially not<br />

given enough justification for consumers to go ahead and buy.<br />

The pricing strategy in luxury brands gained spotlight in the recent past not only because of the challenging<br />

economic environment, but because of more informed-and-exposed consumers who are more discriminating and<br />

demanding, for whom premium pricing without substance doesn’t imply luxury. A recent research by Unity<br />

<strong>Marketing</strong> suggests that affluent shoppers won’t spend ten-times more for something only three times better. The<br />

luxury-brands must, therefore, justify their price through the interplay of the 7P’s mentioned on top, thereby keepup<br />

and maintain a higher perceived value.<br />

The sales promotions also tend to be handled differently by luxury marketers. While few have resorted to sales and<br />

discounts, most others play it by adding more value to the purchase like gift with purchase, gift-certificates or<br />

rebates for the next purchase, multiple item discounts, online or email exclusives, more loyalty points, no shipping<br />

and handling charges by online retailers, etc. <strong>Luxury</strong> brands also use the channel of luxury retailers like Harvey<br />

Nichols, Saks 5 th Avenue who offer annual sales by offering them slightly lower prices.


Another way employed by luxury brands is by creating an extension into a secondary line with relatively lower price<br />

points like Giorgio Armani’s - Armani Exchange, Roberto Cavalli’s - Just Cavalli, Prada’s – Miu Miu, Alexander<br />

McQueen’s - McQ lines.<br />

KEY LEARNINGS & TAKEOUTS:<br />

In conclusion, the key to luxury brand marketing boils down to the following three points:<br />

� Product excellence by itself in not enough, the luxury brand must perform at an experiential level as well.<br />

As luxury consumers evolve, not only these act as points of differentiation, but also as ‘substance’ to justify<br />

a premium value and pricing.<br />

� While pedigree factor is important to exuberate the years of mastery or lineage, it is crucial to generate<br />

ongoing relevance and dynamism through the persona, PR & public-figure factor.<br />

� <strong>Luxury</strong> brands must continue to maintain a certain degree of exclusivity and stature with the paucity factor<br />

and the placement factor – from the retail experience to the touch-points it associates itself with.<br />

The 8 P’s of luxury brand marketing can provide a holistic framework to luxury marketers. The 8 P’s may not be a<br />

“universal methodology”, yet it presents a strong analytical “toolbox” to audit and leverage the brand potential.<br />

That said, a pragmatic approach must be underlined, as the situation and challenges would differ from brand-tobrand<br />

and market-to-market.<br />

Rohit Arora is Strategic Planning Director at Bates Pan Gulf (BPG Group) in Dubai, UAE.<br />

Within the luxury segment, he has worked on the strategic communication projects of<br />

De Beers, Ford-Lincoln, Al Tayer Group, Omega watches, luxury real-estate projects,<br />

luxury healthcare project, high-end consumer durables and banking designed solutions<br />

for the high-end consumers. with agencies that also include JWT and Y&R where he<br />

worked previously.<br />

<strong>Of</strong>ficial contact: rohit@batespangulf.com<br />

: https://twitter.com/#!/rohitsharing<br />

: http://ae.linkedin.com/pub/rohit-arora/6/293/104

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